Hydrangeas do not grow leaves. Why hydrangea does not bloom in the garden: what to do, how to care for the bush to bloom magnificently

Hydrangea, planting and care are of no small importance when growing, since an unsuccessfully chosen place and soil composition of the soil can lead to illness and poor development, in some cases death. In addition, after planting, you need to take care of the shrub correctly in order to achieve lush flowering and healthy growth ...

Site selection and soil preparation

When to plant hydrangea? The best time for planting is spring, the moment when the ground thaws, the buds have not yet blossomed, and autumn is in the month of September. When choosing a place for an ornamental deciduous plant, keep in mind that it is better to plant a hydrangea in the shade or partial shade, since the bright sun causes slower growth, as a result of which the inflorescences become smaller.

Some types of hydrangeas can be grown in open, sunny areas, but this requires abundant watering. It is advisable to protect young shrubs from the bright sun and strong winds. Not recommended to be placed under trees that strongly absorb water.

The soil for hydrangea should be well-drained and moistened, consist of a balanced mixture of humus, leafy soil, peat chips, river sand(2: 2: 1: 1). Regardless of the type and variety of hydrangea, remember that lime in the soil has a negative effect on development. The soil should have a Ph level of about 5.0.

Planting hydrangeas outdoors

In the northern regions of the country, it is preferable to plant hydrangea in open ground in the spring, in the southern regions, including the Kuban, the procedure is carried out in the fall. It is recommended to equip a planting hole for a beautiful shrub, the dimensions of which are 0.4 m in diameter and a depth of 0.4-0.5 m. When planting, be guided by the size of the root system, if too large, increase the volume of the hole. It is worth noting that the roots of the hydrangea are quite branched.

choosing a place and planting a hydrangea with a closed root system - in the photo

It is necessary to introduce the prepared soil mixture into the pit and make a small mound, on which the seedling is then carefully placed and the roots are straightened, they fall asleep without deepening the root collar, which should be flush with the soil. A slight deepening is permissible, but not more than 20-30 mm; too deep landing can subsequently lead to decay of the neck.

The soil in the near-trunk zone must be well tamped. Watering the hydrangea after planting is mandatory, it is necessary that the water seeps well to the depth of the roots of 30-40 cm. Watering is best done in the hole next to the plant.

Top dressing and mulching as the basis of care

To retain moisture after planting in a permanent place, the hydrangea is mulched in the trunk circle. Mulch also inhibits growth weed, and protects the roots from overheating. Peat chips, wood chips or bark are used as a mulching material, having a uniform layer of 8-10 cm.

Mulch will decompose over time and become part of the soil, slightly acidifying it. Mulch is best laid late spring, at a time when the ground has already warmed up well, but is still wet.

watering hydrangea - pictured

So that the shrub grows well and pleases with abundant flowering, the garden hydrangea is fed when planting, then in the spring in the third decade of May or in early summer - early June. Use mullein solution or chicken droppings diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. Do not forget to fertilize with a complex of mineral fertilizers or add at least the most basic components - 20 grams of superphosphate, 10 grams of potassium nitrate and urea each. Subsequent feeding of hydrangea is carried out with an interval of 17-20 days and ends at the end of July, so that the young shoots have time to woody by the winter period.

For strong and flexible shoots, an ornamental shrub is watered with a solution of weak potassium permanganate color pink... In addition, garden stores sell special fertilizers for hydrangeas, which include magnesium and iron, which the plant needs.

mulching hydrangea with wood chips - pictured

Panicle hydrangea, large-leaved and ground cover are predominantly pinkish, creamy colors that can be changed if desired. The color of the hydrangea is directly related to the acidity of the soil. If the soil is slightly alkaline, then the flowering will be pink and crimson; on acidic soils, hydrangea blooms with blue flowers.

To obtain blue flowers in alkaline soil, the shrub is watered with iron salt solutions. To get a more intense blue color, rusty metal cans should be buried under the hydrangea.

Pruning hydrangeas - continue to groom

Do I need to prune a hydrangea and how to do it? In order for the care to be correct, it must be remembered that pruning of hydrangea large-leaved, serrate, prickly, Sargent, liana-shaped, oak-leaved is carried out taking into account the fact that flowers appear on the shoots of the second year, which means that you need to cut off old branches and weak ones, up to strong buds.

Pruning hydrangea paniculate and tree-like involves removing old and faded shoots, also weak. At the same time, experienced gardeners do not recommend removing a large number of shoots at the same time, it is better to stretch the procedure for a year or two so that the plant does not lose strength and does not die from excessive cutting operations. The main branches, as a rule, are not touched, only those that are bad and grow inside the bush are cut off.

autumn pruning hydrangeas - pictured

You can prune hydrangeas in spring and autumn, but preferably in autumn, as sap flow slows down, and a haircut will promote lush flowering in spring. In the spring months, improper pruning can slow down growth and delay flowering. In addition, in the spring, the processes begin to actively start at the shrub, juice is released during pruning, so be careful not to harm the plant. In spring, pruning is best done as early as possible, before the buds swell and constant heat is established.

Pruning hydrangeas for the winter is carried out as usual, with only one difference - it is better not to touch young shrubs and let them overwinter without surgery, in otherwise you risk ruining the plant. Hydrangea, planting and caring for which is not at all difficult, will certainly delight with its lush flowering, if you suddenly decide to grow an unpretentious plant in your garden.

Gotense: related photos

We describe planting and caring for hydrangeas in spring and autumn (tree, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Consider the place, soil, planting rules and step by step instructions, as well as watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Ural, Siberia and southern regions).

Planting hydrangeas in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth

The plant is thermophilic, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and sufficient moisture.

We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrate, treelike, petiolate, Sargent and others.

Pick-up location

Hydrangea (all types) is a light-loving plant, it grows well in a sunny and open place, but bright sun and strong winds should be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is necessary, she very much loves diffused light.

At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light partial shade, in this case it later blooms with fewer flowers. It is very important to have sun rays in the morning, in the morning. Therefore, the east side is better suited than the west side.

Soil and acidity

Hydrangea grows well on fertile, humus-rich clay soils. It develops worse on red earth, and sandy soils are contraindicated.

The optimum acidity level is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and on neutral soil, slow development and pale color.

Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves). When the bush grows on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by light and pale color of the leaves.

Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron items (nails, a bank, a horseshoe).

When planting, prepare a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers.

Soil mix

Composition: humus, sod land, leafy soil and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil (black soil), peat and sand - 2: 2: 1: 1. And also nutrients: 20-25 grams (tablespoon + teaspoon) of carbamide (urea), 24-29 grams of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 grams of superphosphate (150-250 grams of bone meal).

If spruce and pine trees grow nearby, then under them you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without fertilizing when planting.

A complete ban is lime, chalk and wood ash.

Landing distance

Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate 140-240 cm between bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm. If you want to plant hydrangea in a row (hedge, "mixborder"), then you can dig a trench wide 90-110 cm.

If you want to achieve an earlier flowering, then when planting, dig holes closer to each other (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years, thin out the bushes if necessary.

Landing pit

Depth - 36-45, width - 51-65 cm. The roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.

Planting depth

The root collar should be at the level of the soil, a maximum of 2-3 cm lower, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.

Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas

Dig a hole to the correct size 15-30 days before planting.
Prepare potting mix and fill in the planting hole.
Dig a hole and place the seedling at the desired depth on the cone of the potting soil and spread the roots. Refill the hole gradually and compact the soil.
Water the bush with 8-12 liters of water and sprinkle with bark, sawdust or peat - 6-8 cm thick and 16-20 cm in diameter.
Protect the flower from direct sunlight during the day and strong winds.

When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or Autumn?

Best planting time: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period to plant hydrangea in cold climates is only spring, and in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.

Hydrangea care after planting

Preparing for flowering

For the first two years, cut the inflorescences at the bud stage (“pea”). And then the plant will direct all its forces to the development of the root system and the aboveground part, which will ensure better flowering in subsequent years.

Watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.

Hydrangea garden care: growing secrets

Flower care consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to add mulch to the trunk circle for more moisture retention. Spread sawdust, peat, pine needles or chips 7-8 cm in a layer, with a diameter of 24-30 cm.

Top dressing

When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you do not need to feed for the first two years. General rule dressing up to July acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate), and from July to October potassium-phosphorus ( bone flour, superphosphate).

The plant's nutrient requirements are high as it grows rapidly and blooms vigorously.

Complex food for growth. In the beginning - mid-May, feed with a complex mineral fertilizer - 25-35 grams per 10 liters of water. Or separately a tablespoon (15 grams) of urea + 25-30 grams of superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and a tablespoon (15 grams) of potassium sulfate.
Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic: infusion of mullein or bird droppings - 1:10. Repeat feeding after 13-16 days.
Potassium-phosphorus fertilizing for flowering. 12-16 days before flowering (beginning - mid-June) liquid feeding is carried out: dissolve 65-75 grams of superphosphate and 41-49 grams of potassium sulfate in water and pour over the bush.
During flowering. Repeat the previous dressing, at the time of massive flowering, to prolong it and ensure the establishment of new flower buds.

For feeding, it is not recommended to use wood ash... Fertilizers work well for heather and rhododendron species.
Avoid an excess of nitrogen, which leads to a decrease in winter hardiness, deterioration of flowering and promotes the development of rot. Use only in April - May.
Important! An overabundance of fertilizers, especially organic fertilizers (mullein, droppings) will do more harm than a lack.

Watering hydrangea

The flower is moisture-loving and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated, lack of sufficient moisture leads to developmental disruption.

In dry and hot weather, water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is 15-25 liters of water every 13-16 days, and if it is rainy summer, then 4-5 times per season.

The lack of moisture in the fall reduces the plant's winter hardiness, so if there is little rain in the fall, then additional watering is required.

Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. Soft water works best for watering.

It is better to water in the morning or evening in the trunk circle, when there is no scorching sun. After each watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.

Pruning hydrangeas correctly: spring and fall

All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in the spring can only be carried out from 3-4 years of age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens are divided into two groups according to the type of pruning.

Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oakleaf, Sargent and petiolate)

These species bloom on last year's shoots and need sanitary and cosmetic pruning. The optimal pruning time - as soon as the buds are a little swollen, there is no active movement of juices, plus such trimmed shoots can be rooted. Let's use an example garden hydrangea.

Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophile) cannot be cut off, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, prune every fourth branch over 3 years old, especially the one growing inward so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems at the root. Such pruning, in addition to giving a more decorative shape, improves flowering.

Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)

Exception: modern varieties from the series "Forever and ever", "You & Me", as well as varieties "MiniPenny", which bloom on the shoot of the first and previous years. They are pruned depending on the condition of the plant and the past wintering.

Petiolate hydrangea is poorly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.

Group No. 2 (tree and paniculate)

These species blooming on young shoots (current season) are pruned every year before bud break. The best moment: mid to late March (as soon as the snow melts). An annual formative pruning is required, as if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.

Treelike hydrangea wakes up first. Shoots are cut to 2-3 buds from the ground. On a powerful and mature bush, sometimes only one pair of buds is left. To form a decorative form of the bush, cut off the weak and growing inward shoots.
Panicle hydrangea needs more gentle pruning. Last year's shoots are shortened by a third.

Advice

To thin out the bush, remove the old, weak and growing inward shoots completely annually.
Cut off the frozen stems to the first living bud.

Bush rejuvenation

It is easy to rejuvenate an old bush with the help of special pruning: cut off all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from ground level ("under the stump") or to the level of perennial wood. Next spring, young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative effect of the bush will be restored.

Should I prune my hydrangea for the winter?

In the fall, the faded inflorescences are cut off at the hydrangea without fail, so that the branches do not break under the weight of the snow.

Stamp form

Paniculata hydrangea can be grown in the form of a tree - a low bole. Choose one of the most advanced shoot on a two-year-old plant grown from an apical cut, and cut off the rest. Then cut this shoot to the strongest bud every year in the spring, until it reaches 100 cm in height.

To form a crown in the following years, pinch the top of the shoot, and remove the new shoots completely. In the future, weak shoots are cut off annually and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.

An example of a standard form of hydrangea paniculata

Hydrangea care in the fall and preparation for winter

After flowering, care for hydrangea in the fall consists in removing faded inflorescences and preparing for winter.

Treelike hydrangea can not be covered for the winter, mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
In the conditions of the Middle Belt, Moscow Region, North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig up the large-leaved hydrangea, transplant it into pots and bring it into the house.
Since this species can be grown in areas where the temperature in winter is not lower than -23.5 ° C. The exception is some modern winter-hardy varieties mentioned in the "pruning" section.
In more southern and warmer areas, hilling and mulching can be dispensed with.

Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas

Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and damping.

Since the leaves and flowers of large-leaved hydrangea die from small frosts at night, preparations for winter begin in mid - late October (after the first frost).

Hydrangea garden paniculate and large-leaved must be covered for the winter.

To do this, they spud a bush with earth, and the trunk circle is mulched with rotted manure, needles or peat.
Then the stems are bent to the soil and covered with sawdust, spruce branches or dry leaves. And on top of the bush they put a box (box).
After graduation spring frosts(April) the winter shelter is dismantled and pruned.
It is better to carefully tie a large bush and make a frame shelter ("hut") above it by 8-12 cm and pour dry foliage inside it.

Preparing hydrangeas for winter Shelter hydrangea for the winter Top layer of winter shelter for hydrangea

In case of short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or a double layer of film.

Shelter of a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region

In the fall, before the arrival of night frosts, cut off all the leaves from the bush. If you leave them, the flower will start to rot. Leave only flower buds at the tips of the branches, with a maximum of two leaves protecting them.
Tie all branches on the bush, 3-4 pieces of approximately the same size, into separate bundles with elastic material (elastic, tights, strips of fabric).
Bend the bundles as low as possible to the soil and secure with metal staples (electrodes, thick wire). It is necessary to bend the hydrangea to the ground carefully so as not to damage the shoots. In some varieties, they become very woody and it is better to bend them down gradually, starting with a slight slope.
Before the cold weather begins (mid-November), cover the hydrangea with any non-woven material (burlap, agrofibre).
Before the onset of severe frosts, remove the cover and cover the flower with dry peat, compost or leafy soil. The base of the bush is less afraid of frost than the fragile tips of the shoots, so it is sprinkled quite a bit.
Place arcs over the plant and stretch the covering material again, and put a piece of film on top so that the ends remain open and there is no high humidity inside the winter shelter.

Shelter for the winter of a young hydrangea

Young seedlings are not cut off, but simply brought into the house in pots for the winter or covered with earth and additionally covered for the winter with an 11-16 cm layer of peat, dry foliage, needles or sawdust.

When can a hydrangea be opened after winter?

In the spring, you need to remove the winter shelter from the hydrangea at the right time to prevent the shoots from drying out.

In mid-March, remove the foil and covering material, scoop up the peat or soil, and cover again with burlap.
In early April, when the night frosts end and a stable heat sets in, remove the cover from the large-leaved hydrangea completely.

The approximate dates for the Moscow region are indicated.

Hydrangea winter hardiness

Now the large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in conditions middle lane Russia and the Moscow region, the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to the different microclimate.

The plant can withstand up to -23 ° C, and the tree hydrangea, paniculate and ground cover are considered the most winter-hardy.

The winter hardiness of a plant increases if it received a sufficient amount of water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus fertilization.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes it is still affected by powdery mildew, spider mites and aphids (more often in greenhouses).

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Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? What to do?

We will list the most common reasons for not blooming.

Deficiency or excess of nutrients, especially nitrogen. With excessive feeding, especially with organic fertilizers, flowering is very difficult to achieve. Apply nitrogen only during active vegetation (April - May).
Improper pruning or winterization. The plant blooms on last year's shoots (upper buds). They often suffer from winter chills and are sometimes removed if over-pruned. If you have a large-leaved hydrangea, then read how to properly prune it - the "Pruning" section.
Excessive direct sunlight. Diffused light is ideal for hydrangea, but if it grows in a sunny place without shading in the midday heat, then flowering worsens and shortens.

How to speed up hydrangea flowering?

To make the bush bloom faster, sprinkle it as soon as the inflorescences become 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg / liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more massive and decorative flowering.

How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?

The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil and the ability to accumulate aluminum.

Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g / 10 liters of water). To change the color, you need to water 3-4 times every 12-15 days. Therefore, watering begins 50-70 days before flowering.

After that, the white or pink flowers (slightly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to use them carefully. The price of 100 g of alum is about 30-50 rubles.

If you want to dry hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, then cut them off immediately after all the flowers bloom. Tie in small bunches and hang flowers down in a dark place to dry.
Hydrangea can be grown at home as pot culture... In the fall, it sheds its leaves, for the winter it is cut off and transferred to a cool place (+ 4-6), and in late February - early March, it is placed in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. In summer, the flower can be taken out into the open air and left until September.
Experts advise planting ground cover species in the near-trunk circle: stonecrops, bryophyte saxifrage and others.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

1. REPRODUCTION OF GARDEN HORTENSIA: ALL WAYS!

2. TYPES AND BEST VARIETIES OF HYDRENSE WITH PHOTOS AND TITLES!

We wish you flowers will cheer you up and make you a little happier!

The garden blooms with unusual colors in spring, and this continues until autumn. This hydrangea blooms for endless summer and delights in its appearance and scent. Planting a garden hydrangea and caring for it in the open field does not require special knowledge and costs, because it grows and reproduces well. And if you select varieties by color, size, combined with other plants, you will get a lot of pleasure for the whole summer. Hydrangea is recognized as the queen of the garden!

When to plant a hydrangea: mastering planting rules

When choosing this flower as a decoration for your backyard territory, you do not need complex and time-consuming pruning procedures, greenhouse wisdom. The most important thing is to choose the right place for planting, water abundantly and apply top dressing on time. Planting hydrangeas in open ground should be in a sunny and calm place. This flower does not like shaded places. Outdoor planting should take place in the month of May or September.

How to plant a hydrangea for a lush bush

At the planting site, hydrangeas dig a depression in the ground half a meter deep and about 60-70 cm in diameter.When planting and growing several bushes in the garden, a distance of about one and a half meters should be laid between them. The plant, if properly cared for, grows and takes up a decent area. Grooves fall asleep special composition, consisting of 1 part sand, 1 part peat, 2 parts soil, 2 parts humus. A fertilizer containing urea, potassium sulfide, superphosphate and humus is added.

It is important! You should not add lime to the mixture for feeding the roots of the flower - this will destroy the immature plant.

When planting a bush, you do not need to deeply deepen the root collar - it should be slightly below the surface level. The plant requires abundant watering.

Beginners are often interested in what year the bush blooms after planting. We answer: with competent landing and caring for hydrangea, it will bloom next year. But in the first season, it is recommended to pick the flowers so that the plant gains strength, grows and grows stronger for the next flowering.

How to care for hydrangea in the garden

This is an unpretentious plant to care for. The main activities are reduced to abundant watering, periodic loosening of the soil around the bush, weeding and fertilization on schedule. If, when planting, you mulch the bushes with sawdust or peat mixture, then you often do not have to water. Peat and sawdust retain moisture for a long time, which is sufficient for the development of a closed root system.

A perennial shrub requires proper pruning. Prune it before starting the growing season. Pruning hydrangeas in the garden is necessary to get rid of old shoots, leaving young and vigorous ones. Fresh shoots only need to be shortened to 4-5 buds. Remove wilted inflorescences periodically. Bushes planted on the site 5-7 years ago should be pruned to hemp, which will then give strength to new shoots.

How to plant a hydrangea: mastering feeding and fertilizing

Planting hydrangeas in fertilizer-rich soil will allow the first 2 years not to worry about fertilizing and feeding.

Then the rules for planting and caring for hydrangeas in the open field suggest the following:

in the middle of spring, phosphorus-potassium and nitrogen-containing fertilizers are required at the base of each bush;
feed with potassium sulfate and superphosphate for the second time in a season during the period of swelling of the buds;
over the summer, this honey plant is fed several more times with a solution of cow chicken manure.

It is important! Excess nitrogen in root feeding can affect the color change of inflorescences to a pale green hue.

About breeding methods

Along with other shrub perennial plants, this miracle bush reproduces vegetatively with the help of cuttings, dividing the rhizome, rooting cuttings and sowing seeds.

When propagating by cuttings in the middle of summer, young shoots not yet covered with bark are cut off and rooted in a special turf. The soil contains coarse sand and peat. It is advisable to add crushed mossy sphagnum to the soil for greater looseness and moisture retention. Cuttings are planted with a slight slope every 5-6 cm and strictly follow temperature regime(+ 17 + 20C) and humidity. After a month and a half, shoots with roots are planted in the selected planting site and provide all of the above care measures.

When dividing a bush, it is important that young shoots have 3-4 buds. The rhizome is carefully divided, and the shoots are planted in a place prepared in the garden.

Hydrangea propagates in the garden with the help of layering: young shoots from a common bush are pressed to the ground in a place where a hole has been dug in advance (up to 20 cm), and added dropwise. For a tighter connection, the elastic shoot is sometimes fixed with staples. To speed up the process of root formation, it is recommended to slightly cut the shoot in the area where it will be dug. New education needs abundant watering. As the roots develop, the connecting link is cut, and the young bush is planted in the place allotted to it.

About possible diseases and pests

The plant is resistant to diseases and pests. But it is also susceptible to infection. Downy mildew, chlorosis, the appearance of spider mites and leaf aphids are the most common ailments of the garden hydrangea.

Have the leaves lost their natural color, become lighter? This is chlorosis, which develops due to excess lime or humus in the ground. Add nitric acid potassium, copper sulfate to watering, and alternate these two solutions after two days on the third.

Downy mildew appears if the air humidity is high. Treating the leaves of the plant with copper sulfate with the addition of laundry soap will help get rid of the disease.

Garlic tincture is capable of overcoming the army of aphids. It is prepared as follows: garlic (200 gr.) Is chopped and infused in a bucket of water for 2 days, then laundry soap (40 gr.) Is added. This solution is sprayed on the bushes once a week until the pests are completely destroyed.

Varietal and species classification

The plant is rightfully considered the favorite of all the other suburban garden flowers. A long flowering period of 4 months until October, various shades and shapes of inflorescences create a wonderful image for this plant and make it desirable for owners. country houses, summer cottages, designers who successfully use the advantages of shrubs in creating landscapes.

The flowers are shaped like balls or tassels; the petals are white, lilac, red, pale pink and even two-colored. The most popular in the Moscow region, and throughout the country, is a tree-like form. This bush is unpretentious, easy to care for and reproduce, it is recommended for breeding even for beginners. Up to 30 varieties of this flower are known. But most popular with owners land plots varieties are considered:

"Anabel" is a lush bush with a height of up to 1.5 m. Its snow-white spherical inflorescences bloom from the beginning of summer and bloom until September. Stays green until winter. Adapted to the conditions of our winters, does not require insulation.
"Grandiflora" has large snow-white flowers, flowering period from June to October.
"Sterilis" with its hemispheres of pale green and white from mid-summer to October, it can not fail to delight homeowners with a lush color and aroma.

BellaAnna is a novelty among other varieties. The flowers are in the form of balls, hydrangea bushes in the garden grow up to 3 m in diameter. It happens with pale pink flowers and crimson, the flowering period is until October.

"InvincibelSpirit" is attractive with a delicate pinkish shade of petals.

Paniculate and tree hydrangeas are very popular. Their flowers are of an original shape, bloom for a long period, and can change color. The plant is frost-hardy and can withstand even the harshest winters in the north of the country. These include varieties:

"Vanilla Freise", which has delicate white-pinkish petals;
"Limelight" blooms only in autumn, flowers are large, delicate lemon shade;
PinkyWinky is attractive with pale red petals.

Hydrangea in landscape design projects

Excellent compositions are constructed by contemporary designers using various shapes and colors. Taking into account the climatic conditions of the territory of Russia, professionals advise choosing tree-like, paniculate and petiolate hydrangea varieties for planting.

Experts advise against using flowers in compositions with yellowish, red, orange hues. Successfully highlight the advantages of the bushes of plants blooming in a pale blue color, conifers, leaves, cereal family, juniper, clematis.

This plant is deservedly recognized as the basis of a beautiful garden. With good care and cultivation, hydrangeas will be a delight to the eyes for years to come.

Planting garden hydrangeas and care have their own characteristics. To admire the beautiful and lush flowering, we will learn how to properly care for this plant.

Garden hydrangea - species and varieties

There are many types and varieties of this ornamental shrub. Most of them prefer to grow in partial shade, but there are some that do well in sunny areas. The height of the bushes and the flowering period are very different and depend on the variety.

The most common types:

Large-leaved. It blooms in the second half of summer with lush inflorescences in the form of balls. Flowers can have different shades. Height - 2 m. Requires shelter in winter, maximum tolerates temperatures up to - 10 ° C
Pereshkovaya. Variety of creepers. It blooms with white-pink inflorescences. Requires support, otherwise it will creep along the ground. A good option for arbors and arches.
Tree-like. The flowers are snow-white. Height - up to 3 m. Looks very impressive, but freezes in winter. The plus is that the plant recovers quickly. Requires strong spring pruning.
Paniculata. It blooms from July to late autumn with dense panicles 30 cm long. The shade of the inflorescences varies from white to greenish. The height of the bush is 3-4 m. An unpretentious and frost-resistant variety.

On the basis of these species, many different varieties have been created, each of which is beautiful in its own way. Depending on the type, hydrangeas can be deciduous or evergreen, but in our area they are most often grown in the first version.

Growing features

Interestingly, the shade of the inflorescences can be adjusted independently by adding certain fertilizers to the soil. On neutral soil, the flowers will have a beige or cream shade. A soil with a high alkali content gives flowers a pink or lilac color, acids - a blue one.

Bright illumination is very important for the shrub, but the scorching rays of the sun are destructive for it, as well as deep shadow. Therefore, it is best to plant a flower where there is shade at lunchtime, and the rest of the time - the sun.

It is important not to overfeed the seedlings with organic matter. They will build up green mass, but are unlikely to bloom.

Landing in open ground

Hydrangea is a demanding flower. Therefore, before landing, you need to think carefully about all the nuances.

Site and soil preparation

The landing site must be prepared in advance - about 2 weeks in advance. The soil should be acidic and well moisturized. The acidity can be adjusted independently with the help of special preparations. Depending on the variety, the flowers can grow in partial shade or in the sun. The best place for planting - light partial shade, in a strong shade the plants will not bloom.

The hole should be small: 40 cm deep and 40 cm wide. If a group planting is planned, then the distance between the bushes should be at least 90-100 cm. Sand and fertilizers are added to the pit, mixing well with the ground. Pour some peat into the next layer.

How and when to plant?

Landing is carried out in early spring or in the fall. It depends on the climate of each region. In colder areas, it is better to plant the bushes in the spring so that they can give new roots, get stronger and be able to survive the harsh winter. In warmer regions, planting can be done in the fall. If planting is done in spring, then annual shoots should be shortened by at least 3 buds.

It is advisable to shorten the roots of the seedling a little. When planting, you need to make sure that the root collar is not covered with earth. The planted bush is abundantly watered and mulched with peat. When watering, care must be taken that a strong jet of water does not erode the soil near the roots.

As soon as new leaves appear on the plant, this indicates that the process of the formation of new roots is in full swing.

Phantom hydrangea care

Hydrangea Phantom is one of the most beautiful of the paniculata family. It blooms magnificently throughout the season with long panicles and exudes a pleasant aroma. The variety is resistant to root diseases and frost, quickly recovers after freezing. The bush can grow in one place for many years without requiring a transplant.

Watering and feeding

“Hydrangea” in translation from Latin means “yearning for water”. The flower is very hygrophilous, therefore, in no case should the soil dry out. Watering should be regular and abundant. Once upper layer the soil will dry out a little, the plant needs to be watered again. If the ground around the bush is mulched with peat, you can water less often, since the soil does not dry out so quickly. In the first years, 7-8 liters of water are poured under each seedling, in subsequent years - at least 18 liters.

Watering is the best time to feed. In early spring, the plant needs nitrogen fertilization, during the budding period - in potassium and phosphorus.

It is useful to water the bushes with acidified water once every 2 weeks. For 10 liters of water, you need to take 1 tbsp. l. citric acid... The solution is poured directly under the roots. In addition, in the spring-summer period, once every 3-4 weeks, you need to loosen the ground in order to improve aeration.

How to transplant and prune?

The plant tolerates pruning well. If you do not cut it, the bush will lose its decorative effect, and the flowering will be weak. It is best to do this procedure in the spring when the buds are swollen. If the bushes are too old, they can be easily renewed by cutting them almost to the root.

All types of hydrangeas can be divided into two groups:

To the first category includes those species and varieties, the flowers of which are formed on the shoots of the last year (petiole, prickly, large-leaved, serrate). They do not need special pruning, it is enough to remove old, dried and improperly growing branches.
To the second category includes species that form flowers on the shoots of the current year (paniculate and tree-like). These bushes require strong pruning, all shoots should be shortened in early spring to 2-3 pairs of buds.

When the hydrangea is going to bloom for the first time, you need to immediately cut off all the buds so that the plant gains strength and can bloom profusely next year. Formative pruning of the bush within 5 years will produce a beautiful little tree.

It is necessary to transplant Phantom hydrangea only in extreme cases. It grows well in the same place for years. Therefore, transplanting is justified if an adult bush needs to be divided into parts and planted in other places.

Flower care in autumn

Hydrangea care garden autumn consists in pruning the inflorescences, while removing at least 3 buds from the top of the shoot. This must be done so that the sudden falling wet snow does not freeze on them and break fragile branches. The base of the bushes must be huddled high, and the ground around them must be well mulched. This will protect the surface root system from frost.

How does hydrangea winter?

In the middle lane, the shrub tolerates winter well. But for a safety net, it is still better to cover it with spruce branches. In the northern regions, the flower is removed for the winter in a room with a positive temperature, since very coldy can destroy him.

Sometimes the bushes are neatly tied, wrapped in spunbond and a mesh frame is erected near them. The space between the covering material and the mesh is filled with dry foliage. With the first breeze of heat, the leaves are removed, but the spunbond is removed only after a constant positive temperature is established.

How does garden hydrangea reproduce?

The easiest way to propagate a hydrangea is cuttings. They are cut in the spring from annual green shoots. It is necessary to cut at right angles. The length of the cuttings is no more than 12 cm. The leaves are removed from the lower part, treated with preparations to stimulate growth and planted in a greenhouse or boxes.

A good option is to multiply the flower by dividing it. This can be done both in spring and autumn. The bush is carefully dug up and divided into 3-4 parts, so that each has several renewal buds. The workpieces are planted in pre-marked places.

Also without special efforts you can propagate the hydrangea by layering. Young shoots are gently bent to the ground, fixed and buried in the ground, leaving the top (about 20 cm). As early as the next spring or autumn, the root cuttings can be separated from the mother plant and transplanted.

Sometimes the shrub is propagated by seeds or grafting, but these are too laborious methods. Knowing how the garden hydrangea reproduces, you can choose the appropriate method in advance and do it in a timely manner.

Protection against diseases and pests

Hydrangeas rarely get sick, while the lion's share of the disease is transferred with seedlings. For this reason, you only need to buy new plants from proven nurseries. Other causes of diseases are called thickening of plantings, lack of nutrients and high humidity.

Many fungal diseases can be fought with copper oxychloride.

One of the most common diseases is chlorosis. Due to a lack of iron, the leaves turn yellow, while the veins remain green. For treatment, drugs Agricol, Brexil are used. As a preventive measure, plants need to be fed with iron-containing fertilizers in a timely manner.

Use in landscape design

Hydrangea looks great both in single plantings and in group. You just need to design in advance its location at a decent distance from other plants. Over time, the bushes grow strongly and require a lot of space.

The flower can be planted as a soloist in the front garden if it is located on the north side of the house. When choosing hydrangea companions in a mixborder, you need to take into account their characteristics. Similar requirements for moisture, lighting and soil acidity in astilba, hosts, cuffs. If the site is large, you can plant a composition of several bushes. Their sprawling shape will create an expressive accent in the garden. These shrubs are often used to restrict areas of the garden.

Hydrangeas work well for different styles garden design, so they can be grown by everyone.

How to grow hydrangea in the garden

Hydrangea (Latin Hydrangea) belongs to the Hortensia family, and has more than 70 species. It is appreciated for its variety of colors and unpretentiousness and many ways of self-breeding.

Hydrangea breeding methods

There are several ways to breed hydrangeas: green cuttings, layering, dividing the bush. The seed method is less commonly used, since the cultivation of a seedling takes about 2 years.

Propagation of hydrangea by green cuttings

Cuttings are cut in July, when the buds are formed:

choose the lower lateral last year's shoots;
cut the rod in the morning;
then the shoot is divided into parts, leaving 2-3 pairs of leaves on each;
the finished cuttings are placed in a solution of a root growth stimulator for a couple of hours;
then they are planted in peat soil, and covered with glass jars.

The cuttings should be watered regularly. In a month, new leaves will appear on them.

Propagation of hydrangea by layering

Layering is recommended in the spring, before bud break. The soil around the bush is dug up and leveled, furrows are formed into which the lower lateral shoots are laid. They are pinned to the ground, and sprinkled with new ones. By October, the cuttings will form roots and start young shoots - then they can be separated.

Dividing a hydrangea bush

The method is not applicable for panicle hydrangea. In early spring, the bush is well watered, dug out, and washed off the soil from the roots. Then it is divided into several parts, and immediately planted in a new permanent place.

Seed breeding method

Growing from seeds begins in the fall:

garden soil, peat and sand 4: 2: 1 are used as a substrate;
sowing is covered with a thin layer of soil mixture, moistened, and covered with glass;
the planting is regularly aired and irrigated;
the first shoots appear in 4-6 weeks;
at the stage of development of the first leaves, the first pick is carried out;
in May, a second pick is carried out, planting the plants in individual containers with a diameter of at least 7 cm.

During the summer, young sprouts are hardened on fresh air, but without drafts and direct sunlight. So the seedlings are grown for 2 years, regularly removing the buds - this will preserve the strength of the young sprout. V winter time flower seedlings are kept in a bright cool place.

Growing hydrangeas in the garden

You can start planting in early spring, when the soil warms up enough. Depending on the climate, this period may occur in late April - early May, and in the northern regions, it is recommended to plant seedlings in the autumn in September.

Choosing a place to grow hydrangeas

The culture loves moisture and sunlight. It is good if groundwater is located close to the soil surface. Nutritious clay soil is ideal for growing, unlike sandy soil.

The best neighbors for a sprawling flower garden are shrubs and trees. The lower tier can be filled with hosta and fern.

Having chosen a place, you can start preparing the soil, oxidizing or deoxidizing it to the required level, and adding the necessary minerals. This is done to change the color of the hydrangea buds to match the overall garden design.

Preparing the soil for hydrangea

The most main feature plants in that the inflorescences can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil:

the plant may have white and beige flowers- if the soil has a neutral pH level;
lilac and pink inflorescences are characteristic of alkaline soil;
blue and blue for sour.

The brightness of blue shades depends on the level of iron in the soil, the more it is, the more saturated blue flowers will be. To enhance the shade, the soil under the bush is watered with solutions of iron salts, and sprinkled with metal shavings.

In alkaline soil, iron is not absorbed by plants, so the flowering becomes tender pink tones... White inflorescences practically do not change their color.

Planting hydrangea seedlings

The seedlings are placed in the soil along with an earthen lump, respectively, the size of the hole should be 2 times larger than it. A mixture of peat and soil with the addition of minerals and organic matter is introduced into the depression.

The roots of the seedling are slightly straightened and planted so that the upper part of the root system is just above ground level. Then the planting is sprinkled with soil, watered and mulched with bark.

How to care for hydrangea in the garden

The soil under the hydrangea bush should always be moist. In roast summer time irrigation must be carried out twice a week with warm, settled water in a volume of 30-40 liters under an adult bush.

Using mulch will retain moisture longer, so you can reduce the frequency of watering. The superficial root system needs oxygen, so in the spring and summer, the soil should be loosened several times to a depth of 5 cm.

Fertilizing under hydrangeas

before flowering: 20 g of urea per bucket of water, the consumption rate is 3 buckets per adult plant;
after flowering: feeding with a complex mineral composition.

During the summer, it is good to fertilize the soil with organic matter. It is important not to overdo it as plants can activate uncontrolled growth.

Pruning different types of hydrangeas

Plants that have reached 3-4 years of age are subject to pruning. The procedure is carried out in the spring before the start of active sap flow.

Treelike varieties are pruned earlier than others: the shoots are shortened at a height of 3-4 buds. The cut off leftovers can be used as cuttings.

In panicle hydrangeas, only last year's shoots are cut, shortening them by a third. Plant residues are used for reproduction.

Large-leaved subspecies slightly rejuvenate and thin out: every 4th shoot is cut out to avoid thickening. Sick, broken and growing processes inside the bush are removed.

Diseases and pests of hydrangea

Growing hydrangeas in the garden is rarely accompanied by disease. Mostly they are associated with improper care, or depleted soil.

Hydrangea diseases

Chlorosis of hydrangeas - occurs when there is a lack of iron in the soil. The leaves turn yellow, the buds become smaller. With chlorosis, the bushes should be watered with soft rainwater, and fed with iron-containing preparations.

White rot is a fungal disease that causes the plant to rot, leaves and shoots turn brown and become covered with a white bloom, similar to cotton wool.

When infected with septoria, brown spots of a rounded shape are formed on the leaves, which gradually merge. The affected leaf dies off.

For fungal diseases, plants are treated with Fitosporin or copper sulfate.

Ring spot: a viral disease. Black spots of necrosis in the form of rings appear on the leaves. There is no cure for viral hydrangea diseases.

Hydrangea pests

The most common pests of hydrangea:

grape snail and amber;
spider mite;
rootworm nematode.

Insects feed on the leaves, buds and roots of plants. To combat them, insecticides and acaricides are applicable: Typhos, Lightning, Vermitic. Snails and their clutches are destroyed mechanically.

Prevention of diseases and pests of hydrangea

compliance with the rules of care;
acquisition of quality planting material;
timely removal of dried and diseased plants;
weed control;
processing in the spring with 1% Bordeaux mixture.

Preparing and sheltering hydrangeas for the winter

The culture has a superficial root system that is prone to freezing. In the fall, it is necessary to prepare a flower garden for wintering. The bushes should be huddled high and well mulched.

In October, you need to take care of winter shelter... Young bushes are bent to the ground, and covered with roofing material, pressing the edges of the sheet with stones or bricks.

Adult bushes are tied and wrapped in spunbond. Around them, mesh frames are built in the form of cones. The space between the net and the shelter is filled with dry leaves.

Outcome

It is very easy to grow a hydrangea in your garden. An unpretentious culture develops well on different soils, has a high winter hardiness, and is a little sick. A unique feature of the plant - to change the color of the inflorescences depending on the acidity of the soil, allows you to use it in any garden design.

In personal plots, hydrangeas are popular garden crops that are intended as garden decoration for decades. The culture is unpretentious, but in some cases gardeners are faced with a problem: hydrangea grows and develops poorly. Most of the growth slowdown is observed after winter. You should wait for the onset of stable warm weather. If nothing happens and the flowers wither, do not grow, you should find out the reasons and take measures in time.

Reasons why hydrangea grows poorly

Growth is influenced by many factors. The root system is an indicator of intensive growth and flowering, therefore, its condition and unfavourable conditions are reflected in appearance bush.

Reference! Large-leaved varieties may not flower for several years because the plant is too young or the conditions for growth do not meet generally accepted standards.

There may be several reasons:

the plant overwintered badly;
kidney damage during spring frosts;
climatic conditions are not suitable for the variety;
the level of soil acidity is lowered;
drying out of the earth;
lack of oxygen;
lack of fertilizers;
diseases;
incorrect pruning;
damage to the root system.

Finding out why hydrangea grows poorly is better in spring, in the active phase of growth.

Root system recovery

First of all, it is necessary to determine the condition of the roots. The root system can be damaged:

frost;
pests;
infectious and fungal diseases.

Reference! In winter, weak roots in the absence additional insulation can die off. If the lesion is local, the plant can be restored by providing a full range of fertilizers and good care.

If the flower is in a pot, it is worth checking the condition by pulling out the plant along with a clod of earth. If the lesions are minor, the damaged areas are removed, the root system is washed running water and disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate or any special compound. The soil mixture is completely changed, top dressing is carried out.

What if hydrangea does not grow outdoors? The state of the root system must be checked. To do this, carefully remove the top earthen layer and check the roots for damage. If there are no visible changes, a nutritious soil mixture is added, fertilizers are added. If necessary, the bush is carefully dug out with a lump of earth and transplanted to another place.

Diseases

Hydrangea affected by diseases does not grow. This can be determined by external signs.

Chlorosis- a common disease among all varieties of horticultural crops. The leaves change color to a lighter color, while the veins remain dark green. Leaves become smaller, buds form small, deform and fall off. Plants cannot assimilate useful material due to impaired metabolism. Usually the problem occurs if the flower has been growing in one place for many years. For treatment and prevention use "Antichlorosis", "Ferovit", "Agricola". Effectively use compositions prepared with your own hands: a solution of 1 liter of water, 4 g of citric acid and 2 g ferrous sulfate... For large planting areas, prepare the following composition: 10 liters of water and 40 g of potassium nitrate.
Gray rot characterized by tissue damage. They become watery. Fungal disease appears during lingering rains. Damaged areas must be removed, removed off-site and burned. Treat with "Fundazol".
Peronosporosis occurs when the air temperature is high and the air is humid. Greasy spots on foliage darken over time. The treatment is carried out with a composition of 10 liters of water, 15-20 g copper sulfate and 150 g liquid soap(or a solution of laundry soap).
Powdery mildew manifests itself in the form of yellow and green spots, gray bloom on inside sheet. Young shoots, deforming, die. The bush is slowly withering away. To combat the disease, it is effective to use fungicides: "Topaz", "Fitosporin-B", "Skor".
Septoria visible on brown spots on the foliage. Plants are treated with copper sulfate.
Ring spot - a viral disease that affects shrubs in a short time. It is impossible to stop necrotic processes. The shrub is removed along with a clod of earth and destroyed.

It is necessary to periodically carefully inspect the plantings in order to determine the reason why the hydrangea does not grow. Diseases in the early stages are easily eliminated.

Pests

The threat is often carried by pests, among the most common:

spider mite;
slugs and snails;
rootworm nematodes.

If the first signs appear: wilting, yellowing and falling foliage, deformation of sprouts, flowers and inflorescences, drying out, urgent action is needed. Spraying is carried out using self-prepared solutions:

10 liters of water, 20 g of anabazine sulfate, 7 g of thiophos;
10 liters of water, 200-250 g of chopped garlic, 50 g of liquid soap (leave for two days).

Advice! Snails and slugs are traditionally removed by hand or insecticides are used: Decis, Confidor, Calypso.

Top dressing

One of the reasons hydrangea grows slowly is due to a lack of nutrients. Mineral and organic fertilizers help flowering crops fully grow, develop and bloom. Among the complex formulations, the most effective ones should be highlighted: "Fertika", "Pokon", "GreenWorld". Their use simplifies maintenance, just follow the instructions on the package.

At home, you can make do-it-yourself formulations for feeding at the rate of 10 liters of water:

50-60 g of ammonium sulfate, 15-20 g of potassium sulfate;
20-25 g superphosphate;
40-50 g of potassium sulfate, 50-60 g of superphosphate.

It is necessary to periodically alternate mineral fertilizing with organic: mullein, infusion of green mass, liquid Biohumus.

Advice! Before the onset of frost, it is recommended to add 5-8 kg of humus under each bush. This will help warm the root system in severe frosts and, with the onset of heat, will serve as an excellent nitrogen fertilization.

It is important not to overdo your fertilization. Excessive feeding can provoke disease and oppression of plants.

Preventive actions to accelerate the growth of hydrangeas

If the horticultural crop is growing slowly, the quality of the soil should be checked. Dry and too dense ground is one of the reasons for the lack of growth. Abundant watering and loosening normalizes the situation for short term... For preventive purposes, they are treated with Bordeaux liquid in the spring. To prevent damage by diseases and pests, traditional methods or chemicals are used.

Advice! To acidify the soil, use a solution of 10 liters of water and 2 tbsp. l oxalic acid.

Young seedlings grow poorly after improper pruning. It is also necessary to take into account the characteristics of the varieties. So, for example, new flower buds are laid at the ends of last year's shoots from shrubs of the first group: hydrangea, serrate, prickly, etc. The manipulation is carried out carefully, since radical pruning will suspend the growth process and postpone the flowering period to the next year.

Poor weather conditions also negatively affect the intensity of development, the height of the shrub. When choosing a variety, it is necessary to take into account the climatic characteristics of the variety.

As they grow older, the culture may stop developing with insufficient lighting or drafts, excessive gas pollution. It is necessary to determine a place in the garden with little shade. Be sure to check the condition of the branches, remove damaged and dry ones.

Planting garden hydrangeas and care have their own characteristics. To admire the beautiful and lush flowering, we will learn how to properly care for this plant.

The most common types:

Large-leaved. It blooms in the second half of summer with lush inflorescences in the form of balls. Flowers can have different shades. Height - 2 m. Requires shelter in winter, maximum tolerates temperatures up to - 10 ° C
Pereshkovaya. Variety of creepers. It blooms with white-pink inflorescences. Requires support, otherwise it will creep along the ground. A good option for arbors and arches.
Tree-like. The flowers are snow-white. Height - up to 3 m. Looks very impressive, but freezes in winter. The plus is that the plant recovers quickly. Requires strong spring pruning.
Paniculata. It blooms from July to late autumn with dense panicles 30 cm long. The shade of the inflorescences varies from white to greenish. The height of the bush is 3-4 m. An unpretentious and frost-resistant variety.

Growing features

It is important not to overfeed the seedlings with organic matter. They will build up green mass, but are unlikely to bloom.

Landing in open ground

Hydrangea is a demanding flower. Therefore, before landing, you need to think carefully about all the nuances.

Site and soil preparation

The landing site must be prepared in advance - about 2 weeks in advance. The soil should be acidic and well moisturized. The acidity can be adjusted independently with the help of special preparations. Depending on the variety, the flowers can grow in partial shade or in the sun. The best place for planting is light partial shade; in a strong shade, the plants will not bloom.

How and when to plant?

Planting is done in early spring or autumn. It depends on the climate of each region. In colder areas, it is better to plant the bushes in the spring so that they can give new roots, get stronger and be able to survive the harsh winter. In warmer regions, planting can be done in the fall. If planting is done in spring, then annual shoots should be shortened by at least 3 buds.

As soon as new leaves appear on the plant, this indicates that the process of the formation of new roots is in full swing.

Phantom hydrangea care

Watering and feeding

“Hydrangea” in translation from Latin means “yearning for water”. The flower is very hygrophilous, therefore, in no case should the soil dry out. Watering should be regular and abundant. As soon as the topsoil dries up a little, the plant needs to be watered again. If the ground around the bush is mulched with peat, you can water less often, since the soil does not dry out so quickly. In the first years, 7-8 liters of water are poured under each seedling, in subsequent years - at least 18 liters.

Watering is the best time to feed. In early spring, the plant needs nitrogen fertilization, during the budding period - in potassium and phosphorus.

It is useful to water the bushes with acidified water once every 2 weeks. For 10 liters of water, you need to take 1 tbsp. l. citric acid. The solution is poured directly under the roots. In addition, in the spring-summer period, once every 3-4 weeks, you need to loosen the ground in order to improve aeration.

How to transplant and prune?

All types of hydrangeas can be divided into two groups:

To the first category includes those species and varieties, the flowers of which are formed on the shoots of the last year (petiole, prickly, large-leaved, serrate). They do not need special pruning, it is enough to remove old, dried and improperly growing branches.
To the second category includes species that form flowers on the shoots of the current year (paniculate and tree-like). These bushes require strong pruning, all shoots should be shortened in early spring to 2-3 pairs of buds.

Flower care in autumn

Garden hydrangea care in autumn consists in pruning the inflorescences, while removing at least 3 buds from the top of the shoot. This must be done so that the sudden falling wet snow does not freeze on them and break fragile branches. The base of the bushes must be huddled high, and the ground around them must be well mulched. This will protect the superficial root system from frost.

How does hydrangea winter?

In the middle lane, the shrub tolerates winter well. But for a safety net, it is still better to cover it with spruce branches. In the northern regions, the flower is taken to a room with a positive temperature for the winter, since severe frosts can destroy it.

How does garden hydrangea reproduce?

Also, without much effort, you can propagate the hydrangea by layering. Young shoots are gently bent to the ground, fixed and buried in the ground, leaving the top (about 20 cm). As early as the next spring or autumn, the root cuttings can be separated from the mother plant and transplanted.

Many fungal diseases can be fought with copper oxychloride.

Use in landscape design

Hydrangeas work well with a variety of garden styles, so they can be grown by anyone.

It is worth recognizing that hydrangea is one of the most beautiful and long-flowering perennials, which comes in the form of a shrub or a small tree. Depending on the variety, it has very beautiful inflorescences of various shapes, and can also change color during its flowering.

But it often happens that the hydrangea stops blooming or the flowering becomes not so abundant and bright. Why this is happening, and what needs to be done so that the hydrangea begins to bloom again magnificently and brightly - this will be discussed below.

Why hydrangea does not bloom: reasons and what to do, how to properly care for it to make it bloom

Most often, hydrangea does not bloom due to the fact that it was originally planted incorrectly or grooming not according to the rules: they do not feed on time, often violate the irrigation regime, pruning is carried out incorrectly, they forget or incorrectly cover for the winter. Sometimes pests attack this flowering shrub or it is affected by fungal diseases. As a result, the perennial weakens and blooms poorly or stops flowering altogether.

To with hydrangeas on garden plot this did not happen, you need to remember the main agrotechnical measures, on the accuracy of compliance with which the abundant flowering of these shrubs depends.

The time has not come

The main mistake of many novice flower growers is as follows - they expect hydrangea to bloom almost immediately after planting seedlings in open ground. But you need to understand that these flowering shrubs.. during the season they will only take root and grow roots. By autumn, most varieties will only have flower buds that will bloom only in the next season after planting. If there were seedlings, then they can bloom next year.

Therefore, you should not panic if, after planting, your hydrangea does not begin to bloom - it just has not yet come for this. It is also possible that the flowering period will move another season or two if the planting or care conditions are not met.

Worth knowing! Most often, hydrangea begins to bloom only at 3 or 4 years old, and from 5 years old - abundantly. Therefore, as a rule, 3-4-year-old seedlings are sold.

Planting not according to the rules: wrong choice of place, soil or wrong planting of a seedling

The place for planting these flowering perennials should be sufficiently well lit in the morning or evening hours, but not in bright afternoons. sunbeams that can burn the delicate foliage of hydrangeas. Very light partial shade is also suitable for these shrubs.

In general, it is believed that treelike and paniculate Hydrangeas bloom best when there is morning or evening sun, so they are best planted in light shade. In addition, in a too open space, the shrub will fade very quickly, and it will have to be watered more often, because hydrangeas, in principle, are moisture-loving.

Important! The more sun, the better the flowering, but if there is too much sun, the flowering will be short-lived. Accordingly, in the shade, the plant will bloom longer, but not abundantly, so you need to find the optimal balance.

Another thing, large-leaved hydrangea... This is truly a partial shade plant, in such conditions it will bloom very well.

It is worth understanding! Despite the fact that hydrangea is considered a shade plant, it will bloom profusely only if good lighting in the morning (before lunchtime) or in the evening (from 5-6 hours until sunset).

It is equally important that the area where hydrangeas are grown is well protected from east and north winds that can simply break all your beautiful flowers.

Advice! The ideal place in the garden for planting hydrangeas would be an area near a fence or garden house.

But it is not worth planting under trees, since they will create a shadow (sometimes excessive), and also take most of the necessary moisture, therefore, the plant will not receive the required nutrition and will not bloom.

Hydrangea does not bloom well in the shade

Hydrangea is also demanding on the composition of the soil, namely, on the degree of its acidity (required 4.5-5 pH). Although most varieties grow well on slightly acidic or neutral soils (for example, tree hydrangea), but here in alkaline soils, these perennials begin to hurt, do not bloom and die as a result.

Therefore, it is imperative properly prepare the landing pit for planting hydrangeas, or rather to do acidic substrate to fill it (holes). For this, sour horse (or brown) peat, rotted sawdust is suitable. coniferous trees, coniferous litter or pine bark (you can collect all this in the forest).

Important! In no case in the substrate can not be added dolomite flour, lime or wood ash(for example, as a potash fertilizer), because all these are deoxidizers (reduce acidity), but we need, on the contrary, acidifiers (increase).

Optimal size planting pit for young and small 1-2 year old hydrangea seedlings - 30 by 30 cm, for older and large 3-4 year olds - 50 by 50 cm.

Note! Learn more about when (terms) and how to properly plant hydrangeas in your garden, you can from the following articles and.

Difficulties in adaptation: the shrub does not take root in any way

Often, after planting purchased hydrangea seedlings to a permanent place in the open field, they adapt for a long time in a new area or even begin to hurt, which means that there can be no talk of any flowering. The main reasons may be as follows:

Previous owners (if they gave it to you or bought it at the garden center) added to the soil too much fertilizer so that the plant grows faster. And in a new place you filled the landing pit with fairly poor soil(they forgot to add phosphorus-potassium fertilizers), so the hydrangea does not grow in any way and, accordingly, does not bloom.

Advice! In order to fill the planting pit, 30 grams of potassium fertilizer (for example, potassium sulfate) and 60 grams of phosphorus (superphosphate) must be added to the substrate.

The same happens if you transplant hydrangea from initially acidic soil to slightly acidic(especially if it is a seedling with an open root system).
If the purchased seedling with a closed root system, then when it is planted in a permanent place you can not shake off the earthen lump, especially prune the root system.

Advice! Actually, always it is preferable to buy seedlings in containers (with a closed root system).

Lack of moisture or waterlogging

The correct watering regime for the plant is also very important. Hydrangea is the flower that drinks a lot of water and always drinks, which means that for abundant flowering it needs a constantly moist soil. But it is also impossible to pour it, the bush can rot. However, in this particular case, it is better to pour over than not to top up.

If the soil under the bushes is too dry, then the plant is also sluggish. What a bloom here! Therefore, in the summer, hydrangeas need to be watered at least 2 times a week. And it is better every other day or even every day if the heat is above +30. Also, for better moisture retention, it is recommended to mulch the soil next to the bushes.

Note! If your soil is clayey, therefore, moisture will stagnate in it, so it is imperative to do good drainage at the bottom of the planting pit when planting.

Wrong choice and untimely fertilization, excess or lack of fertilizing

Excess fertilizer in the soil is also harmful to this. flowering perennial as well as their lack. Especially dangerous to use in the second half of summer and even more so in autumn nitrogen fertilizers in a large volume, because nitrogen contributes to the growth of vegetative mass to the detriment of flowering. And if such a top dressing is introduced in the autumn, then new shoots begin to actively grow in the shrub, which do not have time to develop and mature enough before the onset of frost. As a result, they simply freeze out and die in winter. In addition, the growth of shoots in autumn leads to the fact that nutrients are spent by the plant not for preparing for winter, but for growing shoots, which significantly weakens the hydrangea, and as a result, the plant may freeze in winter.

Therefore, fertilizers, mainly containing nitrogen, are applied to the soil under hydrangeas only in the spring, and in the summer and autumn, top dressing should consist for the most part (a little nitrogen is still allowed) of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. Such fertilizers activate the appearance of inflorescences (promote budding) and excellent flowering, and in autumn they help shrubs to lay flower buds and better prepare for the onset of cold weather.

Thus, for example, if you realized that you have overfed the hydrangea with nitrogen, then you should fertilize it with an increased amount of potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, but within reasonable limits.

Fertilization should be started in early spring, when the buds on the shoots are just beginning to swell.

Note! It is advisable to dissolve each of the fertilizers in water (all doses are written for 10 liters of water and 1 square meter of the flower bed) and water at the root.

There are also special ready-made fertilizers for hydrangeas.

Advice! If you rarely visit the country, then it is optimal to use special complex fertilizers prolonged action... In other words, in early spring, 1 time you need to close up fertilizer in the near-stem circle of the hydrangea, and the plant will gradually receive nutrition almost throughout the season.

Soil acidification is not carried out

Note! The need for fertilizing, as well as acidification, arises about 2-3 years after planting, when the plant completely draws out all the juices (all nutrition) from the substrate with which the planting pit was filled.

If you want hydrangeas to bloom luxuriously and not suffer from chlorosis, then the soil under the hydrangeas should always be acidic, which means that it must be acidified periodically (at least once a month during the flowering period).

You can acidify the soil under hydrangeas following compositions and solutions:

a weakly acidic electrolyte solution (10 ml per 10 liters of water);
vinegar (100 ml of 9% vinegar per 10 liters of water);
citric acid (20-40 g per 10 l of water).

Advice! Moreover, it is desirable to additionally add iron chelate or (20-30 grams per 10 liters) to the above solutions.

You can regulate the color of hydrangeas by changing the acidity of the soil. So, the more acidic the soil, the more violet or blue the color will be, and, conversely, if the acidity is lower, then the inflorescences can be pink or crimson.

Worth knowing! Make from pink hydrangeas blue is not so easy. Even if you have very acidic soil, but there is not enough movable aluminum in it, there will be no color changes. Therefore, you need a solution of potassium alum (30-40 grams per 10 liters, consumption per adult plant - up to 2-3 liters), or you can use aluminum sulfate (dig into the soil, up to 500 grams per 1 square meter).

Incorrect pruning in spring and / or autumn

No trimming, for example, actually you cannot achieve a chic and friendly flowering of a tree hydrangea, which blooms only on the shoots of the current year. Therefore, it can be argued that pruning directly affects flowering. But it should be understood that this does not apply to all hydrangeas. That is why it is very important to know the characteristics of your particular species and variety, because other species bloom on last year's shoots, and if you cut them every year, then the hydrangea simply cannot bloom.

Important! Often, inexperienced growers remove flower buds. In this case, the hydrangea will not bloom next year. Therefore, most often, although the essence of pruning does not change.

In addition, some types and varieties of hydrangeas form too many shoots, in this case, excess branches growing inside the bushes must be removed so that the bushes do not thicken. If timely do not thin out the bushes, then the inflorescences will be smaller, and on strongly thickened perennials, flowers may not appear at all.

It is equally important to periodically (every 4-5 years) carry out anti-aging pruning, because inflorescences will not appear on very old branches.

Video: how to achieve flowering tree hydrangea through correct pruning

By the way! You can read nuances and hydrangeas in separate detailed articles on our website.

Lack of shelter for the winter

It is necessary to shelter hydrangeas for the winter in most regions of our country. This is done so that the flower buds do not freeze - in this case, the perennial will not bloom next year. However, not all types of hydrangeas need shelter. So, the tree-like and paniculate varieties are quite frost-resistant, but they should also be slightly spud or mulched, while the large-leaved one must be covered for the winter.

Before the onset of cold weather, all shoots are tied together and covered with non-woven material. Or you can simply cover the stems from above with coniferous spruce branches, which will well protect the plants from temperature extremes. However, it is still better to install the frame on top and place the covering material on it.

Important! About, what hydrangeas and how to properly cover them for the winter, read in detail.

Video: why large-leaved hydrangea does not bloom and winters badly

Diseases and pests

Most often, the hydrangea is not sick with anything, and it is rarely overcome by any pests. In addition, she can quite successfully resist such attacks on her own. But if the plant nevertheless got sick with something, and because of this its flowering stopped, then you need to urgently help it.

For example, hydrangea most often has chlorosis, which manifests itself in the fact that the leaf plates begin to fade, become light bile in color, spots appear on them, and they begin to fall off, and the flower ovaries become smaller. This is due to the alkalization of the soil and the lack of iron in it. To defeat the disease, an increased amount of iron and an acidifier must be added to the soil for its normal and rapid absorption. For this, a solution or iron chelate is suitable, as well as one of the acidifiers (sulfuric acid, vinegar or citric acid). For example, in a bucket of water, mix 20-40 grams of citric acid and 20-30 grams of ferrous sulfate.

Fungal diseases"Attack" hydrangeas very rarely and only when the soil is too wet. Therefore, to prevent them, the irrigation regime should be observed so that the soil is moist, but without stagnation of moisture in it. However, it happens that on the leaves of the hydrangea you may notice powdery mildew ... Treatment with a solution will help to cope with it or

Of the pests most often on hydrangeas, the following can appear:

slugs and snails;

spider mite;

But for strong and sturdy shrubs, attacks of such pests are not terrible. They can usually be dealt with folk methods: by spraying with soap or onion infusion. Or you can use insecticides such as Fitoverm, Fufanon, or Actellik.

Thus, in conclusion, I would like to note that all varieties of hydrangeas are distinguished by long and abundant flowering, if these shrubs are properly looked after and initially planted according to all recommendations. However, it should be admitted that these flowers can hardly be called unpretentious, since if the irrigation regime is violated, improper feeding, lack of acidification, incorrect pruning, these perennial shrubs can stop flowering. But observing all the rules for caring for these perennials, there is no doubt that hydrangeas will thank their owners with abundant and lush flowering.

Video: how to achieve a gorgeous hydrangea bloom

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