How to cover the chipboard for moisture resistance. How to cover and treat chipboard from moisture

Low cost chipboard, high performance features, the versatility of application made them very popular material. The most frequent scope of application - furniture manufacturing and construction. The main enemy of these plates is water - the chips increases in the amount, the stove swells, it brends and crushes.

At the very beginning of the production of sawdust and chips after drying, they are impregnated with formaldehyde resins. After pressing the surface of the slabs is laminated, sometimes even lacquer.

But the surface protection does not save from the penetration of moisture ends, through which it enters inside. Accumulating inside, water gradually begins to penetrate the wood fibers, which leads to the destruction of the plate. Consequently, from liquid penetration during operation, it is necessary to save the first ends. If they are tightly sealed, the service life of the plates will increase.

Why exactly the ends are the starting platform for destruction? Yes, because the production of the plates of the necessary standard sizesEqually, as well as the preparation of different magnesium pieces of material requires cutting. In this case, the integrity of the wood fibers is disturbed.

Thus, the protection of chipboard from moisture is carried out in three areas:

  • impregnation of wood fibers resins;
  • special surface treatment;
  • sealing ends.

The first step along the path of moisture resistance

Already at the beginning production of chipboard The process is carried out to protect them from the penetration of water - the so-called shavy routine. Thanks to this operation, two goals are achieved - the saturation of the fibers of resins and their gluing. For most of the plates manufactured, formaldehyde resins are used, already by definition that are a hydrophobic component of the product.

In cases where there is still a large moisture resistance from the plates, another binder is used, that is, the formaldehyde resin is replaced with urea and amelaminic. It glues the shavips much more stronger, thereby being a stronger obstacle on the path of moisture. With an additional introduction into a chip carpet of molten paraffin or its emulsion, the moisture resistance of the chipboard is still increasing.

Treatment of surface plates

The facial and reverse surface of the plate, as the largest square of contact, without any protection can skip through themselves and soak up, respectively, the greatest number liquids. It will not be superfluous to cover these planes with something moisture proof. Some of the ways of such a coverage are possible only in factory conditions, some - and home.

One of the main protection methods is lamination. With it, a melamine film is stacked on a polished chipboard at high pressure and high temperature. The essence of this process is not in pressing, but in the fact that in these conditions the film polymerizes the surface of the plate, becoming one with it one.

There is another way performed in the factory conditions - this is a caring. It also uses pressure and heating, but more gentle. Already culled film pressed to the coated with a glue plate. If the lamination is a chemical process, then the combination is mechanical.

Components of laminated chipboard

At home, a non-aluminated chipboard is covered to protect multiple layers of paint. Before painting the surface is pre-treated:

  • from the surface, dust swears and erases;
  • for the first fold plate, the hot oil is launched;
  • next, this is done by the cold olphoi before the formation of the outer crust;
  • painting is made on top. For any ways to paint, it is necessary to remember that each subsequent paint layer is applied to the already dried previous one.

There are several more ways to protect against fling. For example, a surface that will not be subject to mechanical exposure, it can be protected like this: rub the stearin, then heat the hairdryer. Give cool, and repeat it a couple more times. Or: one part of the bitumen varnish is prevented with five parts of the oil. The coating is carried out twice.

Treatment of joints and edges

Water is always looking for the lowest place, deepening. And what, if not deepening, are the joints on horizontal planes? Especially many such joints in the cabinet furniture, which is performed just from the chipboard. Kitchen furniture is generally like on advanced: and water with excess, and evaporation is enough. Most exposed to moisture washing, wardrobe with drying, countertop, furniture near and over kitchen stove.

Cranes all once begin to leak. So in the car wash the most promising dangerous place Where the mixer is crashed in the worktop. This is the place of contact of the metal and wood. Perhaps not only the leakage of the crane, but also the condensation of water at the point of contact.

Therefore, this place is cleaned, dried with a hairdryer. Next is applied by a layer of PVA glue, after drying Silicone. It is possible a building sealant, it is also a silicone mass, it even from the flow window Rama Sealish.


The edge not only protects the chipboard from the effects of moisture, but also reduces the emissions of harmful substances

In the kitchen cabinet, check the presence or absence of a pallet: if it is not, then the liquid, stacking to the bottom of the locker, will ruin it. For all kitchen furniturewhere it is possible to wet, you need to take yourself as a rule: degrease this place and then do not regret the sealant.

For seams of seams, it is better to use the sanitary silicone of a suitable shade: dark mold spots will not appear on the surface.

Narmuminized edges of the table top are closed by connecting or end planks. They are metal or plastic. The defense is not so, so pre-end the countertops should be treated with silicone. Another way of protection is to apply a cut-off lacquer or pva glue. Offered building market Self-adhesive films or scotch reliable protection It is impossible to name.

Inserting the joints of the chipboard on the floor

The difficulty lies in the fact that the plates are constantly exposed to significant physical exertion, they "play" relative to each other. For this reason, the shtatlevka does not want to keep. There are several people's methods Sealing such seams.

The seams are smeared with epoxy mixed with sawdust. Sawdles are pre-sifted. The composition is collapsed very quickly, so immediately a large amount of such smelting should not be harvested. Such protection serves a long time and reliably. But the price of epoxy is high, and seams are expensive.

It is possible to replace the epoxy of hot joinery glue. It is necessary to mix in it sawdust and walk along the seams.

The effect is achieved even greater than with epoxy, since hot glue penetrates deep into. This method and moisture saves, and the joke stops "playing". True, several days for this floor, it is advisable not to walk, as the joinery is driving long.

It costs such a way much cheaper. And if the floor is still covered with linoleum, then about damage plate chipboard In general, you can forget.

Greetings to you! Perhaps you know the situation when kitchen set From water turns into a bunch of firewood. Laminate becomes loose and loses its original shape. It is necessary to eliminate the cause of damage and replace damaged, there is no other way to save the headsets.

Risk zone

And to prevent such a situation, it is important when assembling to perform simple actions. First of all, we protect the cabinet under the sink and the wardrobe with the dishwasher, the modules are directly in contact with water. In the latter, it is desirable to install frame facades with a grille for air circulation.

The risk zone also includes snubs with dishwasher and washing machine. I recommend making such modules such as moisture-proof material. If the situation does not allow it to do, then we use sanitary, transparent sealant. This is a reliable protection against moisture of your kitchen.

Sealant transparent

For more than 10 years experience with him, there was no possibility to doubt his reliability. But unfortunately in stores there are along with good and low-quality goods. In order to check the sealant properties, you need to leave the droplet when room temperature for three hours.

If the drop froze well (it has a rubber-like consistency), then you purchased a quality product. If the drop does not save his form (leaves tracks in the hands), then the time of frozen will have to increase to a minimum of 12 hours.

Before assembling modules

Before assembling modules entering the risk area, it is necessary to thoroughly ignite with silicone all the non-crumpled ends on the details. And then, while the sealant has not frozen, proceed to the assembly. Thus, you can protect inaccessible for hands, but available for water items.

We draw attention to the design of the cabinet with disassembly. If it has aluminum planks, then everything is in order. If not, then in no case we do not produce these parts from LDSP, because they are unrecognizable. For these purposes, it is necessary to apply wooden planks.

In walking distance from you, placed on the calculation of cabinet furniture.

Protection countertops from moisture

Go to the protection of the main part - countertop. Moisture-resistant table tops look great, but here the manufacturer gives only a whole countertop. In the event that you saw it, which is necessarily necessary, then the guarantees for the fact that it will not swell from moisture, no.

Be sure to siliconym the end tables before fastening the connective plank. And do not regret silicone, the surplus is removed with a damp cloth. Postforming (facial rounded end) has a kipplesball, which prevents water from entering the lower stands. There is nothing to worry about.

The only thing I would recommend, during the installation of making a small roll of table tops on the level not to the wall, but to the hostess. For spontaneous water stack from the table. And in order to completely eliminate the penetration of water, I will tell you how I mount the closed plinth on the tabletop.

My way of protection against moisture

First of all, laying a silicone layer between the wall and the table. Then I attract the base of the plinth. The genesis laying the joints of the base with the wall and with the table top, i.e. in two places. And only then fix the facial part of the plinth. Through such protection, the water does not slip, checked!

Layer at the junction of the false and countertops

Layer at the junction of the base with a raised panel and a layer at the junction with a tabletime

And only then the facial part

Washing

Installation should be performed with special care and patience. When buying, be sure to pay attention to the locks and tongues on the sink to which they are attached. Castles should be chosen fixed, i.e. It should be possible to snap into the tongues, and not just cling.

Castles play the main role when installing the washing and the life of the entire headset depends on the fastener. And therefore, without bustle, we carry out the sink thoroughly drank and put a good layer around the perimeter. After fastening the washing, we remove the surplus with a damp cloth.

Similar way to mounted and cook surface. The likeness is expressed in sufficient sealant. I drank carefully, also a layer around the perimeter. After connecting to communications, lay the cooking. After 12 hours it will not be possible to tear off the tabletop.

Protection Base

If the cuisine is not plastic, but is made of laminate, then slow down (dying, fasten) to the bottom edge of the base, it will reliably protect the bottom part of the part from the moisture, after all, wet attacks on the headset occur on the floor.

After installation, do not connect water immediately. We are waiting at least 12 hours so that all the joints froze. It's not afraid if you made a big puddle on the tabletop - wiped and forgotten. It is important not to leave the water on the table top for the night. Elementary accuracy will extend the life of your furniture.

Conclusion

These are all recommendations for preventing trouble from bulk kitchen. If your headsets are already a booze, then it can be cured only by the "surgical" method. Be careful, do not leave modules and working surface wet overnight. And then your favorite cuisine will delight you for more than a dozen years.

If you need the detailing of cabinet and built-in furniture, please contact. We will definitely discuss the terms of cooperation and come to a common opinion. For a reasonable percentage for his work, I, on the designated time frame.

What would you like to add to this article?

Tell me about your experience in the comments.

I will be very interested to listen to your stories!

With good thoughts about you, always in sawdust 🙂

Reong Dmitry.

Chipboard is an excellent construction material, but not too attractive in comparison with wood, and is also particularly affected by factors. external environment. Products from DSP receive a certain protection in the process of manufacture. To do this, all sorts of impregnations and additives are used. However, under the intensive conditions of operation, such factory measures are not enough, therefore it is recommended to further protect the material. How to protect the chipboard, as well as process it finishing materialswill be discussed below.

Treatment of surface plates

Facial I. interior The plates have the largest squares, so if they are not protected, they account for the greatest amount of moisture. Simultaneously with the protection, the material can be decorated. Below are several such techniques.

Lamination

The lamination process is a chipboard of paper-resin films. Facing is carried out at high temperatures (150-200 degrees) and elevated pressure (25-30 MPa). The protective-decorative layer occurs due to the spreading of hot resin on the surface. Next, the resin is polymerized, forming a solid monotonous coating.

If observed technological processBetween the chipboard and the resin there is a reliable clutch. During lamination, a certain surface texture is created - it is usually gloss or. Laminated surfaces are resistant to mechanical effects, moisture, ultraviolet radiation and high temperatures.

Cashing

During the chipboard, the chipboard is covered with a glue layer, which is then placed solid paper-resin nonlacked films. The difference between the lamination brazing is that when combing decorative coating pasted on the slab in the finished form. For example, embossing "under the wood texture" is done in advance. Such films are called "finish."

As in the case of lamination, when processing the material, high pressure and high temperature are also used by the combination method. However, the parameters in this case are more gentle: the temperature is from 20 to 150 degrees, the pressure is from 5 to 7 MPa.

The lack of coating lies in the instability of the coating to mechanical impacts and moisture. This surface is easily scratched and swell. Cashing is used, mainly in the manufacture of low-cost furniture, as well as for the production of parts that are not subject to aggressive impact ambient (For example, the rear walls of the cabinet).

Paint coating

Narmitic sheet chipboard can be covered with several layers paintwork. The sequence of works is presented below:

  • we remove dust and dirt from the sheet;
  • fracting a sheet of chipboard heated oliff;
  • again the sheet again, but this time with a cold oliff (a thin crust should appear);
  • we apply the first layer of paint;
  • after drying the first layer, we apply the second.

Finishing paper-layered polymers

Layered plastic is a polymer in which a niche for filler is located. As a filler used fabric, paper, veneer and other materials. The manufacture of paper-layered filler is based on paper. It acts as a reinforcing layer, and also gives a layered plasticity, strength and external attractiveness to a layered polymer.

The finish begins with cutting sheets of chipboard of the desired dimension. Via compressed air And brushes from sheets removed dirt and dust. If you do not remove contamination before painting, the high-quality adhesion does not work.

Sticking facing material It is carried out by directly pressing a paper-layered polymer, which is pre-applied glue and chipboard. Pressing can be carried out with a hot way (adhesives based on urea or PVA) or a cold method (contact adhesives of PVA-dispersion are used). In practice, cold pressing is used not so often, since the process requires extensive areas, and the performance is relatively low.

The finish posting is completed. Task - give plastic bends and others wrong forms. The process is carried out on special equipment at elevated temperature.

Polymer films

The process of imposing polymer films is similar to decorative cladding plastics. The difference lies in the materials used. In this case, we are talking about a thermoplastic film imposed by pressing a chipboard treated with adhesive composition.

Polyvinyl chloride films are used for finishing chipboard. Occasionally use polystyrene and acrylic films.

The finishing of polymer films is carried out on the same technological equipment, on which such finishing materials are applied as veneer or paper-layered polymers. The process of cladding can be both hot and cold.

The advantage of facing by the polymer method is the possibility of processing profile parts. However, the use of polymer films has limited potential, since the coating does not differ in high physicomechanical properties, as well as unstable to temperature effects.

Vacuum pressing

Vacuum (or as it is called otherwise - membrane) pressing is a technological process, during which the furniture is covered decorative film. The main advantage of the method is the ability to cover the details of a complex form.

For example, with the help of membrane pressing, you can bind furniture handmade With all sorts of deepening, cutouts, miniature details, etc. Detail holds B. vacuum presswhere it is tight, repeating the relief of the surface, cutting the warmed polyvinyl chloride film.

Nipping

The correct name of the process is the trough. However, the term "veneering" is often used in everyday life. Natural veneer can be finished both chipboard and furniture Shield. Veneered furniture is characterized by higher quality, in comparison with laminated. However, maintaining the safety of veneered furniture is quite difficult, as the veneer is not as durable as the laminate.

Tabletop of chipboard or MDF

To finish a sheet of chipboard or MDF, there will be plastic (paper-layered, polycarbonate, polystyrene).

Progress of work:

  1. Cut the desired details from the chipboard, connect them to the stapler.
  2. The junctions between the details of the DSP base must be the same. If it is not so, align their sandpaper.
  3. We make cladding for the ends.
  4. Cut the facing part with the help of a grinder.
  5. We glue the finishing material and fix with light blows of the rubber hammer.
  6. We establish an end pad at the level with the bottom edge of the table top.
  7. At the same time facing glue the base and apron.
  8. When installing laminate, we use separators. After installing the sheet, we remove the separators.
  9. We smooth the surface with roller.
  10. Using a milling and cutting a hole under the sink.
  11. When the design is collected, grind all the edges.

Protection of joints and edges

Any liquid is always looking for and finds the lowest place on the surface. The joints are recesses, so we are vulnerable to water. Considerable amount of joints is available in cabinet furniture, where the main structural material is chipboard.

because of high humidity And frequent contact with liquids is especially vulnerable to kitchen furniture. Washing, countertop, furniture next to the kitchen stove is the most commonly moisturized furniture items in the house. As an example, you can bring the part of the countertop that contacts the mixer. Crane sooner or later gives to leak, which means that unprotected chipboard will inevitably get intoxicate and collapse.

To protect the joints, these places first cleaned and dried with a hairdryer. Then we put on the joints of PVA glue, and when it dries, process the protected surface with silicone or, as an option, a building sealant.

If there is no pallet in the dishwashed cabinet, then sooner or later, the liquid flowing down from the wet dishes will destroy the chipboard. Therefore, the material must be determined, and then processed its sealant.

Seams close up by sanitary silicone of the corresponding color furniture. This will avoid the appearance of mold on the furniture.

In those places the edges of the table top, where there is no lamination, install end or connecting sheets. These elements can be made of metal or plastic. The planks are not perfect protection, so the edges still need to be pre-treated with sealant. Another common method of protecting the chipboard is applied on the edges of the PVA or furniture lacquer.

Protection of joints on the floor

The main complexity in the protection of the joints on the floor is that such plates are subject to increased mechanical loads and constantly slightly shifted during loads. Because of this, the putty is badly kept on the chipboard.

To ensure the protection of the joints on the floor, the seams are processed epoxy resinMixed with wood sawdust. Moreover, sawdust must be very small - they need to be sifted in advance.

Note! Epoxy-sieve composition grabbing extremely quickly. Based on this, you should not knead too much putty immediately.

A mixture of epoxy and sawdust reliably protect the joints, however, the cost of such a solution is high enough. Replace the epoxy resin can be joinery glue. In hot glue, you need to add sawdust, and then the resulting composition of the seams. If you do everything correctly, the effect will be even better than when processing an epoxy resin, since the glue penetrates deeper.

After processing the seams, the DSP joints will become more resistant to moisture and, which is equally important, they will stop "play" among themselves. If you separate the chipboard with linoleum, you can no longer worry about the safety of the plates.

After processing the seams, it will take several days to dry the smelting. At this time, it is impossible to walk on the stoves so as not to break the joints.

Chipboard protective and finishing materials in many cases requires certain experience and qualifications, and sometimes the availability special equipment. If there is no confidence in own power, it is better to charge work to specialists.

The low cost of chipboard, high performance characteristics, the universality of application made them very popular material. The most frequent scope of application is furniture and construction. The main enemy of these plates is water - the chips increases in the amount, the stove swells, it brends and crushes.

At the very beginning of the production of sawdust and chips after drying, they are impregnated with formaldehyde resins. After pressing the surface of the slabs is laminated, sometimes even lacquer.

But the surface protection does not save from the penetration of moisture ends, through which it enters inside. Accumulating inside, water gradually begins to penetrate the wood fibers, which leads to the destruction of the plate. Consequently, from liquid penetration during operation, it is necessary to save the first ends.

If they are tightly sealed, the service life of the plates will increase.

In the photo - the consequences of water impact on the worktop from the chipboard

Why exactly the ends are the starting platform for destruction? Yes, because the production of the plates of the necessary standard sizes, as well as the preparation of different largest pieces of material requires cutting. In this case, the integrity of the wood fibers is disturbed.

Thus, the protection of chipboard from moisture is carried out in three areas:

  • impregnation of wood fibers resins;
  • special surface treatment;
  • sealing ends.

The first step along the path of moisture resistance

Already at the beginning of the production of chipboard, a process is carried out, designed to protect them from water penetration - the so-called shavings. Thanks to this operation, two goals are achieved - the saturation of the fibers of resins and their gluing. For most of the plates manufactured, formaldehyde resins are used, already by definition that are a hydrophobic component of the product.

Green splashes in chipboard - special water repellent components

In cases where there is still a large moisture resistance from the plates, another binder is used, that is, the formaldehyde resin is replaced with urea and amelaminic. It glues the shavips much more stronger, thereby being a stronger obstacle on the path of moisture. With an additional introduction into a chip carpet of molten paraffin or its emulsion, the moisture resistance of the chipboard is still increasing.

Treatment of surface plates

The facial and reverse surface of the plate, as the largest square of contact, without protection can skip through themselves and soak up, respectively, the largest amount of fluid. It will not be superfluous to cover these planes with something moisture proof. Some of the ways of such a coverage are possible only in factory conditions, some - and home.

One of the main protection methods is lamination. With it, a melamine film is stacked on a polished chipboard at high pressure and high temperature. The essence of this process is not in pressing, but in the fact that in these conditions the film polymerizes the surface of the plate, becoming one with it one.

There is another way performed in the factory conditions - this is a caring. It also uses pressure and heating, but more gentle. Already culled film pressed to the coated with a glue plate. If the lamination is a chemical process, then the combination is mechanical.

Components of laminated chipboard

At home, a non-aluminated chipboard is covered to protect multiple layers of paint. Before painting the surface is pre-treated:

  • from the surface, dust swears and erases;
  • for the first fold plate, the hot oil is launched;
  • next, this is done by the cold olphoi before the formation of the outer crust;
  • painting is made on top. For any ways to paint, it is necessary to remember that each subsequent paint layer is applied to the already dried previous one.

There are several more ways to protect against fling. For example, a surface that will not be subject to mechanical exposure, it can be protected like this: rub the stearin, then heat the hairdryer. Give cool, and repeat it a couple more times. Or: one part of the bitumen varnish is prevented with five parts of the oil. The coating is carried out twice.

Treatment of joints and edges

Water is always looking for the lowest place, deepening.

And what, if not deepening, are the joints on horizontal planes? Especially many such joints in the cabinet furniture, which is performed just from the chipboard. Kitchen furniture is generally like on advanced: and water with excess, and evaporation is enough.

How to treat Phaneur, chipboard and wood to protect against moisture?

Most exposed to moisture washing, wardrobe with drying, countertop, furniture near and over the kitchen stove.

Cranes all once begin to leak. So in the car wash the most promising dangerous place where the mixer is crashed in the worktop. This is the place of contact of the metal and wood. Perhaps not only the leakage of the crane, but also the condensation of water at the point of contact. Therefore, this place is cleaned, dried with a hairdryer. Next is applied by a layer of PVA glue, after drying Silicone. It is possible a construction sealant, it is also a silicone mass, even the window frames are sealed from the flow.

The edge not only protects the chipboard from the effects of moisture, but also reduces the emissions of harmful substances

In the kitchen cabinet, check the presence or absence of a pallet: if it is not, then the liquid, stacking to the bottom of the locker, will ruin it. For all kitchen furniture, where it is possible to wet, you need to take yourself as a rule: degrease this place and then do not regret the sealant.

For seams of seams, it is better to use the sanitary silicone of a suitable shade: dark mold spots will not appear on the surface.

Narmuminized edges of the table top are closed by connecting or end planks. They are metal or plastic. The defense is not so, so pre-end the countertops should be treated with silicone. Another way of protection is to apply a cut-off lacquer or pva glue. Self-adhesive films or tape proposed by the construction market are impossible to name.

Inserting the joints of the chipboard on the floor

The difficulty lies in the fact that the plates are constantly exposed to significant physical exertion, they "play" relative to each other. For this reason, the shtatlevka does not want to keep. There are several folk methods of sealing such seams.

The seams are smeared with epoxy mixed with sawdust. Sawdles are pre-sifted. The composition is collapsed very quickly, so immediately a large amount of such smelting should not be harvested. Such protection serves a long time and reliably. But the price of epoxy is high, and seams are expensive.

It is possible to replace the epoxy of hot joinery glue. It is necessary to mix in it sawdust and walk along the seams.

The effect is achieved even greater than with epoxy, since hot glue penetrates deep into. This method and moisture saves, and the joke stops "playing". True, several days for this floor, it is advisable not to walk, as the joinery is driving long.

It costs such a way much cheaper. And if the floor is still covered with linoleum on top, then you can forget about the damping plates of the chipboard at all.

Perhaps you will be interested to know

How can I protect the chipboard panels from moisture

Until now, the chipboard is widely used when repairs. After all, these plates are universal. They are suitable for alignment of walls, ceiling, styling dry screed, creating interior partitions etc. But if the chipboard is planned to be installed in the kitchen or in the bathroom, certain measures should be taken to protect it from moisture. What ways are available in this case? Main approaches will be discussed below.

1. Processing chipboard olifoy

From the most simple methods You should call the applying of the Olifa on the chipboard plate. Most often, this method is used when the chipboard is planned to be placed on the floor when creating a draft screed. On the main part of the plates of the Olifu are applied by two layers. On the ends of the slab chipboard, Olifu should be applied at least three times, because in these areas it will be especially intensively absorbed.

To increase the moisture resistance of the DSP panels in Olif, you can add a bit of bitumen varnish. It is enough 1 part of the varnish on 5 parts of the oil.

2. Painting the chipboard of chipboard glue

Increase waterproof chillery indicators will be able to cover it with PVA glue. TO this method Apply in almost any situation. That is, the slab treated in this way can be used to align surfaces and mounting partitions. But you can start working only after the glue is completely dry.

It is desirable that the panels are also processed at least twice. Moreover, glue composition It can play the role of primer, so in the future it will be easier to apply plaster, putty or paint.

Impregnation of chipboard - smell protection

Warming chipboard protective film

Another successful way to protect the chipboard from moisture becomes adhesive protective film. It does not just protect the material from contact with moisture, and additionally improves it appearance. I.e self-adhesive film Performs and decorative function. The owner remains to pick up a suitable sample and stick it correctly. To do this, the panel should be cleared of contamination and dust, eliminate the protective layer from the film and perform it to stick. Special sets are installed on the ends decorative corners With water resistant qualities.

Each method has its advantages. And the owner who will be able to correctly perform work will receive the chipboard panels, reliably protected from moisture. Then the finished material will be able to use when working even in those rooms, which differ in not the most favorable operational conditions.

Treat the tabletop, or rather drank under the woiler panel, the sink is possible with the help of a metal scotch. The effect is simply class, it will probably be a tabletop faster.

What to protect the feet of wardrobes from LDSP from moisture?

But as always, but. Material is easily injured, and quite (tearingly carefully) time consuming can do not really like the assemblers on this, and maybe someone does not know. As they say the eyes are afraid, and their hands do.

P.S. Scotch base Aluminum foil.

—————————————————————————————
Oliflats are paint-forming materials based on recycled vegetable oils. The composition of natural olive includes exclusively drying vegetable oils (linen, hemp, sometimes add sunflower oil) and sequivans. Syccats are manganese, cobalt, lead carboxylic salts that accelerate the drying process. Organic solvents are adding organic solvents - White spirit, ski *****, Solovent oil. Oxidized olifes are obtained by heating linen or heating oil to 150-160 degrees with stirring and transmitting sequivations through them. Such olifes have greater viscosity, increased resistance, glitter, more dark colorthan natural. Sealing olifes, unlike natural, are obtained with a longer heat treatment at a temperature of about 300 degrees.

A fungus appears on silicone coatings over time.

Dear visitor! You are in the archive of the old Mastergrad.com website

How to protect chipboard from water?

Paly.
July 21, 2004.
16:35:58
Good day!
There was a problem, scattering a dskey frame of a kitchen from leakage. The bromes were illuminated, but it did not help. I think there was a violated technology, or a bad chipboard. Kitchen producers changed the frame, but in order to avoid the problem I want to pre-process the edges. I tried to smell liquid nails Sliced \u200b\u200bchipboard and put the processed end in a bowl with water, overnight scatter ...: (((Advise, what means is it better to use to seal edges?
Good luck
Pavel
Shadow.
(Moscow)
July 21, 2004.
18:06:44
2 paul: grate open areas silicon hermetic
Shadow.
(Moscow)
July 21, 2004.
18:10:32
2 Paul: Sorry - under open areas Understand unplanned portions of the frame.
In addition, nothing prevents you from wagging to those sealant and the cable edges - the silicone film will definitely not miss the water.
Paly.
July 21, 2004.
20:10:49
2Shandow: rubbed the silicone sealant of the particle chipboard (cutout under the sink) - to hold badly: ((I think it will be even worse on the laminated surface ... here you need something penetrating-try parquet lacquer. But I will inform the results.
Good luck
Pavel
Serg.
(Samara, Russia)
July 22, 2004.
01:31:38
2Pal:

Olifa soak several times.

Best regards, Sergei

Paly.
July 22, 2004.
08:31:15
The varnish did not help the sample left in the water for the night of swakes: ((
2 serg: Today I will try Olif ...
Good luck
Pavel
Shrek
(Tomsk)
July 22, 2004.
10:15:46
IMHO, if the chipboard in the water is to leave for the night, then at least he is so much will swell.
Serg.
(Samara, Russia)
July 23, 2004.
00:18:13
2Pal:

You can apply heated in a water bath - it will be better to absorb.

Best regards, Sergei

TRIX
(SPB)
July 23, 2004.
11:33:23
Yeah. And under pressure. Then the class is generally. Only anyway will not help much. The chipboard is badly impregnated. The binder does not give impregnation to go deep into. And water is such a CCHchchch that climbs into all the cracks, pores and TP and smells materials. You can search for hydrophobic mixtures of type liquid silicone. Under it will not swell. But this is not suitable for furniture.
Shrek
(Tomsk)
July 23, 2004.
12:45:21
What else thought :) ...

How can I cover chipboard for waterproof?

If such a means it would be, then manufacturers of kitchens from chipboard would have been used :). IMHO, Bescalezno good tool Search. Only impregnation with oil and not to fill with water :).

Serg.
(Samara, Russia)
July 24, 2004.
00:50:45
2TRIX:

Application of olifa, heated in a water bath, is a standard reception.

\u003e DSP is poorly impregnated.

From the cut slicer, the slab is impregnated quite well.

This tool is - immediately place all the technological holes and then stick the melaminate - and on the rear wall too.

The front, the rolled end does not cause any questions - so with the rear you need to do the same.

Best regards, Sergei

Best regards, Sergei

Popular and demanded construction material. It is actively used in the furniture industry, as well as in construction for facing walls and gender. Conducted such love builders to this material by its low cost and excellent properties. Chipboard is plates that produce from pressed wood chip, the latter disadvantage of which is high absorption of moisture. Moisture leads to deformation and further destruction of the chipboard. The solution to this problem will be treatment of chipboard. Consider more about how to treat chipboard from moisture.

The processing of chipboard is carried out in three directions:

  • shaping
  • facial processing surfaces
  • treatment of chipboard - protont protection

Shaping

Such treatment of chipboard Performed at the time of production. For this chips for making chipboard Impregnate formaldehyde resins. Such resins glue the chips tightly, without allowing the penetration of moisture into the inside the plate. For the same purposes, ureheramine resins are used, they are more tightly glued fibers and, accordingly, have higher water repellent properties.

From moisture at the stage of production can also be produced liquid paraffin. Impregnate the chips to protect the stove from the penetration of moisture.

What to treat chipboard from moisture? One of the main and priority issues on the production of this material.

How to protect chipboard from moisture:

  • lamination. In the process of lamination on the prepared and polished surface, the chipboard is applied by a melamine film under the influence high temperatures (200 degrees) and high pressure (25 MPa). Polymerization of the surface occurs. With the help of lamination helps protect the material from moisture exposure, sun ray, temperature drops and various damage.
  • Cashing. The coating process is similar to laminaria, but is more gentle. In this case, it happens at a lower temperature (up to 150 degrees) and less pressure (up to 7 MPa). The pressure film is applied to the surface of the chipboard treated with glue. Cashing is less resistant to moisture than lamination, and also suffers from various mechanical impacts. The film can peel down, swell and crack.
  • Staining the surface. With paint, one of the most accessible methods of protection of it from moisture. With this method, you will be able to treat DSP yourself at home. Just observe a number of simple rules:
  1. Before coloring, it is necessary to clean the chipboard from dirt and dust, pollute it

2. Then cover the layer of preheated olifa

4. Now you can move to staining. The paint is applied in a few layers, waiting for the complete drying of each of them.

  • Pot. polymer film or polymer plastic. Such a view dSP processing It implies applying to the surface of the material of the protective layer in the form of a film or polymer. For such purposes, polyvinyl chloride films are most often used. Before sticking it to the surface, it is necessary to clean it thoroughly, because any even the smallest dust particle can spoil the appearance of the material with irregularity and roughness. The chipboard of the chipboard is not a durable protection method. The film has low protective characteristics, suffers from temperature drop.
  • Sampling chipboard. This method lies in the facing of the surface of the chipboard natural veneer. This method is not particularly popular, as the veneer is not racks to mechanical damage. Watch for a veneer chipboard will be difficult.

Treatment of chipboard - protont protection

Another vulnerable place to penetrate moisture in chipboard are ends. Therefore, their processing should be given special attention. How to cover chipboard?

The HDSP processing on the sides is made using:

  • pVA glue. The ends are thoroughly wedged with glue, they give dry and then apply another layer.

Silicone.

  • Building sealant
  • Furniture varnish
  • Liquid paraffin

The floor used can be performed using a preheated joinery of mixed with sawdust. This is a simple and inexpensive grandfather method.

We hope for information about how to treat chipboard from deformation and moisture will become useful for you.
Irina Zheleznyak, Sobcor Internet editions "Atmwood. Wood-Industrial Bulletin"

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