Everyone who dreams of a cozy country house or at least about small bathhouse on the site, knows that better material than a tree for a house (bathhouse) of your dreams is hard to find. For such buildings, coniferous and deciduous logs are selected that have passed a special technological processing, in particular - removal of the bark. In this article, we will touch on such a topic as grinding wooden house... Do you need it, what's the use of it, and how to grind it correctly?

Walls are folded from logs peeled from bark, with a diameter of at least 18-40 cm wooden frame for the future structure. The log house is laid in a special way, it is not a monolithic stone or brickwork! The blockhouse is folded with crowns: one crown - one row of logs around the entire perimeter of the house. First row, the first crown of logs itself large diameter- this is the basis for the strength of the walls, and all the main responsibility for the stability of the house for a long time falls on it.

All other crowns are also important, but the first is the most important. The log house is simply obliged to have a reliable first crown!

But due to the lack of bark and multiple influences on the "bare" tree (precipitation, spider bugs, fungus, etc.), the wooden body of the log begins to collapse, moisture is freely absorbed into the wood, the crown begins to rot.

The same thing happens with the upper crowns, right up to the roof, and in a short time the house or bathhouse begins to tilt in one direction or another. The once elegant golden-straw logs are dyed, darkened, ugly spots of fungus and lichen appear on them, the walls "lead" as if from a toothache, the roof slides down due to a skew, window and doorways etc.

A couple of years, after the beginning of the destruction - before you is a typical hovel, a hut, as in the paintings of Russian artists-Wanderers of the mid-19th century with their sad realism.

To prevent this scary picture from turning into a real nightmare, you need to protect the tree!

Protection of wooden logs, laminated veneer lumber and boards is traditional - covering them with special impregnating compounds and painting the surface with varnishes or paint. For protection from the outside - facade processing, from the inside - indoor processing, respectively.

For better penetration of treatment compounds wooden surface it is necessary to grind it, preparing it for further processing, at the same time saving the frame from the fungus and moldy spots that have begun to form here and there.

What else will sanding give besides a smooth surface and getting rid of decay? Attractive aesthetic appearance, because after sanding, the natural, beautiful, clear structure of the wood will appear at a glance.

In the video:

Is this a difficult process?

If you know how to hold a grinder in your hands, then grinding a log house with your own hands will not seem like a difficult process to you. Another thing is the labor-consuming and time-consuming process, since work is done manually, in stages, albeit with the use of electromechanics and special attachments To her. To grind a log house in corners and grooves, you will have to use a chisel - this is the only one so far reliable way their processing, if you, of course, do not have sandblasting.

The sandblasting machine will quickly and efficiently process not only grooves and corners, it will perfectly cope with grinding the entire log house, removing only a thin upper layer wood, and will be able to get to the most inaccessible cracks, crevices, gaps and joints.

Grinding a log house and painting, in the presence of sandblasting, can be done in just a couple of days. You can clean the grooves and corners both before cleaning the entire wall of the house, and after. It doesn't matter.

Choosing a grinder

If there is no sandblaster, you will have to work with an angle grinder, preferably two in turn, so that the tool does not overheat. In addition, on one grinder you can set "grain" from 30 to 60 (remove the top coarse layer of the darkened wood), on the other - "grain" 80-120 (smooth and remove the raised pile of the log after the first treatment).

The eccentric belt is specially designed for grinding work. Sander, which has a built-in bag for collecting dust and sawdust, which are inevitable during the process.

This wonderful device does an excellent job of sanding flat surfaces, but with the task of sanding a rounded log cleanly, this convenient thing may not cope. We'll have to re-consider the option with two grinders and special grinding attachments. But a good belt sander will perfectly cope with the grinding of walls from a bar!

Before buying a tool, look at where the machine is drawing air from. The correct air intake will be at the back, not the side, so that the sander is less clogged. The length of the cord is also important - it is the freedom of your actions when working.

Which nozzle to choose for the job? Some argue that petal discs are ideal, others prefer a wire brush. The rule for any attachment is one: it should be of a smaller diameter than the area of ​​the grinder. Otherwise, you could be seriously injured if the bit gets stuck in a slot or slot.

Having decided what to grind, try on the weight of the tool on your hand - you will have to work for a long time and if the tool is heavy, then the “hand will fall off”, and you will have to grind large areas and it must be done quickly so that dirt does not have time to settle on the sanded surface before processing it with a waterproof fireproof antiseptic.

Another factor in choosing a tool is its power. It should be at least 200-300 W, and the number of revolutions per minute is 10,000-12,000. It remains only to arm yourself with a respirator or a thick mask to protect against dust and sawdust and goggles for the same purpose.

When to start processing?

You can start grinding right away, as soon as the frame dries up and shrinks. In time, it will take about 10 days, if the sun warms well. Otherwise, the waiting time will have to be increased.

Why is it impossible to immediately start grinding the log house as soon as it was put up? Can! Only if you guarantee that your house is made of well-dried logs (timber), and the moisture content of the wood will not exceed the prescribed 20%. Then put the crowns under the roof and start grinding work, followed by coating the log with various impregnations. The house will still have to be left to shrink, with or without impregnation.

If there is no confidence in 20%, then there is no need to rush - a damp wood will warp and the surface will not be smooth and beautiful.

How to grind properly

Grinding of walls from a bar is carried out in stages. All work will be reduced to five main steps:

1. Rough, initial sanding.
2. Grinding corners and grooves.
3. Processing of ends of logs.
4. Finishing - finishing grinding.
5. Coating wood with impregnation and other antiseptic compounds.

At the first stage (rough peeling), our task is to remove the darkened layer and smooth out all the irregularities left by the plane. The task is not difficult, but it takes time and attention.

How quickly you can handle it will depend on:

• your skill in working with the selected tool;
• the type and species of wood from which the frame is made (the amount of resin and the quality of the primary processing of the log);
• the number of complex elements that decorate the house;
• power and convenience of the tool;
• the total area of ​​the processed log house surface.

The grooves with the ends must go through the same initial grinding procedure. On average, the speed of this work is running meter A 30-40 cm log or bar will take about three minutes.

The next stage is very important. Finishing sanding before coating the impregnation must be done with great care - nothing can be fixed. Many craftsmen advise finishing by hand if you are not sure that you will not leave holes and grooves with a grinder due to lack of experience. The final, finishing sanding is delicate and requires a confident hand! Grinding the timber inside the house is carried out in the same order as outside - in stages.

After all sanding steps have been completed, carefully remove workplace, and the "fresh" house, vacuum and wipe with a slightly damp cloth dipped in white spirit to remove excess resin.

Resin is the enemy when coated with impregnation, it will not allow the impregnating film to lie flat, and this place will remain unprotected!

When covering the house with antiseptic, take Special attention ends - the consumption will be higher for them, because they are porous and will absorb liquid like a sponge. Walk with an antiseptic on them 3-4 times.

If the timber inside the house will not be sheathed, then it is recommended to carry out finishing grinding twice. The first - before applying the impregnation, the second - after the impregnation is dry. Then prime the walls along the inner perimeter again and only then cover with varnish or paint.

It is difficult to have time to polish the entire log house in a day, especially if its area is large. And if the sanded surface is not covered with special. solution within the first 12-16 hours, then the tree will begin to darken again, and time-consuming work will come to naught. The maximum period is 36 hours, and even then you have to clean up again in some places. Therefore, the one who polished and processed the house himself, advises to divide the blockhouse into parts and grind a small piece a day, bringing this piece to perfection.

Advice! It is better to start grinding from the upper rims, gradually moving downward. This will make your work more convenient.

Painting a log house after sanding can be started in a day, when the primer antiseptic will saturate the wood well and “grab” with an even adhesive film.

To give a felling nice looking over the entire surface, so that the color is the same everywhere, you can bleach the wood.

The whitening compound is applied prior to the initial sanding, allowed to dry and sanded. If one layer is not enough, dark spots remain or the logs still differ in color, the bleach is applied again, and the wood is sanded.

A couple of whitening treatments are usually sufficient. Such processing will prepare your polished log house for polishing with transparent varnishes or painting with light colors. The beauty of a properly polished log house, covered with varnish or paint, cannot be compared with the log or log “roll-up” that our log house was seen before it was so artistically processed.

Tips for choosing tools and polishing a log house (1 video)

After the log house has settled, it is time to polish it. The task of this operation is to remove the layer of wood that has darkened during shrinkage and achieve a uniform color. On the logs "from under the plane", the irregularities are still removed by grinding. The operation is not the most difficult, but it requires attention and takes a lot of time.

Since it flies during operation a large number of dust, you must have personal protective equipment. You will need anti-fog goggles and a respirator. Headphones and anti-vibration gloves do not interfere: they will be more comfortable with them. And it is imperative to protect the eyes and the breathing apparatus.

Two types of tools can be used for grinding logs and beams: eccentric grinders or grinders with appropriate attachments.

Grinding planed logs outside

It has long been known: how many people, so many opinions. And the choice of a tool for polishing a log house is no exception. Someone works exclusively with grinders, and someone only with grinders. Someone is more comfortable and faster to work with petal discs, while others do not accept them at all, but work with wire nozzles. It's up to you to choose. We are only telling you how you can do it.

Choosing a grinder

For grinding a log house from a planed log (from under a planer), angle grinders are used, which are usually called grinders. Choose not the most expensive, but not the cheapest models either. Cheap ones usually break down very quickly: they belong to the household class and have a small working resource. Grinding a log house is necessary both inside and outside, the area is considerable, so that the resource household tool barely enough for one or two walls. Therefore, when choosing, it is advisable for you to find either an inexpensive professional or semi-professional model. They are usually in the middle price range.

The power of the grinder is approximately 700-1000 watts. If you wish, you can take a more powerful one, but this is more than enough for woodworking. More powerful ones are harder to work: they themselves weigh a lot, and it will be more difficult to manage them. And every awkward movement is a hole on the log, which will then have to be leveled.

The most convenient discs are 125 mm, and choose a model for them. But these are just recommendations. You can work both large and small. Who is used to it.

The idle speed is 10,000-12,000 rpm. Moreover, it is very desirable that the tool has speed control, and better - smooth.

Pay attention to where the air intake is coming from. In order for the grinder to clog less and to work longer when working, the fence should be at the back (not on the sides). And also, it is important that the handles are comfortable, and the machine itself is not heavy. Therefore, try on each one, hold it in your hands. Pay attention to the length of the cord - the longer, the more freedom of action it gives.

For the convenience of work, it is better to have two cars. The fact is that the processing takes place at least twice: first, the layer is removed with an abrasive with a large grain, then it is sanded with a fine one. In order not to constantly change the attachments and not to overheat the instrument, it is more convenient to have two machines. One will not be enough for you all the same. And so the work goes faster, and the tool works normally - it does not overheat.

There is one more subtlety: for work it is better to use not a rubber, but a plastic nozzle (on which the abrasive is attached). Plastic, although thinner, lasts longer. If you accidentally touch the wood with the rubber pad, a black mark will be left on the wood. This won't happen with plastic.

Grinding discs

For the initial coarse sanding, use 40-60 grit flap discs. You can simply use an abrasive with the same grain. It is as convenient for anyone. The consumption of discs is large: one per 3-5 meters of the log. Maybe more and less: it depends on which layer you need to remove and on how even the log was before processing. If it was rounded - the consumption is less, if from under the planer - more. But on these disks it is better not to save money, as soon as it is greasy - change: the work will go faster, and the grinder will work with less load.

The consumption of fine sanding discs depends on how thoroughly you sand the surface the first time. It is better to take this fine abrasive with Velcro - it changes faster. Here the grain size is 100-120.

In addition to discs, you will need to buy pillows for nozzles. On the one hand, they are covered with a sticky compound, to which abrasive discs are then attached. These pillows are erased on the sides, and the adhesive side also ceases to "work". So this consumable will come in handy too.

Round log grinding

Since the surface in such a log house is already flat, the use of a grinder with a lack of experience will only lead to the appearance of grooves and pits - traces of too strong pressure. Then they will have to be compared for a long time with smaller grain. Therefore, for processing rounded logs, eccentric grinders are more often used. They are less productive, but if you press too hard, the sanding disc is blocked. This allows, even in the absence of experience, to make the surface even and smooth.

The power of these machines is more modest - 200-300 W, the number of revolutions is about the same 10,000 - 12,000 rpm. Many models have a dust collector. This is a big plus when working indoors, but it also shows up in the price. The selection principle is the same: good quality, semi-professional or professional model that fits comfortably in the hand. For polishing a log house, it is also advisable to have two machines: put on one discs with a grain of 30-60 to remove the darkened layer, on the second, install a fine grain of 100-120 to smooth the surface and remove raised wood pile.

Log grinding in grooves and corners

Regardless of which log the frame is made of, the grooves are grinded with grinders. Moreover, the nozzle is taken of a smaller size than the disc used (for example, for a nozzle diameter of 115 mm, the abrasive is set at 125). If the disc and bit are the same size, the tool may jam in the groove during operation. At the same time, the grinder will be pulled out of the hands, which can lead to injury.

If the disk is larger, then you can work safely. Although it wears out quickly around the edges, you can work this way without fear of injury.

The most problematic for processing are the corners of a log house. The only reliable method of processing them is with chisels. With this tool, the top thin layer of wood is removed. This can be done before stripping the entire log or after. Not so important.

Processing the ends of logs

The ends of the logs are sanded with a grinder with an abrasive wheel made of 40 grain. By adjusting the speed, you select the speed at which the tool is easy to control. It is unrealistic to achieve perfect smoothness here, and it is not necessary, therefore, cleaning with fine grain is not done. During further processing with primers, varnishes or other compounds, the ends are given increased attention - they absorb better, therefore you have to lubricate more abundantly.

Log processing inside the house

All actions are identical. When grinding a log house from a planed log, if the wall inside will not be sheathed with anything, another passage will be added for fine finishing: Eccentric sander with 120 abrasive disc. This will achieve a perfectly flat surface.

How to sand timber walls

The tools are used the same as when processing logs. A specific choice can only be made by assessing how deep you need to remove the top layer of wood.

If or glued, most likely, you do not need to level anything. Only remove the upper darkened layer, if any. In this case, with a sufficient level of proficiency with a grinder, you can work with it. If experience is not enough, work with a grinding eccentric machine... It takes longer, but the result is guaranteed, at least good.

If the walls are made of ordinary timber, then a lot will have to be leveled. Here you cannot do without a grinder. Moreover, in some places it will be necessary to remove a couple of millimeters of excess - imperfect geometry and lead to the fact that the difference is quite significant.

I found a video clip about a very interesting victorious grinding disc, which, it seems, alone can easily cope with rough grinding and easily remove excess thickness.

When is the best time to grind

There are a lot of answers to this question. Traditionally, the frame is polished after at least the main shrinkage has passed. During this time, the log dries up, and it is easier to work with it. It is extremely difficult to remove even a thin layer from raw wood. If you need to equalize, then it will take a lot of time, money for disks and effort.

On the other hand, if you have a log house made of dried timber and logs, then you can grind and process it right away. In this case, putting the log house under the roof, it is sanded, immediately and left to shrink in this form. This is done infrequently, although no one forbids it. Usually they act according to the usual scheme.

Order and organization of work

Since a minimum of time should pass between the grinding of logs or timber and processing, it is necessary to process along the crown. You can start from above or from below - there is no difference, but they grind one wall completely, then go over to the other. It is possible to cover with impregnations and primers immediately after finishing the treatment of one wall, having previously removed the dust.

Questions often arise as to what to do if the wood has blue discoloration or other dark spots... These are traces of the activity of fungi. They do not affect the quality and safety in any way, but appearance spoil pretty well.

If used for finishing if you want light transparent paints, you will have to fight with the color. There are special ones for this. In this case, the procedure is as follows:

• bleach wood;
• carry out rough grinding;
• if there are traces of blackness, bleach again;
• finishing grinding.

Then comes the treatment with fire retardants, primers and finishing compounds.

This video presents the experience of a man who polished a log house himself. He talks about some interesting details, so take 20 minutes.

Grinding increases the lifespan of the house and maintains the attractive appearance of the building for a long time. Some people think that such processing is not necessary for rounded and chopped logs, since they already look aesthetically pleasing. However, experts in the construction of a wooden house and a bathhouse recommend that sanding the walls is mandatory, because this gives additional protection to the wood.

Why do you need grinding

Grinding a log house prevents wood from rotting, increases resistance to moisture and insects. It removes defects and irregularities from the surface of the walls of a wooden house, protects the wood from mold and mildew. Please note that unpolished logs, even after treatment with antiseptics and paints and varnishes over time, they still darken and lose their original appearance. Grinding will help avoid this problem.

Benefits of grinding

• Grinding of rounded logs preserves the natural, even color of the wood. No sanding over time wooden walls darken due to exposure to sunlight;
• After grinding, the surface of the logs becomes smooth and even;
• The procedure removes the top layer, where fungus and mold have already accumulated;
• Sanding before wood impregnation antiseptic agents promotes uniform distribution of the product over the surface without layers and stains;
• Grinding removes dirt from the surface of the walls, which has accumulated during the transportation and installation of the log house;
• The procedure improves the penetration of paints and varnishes protective equipment in wood, reduces the amount of consumables;
• Grinding the log house increases the resistance of the tree to moisture and insects.

Log polishing is a laborious process that is best left to professionals. After all, the appearance of the walls and the service life of a wooden house depend on the quality of the work. Grinding a log house with your own hands will cause a lot of trouble, since you need to carefully follow the rules and strictly follow the sequence of work. In addition, dust is generated during the sanding process, which can enter the eyes, nose and Airways... Therefore, in work, they must use special means protection!

Required tools

The right tool is the key to high-quality grinding. For easy and fast work, choose a tool that is not too heavy and with high power. Too heavy weight will reduce productivity by 2-3 times, and low power will increase the working time!

Grinding the walls and ends of a house or bath is performed using a grinder, grinder and special discs. A standard belt sander will not work for a semicircular round log. Such a tool is used to process a flat surface. It is suitable for a bathhouse or a house made of timber.

For a house made of rounded logs, it is better to use a grinder with attachments from a sanding disc with sandpaper in the shape of petals. Choose a lightweight grinder with a power of 850 watts. It is better to take a tool of a well-known and proven brand. Preview photos on websites, collect reviews on forums and among friends. Do not take the first tool that comes across, as it may turn out to be of poor quality and simply fall apart after two or three days of work.

It is important to choose the right attachments. For external sanding of rough wall parts, choose disc # 80. Circle no. 120 is suitable for external machining of smoother and softer areas. Grinding the ends begins with the circle # 30, and the nozzle # 60 is used to remove the old paintwork. Tools with larger grain attachments are used for primary processing, smaller ones for final processing.

Be prepared to change attachments frequently. The abrasive is erased during operation, clogged with resin and wood dust. To extend the service life of the attachment, the tool is treated with a metal brush with white spirit. However, even after cleaning, the speed and productivity of the work will still decrease.

How to grind logs correctly - instructions

After you have selected the tool, you can proceed to grinding. Remember that the frame is sanded only after the logs have completely shrunk! As a rule, this takes 6-12 months, depending on the design of the wooden house or bathhouse and the soil of the land plot. Grinding is performed before the main finishing and installation of windows, doors, ceilings. In addition, only dry materials can be sanded, as damp wood will pick up.

Before starting work, be sure to wear a protective mask, goggles or respirator to protect your eyes, mouth and nose from wood dust! Now let's take a closer look at how to grind logs better and more efficiently:

• Examine the walls and remove any loose pieces. They will slow you down and can ruin the tool. Treat such places adhesive composition and leave to dry for a day;
• Check the caulk. If cracks appear, you will need to re-caulk the walls;
• From logs conifers first remove the resin and only then proceed to the main stage of work;
• The walls are sanded first with large nozzles, and then with small ones. It is better to start grinding rounded logs with nozzle No. 100, and for secondary processing, use No. 125;

• Do not press hard on the surface and do not rotate too much. In the first case, it is possible to “burn” the wood, and in the second, irregularities and furrows will remain.
• Pay particular attention to the processing of the ends, as they are most susceptible to negative impact moisture, insects and other factors;
• Start processing the ends with nozzle # 35 and gradually move on to 120;
• Grinding corners and hard-to-reach places is best done with a chisel or a block with sanding paper;
• After sanding, carefully remove dust from inside and outside the house or bath;
• After sanding, you need to treat the walls with protective compounds. For this, antiseptics and antiperenes are used. Choose separate special products for the ends! After the surface is dry, painting with decorative paints and varnishes follows.

In a new, newly built house, it is enough to perform a surface sanding for painting. From the old walls, you first need to remove old layer paint and varnish, and, if necessary, bleach the logs. After sanding, painting of the interior and external walls... When sanding and processing the wood correctly, the surface of the walls will be smooth and pleasant to the touch.

Now you know how to avoid mistakes when grinding and get high-quality, even and beautiful logs. In any case, sanding requires certain knowledge and skills, so it is better to turn to professionals. The company "MariSrub" performs a full range of works on the processing of walls in a wooden house.

An obligatory procedure that must be performed after the installation of the log house is the grinding of the logs. These works are preparatory stage for finishing walls and help to level the surface of the tree, remove defects, mold and putrefactive formations from it. The treatment improves the adhesion of walls with antiseptic and coloring compounds, and also helps to reduce the consumption of the latter. When applying solutions to an unprepared plane, the impregnation of wood is carried out poorly and unevenly.

In addition, during the manufacture of rounded logs, due to overheating of the cutting edges and violation of the cutting technology, glazed areas can form on the surface of the tree. Such places are poorly impregnated with protective compounds, therefore, subsequently in to a greater extent subject to deterioration.

When sanding, the defective layer is removed and the natural properties of the wood are restored. It is advisable to start grinding the log house immediately after the completion of the main construction works without waiting for the final shrinkage and shrinkage of the tree, since smooth, even logs better resist the impact environment and the penetration of harmful insects.

Required tools

Log polishing can be carried out with the help of a specialized organization or independently. The process consists of several simple operations, the execution of which, however, requires a certain skill and accuracy. The set of mandatory tools used by work performers is as follows:

• eccentric sander;
• grinder with emery nozzles;
• belt type grinding machine;
• chisel;
• individual protection means.

The belt sander provides maximum performance, but in the absence of experience with this tool, there is a high probability of marriage. The eccentric machine allows you to grind logs by leveling the pressing force, which prevents the formation of accidental cavities and unevenness. The grinder is used for grinding grooves between logs, and hard-to-reach places corner joints are processed manually with a 20 mm wide chisel.

Execution of works

Grinding a log house is a laborious process, and its technology has various variations... Part experienced craftsmen believes that in order to polish the blockhouse, you need to wait until the end of the shrinkage, while others clean up as the walls are being erected in order to avoid damage to them. Quality must be taken into account to make the right decision building material... Factory-applied rounded log protective coating can withstand 1-2 years without noticeable damage, but after this time it will take much more effort to process it.

Basic work on the facade and inner surface the walls of the log house are recommended to be performed using an eccentric grinder. Depending on the number of builders, the common plane must be divided into sections on the basis that the performer polishes from 6 to 8 square meters in one day. It should be borne in mind that the area should not remain unpainted for more than 3-4 days, as the material will darken and will have to be cleaned again.

A plastic flat nozzle is installed on the grinder. Rubber options are not suitable for round wooden surfaces, as they quickly deteriorate. The work is performed in two passes:

1. First, it is necessary to grind the rounded log with coarse sandpaper (no. 40). With the help of this abrasive, the top layer of wood is removed, all defects, fungus and mold damage are eliminated;

2. the final cleaning is carried out with fine-grain emery (No. 100). In this case, the alignment occurs and the wood pile raised during the initial grinding is removed. The surface should be smooth and pleasant to the touch.

After finishing the grinding of the main surface of the site, it is necessary to rework the grooves and corner joints of the log house. You can grind the grooves between the logs with a grinder with a plastic attachment. For safety reasons, its diameter should be slightly smaller. sandpaper... Otherwise, there is a danger of injury when the attachment is jammed between the logs and the grinder is pulled out of the hands. Corner joints of log structures can only be cleaned manually using a chisel. The ends of the logs are sanded with a grinder or a belt-type machine.

The most common mistake made when processing a wooden cottage or grinding a bath from a log with your own hands is the wrong choice of tool, which is associated with a desire to speed up the routine process. Too powerful grinder, operating at high speeds, easily damages the structure. If you press the handle awkwardly or change the angle of inclination of the nozzle, a deep groove will remain on the surface, which cannot be removed. Practice shows that the optimal power of the grinder should be 700-800 watts.

Grinding a house from a rounded log involves the formation of a large amount of dust, so work must be done with personal protective equipment. It is recommended to use transparent glasses with side curtains, a respirator mask, a hat and gloves. Shoes must be comfortable and durable. You can grind sections of walls at a height using professional inventory scaffolding or high-quality scaffolds made on site.

Antiseptic application

To protect against fungus, prevent the development of mold and damage to wood by insects, the rounded log must be treated with antiseptics. They increase the durability of wooden building structures and help to reduce the cost of repairing them during the further operation of the log house. In order to choose the right solution, take into account the following:

1. cost qualitative composition quite high, but since we are talking about long-term investments, you cannot save on this;

2. you should buy an antiseptic in specialized hardware stores or supermarkets, as this reduces the risk of buying a low-quality product (the latter, in addition to its uselessness, may also be toxic);

3. when buying a product yourself, you must make sure of the guarantee of protection against all types of biological effects;

4. the composition for the outer walls of the building should not be washed out of the pores of the wood by atmospheric precipitation;

5. to preserve the protective properties of the logs after impregnation with an antiseptic, they must have a finishing coating.

The primary impregnation is carried out immediately after the logs have been polished. In this condition wooden structures can last for about a year. If shrinkage continues, after this period, an intermediate impregnation of the log house with an antiseptic is performed. Final processing and finishing coat are carried out after the wood has completely dried and the geometric parameters of the building have been stabilized.

The impregnation process can be carried out manually with a brush or mechanically using sprayers operating under pressure. The first method is more laborious, but it allows you to achieve best result... The main quality criterion is covering the entire area of ​​the log walls with an antiseptic in two layers. For the convenience of tracking missed sections in protective compound a coloring pigment is added.

The cost of polishing a log house by specialized organizations depends on the technical condition of the logs, the time of standing of the structures, as well as the region of construction of the cottage. Grind on average 1 square meter the walls of a log house cost 200-300 rubles, and in Moscow and the region the price is the lowest due to the great competition among the performers.

When the work on polishing a log house is coming, the first question that arises before the master is: which tool to choose for sanding a wooden surface. If in the past for these purposes a chisel and sandpaper were mainly used, today the choice of different devices is huge. There are many different types of wood sanders available, but they are all quite expensive. But the angle grinder, or more simply, the grinder, is a versatile tool that is available in almost every home and is great for grinding a wooden house. However, polishing a log house with a grinder has many nuances that need to be discussed in more detail.

Grinding wood with a grinder is the most common and affordable way grinding a wooden house. Usually angle grinder is used for polishing a log house made of planed logs. With the help of a grinder, it is also convenient to grind the grooves and ends of the logs. Actually, with this tool, if you have the skills to work, you can process any lumber. But in order for the work to go not to a burden, but to joy, you must choose the right grinder and attachments for it, as well as know and follow the rules for working with this tool.

Model selection

There are both household and professional models that differ in power and performance. You should not buy the cheapest grinder, its power is unlikely to be enough for grinding the entire log house. Expensive professional models are also not the best choice for home use... They operate at high speeds, are distinguished by considerable weight and power. A layman, not the name of the skills to work with such a tool, can simply spoil the surface to be sanded, leaving dents on it.

It is best to opt for:

• semi-professional model with a capacity of 800 to 1000 watts. This will be enough to polish the frame.
• it is advisable to buy a tool not with a side, but with a rear air intake, so it will be less clogged with dust.
• you should also pay attention to the length of the cable. Too short a cord is inconvenient to work with.

Grinder attachments

For work, you will have to stock up on nozzles on which the abrasive is fixed. There are two types of attachments:

1. Rubber
2. Plastic.

It is more convenient to work with plastic attachments, although they are thinner than rubber ones, they last longer. Rubber nozzles quickly deteriorate, and besides, if a rubber nozzle accidentally touches wood, it will leave an ugly black mark on the surface of the wood, which is very problematic to remove.

For grinding, use conventional or flap grinding wheels. Log polishing is a very dusty job. A lot of dust is released, which, together with the wood resin, clogs into the disc, the abrasive is quickly erased, so the grinding wheels quickly become unusable.

One disc with rough processing is enough for about 3-5 meters of a log, then it has to be changed. Consumption depends on the condition of the wood and the type of surface. How many disks are needed for fine grinding depends on how carefully the initial processing was carried out.

More long term operation has an alphadisk, which is a metal disk, on the body of which a victorious crumb is soldered. Grinding a bar with an alpha disc allows you to significantly save on consumables... A disc clogged with sawdust can simply be cleaned with a metal brush and calmly continue to work.

Deresinization of the surface

Conifers are known to contain large amounts of natural resins. On the one hand, this circumstance is an advantage, since the resinousness protects the tree from rotting and the formation of mold. On the other hand, resin interferes with the good adhesion of paint to wood, and when sanding, it smears over the surface and spoils the appearance of the wood. Therefore, before processing the needles with a grinder, it is necessary to remove excess resin.

How to remove tar from a log before sanding? Solvents are suitable for this: acetone, white spirit, turpentine, refined gasoline. You just need to apply the selected product on a wooden surface, and rinse off the remains with warm water.

The grinder is the main tool used for processing a block of chopped logs, the surface of which contains remnants of bark, knots, cracks and other defects.

1. For primary rough processing use:

• special grinding and polishing wheels;
• wire brushes;
• universal bases, to which replaceable coarse-grain emery nozzles No. 30-60 are attached.

The grinder with these attachments does an excellent job with uneven surface logs manual felling... As a result of primary processing, all more or less large defects and protruding parts are removed from the surface.

1. For stripping logs with old paintwork Bowl stripping bits with twisted wires work best.
2. The next stage after roughing is fine sanding, the purpose of which is to completely level the base and prepare the surface for painting or varnishing. It is carried out by grinding wheels with fine-grained nozzles No. 80-120.
3. If polishing of logs is envisaged, this operation is best done using cloth nozzles.

It is not recommended to grind over the entire area at once. It is advisable to process the surface in parts, dividing the wall into certain zones. In this case, the grinding performance will be higher than when processing large areas.

Grinding of rounded logs and beams

Unlike hand-cut logs, rounded logs and beams have a smooth surface, which causes certain difficulties when processing them with a grinder. One awkward movement - and deep grooves and grooves will appear on the surface of a bar or a rounded log, which will remain there forever.

Working as a grinder is not for beginners, it requires certain skills. LBM is a high-speed machine and can damage the surface if mishandled. Do not press the tool strongly against the area to be treated. Grinding should be done in smooth circular motions, holding the grinder at an angle of 45 degrees. Grinding and polishing the timber should be done at low speeds. High revolutions can lead to thermal destruction of the top layer of the wood.

Processing grooves and ends of logs

Grinding the grooves of the logs is always done with a grinder. The grooves are processed with a nozzle of a smaller size than the disc. If the attachment and disc are the same size, it can cause the clipper to jam.

For processing the ends use grinding wheel with sandpaper size 40. Usually in these places they are limited to coarse and medium processing, without grinding the ends to perfect smoothness. Immediately after grinding, the ends are treated with protective impregnations and antiseptics.

Grinding errors with a grinder

The grinder is the most convenient and affordable tool for grinding, but in unprofessional hands, it turns into a rather dangerous device, which, if mishandled, can cause many problems. Home craftsmen who do not have the skills to use the corner grinder, very often make mistakes, which are the main reason for poor quality grinding.

A typical mistake is working with a grinder at high speeds. It is often difficult for inexperienced craftsmen to choose the optimal disk rotation speed. As a result, the tool literally "burns" the wood at high speed, damaging it face layer... In addition, high RPMs cause wood dust to clog the abrasive quickly, which will shorten the life of the nozzle.

Another common mistake is pressing firmly on the appliance while sanding. This is the most common reason formation of dents and grooves on the body of a log and a bar, which spoil the appearance of the wood. It is not so easy to get rid of these marks; you will have to re-grind, which is not always effective.