The desire to reduce the cost of heating residential or utility rooms forces their owners to look for the least expensive options. At the same time, every zealous owner strives to use the most affordable and cheapest fuel, achieving maximum heat transfer when burning it. That is why the deterioration of the situation on the energy market has led to the emergence of many interesting and efficient heating devices available for repetition at home. One such installation is a liquid fuel oven. Its main advantage is that you don't have to use expensive diesel fuel for heating - homemade unit works great on used engine oil, which you can buy for a penny at the nearest car service. The surge of interest in homemade stove designs usually increases with the onset of cold weather. We recommend not to wait for frost and start making a furnace with your own hands, working on testing, right now.

Features of the device and use of liquid fuel stoves. Advantages and disadvantages of units

The working furnace is a compact and easy-to-manufacture heating device

Drained engine oil is a multicomponent substance contaminated with the combustion products of automobile fuel. It must be said that mining burns very badly, but the volatile components that are released when it is heated, ignite easily and, during oxidation with air oxygen, release heat in large quantities. I must say that the features of the combustion of used engine oils in most cases determine the existing types of heating units:

• stoves with drip feed of liquid fuel;
• models using pressurization and fuel atomization;
• two-chamber units of the pyrolysis type.

In addition, a distinction is made between stoves with air and water heat exchangers, which makes it possible to install equipment of this type both in technical and in residential premises. The scope of application of stoves using waste engine oil or automobile oil as fuel is extremely wide:

• workshops and garages;
• greenhouses;
• vegetable stores;
• production facilities and warehouses;
• outbuildings;
• residential buildings (subject to the placement of heating equipment in the annex).

The availability of free fuel predetermines the popularity of used engine oil stoves among the owners of car repair shops and service stations.

Of course, the installation of such stoves is most advisable to carry out in car services and at enterprises with their own fleet, which will not only allow the disposal of unsafe flammable liquid, but also save on heating.

Boilers and stoves with drip feed of combustible oil

Open fired and drip fed models are the simplest and most affordable home constructions. In addition, this method of delivering liquid fuel to working area makes it possible to transfer any solid fuel furnace or boiler for testing.

Structurally, the drip-fed unit consists of a tank for oil, a hose for transporting fuel, locking and control valves, an evaporator and a nozzle. Such an oven works simply. Before ignition, the oil supply is opened, which flows by gravity from the tank and drips onto the surface of the evaporator. The fuel is ignited with a rag dipped in kerosene or solarium. Exit to the operating mode occurs only after the working bowl warms up to 350–400 ° С. In this case, the incoming liquid instantly passes into the gas phase and burns out at a high temperature. To increase the productivity of the furnaces, they are equipped with duct fans. It is possible to ensure the completeness of the combustion of the mining due to the afterburning of combustion products in the high-temperature zone with additional air supply.

Scheme of operation of stoves with drip feed of liquid fuel

To the benefits open way combustion includes simplicity of design and the ability to adapt to the already installed heating equipment. As for the disadvantages, they are quite weighty:

• low efficiency of installations;
• difficulty with use at low temperatures due to deterioration of fuel fluidity;
• high content harmful substances in flue gases;
• difficulty in setting up the exact fuel supply;
• rapid formation of carbon deposits on the chimney.

Despite the cons, separate structures drip-fed stoves are steadily popular with home craftsmen, especially when it comes to converting solid fuel boilers to work with liquid fuel. One of such installations, which is called an oven with flaming bowl, you can see in the diagram.

Heating units with burners

The use of nozzles for burning machine oil makes it possible to increase the efficiency of the units, and, accordingly, their thermal power. The principle of operation of the devices is borrowed from blowtorches and kerogaz, which were widely used in the 50-70s of the last century for cooking. It consists in heating the liquid fuel to the evaporation temperature and burning it in a separate chamber with forced or atmospheric air supply. In this case, part of the heat released during the combustion of oil, diesel fuel or kerosene is used to heat the next portion of fuel.

Since working off from a car service most often comes in the form of a mixture of oils with different viscosities, it should be heated and filtered before being fed to the nozzle. Schemes of factory and homemade designs using both types of air supply are presented below.

Diagram of a burner suitable for making by hand

The Babington burner has an interesting design, which does not require preliminary oil preparation. In it, mining flows down in a thin layer over a rounded bowl. A point hole is made in the center of the sphere, to which air is supplied under pressure. The principle of operation is that the air flow captures the smallest particles of oil from the surface. The dispersion that forms at the outlet is highly flammable and burns with a temperature of more than 1000 ° C.

The principle of operation of the Babington burner

Note that the most advanced burners provide for multi-stage fuel combustion, which includes the phases of decomposition, combustion and afterburning of products. chemical reactions directly in the torch.

The advantages of burner stoves include:

• Efficiency more than 90%, unattainable for other units under development;
• high-temperature flame allows to increase the power of heating installations;
• combustion of mining at 1000 ° C and more makes it possible to obtain exhaust with a minimum content of harmful impurities;
• versatility - the burner can be installed on any type of heating unit.

The cons of spraying devices can be written:

• complicated design;
• the need to use injection equipment;
• high requirements for the purity of fuel, which force pre-filter the drained engine oil;
• the need for a liquid fuel heating device.

Note that most of the noted disadvantages relate to the most high-tech burners. To simple homemade devices lower requirements are imposed, however, at the same time, other disadvantages appear - the appearance of an odor of unburned fuel, its splashing during ignition, a decrease in performance, etc.

Heaters with multiple chambers

In two-volume structures, the processes of evaporation and combustion of mines take place in different chambers. Thanks to this, it is possible to achieve a high temperature and complete combustion of the fuel. Besides, characteristic feature furnaces of this type have a very clean exhaust - there are practically no harmful chemical compounds in the flue gases.

Structurally, the unit consists of two vertically installed containers, interconnected by means of a perforated pipe of increased diameter (injector). The lower chamber is equipped with an oil filling hole. Thanks to the installed rotary-type damper, this opening also serves as a metering device for the primary air entering the combustion chamber.

The double-volume heater consists of only a few parts

Despite the simple design, the efficiency of waste oil combustion is at the level of the best industrial samples. Since this is laid down by the very principle of operation of the furnace, we will consider the features of its operation in more detail.

The oil poured into the lower chamber is ignited with an oiled rag. After the surface layer of the mining ignites, the air flow is reduced, obtaining a stable combustion. Volatile hydrocarbons evaporating from the surface are burned in a vertical chamber with a high temperature, which is caused by the inflow of air through the perforation of the injector. The combustion rate in the upper chamber is reduced by a forced method, which is necessary for a more complete oxidation of the reaction products with nitrogen compounds. In this zone, the so-called afterburning of the released gases occurs, due to which they decompose into safe compounds. The chimney embedded in the upper module provides the required draft and removes the residual gases outside.

Since the heat exchanger of a double-volume furnace is the upper chamber, it is often equipped with a jacket for forced convection or a jacket for supplying a heat transfer fluid.

I must say that when deciding on a design for making a stove in a garage, workshop or greenhouse, they most often stop at a two-volume unit. It has the advantages of all the furnaces described above, and is practically devoid of disadvantages, especially when it comes to using a heater in non-residential premises... With regard to the manufacture of a boiler to provide heat country house, it is better to use one of the devices built according to the scheme with a flame bowl.

Diagram of a potbelly stove with a fiery bowl

Making a two-volume potbelly stove for mining

The furnace we offer for manufacture consists of two round modules with a diameter of 350-400 mm, which are connected to each other using a piece of metal pipe with a diameter of at least 4 inches and a length of 400-450 mm. The lateral surface of the vertical chamber is covered with perforations in the form of holes 8–10 mm in diameter, made in a checkerboard pattern. Inner space the upper module is divided by a partition, into which the burning gases strike, due to which their active mixing and a drop in the burning rate necessary for the completion of the pyrolysis processes occur. The chimney is cut into the space of the upper container, which is located behind the partition. Its height must be at least 4 m, and a thick steel pipe must be used at the connection point, otherwise the smoke channel may burn out. At a height of 1 m from the surface of the furnace, it is allowed to build up the chimney with a galvanized, tin or ceramic pipe.

The design of the liquid fuel unit

The horizontal section of the chimney installed at the outlet of the upper module will serve as an additional heat exchanger, therefore, if possible, it is made 0.5–0.8 m in size. The flue gases have a sufficiently high heat capacity, which will be taken by convection, and not escaped into the atmosphere.

Photo gallery: drawings and diagrams

The presented diagrams and drawings of the described design will help you understand the manufacturing features and will allow you to determine the amount of work and the amount of material. Note that there is no need to accurately copy all dimensions - it is enough to adhere to the basic proportions and precisely observe the relative position of the parts.

Diagram of a two-volume furnace with the main dimensions of parts and assemblies

What you need to make a stove that runs on liquid fuel

As always, getting started, you need to prepare the materials necessary for the construction of the furnace. Having at hand full set blanks, you don't have to waste time looking for the right part. This will make it possible to build a two-volume heating device in just one day. Here's what you need for this:

• sheet steel 6 mm thick;
• metal sheet 4 mm thick;
• thick steel pipe (wall thickness at least 4mm) - 1.5 m;
• galvanized chimney pipe - 4 m;
• steel corners (shelf 40–50 mm) or profile pipe 40 × 20 mm, length 8–1 m.

You also need to prepare locksmith tools in advance. When everything you need is at hand, work goes much faster. Here is a list of the essentials:

• electric drill;
• drills for work on metal Ø6 mm and Ø9 mm;
• angle grinder (in other words "grinder");
• cutting discs for metal;
• roughing circle;
• welding machine;
• electrodes Ø3–4 mm;
• autogen.

Note that the welding seams of the unit must ensure its complete tightness - this is necessary condition safety of construction. If you are not confident in yourself as a welder, then it is better to entrust this part of the work to a professional.

What to do before starting to assemble the stove. Choosing a location

At the preparatory stage, they begin cutting the parts of the furnace according to a previously prepared drawing. This is best done with a laser or plasma cutting that can be found in metalworking enterprises. If this is not possible, then you can get by with a simple gas cutter. Please note that the blanks of the cylindrical modules are cut from rolled metal 4 mm thick, while the bottom and top parts must be made of thicker steel with a thickness of 6 mm.

In case of emergency, you can also use an angle grinder, only in this case it will take a long time to process the edges of the parts using a grinding disc or an emery wheel.

When choosing a site for installing a stove, it is necessary to be guided not only by practicality issues, but also by safety standards. It should not be forgotten that the walls of the convection device glow red hot during operation, so the place for its installation must meet several requirements:

• there must be at least 0.5 m of free space around the oven;
• the room must be equipped with supply and exhaust ventilation;
• the installation site of the unit must be away from areas with intense movement of air masses (wind, draft, operating fan, etc.);
• above heating device shelves and niches should not be placed;
• the presence of flammable objects and fuels and lubricants near the potbelly stove is excluded.

In addition, the working furnace is installed in such a way that installation is not difficult. chimney, and the chimney itself provided safe operation heating equipment.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a stove for heating

1. Prepared metal strips with a thickness of 4 mm, from which the side walls of the modules and the distance spacer of the lower container will be made, are bent into rings. Of course, it is better to use a professional bending machine for this, but you can also use a suitable template. After that, the strips are welded at the junction with a continuous seam. For the manufacture of a furnace for working out with a diameter of 30 mm, it is convenient to use a household gas bottle by cutting off two sectors 80–100 mm high from it.

   

   Parts prepared for assembly

2. The bottom is welded to the lower module, which acts as a combustion chamber and oil reservoir.

   

   When installing the bottom, both the outer and interior containers

3. The upper container is made in a similar way, using a metal strip for the side wall with an opening for the chimney.

   

   Building the top module

4. In addition, a 70 mm wide metal partition is installed inside the module. Dividing the circle into three equal parts, it is mounted on the border of the third that is on the side of the chimney.

   

   Installation of a partition

5. In the doorway smoke channel weld on a pipe 130 mm long, cut from a steel pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. In order for the chimney to enter it, the pipe section is pre-cut across, and the cut site is expanded by 3-4 mm. A piece of steel wire is installed in the resulting gap, after which the connection is welded from the outside with a continuous seam.
   

   A chimney consisting of several parts is much easier to install. In addition, sooner or later it will have to be cleaned. This is where all the advantages of a collapsible design come in handy.

6. From a steel angle or shaped pipe cut off four workpieces 20–25 cm long. They are welded to the lower plane of the oil tank. They are needed as legs for the safe installation of the heater.
7. After that, a spacer is installed inside the lower module, which will hold the cover with the filling hole. The main thing is to ensure a tight fit of all parts of the fuel tank. Of course, it can be made completely welded, however, sooner or later the lower module will have to be cleaned of soot, and it will be much easier to do this by disassembling the potbelly stove into parts.
8. An injector pipe is made, for which purpose, using an electric drill, 6 rows of holes are drilled in it, shifting each of them relative to the previous one in order to obtain a staggered order of perforation.
9. A sliding flap is installed on the oil filling hole, which works in the same way as peephole with a rotating shutter.
10. The upper module of the furnace is welded to the lid of the oil tank by means of a perforated pipe installed between them. In this case, it is important to orient the parts not in a mirror image, but with a shift of the upper container by 180 °.

    

    The correct operation of the furnace depends on the accuracy of the assembly.

    The installation of the burner pipe is carried out on a flat horizontal surface, using a level. Remember: even a slight deviation from the vertical position will lead to the fact that some of the gases begin to go outside, the stove will smoke and will not be able to reach the optimal operating mode.

11. A horizontal arm and a vertical elbow are welded from a steel pipe, which are attached to the outlet pipe. After installing the unit, a chimney is installed in place, with a height of at least 4 m.

    

    View finished product... If desired, the design can be modified with an additional container for working off as a communicating vessel

To check the furnace operability, 0.5–1 l of waste oil is poured into the lower tank, the fuel is ignited, and the unit is tested for operability and tightness.

Modernization of liquid fuel heaters

The design of a two-volume oven described above is good for use in garages, greenhouses, workshops and buildings for household purposes, but by no means in houses and dachas. In order for the unit to comply with the convenience and safety requirements for heating equipment in residential premises, it must be modified. The design change is primarily necessary for the installation of the stove in the annex. Most often, modernization concerns the transfer of a heater from the category of convection to the class of water heating. To do this, the upper module of the furnace is equipped with an external water jacket or a built-in heat exchanger, through which the coolant is passed from the heating system of a country house or summer cottage. Of course, it is better to provide for the possibility of connecting the water circuit at the design stage, but you can also modify it already existing structure... All that is needed for this is the same sheet steel and steel pipes with a diameter of 3 / 4˝-1˝. The efficiency of heating the liquid heat agent will increase if not only the upper heat exchanger of the furnace is equipped with an external casing, but also the horizontal section of the chimney. Of course, before this, you must ensure its complete tightness.

Modification of the heating unit to supply heat to several rooms requires the installation of a powerful duct fan

Furnaces modified in this way must not be operated without a fan or circulation pump... Failure to comply with this requirement can lead to boiling of the coolant, depressurization or warping of the outer casing.

Features of ignition and maintenance of furnaces. Safe operation rules

Before firing up the furnace, inspect the lower container for the presence of water in it. If necessary, moisture is removed, after which 1-2 liters of waste are poured into the module through the filling opening. engine oil... Fuel is ignited through the same hole using a steel wire wick and oiled rags. After the oil has ignited (usually it takes from three to five minutes), the air supply hole is closed, leaving a gap of 1–2 cm wide. The optimal adjustment is the state of the unit on the verge of liquid fuel boiling. In this case, intensive evaporation of the combustible substance is observed, due to which the furnace operates at maximum power.

Periodically, the bottom of the oil tank, the burner pipe and the chimney are cleaned of combustion products, for which a long poker and various scrapers are used. The upper part of the structure is simply tapped to remove the soot. The unit is serviced after complete burnout of fuel from the lower tank.

It should be remembered that an oil stove, like other heating equipment with an open flame, is a fire hazardous structure. During the operation of a liquid-fuel stove, you should adhere to the rules of safe operation:

1. Preparing the oven for operation must necessarily include checking the presence of traction. For this, a lighted match is brought to one of the holes of the burner. If its flame deviates inward, then you can proceed to ignition. Otherwise, it will be necessary to clean the ducts of the unit and the chimney to ensure a normal vacuum.
2. It is forbidden to shake the working off before refueling. Water or antifreeze that gets into the oil leads to splashing of fuel through the burner injection holes.
3. The fuel level should be no more than ¾ of the height of the primary chamber. It is better to fill the oven beforehand. This will allow the oil to settle.
4. It is prohibited to use gasoline, thinners and other flammable liquids for ignition. Better to use diesel fuel or kerosene, which moisten paper or rags.
5. Any oil spilled near the heater must be immediately removed from the floor.
6. It is strictly forbidden to use water to reduce heat or stop oil burning.

Do not forget about fire extinguishing means. There must be a fire extinguisher and a container with sand near the stove.

Video: do-it-yourself oven for working in the garage

Thanks to my versatile hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorites are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know a lot of nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

The number of cars on our roads is growing from year to year. The level of harmful exhaust gases in the atmosphere is also increasing, and the mass of used tires and spare parts in landfills is increasing. However, one type of car waste can still provide real benefits. This is the waste of oil from the engine and other components and assemblies, which is used by many motorists and even homeowners as an energy source for heating garages and houses. The main role here is played by a waste oil stove, most often a home-made one. The purpose of our article is to talk about the device of such stoves and how to make them at home.

Waste furnace for garage

In a wide circle of car owners, this simple unit is well known. It can be used to successfully heat small rooms where there are no high requirements for cleanliness or aesthetics. These are garages, small country houses, workshops and other similar structures.

The homemade waste oil ovens shown in the figure have the following advantages:

• simplicity of design and low cost;
• undemanding to fuel quality;
• good heat dissipation;
• the heater calmly tolerates periodic kindling in the winter;
• compactness and mobility;
• there is no need for installation work.

In order for a simple oil stove to function reliably and stably, only one thing is required - a chimney with good draft.

Among the shortcomings, it is necessary to note the low efficiency of the unit itself and the presence bad smell oil vapors appearing in some operating modes. It is also worth noting various contaminants in the form of stains on the floor or clothing, which inevitably arise from direct contact with an automobile mining. However, to increase the efficiency of the stove is quite within the power of every home craftsman, this will be discussed below.

The device and principle of operation of the stove

The unit consists of two tanks - upper and lower, connected by a perforated pipe. In this case, the upper tank is displaced relative to the transverse axis of the lower one. Ideally, the shape of these containers is cylindrical, but, as practice shows, a stove with rectangular tanks works just as well. The structure has legs for installation on the floor. The diagram below shows the device of the furnace:

The device operates on the principle of pyrolysis combustion of heavy fuel. As you know, the ignition temperature of engine oil is quite high, so you can burn it at home if you only turn it into vapors. To achieve this, the lower tank is filled with a waste through the air hole approximately half, after which the ignition is carried out. You can't do without light fuel like gasoline or thinner.

The combustion of gasoline causes the waste oil to heat up and evaporate, as a result of which the vapors ignite and the stove gradually switches to operating mode. In the lower tank, which is at the same time a combustion chamber, the primary combustion of fuel takes place with the supply of air through the hole. The intensity of the process is regulated by a damper that blocks the air flow. Fuel consumption at the maximum is 2 l / h, in the mode of maintaining the temperature - 0.5 l / h.

A home-made waste oil heater is equipped with a vertical flue with many holes for the passage of secondary air. Combustion products trapped in the perforated pipe, mixed with oil vapors, are successfully burned out in it, as well as inside the upper tank. Then the flue gases go around the partition and leave the stove through the chimney pipe. Their temperature is high enough, and in order not to lose the lion's share of heat along with gases, it is recommended to perform the following measures:

• lay a chimney along the wall through the entire heated room with a slope towards the stove, a proven method, the walls of the pipeline give off a lot of heat into the space of the room;
• immediately behind the flue pipe, install a water circuit - an economizer, connecting a pair of heating batteries and a small tank - an accumulator to it.

A working furnace with a water circuit can only operate under conditions of constant heating of the building. In case of periodic heating, the system will have to be filled with antifreeze. But the efficiency of the installation will grow from a hopeless 40%, like a potbelly stove, to an optimistic 50-55%.

How to make?

Any House master, owning technique and techniques welding works, can calmly and quickly make this uncomplicated unit. First, you should make a blank of materials, focusing on the drawings of the furnace operating on waste oil:

Following such a detailed guide, it remains only to take and assemble the prepared parts. For work you will need standard set tools and accessories:

• welding machine;
• angle grinder;
• drill with a set of drills;
• a set of locksmith tools;
• measuring devices.

At the end of the assembly, it is important to check both containers for leaks and the quality of the welds, since oil processing over time can seep through the smallest defects and pores. It is not difficult to do this with your own hands, there are many ways. You can coat the seams with kerosene and determine the presence of defects visually, or soap the joints and supply compressed air inside the tanks.

To heat medium-sized rooms, the power of the oil oven must be increased; the simple design proposed above will not be enough. Using this principle of operation, the power cannot be increased indefinitely, but still there are options. For example, a furnace with two afterburning chambers, a separate fuel tank and a retractable firebox, which is shown below:

Forced air oil oven

An entire private house with an area of ​​about 100 m2 can be supplied with heat by an oil-fired stove equipped with forced air injection into the combustion zone. Its advantages are obvious:

• high power;
• high efficiency of fuel combustion;
• you can achieve good efficiency of using the heat of combustion by automating the unit;
• profitability.

Of course, such a furnace is somewhat more complicated to manufacture, in addition, a direct dependence of the heater's operation on the reliability of power supply appears. In areas where power outages are frequent, steps will have to be taken to ensure that the oven runs smoothly using a variety of generators.

Blowing furnace design

An inflated home-made stove for mining is a cylindrical vessel closed type, inside of which there is a well-known afterburner chamber in the form of a pipe with holes. In the lower part of the vessel there is a door for access to the firebox and ignition. The chimney pipe is welded to the upper part of the cylinder, and forced air supply to the pipe with holes through the top cover or a simple cut through the side wall.

The used oil is located at the very bottom of the vessel and is automatically supplied as needed. The methods of supply can be different: from the tank with a submersible pump or by means of a float mechanism, whoever likes what. The above figure shows a diagram of a stove with air injection, a water jacket and fuel supply using a float valve.

The used oil at the bottom of the container is ignited by adding a small amount of gasoline or thinner, then the blower fan is turned on. After warming up, the fuel begins to actively emit vapors, which are burned with an excess of oxygen. The result is a powerful torch of flame that spreads in all directions, as seen in the photo.

Advice. This design of the furnace has one feature: from a strong flame, the bottom of the vessel becomes red-hot. When it is necessary to heat one room, then a blower fan is placed outside this zone. If we are talking about heating a house, then the stove is supplied with a water jacket.

Combustion products leaving the furnace body have a very high fever(sometimes up to 400 ºС), as in the previous case. In order to prevent heat emission and increase the efficiency of the unit, the chimney must be equipped with a water heat exchanger connected to the heating system through a storage tank. Then it is possible to achieve an efficiency indicator of the furnace of the order of 80-85%.

To make a pressurized furnace, the easiest way is to take an old propane cylinder. It is necessary to cut openings for the door and chimney in it, as well as cut in a pipe for supplying air. The diameter of the latter is not decisive, in our case a size of 50 mm is suitable. The holes in the pipe must be made with a diameter of 9 mm in the same way as in a conventional stove. In addition, you will have to cut off the top of the cylinder and make a cover with an asbestos cord seal. For convenience, it does not hurt to weld the handles to it. How this is all implemented in practice, you can watch the video:

In order for a do-it-yourself oven to be worked off, it can work in different modes and be adjustable, it is equipped with appropriate automation. To do this, acquire a controller with temperature sensors and connect it according to the scheme with a fan. Then it will be possible to install required temperature heating and control it, reducing, if necessary, the performance of the blower.

For reference. Often this design is made without forced feed air. The operation of the unit completely depends on the draft force in the chimney, and the regulation takes place manually, with a damper.

Conclusion

This is not to say that a home-made oil oven is a very simple device and make it a piece of cake. But, on the other hand, there are no special difficulties here, you will have to seriously tinker only with the pressurized version of the furnace for testing. It will take a lot of time to make a water jacket or a heat exchanger for a chimney, and even install and configure automation.

When an affordable and economical way of heating is needed, many people think about making a stove-stove that runs on waste oil. In this article, you will find a description of the typical design, as well as ways to increase the efficiency of the device and make the oven more autonomous.

The operating principle of the oil furnace

Waste oil incineration was originally only one of the available funds its disposal. Craftsmen could not pass by such an energy-intensive fuel and created stoves in which oil burns with minimal formation of soot and soot.

1 - waste oil; 2 - lower container for oil; 3 - damper for air supply regulation; 4 - a pipe with holes for air; 5 - combustion chamber; 6 - top container; 7 - partition; 8 - chimney

Any oil or fuel oil can be used as fuel, as well as some pasty lubricants... Volatile liquids such as kerosene, gasoline or solvents cannot be used in the oven, but small amounts can be used for ignition.

Description of the structure

Structurally, the oil furnace consists of two combustion chambers connected by a fairly wide perforated pipe. Since most stoves are made from scrap materials and scrap metal, it makes no sense to adhere to strict dimensions, much greater importance have the proportions of individual structural elements.

The lower chamber of the furnace is a tank of arbitrary shape, which, when filled to 2/3, can hold 5-7 liters of fuel. Furnace power and fuel combustion rate are directly proportional to the area of ​​the lower chamber. The frequency of adding oil to the furnace depends on its capacity, therefore, the lower chamber is often made very voluminous, up to 20-30 liters. This downward shift of the center of gravity also ensures the stability of the structure.

3 or 4 legs with bolts at the ends are welded to the bottom of the chamber so that it is possible to adjust the installation level. Also, the oil supply pipe cuts into the bottom, which bends into a siphon for a water seal. It makes sense to lead the end of the tube into an adjacent container of approximately the same size, which acts as a fuel tank. The bottom of the tank should be 2-3 cm below the bottom of the stove to allow the oil to drain completely.

In the upper wall of the lower chamber, a hole with a movable flap must be cut to adjust the incoming air and, accordingly, the oil heating temperature. Also, a pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm and a length of 35-70 cm is cut into the upper wall. Holes with a diameter of 12-16 mm are made on its surface in 6 or 8 rows at a distance of 7-10 cm from each other.

The upper oven chamber usually duplicates the size and shape of the lower one, but it can be much larger. The higher the internal volume, the more complete combustion can be achieved, but in a chamber that is too spacious, the temperature will be insufficient.

It should be remembered that the manufacture of the furnace and its further refinement are purely experimental in nature, the same product, depending on the placement conditions, can work with different efficiency... Over time, from a simple stove for heating a garage or workshop, such a stove can turn into a full-fledged heating unit for the whole house, capable of operating in automatic mode. To do this, the furnace is equipped with a drip oil supply, a water heat exchanger or forced pressurization.

Why boost is needed

To increase the efficiency of the furnace, two types of air fans are used: pressurization and external blowing. The latter option is appropriate if a room that is impressive in terms of area is heated by a stove and it is not necessary to count on natural air convection. In this case, a conventional fan helps the case to give off heat more efficiently, the air flow is directed to the place of greatest heat.

Internal airflow is designed to enrich the upper chamber with oxygen, which contributes to a deeper disintegration of fuel particles, as well as its more long burning... With the use of forced airflow, the so-called "blue flame" appears, indicating a smokeless combustion process.

Air injection is carried out as usual. duct fan productivity from 250 m 3 per hour. It is usually placed on the floor next to the oven and connected to the upper chamber with a rigid air duct with a diameter of 100 or 110 mm. To connect the air duct, a piece of pipe of the required diameter is cut into the upper chamber, into which a damper is inserted to regulate the air flow. To avoid counter-draft, it is recommended to install a sensitive non-return valve immediately after the fan.

Oil oven with heat exchanger

Often, an oil stove is used as a boiler for water heating. This is possible after installing a heat exchanger in the upper combustion chamber. For good heat transfer, you will need a container of impressive size - about 30-50 liters. A heat exchanger is mounted inside the chamber, it can be a coil or a system of pipes made of steel, or an internal tank.

Due to the fact that the passage of combustion products near the heat exchanger is difficult, soot and soot are formed much faster, condensation may also appear during the ignition process. To facilitate cleaning, the heat exchanger should have at least one flange connection sealed with an asbestos cord.

The role of the coolant in the system is usually assigned to antifreeze or special fluids. The heat carrier must constantly move, therefore a circulation pump is built into the heating circuit.

Chimney rules

For an oil stove, it is very important to have a stable and powerful draft, so the height of the chimney should be at least 4 meters. Usually for the device of the chimney duct is used steel pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.

No more than two turns of the chimney are allowed, but only with the correct arrangement of connections at the corners and only from a vertical direction to a horizontal one. The turns must be made through tees installed on vertical segments. One of the branches of the tee must point straight down and have a removable metal plug to collect the resulting condensation.

The final vertical segment of the chimney can be made of an asbestos-cement pipe, but a brick protective well will be required to a height of 2-2.5 meters.

Ignition and operation of the furnace

For lighting, you can use paper or rags, or easily flammable liquids. In the first case, oil should be added in small portions to the combustion center. In the second, add a small amount (50-70 grams) of solvent or gasoline to the first chamber, which is 2/3 filled with oil, and set it on fire with a lighter with a long torch as soon as possible, without waiting for the formation of explosive vapors.

In operation, the oil furnace is completely fireproof, its design does not allow the formation of an open flame. However, there is a danger of oil being thrown out of the chamber by overflow or water ingress.

About once a month, you need to clean the furnace: remove the carbon deposits in a container with oil, after knocking the furnace with a hammer. In the upper chamber, especially in the presence of a heat exchanger, soot accumulates faster and is poorly chipped off; it must be brushed off with a metal brush. For ease of maintenance and cleaning, it is recommended to make the camera bodies detachable. For example, using double collar covers. The connection of the stove to the chimney and the fan must also be detachable.

Among all the options for individual heating of premises developed and used today, one of the most interesting is heating, based on the use of a special furnace that uses waste oil as a working resource.

Such ovens have an extremely simple design and are, at the same time, very efficient and productive units. You can cope with the manufacture of such a stove on their own, significantly saving.

If you wish, you can improve your heating unit by adding a cast-iron stove with a burner to its design, which will allow you to cook food, and the arrangement of the water circuit will make it possible to connect the stove to the heating system of the house and start a full-fledged water heating.

In furnaces of this kind, the combustion of fuel occurs twice, so it will be necessary to build two furnaces at once.

In one chamber, a slow combustion of the mining is carried out with the formation of combustible vapors, which pass into the second compartment and mix with air there. In the second chamber, the air-gas mixture burns with the release of a large amount of heat.

At the place of oil combustion, a damper is necessarily installed, which allows you to regulate the amount of air supplied to the first compartment. To provide oxygen to the second compartment in the pipe, due to which the connection of the two furnaces is performed, a plurality of holes (usually about 50) with a diameter of 9-10 mm are created.

Furnace modifications

There are several modifications of working furnaces. Three varieties are most commonly found.

This model has the simplest design. If you have the skills to own a welding unit, you can do it yourself with the manufacture of such an oven product.

It is necessary to prepare a thick metal sheet (from 4-6 mm), pipes and other required elements. To further save time and effort, you can replace the metal with an old gas cylinder.

It is important to remove the remains of old gas from the container. Otherwise, an explosion may occur during cutting. To eliminate this possibility, pump into a balloon plain water and only then get to work.

Blower oven

The design of such a furnace includes a fan. It must be installed so that most of the air flow falls on the second compartment of the homemade stove. This will ensure the most efficient combustion of the fuel, and the generated heat will be fairly quickly and evenly distributed throughout the heated room.

Drip feed furnace

It is quite difficult to assemble such a stove on your own. Typically, industrial heating units are equipped with a drip feed mechanism.

Such models make it possible to significantly reduce fuel consumption. Furnaces of this type are compact, efficient, extremely safe and relatively inexpensive.

Also craftsmen they build universal models that combine both the pressurization function and the drip feed mechanism. However, it is strongly not recommended to undertake the assembly of such a unit on your own without the appropriate skills.

The best option for self-made- an assembly made of metal sheets or an empty gas cylinder. Also big will fit fire extinguisher.

For the manufacture of a heating structure from sheet metal you need to have more serious welding skills. In this case, you will have to weld two fuel chambers yourself, weld stable legs to the lower body, then connect both bodies using a pipe with pre-drilled holes, then install a chimney and perform other related measures.

You can go a much simpler way, using an empty gas cylinder or a large fire extinguisher for the manufacture of a heating unit working on mining. Such containers have rather thick and reliable walls, which make it possible to ensure high fireproof properties of the finished structure and a long service life.

Regardless of whether you will use sheet metal or a cylinder to assemble the furnace, the following important rules must be strictly adhered to when constructing a heating unit:

• the air supply to the stove must be regulated. This rule can be enforced using an ordinary damper. You will change the size of the gap, thereby adjusting the intensity of traction;
• the chamber for combustion of used oil must be collapsible. This will make it much easier to maintain and clean;
• the flue pipe must be installed in a strictly vertical position. The use of inclined and horizontal segments in the case of such a stove is prohibited;
• to ensure the required level of traction, the chimney must be made with a length of 400 cm.

Stove making guide

We would like to bring to your attention the easiest option for manufacturing a waste oil unit from an empty cylinder.

First step. Cut the bottom and top off the balloon.

Second step. Make a drum from the halves obtained to burn waste oil.

Step three. Weld stable and preferably adjustable metal legs to the bottom of the structure.

Fourth step. Make a hole in the top wall of the first compartment to connect a piece of metal pipe. Equip the pipe itself with an adjustment flap. Oxygen will enter the fuel chamber through the hole. Also, through it, you will add working off.

Fifth step. Make an additional hole approximately in the center of the chamber and weld a piece of metal pipe to it to connect the two main elements of the stove. Holes must first be made in this tube. Recommendations regarding hole sizes and their number were given earlier.

Sixth step. Make a second stove chamber from the remainder of the old cylinder and sheet metal... Weld the finished chamber to the perforated connecting tube.

Make and install a flue pipe.

The instructions did not contain any recommendations regarding the dimensions of the heating unit. There is no special need to specify these parameters, since the work of a structure of any size, and, consequently, the intensity of heating, can be easily adjusted.

If you wish, you can make a furnace out of sheet metal for working off any required size.

The considered furnace is the simplest option of all existing ones. Such a unit is perfect for heating a garage, greenhouse, change house and small living space.

To increase the efficiency of the unit, you can equip it with a pressurization system, and if you have the necessary skills, with a drip feed mechanism.

Although the design of the furnace under consideration is not particularly complicated, when using the finished unit, it is still necessary to adhere to the following important rules and recommendations:

An ordinary user may have some difficulty in obtaining the required amount of used oil. It is recommended to prepare in advance a suitable container for the assembly and storage of mining. Fuel harvesting is best done gradually throughout the year.

Try to negotiate with the workshop staff. Employees of such enterprises almost always agree to give used oil for a symbolic payment or completely free of charge.

By following the instructions and guidelines given earlier, you will build a reliable, safe and efficient waste oil stove. To do this, you do not need to buy expensive materials and use devices that are difficult to use, because the oven is easily assembled from the simplest elements.

Happy work!

Video - Do-it-yourself ovens

Perhaps there is no such person who would not try to save on fuel for heating. This is possible if you use waste oil heating stoves. They can be supplied with any oil that can burn: transmission oil, diesel, engine oil, confectionery and vegetable oil. And as a result, there will be no problems with the oven. Below we will tell you how to build a homemade waste oil oven using the cheapest materials at hand.

How homemade oil ovens work

If you set fire to any waste oil, it will have a strong fume and smell unpleasant. Therefore, direct combustion is not applicable. Volatile elements are initially vaporized and then burned. This approach forms the basis for the operation of the furnace of this design.

There are oil ovens with two combustion chambers. The lower chamber is designed to heat the fuel with its subsequent evaporation. Combustible vapors are directed upward, saturated with oxygen when passing through a pipe with holes. Getting into the upper part of the pipe, the mixture ignites, and its afterburning occurs in the second chamber. This releases large quantity heat with less smoke.

The second method of splitting heavy fuel into flammable components is more efficient, but also more difficult to implement. To obtain the desired evaporation efficiency, a metal bowl is mounted in the lower chamber. After it is heated, the waste oil evaporates.

In order for the combustion process to be extremely effective, oil must be fed into the lower chamber in small portions, in a thin stream or by the drip method. This technology is called drip feed (in more detail: ""). Such ovens have several versions, some of which we will describe below.

Pros and cons of such ovens

The main plus oil ovens is that they can use waste oil as a fuel, which would be disposed of. At the right technology the manufacture of the furnace after the combustion of oil practically no harmful elements are emitted into the atmosphere.

Additionally, the following advantages can be noted:

• simplicity of design;
• high efficiency;
• minimum costs for equipment and fuel;
• the ability to use oils of any origin;
• oil can contain up to 10% of impurities.

However, there are also significant negative qualities. Firstly, if the technology is not followed, the fuel will partially ignite. As a result, harmful vapors can accumulate in the room, which can threaten with dangerous consequences for humans. Therefore, a prerequisite is to equip a room with an oil boiler with a ventilation system.

It is worth highlighting the following additional disadvantages:

• to obtain sufficient draft, the chimney must be at least 500 cm high;
• the roof and chimney should be serviced every day;
• difficult ignition: first, you need to heat the bowl, and only then supply fuel;
• difficulty in manufacturing a boiler with the ability to heat water.

In view of the features described above, such stoves are practically not used as heating for residential buildings.

Application area

Waste oil heating furnaces simple designs aimed at heating the air. They are also called heat guns, heat generators or heaters. They are capable of overdrying the air, therefore they are practically not used for heating living quarters. Their main purpose is to heat technical premises, such as: car washes, service stations, garages, workshops, as well as warehouses, where there are no flammable substances.

If the stove is modified by installing a coil for heating water, or a water jacket is built, then it can already be used as a water heating unit.

Since you are interested in the question of how to make an oil oven with your own hands, we give below detailed instructions this process.

Stove on waste oil from a pipe with your own hands

It is easiest to make a furnace body from a gas or oxygen cylinder, pipe or barrel with thick walls (read: "How to make a working furnace from a gas cylinder - theory and practice"). Such a unit will be able to produce a maximum of 15 kW of heat. It will not be possible to exceed this threshold, since due to a violation of the thermal regime, the boiler will begin to smoke, and this is quite dangerous.

First, we need to create a corpus - this is done in the following sequence:

1. We take a pipe with a cross section of 21 cm with a wall thickness of 1 cm and a height of 78 cm.
2. To make the bottom, we take sheet steel with a thickness of more than 0.5 cm.After cutting out the bottom with a diameter of 21.9 cm, we weld it on one side.
3. Next, the legs are welded to the bottom, which can be made from bolts.
4. Now you need to make a viewing window, which is located at a distance of 8 cm from the bottom. It is necessary to observe the flare-up of the bowl at the start. The size of the window is determined based on personal preference. The door is made from a cut piece of pipe, to which a thin shoulder is welded. To close the door tightly, an asbestos cord is laid around its perimeter.

1. A flue pipe with a section of 10.8 cm and walls with a thickness of 0.4 cm is welded on the opposite side of the body, 7-10 cm from the top.

We make a cover:

1. We take a piece of metal 0.5 cm thick and cut out a circle with a diameter of 22.8 cm.
2. Along the edge of the circle, we weld a collar of 3 mm metal with a height of 4 cm.
3. In the center of the cover we make a hole with a section of 8.9 cm, and cut a hole with a diameter of 1.8 cm on the side. The second hole is necessary to obtain an additional viewing window. It requires a cover, which is also a safety valve.

Now, for the blowing furnace, it is necessary to make a pipe for transporting air and fuel:

1. You will need a pipe with a cross section of 8.9 cm, a wall thickness of 0.3 cm and a length of 76 cm.
2. We drill 9 holes in a circle, while 5 cm should be retreated from the edge, and their diameter should be 0.5 cm.
3. Having stepped back 5 cm, we make two more rows, 8 each, holes with a cross section of 0.42 mm.
4. After another 5 cm, 9 holes are drilled in the fourth row with a section of 0.3 cm.
5. On the same side along the edge, make 9 slots 0.16 cm thick and 3 cm high. For this, you can use a grinder.
6. From the opposite end of the pipe, stepping back from the edge of 0.5-0.7 cm, we make a hole with a section of 1 cm.
7. We put the fuel supply pipe into the prepared hole. The thickness of its wall should be 0.1 cm, and the cross-section should be 1 cm. It should be on the same level with the air supply pipe. Its bend and length are determined by the location of the fuel container.
8. The pipe for supplying air and fuel is welded to the cover. It must be positioned in such a way that 12 cm remains from it to the base of the case.

It's time to make a bowl for fuel for the supercharged test stove:

1. First, we take a pipe with a cross section of 13.3 cm and a wall thickness of 0.4 cm, cut off a piece 3 cm long.
2. Now we cut out a circle with a diameter of 21.9 cm from 2 mm sheet steel.
3. Having welded it to a piece of pipe, we get a bowl into which we will supply fuel.

We begin to assemble a garage oven for testing:

1. We retreat from the bottom of the case 7 cm and mount the bowl inside it.
2. We mount the cover together with the fuel supply device.
3. We install the chimney on the chimney. The chimney must be located strictly vertically, even slight slopes are prohibited. The part of the pipe that remains in the room can not be insulated, and the part that faces the street is better insulated.

After the oil nozzle for the stove and the oil block are installed, proceed to testing. First, put a certain amount of paper in the bowl, add a flammable liquid and set it on fire. They switch to oil supply after the paper has practically burned out.

Taking into account the fuel consumption of 1-1.5 liters per hour, it will be possible to heat up to 150 square meters premises.

Homemade mini oven for testing

It is quite easy to build a mini-oven for working off with your own hands. Such furnaces are small in size and weigh only 10 kg, while they consume about 1.5 liters of fuel per hour with the release of 5-6 kW of heat. If the power is increased above these values, the furnace may explode. This is an indispensable mini-oven for working off for a garage (read: ""). It will make it possible to quickly warm up the room when severe frosts... It is not only compact, but also very economical, which is why it is also called garage.

The fuel container of this stove has a bottom and a top in the form of a standard 50 liter gas cylinder. As a result, we have very reliable designs. The tank can be made from another similar container with similar dimensions: diameter 20-40 cm with a height of about 35 cm.

In addition to the fuel tank, you will need to build a pipe with a wall thickness of at least 4 mm to mix fuel with air. The cones can be welded from structural steel with a thickness of 4 mm or more.

The dimensions of the furnace available in the drawing can be edited in one direction or another, but not more than 2 cm. Special attention it is worth paying to welding seams in funnels.

The length of the chimney should not exceed 350 cm, otherwise, due to excessive draft, fuel will begin to flow into the chimney, which will increase fuel consumption and impair heat transfer.

Miracle oven on working off

This version of the stove is quite popular for installation in summer cottages and garages. It has a small comfortable stove equipped with round or square burning zones. The design of the furnace is so successful that there are even industrial versions of it. On sale you can find such a stove with the name Ritsa.

Factory supercharged units

There are not only self-made furnaces for working off with pressurization, but also those that are manufactured at enterprises. There are import options and Russian ones. Imported boilers run on liquid fuel. Thanks to the pressurization principle, the oil in them is sprayed into tiny droplets, which are ignited after being combined with air. Imported stoves work according to the same principle, however, they are equipped with a special burner, in which the fuel is first heated up and only then sprayed.

V Russian ovens most often the first principle is applied, in which fuel is supplied to a hot bowl, which later, turning into gas, combines with air and ignites.

Devices with the following names have this principle of operation:

• Gecko... Manufactured in Vladivostok. They are available with a capacity of 15, 30, 50 and 100 kW / hour. Such stoves can heat water, so they can be built into water heating systems.
• Typhoon... Such ovens are sold by the Belamos firm. They are designed to heat the air. Two models are proposed - Typhoon TM 15 and TGM 300, which are capable of delivering 20-30 kW / h.
• Herringbone-Turbo... The oven can be purchased with a capacity of 15 and 30 kW. They are also designed to warm up the air, but there is a possibility to make a water jacket.
• Teplamos... There are capacities from 5 to 50 kW / h. They are heat guns. To start them, the plasma bowl is first heated with electricity, and after reaching a certain temperature, they proceed to supply fuel and air to the combustion area.

Drawings and diagrams

Designed by great amount various drawings for the construction of oil ovens. By looking at at least a few of them in more detail, you can get an idea of ​​their design to create a safe and efficient working furnace yourself.