When redeveloping premises, the load on the bottom floor slab is usually critical. Therefore, the drywall partitions in the photo are the best option in comparison with other construction materials... GKL construction technology is as simple as possible for self-made... To create a partition, you will need to build a frame from a galvanized profile, fix the sheets on it, and lay a layer of sound insulator inside.

Before making a drywall partition when redeveloping interior space, it is necessary to prepare a tool that is really necessary for this technology.

Professionals use laser devices (for example, a plane builder for 30 - 5 thousand rubles), cutters (at least 500 rubles), miter saws(purchase budget from 10 thousand), because they need high performance. A DIYer will spend more when buying this equipment than the materials cost along with hiring a professional finishing team. The minimum set of tools for one-time work is:

• perforator - fastening the profile to the brick, concrete walls, ceilings
• screwdriver - frame assembly, sheet sheathing
• level - necessary to control the contours of the lower guide profile, the lintel of the doorway
• plumb line - to work with it longer, but errors are completely excluded
• knife - cut GKL
• scissors - profile cut
• spatulas - narrow + wide set for filling joints

You can do without a level if the floor, the ceiling are already tiled with guaranteed compliance with the horizontal. The lower, ceiling profile is fixed along the existing planes, the lintel is installed along the marks from the ceiling on both sides of the opening.

What should be considered when designing a partition?

The main characteristics of newly erected structures are:

• sound insulation - usually a 5 - 2 cm layer of expanded polystyrene or basalt wool is enough
• thickness - the standard partition profile of leading manufacturers (Knauf, Giprok) has a width of 7.5 cm, however, 5 cm rails, racks are often used

• cladding - for heavy decorative elements (flexible stone, tiles, mosaics), one layer of gypsum board on each side of the partition is not enough, a two-layer coating with sheets of minimum thickness is used for stable geometry of the structure

Plasterboard interior partitions are rarely deaf, therefore, at the design stage, you can save working space by laying a sliding door, the canvas of which is placed inside the structure when you open it. For arches, you will need a simple device, a special profile.

When saturated with moisture, a drywall sheet becomes flexible, which allows you to build arched, radius, curved partitions with perfectly smooth surfaces that do not require alignment. The default semicircular interior wall outperforms the aesthetics of classic rectangular spaces.

The minimum width of a wooden door leaf is limited to GOST 4 cm, boxes are 7.5 cm. Therefore, for partitions with swing doors, a thickness less than this size is not recommended (5 cm profile + 1.25 cm drywall on both sides = 7.5 cm). If you plan to install a sliding canvas hidden inside the structure, the width increases to the size:

• 8 cm between profiles (the minimum allowable space on each side is 2 cm from the structure jamming)
• 1.7 cm profile width on each side gives a total of 3.4 cm
• drywall 1.25 cm on both sides adds another 2.5 cm

Thus, the thickness of the partition is 8 + 3.4 + 2.5 = 13.9 cm, minimum. But, the working space of the room is saved, the furniture can be placed in the immediate vicinity of the opening.

Preparation of bases

GKL is an economical material that evens out significant irregularities with a subsystem on which the sheets are fixed. However, it is not allowed to attach the starter profiles to loose, weakened bases, existing linings with low adhesion. Loose concrete is removed, cracks in brick walls are filled with filler.

Before starting work, for high-quality marking, it is necessary to take out the debris left after dismantling, dust the surfaces. The step-by-step instructions below will help you make plasterboard partitions with your own hands.

Surface marking

The baffle can have a simple, complex configuration. However, in any case, it is necessary to draw two lines in the same vertical plane on the floor, ceiling. The problem is solved in several ways:

• drawing a contour on the ceiling, transferring with a plumb line to the floor - used in cases where a slight displacement within 10 cm is not relevant
• transferring with a plumb line to the ceiling of the lower line - the technique is more complicated, however, the partition will be located in the right place by default (convenient for radius, curved walls)
• the use of a plane builder or a laser level - if there is such a tool in the arsenal of a home craftsman, this technology will dramatically increase productivity

A do-it-yourself plasterboard partition in the video is erected using standard technology before finishing the premises.

Installation of the power frame

The interior plasterboard partitions in the photo were created in compliance with SNiP standards, taking into account the dimensions of construction materials:

• cut of the profile - according to the results of measurements, the guides (top + bottom), racks (after 0.4 m or 0.6 m) are cut
• fixing the starting profiles - the guide profile is attached to the floor, ceiling through the soundproofing tape with dowels with a pitch of 0.4 - 0.3 m
• installation of racks - the first at the wall, following at intervals of 0.6 m or 0.4 m (reinforced partition for hanging shelves, plasma panels)
• fastening of jumpers - in the opening (the height of the door frame, taking into account the floor cladding), with a room height of more than 2.5 m (alternating bottom / top after 1.2 m - the width of the gypsum board sheet)

The profile is attached to each other with self-tapping screws or a cutter with periodic control of the level of each element. The flatness of the structure is ensured by the starting profiles.

Sheathing of the frame with GKL sheets

For the convenience of manufacturing heat, sound insulation, wiring of communications (wall inlets of stationary vacuum cleaners, switches, electrical outlets, tubes of climatic equipment, ventilation), one plane is first sewn up with plasterboard. When installing sheets, it is necessary to take into account:

• the size of the gypsum board in standard rooms allows you to close the area from floor to ceiling (2.5 m) when placed vertically
• in large rooms, each sheet will have to be increased in a piece
• to ensure the rigidity of the structure, vertical seams are displaced in adjacent rows (top / bottom, like bandaging a brickwork)
• the recommended pitch of self-tapping screws is 0.3 m with reinforcement in critical places

The plasterboard partitions in the photo of the living room kitchen on the outer corners are reinforced with a metal perforated corner. This increases the durability of the structure in the passage areas. The plasterboard is cut with a knife on one side, after which, the material breaks in this place, the second layer of cardboard is trimmed.

Openings, arches in plasterboard partitions

Deaf partitions are exceptions; in 90 cases, arched or doorways are arranged in them. The arch is assembled using several technologies:

• a contour or part of it is drawn on the sheet
• the element is assembled in place
• an arched profile is framed by a curved line
• reciprocal side elements are cut according to the template
• the end piece is cut with a margin of length, moistened with wet rags until the gypsum swells
• attaches to the template until completely dry to fix the shape
• installed in the opening in a standard way

In some cases, cutting of one layer of cardboard is used without wetting the material. In this case, the consumption of the putty increases when leveling the surface at the final stage.

A do-it-yourself plasterboard partition with an arched opening has more originality by default. Complex contours of the side surfaces are often used to enhance the quality of interiors.

Sliding door inside the GKL structure

A plasterboard partition with a door has a minimum thickness of 14 cm, which is due to the minimum thickness of wooden panels produced by manufacturers in accordance with GOST. When assembling one structure (lower + upper guides + sash) inside another (gypsum board sheets on a metal frame), it is enough to take into account the following dimensions:

• floor cladding thickness - e.g. for laminate 11 mm with underlayment
• spaces between flooring, door - recommended by SNiP standards within 6 mm
• bottom guide - 1.5 cm for most manufacturers, it is necessary to prevent swinging of the sash
• canvas - depends on the preferences of the owner (usually 2 m exactly)
• suspension - the canvas moves on it, the size is adjustable within 5.5 - 4.5 cm
• top guide - standard 1.5 cm

The result for a room with a finished flooring with a laminate will be a height of 211 cm.At this level, a beam of 8 cm wide is attached to the racks (usually a height of 10 - 8 cm), since the rigidity of a standard galvanized profile for periodic loads from moving the door leaf is not enough. This is the only wooden element of the structure, all other racks and lintels are metal.

The opening should be 7 cm narrower than the canvas, since in the open position the sash does not go inside the partition to the end, so that it can be closed without effort. Since the canvas is hung after the finishing decoration of the premises, during the construction of the partition, it is replaced with a piece of board of a suitable thickness, width, suspended on fasteners. This part is required to install the rear retainer:

Among decorative elements arches occupy a special place in the modern interior. Vaulted structures give the room spaciousness, sophistication and comfort. For any style of decoration of an apartment or house, you can choose an arch design that will not only organically fit into the image of the room, but also become its focal center, the highlight of the space.

Translated from Latin, the word "cancer" means a bend, and this is how we represent the classic version of this structure. But in modern interior there is a place for arches of various modifications made of wood, stone, brick and drywall. There are many ways to decorate your home without sacrificing comfort and a sense of space and freedom. In this publication, we will try to provide the maximum possible ideas in the field of interior arches design.

The interior arch is a stylish and elegant solution for a modern interior. She is great for creating designs. open type... The arch delimits the functional segments of the dwelling, but at the same time does not allow the feeling of a common space to leave the room. In any apartment or house there are rooms that can do without interior doors and only benefit from their absence. For example, combining the kitchen and dining room or living room and hallway. For some dwellings, arches are relevant as doorways utilitarian premises. Installing the arches and removing interior partitions, you expand the space, increase each functional area, but at the same time leave it in its place.

Choosing a material for the arch

The choice of material for the arch is directly influenced by the composition of the structures of the walls themselves, their thickness, dimensions and shape arched vault... For many materials, there are limitations not only in terms of the weight of the structure, but also the complexity of creating the shape of the arch. When building an interior arch, the following materials can be involved:

The easiest, faster and cheaper way to make an arched structure from drywall. After the arch vault has been sewn up with this material, the final finish can be varied. Can be sheathed with wood, covered with mosaics or decorative plaster... Even use lightweight artificial stone or wall panels that imitate brick, marble or wood.

The stone arch looks impressive, gives the whole image of the room some solidity. Depending on the color and texture of the stone covering, the arch could be relevant in various interior styles.

The first associations of the arch with stone cladding associated with country style, rural motives and closeness to nature. But such a structure can be successfully integrated not only into a suburban home. Interior classics, Provas, some varieties of country style and even a modern style of interior decoration look organically with a stone arch.

A brick arch looks great in a modern interior, it doesn't matter whether you decide to leave the masonry in its original form, having treated it only with protective sprays and varnishes, or painted the surface.

One of the most traditional ways arch design is wood trim... Such a structure will be relevant in any interior - from classics to contemporary. A wooden arch brings elegance and comfort to the design of the room and the functional background of the room itself does not matter - whether it is a corridor or a living room.

Arch design - a kaleidoscope of ideas for modern living

From the point of view of the appearance of the arch of the arch, the following types of such structures are distinguished:

1. Classic or roman arch. The Romans borrowed a lot from Greek culture and architecture, but this element can rightfully be considered their invention. The arch closest to all of us in shape and design is a vault with the correct radius and semicircular shape. This design does not contain protruding joints and is famous for its simplicity and laconic appearance. Classic arches look great in rooms with high ceilings. If you are planning to install an arch in an ordinary apartment with standard height ceiling, then this option will most likely not work for you.

One use case for a classic arch is to integrate columns and supports into a circular vault structure. As a rule, such structures are made of wood or stone, but for a more democratic interior, you can use drywall structures.

1. British arches or structures in style modern... Such designs differ from the classical ones in a more elongated part of the vault, the arc is straightened and has a truncated vault radius. For rooms with low ceilings, British arches are ideal.

1. Arches using element ellipse do not have rounded corners and are a fairly popular option for decorating rooms. The proliferation of such designs is associated primarily with the versatility of the design. It can be used with or without columns, in rooms with low ceilings and in spacious rooms, in combination with other arches.

A great way to isolate kitchen space without reducing the usable space of the room - the use of an elliptical arch with columns.

A similar design can be used to partially separate the space of a boudoir, study or dressing room located within the bedroom.

One of the variations in the use of an ellipse in the construction of an arch is the almost round shape of the opening. Such structures are often used in spaces where, in addition to the decorative background, cancer also plays a functional role - it limits the recreation area from the workplace, for example.

1. Slavic arch (or "romance") Is, in fact, a rectangular opening with only rounded corners. This is another one of universal ways zoning space, which will organically look both in a standard city apartment and within the framework of a suburban home.

1. Turkish the arch resembles structures that decorated palaces, harems and simply houses of wealthy residents during the Ottoman Empire. Of course, for such a design of the arch, the support of the entire interior is necessary - the features of the Mediterranean design of decoration and furniture will create a more harmonious image of the room.

1. Gothic the arch has a sharp vault. Such structures bring originality to the interior, but are only suitable for rooms with high ceilings. Decorated with mosaics, stone or ceramics, Gothic arches look luxurious and become focal points of the interior.

1. looks like a continuation of a rectangular or rounded door. Usually, in the upper part, inserts made of transparent or frosted glass are used, it is possible to use stained-glass windows, translucent plastic with a relief.

1. Thai an arch (or semi-arch) is a structure in which one of the sides ends in a right angle, and the other has a rounding. In this case, the radius of the circle can be any.

The cancer itself can be decorated in a variety of ways. Plasterboard structures often include fixtures or LED backlight, thereby providing not only zoning of the room, but also highlighting the functional segment with the help of light.

The interior arch, decorated with moldings, cornices and stucco molding is perfect for both the classic interior and its variations.

The combination of arched openings with other interior elements

The interior arch will organically fit into the interior, where the rounded vaults are already used for other interior elements. For example, in kitchen area or dining room, you can use arched niches as decor or storage systems, rounded shapes glass inserts in the fronts of kitchen cabinets and cupboards also contribute to the creation of a balanced image of the space.

Doors with semicircular tops are an excellent addition to arched openings and interior vaulted structures. Of course, doors with rounded vaults are more expensive than conventional models, but the cost of individual design justify themselves in the form of an original and exquisite interior premises.

The same can be said about rooms in which, in addition to interior arches, rounded vaults are used in the construction of windows. The elegance and elegant appearance of such a room is guaranteed.

The arch at the entrance to the living room will be in perfect harmony with the semicircular vaults in open book shelves. The same technique can be used for cabinets closed by facades in the form of carvings or glass inserts in the doors.

Interior arch - graceful element interior

One way to increase living space is to remove doors. But there is not always the ability or desire to destroy the walls. Then the former doorway is made in the form of an arch. Another use case arched openings- to divide a long corridor into zones, breaking up too simple geometry. When repairing on their own, arches are most often made of drywall: it is easiest to make them with your own hands.

Types of arches

Interior or corridor arches can have different shape... They differ mainly in the shape of the upper part and sometimes in the way of connection with the vertical parts. Their main types are shown in the photo.

This group is missing one of the most popular in recent years - the semi-arch. They have a rounded corner on one side only, on the other it remains straight. This is where the name comes from - a semi-arc. It looks good in modern interiors: minimalism, hi-tech, maybe in art deco.

The classic is distinguished by the correct shape of the top. This is strictly a semicircle, the radius of which is half the width of the doorway. This view looks good with an opening height of at least 2.5 m.It fits well into any interior, but looks best in long corridor, or instead of front door into the kitchen.

The arched opening in the "Modern" style is distinguished by a small radius of curvature and a sharp transition at the junction with the vertical components of the opening. It looks good if the walls and ceiling have a more or less simple structure. Looks great in the place of the former balcony door, good at the entrance to the office.

The arch of the "Romance" style is rather just rounded corners (basically, the masters call it that). Looks good at large widths and not the greatest height.

The "romantic" shape is good with a large width and low height

The "ellipse" shape is very close to the "romance". It differs only in the greater curvature in the middle part. Also suitable for low and wide openings. It only looks a little softer.

Trapezium is a non-standard design consisting of broken lines. It is played hard in the interior, therefore it is used infrequently: for some non-standard designs.

One of the design options is a trapezoid

It is very similar to an ordinary opening, but in fact it is, only without door leaf... For more originality, it is often accompanied by carved wooden elements in the form of columns on the sides. In this form, it is good for classic interiors, as well as ethno-style - Greek or Roman, depending on the type of columns.

For decoration in modern styles use another prim - next to the main arch, place smaller portals. This technique allows you to "beat" a simple form.

Another version of the "portal" arch

Before you start making an arch, you need to decide on its parameters. select a type and then options: where it will start from, and what radius of curvature it will be. It could be a really steep bend, or it could just be a little rounding of the corners.

To get an idea of ​​how your chosen shape will look, you can cut a template out of cardboard and attach it to the doorway. Assess the effect. If everything suits you, you can make a blank using this template. But only one - for one of the sides of the opening. The second must be done in place, otherwise it will turn out crooked.

Step-by-step instructions with a photo: the fastest way

Do-it-yourself drywall arches different ways... This takes a minimum amount of time. Having decided on the form, we proceed to the installation. On the prepared opening - cleaned of peeling plaster and relatively leveled, we fasten the frame according to the size of the future arch. It is made from a profile for drywall or dry wooden bar suitable size... Sometimes, if the wall is narrow, only wood can be picked up.

To begin with, we cut out a rectangle from the drywall according to the dimensions of the future arch, find its middle, mark it, and then temporarily fasten it in place. We retreat from the edge 12.5 mm - the thickness of the drywall sheet. If the adjacent walls are already plastered, add a couple more millimeters to the putty so that the surface can be leveled.

Now we take a piece of a profile or a rigid corner, from one edge we set aside half the width of the opening. At this place in the corner we make a hole, insert a carnation into it. We stick this nail into the middle of the doorway on the sheet we marked earlier. It turns out a kind of compass, with which it is easy to draw a perfect line.

Arc delineator

By changing the height of the attachment, you can get a more or less high arch. If you need a flatter curve, increase the length of the compass.

Having removed the sheet, we cut out an arc along the outlined contour. This can be done with a special drywall file, a metal saw with a fine tooth for a smoother edge, and a jigsaw (there will be a lot of dust). If the cut is not very smooth, align it with a grater fixed sandpaper... With this device, we achieve a perfectly flat curve of the shape we need. The cut out fragment of the arch - the side wall - is again fastened in place.

If everything is even, there are no distortions or irregularities, on the other side of the opening we attach the same drywall sheet as a few steps earlier - a rectangle or square - depending on the shape. It must be fixed strictly vertically. Now we transfer the shape of the arch to it. We take a square, at a right angle and with one side we press against the drywall, onto which we transfer the arch, with the other side against the arch. Putting the square perpendicularly, mark a point with a pencil. We make such points along the entire arc. The more often they are done, the easier it will be to draw a line and the more accurate the coincidence will be - you will have to grind less.

Why is it so difficult and not just to make a copy of the first sheet? Because few openings are symmetrical. As a result, it is very problematic to install the second sheet so that the lines of the arch coincide.

Having marked all the points, remove the sheet, draw a line, cut it out along it. We mount in the same place. Now we again take the trowel with sandpaper and now level both edges until they match. One moment - the trowel should be wider than the opening so that both walls of the arch are captured in one pass.

We measure the length of the arc, cut out a piece of the profile of the same length, make notches on the walls every 3-4 cm. This tape will need to be fixed along the arch on one side and on the other.

We fix it on the screws, carefully, pressing the profile and holding it with a bar, and not with your fingers: getting into the fingers with a screw is elementary. By the way, you need to work with the cut profile with gloves. If not, you will cut your hands for sure.

By the way, the back of the profile can be positioned along the edge - it is easier to work this way, and then the joint will still have to be repaired. In the same way, screw the strip to the other side.

This is a bottom view - profiles are attached to the sides

There is a second way to attach the profile - to plant it on a quick-setting universal glue, such as liquid nails... This method is acceptable if the opening width is small. With a large arch thickness, the glue may not withstand the mass of drywall, which will be attached from below.

The next step is to attach the jumpers. First, the depth of the arch is lost, 1-1.5 cm is subtracted from it. This will be the length of the jumpers. Pieces of a profile of this length are cut.

Jumpers are cut from the same profile

In the places where the jumpers are attached, "petals" are cut, the prepared fragment is installed and fixed. It should not rest against the walls, it is located at a distance of about 5 mm from the back. Jumpers are needed to make the structure more rigid, otherwise it "walks" when pressed.

Next, a rectangle must be cut out of drywall, which will cover the structure from below. Its width is determined simply - from the outer edge of one sheet of gypsum board, to the outer edge of the second sheet. The length is measured with a flexible tape (you can tailor it) or a tape measure with an assistant. We fasten this sheet with self-tapping screws to the arch frame. The sheet has to be bent, but read how to do this a little below - towards the end of the article.

Arched plasterboard opening: the second method (photo report)

This method is good if the thickness of the partition is small: try attaching the profiles, if the gap between them is several centimeters, and then attach the lintels. It all starts the same way: the first wall of the arch is cut out, attached and transferred to the second sheet.

After that, along the width of the gap between the two sheets, wooden beams are cut out, which are attached along the edge of the arch with self-tapping screws.

The cut strip of drywall is fixed starting from one side. To make it more convenient, you can fix it with clamps, since the thickness of the wall is small. When fastening the strip, you can focus on the self-tapping screws with which the bars were screwed. So you will exactly hit the crossbar.

Then it remains only to fix a special perforated corner and smooth out irregularities.

A corner is attached along the arch of the arch, everything is putty

It is also more convenient to level the dried putty along the arch of the arch with the entire plane of sandpaper fixed on a grater. It is unpleasant that the dust falls into the eyes, so it is almost impossible to work without glasses.

How to make an arch instead of a door: third method - typesetting technique

Another way to make drywall arches with your own hands is typesetting. The vault is divided into segments and assembled from pieces that create a curvature close to the required.

Attach them to a putty diluted with a mixture of PVA and water. Such a batch dries quickly, therefore, first we cut the plates and try on. It can be folded on the table, only the arch will turn upside down, but how correctly the plates are assembled will allow you to evaluate.

Then the plates begin to be attached to the opening, periodically reinforcing them with self-tapping screws for reliability. Washers are placed under the heads so as not to push the cardboard. Remove excess putty immediately. If it grabs, tearing it off is unrealistic. Finished surface pass with a primer to improve adhesion (adhesion), and then putty, leveling the arch. To make it easier to display, you can use a template attached on both sides.

It is not easy to make sharp bends with this technology, and for rounded corners and semi-arches it is a great way to do without profiles.

How to bend drywall

One important detail: Standard plasterboard wall bends poorly. For curved surfaces, they specially came up with a thin one - 6 and 6 mm thick. This folded part is easier to make from it. With a slight curvature, such a thin sheet can bend easily and without tweaks. If there is no desire to buy a thin GVL, there are two ways to bend the standard one.

First- take a needle roller and roll the cut section well on one side. You need to roll with effort so that the plaster breaks. Then the leaf is moistened with water and left for two to three hours. After such procedures, he should bend well. Take it, fix it on one side, and gradually pressing it against the arch frame, bend it, screwing it gradually along the edges with self-tapping screws. The method is not bad, but only with a lack of experience and insufficient processing of gypsum, the sheet can burst. We'll either have to mask the gap later, or start over.

Second a way to bend drywall: on one side, make notches with a knife about every 4-5 cm. The notches should cut the paper. Such a strip is also gradually fixed, breaking the gypsum as necessary. It bursts along the notch lines from light pressure.

Related Videos

Many are not satisfied with the standard layout of living quarters. You can change it using partitions. Any material for the partition can be taken. It should be borne in mind that such a heavy material, such as brick, creates an additional load on the panels. interfloor overlap... Most the best option- a plasterboard partition in an apartment.

Drywall is a fairly light material, not only in weight, but also in processing and installation. It is very easy to cut it into pieces of the desired size, for fastening there is no need to make additional holes in it, all parts are fastened with ordinary self-tapping screws.

An important role in the choice of material for the partition in favor of drywall is played by it low price... Structures made of this material, unlike bricks, are considered temporary, therefore, prior to their construction, you do not need to obtain permission to redevelop an apartment. This article describes how to make a partition using drywall.

The technology for working with drywall is quite simple, with minimal construction skills, you can build a partition with your own hands without the involvement of hired specialists.

Where to begin

Before starting work, you need to draw up a draft of the future structure, determine the consumption of materials that need to be purchased.

The design of drywall partitions is limited only by the owner's imagination. It can be a strict solid rectilinear wall with or without a door, an arched structure, openings for greater illumination or decorative openings can be present in the partition, the edge of the partition can be made vertical, beveled or any complex configuration. It all depends on the decision and the purpose of the partition.

Partitions are often made for zoning the space, that is, not for the entire width or height of the room. In this way, the functional purpose of a part of the room is emphasized. This technique is most effective in apartments with small rooms.

Frame

Drywall sheets cannot be mounted vertically directly to the floor, ceiling or wall. Therefore, a frame is preliminarily constructed, to which the sheet material is then screwed. The frame is made of a special metal profile.

First of all, the base of the future partition is fixed. It is placed on the floor and ceiling in stripes strictly parallel to each other. The edges of the base profile should be on the same vertical line.

This is controlled by building level, best result gives a laser tool. Fasteners are made with self-tapping screws or dowel-nails, depending on the surface material.

A vertical profile with reinforced edges is inserted into the base. The details of the structure are interconnected with self-tapping screws. The distance between the uprights should not exceed 60 cm to ensure the required rigidity.

Door and window openings

If you plan to make partitions with a door, then along the height of the upper edge door frame you need to attach a horizontal profile. The vertical posts and the horizontal lintel are fixed so that the solid side of the ball profile faces the inside of the opening. It is better not to install the lower base in place of the door, so that later you do not have to make a threshold.

Inside the profile along the perimeter of the opening is laid wooden block along the profile width. The door frame will be attached to these bars. To increase the rigidity of the frame in the area of ​​the door, the horizontal lintel must be connected with additional vertical segments to the base on the ceiling.

Its good result is provided by the placement of additional vertical profiles from floor to ceiling next to the main posts of the opening.

The frame for the window opening is arranged in the same way, except that the horizontal lintel is also made along the lower edge of the window frame.

Arched structure

Although drywall is tough sheet material, from it you can make a structure with a curved surface.

To do this, shallow notches are applied to one side of the sheet. They are moistened with water, and after soaking with moisture, drywall becomes plastic, it can be bent in an arc. It is necessary to fasten the sheet without waiting for it to dry completely in order to avoid cracks.

The frame for the arched opening is made from a standard profile. To bend the profile, cuts are made at its sides with high frequency.

The upper side of the arch is reinforced by fastening one or more vertical posts to the ceiling base.

Cutting and fastening sheets

The dimensions of the sheets almost never coincide with the right dimensions, you have to cut off the excess or add the missing. Cutting off a piece of drywall sheet is extremely simple. To do this, an incision is made along the marked line with a sharp knife, which does not reach the paper layer of the back side. Then the sheet is broken along the notch line and the remaining paper is cut through.

At the joints of the sheets, a chamfer is made into which part of the plaster mortar... The chamfer is made with a plane at an angle of 45 degrees or with an ordinary knife.

For the reliability of the seams, a reinforcing tape is applied to them. Without such preparation, cracks will form in the plaster at the joints of the sheets.

Drywall is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws with a fine pitch right through the sheet without preliminary holes. Self-tapping screws are spaced evenly at a distance of about 30 cm from each other.

Bulkhead wiring

Often it is required to install sockets, switches and lighting devices on the partition. V the right places holes are made in the drywall sheet for installation boxes.

Electric cables are laid inside the partition even at the stage of construction of the frame. If necessary, holes are made in the profile for the cable.

Partition finishing

There are several options for finishing a drywall surface:

• painting;
• wallpapering;
• finishing with panels or tiles.

Either option requires preliminary preparation walls. A mandatory step is surface priming to bind dust on the surface and better adhesion of the putty.

It is necessary to putty drywall to hide installation defects and seal joints. On the finishing putty, paint is applied or wallpaper is pasted. The fixing of panels and tiles is carried out in the same way as on other surfaces.

In conclusion, we present a photo of the plasterboard partitions.

Photo of drywall partitions

You can embellish and modify your home with drywall. Using this material, unique in ease of use and processing, you can build the most various designs with the aim of design interior. Sheathe walls with the formation of niches and shelves, installation of partitions with windows and aisles, arched structures and variations with several layers of cladding are quite simple to implement and subsequently trim with any material that is suitable for the meaning.

A plasterboard partition with your own hands is done in a matter of days, even if you do everything alone. The main thing is to take into account all the necessary nuances and requirements. Before proceeding with the formation of a variety of decorative partitions, you should familiarize yourself with general principles About, . After that, you can proceed to the study of various ways to use drywall as a basis. decorative design apartments.

The main characteristics of drywall are strength, lightness, pliability of processing. Besides undeniable advantage GCR becomes their ability to easily deform within a sufficiently large range for construction complex structures not with corners, but with bends and circles. This article will tell you exactly how to mold drywall and how to implement various decorative elements based on decorative partitions.

Elements for decorating plasterboard walls

In order to transform an ordinary partition or plasterboard wall, as well as plasterboard cladding, you can apply the following techniques:

1. form niches and shelves with or without illumination;
2. the formation of openings and windows;
3. arched and rounded shapes in wall openings;
4. the formation of a relief wall surface by mounting additional surfaces;
5. rounding of the ends of the wall or openings, the formation of simple stucco molding.

Each of the listed options is realizable using only drywall and metal profiles... The instruction will provide detailed description, with the help of which one or another decor option can be realized, as a result, they can be combined to create a truly beautiful functional partition.

Examples of decorative partitions

An option such as the formation of windows on the sides of the opening in a plasterboard partition with a door will perfectly fit into any design. This option will illuminate the already dark corridor with natural light and give the room an aesthetic look. These windows can be made in the form of semicircles for the entire height of the door or only a part. The classic option is a window over the door.

The walls in the hall or living room can be made with many niches in which decorative elements or just books will be located. It is advisable to organize niches with lighting so that they do not seem like dark spots against the light background of the illuminated room.

If you need to mount a partition that will only nominally divide the space of a room or adjacent rooms, you can make a plasterboard wall with many openings of various shapes and location. How to make a drywall partition will be described below.

Implementation of individual elements

We will not consider in detail about the process of erecting walls and partitions from plasterboard, but we will try as much as possible to pay attention to the process of forming individual decorative elements. So, the tools and materials that will be needed are the same as for the construction of walls, in addition, specific ones are used, such as:

• needle roller for perforating the top layer of cardboard;
• short nap roller or sponge.

Below we will look at where and how to use these tools and materials in the construction of decorative partitions.

Formation of niches and shelves

Any such elements require additional reinforcement of the frame made of metal profiles, and the formation of niches and shelves begins directly with the process of erecting the wall itself. Between the support profiles of the common frame in the place where the niche is formed, it is necessary to make two jumpers. The CD profile is used for this. A piece of profile is cut off equal to the distance between the uprights plus 5 cm.An incision 2.5 cm long is made from each edge along the bending lines of the side edges of the profile. The sides are bent at right angles. As a result, there will be a straight eyelet from the front of the profile and two ears set aside.

The resulting element is applied to the carrier and screwed with four self-tapping screws (with a "drill" tip) on both sides. In this case, two self-tapping screws are screwed into the large central eyelet to the central side of the support profile diagonally and one screw for each small side eyelet.

Alternatively, you can use special universal fasteners "crab", with which you can connect the profiles to each other transversely. Strength will be enough in either case, except that it is easier to work with a crab.

The same is done on the other side of the frame. After that, you can already mount the jumpers between its sides. If the width of the wall is 50, 75, 100 mm and is made of CW and UW profiles, the lintels can immediately be made in the form of plasterboard strips that form the base of the niche. In the case of walls of greater width, it is imperative to reinforce the niche box with a profile that is installed between the posts on both sides of the frame.

The sides of the niche, if its width is less than the gap between the support profiles, are also formed by the sections of the CD profile. They are only attached between previously mounted horizontal lintels.

Video: plasterboard wall with shelves

Video: an example of the formation of decorative niches

Formation of windows and openings

The construction of a frame for windows and openings is somewhat complicated. It is necessary to form a rigid structure from the main CW or AU profile and, if necessary, reinforce it with wooden beams... Just as in the case of niches, all openings are made at the stage of wall assembly.

First of all, the base of the frame for the opening is formed. For this, the CW support profiles are fixed in guides along the edges of the structure, with the front side inside the opening. In order to mark the upper and lower boundaries, the UW guide profile is used. A piece of profile is cut off 30 cm longer than the width of the opening. Departing 15 cm from each edge, a mark is made on the outside of both profile bends. For secure attachment, the sidewall cuts are made not perpendicular to the base of the profile, but at an angle of 45 degrees. It is necessary to start the cut from the side of the profile edge. As a result, when the profile is bent into a U-shaped element along the remaining front jumper, pointed ears remain on the long central part of the sidewalls. Do the bend during outside profile.

This workpiece is applied to the installed support profiles so that the legs of the U-shaped workpiece look inside the opening. The sides of the workpiece fit tightly over the profile. The entire workpiece is raised to the required level and secured with self-tapping screws. The lugs on the sidewalls of the long section of the workpiece are also fixed to the supports.

All the same is repeated for the other border of the opening, respectively. During cladding, sectors are cut out in drywall sheets so that they go around the perimeter of the opening.

If you plan to install a window, then there is no need to somehow separately close the profile along the perimeter of the opening. If the opening is made through, then the ends along the entire perimeter are closed with plasterboard strips. First, the strip is laid on the lower and upper edges, and then on the side ones.

If the wall width exceeds 100 mm, then the support posts and the opening perimeter are formed from parallel structures on both sides of the wall and lintels from drywall strips or profile are added for strength.

Video: plasterboard partition with a window

Making bends and arches

Drywall, although a durable material, still makes it possible to form from it not only elements with straight edges, but also semicircular and wavy ones. This is possible due to the properties of gypsum. When wet, it becomes somewhat pliable and capable of bending. It is this process that is used to form decorative elements in the form of arches or round openings. In any case, everything again starts with the formation of the correct frame.

All the same support posts from the CW profile are installed at the extreme points of the formation of the opening, that is, tangentially, strictly vertically. The upper and lower faces are formed as described in the previous case, again tangentially at the extreme point of the opening. No oblique or inclined mountings are allowed. On this basis, sheets of drywall will subsequently be attached with sectors cut out on them, repeating the necessary curvature of the opening.

If the opening is too wide, then intermediate posts from the CW profile are placed between the lower guide and the lower edge of the opening at a distance of 600 mm between the centers.

In order to form the bends, it will be necessary not only to bend the drywall, but also to install a profile attached to the existing racks and guides on the bends, because only the gypsum board should be attached to the profile.

In order to bend drywall, 2 methods are most actively used: using a needle roller, or by applying cuts with a mill or grinder

The profile is the same as for the support legs. The distance along the required bend from the points of contact of the opening of neighboring profiles, which form the perimeter of the opening, is measured, and a profile of this length plus a margin of 30 cm is cut off. The lateral parts of the profile are notched every 4-5 cm, leaving only the remaining lower part intact. The first and last incision is made at a distance of 15 cm from the edge of the segment. The workpiece is bent into the desired shape and applied to the perimeter. Fastening is carried out with the approach to the support posts with flea screws.

To give additional rigidity to the structure, a piece of drywall is inserted into the frame, repeating the bending contour from the inside and resting on the profile along the perimeter. After that, you can start plastering the walls with plasterboard.

As soon as the installation of drywall on both sides of the wall is completed, you can start filling the end of the opening or arch. For this, a strip of drywall is taken with a length equal to the length of one sector of the opening with a margin of 5-7 cm. The sheet is placed on a flat surface. Perforated with a needle roller upper layer cardboard. Using a roller with medium pile or a sponge, the drywall sheet is moistened with water.

After a few hours, you can already try to bend the GCR strip. If it normally lends itself to a slight bend, then you can support the edge of the strip on the wall diagonally and attach a small weight to the middle of the strip. After a while, the strip will bend enough to fit at the end of the opening. There, under the action of a load or scotch tape, the shape is finally given. Most likely, you will need to wet the workpiece again or twice. After the end of molding, it is necessary to completely dry the workpiece within 24 hours and only then screw it into place. The corners of the opening are sealed with a serpyanka mesh and putty, like all the joints inside.

Video: drywall arch

You can learn more about the formation of an interior arch from drywall.

Mounting walls with multiple levels and overlays

In principle, there is no particular difficulty here. The main thing is to remember that when assembling drywall structures that have several levels, the lower level of the base, completely sheathed with drywall sheets, is necessarily first formed, and only after that the installation of the profile and sheets for the second level is performed on top. It is important that in the frame of the first level there are support profiles for the frame of the second level. The whole process of mounting subsequent levels does not differ from the process of plating. ordinary walls drywall.

This method is popular for the construction of ceilings with several levels, in which each level is decorated in a different way and is separately highlighted. Installation of partitions can be done in the same way.

Forming rounded ends

In order for the ends of the partition or opening to be not straight, but to represent a semicircular ledge, you can proceed as follows. On the end, which is closed with a strip of drywall, another strip is superimposed, smaller than the previous one, for example, by 2 cm. It is attached so that there are gaps on both sides by a centimeter. On top of it, a strip 2 cm smaller than the previous one is still superimposed and fastened with self-tapping screws, and so on several times. The resulting stepped structure will be the rounding basis.