Do-it-yourself Kuznetsov ovens ordering. Heating stoves Kuznetsov: drawings and ordering with your own hands Wood-burning brick heating stove Kuznetsova

Today, many are wondering how and what is the best way to heat your home if there is no gas. Firewood and coal are some of the most readily available fuels. Therefore, the right decision here would be to build a heating stove, or even better, add the function of a cooking stove to it. There are a lot of design options, both in form and in principles of operation.

In this article, I will acquaint you with the features of the Kuznetsov furnace, its advantages and a step-by-step scheme for building such a unit on your own.

Engineer Kuznetsov's stoves have been known not only at home, but all over the world since the 60s of the last century.

Moreover, the relevance of the developments half a century ago has not diminished in the least, but on the contrary - Kuznetsov's furnaces are becoming more and more popular.

The purpose of modernizing the old design of the Russian stove with a not so significant change in its internal device was the creation of a heating unit with a higher efficiency while saving fuel.

Bell-type furnaces are one of the most common and in terms of characteristics are in no way inferior to channel furnaces.

This stove is the latest development in the conservative field: the installation and design of stoves. This stove features a fundamentally new method of using hot gas.

In construction standard type the movement of cold and hot gas occurs due to the draft of air, the flow of which occurs through the ash pan.

The bell-type furnace is very similar in principle to the operation of rocket furnaces, where hot gases do not move under the influence of thrust chimney, but thanks to the gravity of the gases themselves.

Oven advantages and disadvantages

Advantages:

- high ratio useful action 75-85% (efficiency);
- fuel burns out when high temperatures Oh;
- the furnace runs on all types of solid fuels - wood, coal and brown coal, briquettes, etc.;
- ease of maintenance, there is no need to clean long channels (low soot formation);
- durability of the furnace;
- aesthetic, original appearance;
- high efficiency, versatility;
- profitability;
- long-term preservation of heat;
- the shape and design of the ovens may vary depending on the purpose;

combining a Kuznetsov oven and water heating at home is not difficult and is often used in practice.

A tubular heat exchanger is installed inside the furnace and connected to the heating circuit pipeline. The main plus is that the heating technology and heat transfer of the furnace during modernization remain unchanged, without the slightest decrease in efficiency;

the design of the blacksmithing allows you to arrange low chimneys, and this does not reduce the draft. This fact is somewhat surprising to those who first get acquainted with the design and operation of these furnaces;

the features of the internal design of Kuznetsov's furnaces allow the unit to be installed in almost any room of any size, regardless of what the room is intended for.

Both in kitchens and in common rooms, the stove looks solid and aesthetically pleasing, and organically fits into many interiors;

the most interesting and unusual feature of blacksmithing in the context of a house stove: you don't have to close the view. This the most important detail ovens and one of the conditions for safe daily operation - for a Kuznetsov oven is needed only if an emergency situation occurs.

The fact is that when the fuel combustion process comes to an end and cooling begins, the thrust in the furnace channels is redistributed spontaneously, “automatically”.

It was the bell-type stoves that became the basis for the creation of many household, heating and cooking stoves of a new type, which give a significantly better effect with less fuel consumption.

What can be said about the disadvantages of the oven.

Technically, they are not there, but you still need to take into account something.

The Kuznetsov furnace cannot have massive walls - this would negate many of its advantages. But at the same time, it is exposed to rather high thermal loads.

Therefore, this unit must be carefully calculated and verified at the development stage and built just as carefully, with scrupulous observance of all technology requirements. With the slightest deviations from the technical regulations, the "blacksmithing" will turn out to be very short-lived.

The principle of operation of the oven

It is based on the principle of free movement of gases. For the circulation of air in a conventional furnace, the influence of external energy is necessary, that is, the creation of forced draft in the pipe.

When gases are in a confined space, in the presence of a constant source of heat, they separate under their own weight - cold gases settle down, hot gases rise up. At the same time, in the area of high temperatures, the pressure increases, and where it is cold, it drops and energy is generated.

It turns out that turbulent motion arises automatically due to the laws of physics. This means that if convection flows are correctly directed, then thermal energy will be carried by the masses of gas themselves.

With electrical heat supply, no draft tube is required. If the stove is heated with wood, then the combustion product must invariably come out.

Thanks to the clever design, it accumulates at the last stage of its path, as if under a hood. There it burns out again, giving up its heat to the end, and then, in the form of useless gas, is taken out into the street without cooling the system. Such ovens are also called bell-type ovens.

The fundamental feature of gas filling of cavities is that, no matter how many compartments the furnace has, they are all filled with gas evenly and the same physical processes take place in all. It is impossible to create something similar using traction, the principle of counterflow (widely used in Europe) or other convective methods.

That is why such stoves are an innovation in the stove heating system.

They regulate themselves and, no matter what configuration they give them, they always work according to a natural principle.

The principle of the furnace is quite simple: the lower tier and the firebox (also called the hearth) are combined into a single space - a bell, inside which the free movement of hot gases occurs.

The hottest, lighter gases move to the upper part of the bell, while the "heavy" cold gases are located in the lower part. And between them, gases circulate with an intermediate temperature.

The heated air is held in the furnace for a long time, transferring heat to the walls of the bell, and the cooled air is discharged into the chimney through a special passage. The combustion temperature in the bell is very high. The efficiency of such a furnace is three times higher than that of a traditional Russian one.

Varieties of Kuznetsov furnaces

According to the functions performed, Kuznetsov's brick ovens can be divided into several main groups:

Fireplaces.
Grills and barbecues.
Combined structures, complexes.
Perhaps the most popular are Kuznetsov's heating and cooking stoves. They will warm the house and will not leave hungry.

Kuznetsov also has such projects.

Before you start building, make sure that this is exactly the option that you want to see at home.

Furnaces of this kind involve a convenient protrusion with a cast iron surface, with the possibility of partially opening the holes to increase the temperature. It is also possible to make a door for a cauldron, similar to the old Russian stoves.

Layout of heating and cooking stoves requires its own approach and individual drawings.

Bell-type furnaces can be erected in almost any room. This can be an apartment, a residential building, an outbuilding, or a bathhouse. For example, for a bathhouse, a bell-type stove will be an ideal replacement for a conventional standard stove.

By building this stove for a bath, you can solve several problems at once. This design is capable of heating several rooms: a sink and a steam room, as well as a relaxation room. In addition, it is very convenient to heat up water on the stove, simultaneously creating steam in the required amount.

The house can be equipped with two-bell heating with a stove, this installation is very functional. Before erecting such a structure, it is necessary to carefully study the project.

The system that burns raw fuel must be organized in the most optimal way. The oven must always be kept at the correct temperature, otherwise the gases that form after combustion can be transformed into harmful wastes of soot and tar.

Do-it-yourself Kuznetsov stove

Building a blacksmith requires not so much skill as having good schemes and drawings, as well as utmost care. Not even a stove-maker, but a skilled householder can master this task.

It will be easier for those who already have precious experience in brickwork, then the only thing you will need to quietly and peacefully lay the rows, observing the scheme.

Having decided to build a furnace according to one of Kuznetsov's orders with your own hands, get ready for careful and scrupulous work.

On the diagrams that can be easily found on the Internet, you will see graphic image of each row, however, before starting masonry, you need to get acquainted with the features of the technique, in particular:

selection and preliminary processing of bricks;
purchase of metal parts (plates, dampers, doors, latches);
determining the most suitable place;
preparation of the base and foundation;
the possibility of equipping a chimney, etc.

Fireclay was recognized as the best material for internal masonry of "blacksmiths" refractory brick(Ш-5, ШБ-8), for external decoration - ceramics (М-150).

To enhance brick walls use metal elements (reinforcement, wire).

In order for the stove to function with maximum heat transfer, experienced craftsmen hone not only their skills, but also every brick - in the literal sense. They polish every detail, which is why projects made by professionals look flawless.

The main purpose of any stove is heating, its location should be chosen to provide heat in the most efficient way.

Kuznetsov's stove are infrared heaters that provide most warm by direct radiation.

Thus, maximum power is achieved when positioned correctly.

Therefore, the center of the room is always right choice... A wise decision is to place as a separator of functional spaces such as kitchen and living room or living room and bedroom.

Try to avoid placing oven masonry next to outside wall or worse, place it in a niche in the outer wall (typical for conventional fireplaces) if you want to keep warm indoors.

The choice of a stove of one type or another and its location in the house, in addition to the owner's preferences, depends on the intended purpose of the stove, the size of the house and the level of its thermal insulation, the number and size of windows.

In addition, for normal operation and repair, access to the stove must be free from all sides, that is, none of the sides of the stove should simultaneously enter any of the outer walls of the house.

To complete the construction process, you need to stock up on a bayonet and shovel, as well as the following materials:

sand (3 parts), cement (1 part) and water for solution preparation;
reinforcing rod of medium section;
plastic wrap;
board for the construction of formwork.

Construction stages:

1. After making the foundation, you need to attend to the preparation of the mortar for laying the furnace. For the construction of a brick oven, not cement, but clay is used. And not any, but only the one that lies at a depth of at least 2 meters. The clay is sieved and washed out, preparing a solution of the desired viscosity.
2. After the concrete foundation has completely solidified, you can proceed to the brickwork. Kuznetsov's stove is built correctly only if the order proposed by the inventor is observed.
3. Before starting laying, it is worth considering the location of the chimney inside the room and outside on the roof, which must meet certain requirements. Recall that any Kuznetsov furnace has ready-made drawings, in accordance with which construction work is carried out.
4. Fireclay fire-resistant bricks are used for laying the first two rows. To connect the bricks, a special masonry mortar... It is not recommended to use a mixture prepared for arranging the foundation base.
5. After completing the masonry of the 1st row, the corners are checked, each of which should be 90 degrees. Arrangement of chimney ducts begins from the 2nd row.
6. To improve the heat transfer of the device, it is recommended to install 4 duct cleaners - in the back, in the blower and on the sides. The sizes of the cleanings are selected on an individual basis. At this stage, the horizontalness of all surfaces is checked using a corner.
7. From the 2nd row, an ash pan and a blower are formed. These working chambers are designed to clean ash and create the necessary combustion draft. Brickwork is staggered with a 6 mm seam. A mortar based on refractory clay is used to fix the bricks.
8. Further, partitions for the internal compartments are installed, a wall is formed between the blower and the working part of the furnace.
9. When laying the 5th row, the grate is installed, the thickness of which is determined by the degree of loading the chamber with fuel.
10. Up to the 16th row, laying is carried out similarly to the previous rows.
11. A cap is installed from the 17th row, after which you can start arranging the second chamber located above the first. It will be the second cap. At this stage, the cap is overlapped, and on the 21st row, passages are arranged, which are directed along the inner walls on both sides.
12. Work is carried out in accordance with the proposed order up to the 26th row, after which the upper part of the hood is reliably closed with brickwork.

24 hours after the completion of the laying, you can perform test run furnaces with the addition of a small amount of fuel material. This will allow you to check the finished structure for leaks and the absence of gaps between the bricks.
If even minor flaws are found, they should be eliminated immediately.

The furnace is made of fireclay bricks, and the body of the furnace is made of ceramic, which means that they behave differently when heated and cooled. Therefore, the firebox itself must be floating; for this purpose, a special dry seam is made around it.

This is done to ensure that different software physical characteristics The masonry of fireclay and ceramic bricks did not break during operation.
"Dry joint": between the fireclay and ceramic bricks, the masonry mortar must be removed, and mineral cardboard must be inserted into the resulting void.

One more rule must be strictly observed - the projections from the fireclay masonry should not enter the recesses of the ceramic masonry, and vice versa. Thus, we get an absolutely independent firebox.

Features of the operation of the furnace

The first is the automatic mode of fuel combustion.

In a conventional stove, when firing up the blower, it is recommended to open it to its maximum width in order to create more draft in the stove. Then, as the fire intensifies in the firebox, the door is gradually closed so that the temperature of the flame decreases slightly, and the heat in to a greater extent transmitted to the premises.

In bell-type furnaces, manipulation of doors and stove valves is meaningless. The intensity of combustion is regulated by the ratio of the volume of the hoods and the combustion chamber. This happens automatically, you just need to light a fire and lay the required amount of wood or other fuel.

The second thing that pleasantly strikes is the absence of the need for daily cleaning of the ash pan.

Any combustible material burns in the furnace completely, without a solid residue. Almost no soot is formed on the walls of the furnace: as a result of pyrolysis, carbon is oxidized to the state of carbon monoxide (and partially carbon dioxide) gas.

The chimney damper, not closed tightly, will not lead to cooling of the furnace: hot gases will remain in the dome until they have given up all thermal energy bricks.

In summer mode, Kuznetsov's stove is transformed from a heating and cooking stove into a cooking stove. To do this, it is enough to open a special valve (it is called that - the summer valve), after which the flue gases will enter the chimney directly, bypassing the hoods. Accordingly, only the hob will be heated.

The temperature inside the cooking chamber can be regulated by a valve installed on the exhaust duct outgoing from it. By closing the latch and the chamber door, it can easily be turned into an oven. For ease of use, the shelves for the baking sheet can be fixed in the walls.

If you need to quickly warm up the room or dry out, the door of the cooking chamber is opened. At the same time, the temperature on the hotplates remains high enough for cooking.

Igor Viktorovich Kuznetsov is a well-known Russian engineer-inventor who has been developing new models of furnaces and constantly improving them since 1962. During this considerable time, more than 150 different models have appeared, comprehensively tested practically and deserved the widest demand among the owners of private houses. The designs of this inventor are distinguished not only by their efficient work on heating residential buildings, but also by the ability to give the interior of the premises coziness and originality.

To build Kuznetsov's furnaces with your own hands, the order of which, I must say, is quite complicated, not so easy. However, if you want to save a decent amount, as well as if you have certain skills and ability to read the corresponding diagrams, this is quite possible. Therefore, if it is decided to carry out these works on your own, you need not only to choose a suitable structure, but also very carefully study its order and recommendations for laying.

Features of designs I.V. Kuznetsova

Judging by design features heating devices, the engineer, when carrying out his developments, set himself two goals - the efficiency and productivity of the furnaces. That is why the inventor pays much attention to the location of the internal channels of the furnace, through which there is an intensive movement of combustion products together with the air heated in the furnace. Working on the structures, the master in each of his models tries to achieve a longer retention of the heated gas mass inside the furnace structure, which contributes to fuel economy while maintaining heat for a long time.

Furnaces with the name "bell-type" correspond to such characteristics, that is, they have special chambers for retaining heat. Usually Kuznetsov's designs have two "bells" - the lower one, combined with the combustion chamber, and located in the upper part of the furnace. The principle of operation of the lower "bell" is to separate the exhaust gases into hot and cold ones. So, the combustion products, rising to the ceiling of the hood, are retained and accumulate heat, while in many structures the heated air does not encounter any special obstacles to escape into the chimney.

The principle of operation of the two "caps"

The gases are also retained in the upper "cap", because the outlet from it is located at its base. Thus, before entering the chimney, hot gas streams rise to the ceiling, heating the entire chamber.

Thanks to such a system, the internal temperature of the furnace rises significantly and is maintained for a long time, which gives a high efficiency of the heater, reaching 95%. The difference can be seen if we compare this parameter, for example, with the efficiency of a Russian traditional stove, which, alas, is only 45-50%.

In addition to the rational movement of air, the preservation of thermal energy is also facilitated by the valves installed in the right places, which can also, as necessary, delay or redirect the movement of gases. These elements are also capable of regulating heat circulation. So, when the "summer" valve is opened, the stove will be configured only for cooking, because the heated air will go into the chimney along the path of least resistance, heating only the firebox and the hob without getting into the upper bell part of the structure.

Such a furnace can operate in two modes: "summer" and "winter"

Thanks to such a working system of furnaces, a number of advantages of the designs developed by I.V. Kuznetsov:

The oven warms up and the heat is released naturally and evenly.
It becomes possible to allocate more space for installing a heating element - a hob.
Combustion is carried out without the formation of soot and smoke, since the combustion products are almost completely destroyed.
Heat losses are minimized.
Due to the uniform heating of the structure, there is practically no deformation of the masonry and the formation of cracks in the seams.
This internal structure allows the creation of various furnace shapes and designs.
In addition, the furnaces developed by I.V. Kuznetsov, can be equipped with a water circuit or a built-in heating tank, which will provide hot water supply in the house or even water heating of other rooms.

When using the principle of operation of such an oven design, it becomes possible to create various household ovens, depending on their purpose:

Heating type of stove, designed only for efficient heating of a residential one-story or two-story building.
Cooking ovens designed mainly for high-quality and fast food preparation.
Sauna stove options - for efficient heating of sauna rooms.
Outdoor oven barbecue complexes with grills and smokehouses.
Fireplace stoves that are intended not only for main heating, but also for creating a cozy atmosphere and aesthetically pleasing interior in the house.
If desired, you can create multifunctional stove options, including heating, cooking and aesthetic functions.

How to fold the stove I.V. Kuznetsova

The construction of a real brick oven is always a rather laborious and complex process that requires certain knowledge, technological skills, and possession of certain secrets of craftsmanship. Therefore, in order to get a high-quality heating device, you need to get some experience in this work in advance. Masters who have been engaged in this, without exaggeration, art for a long time, advise novice stove-makers to make a preliminary one before capital laying - without mortar, that is, dry.

The construction of any brick oven is a rather complicated and time-consuming process.

In addition, if the first oven is laid out, you should not experiment, trying to add your innovations to the already drawn up order. In this case, it is recommended to strictly adhere to the chosen scheme and carry it out without any deviations. Therefore, you should immediately decide on the functions that the oven should perform. Since, I.V. Kuznetsov developed and compiled more than 150 orders of structures, from which you can always choose a suitable option.

If the construction of a stove is planned at the stage of building a house, then its installation should be designed in such a way that it heats two or even three rooms at once.

It is more difficult to build ovens into an already built house, since you will have to make accurate calculations to remove part of the wall. In this case, wall-mounted options are usually chosen, but they are capable of high-quality heating of only one room. However, if desired, it is possible to solve any problem, of course, taking into account the location of the floor beams and load-bearing walls.

It is important to protect combustible surfaces from overheating, therefore, if the stove is installed in a wooden structure, then gaskets of non-combustible material, such as asbestos, must be made at the joints of the walls of the house and the stove.

In addition, at the joints of structures, gaps filled with such material are also necessary for the free expansion of the brickwork when it is heated, otherwise the solution in the seams may become cracked, and the structure of the furnace itself may undergo deformation.

It is very important to arrange a high-quality foundation for the design of the furnace. It is usually made of concrete with waterproofing. The foundation of the furnace should not be connected to the foundation of the main structure, since they will shrink differently, and should not "pull" each other along.

The linear dimensions of the concrete foundation must be larger than the dimensions of the furnace base by at least 100 mm on each side of the structure. The deepening of the foundation is calculated depending on the massive structure of the furnace and the composition of the soil on which the building is being carried out. On average, the depth of the foundation pit to be torn off varies from 400 to 600 mm, and a waterproofing sand cushion and a hardening layer of crushed stone must be laid at the bottom. Well, the side walls are formed by installing wooden formwork.

The process of arranging the foundation is quite laborious, however, it must be carried out in full and with high quality, since the accuracy and durability of the entire furnace structure will depend on its reliability and flat surface. You should never rush to the construction - the poured concrete base must be given at least a month to fully mature and harden.

Moving on to further work, when laying the stove, you need to take into account the following points:

Before starting the laying of the first row, one or two layers are laid on the foundation waterproofing material- roofing material, which is further recommended to be marked with chalk to the size of the base of the furnace. This will make it easier to lay the first row.

If the masonry is planned from red brick, then it is recommended to overlay the combustion chamber with refractory fireclay material. It keeps heat longer and is resistant to high temperatures.
It is very important to observe thermal gaps of 5 mm between fireclay and red bricks - their coefficient of linear expansion differs significantly, and the material must be allowed to expand freely when heated.
It is recommended, after raising every next two rows, to reinforce the furnace wall with a wire that fits into the seam along the entire length of the row.
Cast iron and steel elements that will come into contact with an open fire are wrapped around the perimeter with asbestos rope or fragments cut from a solid sheet. This material will not only protect the metal from burning out, but also create the necessary gap for thermal expansion.
The folded oven is subjected to long-term drying before starting operation. For this, all doors and dampers are opened for free air circulation throughout all sections of the structure. Drying is often carried out by installing an ordinary 200 ÷ 400 W incandescent light bulb in the firebox. The heat given off by the light bulb and the through movement of air created from this will contribute to a faster drying of the structure.
The dried-out furnace is first heated with a small amount of fuel, the flame from which will harden the walls of the combustion chamber with fire.
If you plan to carry out external finishing of the building, then it should be done after at least one season of operation of the heater, when the folded stove will almost completely shrink.

You may be interested in information about what constitutes

Order scheme and materials for construction

The order is called the scheme that is developed for each furnace. This graphic plan shows in detail the configuration and quantity of materials for each row. Before starting work, you need to carefully understand the ordinal scheme, and if it is not clear, then you should contact a specialist for clarification. As a rule, it is quite easy for a technically "savvy" person to understand the ordering drawings, especially since a detailed description is usually attached to them.

The ordering diagram should look something like the following. The best option, if the ordering diagram contains several more options for the oven cuts - this will help to see internal structure structures and will greatly facilitate the work.

In different sections of the furnaces, both whole bricks and hewn or chipped into several equal parts can be used. In some cases, the brick can even be divided into 8 pieces, and ⅛, ⅜, ¼ bricks, etc. are used to form some sections of the kiln. The use of these parts is always indicated in the sequential diagram.

In addition, you need to know that in some bricks it will be necessary to make cutouts to install metal elements, for example, a hob or a shutter. In some cases, you will have to grind or cut the brick at a certain angle, which is also shown in the order.

For each specific model, a certain amount of material is required, which can be calculated independently based on the ordering, or the list is attached to it in a ready-made form.

To build any furnace, you will need to purchase the following materials:

For the internal masonry of the firebox, it is recommended to prepare fireclay brick(SHA-8). If it is not available, then you can replace it with another refractory brick.
For the main masonry of the building, you will need an ordinary ceramic brick with a strength grade not less than M150.
The solution will require one or two types of clay, one of which must be refractory and plastic. This material will require 100 ÷ 150 kilograms, depending on the massiveness of the structure.
In addition to clay, sifted sand is required for the solution. Its volume should exceed the amount of clay by 2 ÷ 2.5 times. In total, for a masonry consisting of 500 bricks, it is necessary to prepare 0.2 cubic meters. m. clay-sand mixture. However, many modern stove-makers have already appreciated ready-made masonry mixtures for stoves, which can be purchased in a specialized store.
Metal and cast iron building elements are selected individually for each model. The amount of wire for reinforcing the rows will also depend on the choice of the furnace model and its perimeter.

Prices for ceramic bricks of strength grade M150

ceramic brick m150

Detailed ordering of Kuznetsov's heating and cooking furnace OVIK-9

The heating and cooking stove presented below is designed on the basis of the OVIK-9 model, developed by engineer V.I. Kuznetsov. The only difference between these structures is the relative position of the furnace and blower doors, and the rest of the structures are completely identical.

This version of the stove is intended both for heating the house and for cooking, therefore it is quite suitable for installation in any country private houses.

For cooking, the model provides a cooking chamber with a two-burner stove and closing metal doors. It is equipped with its own exhaust duct with a valve, with which it is possible to regulate the temperature inside the closed niche. Due to the fact that the chamber can be completely closed, it can serve as an oven, therefore, brackets for installing trays are often embedded in its walls.

If you need the fastest heating of the premises, the cabinet doors are left open, but in this case, you can cook food on the hob itself.

The stove has a two-bell design, therefore it can operate in two modes - "summer" and "winter", that is, it can be flooded only for cooking in summer or heating the house and cooking in winter.

The depth of the fuel chamber is 450 ÷ 470 mm and has a "dry" joint for free expansion of the material when heated. If desired, the dimensions of the combustion chamber can be increased to 510 ÷ 530 mm - for this, the rear wall of the firebox will need to be laid out not in half a brick, as indicated in the order, but in a quarter of a brick. However, in this case, it is not recommended to use a "dry" joint, as the wall will be unstable, and the bricks in it may be displaced when laying firewood.

Such a stove has dimensions of 1015 × 630 × 2100 mm, has a heat transfer of 3600 W, provided that it is heated twice a day. It is quite capable of heating a room or adjacent rooms with an area of 30 ÷ 35 m².

Necessary materials

For the construction of this heating structure, the following materials will be required (excluding the construction of the pipe and arrangement of the foundation):

red brick - 430 pcs.;
fireclay refractory bricks (ША-8) for the furnace - 22 pcs .;
furnace door (DT-3) 210 × 250 mm - 1 pc .;
blower door (WPC) 140 × 250 mm - 1 pc .;
grate 250 × 252 mm - 1 pc .;
two-burner cast-iron cooking plate 586 × 336 mm - 1 pc .;
cooking chamber doors 510 × 340 mm - 2 pcs .;
latch for the cooking chamber 130 × 130 mm - 1 pc .;
gate valve "summer" operating mode 130 × 130 mm - 1 pc .;
chimney damper 130 × 250 mm - 1 pc .;
steel corner 36 × 36 × 4 × 600 mm - 4 pcs .;
steel strip 40 × 4 × 600 mm - 1 pc .;
steel sheet 600 × 550 × 3 mm - 1 pc .;
steel pre-furnace plate 500 × 700 × 3 mm - 1 pc. It can be replaced with another heat-resistant material such as ceramic tiles.

Prices for fireclay refractory bricks (ША-8)

Fireclay refractory brick sha-8

Furnace construction process

Illustration with the order of the masonry of the stove	Brief description of masonry operations
	The first row is completely solid, since it is the basis of the rest of the order, therefore it must be laid out with exact observance of the horizontal masonry and with perfectly drawn right angles. The diagram shows standard sizes, and they can be slightly changed, since the parameters of the brick and the thickness of the joints between them may differ slightly. As a rule, the thickness of the seams is usually taken at 5 mm, but it should be borne in mind that the corners of the masonry of the remaining rows should ideally coincide with the base. Therefore, they must be measured using a building angle, and then compare the sizes of the diagonals of the resulting rectangle - they must be equal to each other. This row will require 20 red bricks.
	On the second row, the formation of the blast chamber and the lower furnace bell begins. Since the base of the hood after the completion of the laying will need to be cleaned, two halves of the brick are installed, which protrude from the common row to the outside. During cleaning, these elements are removed from the wall, which allows this process to be carried out without problems. When laying the second row, these bricks are not fixed to the mortar - this will be done after the furnace has been fully erected and cleared of the fallen mortar and other construction debris. On the same row, a blower door is installed, which, temporarily, for stability, can be propped up with stacks of bricks. This row uses 14 red bricks.
	The third row is laid out according to the scheme. In the process of laying it, the blower door is tightly fixed on it.
	The fourth row is partially laid out of fireclay refractory bricks - the side and rear walls of the fuel chamber are formed from it. The blower chamber door is overlapped by two red bricks, which are protruded above it and obliquely cut off. In the same way, two hewn refractory bricks are laid on the back of the blower door. A thermal gap of 5 mm is left between the red and fireclay bricks. To fulfill this condition, craftsmen use a little trick, and instead of mortar, ordinary corrugated packaging cardboard, which has the required thickness, is placed between these types of bricks. After it burns out, a perfectly flat thermal gap remains. Such gaps should also be provided in subsequent rows, where the red and fireclay bricks meet. For this row it is necessary to prepare 11½ red and 3½ fireclay bricks.
	The fourth row continues. After laying the side bricks above the blower door, the middle of the door is overlapped with fireclay and ceramic bricks, hewn on the sides from both sides, such a masonry system is called a "lock". This will require 1 red and 1 fireclay brick.
	On the fifth row, a fuel chamber is formed. Fireclay bricks, installed on the front wall of the firebox, are cut obliquely. The space inside the firebox between the fireclay bricks should correspond to the size of the grate, since it should fit freely into the rectangle formed by the bricks, on the bricks of the lower 4 rows protruding by 10 ÷ 15 mm. At the same time, between the side walls made of refractory bricks and the grating, it is necessary to leave a thermal gap of 5 mm, which will allow the metal to expand without problems when heated. In the space behind the furnace, where the lower bell of the furnace is located, a separate vertical channel is formed, measuring half a brick. This channel will connect the lower and upper bells of the furnace. The number of used bricks in this row is 12 ½ red and 4 fireclay bricks.
	On the fifth row, without mortar, a grate is laid on the protruding bricks of the 4th row. The five-millimeter gaps between the brick and the grating are filled with sand.
	Sixth row. At this stage, the fuel door is installed. A gap of 5 mm should remain between the walls of its frame and the bricks adjacent to it, which is filled with non-combustible material. To do this, most often the frame is wrapped with rope or asbestos pieces. For laying this row, you need to prepare 12 red and 3 fireclay bricks.
	Seventh row. When laying the rear wall of the fuel chamber, a gap of 20 ÷ 30 mm is left in this row from the left edge of the brick - this will be the "dry" seam. It is necessary to remove non-combustible gases from the furnace and create conditions for more intense combustion of the flame. This row will require 12 red and 3 fireclay bricks.
	Eighth row. The masonry is made strictly according to the scheme using 12 red and 3 fireclay bricks.
	Ninth row. The walls of the combustion chamber are removed, and a passage is formed between it and the lower bell for the removal of combustion products. The side fireclay walls of the furnace should be 10 mm lower than the rest of the row (in the diagram, these walls are highlighted in lilac). Fireclay and red bricks, laid above the firebox door, move slightly to cover part of its frame. Previously, these bricks are chipped obliquely and thus form a kind of "bowl" into which the central brick will fit. For the row, 12 red and 2½ fireclay bricks are used.
	On the ninth row, between the front side bricks above the door, the central brick overlapping the frame of the furnace door is laid, previously hewn from both sides obliquely at the same angle as the side bricks, forming a "bowl". The left side wall of the fireclay brick firebox is covered with an asbestos strip 10 mm thick, which will level this side with the height of the entire row.
	Tenth row. On this row, red brick is laid on dry, that is, without mortar, on fireclay bricks covered with asbestos. In the red brick framing the firebox, a small cutout of about 10 mm is arranged, on which it will be laid hob... Moreover, between the slab and the walls of the brick on all sides, there must be a 5 mm gap for the expansion of the metal when it is heated. Refractory bricks, installed on the front and right sides of the fuel chamber, are constrained obliquely - they are shown in the diagram orange... At the same time, it is imperative to ensure that a gap of 10 mm remains between the fireclay bricks and the hob. This row will require 14½ red and 1½ fireclay bricks.
	After the completion of the previous work on laying out the 10th row, an asbestos rope impregnated with clay mortar is distributed over the cutouts in the laid bricks. A hob is placed on top of the asbestos layer. The gaps between the slab and the bricks are filled with sand. If a panel is purchased that has stiffeners on the reverse side, then additional cuts are made for them. The hob should only rest on its edges, but not on the stiffening ribs, and be “sunk” by 5 mm relative to the surface of the entire row.
	11th row. From this row, the walls of the cooking chamber begin to form and a frame with doors is installed. Moreover, it must be borne in mind that a five-millimeter gap must be observed between the metal frame and the bricks. To make it easier to form, it is recommended to wrap the frame with asbestos rope. For the 11th row, 11 red bricks are required.
	The 12th row is laid out according to the scheme, and 11 red bricks are used for it.
	13th row. The formation of the cooking chamber and vertical side channels continues.
	14th row - the work is proceeding strictly according to this scheme.
	The 15th row is laid in two stages. At the first step, the walls of the cooking chamber and vertical channels rise to the level of the metal frame of the doors.
	Further, it is necessary to arrange the overlap of the cooking chamber. To do this, a 600 × 550 mm steel sheet is laid on the 15th row masonry, in which a cutout is made for the exhaust channel. A metal sheet is necessary so that the ceiling of the cooking chamber is cleaner, and during cooking, various debris in the form of a solution from the masonry joints does not fall on top of the food. For rigidity, four metal corners and a steel strip are installed on top of the sheet.
	16th row. A red brick is laid on metal corners and a strip - the order is shown in the diagram. Only the holes of the vertical channels are left open. Before laying, on the bricks framing the near vertical and exhaust ducts, cutouts are made for installing chimney valves. The valves will ensure the “summer” operation of the oven and, if necessary, the tightness of the cooking chamber. The cutouts are made in such a way that there is a gap of 5 mm between the brickwork and the latch. In this row, the masonry consists of 20 red bricks.
	On the 16th row, two valves are installed on prepared platforms with cutouts.
	On the 17th row, the cooking chamber and installed valves are covered with red brick, so that the flue ducts remain open. For masonry, you need to prepare 19 red bricks.
	On the 18th row, the upper dome of the structure is being formed. To do this, two half-bricks are installed dry, which rise above the main masonry - they are necessary to clean the base of the hood. These bricks are fixed to the mortar after completing the brickwork and cleaning the base from mortar and debris. For the row, 13½ red bricks are used.
	The 19th row is laid according to the pattern using 12½ red bricks.
	The 20th row is also laid out according to the scheme and it will require 13½ red bricks
	21st row. The masonry is carried out according to the presented scheme, and 14 bricks are used for it.
	Further, a rather long section of construction is laid out according to a single scheme, only with alternating even and odd rows. 22nd, 24th and 26th rows. The work is carried out according to the same scheme, the rows consist of 14 bricks.
	The 23rd and 25th rows are also laid out on general scheme and also consist of 14 bricks.
	27th row. In this case, 14 bricks are also used, but the configuration of their arrangement is somewhat different from the previous rows, since they prepare the basis for the next almost continuous rows.
	On the 28th row, cutouts are made in the bricks framing the chimney channel for the installation of the main chimney damper. In the diagram, the places of the cutouts, to a depth of 10 mm, are highlighted in lilac. When making cutouts, you need to periodically try on the valve itself, since it should be located at a distance of 5 mm from the brick walls, that is, it should freely enter the cut-out gap.
	On the same row, the valve itself is installed in the cutout for the solution.
	For the 29th row, 19 red bricks will be required, since an almost complete overlap of the surface of the structure is performed. Only the chimney opening with the valve already installed remains open.
	The 30th row again covers almost the entire surface. It also requires 19 bricks.
	31st row - the base of a top-mounted pipe is laid with a chimney cross-section, the size of one brick. Consists of a row of 5 bricks.
	Further, the chimney itself is formed. For each of the rows, when laying it, you will also need 5 red bricks.

Detailed instructions and these diagrams will help you raise this fairly compact model of the furnace yourself. To make it look more elegant and neat, it is recommended to buy rounded curly bricks for laying corners or process them yourself. So, in addition to accuracy, the oven will also gain greater safety. This is especially important to provide in cases where there are small children in the house.

Arrangement of a stove in a country house or in a country house is a very popular business today. Despite the appearance of modern heating appliances on the market, many prefer the good old brick stove, which for many centuries served as the only source of heat and cooking in the house. Such designs are especially relevant where there is no gasification.

Time does not stand still. The good old "Swedes" and "Dutch women" have been replaced by new and more improved bell-type furnaces, which are in no way inferior to their channel counterparts. The bell-type furnace design features a fundamentally new method of using hot gas.

The Kuznetsov bell-type furnace (popularly referred to as "Kuznetsovka") was named after its creator - I.V. Kuznetsov, who started developing a new heating scheme back in the early 60s of the last century. The unique technology of "free movement of hot gases" was immediately recognized and became very popular all over the world.

The peculiarity of Kuznetsovka is that the heated gases pass and circulate through the pipe due to own strength gravity, as opposed to "forced" movement through the chimney. We all know from physics lessons that warm air rises up, displacing the cold. But, unlike channel prototypes, here the heat does not come out of the pipe, but is collected under the bell. Gradually it cools down there, and it is displaced by gusts of hot air rising upward.

The main difference between a channel furnace and a bell furnace is the principle of hot gas movement. In the first, the smoke is pulled upwards through the pipe, and in the bell-type one it is pushed out. The hood itself can serve as a container for heating water, cooking, drying, etc. Thus, the bell-type furnace can fulfill a double function.

Oven "Kuznetsovka"

That is, according to their functional characteristics, "blacksmiths" can be divided into:

bath stoves;
ovens for cooking (bakery, cooking, under a cauldron, barbecue, grill, etc.);
fireplace;
stoves for heating;
combined type.

The most common are precisely the combined types with the possibility of cooking and heating the whole house. Despite the possibility of variation in style and shape, the principle of operation of the bell-type furnace remains unchanged.

To make it easier to understand the basic principle of the Kuznetsov stove, imagine a fire kindled in the open air. Due to the unlimited access of air to the fire, the fire gives a little heat. Now let's try to cover this fire with a metal cap, leaving a small gap at the bottom so as not to extinguish the flame at all. Hot air will go up, heating the walls. Gradually cooling, the air will begin to lower to the left opening while a new portion of hot air takes its place. This is the principle of free movement of hot gases, which I.V. Kuznetsov has successfully applied it in his development.

Design features

Today on the Web you can find more than 150 types of designs, but no matter what form, style of execution they are, all stoves are built according to the same technique. The designer, creating the layout of the bell-type furnace masonry, set himself two tasks: productivity and efficiency. heating system.

It is not so easy to build such a structure. It is necessary to strictly adhere to the developed by Kuznetsov I.V. orders. The inventor pays a great deal of attention and attention to the arrangement of the inner channels of the bell-type furnace.

The bell is a separate chamber for retaining the heated gas, which helps to save fuel and increase the efficiency of the furnace.

The standard "blacksmithing" design assumes the presence of two caps. The lower one is combined with the combustion chamber, and the second bell is located in the upper part of the furnace. The task of the first bell is to separate gases into cold and hot streams. It is this that favorably distinguishes the bell-type furnace from the channel furnace, where heated air, under the action of traction, freely goes out. Here, the hot gas flow leaving the furnace tends upward, where it is retained under the first bell and accumulates heat for a long time.

Further, the flow tends through the passage to the second chamber, where it also lingers under the second ceiling, since the passage is at the base. As a result, hot air accumulates heat in the stove for a long time before leaving the chimney. This gives a high efficiency - up to 95%. If we compare it with the efficiency of a traditional Russian stove (channel), then this is 45-50% more.

In addition to the free movement of gas, the bell-type furnace also assumes mechanical flow control. For this, valves are installed in the structure. They can delay and redirect hot streams as needed. The "summer" valve is intended for the warm season when the oven is used as a hob for cooking. Having opened the summer damper, the hot air flow will rush up the chimney without going under the second bell.

Advantages of the bell furnace

If we compare the blacksmith's furnace with other brick counterparts, then it has great resistance to deformation. It heats up quickly and at the same time retains heat for a long time. Even with a loosely closed damper, the generated heat can persist for a long time in such an oven.

long-term operation;
low formation of soot and soot (it almost completely burns out, turning into ash);
Efficiency - up to 80%;
lightweight construction that can be mastered even by a beginner;
improved heating system in comparison with the duct analogue;
easy and practical to clean - there is no need to clean it often;
does not crack;
versatility of construction (in a house, apartment, bathhouse, etc.)
a large selection of shapes and designs;
no need to take into account the height of the chimney to ensure good draft;
high speed of kindling;
the design allows you to install a large heating element;
there is a uniform heating of the furnace;
the oven cools down longer than its brick counterparts.

Firing up Kuznetsovka

Basic installation rules

The inner shell of the furnace should be surrounded by empty space on all sides, since the brick will be very hot during the operation of the furnace.
The location of the oven heat source can vary depending on the type and shape, but it should always be at the bottom of the bell.
Every third row of brickwork should be tied with metal wire. This will strengthen the bond and prevent further deformation of the oven.
The shape of the cap can be of any shape and size.
When installing the stove, take into account the fact that when heated, all metal elements (grate, door) will expand. Therefore, all these parts of the furnace system must be installed with a margin for expansion. A refractory gasket must be installed between the brick and the metal.
At the first kindling already finished oven, do not immediately give the maximum temperature. The kiln must be fired gradually, starting at low temperatures.
After installation, the furnace should be treated with a refractory compound.

Today there is great amount varieties of bell-type furnaces, because progress does not stand still. Kuznetsov himself laid only the foundation for this new type of heating system, and his followers around the world are already making their own adjustments and working on improving the furnace. Of course, it is much easier to build a stove even at the stage of building a house. But often people think about the need to place such a heating device after the walls have been erected. Here, when developing a scheme, you will have to take into account the height of the beams, the location of the partitions, the roof, etc.

If the stove is laid during the construction of the house, then it is better to position it in such a way that it heats 2-3 rooms at once.

It is simply physically impossible to describe the laying instructions for all types of bell-type furnaces, therefore in this article we will give a classic version of assembling a bell-type furnace with our own hands. By exactly following our instructions, you will definitely succeed in assembling a solid, beautiful and functional stove.

The dimensions of the furnace, of course, can be different - the volume of the material will depend on this, respectively. But the order must never be changed!

What materials will be needed for installing the furnace

Before proceeding construction works, stock up all necessary materials... In order for the bell-type stove to please you with its functionality and appearance for many years, the materials must be of good quality.


	Refractory brick for the furnace (fireclay) ША-8.
	Ceramic brick (grade not lower than M150).
	Clay, sand and cement for brickwork and foundations.
	Plywood for formwork construction.
	Steel plate.
	Metal wire or reinforcing rod.
	Steel corner.
	Wooden blocks (50x50 mm) - 4 pcs.
	Doors and latch.
	Foil under the first layer of brick (according to the size of the foundation).

Bell furnace masonry tools

construction mixer or drill with attachment;
Circular Saw;
pliers (for tightening the wire);
Master OK;
shovel;
building level;
Bulgarian;
construction gloves.

Getting started with installation: step by step instructions

Step 1. We think over the design of the bell-type furnace and draw a diagram on paper.

Before starting work, you must clearly know how wide your oven will be. It must be drawn on paper, having calculated all the necessary parameters.

Calculate the size of the pit for the foundation. Please note that it should be 10 cm wider than the heating structure itself.

Step 2. Laying the foundation

Before installing the oven, you need to take care of the base. It must be firm and perfectly flat so that the structure does not crack and deform in the future. Laying the foundation is a very crucial step that needs to be taken seriously.

For a concrete floor, the foundation will be a kind of platform, raising the oven itself 20-30 cm above the floor level. We carry out formwork according to the size of the foundation and fasten its corners wooden blocks(50x50 mm). We pour sand 15-20 cm thick at the bottom of the foundation, tamp it well, and only then slowly fill the solution. Do not connect the foundation of the main house to the foundation of the stove. They have different weights, which means that the shrinkage will be different.

If you are making a wood floor stove:

We draw with a marker on wooden planks the size of the future foundation and cut a hole around the perimeter with a circular saw.

If the stove is being built in a wooden house, then fire safety rules should be taken into account. It is necessary to lay an asbestos sheet between the structure of the furnace and the ceilings.

We dig a hole 80 cm deep and 1.5m * 1m wide. Make sure that all walls are even. For this, it is better to use a bayonet shovel. We pour sand on the bottom of the pit 15 cm thick, carefully ram it. It is necessary to wait for the sand to settle (within 2 days).
Let's start creating the formwork. You can use any old wooden doors, unnecessary boards for the installation of formwork, but, ideally, it is better to take plywood. We measure the length and width of the boards according to the size of the foundation, lower them into the hole and connect them with screws. If the formwork is not all immersed in the ground, then we additionally connect the corners with wooden blocks (50x50). If the formwork is immersed in the pit to its full height, then this can be omitted.
We reinforce with a metal bar.

In some wooden houses, the floor is already 50-80 cm above the ground. In this case, it will be necessary to dig a hole for the foundation by 20-30 cm. That is, you need to "deepen" in any case, but take this difference into account.

We prepare a cement mortar (sand + cement + water) and slowly pour it into the pit. Try to pour in layers, stirring lightly with a shovel each time. This will allow excess air to escape and create a stable base. We leave the foundation to dry. It will take at least a week, but sometimes you have to wait 20-25 days for the mortar to fully set. In this case, there is no need to rush, since the operational properties of the furnace depend on the strength of the foundation.
While the solution is still wet, it is necessary to clearly determine by the building level how flat the site is. Correct if necessary.
To do this, we take the building level and check the place where the stove will be installed.
When the solution is completely frozen and the foundation is ready, you can start laying the oven. Do not rush to build a stove. The foundation must be strong and solid, the further operation of the furnace depends on it.
Place a layer of reflective foil under the first layer of brickwork. This will prevent heat loss and redirect the direction heat flow upwards. Take a little more material than the perimeter of the foundation. After laying the brick, then it will be exactly necessary to cut off the edges with a knife.

Video. Masonry brick "Bell" oven

Step 3. Preparation of clay-sand mortar for brickwork. We will use clay as a basis, since it is heat-resistant up to 1000 degrees.

You can watch the video visual instruction by mixing the solution.

Video. Preparation of clay mortar for oven masonry

In a large metal container, it is necessary to combine the clay with water and soak it for 2 days. After that, pour the sand into the container and mix well with an electric drill with a mixer nozzle. When the mixture is well mixed, and 2 materials will not separate in it, check with a trowel for the thickness of the solution. If the mixture slowly slides off the tool, then the solution is ready. You can start laying bricks.

Laying of the 1st level of the oven

Before you start laying bricks on the cement mortar, it is better to immediately lay each row, according to the ordering scheme, on the floor "on dry". The diagram shows that on some rows you will have to divide the bricks by ½, ¼. Where it is necessary to grind bricks, use the manual method so as not to violate the technical properties of the material and its aesthetic appearance.

Row number 1. The brick will be spread evenly over the entire area of the oven. The first row is solid, observe even corners. Start from the side walls of the "blacksmith", spreading with the spoon method, move from right to left. (Figure 14). The brick is laid longitudinally in length. We lay each next layer with the edge in the center, and report the missing part, having beaten off the required size from the new brick.
We put a row of bricks No. 2. At this level, we install a blower (according to the previously developed scheme) and a window for cleaning the furnace (there may be 2 of them). The design of the bell-type furnace allows you to position the door for cleaning and the blower anywhere, but the window must be located below the firebox. Here it will be necessary to divide one brick in half and install them so that they protrude from the general row to the outside. When laying the second row, you should not join them with mortar. Upon completion of construction work, you will need to clean the stove from the fallen clay. And after you have cleaned the oven, then fix them with a solution.

In order to properly install the blower doors and windows, it is necessary to thread a knitting wire into the existing holes, make a loop and twist with a bundle. Place between bricks. If there are no holes in the factory parts, then it is necessary to make them with a drill with a drill bit for metal. Use a pair of pliers to twist the loop as tightly as possible. For now, for stability, the doors must be fixed with bricks, but not connected with mortar. This will need to be done after laying the third row.

We put the row number 3 similarly to the previous one. From the 3rd row, we begin to raise the firebox itself, laying it out of heat-resistant bricks. Between the front wall of the red brick stove and the firebox itself (made of fire-resistant bricks), we lay basalt cardboard or corrugated foil. After burnout, it will create a perfectly even thermal gap of 5 cm.

The main feature of the Kuznetsov furnace is its "floating" firebox. That is, it should be a free-standing module, separated from the furnace body by a dry joint. Refractory bricks (chamotte) should not enter into the usual brick of the furnace body by any protrusions.

Features of the masonry of the Kuznetsovka furnace

We make row number 4 a little narrower (by 1, 5 bricks) in order to reduce the connector for the fall of combustion products (you can see it in the diagram). We design in such a way that a partition appears in the far corner from the firebox leading to the upper compartment.
Row number 5 is laid out similarly to the 4th row, only on top of the rim of the discharge you need to put a grate. We put it without mortar, and fill the gaps with sand.
Row number 6 is stacked in the same way.

Here we begin to install furnace door with a gap of 5 mm. We expose it carefully along a plumb line in order to control the level deviation. In the same way as in the 2nd row, when you installed the ash pan, you need to fix the door in the brick with metal wire.

In order not to move the door while you continue to line the row, fix it with harnesses and press the ends of the harnesses with a brick from above. This will allow you to safely continue working without worrying about the door deviating from the level.

Row number 7. We remove the chimney 0.5 bricks wide from the firebox into the adjacent air chamber.
Row number 8 fits in the same way as the seventh.
Row number 9. We bring out the walls of the furnace with fireclay bricks. Here, a passage is formed between the firebox and the first bell for the removal of combustion products (seen in the diagram).
Row number 10 is laid out by analogy with the previous one.
On the 11th row, the half-brick work goes into the laying of the whole.
Row number 12 - the fireclay grate is laid out. Again, we continue to lay in half a brick according to the above ordering scheme.
Row number 13 - the same styling as on the 12th row.
Row number 14 - remove the crate and leave 2 chimneys.
15th row - the same, but for 16 we use whole bricks instead of halves. We block two chimneys in the air compartments.
17th row. We block the movement of smoke with a steel plate. Thus, the channel that you created on the masonry of row 4 is now the only one.

Step 5. Laying the second level of the oven.

Row number 18 is laid in the same way as the 17th, but on this row we attach a fence plate, which is fixed on three sides with cement mortar.
Row number 19. We build a column at the very top of the structure. Behind the stove we make a small bosom (the width of a brick) so that the smoke goes through the pipe.
Row number 20. We put it in the same way as the 19th row.
Row number 21. We lay this row so as to block the channel leading to the pipe. The smoke will come out through the bosom you left at the bottom (on row 19).
Row number 22. From a quarter of a brick, perform an exhaust hood that comes from the steam collector. We cover the steel part of the ceiling.
Row number 23. We put it in the same way as row number 22.
Row number 24. In this row, it is necessary to connect the chimney with a steam collector with a closed channel
Row number 25-26. We put it in the same way as in the previous row.
Row number 27. Installation of the intake plate.
Row number 28. We cover the structure with a brick roof.
Row number 29. We make an additional layer similar to the previous one.
Row number 30. The row is almost completely covered with a brick.
Row number 31. Lays the base of the pipe. We bring out a pipe with a diameter of 1 brick.
Row number 32. A chimney pipe is being formed.

Step 6. For the oven to have an attractive appearance, you can carefully round all its edges by hand grinding. This must be done after the completion of construction work.

Step 7. We process the created furnace with a refractory compound.

Step 8. We melt the stove. It is not necessary to immediately give the maximum temperature. The oven should gradually "burn out". Start with the lowest temperature and then add heat.

That's all! Following the instructions, and most importantly, without disturbing the laying order, you will definitely be able to assemble a reliable, beautiful stove that will last more than a dozen years.

At the end of this article, we suggest watching a video in which you can watch the stages of laying out the Kuznetsov furnace.

Video. DIY Kuznetsov oven masonry

Stove heating in village houses, country cottages, at the dachas - not so rare. In the urban private sector, along with centralized systems many people use fireplaces as a heating structure and decorative interior element. And for those who plan to install a powerful universal heat source in the house that replaces radiators, a hob and an oven, the bell-type stove is suitable - an invention of the Russian engineer Igor Kuznetsov.

The heating effect of an open fire was noticed by our ancestors, lighting fires in caves. Bonfires were replaced by partially closed hearths, and then by the first ineffective fireplaces, most of the heat of which went into the chimney.

The Russian stove, laid out according to the channel technology, in contrast to the famous "Kuznetsovka", is only 30-40% effective.

Over time, they came up with a kind of hood that retains hot gases inside the structure, and learned how to divide the hot air into several streams. The turning point in technology occurred when I.S.Podgorodnikov, a well-known heating engineer in our country, took up the issue. He invented the "two-story bell", which arranged the outlet of flue gases in a slightly different way. However, practice was not enough, and the idea was finally realized thanks to I. V. Kuznetsov.

Option of a bell-top device for a wood-burning stove with an oven

Igor Viktorovich created a powerful theoretical basis for bell combustion, which he successfully put into practice. Only thanks to his labors stove heating became truly effective. He has developed more than 150 different standards, dozens of typical solutions and schemes are collected. The most advanced modifications became popular, hundreds of craftsmen adopted the orders of Kuznetsov's bell-type furnaces. Let's try to figure out how the "blacksmithing" works.

The principle of operation of the bell structure

Earlier, before the discoveries of Kuznetsov, heating was channelized, that is, hot air from the furnace rose up inside the device, heating its walls. Giving heat to the bricks, the gases cooled down and, under the action of traction, went into the pipe. Over time, due to uneven heating, cracks appeared, and the masonry required repair. The disadvantages of channel heating are rapid cooling, a large amount of soot.

The movement of gases, according to Kuznetsov's theory, occurs freely. Hot air inside the structure is trapped by two hoods, located either one above the other, or next to each other. There are variants with holes in the middle of the domes. Both elements are connected by means of the so-called "dry joint" - the free space required for the circulation of gases.

Gas flow diagram in a bell-type furnace

When the fuel burns out, hot gases flow under the first bell, which is connected directly to the firebox. Expanding, they cannot move up and stop at limited space, where they cool over time, or go down, reducing the draft and retarding the combustion process. Thus, the regulation of temperature and combustion power takes place independently.

The second bell creates additional thrust, as a result of which the solid fuel is first completely burned, and the resulting heat is retained thanks to the pyrolysis gases accumulated under the roof. Due to the fact that the hot air does not immediately evaporate, but circulates inside the device, the efficiency of the heat source reaches 93%. In addition, there is a tangible saving of fuel (briquettes, wood or coal), and the deposition of soot is minimized.

Erection of "blacksmiths": schemes and orders

Creating a "product" for a mass user, the author took care of practical application their research, creating a huge set of diagrams and drawings. For the precise construction of a great variety of modifications of bell-type furnaces, orders are used - step by step diagrams with a picture of each row of bricks.

Ordering the oven for the bath

Unlike Russian stoves, "blacksmiths" are less overall and, accordingly, take up a minimum of space. The number of bricks has also been reduced due to the large amount of free interior space... Due to the optimal thickness, the walls warm up quickly, and what is especially valuable - they cool down rather slowly. If you carefully analyze the dome orders, you will see how much empty brick space is inside the structure.

Multifunctional design of the Kuznetsov furnace

Part of the free space is occupied by caps fixed in a horizontal or vertical order, not necessarily symmetrical. The size of the domes can be the same or different. The vertical arrangement is often used to save space in the room, especially if an oven or dryer is planned. Due to the variability of the installation of domes, you can build a structure of any shape, designed for a specific room or special conditions.

The space under the second bell is often used for installing heat exchangers, hobs, bread ovens, etc. In projects drawn up for a bath, a tank is installed in it for hot water or a stove.

If you correctly "read" the order, drawn up by an experienced craftsman, you can achieve amazing results. For example, to maintain room temperature in a house made of rounded logs in the winter period, 2 fireboxes (in the morning and in the evening) will be required, only 5-6 logs each, in the off-season one firebox is enough.

Arrangements for building a fireplace

Various modifications of bell furnaces

Followers of I. Kuznetsov created an infinite number of options suitable for self-construction, however, each time they started from one of the typical projects. Let's consider some of them that can be used for the improvement of a private house or summer cottage.

Heating installations for home

There are more than 25 standard schemes for erecting heating inside house structures, some of which perform only a heating function, but some options have useful additions in the form of a stove bench or oven.

The place is chosen not against the wall, but in the center of the room, which entails a number of advantages:

uniform and efficient heating of the room;
lack of a cooling element (outer wall of the house);
the possibility of free access for maintenance (for example, cleaning the vaults);
the ability to add built-in elements (hob, dryer, hot water circuit).

It should be noted the aesthetic perfection of bell structures: they take up a minimum of space and look elegant, despite the presence of such details as the foundation. Modifications made "for the ceiling" have a short pipe (a characteristic feature of many "blacksmiths") and slender outlines. The design possibilities are endless and depend solely on the taste and wishes of the homeowners.

Cooking modifications for the kitchen

It is not so difficult to turn a heating brick device into a cooking one - just add a metal plate with a pair of burners and slightly change the design of the base. However, full-fledged cooking facilities include several additional horizontal surfaces (trays or grates for drying), as well as an oven.

Cooking "Kuznetsovka" in the interior of a village house

In terms of the quality of the prepared dishes, the dome device is not inferior to the branded gas or electrical equipment, which city dwellers are used to using. Among the typical designs there are those specially designed for baking bread, which are called so - bread. For farmers, gardeners and inveterate gardeners, this is a real find: you can steam berries, dry fruits and mushrooms, and canned vegetables according to old recipes.

Obviously, the cooking device is also a source of heat, so its more accurate name is heating and cooking. The best place for installation is a kitchen or a large room that combines and kitchen area, and a dining room, and sometimes a living room - in Russian national traditions.

Sauna stoves-heaters

There is a special marking for the designation of bath devices - BIK. Even outwardly finished "blacksmiths" compare favorably with other heaters. On the one hand, the material for manufacturing is very carefully selected, on the other, the installation of the dome does not interfere with the erection of neat and practical configurations. For example, sauna owners have appreciated the rounded corners that minimize injury and burns.

Sauna stoves

Having installed the stove in the right place, you can simultaneously heat and supply hot water to several rooms - a steam room, a shower room, a dressing room (or a rest room). Moreover, the parts of the structure that go into a particular room will perform various functions: create steam for the steam room, heat water for the washing room, moderately heat the dressing room.

The bath perfectly realizes the principle of long-term preservation of heat, characteristic of "blacksmiths". Maintenance is kept to a minimum as logs or briquettes need to be thrown in occasionally - thanks to the dome design.

Fireplaces to decorate the living room

Kuznetsov's fireplaces, unlike most domed modifications, have an open design and a reduced efficiency indicator, but they have rather high heat transfer parameters. The hood prevents the rapid release of heat into the chimney, trapping hot gases in the upper part of the building. When using a conventional fireplace, at the end of the combustion process, the room begins to cool; with hood heating, a comfortable microclimate remains in the room for a long time.

Construction of a fireplace in Kuznetsov's order

The possibilities to change the design and decorate the facade of the fireplace are endless. In addition to the usual shelf, you can build a number of functionally useful elements - small dryers for shoes or clothes with niches and hooks, as well as revet outside ceramic tiles or tiles. It is interesting that fireplaces are part of the design of some multifunctional structures.

Outdoor cooking solutions

Especially for cooking on fresh air whole furnace complexes have been developed, which differ in functionality and ease of use. The simplest design is a mini brick barbecue. It keeps the heat for a long time and allows you to increase the cooking time.

BBQ built according to Kuznetsov's drawings

Lovers summer kitchens, kebabs and grilled dishes will be pleased with the constructional variety of outdoor ovens with layer-by-layer, pyrolysis, bottom and top combustion. There are models that allow you to simultaneously fry, bake, stew several dishes at once. Ordering options for bell-type ovens with an oven or grill can be found in the public domain or on the author's official website.

Having decided to build a furnace according to one of Kuznetsov's orders with your own hands, get ready for careful and scrupulous work. On the diagrams you will find a graphic representation of each row, however, before starting the laying, you need to get acquainted with the features of the technique, in particular:

selection and preliminary processing of bricks;
purchase of metal parts (plates, dampers, doors, latches);
determining the most suitable place;
preparation of the base and foundation;
the possibility of equipping a chimney, etc.

Fireclay refractory bricks (Ш-5, ШБ-8) were recognized as the best material for the internal masonry of "blacksmiths", and ceramics (М-150) for external decoration. To strengthen the brick walls, metal elements (reinforcement, wire) are used. In order for the stove to function with maximum heat transfer, experienced craftsmen hone not only their skills, but also every brick - in the literal sense. They polish every detail, which is why projects made by professionals look flawless.

Fireclay brick masonry

A selection of thematic video tutorials

Construction of a heating and cooking furnace

The process of erecting a "blacksmith" with a stove bench

Heating and cooking option project

The construction of a Kuznetsov stove is one of the most successful solutions for a country or country house. The dome structure made according to your order in a professional performance will become an irreplaceable assistant and decoration of the interior. If you want to build your own heat source using the order, start with simple option, for example a summer hob.

I. V. Kuznetsov is a man who devoted his whole life to the design of furnaces. He invented a huge number of new designs, and also worked on improving them. His activities in this area began in 1962. At the beginning, he needed almost no advertising. The fame came thanks to the positive feedback from customers. Today Kuznetsov has his own website and a team of like-minded people. The site contains numerous designs developed personally by I. V. Kuznetsov using his special technology. Let's take a closer look at this technology, because it is great for the construction of stoves in modern dwellings, since it provides both high-quality furnishing of the premises and gives a certain zest to its appearance.

The main indicator that I.V.Kuznetsov was striving for in his developments is improving the efficiency of the furnace... Depending on the purpose of thermal devices, they were equipped with improved capabilities. Some have increased heat conservation, others have changed the furnace, or added equipment. The quality of these structures is proven by their fame and long-term operation. Many, in order to save money, but knowing about the positive reviews of Kuznetsov's stoves, undertake to make them with their own hands. This is possible if the procedures are strictly followed and the correct materials are used.

Features of Kuznetsov furnaces

As previously mentioned, the main thing in Kuznetsov's developments is efficiency and productivity. Scientifically speaking, this is a high value of efficiency. The difference between these ovens is fundamentally new and perfect development... The internal gas movement system is thought out most competently. Hot air stays in the oven longer and stores heat, while cold air quickly flies into the chimney through a special depression. These ovens are called " bell-type". This name was formed because inside it, according to the project, they make a kind of "bell" - the union of the hearth and the lower part of the furnace. It acts as a separator between hot and cold gases. The hot ones rise into the bell and stay in it, concentrating the heat. The combustion temperature in such a bell is much higher, due to which 95% efficiency is obtained. For a simple comparison, it should be noted that the traditional Russian stove has a value of 25-40%. Used in the furnaces of I. V. Kuznetsov free gas movement system, more natural, limits the formation of soot, and optimizes uniform heating and oven performance.

Other benefits follow from this:

uniform heating and heat transfer;
more places for installing a steel heating element;
burning without soot and smoke;
the need for cleaning is reduced tenfold;
low level of heat loss;
profitability;
resistance to cracking;
the opportunity to experiment with the shape and design of the oven.

Household stoves are different depending on their main purpose.

Cooking ovens created for cooking.
Heating used primarily for heating living quarters.
Sauna stoves respectively set in the bath.
Street there are both complexes and simple barbecues.
Bread... They are often combined with cooking and others.
The purpose of fireplace stoves is primarily aesthetic.

And this is not the whole list of the variety of stoves for various special purposes, the designs of which were developed by Kuznetsov. In addition, there is a convenient opportunity to create mixed views using several functions. And even the creation of entire multifunctional complexes. For example, heating and cooking stoves are very popular in everyday life.

How to build a Kuznetsov furnace yourself

Before implementing the idea to make a Kuznetsov oven with your own hands, you need to decide on what function should it perform... Kuznetsov has developed more than 150 drawings of heating devices, so it will not be difficult to decide and choose the option that suits you. We will consider the option simple heating stove.

Study the plan of the room in which you are going to install it. If the house has not yet been built, plan the placement so that every room was equally heated... It is not advisable to build heating into a finished house, but it is possible if necessary. In this case, you need to take into account the location of the beams and load-bearing structures while arranging a place for a chimney.

Then think about preparation of the foundation... It is made of concrete, 10 cm wider than the planned size of the oven. If possible, it is better to plan the foundation for the stove in advance in the process of building a house. Foundation laying operation laborious... Therefore, if you are not confident in your abilities, invite a specialist to this stage.

Basic rules to know

The refractory shell inside the furnace should, as it were, hang in the air, be free from all sides. This is necessary because the brick expands during heating.
Not always visible in the drawings, but the internal refractory the laying is always done on the edge... This applies to fireclay bricks. Clay bricks on the posts and inner walls are placed at the discretion of the master.
Every two rows of bricks you need strengthen the ligament by laying the wire.
Metal elements, doors and other appliances must be installed, leaving room for possible expansion... A special gasket is placed between the brick and the metal element.
Desirable process brick at the end of construction with a refractory composition.
The first kindling starts with minimum temperature and with further gradual heating.

Ordering

Laying the oven on your own for a person with hands is a feasible task. Anyone can understand the principle of operation of the oven, it is not difficult. But to create a high-quality oven, you should still unquestioningly use drawings and orders... Ordering is a set of drawings depicting the step-by-step layout of the furnace, for each row of bricks separately. It is not recommended to arbitrarily change something in the drawings. And even more so, you shouldn't do this if you are taking on such work for the first time. Kuznetsov has spent many years of hard work and painstaking work to create hundreds of perfect and proven blueprints. You just have to choose and get down to business.

What materials do you need

Indoor brick... Refractory fireclay bricks are used. The right amount it is best to calculate it yourself according to the drawing. It is not so much needed for a simple design. Some, due to limited financial resources, do not use fireclay bricks. This is permissible.
Outdoor brick... That is, ordinary clay brick, the acceptable grade is M150. It is better not to use bricks of lower quality for the construction of heating appliances.
Clay (100-130 kg). It is desirable to purchase it of good quality, especially since there is now a wide range of decent material in stores. The choice of low-quality materials can negatively affect the first firing of the finished furnace. Such a solution will crack easily.
Refined sand. Usually sand is taken twice as much as clay. You can buy ready-made clay-sand mortar in the store. So you will not go wrong with the proportion. A mixture of clay and sand for 500 bricks needs about 0.2 cubic meters. m.
Metal fittings. This is a gate valve, furnace and blower doors, a grate, 5 meters of wire and two steel corners.

Here is an ordering option Kuznetsov's bell-type furnace... It can be used for self-laying of a household heating stove at home without special training. Each row of bricks should be laid out according to the pictures in numbered order. In this case, do not forget about previously described rules. This stove is one of the easiest to design and versatile in daily home use.

There are few features for building this particular project. Here, the channel between the first and second tiers is made in a quarter of a brick to lengthen the firebox. And on row 21 you need to leave two narrow passages on the sides of the inner walls. They are needed to ignite the stove. That's all a beginner master needs to know. And having done your first job, you will understand that it is simple and understandable. The main thing is not to be afraid to start, and it will go by itself.

Then you can make a more complicated design yourself. Kuznetsov developed so many varied interesting options that you will certainly want to bring to life more than one of them.