When working in a workshop or at home with a grinding tool, when processing parts and preparing surfaces, there is a need to remove fine dust. And, of course, it is desirable to reduce its concentration even during work by organizing a local constant air purification at the workplace.

At enterprises, this problem is solved by installing filtration units with a cyclone, which captures and settles dust with the required efficiency.

In our case, it is enough make a vacuum cleaner with a cyclone, thereby saving on the purchase of a construction vacuum cleaner, where such a function is provided by the manufacturer.

The principle of operation of a homemade construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone filter

There are several options for the manufacture of a cyclone for domestic needs. To determine the most effective scheme the functioning of the equipment, you should know the principle of operation of this filter.

The cyclone in the classic version is a cylinder and a cone, in the upper part of which there is an inlet for polluted air and an outlet for cleaned air.

The inlet is made so that air enters the filter tangentially, forming a rotating flow directed towards the equipment cone (downward).

Inertial forces act on the particles of pollutants, carry them out of the flow to the walls of the apparatus, where the dust settles.

Under the influence of gravity and secondary flow, the mass deposited on the walls moves to the cone and is removed to the receiving hopper. The cleaned air rises up along the central axis and is discharged through a branch pipe located strictly in the center of the upper platform of the cyclone.

A prerequisite effective cleaning air is an accurate calculation of the apparatus and the tightness of the cyclone, including in relation to the receiving hopper.

Otherwise, the principle of operation is violated and chaotic air movement occurs, preventing dust from settling in normal mode.

In addition, it is necessary to select an engine that sucks in polluted air, which will provide optimal parameters for the operation of the equipment.

Homemade filter for a construction vacuum cleaner, the options of which are offered on the Internet cannot be called a full-fledged cyclone.

The most simple circuit of such equipment is a plastic barrel with an embedded tangential inlet pipe, mounted by a filter from the car inside the "cyclone" body, through which purified air is removed and to which a household vacuum cleaner is connected.

The disadvantages of the equipment are the absence of a formed flow swirling along the walls of the barrel and a laminar return flow.

In fact, we get an additional capacity for the deposition of large particles (sawdust, shavings), and fine dust will clog the outlet filter and will need constant cleaning.

To improve the design, we suggest supplementing the plastic barrel with a homemade cyclone made of traffic cone... It is best, if the work is being carried out for several hours, to install stationary option equipment for removing dust from the workplace.

In this case, we need a radial household fan. And with a one-time connection of the cyclone, it is enough to use a conventional vacuum cleaner with suction power control.

Sometimes an additional rheostat is installed to reduce the speed of the vacuum cleaner motor, thereby selecting the parameters necessary for the normal functioning of the filter.

In the following sections of the article, we will present you two options for a cyclone for domestic use.

Selection of inventory - what is required for work

For the first design option for a stationary installation, you need the following components:

• Plastic barrel;
• Gray plastic sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm;
• Road cone;
• Corrugated hoses, steel wire reinforced or metallized hoses;
• Adhesive for plastic;
• Radial household fan with the ability to change the engine speed and performance equal to sixfold air exchange in the room;
• Plywood 10-12 mm thick.

The second version of the product is the most successful, since in this case the product approaches the functionality of a real cyclone.

To make a filter, you will need to purchase:

• Ready plastic cyclone made in China;
• A barrel, bucket or other container for the manufacture of a dust bin;
• Corrugated hoses.

A plastic cyclone is inexpensive, about 1,500-2,500 rubles, and is designed to collect dust of medium and heavy fractions. Copes well with shavings and sawdust.

Step-by-step instructions for the cyclone assembly process

The first option is next in line stationary structure for workshops with a large formation of dust of various origins.

Assembling a cyclonic filter for a vacuum cleaner

1. First, we make the cyclone itself. In the plastic cone, we make a hole for the tangential passage of the sewer pipe.
2. For a better connection of the branch pipe with the body of the cone, the mating surface is matted with an emery cloth. We glue the seams with an assembly gun.
3. In the upper part of the cone, we install a vertical pipe, the lower end of which should be below the inlet. Thus, we will be able to achieve a vortex movement of air. The branch pipe is fixed in a plywood sheet in the shape of a circle with a diameter equal to the size of the base of the cone.
4. The prepared cyclone is fixed to the barrel lid using a round plywood sheet.
5. To plastic barrel when the inlet pipe was clogged with debris, it was not deformed under the influence of vacuum, inside the container we install a spacer - a frame made of plywood sheet. External dimensions frames repeat the inner diameter of the barrel. To strengthen the structure, we pull the building cone to the container lid using metal pins.
6. Next, we connect the cyclone to the corrugated hoses at the inlet and outlet. We install a radial household fan outdoors under a canopy.

The second version of the construction vacuum cleaner is based on a Chinese plastic cyclone, which is also fixed on any of the selected containers. The result is a reliable and efficient design.
The cyclone is attached to the tank using a clamping metal flange.

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

When starting the vacuum cleaner and further operation, do not forget to clean the inlet pipe and stop the internal spacers on the containers in order to prevent deformation of the receiving hopper.

If a finer air purification is required, then the design is complemented by an automobile filter in the case at the outlet of the product.

An article on how I did homemade construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone filter. The performance of this useful homemade products for home can be appreciated by watching the video of his work.

I collected a bucket of sand to demonstrate my work. I am generally satisfied with the result of the work done (if you consider that this is a working prototype, so to speak).

I will say right away: this article is a presentation of my history of the creation of my first (and as I think not the last) homemade cyclone vacuum cleaner, and I in no way intend to impose anything on anyone, prove and assert that the solutions described here are the only correct and infallible. Therefore, I ask you to treat with understanding, so to speak "understand and forgive." I hope that my little experience will be useful to people like me who are “sick” people who are “haunted by a bad head” (in the good sense of this expression).

I once thought about the upcoming repairs and the ensuing consequences in the form of dust, construction debris, etc. And since we have to gouge, cut concrete and "perforate", the experience of the past suggested that we must look for a solution to these problems. It is expensive to buy a ready-made construction vacuum cleaner, and most of them are still designed with a filter (in some models even with a special "shaker") or a paper bag + filter that clogs, worsens traction, periodically requires replacement and also costs a lot of money. Yes, and just this topic interested, and there was, so to speak, "purely sports interest." In general, it was decided to make a cyclone vacuum cleaner. A lot of information was gleaned here: forum.woodtools.ru I did not carry out special calculations (for example, according to Bill Penz), I did it from what came to hand and by my own instinct. On occasion, on the classifieds website (for 1100 rubles) and very close to my place of residence, I came across such a vacuum cleaner. I looked at the parameters, they seem to suit - it will be a donor!

The cyclone body itself decided to be made of metal, because there were strong doubts about how long, for example, plastic walls would last under the influence of "sandpaper" from a stream of sand and pieces of concrete. And also about static electricity when rubbing debris against its walls, and did not want the future homemade vacuum cleaner metal sparks to their users. And personally, I think that dust sticking due to static will not have a positive effect on the operation of the cyclone.

The general scheme for building a vacuum cleaner is as follows:

The polluted air passes through a cyclone, in which large particles settle into the lower waste container. The rest passes through the car air filter, engine, and out through the outlet. It was decided to make a branch pipe to the outlet, and the dimensions of the inlet and outlet should be the same. This will allow the vacuum cleaner to be used, for example, to blow out something. You can also use an additional hose to make the "exhaust" air out to the street so as not to raise dust in the room (this suggests an idea to attach this unit as a "built-in" stationary vacuum cleaner somewhere in the basement or on the balcony). Using two hoses at the same time, you can clean all kinds of filters without blowing up the dust around (blow with one hose, pull in the other).

The air filter is chosen “flat”, not annular, so that when it is turned off, the debris that got there would fall into the bin. If we consider that only the dust remaining after the cyclone gets into the filter, then its replacement will not be required soon, as in an ordinary construction vacuum cleaner with a filter without a cyclone. Moreover, at the price of such a filter (about 130 rubles) is much cheaper than the "branded" filters that are used in industrial vacuum cleaners. You can also partially clean such a filter with an ordinary household vacuum cleaner by attaching it to the cyclone inlet. In this case, garbage from the bin will not be sucked in. The filter attachment is collapsible for easy cleaning and replacement.

A suitable tin can was found very handy for the cyclone body, and the central nozzle is made of a can of polyurethane foam.

The inlet pipe is made with the expectation of plastic sewer pipe 50 mm into which, with the corresponding rubber sleeve, the hose available in the vacuum cleaner is quite tightly inserted.

The other end of the branch pipe turns into a rectangle, so to speak, to "straighten" the flow. Its width was chosen according to the smallest diameter of the hose inlet (32 mm) so as not to clog. Approximate calculation: L = (3.14 * 50 mm - 2 * 32) / 2 = 46.5 mm. Those. section of the branch pipe 32 * 46 mm.

I assembled the entire structure on soldering with acid and a 100 Watt soldering iron (I worked with tin for almost the first time, except for the soldering of ships in childhood, so I apologize for the beauty of the seams)

Soldered the central pipe. The cone was made according to a pre-fitted cardboard template.

The body for the auto filter is also made from galvanized templates.

He bent the upper part of the central pipe of the air duct in the shape of a square and fitted the lower opening of the body (pyramid) of the autofilter under it. Put it all together. On the sides of the can, the cyclone made three guides to increase rigidity and fastening. The result is such a "gravity".

For the garbage container and the engine compartment, I used 2 barrels of engine oil (60 liters). Too big, of course, but this is what we managed to find. I made holes in the bottom of the engine compartment for attaching the cyclone, and glued spongy rubber to the surface of the garbage container for sealing around the perimeter. After that, I cut a hole in the sidewall for the inlet pipe, taking into account the thickness of the rubber cuff.

The cyclone-"gravicapu" was fastened with M10 studs and nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent loosening from vibration. Hereinafter, all the places where tightness is needed, was articulated with a rubber seal (or rubber washers) and auto-sealant.

To connect the engine compartment and the garbage container, I used latches from the military wooden boxes(special thanks to Igor Sanych!). I had to remove them a little in a solvent and "correct" with a hammer. Fastened with rivets (with rubber gaskets from the chamber).

After that, for greater rigidity and noise reduction, I foamed the entire structure polyurethane foam... You can, of course, fill everything to the top, but I decided to play it safe, suddenly there would be a need to disassemble. In addition, everything turned out pretty tough and strong.

For ease of movement and transportation of the waste container, I attached 2 door handles and 4 wheels with brakes. Since the waste container has a flange on the bottom, it was necessary to make an additional "bottom" of a plastic sheet 10 mm thick to install the wheels. In addition, this made it possible to strengthen the bottom of the barrel so that it did not "squelch" when the vacuum cleaner was in operation.

The base for fastening the filter funnel and the engine platform was made of chipboard with fastening to the barrel along the perimeter with furniture "Euro screws". To fix the engine platform, I glued 8 M10 bolts onto the epoxy (I think that 4 would be enough). Painted. I glued it with spongy rubber around the perimeter of the filter installation site.

When assembling the neck of the auto filter body around the perimeter, I missed the sealant and pulled it to the base with self-tapping screws with a flat head.

The engine platform was made from 21 mm plywood. For a more even distribution of air over the filter area, I chose a 7 mm recess in the site with a milling cutter.

The vacuum cleaner's plastic engine compartment was used to collect the exhaust air and mount the motor. "All unnecessary" was cut off from it and glued to the epoxy with reinforcement of the outlet pipe with self-tapping screws. Everything is put together on a sealant and using metal profile(thick spongy rubber is inserted into it) pulled to the engine platform by two long M12 bolts. Their heads are recessed flush into the platform and are filled with hot melt adhesive for tightness. PTFE nuts to prevent loosening from vibration.

Thus, a removable motor module is obtained. For ease of access to the autofilter, it is fastened with eight wing nuts. The enlarged washers are glued (the Schaub did not run away).

I made a hole for the outlet.

I painted the entire "pepelats" black from a spray can, having previously cleaned it with sandpaper and degreased.

The engine speed regulator used the existing one (see photo), adding it homemade scheme to automatically start the vacuum cleaner when you turn on the power tool.

Explanations on the diagram of a homemade vacuum cleaner:

Automatic devices (2-pole) QF1 and QF2 respectively protect the circuits for connecting the power tool (socket XS1) and the circuit for regulating the speed of the vacuum cleaner motor. When the instrument is turned on, its load current flows through the VD2-VD4 and VD5 diodes. They were selected according to the reference book because of the large voltage drop across them with direct current. On a chain of three diodes, when one (let's call it "positive") half-wave of current flows, a pulsating voltage drop is created which, through the fuse FU1, Schottky diode VD1 and resistor R2, charges the capacitor C1. The FU1 fuse and the RU1 varistor (16 Volt) protect the control circuit from overvoltage damage, which may occur, for example, in the event of an open (burnout) in the VD2-VD4 diode chain. The Schottky diode VD1 is selected with a low voltage drop (to "save" already small volts) and prevents the discharge of the capacitor C1 during the "negative" half-wave of the current through the diode VD5. Resistor R2 limits the charging current of capacitor C1. The voltage received at C1 opens the DA1 optocoupler, the thyristor of which is included in the control circuit of the motor speed regulator. The variable resistor R4 for regulating the motor speed is selected the same rating as in the vacuum cleaner controller board (it is removed) and made external (in the case from the dimmer) to be placed on the upper cover of the vacuum cleaner. A resistor R removed from the board is soldered to it in parallel. Switch S2 "on / off" in the open circuit of the resistor R4 is used to manually turn on the vacuum cleaner. Switch S1 "automatic / manual". In manual control mode S1 is on and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) - S2 on - S1. In automatic mode, S1 is off and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) - terminals 6-4 DA1. After turning off the power tool due to the large capacity of the capacitor C1 and the inertia of the motor, the vacuum cleaner continues to work for about 3-5 seconds. This is enough time to suck in the remaining debris from the hose into the vacuum cleaner.

The automatic start circuit is assembled on a breadboard. Switches S1, S2, dimmer housing (to accommodate variable resistor R4) and XS1 socket are selected from one not very expensive series, so to speak for aesthetics. All elements are placed on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner made of 16 mm chipboard and PVC edging. In the future, it will be necessary to make insulated housings for the boards to protect live parts from accidental contact.

To power the vacuum cleaner, a three-core flexible cable in rubber insulation KG 3 * 2.5 (5 meters) and a plug with an earthing contact were selected (do not forget about electrical safety and fight against static electricity). Taking into account the short-term intermittent operation of the vacuum cleaner in conjunction with the power tool, the selected cable section is sufficient so as not to heat up. A thicker cable (for example, KG 3 * 4) is correspondingly heavier and coarser, which would create inconvenience when using a vacuum cleaner. It was decided to abandon the device for winding the cable, which was in the donor vacuum cleaner, since the contacts existing there would not withstand the total load of the vacuum cleaner and the power tool.

The top cover is secured with a stud and wing nut.

For the convenience of removing the top cover, the motor is connected to the control circuit through a connector. The motor and vacuum cleaner housing are connected to a protective earth conductor. To cool the regulator circuit, I drilled a small hole in the outlet pipe to create an air flow inside the engine compartment housing.

In order to insert a garbage bag into the bin, I pasted over the upper edge with a rubber door seal cut along the length.

And so that the garbage bag does not get sucked into the cyclone due to air leaks, it is necessary to make a small hole in it.

Completion and testing of the resulting vacuum cleaner took place already at the beginning of the repair, so to speak in "combat" conditions. The traction, of course, is several times more powerful than that of a household vacuum cleaner, which would not be enough for a couple of minutes of working with construction waste. Relatively heavy debris from concrete is almost completely deposited in the bin and the additional filter does not need to be cleaned for a long time, while the draft is uniform and does not depend on the degree of filling of the bin. The dust from the putty (in the form of flour) is very light and, accordingly, is filtered out worse by the cyclone, which makes it necessary to periodically clean the autofilter. The task of making a water vacuum cleaner was not set and therefore no test was carried out for this function.

CONCLUSION and CONCLUSIONS:

The resulting apparatus eventually turned out to be operational and has already passed the test during the repair of one room. Now I consider it rather as a working model from the series "it will work out or not for the sake of interest."

The main disadvantages of this design:

- relatively large dimensions are not convenient for transportation in a car, although the vacuum cleaner moves around the room on wheels very easily. You can use barrels of 30 liters, for example. Operation has shown that such a large waste bin is inconvenient for cleaning, and a bag with big amount debris may tear.

- the diameter of the hose can be increased, for example, up to 50 mm and a hose from an industrial vacuum cleaner can be used (but the question arises of the price from 2000 rubles). Although, even with the existing hose, the debris is collected quite cheerfully, unless of course you try to pull in half of the brick.

- it is necessary to make an easily removable mount for an additional autofilter and engine, for more convenient and efficient maintenance and cleaning.

- a thermal relay can be included in the control circuit (only to determine the response temperature) to protect the motor from overheating.

Poor screening of light fine dust, which can be solved by the introduction of a second stage of smaller cyclones.

In conclusion, I would like to thank all my friends who helped with ideas and materials in the construction of this "pepelats". And a special big thanks to my beloved wife Yulia for supporting me in my hobbies.

I hope my little experience will be useful to the readers.

If a person has his own workshop, then one of the most important issues is cleaning the premises. But unlike cleaning dust in an apartment, an ordinary household vacuum cleaner will not help here, since it is not designed for debris and sawdust - its garbage container (dust collector or bag) will clog up very quickly and become unusable. Therefore, a homemade cyclone filter is often used, which, together with a household vacuum cleaner, will help clean up the workshop.

Introduction

Wood dust and other technical debris, although it seems harmless at first glance, in fact, are fraught with many different dangers, both for the master and for the equipment. For example, continuous operation without protective equipment to prevent dust from entering the respiratory system can cause serious complications. respiratory tract, impair the sense of smell, etc. In addition, the tool that is in the workshop under the influence of dust can quickly fail. This is due to the fact that:

1. dust, mixing with the lubricant inside the tool, forms a mixture that is completely unsuitable for lubricating moving parts, which as a result leads to overheating and further breakdown
2. dust can impede the rotation of the moving parts of the tool, which leads to additional loads, overheating and failure,
3. dust clogs the air ducts designed to ventilate the heated parts of the tool and remove heat from them, resulting in overheating, deformation and failure of them again.

Thus, the issue of the quality of removal of sawing products and, in general, cleaning the room is very acute. Modern power tools are equipped with systems for removing dust and chips directly from the sawing area, which prevents dust from spreading throughout the workshop. In any case, a vacuum cleaner (or chip sucker) is needed for the dust removal process!

There are good industrial vacuum cleaners and if possible, it is better to choose the most the best option for the price and quality and buy a construction vacuum cleaner.

Nevertheless, there are times when there is already a household vacuum cleaner and it is easier to upgrade it and solve the problem of collecting construction waste indoors. To do this, you need to use a cyclone filter - it is done in half an hour with all the necessary elements.

Principle of operation

There are a great many different designs of cyclones, but all of them are united by the same operating principle. All designs of cyclonic chip suckers consist of three main parts:

• Household vacuum cleaner
• Cyclone filter
• Garbage collection container

Its design is such that the flow of the intake air is directed in a circle and its rotational movement is obtained. Accordingly, a centrifugal force acts on the construction waste contained in this air stream (these are large and heavy fractions), which presses it against the walls of the cyclone chamber and, under the action of gravity, it gradually settles in the tank.

The disadvantage of a cyclonic vacuum cleaner is that only dry garbage can be collected in this way, but if there is water in the garbage, then there will be problems with the suction of such a substance.

The vacuum cleaner must be powerful enough, since in its normal operation it is supposed to suck in air through a standard hose. If an additional cyclone filter is used, an additional filter appears in the air path, and the total length of the duct is more than doubled due to the additional duct. Since the design is as maneuverable as a separate vacuum cleaner, the length of the last hose should be sufficient for comfortable work.

Preparatory work

As mentioned above, you can make a cyclone filter for a workshop in half an hour, but for this you need to check the availability of everything you need for the production of a chip sucker with your own hands, namely: tools, materials and consumables.

Instruments

For the production of work, tracking tools will be needed:

1. electric drill,
2. screwdriver,
3. jigsaw,
4. compass,
5. clamps,
6. Phillips screwdriver,
7. pencil,
8. for wood (50-60mm),
9. kit .

Materials and fasteners

Materials can be used both new and used, so carefully review the list below - you may already have something in stock;

1. The air duct (hose) for the vacuum cleaner is corrugated or in a textile braid.
2. A sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm and a length of 100–150 mm, at one end of which the air duct of your household vacuum cleaner must be inserted.
3. Sewer outlet 30 or 45 degrees, 100-200 mm long, at one end of which the air duct specified in clause 1 will be inserted in the future.
4. Bucket ("large") plastic 11-26 liters with a hermetically sealed lid.
5. Bucket ("small") plastic 5-11 liters. Note. It is important that the difference between the two maximum diameters of the buckets is approximately 60–70 mm.
6. Sheet 15–20 mm thick. Note. The sheet size must be larger than the maximum diameter of the Large Bucket.
7. Self-tapping screws for wood with a flat wide head and a length of 2/3 of the thickness.
8. Gel sealant is universal.

table standard sizes round plastic buckets.

Volume, l	Cover diameter, mm	Height, mm
1,0	125	115
1,2	132	132
2,2	160	150
2,3	175	133
2,6	200	124
3,0	200	139
3,4	200	155
3,8	200	177
3,8	200	177
5,0	225	195
11	292	223
18	326	275
21	326	332
26	380	325
33	380	389

Making a cyclone filter

Creating a homemade chip sucker consists of a number of stages:

1. Create anchor ring and shaped insert
2. Installing the retaining ring
3. Installing the side pipe
4. Top entry setting
5. Installing curly insert
6. Assembling the cyclone filter

Create anchor ring and shaped insert

It is necessary to cut off the side of the small bucket, which is used to fasten the lid. As a result, you should get such a cylinder (well, a little on a cone).

We do the markup - we put a small bucket on and draw a line along the edge - we get a circle.

Then we determine the center of this circle (see the school geometry course) and mark out another circle, the radius of which is 30 mm larger than the existing one. Then we mark out the ring and the curly insert, as shown in the figure.

Installing the retaining ring

We fix the ring on the edge of the small bucket so that we get a side. We fix it with self-tapping screws. It is advisable to pre-drill the holes so as not to split.

We mark the roof of the large bucket. For marking, you need to put the bucket itself on the lid of a large bucket and circle its outline. It is better to do the markings with a felt-tip pen, since the trace is clearly visible.

It is important to note that all joints must be sealed, respectively, before installing the cover, you need to coat the joint with sealant. You also need to grease the junction of the wooden ring and the small bucket.

Installing the side pipe

The side pipe is made from a sewer outlet of 30 degrees (or 45 degrees). To install it, you need to drill a hole in the upper part of the small bucket with a crown. Note that the bottom of the small bucket is now the top.

Top entry setting

To make the top entry, you need to drill a hole in the upper part of the chip sucker (small bucket), that is, in the center of the former bottom.

To firmly fix the inlet, you need to use additional element strength in the form of a square billet 20 mm thick with a central hole for a 50 mm branch pipe.

The fixing of this workpiece is carried out from below with four self-tapping screws. Before installation, for tightness, the joint must be greased with a sealant.

Installing curly insert

The shaped insert is a very important component of a homemade chip sucker, it must be fixed inside the cyclone filter, as shown in the photo.

Assembling the cyclone filter

Then it is necessary to correctly connect the air ducts:

1. Upper branch pipe - to a household vacuum cleaner
2. Angled elbow entering at an angle from the side - to the hose.

Homemade cyclone vacuum cleaner(chip sucker) is ready.

Video

Video used for this review:

A home vacuum cleaner is so common in the household that no one thinks about the principle of its operation. Since the invention of this assistant in cleaning premises, it has been used only possible way separating dust from clean air - filter.

Over the years, the filter element has been improved, from a banal bag made of thick tarpaulin, it has turned into high-tech membranes that retain the smallest particles of debris. At the same time, it was not possible to get rid of the main drawback.

Filter designers are constantly looking for a compromise between mesh density and air throughput. In addition, the more contaminated the membrane, the worse the air flow through it.
30 years ago, physicist James Dyson made a breakthrough in dust extraction technology.

He invented a compact dust separator based on the principle of centrifugal force. I must say that this idea was not new. Industrial sawmills have been using cyclone-type centrifugal collectors of opal and shavings for a long time.

But no one thought to apply this physical phenomenon in everyday life. In 1986 he registered a patent for the first cyclone vacuum cleaner, called G-Force.

In general, there are three ways to separate dust from clean air:

1. Filtering membrane. The most massive and cheap way remove dust. It is used in most modern vacuum cleaners;
2. Water filter. Air with debris passes through a container of water (like in a hookah), all particles remain in liquid medium, a perfectly clean air flow enters the outlet. Such devices gained popularity, but their use did not become widespread due to their high cost.
3. Centrifugal dry filter of the "cyclone" type. It is a compromise in terms of cost and quality of purification in comparison with a membrane and a water filter. Let us dwell on this model in more detail.

How the cyclone works

The illustration shows the processes taking place in the cyclone filter chamber.

Contaminated air enters the cylindrical filter housing (2) through the branch pipe (1). The branch pipe is located tangentially to the walls of the body, due to which the air flow (3) is twisted into a spiral along the walls of the cylinder.

Under the action of centrifugal force, dust particles (4) are pressed against the inner walls of the housing, and under the influence of gravity they settle into the dust collector (5). Air with the smallest particles of debris (which are not affected by centrifugal force) enters the chamber (6) with a conventional membrane filter. After final cleaning, they exit into the intake fan (7).

Very often after repair and construction works there is a lot of debris and dust that can only be removed with a powerful vacuum cleaner. Since an ordinary household appliance is not suitable for these purposes, a filter for which may be homemade is used. How to make a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands so that the unit can effectively cope with the cleaning of construction dust?

Those whose work is constantly related to repair, construction and carpentry are not hearsay familiar with the problem of cleaning the premises after the completion of the direct work. Construction wood dust, crumbling plaster, the smallest grains of foam and drywall usually settle in a dense layer on all horizontal surfaces of the room. It is not always possible to wipe it by hand or sweep it with a broom, because with a large area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe room, such cleaning will take a long time. Wet cleaning it is also often impractical: a mixture of water and thick dust is even more difficult to wipe off.

In this case optimal solution – vacuum cleaner application... The standard vacuum cleaner that we are used to in everyday life will not work. First, because of a large number the dust collector will instantly clog up debris, and you will need to clean it at least once every 15-20 minutes. Secondly, the ingress of large particles, such as debris, sawdust or chips, can cause clogging or complete malfunction of the device.

A construction vacuum cleaner is much higher than a household one. The features of its engine provide long work, and the presence of a long hose (3-4 m and more) allows cleaning a wide area.

However, industrial and construction vacuum cleaners are large in size, are not very convenient to use, clean and move, and are not affordable for everyone. Therefore, many craftsmen increase the capabilities of a household vacuum cleaner by supplying it with a special cyclone filter. Such dust collectors can be purchased either ready-made or assembled your own version.

We make a cyclone ourselves

On the worldwide network, you can find many detailed diagrams and drawings of cyclones. Let's give an example of making a simple filter that can be assembled at home, having necessary materials, patience and a little knack. For work you will need:

• Any oil filter for small debris (these can be purchased at auto supply stores).
• Capacity 20-25 l with tightly screwed lid.
• Polypropylene elbow with 45 ° and 90 ° angles.
• The pipe is about a meter long.
• Corrugated hose 2 meters long.

1. Punch a hole in the lid of the main container. Hole width adapts to polypropylene 90 ° elbow.
2. Close existing gaps with sealant.
3. Make another hole on the side wall of the container and attach a 45 ° angle.
4. Connect corrugated hose and knee with a pipe. Tilt the outlet hose towards the bottom so that the air with debris is directed along the required path.
5. You can put on the filter material made of nylon or other permeable fabric in a fine mesh. This will prevent large particles from entering the filter.
6. Next, connect the elbow on the cover and the filter outlet.

Of course, this is only a short and approximate scheme for creating a cyclone. We present to your attention a video, where in detail and on illustrative example shows how to make a filter from scrap materials.

We check the made filter for tightness, as well as for the quality of suction. Garbage should be collected at the bottom of the container or settle on the walls.

If everything is assembled correctly, the suction will be efficient and at high speed.