Any private house constantly exposed to atmospheric precipitation. If, in addition, the soil on the site has an admixture of clay, then the constantly sour soil and puddles standing in the yard will not give your home aesthetics. A storm sewer in a private house is able to cope with the problem of drainage of rainwater. It is quite possible to build it yourself, at the beginning of building a house. Or to lay purposefully, near an already built house, if such work was not carried out in due time.

The main purpose of storm water in a private house is to collect and then drain melt and rainwater from the house and from the site to special catchment devices, into water bodies, into a deep drainage system, outside the site or into a general sewer system. In addition to collection, a well-mounted storm drain in a private house with its own hands is able to cleanse the water that has got into it from impurities and sand. The water leaving the system is clean enough and does not pollute the surrounding areas.

Being a device for surface drainage, the storm drain protects the buildings on the site from movement and destruction. If the soil on the site is constantly wet, then the impact on the foundation of multidirectional skew vectors will affect its strength. As a result of this, subsidence, tilt of the house, and the appearance of cracks on its walls are possible.

Main components of the system

The device of a storm sewer in a private house assumes the presence of the following elements in its composition:

• located on the surface or channels closed type located underground. They are installed taking into account the slope towards the catchment areas. Through them, water enters the reservoirs or is discharged directly outside the site.
• storm water inlets... They are designed to collect water flowing from the roofs of buildings. The most suitable places for their installation are under the downpipes. Storm water inlets are made of plastic or polymer concrete in the form rectangular containers of various volumes and are equipped with a basket for collecting various debris that falls along with the water. From them, water flows through a system of canals into water reservoirs;
• door pallets;
• inspection wells... They are intended for routine inspections and cleaning of channels and pipelines in case of clogging. As a rule, they are equipped at the junctions of the canals and at the points of their intersection, since it is in these places that the risk of clogging of the canals is most likely;
• serve to collect solid particles in the water entering through the channels. Installed on surface storm drains;
• collector well designed for collection and subsequent filtration of water into the soil.

Types of storm sewers

Storm rain in a private house can be linear, point, and also mixed. Each of these types differs in its structure and purpose.

Linear (open type) sewerage

This system easy to manufacture and effective enough. It is a network of surface metal, concrete or. Water enters these channels through drain pipes, heading to the general sewage system or special tanks. On top of the gutters, they are covered with gratings that protect them from debris and also perform decorative functions. The individual gutters are joined together with a sealant to prevent water from entering between the joints.

Read also: and its characteristics.

Such a storm sewer in the country or in country house has a greater coverage, water is collected in it from paths, sidewalks, various sites, and not only from roofs.

The photo shows an example of a storm sewer open type from drainage trays with grates

Tip: When a do-it-yourself open-type storm sewer is being laid, the slope of all gutters must be taken into account. V otherwise, despite the presence of surface channels, water will not flow through them, but will cover the entire area, without having time to go into the catchment areas.

Point (closed type) sewerage

If the choice fell on a storm sewer scheme in a point-type private house, then all water intake pipelines should be located underground. Water flowing down pipes from roofs enters storm water inlets closed by gratings, and from them - into underground canals. Through them, water is diverted to the places intended for it or simply drained outside the boundaries of the site.

Tip: Since the laying of underground utilities presents difficulties in design and construction, its arrangement should be carried out only at the stages of developing projects for the house itself. Later, it will be almost impossible to do such work.

Mixed sewerage

This type of sewage is used in cases where it is necessary to save on labor or financial costs. This system can include both open-type elements and components of a point sewerage system.

Calculating volume, depth and slope

If you want your house and plot to be reliably protected from flooding, silting and streams of dirty rainwater, you need to correctly calculate and lay down the storm sewer in the project. The main calculation of storm sewers is to ensure that all water entering the territory equipped with storm drains leaves without a trace in the places assigned to it and is regulated by SNiP 2.04.03-85.

Calculation of the depth of the channel

If the section underground pipes of conduits does not exceed 0.5 m, then they are buried to a level of 30 cm.With large channel diameters, the depth of the storm sewer in a private house increases up to 70 cm.

If the site has already been laid, then the storm sewer in a private house is located above this system.

Tip: It is recommended to deepen all elements to the level of freezing of the soil, but in practice, you can place them closer to the surface, providing them with insulation by backfilling a layer of rubble and laying geotextiles. This will reduce the cost and labor intensity of earthworks.

Calculation of the volume of wastewater discharged from the site

To calculate the volume of effluents, you must be guided by the following formula: Q = q20 x F x ¥, where:

• Q is the volume that needs to be taken away from the site;
• q20 - the amount of precipitation. These data can be obtained from the meteorological service or taken in the same SNiP 2.04.03-85;
• F is the area from which water will be discharged. With a point system, the projection of the roof area onto a horizontal plane is taken. In the case of equipment linear system all areas involved in wastewater disposal are taken into account;
• ¥ - coefficient that takes into account the coating material with which the site is equipped or the house is covered:

- 0.4 - crushed stone or gravel;

- 0.85 - concrete;

- 0.95 - asphalt;

- 1 - roof.

Calculation of the required slope of the channels

A properly selected slope guarantees the free flow of water through pipelines under the influence of physical laws. The required slope of the storm sewer is determined depending on the diameter of the pipes used. If the pipes have a diameter of 20 cm, then a factor of 0.007 is taken into account. That is, 7 mm by running meter pipes. With a diameter of 15 cm, the coefficient will be 0.008.

The slope of the channels in an open system ranges from 0.003 to 0.005 (this is 3-5 mm). But the pipes connected to storm water inlets and storm wells must have a slope of 2 cm for each running meter.

Installation of stormwater

Before starting work, you must make sure that the house is equipped with water collection and drainage systems (downpipes, risers and gutters).

Sometimes the long-awaited rain for the summer resident at the height of the season can become true natural disaster... Due to a prolonged summer downpour or during a spring flood, a large puddle may form on the site.

To avoid stagnation of water, a collection system is needed, as well as its removal from the territory. But if you take care of the construction of a storm sewer with your own hands, then the costs of its construction will be insignificant.

In our article, we will learn about the principle of atmospheric water drainage, get acquainted with the components of the structure and the features of its maintenance. Adhering to our advice, you will not have any questions about the organization of stormwater. You also have the opportunity to purchase storm sewers and all the necessary components at a discount on the website https://www.drenaj-shop.ru/catalogue/livnevaya-kanalizatsiya/, if you indicate that you came on our recommendation.

How to make a storm drain?

It should be said right away that this is a rather specific design. The water that is discharged through this system contains both large and small debris. Therefore, in the storm sewer, there must be a primary treatment.

The system itself may differ constructive performance, the volume of water that it can accept and the duration of effective functioning.

Point water intake of stormwater.

Storm sewer Is a system of water intakes, canals, sand traps, collector and inspection wells arranged underground. It is used to collect and drain rainwater from the area.

Installation of channels and installation of storm water inlets.

The device of this type of sewage system will prevent flooding of the site during floods and during heavy rainfall, which is extremely important for an area dominated by clay soils.

Protection of the foundation structure from loosening.

Storm sewage will protect the underground parts of structures from erosion by water, and also exclude subsidence of the foundations as a result of eroded soil underneath.

Components for the assembly of stormwater.

Now for the arrangement of storm sewers, a large number of components are produced, from which you can easily assemble a system of varying degrees of complexity.

Based on the design of the system, there are three types of stormwater:

• Closed. This option is more complicated. Here we are talking about underground pipes and storm water inlets. Ideally, the system should be planned in advance, and the installation should be entrusted to a professional.

• Open. Differs in simple design, convenience in execution, favorable price.

• Mixed. They resort to this type when there is not enough money to implement the second option, or if it is necessary to cover a large area. It is a cross between the first two.

The Type 1 system is below the zero point, which implies extensive excavation and associated financial investment.

Storm sewage type 2 is a system of drainage trays that are built into the covering. Water flows through them to a specially designated place or is drained into the garden.

Important! Surface drainage can perfectly fit into the landscape design of your site, and even become its decoration. This system is used in small rooms.

Basically, such a storm drain is equipped during the development of the site, since it is a simpler freezing option in execution. The system is not buried too deeply - up to 1 meter, but it is not used in work both in winter and early spring.

To exclude its freezing, the pipes must be placed below the freezing point. With 3 types of storm sewers, its elements can be found partially both in the soil and on top.

According to experts, the choice of such expensive option, as a closed type storm drain, must be justified. This decision is justified by the high requirements for the arrangement of the territory.

It is worth noting that the design of the stormwater is always individual. It is unlikely that you will be able to find plots with identical conditions. They always differ, if not in relief, then in soil properties, layout, and the number of ancillary buildings.

Storms are required both at the enterprise and on private premises. The main differences in their design are that large-scale systems are combined with the discharge of treated water, which are used for the needs of the enterprise.

The main components of a classic sewage system

Levnevka can be linear and point. The first option involves picking up liquid from non-absorbent surfaces such as a paved deck and roof. Subsequently, the effluent is directed to the receiving tanks, and then enters the drainage system.

With a linear method of drainage, water should be drained into trays located near platforms and paths. A simplified version of the stormwater drain consists of the following elements:

• a central pipe laid under a layer of earth, as well as a finishing coating and leading water to the extreme point of the scheme.

• trays - the most important detail a system that transports excess water to sand traps (the latter largely determines how effective the drainage system will be);

• a storm water inlet located at a low point in the yard or under a pipe to collect liquid;

• distributors and filters - invisible, but no less important components.

All elements of the system are equally important. If one of them breaks down, the efficiency of the entire structure decreases.

Storm water inlet of point type.

Point storm water inlets are used to receive atmospheric precipitation at one point. They are simpler and cheaper to install, but require underground pipes to drain the water down the drain.

Connection to the drainage system.

Point storm water inlets are located so that they receive water that is collected from the roof of the drainage system. At such points, a stormwater drain is sometimes connected to a drain.

Point sewerage device.

The drainage of rainwater, which was collected by the point sewage system, is carried out through a pipeline laid in the ground. That, the priorities of the ordinary installation of storm water inlets are minimized.

Paving the square with storm water.

The disadvantages of a chiseled storm drain are the possibility of soil subsidence with a change in the slope of the pipeline, the difficulty of determining a leak when it appears and the need to protect pipes by placing an equipped site.

Types of storm water inlets for sewerage

The main purpose of the storm water inlet is to collect water coming from the courtyard cover and pipes. Such an element is the first to receive the volume of water that comes from the drainpipes. When choosing a storm water inlet, it is guided by data such as the average amount of precipitation, its intensity, area and relief occupied by storm sewers.

Stormwater drain with a linear water intake.

The technology of stormwater devices depends on the type of water intake device that was chosen for its construction.

System with point rainwater receivers.

Such a system consists of pipes laid in the ground.

Installation of storm sewer trays.

Storm sewage with water intakes is a network of canals closed with a special grating made of plastic, steel alloy or cast iron, depending on the required bearing capacity.

Special protective and decorative grille.

Both linear and point water intakes are covered with special protective and decorative grilles. They are required for the convenience and safety of moving around the site, as well as protecting the system from clogging with branches, foliage and dust.

You can buy a plastic or cast iron gully. The former are best used at high loads, while the latter are attractive for their low weight, moderate cost and ease of installation. More a budget option- make a rainwater well for storm water in your dacha with your own hands from bricks.

The walls of the pit are finished with bricks, leaving holes for the tube, after which they are plastered from the inside. Ideally, leave a gap between the cover and the soil wall and fill it with concrete. In this case, the bottom of the stormwater inlet must be concreted.

Important! Not a single storm sewer can do without a storm water inlet. It preserves both the structure of the building's foundation and the covering around it. If you decide to save on its installation, then water falling on the foundation will lead to cracks and shrinkage on the walls of the building.

This important element make of concrete rings... Then you can buy a bottom ring with a finished bottom, and you don't have to fill the slab. Sometimes factory storm water inlets are already sold with a siphon, basket and decorative grill.

Storm water inlets from composite materials or plastic, used in most cases for private construction, are produced in the form of a fore cube, each side of which is 30-40 cm. There are adapters below and on all sides of the product for tapping pipes.

Important! The grids for storm water inlets may have a different quantity, and they may differ in price. It is always necessary to make a start from the expected loads on them during operation.

To prevent the pipes from clogging up with debris falling through the grid cells, it is necessary to equip the storm water inlets with baskets. When they are full, they are cleaned and taken out, after which they are returned to their place.

The design of the factory storm water inlet has partitions that divide it inner space onto the compartments, thereby forming a water seal. Consequently, bad smell does not penetrate outside.

The efficiency of a point rainwater inlet depends not only on the volume, but also on the installation site itself. It should be located under a drain or where moisture often collects. If it is located under the pipe, then the jets must fall strictly into the center of the grate, otherwise part of the water will fall on the yard covering or the foundation in the form of splashes.

What is the task of grit traps?

Melt and rainwater in any case contains a certain percentage of insoluble particles. If you do not use sand traps, dirt will settle in the sewer, and it will no longer cope with its tasks in full. Note that flushing the system is expensive.

A sand trap is a chamber that is installed behind point receivers in places where liquid is discharged into underground pipes. It is designed in such a way that water, falling on it, slows down.

As a result, under the influence of the pulling force, the suspended particles sink to the bottom, and the liquid released from them leaves through a special hole. The sand trap in its shape is a chamber in vertical design or traps with big amount cameras placed horizontally.

Sand trap built into the storm water inlet.

Point storm water inlets are equipped with water filtration and sand retention devices. In fact, this system does not require additional sand trapping components.

Sand trap in combined systems.

In combined systems, sand traps are installed in linear sections and before discharge to the absorber / collector.

Sand trap for public stormwater.

The volume and dimensions of the sand trap depend on the amount of water collected, as well as the class of the storm sewer.

Household system trap device.

Regardless of the size, all types of sand catchers are equipped with sand collection devices that allow affordable and in a simple way empty the device.

Drainage channels: what are they?

If the blind area around the building has already been made, but there is no drain, the only way out of the situation is to use a drainage gutter, which is called linear storm water inlets. Channels made of plastic or concrete are laid outside the blind area parallel to the overhangs of the cover and paths with a slight slope.

The drainage linear channels receive water from both roof gutters and from the yard covered with slabs or asphalt. Such a sewage system is capable of covering much more objects than a point one. When buying ready-made trays, you need to pay attention to such important characteristics as the limits of mechanical strength and grade permissible load.

Important! At first glance, the tray is a simple product, but if you make a wrong calculation, then the system will not be able to work fully. It is necessary to take into account the type of coverage, and the throughput of the stormwater and the level of pollution of the discharged water.

The weakest products are labeled A15. It means that their use is only permitted with a maximum permissible load of up to 1.5 tons. They are installed around the entire perimeter of the house, pedestrian and bicycle areas. B125 class trays can handle loads up to 12.5 tons without compromising their integrity. You don't have to worry about them dropping under the weight of the car, as they are designed to be installed in the garage area.

As for private construction, you should not buy powerful concrete gutters, plastic trays are suitable here. They have strength class A, B, C. Polypropylene or polyethylene is used as a material for their manufacture.

An important indicator when choosing trays is the hydraulic section, which is designated by the abbreviation DN. The main thing is that it corresponds to the diameter of the pipes that are led to these components. For plastic gutters, the DN value varies from 70 to 300.

The standard tray is 1 meter long. The products are equipped with a locking system, with the help of which the gutters can be lined up, made branches or connected to pipes. A rational choice for a private house or summer cottage - models from DN100 to DN200.

Trays with different capacity.

The manufacturers of stormwater drainage kits offer wide choose trays that differ in capacity and used material.

Storm drainage device made of steel parts.

For the construction of areas with a pedestrian load, the components of the storm sewer are made of galvanized steel. It may not be the most durable option, but it attracts with the simplicity of the structure.

Concrete gutters.

Polymer sand and concrete products can last at least fifty years. They can easily withstand transport loads, including the weight of cargo units. But due to the need to use special equipment in stacking due to the large weight of trays, they are not so often used in the private sector.

A practical plastic option.

Trays made of special frost-resistant polypropylene are actively in demand in landscaping sites. They do not lose strength and do not deform even at temperatures of -40 +65 degrees. Great for self-arrangement territory.

Features of the choice of pipes

According to SNiP for storm sewers, pipes made of asbestos, metal or plastic can be used. Usually, for a summer residence or a private house, the choice is made on plastic pipes. They are decorative, lightweight, do not corrode, their installation is extremely simple, but the mechanical strength of plastic, in comparison with metal, is relatively low.

After choosing the material, you need to decide on the diameter of the pipes.

The initial value is the largest volume of melt and rainwater discharged. This parameter is determined by the following formula:

Q = q20 × F × Ψ

Here: Q- the required volume ‚ q20- coefficient ‚showing the intensity of precipitation over 20 seconds. (liters per second per 1 ha). F- the area of ​​the courtyard in hectares, if you have pitched roof The area is calculated along the horizontal plane. Ψ - absorption coefficient.

Different surfaces have their own absorption coefficient. To perform independent calculations, you can take its values ​​from the table.

Starting from the calculated value and using the Lukin table, they find not only the slope and diameter of the system.

Most often, home storm sewers are equipped with pipes with a diameter of 100 mm. From this table you can take the optimal slope of the drains.

Correctly choosing the diameter of the storm drain will cope with the task even during the period of heavy rainfall. If flows from several troughs enter the tube, then all of them are summed up. Experts for gutters with a diameter of 110 mm and pipes with the same diameter, as a rule, apply a slope of 20 mm / rm.

In the event that the pipe is connected to a stormwater inlet, the slope is slightly increased in order to exclude stagnation of liquid, but when entering the sand trap, the slope value is reduced. This slows down the flow of water, and the suspended particles in a large number sink to the bottom.

Water in a sewer of this type drains by gravity, which is due to the created slope of the drainage pipe. There are no pressure pumps here, so it is not necessary to hire a team of specialists in a suburban courtyard or in a dacha to arrange a storm drain. The whole range of works can be done independently.

Where is a collector and a well needed?

As in any system that consists of underground pipes, the stormwater must have an element such as a well.

Its installation is advisable under the following circumstances:

• if two or more streams converge;
• when it is necessary to radically change the height, slope or direction of the pipeline;
• if necessary, switch to larger diameter pipes.

Wells are also used at established intervals of straight sections of the system. In the event that the diameter of the well is not more than 150 cm, then the next one is at a distance of 30 to 35 m.With a diameter of 200 mm, the distance increases - from 45 to 50 m, and if the diameter is 0.5 m, then the interval increases even more - up to 70-75 m.

The diameter of the well does not exceed 1 m. The deeper the well is, the larger its diameter will be.

Today, some owners still lay out wells from reinforced concrete rings or bricks in the old fashioned way. Others prefer a more advanced material - fiberglass or plastic. By design, wells are solid and collapsible.

In shape, they are made in the form of a cylinder with an opening at the top and a sealed bottom. To connect pipes, branch pipes are used. Several assembled storm water inlets are also used as wells.

All fluid flows go into the collector after they are combined into a single whole. For this element, the choice of material is individual and depends on the capabilities and preferences of the owner.

To redirect the collected water into the gutter or for ground treatment, another element is included in the system - a collector. Sometimes a large plastic well is used as it. It is converted into a storage device by tightly closing the outlet pipes. In order to use water, a special submersible pump is used.

Large section pipes are also used under the collector - plastic or reinforced concrete with all pipelines supplied to them. Also on the construction market you can buy a ready-made container for underground use. There are multi-chamber tanks where thawed and rainwater are cleaned according to exactly the same principle as in septic tanks.

Collector well designed to redirect water.

If the site does not have conditions for the disposal of water into the ground, then storm water is redirected to a gutter or a public system outside the site.

Absorption well, consisting of perforated rings.

If the size and conditions of the site allow, the collected rainwater is discharged into an absorbing well. When arranging a well in sandy loam soils, the walls are assembled from special perforated rings, which increases the outflow rate.

Inexpensive absorption well option.

A filter well made from old tires is great option which is almost free. At the same time, he copes well with his task.

Discharge of rainwater into a ditch.

It is much easier to collect and divert rainwater into a gutter that does not need significant post-treatment.

How to install a storm sewer?

The stormwater drain is installed according to the same principle as an ordinary sewage system. In any case, the design of the stormwater system is preceded by the calculation and selection of the necessary materials. Before entering the pipes, water collects on the roof of the house, so construction must start from the top of the building.

To install gutters on the roof, you need to place the lower and upper points, between which the line is stretched. On such a route, gutters are installed, taking into account the slope. The direction for their installation depends on the location of the gutter pipes.

To fix pipes and gutters, brackets are installed, securing them with self-tapping screws. In order for the liquid to enter the drain, funnels are required at the lower points. Collecting pipes and trays, a sealant is applied to the joints. In some cases, there are special factory seals on the edges of the parts, then when they are joined, a reliable connection will be obtained.

The water collected in the gutters from the roof flows through vertical gutters into the storm sewer. The complex of works on the arrangement of storm sewers, regardless of their complexity, includes the following stages:

1. Trenching technique or by hand.

For the device of such a sewage system, a trench must be developed. The soil is dug by hand, and the asphalt can be destroyed with ordinary scrap or special equipment.

1. Laying concrete-sand mortar at the bottom of the trench.

Fill the bottom of the trench with mobile concrete to the depth of the tray so that the shelves of the tray are flush with the surface. Make a slope of the trench 2-3 cm by 1 m. The slope should be directed towards the collection well.

1. Assembling the stormwater tray.

Having beaten off the stormwater lines with a string stretched between the pegs, we assemble a system from trays with a special protective and decorative lattice. Channels must be leveled according to the design slope rating before the concrete starts to set.

1. Installation and connection of sand traps.

In the places indicated in the project, sand traps must be installed, then connected to the channels laid in the trench.

1. Formwork construction and further concrete pouring.

Build plank formwork along the side of the trench and pour mortar between it and the trench placed in the trench.

1. Aligning the system when pouring.

When filling the free space with concrete, we level the poured massif. At the same time, we check the slope, and, if necessary, correct the position of the trays.

1. Paving the site with the surface of your choice.

After a technological break, dismantle the formwork, level the site with gravel and sand, and then pave it with paving slabs or some other selected coating.

Point drainage of melt and rain water

The first stage is the marking of the pipeline, which consists of receivers, channels and channels. Pegs are driven in at the points of location of all components. For a complete picture, you need to lay a cord between the pegs.

The next stage is digging a trench, as well as small depressions for storm water inlets. At the bottom, you need to install a sand pillow.

If there is a threat of root sprouting in the places where the pipeline is laid, the bottom should be covered with geotextiles. The installation itself begins with the installation of collectors, wells. The next small items in turn are sand traps, storm water inlets and trays. All this is combined with pipes of the required diameter under the recommended SNiP slope or a selected indicator from the table. There should be no sagging when laying the pipeline.

Now you need to experience assembled structure... Water must be spilled on each area in order to assess the tightness of the joints. In this case, the amount of inlet and outlet water should be approximately the same. At this point, you may find sagging (if the difference in inlet and outlet fluid volumes is different).

In the event that testing does not reveal any problems, the system must be backfilled with soil and a sand-cement layer. In some cases, some details of the stormwater are combined with the drainage system. In this case, the pipes of the first should be located on top of the second pipeline, but they can come to one collector.

The combination of storm sewers with ordinary household ones should not be allowed. Otherwise, it can overload the second and provoke many negative consequences.

Let us consider, for example, the construction of a storm sewer with point water intakes. It was built from simple sewer pipes. The reason for this is stagnation of water on the surface, which is formed due to the absence of infiltration into the ground, associated with the clay structure of the soil.

1. Gutter device without storm sewer.

The arrangement of the drainage system at the site has caused the need for a storm drain. The water collected by the drain was discharged to the ground and was not absorbed into the ground for a long time.

1. Development of a trench for a storm sewer.

We dig trenches at the corners of the roof and downpipes, which should be perpendicular to the foundation, so as not to develop a wide development, and also to reduce the amount of land work.

1. Trench construction around the entire perimeter of the house.

At a distance of about 1 meter from the walls of the building, we dig a trench - it should be located along the walls. The main pipes with a diameter of 160 mm will be laid in it, to which we will attach the outlets from the drain, assembled from sewage pipes with a diameter of 110 mm.

1. Laying sewer pipes for bedding.

To make a slope towards the flow of collected water, you need to fill the bottom of the trench with sand and tamp it with the necessary slope. On the main sections, you will get 3 slopes per 1 meter, and on the branch sections, approximately 10 cm.

1. Installing a plug on a pipe.

Install temporary plugs on the pipes located vertically, which in the future we will connect to the downpipes. In this way, you can protect the system from sand entering during work.

1. Backfilling of short trenches with branches.

We fill up a trench with a storm sewer with sewer sand. You should not use "native" soil, as it is clayey. This will partially create conditions for the rapid melting of snow during melting.

1. Laying of main pipes with the required slope.

It is necessary to lay the main pipes so that a slope is formed in the direction of the movement of water towards unloading. As a result, all trunk sections should be inclined. According to the rules on turns, it is necessary to put special rotary wells for cleaning, but in this example they were not used.

1. Corner connection of a special branch pipe.

If you cannot connect the drainage drainage section at a right angle, connect it at a sharp point, but keep in mind that the angle should be directed towards the water drain.

When the lines are laid with the correct slope, bends will be connected to them and the tightness of all connections is observed (tightness is not needed to protect the soil from rainwater, but to prevent sand from entering the system), you can connect the storm sewer to the pipe, which is discharged into the absorbing well :

1. Changing the slope by pouring sand under the pipes.

Check the slope of the unfilled sections of the trench with sand. If necessary, we correct the slope, for which we pour sand under the pipes and carefully tamp them.

1. Assembling the assembly for connection to the discharge pipe.

To the pipe that receives water from all sections, you need to connect 2 main pipes and 1 corner outlet from the corner of the roof. Connect pipes in series with elbow fittings.

Storm drainage prevention

Having made a storm sewer with your own hands, do not forget that it requires constant care. Prevention includes cleaning point stormwater inlets and trays from debris that has settled in them.

If you neglect this procedure, the system will crash. Optimal solution- use the system all year round.

Attention! Self-regulating cable can heat a large area. Its design is based on a semiconductor matrix, which is located between two copper conductors. This cable will prevent any pipes from freezing when the temperature drops.

In winter, thaws occur, during which water from the drainage system enters the pipes and canals. It then moves into the storm sewer, freezes there and turns into ice.

To exclude the formation of ice plugs in the storm sewer, the self-regulating cable is inserted into the storm water inlets located under the drainpipes. So in the heated system there will be no ice jams, and when they form, you can easily get rid of them.

conclusions

Despite the fact that the storm sewer is a complex engineering system, its creation will be within the power of even an inexperienced person in construction. Just stick with everyone step-by-step actions and your storm sewer will serve you for years.

Do not forget to leave comments in the block below. Be sure to share your experience with stormwater drainage. Share your impressions and ask questions!

So that there is no flood on the site after each rain, so that the foundation is not wet and does not collapse, it is necessary to ensure the drainage of precipitation. This requires a rainwater drain. We can see it in cities - it is a system of devices for receiving water and canals. The storm sewer in a private house is smaller, but its essence is the same. This is not to say that it is easy to do it, but you can cope on your own, especially if you have already done something on the site with your own hands.

What is a storm sewer system of a private house and what is it like

In regions with a large amount of precipitation, it is necessary to divert rain and melt water somewhere. If this is not done, the paths are gradually destroyed, the earth in the yard becomes limp, and then dries up for a long time. If you have not yet made a blind area around the house, rainwater will wash away and gradually destroy the foundation. In general, a storm sewer in a private house is a guarantee of the longevity of your home, order and a neat appearance on your site. This kind engineering systems also called storm water drainage or rainwater drainage.

The composition of the system is as follows:

Where to put the water

Most of the questions arise with what to do with the precipitation, which is rapidly approaching. Firstly, a storm sewer in a private house can become a supplier of water for irrigation. To do this, all pipes of the system are brought together into a large container or several containers, and from there, with the help of a pump, they can be pumped into the irrigation system.

Secondly, if there is nothing to water or there is nowhere to put such a volume of liquid, you can drain storm water into a centralized sewage system, a gutter located near a reservoir. If these possibilities cannot be realized, they arrange a system for dumping water into the ground. It is perforated plastic pipes buried below ground level.

Types and their features

Storm sewage in a private house can be of three types:

In each case, you have to design your own scheme - there is no single recipe. Each has its own plot with its features: soil absorbency, relief, buildings, planning.

What exactly needs to be done is to divert the water away from the house. This can be done as in the photo above - by installing gutters in the path and draining the water onto the lawn. But this is just one of many options. The second place where it is desirable to divert water is a vast paved area. As a rule, large puddles form here, which are difficult to deal with. The problem can be solved by making one or several water collection points - to put point storm water inlets and drain the water according to one of the recipes.

Combined or separate

Often in a private house it is necessary to make three drainage systems at once:

• drainage;
• storm.

They often run parallel or close to each other. Naturally, there is a desire to save money and combine the storm drain with some other. In particular, use an existing well. I must say right away that it is better not to do this. Why? During a rainstorm, water arrives at a very high speed. On average - from 10 cubic meters per hour (maybe more). At this rate of water flow, the well fills up very quickly. It happens that it overflows.

If the discharge goes into a sewer well, water begins to flow into the sewer pipes. It will not rise above the ground level, but you will not be able to lower anything either - everything will be in the plumbing. After lowering the water level, debris remains inside. It interferes with the normal operation of the sewage system, you have to clean it. Not a pleasant experience.

Simultaneous laying of all systems on the site - the main thing is not to get confused

If the discharge goes into a drainage well, the situation is even worse. During a rainstorm, water enters the system under high pressure. It fills the pipes, then pours out under the foundation, undermining it. You can imagine the consequences. There are still not so obvious things. For example, silting drainage pipes... It is unrealistic to clean them, you have to change them. And this is a big expense and a lot of work.

So from all that has been said, we can draw a conclusion. First, a storm sewer in a private house must have its own well. The second - it is desirable that he was big size... This is if you are not lucky to have a pond, lake or river nearby.

Stormwater components and their types

All elements of the storm sewer in a private house must be connected to the system. Here's what it can consist of:

• Well. It should be large. How much depends on the amount of rainfall, the size of the roof and the area from which the water is collected. Most often it is made from concrete rings. It differs from water only by the need to make the bottom. For this, you can put a ring with a bottom down (there are factory ones), or you can fill the stove yourself. Another option is plastic wells for rainwater drainage. They are buried to the required depth, anchored (chained) to the poured concrete platforms so that they do not "float". The good solution is that there is no need to worry about the tightness of the seams - such vessels are completely sealed.

  

• A hatch above the stormwater well. It is best to take a ring and a separate hatch (plastic, rubber or metal - your choice). In this case, you can dig in the rings so that the upper edge of the installed cover is 15-20 cm below ground level. Under the installation of the hatch, you will have to lay out a brick or pour a neck out of concrete, but the lawn planted on top will feel good and will not differ in color from the rest of the planting. If you take a finished cover with a hatch, you can pour only 4-5 cm of soil. On such a layer of soil, the lawn will differ in color and density, paying attention to what is under it.

  

• Point storm water inlets. These are relatively small containers that are installed in places where precipitation accumulates. They are placed under the drainpipes, at the lowest points of the site. The bodies of storm water inlets can be made of plastic or concrete. Concrete ones are used in the device of deep-laid storm water. They are put one on one, achieving the required height. Although today there are already built-on plastic storm water inlets.

  

• Linear storm water inlets or drainage channels. These are plastic or concrete gutters. These devices are installed in places with the greatest rainfall - along the eaves of the roof, if a drainage system has not been made, along pedestrian paths. Can be installed under gutters as gutters. This option is good if you have not laid pipes for water drainage. In this case, the receivers are placed outside the blind area, and the other end of the tray is connected to it. This is a way to make storm sewers without destroying the blind area.

  

• Sand traps. Special devices in which sand is deposited. Usually they put plastic cases - they are inexpensive, but reliable. They are installed at some distance from each other in extended sections of the pipeline. Sand and other heavy inclusions are deposited in them. These devices need to be cleaned periodically, but this is much more convenient than cleaning the entire system.

  

• Lattices. In order for the water to drain better, the holes in the grate must be large. They are:
  
• Pipes. For storm sewers, it is best to set polyethylene pipes for outdoor use (red). Their smooth walls do not allow the accumulation of sediments, and they also have a higher conductivity than pipes of a similar diameter made of other materials. Cast iron and asbestos pipes are also used. A little about the diameter of the stormwater pipes. It depends on the amount of precipitation, the branching of the system. But the smallest diameter is 150 mm, or better - more. The pipes are laid with a slope of at least 3% (3 cm per meter) towards the storm water inlets, and then towards the well.

  

• Revision wells. These are small plastic or concrete wells, which are placed on an extended section of the pipeline, at the branch points of the system. Through them, if necessary, clean the pipes.

  

  On extended sections, revision points are needed - to clear possible blockages in pipes

The storm sewer in a private house does not always contain all these devices, but it is possible to build a system of any configuration and complexity from them.

Construction procedure

In general, first you need to create a project. If there is no opportunity or desire to use the services of professionals, draw it to scale (on a piece of paper or in one of the programs). So you can quite accurately determine what you need and how much. By purchasing necessary materials you can start work.

First, a gutter system is installed. Then the installation of the storm sewer begins. It makes sense to carry out this work simultaneously with laying drainage and sewerage systems, as well as carry out work on the preparation of the laying of paths and blind areas. All of these jobs require soil removal, so why not do it all at once?

Installation of a storm water inlet - pour concrete and "load" something heavy so as not to squeeze out

If other systems are already in place or are simply not needed, trenches can be dug. They should be 10-15 cm deeper than the required depth. Crushed stone is poured at the bottom of the trenches, and pipes are laid in it, devices are placed. Crushed stone will neutralize the heaving forces: it always remains mobile, so that under loads it simply moves from place to place. As you know, the load devices installed in it hardly feel any load.

When installing storm water inlets, they are concreted. A formwork is placed around, it is poured with a layer of concrete 15-20 cm. It must be calculated so that the finishing coating that you are going to lay normally "lays down".

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High-quality storm water drainage is an important system in a private house. It provides a quick drainage of melt or rainwater, excluding their accumulation in the ground around the building. The presence of such a system prevents premature destruction of the foundation, the formation of puddles in the yard. There are both budgetary and more expensive and reliable storm sewer options. You can install each of them on your own.

Features of the device of storm sewers

The manufacture of storm sewers, as in the photo, must necessarily begin with drawing up drawings, determining optimal view system, selection of its components. The most simple solution is the installation of ground concrete gutters, which will divert precipitation outside the area to be developed. This system is ideal for small country houses.

Storm sewers can be laid with their own hands and underground or have a combined type (above ground + underground). It is optimal to carry out work on the installation of such systems immediately after the construction of a house or when arranging a courtyard adjacent to the structure of the territory. Naturally, removing asphalt or tiles for the manufacture of storm sewers is inconvenient: the procedure will take too long and lead to a significant waste of money.

The structure of the storm sewer in a private house

The created storm sewer in the country or near a private house should consist of a roof drain and pipes / gutters on the territory. Therefore, the main elements of the system include:

• gutters, plugs and fittings;
• funnels, downpipes, pipe holders;
• water intakes (under the grate on the porch, under the drainpipes);
• trays, gutters;
• sand traps, sewer pipes, fittings.

For underground laying, it is recommended to use metal-plastic pipes: They are durable, reliable and affordable. Downpipes are usually made of steel and coated with protective paint. Trash boxes, trays and gutters can be made of concrete, plastic, steel.

How to make a storm drain without errors?

First of all, the owner must make detailed diagram, on which the locations of the elements will be indicated. Additionally, you need to calculate the required number of pipes, sand traps, water intakes. Next, the installation of the storm sewer is carried out according to the following instructions:

• Dig trenches for storm water inlets, sand traps and pipes.
• Prepare a cushion of rubble, taking into account the slope of the pipes towards the collector or to another place of water drainage.
• Lay geotextiles along the trenches to protect pipes from freezing.
• Carry out the installation of storm water inlets, laying pipes, buried gutters. Check the quality of the connection of the elements.
• Wrap the pipes with geotextiles. Fill crushed stone into trenches (excluding its getting into storm water inlets, sand traps and gutters).
• Cover the rubble above the pipes with sand / earth. Install grids above the gutters and gutters to prevent debris from entering the compartments. Connect the outlet pipe to the manifold or simply lead it off the site.

In order for the finished system to cope with the assigned tasks, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the region when choosing elements. For areas where rain is common throughout the year, it is recommended to use oversized drainage components. Otherwise, problems with water drainage may arise.

Puddles that appear after rain are a fairly common occurrence, but few people think that it is quite dangerous for owners of private houses, since it can lead to flooding of the building and destruction of its supports.

To avoid unpleasant consequences, experts recommend equipping storm sewers. How to do this will be discussed in this article.

Features and purpose

Stormwater or, as it is often called, rainwater drainage is a system water pipes, as well as filters and various devices used to effectively remove excess moisture from adjoining territory. This is the main task of the stormwater drainage, but the set of functions is not limited to drainage:

• with the help of a rainfall system, it is possible to organize watering of a garden and a vegetable garden in a personal plot, the positive effect of melt water on the growth and development of plants is known to every summer resident;
• increasing the durability of the building and improving the strength and strength of its supports - this is due to the fact that rainwater drainage excludes excessive flooding of the foundation, and in addition, prevents the development of fungus and mold;
• high-quality filtration of water and its purification from sand and other types of impurities;
• maintaining integrity paving slabs and asphalt pavements, which are often destroyed by the impact of jets of water;
• minimizing the risk of water inflow into the basement;
• complete elimination of the formation of puddles and mud on the site after rain.

Storm sewer components

The device of rainwater drainage in a private house and in the country presupposes the presence of some constituent elements in its structure.

Well

In previous years, it was believed that it must certainly be large, but modern industry offers wells of various volumes, the choice of which is determined by the dimensions of the roof, the size of the site and the average rainfall in a particular region. As a rule, wells are made of concrete rings, and the lower ring must be equipped with a bottom - this is exactly what distinguishes simple wells from storm ones.

Plastic wells can also be used to create an efficient rainwater drainage system. They are buried to the required depth, set on a concrete pad and chained with strong chains to avoid floating.

Plastic containers are good because they are completely sealed, unlike designs assembled from rings.

Manhole over the well

The hatches can be made from various materials- rubber, plastic or metal, the choice here depends only on the personal preferences of the homeowner. Regardless of what composition is used, the well should be dug in so that the upper edge of its cover is 15-20 cm below the ground surface.

Under the installation of the hatch, a mouth of brick is often laid out, this allows you to plant a lawn or flowers on top in such a way that the site does not stand out from the rest of the landings.

However, many people purchase a ready-made cover with a hatch. In this case, the soil is covered with a thinner layer - only 4-5 cm, however, the lawn will differ in density from the rest of the areas, drawing attention to what is located under it. Most often, hatches are produced in black. However, you can also find red and yellow versions on sale.

Point storm water inlets

These are small-sized reservoirs, which are fixed in places of the greatest accumulation of precipitation, for example, under drainpipes and in the lowest parts of the yard. They are made of concrete or plastic, and the former are often used to equip deep storm sewers. In this case, they are mounted on top of each other, achieving the required height. However, more recently, built-on plastic storm inlets have appeared on sale.

Sand traps

These are devices that are used to accumulate settling sand and other heavy inclusions. Most often they are made of plastic, they are distinguished by low cost, but at the same time they exhibit extremely high performance characteristics. Trash boxes are usually mounted at a certain distance from each other.

Such devices need periodic cleaning, it is much easier and faster to do this than to clean the entire drainage system.

Lattice

The grates are installed so that the water leaves as much as possible. There are the following lattice options:

• cast iron- reliable and durable products, however, the paint on them lasts no more than 3 years, significantly reducing the overall aesthetics of the structure;
• steel- the cheapest option, but the lowest quality - steel is prone to corrosion, therefore, even after 1-2 years, such gratings begin to rust;
• aluminum- not pure metal is used here, but its alloys, such options are most preferable, since they differ in strength and attractive design, but their cost is quite high.

Pipes

Not a single storm drain is complete without pipes, as a rule, products made of red polyethylene are used. They have smooth walls, which significantly improves their throughput. However, you can stop at cast iron or asbestos options, they can also work smoothly for a long time, providing an effective drain.

The diameter of the pipes largely depends on the general branching of the system, but it must be borne in mind that it should not be less than 15 cm, it is optimal if the diameter is larger.

Revision wells

These are small-sized wells made of plastic or concrete; they are installed in cases where the pipeline has a rather long length or numerous branches. They are used to clean pipes in case of blockages.

It should be noted that not every rainwater drain contains all of these components, but it is possible to build effective system any level of complexity.

Types of storm sewers

There are several main types of storm sewers installed in private houses.

Open

This is a fairly simple system that can be equipped even on your own. It consists of a network of surface gutters, into which water enters through drainpipes, and from there it enters special reservoirs or the general sewage system.

The gutters are made of metal, plastic or concrete, they are covered from above with gratings that protect them from the ingress of large debris, and in addition, they perform a decorative function.

Such a system in a private house can have a fairly large coverage, it collects excess moisture from the sidewalks, garden paths and other types of sites.

Closed

This type of stormwater is also called point, in this case all water intakes are located underground. The mechanism of their action is simple: water, flowing down pipes from the roofs, enters special storm water inlets, and already moves along them into underground channels, from where it is discharged outside the site.

Mixed

This system assumes the simultaneous use of open and closed elements, this method is used when it is necessary to build an effective drainage system in a limited budget.

Drainage types

Quite often, in cottages and private houses, several drainage options are equipped at once: sewer, drainage and stormwater. As a rule, they are located close to each other around the site and run parallel.

Quite often, the owners of the site have a natural desire to save money and combine the storm drain with elements of other types of drainage, for example, to use a ready-made well. However, this should not be done, since during heavy rain, the liquid enters the well rather quickly, the average flow rate is 10 cubic meters per hour.

In this case, the well may overflow, and if it is combined with the sewer, then the water will begin to flow into the sewer pipes. In this case, of course, she will not be able to rise above the ground level, however, you will not be able to lower anything either, since everything will be in the plumbing. In addition, after lowering the water level, large and small debris will remain inside the system, which can significantly worsen effective work the entire stock system, and it will have to be cleaned regularly, you must admit, is not the most pleasant experience.

The situation is much worse if the discharges go into the drainage well. If, during a prolonged rainstorm, moisture enters the drainage system under high pressure, then as the pipes fill, it simply falls out under the foundation and begins to wash it away. It is not worth talking about the consequences, there are other troubles, which include siltation of the drainage pipeline.

It is impossible to clean such pipes; they must be changed completely.

The conclusion can be made very simple: the storm drain in the house should have its own well, and quite spacious. However, if not far from the site there is an exit to a pond, lake or river, then the arrangement of the well can be neglected.

Design and preparation

When it comes to the drainage system, it is very important to first draw up a drawing, plans and design diagrams, otherwise it will be just "money down the drain." If the system does not work effectively, then you should not even take up its arrangement, and if the stormwater is too powerful, then it will "eat" too much money.

In order to make calculations as accurately as possible and draw up an effective project, the following data are required:

• the average amount of precipitation in a given area (they can be found in SNiP 2.04.03-85);
• frequency of precipitation;
• the size of the snow cover;
• drainage area;
• roof area;
• physical and mechanical parameters of the soil;
• location of underground utilities;
• calculated wastewater volumes.

Q Is the amount of moisture that the system must remove;

q20- the intensity of precipitation (it is different for each area);

F- surface area from which it is planned to remove water;

TO- the correction factor, which depends on the material of the surface of the site, it is:

• for crushed stone - 0.4;
• for concreted areas 0 0.85;
• for asphalt - 0.95;
• for roofs - 1.0.

The resulting value is correlated with SNiPs and the diameter of the pipeline is determined, which is necessary for optimal drainage.

Trays and pipes are dug in at a depth at which they are standardly carried out in each area, their exact value can be found in construction companies or from neighbors who have already equipped a storm drain on their site. Typically in middle lane In Russia, the laying depth is 0.3 meters if the diameter of the pipeline does not exceed 50 cm. Trays and pipes bigger size buried to a depth of 70 cm.

Often, the high cost of excavation leads to the fact that customers are asked not to go deep into the ground - and in general it is quite justified, since there is no point in closing pipes too far. There is no reason to install collectors and inspection tanks below the level of seasonal freezing, as required by the existing GOSTs. They can be placed higher, but pre-insulated insulating material, for example, geotextiles.

Reducing the level of deepening significantly reduces the cost of installation work.

But the requirements governing minimum slope storm drains, should not be neglected. GOST establishes the following standards:

• for pipes with a diameter of 15 cm, the angle of inclination should be 0.008 mm / m;
• for pipes with a cross section of 20 cm - 0.007 mm / m.

The angle of inclination may vary depending on the characteristics of the site. So, at the point where the pipe is connected to the storm water inlet, it is necessary to increase the flow rate of gravity-flowing water, therefore, the maximum allowable angle of 0.02 mm / m should be formed.

But in front of the sand traps, the flow rate should, on the contrary, decrease, otherwise suspended particles will not be able to settle, so the angle of inclination should be minimal.

Construction and installation

The storm drainage system is equipped according to their own technology, its laying is in many ways similar to the principle of carrying out conventional sewer pipelines, however, if there are no drains in the house, then installation should be started from them.

Roofing construction

It is necessary to make special holes in the roof ceilings, which will be used for storm water inlets. After all devices are installed and secured to bituminous mastic, joints and abutments should be treated with a sealant. Next, drain pipes and risers are installed, which are fixed to the facade of a private house with clamps.

If an open system is being built, then trays should be installed, and if the future stormwater is point-like, then branch pipes will need to be laid.

Ground part

In accordance with the outlined plans, which are drawn up taking into account all existing angles of inclination of the terrain and the depth of the canals adopted in each specific region, it is necessary to dig a trench. Let's consider the sequence of actions.

• The bottom of the dug trench must be carefully tamped, all stones that were encountered during excavation should be removed, and the pits formed after them must be covered with soil.
• The bottom of the trench is covered with sand, as a rule, the thickness of the sand cushion is approximately 20 cm.
• A pit is dug to install a collector well. For the collector itself, you can purchase a ready-made plastic container, but you can build it yourself - for this you need to install the formwork and fill it with a concrete solution.
• Into ditches, rammed and reinforced sand pillows, fasten pipes that are connected to each other using fittings.
• It is necessary to include inspection wells in the storm drain branches with a total length of more than 10 meters, and sand traps are mounted at the junction of the receivers and the pipeline. All these devices must be connected in common circuit, and the joints are sealed without fail.
• Before the final backfilling of the trench, it is necessary to test the system for strength; for this, water is poured into the water intake, if the pipes leak, then it is necessary to identify and eliminate the leak.
• If no weak points in the pipeline are found, then it is necessary to thoroughly fill the trench with soil, and equip all gutters and trays with cast iron and plastic gratings.

Mounting open system, in general, does not pose any problems, since the water intake channels can be installed easier and faster. They are sold as independent elements, which are quite simply assembled into a single chain using a thin nylon cord that forms the required drain angle.

Timely arrangement of storm sewers will significantly extend the service life building structures, will exclude the appearance of dirt and slush and will prevent decay of plant roots.

The simplest storm drain can be easily equipped by the owner of the site himself without the use of third-party specialists, but even when contacting professionals, it will not hurt to get acquainted with the features of the sewage system and the specifics of its device, since the owner will periodically have to repair and clean the system as it is used.

For more information on how to install a storm sewer, see the next video.