Once, 20 years ago, we spent a small experiment, asking students from the student of the prom Profdechili with the specialty "Stolar" what Malka is. The correct answer was given less than 10% without 5 minutes of joinery professionals. Meanwhile, the Malka Coromet - is primarily a joiner, although they also enjoy mechanisarines and builders.

Although the plasterers called the low tool, which was a short cutter with a cut, which serves to perform a uniform angle of slopes around windows and doors.

So it is called. But about the instrument, giving the name to this simple template, most of them did not even hear. This one of the people clearly called Malka the status tool. Apparently because it enjoys people quite sophisticated in the profession. Meanwhile, this simple in the technical plan and very simple in the manufacture of the assistant can seriously facilitate the fulfillment of a number of works and in the home workshop, and at the construction site.

Malki construction and appointment

The usual, the simplest little lad consists of two elements:

• pads - a large enough bar with a slot;
• pen - a thin speech, which in the assembled state hides in the slot of the pads.

These elements are connected with a screw pair. Here is a design screw pair Maybe absolutely different, but the fundamental differences are two: the screw can be protruding, and then, most often, instead of the ordinary nut, the lambs are used for the convenience of fixing the mutual position of the pad and the pen, and may be recessed.

The last option is more convenient for the installation of Malki in right placeBut less practical for fixing the given angles and is usually more complex in technical terms.

Sometimes, but rarely, there is still dimension risks on the shoe on the block. But Malka is not measuring tooland marking. Her task: fix the size and transfer to the workpiece, or - the workpiece, when replicating the same products.
Although, the desire of many manufacturers to universal unification, led to the creation of digital small-scale disclosures, equipped with liquid crystal displays. With memory, resetting the result in a given position and other attributes of modern digital tools, but from the low of such devices, except that the overall constructive remained, and it is functionally - it is rather angles.

Digital Malka

What is just not trying to mow in Malka - yes, even though a level bubble, in general, weakly combined with the list of basic works performed using the low.

Mechanical mining improvements are also trying to catch up with digital sophistication, supposedly extending the tool functionality.

In our opinion, from all this abundance technical solutionsMore less useful is a groove device in a transmitter to vary its length, which is in rare cases, but still, it can be useful. And we confirm our own, for many ambiguous, conclusted with examples of work, where the Malka is really indispensable.

How to use a little baby?

If we are talking about the pure transfer of the angle to the workpiece, then there is nothing to describe here: set up a given template or sample, or a drawing (possibly exhaustable) angle, fix the mutual position of the pen and the pads and carry it where necessary. At the same time, we are absolutely indifferent to us, what is the magnitude of this angle in degrees, radians or segments of any magnitude.
But if you need to calculate the conjugation angle of two connected elements, when it is different from the direct, or the pair is the top three, present on some stupid, then without a little, perhaps, and not do. Consider an advertising picture of one of the digital small.

The tool to the tenths showed the angle of the wall of the wall, but even 1/10 did not bring us closer to the practical solution to the task of accurate bumping of the plinth segments in such a strong "incorrect" corner. It is clear that by dividing 135.4 ° to 2, we get an angle value under which the plinth should be stored, but to accurately place them, and then also cut off - the task is not from the lungs. With the help of Malki, these issues are solved easier:

1. Install the Malka in the corner, tightly pressing the block and the pen to both walls, lock the corner turn.
2. Transfer the resulting angle on a sheet of paper, declining it with a pencil or handle.
3. Cut the resulting angle, although you can simply bend the sheet on the applied lines.
4. The resulting segment bends in half from the corner.
5. Plinth is exhibiting, aligning his back from one of the sides, and the end from the top of the corner.
6. Combine cutting tool With the second beam of the corner and make cut. If there are doubts about the vertical of the cut, substitute the block with an exact straight angle and cut along his rib.

The video shows a slightly more complex way of transferring an angle taken from the drawing on the scale.

But its relative complexity is to comply with the maximum accuracy, because even minor deviations on the total length of the design may increase in decent linear dimensions. What can we talk about such metal plastic windowssystems that are shown in the photo. If memory does not change, their dimensions are: 5000 x 4000 x 3500 or so it.

Consider the consequences of the error angles of angles of welding of the upper structure. But everything was marked with the help of a little accurately for sure. On the smooth floor in the workshop, a rectangle 5000 was drawn? 3500 with test diagonals, then one of the sides is elongated to 4 meters and this point is connected to the second upper angle. Next - everything as described in the example with a plinth, only to nominal sizes Added necessary values \u200b\u200bfor welding.
For some types of work, special mines are created - double. They serve to transfer the corners of the reversal of Erker and similar to this task.

There is confidence that after the described above, explain in detail how such a tool works, there is no particular need. It is only necessary to emphasize that the grooves in the node replacing the block overall for both feathers, allow you to push the little on the width, increasing its functionality.
It is also obvious that this is a homemade little girl, and its design is significantly simplified, even in comparison with the simplest produced industrially. But she does his job no worse than factory, just not so much durable structures Necessary needs. But make even more complex constructively Malka for a person who knows how to use a simple carpentry tool is not a problem.

Make a little with your own hands

And here, first of all, you should seriously approach the selection of wood. It should be dry and devoid of bitch, regardless of the breed. And the breed is better to take a hard enough: oak, ash, T.P. Such a tool will last much longer, and the markup produced with its help is more accurate.

Independent manufacture Malki

We deliberately taken a video with an example of making a little bit from the simplest, practically ottask materials and remedies so that you see how uncomplicated this process. But what additional functions Of the viscosity of the video, and the industrialized copies of the specimens, give your little money - decide, our opinion you know.

Dear readers, if you have any questions, ask them using the form below. We will be happy to communicate with you;)

Need to measure the angle when conducting repair work It occurs almost constantly. For these purposes there is a very convenient measuring device "Malka, it is about him that we want to tell you today."

Malka - a tentor that is capable of much

Let's immediately consider the tasks for which this measuring device is intended. As a rule, the main purpose of such a device is to measure the degrees of an existing angle and transfer it to further on the workpiece or accurate measuring device. Especially convenient and useful when installing windowsill: measuring the exact slope angle, you can easily transfer the markup to the workpiece and quite accurately cut the angles, and to carry out a further installation.

Also used to calculate the "Angle of Dawn" when device window slopes. Initially, the device was used to work with a tree, but in the future twisted in other areas construction work. Visually, this tool is very similar to the usual plumbing kit with a straight angle. But in its specificity, Malka is a tilter, and in order to have the ability to measure the angles, the tool has a movable part, which determines the directly specified angle, both sharp and deployed.

• The block is the basis of the entire instrument. On the usual square, this is its lower part, on both tools, the block performs the same role. Only here the block has a slot in Malka, in which another part of the tool is hiding.
• The pen is the moving part of the tool. The groove in the block allows you to fold the tool, so it takes very little space and is convenient to use for the wizard.
• The fastener is usually made in the form of nuts "lamb." Allows you to fix the movable part and make accurate dimensions.

It is worth noting that this measuring instrument can be made as in wooden versionand in metallic. Wooden Malka is usually used where there is a fear of damaging the surface, the tree does not leave scratches when measurements.

Malka - a tool that will help measure the desired angle

If you first encountered a new device, not avoiding the question: what is it and how to use it? As already mentioned, this device It helps to measure the angles, and let's notice an angle of forty-five degrees. We take such numbers just like that, but we mean cutting the tree at the most popular angle. You can also choose any other value that interest you. Technically malka is the tool that is able to measure the angle of zero to one hundred eighty degrees. So, proceed to measurements.

1. To begin with, you can find the angle you need already in the finished execution and measure. You can also put an angle under the degree you need.
2. Further, the resulting result is fixed by the fastening bolt, it is desirable, as hard as possible.
3. After the resulting angle, we apply to the part and carry a pencil line.
4. Cut off with a tree with a tree or electric pubsomy Angle of markings.

In this example, the markup is assumed wooden board or markup door pen. This method will be much faster than the marking of the usual coal.

How to make a little at home?

Of course, today the whole required toolIn our case, Malka, you can buy in a construction store. But sometimes there are situations when the device is needed now, and there is no time for this, or on sale is simply not available required tool. Let's try to figure out how to make a little with your own hands from the priest. And that's what we need from materials for these purposes:

• Wooden ram with a size of 20 by 30 mm. From it we produce a block.
• Plywood thick from 3 to 5 mm, it will be a movable part of the tool, pen.
• Fastening element in the form of nut and bolt.
• and drill corresponding to the diameter of the fastener.

Prepare all the components of the future tool, you can start its assembly. First of all, I will begin making the pad. Measure out wooden bar 10 centimeters, it is possible and more, but exceed the length of 15 centimeters is not worth it. Cut with knife right size future pad. The next step in the manufacture of the tool will be a slot device for the pen. To do this, on the one side of the end base of the block, we make an incision, and while I will postpone the block to the side.

We now turn to the manufacture of a pen, which can be cut from plywood or other suitable material. We note the future size of the element, the width of the pen 20-30 mm, the length can reach 300-400 mm. Tip! All sizes given in this example can be changed at its own discretion.. In the process of making a little girl, you can increase the length of the pad and the pen, the main thing is that you can work conveniently work tool. Feather is ready, and now it can be easily adjusted in the block.

Check out the incision in the end of the bar, the pen must when trying to fold the tool to form sharp cornerAlthough, of course, not in all cases it happens. When everything is ready, you need to install fasteners in place, for this, compare the parts at an angle of 90 degrees and drill the drill hole through. After insert the bolt and clamp the parts with the nut. Theoretically, our tool is ready, it remains a little to modify the feather. Move it in the block, and protruding corners additionally process. Excessive to remove and cut off the cut emery paper.

How to use a little maid on the example of the device of slopes

Let's now make a little you experience in working conditions, and the test it will pass on the window slopes. Our tool will help to conduct proper shockting on the basis of existing standards. As you know, the window slings have a certain angle, the builders call it the "angle of dawn". But according to the rules, all the angles should be the same and symmetrical, if you do not comply with these rules, then different slopes It will be visible to the naked eye. Here is the instruction, how to use a little baby to obtain uniform angles.

How to use Malka - Step-by-step scheme

Step 1: Preparation of walls and window opening

All walls of the room in which you plan to make slopes should be completely plastered. As a rule, on window Operm Stucco ends. The slopes must be prepared, cleaned of dust and treated with soil. Also, if the window was installed using mounting foamThe protruding surplus must be previously removed with a knife.

Step 2: Select the "Corner of Dawn"

Now we need, first of all, decide on the angle under which will be conducted. To do this, block the little blocks in the edge of the window frame and the movement of the pen is determined by the angle along the edge of the window opening from the wall side. Fix the resulting result in the Malka and check the correspondence around the perimeter of the window opening. If when checking the selected angle does not coincide with the selected value, it is necessary to pick up the plaster from the wall of the wall or change the angle on the low.

Step 3: Align the slope angle

Usually, on the window opening, the plaster ends in chaotic order, even angles are removed while working with slopes. In order to make the ideal angles of slopes, you just need to install a ray on the wall along the edge of the slopes around the window perimeter. For this, the lowest is determined where the edge of the rail will be, and fastened it with self-draws or ordinary nails to the wall. Do not forget the building level to check the rail of vertical, it should stand strictly by level.

Step 4: Apply the solution, set the angle

When the rails are installed on the angles of slopes, proceed to apply plaster mix. For this, the craftsman at an angle apply the solution to the slope, preferably with a small breath. After the low, it is necessary to remove the surplus of the plastering mixture and to offer the direction of the angle. In this case, install the block on the window frame, in the same way as we did during measurements, and swipe on the frame from the bottom up. In this case, the pen will remove the surplus and lines the working surface. If after the work done on the slope remains, add the solution and repel the breath of the Malka again.

I often have to do different assembly workwhere such a tool is required as a level or a gentleer. Therefore, I decided to make a homemade taker. As it turned out, it is not so difficult to make it, as it seemed at the beginning. In the photo, I measure the angle of inclination rafters in the attic.

The main component of the negotiation is the usual school transport. Under the base of the tall, I used a pine plank with the aspect ratio of 1x4. From the sides and angles of this plate, the correctness of the test readings will depend on, so it must be made with maximum accuracy. Check the angles and diagonal.

Put a plate on a flat surface and press it with transportation, then you need to fix the vehicle with clamps. Watch that the transportation does not move when you tighten the clamps. From this will depend on the accuracy of the homemade sensor.

Drills the holes for the self-tapping screw and we pass the cenchus so that the hats of the screws did not protrude and the corrector's pointer did not cling to them.

The sensor pointer can be made from nail or thick wire. I have welding, so I just welded a nail to the nut and processed irregularities on the shred. If there is no welding, then you can make a pointer from the wire by reducing one end with the circular rolls.

In the center of the transport circle, a thin drill drill a hole for a self-tapping screw and screw the corrector pointer.

It remains only to calibrate the tilter. To do this, it is necessary to strictly horizontally set the level and put a tilter on it. If the pointer shows not 90 degrees, we achieve accuracy just gently bending the nail into needide. That's all - the homemade gentleer is ready. See here more interesting.

To give the evenness and the right angle of disclosure of the discharge, a small one is used for slopes, which performs a significant role in its formation. This is relevant with the next repairs providing for the replacement of windows and doors or when repairing in a new building.

Malka - This device allows you to determine and fix angle with the transfer of it to the desired workpiece. It is convenient to work with it when installing the windowsill, device of door or window slopes, when performing other construction, sanitary and other works.

Malka can be metallic and wooden. It consists of two elements:

• The shoe is a wider part with a slot inside, where "hiding" the second element is a pen.
• The pen (ruler) is attached to the screw with a screw, it is movably and designed to mark the markup and fold in the groove.

Almost everything happens according to the scheme - measurement of the angle - fixation by its clamping bolt - transfer of size to the workpiece. Today the market offers a stunning choice of tools and all sorts of devices. And Malka is no exception - it may be to buy on his taste and wallet.

But it is quite realistic to make the simplest wooden mace for slopes themselves.

Mastery Malka Alone

From the board, cut out the workpiece in width to 20 cm, and the length is calculated - the value of the depth of the slope plus to 15 cm so that it is convenient to keep it.

For free sliding tool on a box of the window or door, we make a cutout in the blank equal to the width of the corresponding size of the door box or window frame.

To make a little easily moved along this guide, you need another hole through which the loops will "pass". It is made round in the corner of the cut-out in the blackboard or plywood. The diameter should be slightly larger than the loops so that the little ones do not hurt the hinges when moving.

Many simplify the manufacture - instead of all cuts, they are driven into the proton part of the nail (then the workpiece should be slightly thicker). So that it does not scratch the surface on which it will move, bite off the hat and overtake the tape.

In both embodies, one end of the low-length low-length moves window frame, and the opposite side - in advance nitty rails, as on the guides.

Application Malki during plaster

Made you easily and qualitatively perform not only plaster, but also putty.

First of all, you need to form the same "angle of dawn" for all slopes. We establish a block on the edge of the window frame, for example, and the pen determine the angle along the edge of the slope adjacent to the wall. Fix the screw result.

Now it is necessary to check the entire slope around the perimeter of the Malka. The result should be the same everywhere. If somewhere there are deviations, we remove too much and check again. Perhaps you have to change the angle in the small a little if there are big errors. By analogy, we have done on the simplified Malka scheme.

The next stage is preparatory work and plaster, spacure of slopes. In detail, the entire sequence is described in the Otsea Stucco Article. Here is a fixture - like a completely simple tool, but when it is used, the slopes are drawn up quickly and efficiently with a given disclosure angle, symmetrical and even.

I suggest a short video where the little girl performs a completely simple pattern made by their own hands.

Already in the first stages of the construction of the vessel model, the novice modelist will face a number of terms and concepts, the values \u200b\u200bof which are not obvious and require clarification.

One of the operations that must be performed when installing the sparkmosts on a kille frame - the removal of the low, i.e. Removing the bevels on the ribs of the splits. It can also be called a male, melting, etc.

Maritime dictionary explains the concept: in shipbuilding practice, the Malka is called the angle between the shelves of the spangling square, when it is greater or less direct.

In particular, when building small boats and yachts, the mines necessary for removal are determined by applying flexible wooden rail and choosing speakers under the control rail. After all the measurements, the plane of the slant part of the splits is processed by the plane on these "beacons", which is well described at S. Dreams in the "Pioneer shipyard".

In shipment, the meaning of this operation is that, both before installing the splits on glue, and already after gluing, it is necessary to process thus outer surface The future frame of the hull is the end parts of the spangouts so that the processed bar with the next draft and finishing the vessel, the processed slats lay tightly adjacent to the frame, with the desired bend, without breaks and failures.

Manufacturers of sets for assembly can engrave on the details of the contours for removing the bevels (small) (in particular russian manufacturer wooden sets Kits "Master Ship" on the "Phoenix" model). The main removal of the little mines are produced, in this case, before installing the splits on the lines laser engravingmade by the manufacturer, and final processing - already after landing on glue.

In general, in order to correctly and qualitatively remove the Malk, providing in the future symmetry and the correct smooth buildings of the body, the novice modelist will face the need to somehow consolidate on working surface kille frame. This is important for leveling the strict perpendicularity of the ligament of the spline - keel, and as a result, obtaining as a result of processing the correct smooth body circuit. In this case, stapel is not a whim, but an urgent need. Each spline may have to be removed and set several times by checking the rail or thin wooden line, gradually processing and configuring its edge and it is important not to lose the time at each installation on its alignment. A starting panel installed in the required place of the frame, under the desired angle to a reliably fixed quille of the future model of the model, will greatly facilitate the task.

The stapel will also be useful if the model is decided to shoot lowers from the already glued frame of the case, which in some cases it makes sense.

Black surface treatment, low-length removal Each modelman performs a convenient way for it: with a model knife, a downtile or a file, a skirt attached to the sandpaper, etc. Or in its mechanizing a thin process.

Before final finishing, the splintings are once again checked for perpendicularity and are installed on glue. After drying, it is recommended to establish a temporary strut between the splints in the sandpaper, bars from a suitable non-solid material - balm or similar wood, even dense foam is suitable. The frame-fired in this way is finally processed by a thin skin, fixed on a sufficiently long sandpaper. All these actions allow you to continue to be comfortable for the trim and does not need an additional processing frame of the case of the model with a weathered geometry.