The desire to make furniture with your own hands is welcome. After all, any thing, worked independently, acquires personality traits. Pick up a tool and create a masterpiece with your own hands. Let's start with the simplest one - making cabinet doors.

A simple solution available to everyone

To get the job done quickly, we choose one of the least time-consuming options for making cabinet swing doors:

• from the panel;
• from ½ "finishing plywood;
• for professionals;
• hanging sashes purchased in the store.

Homemade paneled doors are hung on semi-hidden overhead hinges. It is not required to cut the grooves with a mill, the sashes can be made of the required size, at the end of the work the product is covered with furniture varnish.

Rice. 1. Plywood doors with a half-hidden hinge

Homemade hinged plywood doors are finished around the edges. Each sash should protrude from the front frame by approximately one centimeter. Cutting grooves is not required, fastening to the rear side of the door and to the end of the front frame is not difficult.

Hanging the ready-made doors selected in the store on semi-hidden hinges or making doors in production according to the drawings makes it possible to do the job without turning the apartment into a carpentry shop.

Rice. 2. Samples of door fittings

From fittings, if there are no self-closing hinges, you can use: A - universal constipation; B - roller; C - a lock locked with a key; D - door brass bolt; E - magnetic latch. The last element is most often used on glass doors.

Finishing plywood doors

Work should begin by taking the dimensions of the doorway and choosing the number of doors to be installed. With a width of more than 60 cm, one sash is not enough. If the decision is made to install one panel, the height and width remain unchanged. When double-leaf doors are made, the width of the opening is halved and about 1.3 cm is subtracted from it on each side.

Rice. 3. We make a cabinet: taking measurements

To frame the sashes, 45 ° bevel profiles are measured and cut. These elements are attached to the panel with 1 1/2 ”finishing nails. Coating is made with varnish.

On the back side of the doors, 2 semi-hidden overhead hinges are installed. We recommend fixing them at a distance of 5 cm from the edge of the panel (top and bottom). If the door height is more than 75 cm, use 1 more hinge in the center. To check the correctness taken dimensions it will be convenient for the front frame, above 1.3 cm from the doorway, temporarily stick adhesive marking tape.

The door is overlaid on the opening, the top edge is aligned with the marking tape. The location of the hinges should be marked on the front frame with pieces of the same tape.

Base holes are drilled into which the door is attached to the screws. The hinges should be in the marked place. The marking tape is removed after the door is installed. Attached last doorknobs and other elements of door fittings.

Rice. 4. We make a wardrobe: overlaying the sash on the opening and installing it

If a hinged door is made, then semi-hidden hinges are attached to the front frame at the bottom, and holders and latches are installed on the sides to prevent spontaneous swinging of the sash.

Rice. 5. We make a wardrobe: attaching door fittings

Assembly of sliding doors

You can install with your own hands not only swing, but also sliding door leaves. They allow you to save space, give furniture a more stylish, modern look. Sliding doors are an integral structural element of both built-in and cabinet-type wardrobes. By constructive decision allocate:

• suspended;
• rail.

In the first case, the upper rail withstands the main load, in the second, the lower one. A home craftsman can, with proper dexterity and skills, install any doors in the closet with his own hands. However, if you want to make a suspended structure, you will need:

• physical assistance in the installation of doors;
• applying efforts to move the flaps;
• complex system adjustment.

Over time, under heavy weight, the top of the front frame will begin to sag. There are more reliable suspension systems in which a smooth ride is realized. We are talking about structures with a distributed load on 8 wheels (and not 2, as usual) and installation of bearings in the rollers. But such a system:

• takes an additional 150 mm of cabinet space;
• does not look aesthetically pleasing;
• costs more.

The advantage of the suspension system is its low requirements for the door leaf. A door knocked together from any rough material, screwed on with larger self-tapping screws, will roll properly.

Choosing a rail structure

It is easier to assemble a rail system with your own hands, although it is more capricious in operation. When deciding on a design, pay attention to its quality. It is impossible to fix, to do something worthwhile, if, having decided to save money, you acquire dubious details.

Door systems of the "Commander" type have proven themselves well in operation. However, do not rely only on the model name: some would-be manufacturers manage to replace aluminum guides with tin ones or in some other way spoil a good idea.

The main advantages of using a high-quality rail system:

• Low weight of the shutters, even mirrored glass.
• Simplicity of design and adjustment.
• Variety of facades (laminated chipboard 8 mm, mirrors with a sandblast pattern, etc.);
• Silence, ease of fixation in extreme positions.

Rice. 6. Possible do-it-yourself options for the facades of the sliding wardrobe with rail doors

When installing this system, screw connections are not used, the door frames are fastened with latches. For DIY assembly, this is the most acceptable option.

An example of calculating the overall dimensions of sliding doors

Let's calculate the size of sliding doors:

• door width;
• canvas height;
• number of materials.

Rice. 7. Scheme of a wardrobe

Calculating the width of the doors will give a size of 1556 mm: the thickness of the right wall (16 mm) must be subtracted from the total span of the opening (1572 mm) covered by the doors. Any sliding structures overlap each other, so we add 50 mm to the calculated figure (for each panel 25 mm), we get 1606 mm. An extra 50 mm is guaranteed to ensure that there are no gaps when opening, but you can make a tolerance of 25 mm, at a minimum. We divide the resulting width (1606 mm) by the number of planes (2) and display the width of one sash - 803 mm.

Rice. 8. Sliding wardrobe: the location of the doors, top view

We will start determining the length of the canvas by fixing the total overall height from floor to ceiling. In this case, it is 2481 mm. It is necessary to subtract 16 mm from it on the pads for the guides from above and below and on the gaps between the guide and the door of 15 mm. We get a canvas with a height of 2419 mm, therefore, for a wardrobe, it is necessary to make 2 sliding doors with dimensions of 2419x803 mm.

Rice. 9. Door profile of built-in or cabinet-type wardrobe

When calculating the amount of materials required for making sliding cabinet doors with your own hands, it should be borne in mind that the profile is realized in segments of 2700 mm. For 2 doors, you need 4 whips (left and right ends of both doors).

Rice. 10. Sliding wardrobe: upper (1) and lower (2) horizontal door profiles

The framing profile for the top and bottom of the sashes is realized in sections with a step length of 1 meter. Therefore, you will need to purchase 2 meters of the upper profile and 2 of the lower one.

Manufacturing of door frames

We start assembling the frame, the kit for 1 sash includes:

• 2 support rollers for the lower guide profile;
• 2 bolts for attaching support wheels;
• 4 self-tapping screws for connecting horizontal and vertical profiles;
• 2 support for securing the sash in the upper guide profile.

Rice. 11. Cutting the vertical profile to the required length

1. Having made the markings, we cut off 4 segments of the vertical profile of the required length. In the example above, it equals 2419 mm. Remember that the whips are covered with plastic wrap to protect them from damage during transportation. It is not required to remove it before cutting, it will protect against accidental scratches.

1. The length of the upper and lower profiles is calculated as follows: from the 803 mm sash width obtained in the example above, subtract 25 mm to the right and left verticals, and then add 1 mm each to fit the elements into the grooves. The resulting length of the horizontal profile is 755 mm.

Rice. 12. Scheme of entry of the horizontal profile into the groove of the vertical

1. We determine the place of drilling in the vertical profile for the self-tapping screw, which will fasten it to the lower horizontal one. To do this, using a vernier caliper, we measure the distance from the end of the profile to the middle of the hole for the self-tapping screw (7.5 mm) and transfer it to a vertical whip. We repeat this procedure with the upper horizontal profile. Do the same with the second vertical whip.
2. On the vertical profile from the bottom side, we mark the holes for the installation of the support wheels. To do this, it is necessary to measure the gap between the end face and the middle of the mounting hole of the block with the support wheel and transfer the resulting size to the vertical whip.

Rice. 13. Drilling a vertical profile

1. Wherever the markings are made, we drill through (through the outer and inner strips) 5 mm mounting holes for self-tapping screws. In total, there should be 3 holes in each vertical whip, the first is for securing the upper profile, the second is for fixing the lower one, the third at the very bottom is for installing the support rollers.

1. We increase the diameter of the hole in the outer strip to 8 mm, this will allow us to hide the self-tapping head in it, and the lower strip will be pressed against it.

Installation of door frames and calculation of the filling

After alignment drilled holes a self-tapping screw is inserted, and the structural elements are pulled together. Before finally tightening the upper guide rail, insert the positioning support.

It is not necessary to screw in the bolt deeper, let it come out of the profile by 1-2 mm. In the future, with its help, it will be possible to adjust the position of the sash on the lower support.

You can make filling for do-it-yourself doors, like the cabinet itself, from a variety of materials. But before selecting them, let's remove the dimensions between the upper and lower horizontal strips (in our example, it will turn out to be 2360 mm), and between the left and right vertical strips (767 mm).

On each side, it is necessary to make a gap of 1 mm, this will allow the frame to be assembled without difficulty. The filling size will decrease to 2358 and 765 mm, respectively. If you want to make a cabinet with mirrored or glass doors with your own hands, then you should remove another 1 mm from each side. This is explained by a rubber gasket sealing tape, therefore, the size of the filler will be reduced to 2356x763 mm.

Despite the fact that today doors are made from a variety of modern materials, wood products are still the most in demand. Wooden doors are installed between rooms, at the entrance to a house or outbuildings, and they are also mounted on all functional rooms of the bath. The popularity of wooden doors remains unchanged due to the warmth of the material and its environmental friendliness, as well as the amazing natural beauty of textured patterns.

To figure out how to make a door from boards with your own hands, you need to decide where it will be installed. The fact is that all wooden doors, from the simplest to the elite ones, are made of boards, but the material can be of different quality and processing. There are also significant differences in wood species.

In addition, door leaves are divided into types according to their design, and in order to determine which one is more suitable for a particular case, you need to find out what they are.

Door types by design

Wooden doors can have several types of structures - paneled and massive, panel (hollow and solid) and frame.

Massive doors

Massive doors are made from thick grooved or planed boards, connected to each other in one plane and thus forming a flat surface. The resulting shield should have horizontal or inclined bridges, which will make the structure more rigid.

For massive doors, wood of different species and qualities is used, depending on where they will be installed. For example, if a massive entrance door is made, then for it you need to choose moderately dried, dense, high quality wood of expensive species, such as oak, cedar, larch and others. They have a beautiful noble textured pattern and dense structure. With appropriate processing, such a door will serve for a long time without deformation and damage by insects dangerous to wood.

A massive door can have a different design - both uncomplicated, which is suitable for installation, say, in the steam room of a bath, or complex, with a relief design, suitable for entering a house or apartment.

For sauna doors, less expensive wood can be used, such as pine, spruce, linden and others. The only thing to consider when making door structure for damp rooms - it is thorough processing and water-repellent agents.

Massive doors can have their own design features, but one thing remains unchanged - this is the canvas, which should always be made of natural wood.

Paneled door

Paneled wooden doors are also made of boards or timber, but its glued version is more often used, which is made from individual wooden parts - lamellas. They are glued together, creating thick boards or beams.

Glued laminated timber serves as a rigid frame for the canvas - vertical and transverse elements, as well as midships, are made of it. Individual elements were previously fastened with the help of thorns, today pins are more often used for this. When making a door, you need to take into account the fact that the more crossbars are provided in the canvas, the stronger it will be. A kind of frame is formed from the timber, into which panels-panels are installed, made of thinner boards, MDF, covered with natural veneer, or plastic imitating the textured pattern of wood. The panel is usually ⅓ of the thickness of the laminated veneer lumber. The panels are fixed in the frames using veneer or natural glazing beads, which give the paneled door aesthetic appearance by smoothing out the sharp edges of the frame.

Paneled doors can have a very diverse design and will decorate any apartment. As can be seen from the design diagram, the main part of the door leaf is of small thickness, therefore they are most often installed in the openings between rooms.

The paneled structure is made of durable materials that are not inferior in their durability to solid wood. Sometimes this type of door has an even higher cost than an array of doors. Pricing is based on what kind of wood the boards and beams are made from and what veneer the paneled door material is covered with.

It should be noted that canvases are often paneled and completely made of natural wood, only made according to a similar constructive scheme.

Panel doors

Panel doors can be called a budget option, since their price is much lower than the two types mentioned above. They are made from a cheaper material - this is low quality wood and fiberboard, faced with veneer or laminate. Qualitatively made panel structures have a completely aesthetic appearance, and if their surface is still lined with natural veneer, then sometimes they are very similar to massive doors.

Panel doors are solid, hollow and shallow. They differ in that in some inner space completely filled with unedged timber, fastened together, the latter consist only of strapping and exterior cladding and still others are partially filled.

A typical hollow panel door consists of two transverse - upper and lower, as well as side beams, which are sheathed with fiberboard, clapboard or other materials. Sometimes horizontal and vertical cross members are installed inside the structure, as they give the structure additional rigidity. Such a door can already be called a frame door.

Small-hollow door leaf structures have different filling of the internal space, and a variety of materials can be used for filling - it can be plywood, MDF boards, cardboard, shavings or polystyrene.

Solid panel doors are those whose filling is a kind of shield made of not edged or edged timber tightly fastened together.

Schemes of panel structures of different occupancy are presented in the figures:

Panel door schemes - 1

BUT- solid construction;

B- shallow-hollow filling;

Panel door schemes - 2

IN- filling voids with veneer;

G and D- shallow-hollow filling with pieces of plywood or MDF;

Panel door schemes - 3

E- filling with shavings;

F–Filling with paper or cardboard honeycombs;

Z- a panel partially filled with solid bars with a designated place for glass or plywood sheets.

Panel door schemes - 4

AND- filling part of the web with veneer;

TO and L- filling with plywood or wood-fiber elements;

M- filling with paper or cardboard honeycombs.

Panel door frame is veneered various materials on both sides - plastic (laminate, melamine), fibreboard, plywood or veneer.

When facing boards with high-quality plywood with a beautiful textured pattern, they can be additionally decorated with profiled linings.

• To obtain a high-quality panel door, the structure is clad with plywood made of linden or alder, which is mounted in one or two layers, each of which is 2 ÷ 3 mm. The material, made of alder and linden, does not deform, which creates a reliable basis for

Fixed on top of the glued layer finishing plywood from valuable breeds wood. The grain direction of the decorative plywood layer should be perpendicular to the material of the glued one.

Often on the glued layer, instead of plywood, natural veneer from expensive wood species is fixed. Its layers, and there can be 3 or 5 of them, are also laid perpendicular to each other.

• Sometimes a solid board made of glued timber is immediately formed with a veneer, it is applied in 5 ÷ 10 layers to create a general facing words of 2 ÷ 4 mm.

The end sides of the shield must be neat and solid, therefore, if the door is made without a frame, then even, well-processed bars are used for them, which in color and texture will correspond to the finish of the other planes.

The end bars are fastened to the shield with pins and glue.

This type of door, depending on the finish, may be a bathroom or utility rooms, as well as quality. However, it should be noted that panel doors have absolutely no protection, therefore they are not suitable for the role of entrance doors. Most often, they are used for this only as a temporary option.

Now that the designs of all types of doors are known, you can decide which one is suitable for a particular case, and then proceed to the preparatory work and manufacturing.

Tools for making doors

In order to make any model of a wooden door, you will definitely need high-quality tools and a stable large workbench table, on which all the elements will be assembled into a single canvas.

From the tools you need to prepare:

• Manual router - this device will help to make the door leaf smooth, cut out any holes and grooves, equalize the right angles of the structure, process the glazing bead and much more. If the goal is to make a door that looks professional, then this tool is indispensable.

• A plane for leveling the end sides of the door.
• Clamps for tightening the glued fabric.
• Hacksaw.
• Bow and hand saw.
• Chisels of different sizes.
• Rubber and regular hammer.
• Building level.
• Ruler, tape measure, folding rule and pencil.
• Sandpaper and sander.
• Screwdriver.

Necessary materials

For the manufacture of doors you will need the following materials:

• Wood - its grade, quantity and dimensions are selected for each door separately. The choice of this material will be discussed below.
• Joiner's glue.
• Self-tapping screws of different lengths.

In addition, for each type of door, it will be necessary to prepare specific materials that will be mentioned in the sections on the manufacture of certain door leaves.

Lumber selection

It is imperative to know how to choose the right blanks for the canvas, otherwise the finished door may deform, and it will no longer be possible to fix this defect.

The main criteria for choosing wood are as follows:

• The type of wood is chosen according to the desire and financial capabilities.
• For doors, the so-called commercial wood is purchased, since it has a small number of knots, and if they are, then they are small in size and light in color.
• In order for the wood to "behave" well during processing and the period of operation of the doors, when purchasing the material, it must have a residual moisture content of 12 ÷ 15%. It is recommended to choose material dried in a special drying chamber. The wood treated in this way does not deform or dry out, since the chamber creates an optimal temperature effect on its fibers.
• When buying boards, they must be checked for evenness. To do this, they should be laid on a flat surface and try to connect to each other using “groove-thorn” locks. The boards should not be bent or driven.
• The thickness of the boards for the door can be 25 ÷ 50 mm, depending on where it will be installed - at the entrance or between rooms.
• Before starting work, it is recommended to walk on all surfaces of the boards with a sander with fine-grained sandpaper. If this device is not there, then you can make a sanding device yourself from an ordinary wooden block, attaching sandpaper to it.

Making a massive door

What kind of door model is solid board neither was chosen, the basis for it will be a board shield, which must be correctly assembled. Otherwise, the wood can "lead", and such a structure will be impossible to exploit.

A door from a solid board is made for installation between rooms or for installation at the entrance to an apartment, house and outbuildings. Naturally, the appearance of the product will differ in different situations.

• For a bath, the simplest design is usually used, in which a shield, assembled from boards, is fastened with transverse and diagonal elements.

In this drawing you can see different variants fastenings-strapping:

General view of the door;

I - a door with a Z-shaped strapping;

II - X-shaped strapping;

III - double Z-shaped strapping;

IV - double X-shaped strapping;

V - triple strapping.

For the entrance to the house or for installation in living quarters, the doors should have a more aesthetic appearance. Therefore, the assembled shield is processed in a special way to achieve its perfect evenness and smoothness. Further, the marking of the selected relief pattern is applied to the canvas, and then a relief is cut out along it with the help of a router.

Illustration
	For the manufacture of the shield, grooved boards are taken that have a "thorn-groove" fastening, or not grooved. The thickness of the boards should be at least 25 mm, but if a door is made to enter an apartment or house, then a board is taken even with a thickness of 40 ÷ 60 mm. Doors for outbuildings or saunas are most often made of non-grooved boards using one of the straps shown above. For doors installed in residential premises, a grooved high-quality thick board is taken.
	Further, the prepared boards are marked and sawn into the required segments.
	The next step from the board is going to the shield. In this case, you need to lay them in such a way that the pattern of the annual rings is directed in one direction. If grooved boards are taken for manufacturing, then the spike is carefully cut from the extreme element of the shield, and the end is carefully processed. When assembling the panel, the grooved boards are assembled using both the tongue-and-groove joint and wood glue. Non-grooved - just stick together.
	Work should be carried out on a large work table - a workbench, where it is possible to place the door leaf completely and lay it perfectly evenly.
	The assembled and glued sheet shield is pressed in several places with clamps and left to dry.
	The finished, dried shield is processed with a milling cutter to a perfectly smooth state. At the same time, the joints between the boards become almost invisible.
	It should be noted that, if necessary, a massive door is assembled from two or even three layers of boards, each of which is glued perpendicular to the previous one, and the entire resulting structure is clamped into clamps. The result is a rather heavy, powerful shield with a thickness suitable for installation at the entrance to a house or apartment. Especially often, a door is made in this way, on which some kind of relief pattern will later be milled or carved.
	Next, you need to fasten the shield with one of the types of strapping. The simplest of them are two or three crossbars installed in the upper, middle and lower parts of the canvas. In this case, parts are prepared, the length of which will be equal to the width of the manufactured shield. Their possible shapes and sizes are shown in the figure on the left. This configuration must be observed for easy entry of the cross member into the groove that will be cut for it in the door leaf.
	Then, on the door leaf, a marking is made of the places where the grooves for the crossbars will be cut. Ready-made transverse elements are applied to them and outlined with a simple pencil. In addition, it is immediately necessary to determine and mark the depth to which the groove will be selected in the boards of the shield. The indentation can be ⅓ or ½ of the board thickness.
	According to the marks made on the shield, the milling cutter cut out transverse grooves of the desired shape and size. The cutter is able to make their surfaces perfectly smooth, so the crossbars will fit into their "nests" quite easily, but very tightly. Additionally, the groove is coated with wood glue. You can also cut a groove manually - first, cuts are made at the desired angle, and then the wood is selected with a chisel.
	When the grooves are prepared, the crossbars are inserted into them from one side, and then gradually pushed inward using a rubber mallet or mallet.
	When assembled, the canvas, reinforced with crossbars, will look something like this.
	If you plan to decorate the finished shield with any embossed pattern, then its contour should first be applied to the surface with a pencil using a template. After that, cutters of the desired configuration are alternately installed on the hand router, and the selected pattern is cut out without haste.
	The finished canvas should be processed antiseptic agents. If the door is planned to be installed at the entrance of the house and, therefore, will be influenced by external factors, then in addition to the antiseptic, water-repellent compounds should also be used. When making a door to enter an apartment, it is recommended to cover the wood with fire retardants.
	If there is a desire to change the color of the canvas, to make the door more "noble" or artificially "age" it, then the staining technology can be used for this. Wood stain is covered in one or several layers, achieving the desired darkening of the texture. After the composition has dried, the doors can be covered in several layers with varnish.
	On the finished door leaf and door frame, markings are made for installing the selected model of hinged hinges. Then the hinges are mounted in the marked places.
	The next step is to mark the location of the lock on the canvas and on the door frame, after which it is cut into the structure and the handle is installed. In the last step, the door is hung in the doorway and an exact finishing fit is carried out, if required.

Panel door manufacturing

It is not difficult to make a panel door yourself. The main thing is to have at hand all the materials, a solid tool, withstand all dimensions, keep the edges even and straightness of the corners. The amount of work will depend on the design of the selected door option. For example, for a solid panel door, as well as for one made of a solid board, it is necessary to make a panel, only it can consist of low quality wood and processing. If it is planned to make a finely filled canvas, then the same bars are used, but they are fastened not into a solid surface, but with gaps.

Based on the description of the structure, it can be made in three ways:

• The first is that first a frame frame (strapping) of the required size is assembled, and then its internal space is filled in whole or in part, that is, a solid or small-filled shield is created inside the frame.
• The shield can be made separately, and then it must be fixed in the frame, and then sheathed with finishing material.
• The third option is performed in the reverse order, that is, the shield is first made, and then it is sheathed with a frame and cladding.

Each of the methods has its pros and cons, and the master chooses which one to choose on his own. Below, for example, will be considered the first option for manufacturing a door.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	So, first, the frame (strapping) of the structure is made, which will determine the size of the canvas. For it, it is necessary to prepare a bar with a section of approximately 30 × 120 mm, which is cut to the size of the future canvas (length and width).
	Having prepared the timber, it is necessary to select the connection that will be used at the corners. There are several types of connections, but the simplest one can be called the one that is called "half-tree". The grooves are first marked on the edges of the prepared timber, which must be done very precisely, and then they are easily selected using the usual hand saw and chisels. The depth of the groove should be equal to half the thickness of the timber. The grooves are coated with glue and connected at the corners, and they must be checked with a building angle, since the bars must be perfectly perpendicular. When joining the timber, the frame must lie on a hard, flat surface, and after joining the corners, it is left to dry on the same table without moving.
	After the glue on the joints dries, they must be fastened with pins, for which they are drilled through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm. Then glue-treated pins are carefully driven into them.
	One side of the frame must be veneered with one of the selected materials immediately after fastening and drying the frame - it can be plywood, as described above, but more often, for reasons of economy, fiberboard is chosen. A sheet of material cut to the required size is laid on a flat table, then a frame is laid on it and a marking of its location is made on the facing material. After that, the frame is removed, and wood glue is thickly applied to the marked stripes. The frame is then returned to its place and firmly pressed against the cladding material. In this position, under the press, the entire structure should dry well. It should be noted that very often, for the rigidity of the frame structure, one or two crossbars are mounted between its side rails.
	Further, the inner space of the frame is filled with one of the selected filler materials - it can be timber, MDF pieces or other mentioned waste from the woodworking industry, or low quality wood. So, in principle, all panel structures are made, and they differ only in the type of filling. All filling elements are glued to each other, and also glued to the bottom sheet of facing material and frame beams. Before covering the entire structure with cladding on top, let the glue dry well.
	This diagram shows a frame-panel structure, and inserts are clearly visible on it, which are usually installed in hollow and shallow-hollow versions. These elements are designed to rigidly insert a lock or doorknob.
	While the glue dries, you need to prepare the material for facing the outside. For this, the perimeter of the frame is measured and one or two canvases of the finishing material are cut out according to these dimensions. If you plan to glue two sheets, then first a regular fiberboard is glued, and on top of it - a laminated sheet or veneered plywood. It is advisable to send the door leaf under a press, which can be built independently, for example, by covering the leaf with plastic wrap, then lay gypsum boards on top of it.
	If desired, instead of a laminated sheet for sheathing, you can use slats made of natural wood, but they will have to be screwed to the frame by drilling holes "under the sweep" in order to drown the caps of the screws. Subsequently, these holes are filled with a mixture of sawdust and wood glue. When it dries, the surface should be sanded with sandpaper.
	Then, all the corner parts and ends of the door leaf must be processed with a router - only then the door will look high-quality and neat. A lock or latch handle is cut into the finished door leaf, and the hinges are also fixed. Finally, the door is hung in the door frame.

It should be noted that frame doors are made in the same way - their internal space is additionally reinforced with a frame made of timber or boards. But, before making a frame door, it is necessary to make accurate calculations and draw up a drawing.

Manufacturing of a paneled door

Paneled doors have the most complex design, and you cannot do without special carpentry tools and stable skills in working with them, since the elements require special processing.

Paneled doors consist of several parts, which can be made of solid boards or laminated veneer lumber and plywood. Naturally, they differ significantly in price. You can find a lot on sale different models, but for self-production in the absence of significant experience in the art of carpentry, it is best to choose the simplest option.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	The first thing to do when deciding to make a paneled door is to draw up a drawing of the future structure and put down the dimensions of each of the parts on it. This drawing shows a door with four panels: but) general form doors; b) spike nodal joints of the upper, middle and lower crossbars: 1- racks; 2- upper cross member; 3-lock cross member; 4- lower cross member; 5- upper centerpiece; 6 - lower centerpiece; 7- top panel; 8 - lower panel; 9 - key; 10 - groove.
	To make a frame, you will need a beam - it can be made from a solid board or from a glued beam. It will be somewhat more difficult to work with the latter, since due to the presence of glue in its structure, it has greater rigidity. A beam will be needed for vertical elements, crossbars and a centerpiece. The timber must be processed with a milling cutter, making grooves on one of its sides. And sometimes they immediately make curly cuts, which will replace the glazing bead. If you plan to use glazing bead, then the surfaces around the groove must be left flat.
	Then, you need to work on the crossbars by cutting out the connecting spikes on both sides and processing all the edges with a router. At the ends of the crossbars, grooves are made for installing panels and mullions in them. The end face of the upper and lower cross members, which will come out on the end face of the door, remains flat and solid.
	By the size of the spikes on the crossbars, slots are made in the vertical beams for assembling the door. Before making them, the bars are carefully marked.
	For the manufacture of panels, which will be installed in the grooves of the crossbars and beams, you will need plywood, board or chipboard. It should be noted that all or some of the panels can be replaced with glass. If it is glass that is chosen, then glazing beads will also be required, which will additionally fix the glass panels in the grooves and become a relief frame for them.
	Panels can have an absolutely flat plane, and after installation in the cut-out grooves, they are framed with figured cut-out glazing bead. In another case, the panels are processed around the perimeter with a milling cutter, with which you can achieve the desired relief configuration. If the second option is chosen, then plywood or boards are purchased for their manufacture, having a thickness greater than for flat panels - it can be 20 ÷ 25 mm. The edges of the panel are milled so that their thickness is 1 ÷ 2 mm less than the grooves cut in the transverse and vertical beams, since it must freely enter them.
	All prepared door elements are treated with antiseptic compounds and dried.
	Before assembly, you need to check all the elements again and, if necessary, additional markup. The assembly of all parts into a single canvas is carried out on the table, in a horizontal position. All thorns, before installation in the grooves, are coated with carpentry glue.
	The assembly of the canvas is carried out in the following sequence: - In the grooves of one of the vertical beams, according to the markings, all parts are glued in - crossbars and panels. - Further, mullions are installed, the spikes of which are also lubricated with glue. - Then, the remaining panels are mounted in the crossbars and middle panels. - After that, the remaining vertical bar is glued in.
	- Framing glazing beads are glued last. If necessary, a rubber mallet or a wooden mallet is used to install the spikes into the grooves. After that, the canvas is neatly knocked out from all sides, and its corners are checked with a building corner. Then, it is squeezed with clamps until it dries.
	On the finished door leaf, markings are made for installing hardware elements - hinges and a lock or just a door handle. After that, the parts are installed for fitting on the canvas, but they are not fixed - they are mounted only after the final surface finish.
	The door can be finished with acrylic lacquers or water-based paints. If necessary, the door surface can be made darker to emphasize the beauty of the textured wood pattern. For this, a stain is used, which can be applied in one or more layers. From above, the soaked wood can be coated with colorless varnish or hot wax. When the coating dries out, fittings are installed.

The position of the loops is approximately as shown in this diagram. In addition, the figure shows the dimensions of the gaps that should be observed when installing the leaf in the door frame.

These parameters are, in principle, identical for the installation of any type of canvases in the door frame.

In conclusion, it must be said that it is quite difficult to make a wooden door on your own, without experience in carpentry. Moreover, it is practically impossible to do without special tools, which not everyone has in their home "arsenal". Therefore, if you want the door to look perfect, then it is best to order it from a professional craftsman or buy a ready-made version.

Video: master class on making a paneled door from a solid wood

But if, nevertheless, it is decided to experiment or there is a persistent desire to learn how to make the always in-demand joinery, then it is imperative to purchase a high-quality tool, both manual and electric (including, necessarily, a milling cutter with a set of cutters) and learn how to work with it. Only after everything starts to work out well, you can try to make individual parts. In any case, if there is a desire to do such work, then you need to try your hand.

Find out how to do it yourself from the new article on our portal.

A hand-made wooden door has a number of advantages over purchased products. Such structures will protect the home from noise, make the room more comfortable and attractive, and when design decoration will become the final chord that will accentuate the interior. The popularity of wooden doors is due to the low thermal conductivity of the material, its environmental friendliness and the beauty of the texture.

To understand how to make a door from boards yourself, you need to decide where the structure will be installed. Doors are:

• made of solid wood;
• paneled;
• panel board;
• wireframe.

The wood species, grade and quantity are selected depending on the purpose of the door and the budget. Additionally, you will need wood glue and self-tapping screws, dowels or confirmations. It is advisable to choose a tree dried in special chambers. This prevents deformation of the plank door during operation.

Planks should be flat because planing makes the material thin. Depending on the purpose of the door, its board thickness can be 25-50 mm. Before making the structure, all boards must be carefully sanded with fine-grain emery paper or a grinding machine.

Paneled

Paneled doors are made of boards or solid timber, but the glued version is more popular. In order for the material to have a beautiful appearance, it is pasted over with wood veneer. If the door is made of high quality, it is difficult to distinguish it from a solid wood structure.

A simple paneled product is a frame of 2 vertical and 3 horizontal crossbars. They are connected to each other using thorns or dowels. To give the structure additional strength, all parts are glued together. Also, the number of crossbars affects the rigidity of the product. The more there are, the more durable the door will be.

Panels made of thin boards are inserted into the openings that are formed between the frame elements. They also use plywood, you can install MDF, chipboard or glass. Panels can be covered with veneer or plastic, which imitates the texture of wood. The thickness of the panels does not exceed 1/3 of the thickness of the frame timber. The inserts are fixed by means of glazing beads or recesses in the frame. Since the panels are thin, the doors are used only as interior partitions.

These structures are not inferior to analogues made of solid wood in terms of strength and durability. Sometimes a canvas can cost much more than an array. It all depends on what kind of wood and beams the frame is made of, as well as what kind of veneer is made of.

From an array

Massive doors are assembled from thick boards, which are connected together to form a flat surface. The tree can be grooved or planed. For rigidity, horizontal jumpers must be installed.

Depending on the functional purpose, different types of wood are used for doors. For entrance structures, a dried dense material is chosen, for example:

1. larch;
2. cedar;
3. alder, etc.

With proper processing and care of the material, the product can serve for several decades. The appearance of the door can be as simple as it contains carvings or other embossed design. It should be noted that solid wood structures are heavy. Therefore, they are more often used as entrance doors, but there are also homemade interior doors. Since the latter are not subject to weathering, a species of wood with a lower density is selected, the shield is also taken thinner.

How to make a wooden door?

Instructions for making paneled doors and solid wood will be slightly different. For each type, you will need special tools and accessories. However, the preparatory stage will be similar: the tree must be peeled of bark and sanded. It is advisable to choose dry boards without knots and cracks. If there are any, the gaps are sealed with a special putty.

Instruments

To make wooden doors with your own hands, you will need a large workbench and the following tools:

• milling machine;
• plane;
• hacksaw;
• screwdriver;
• ruler, tape measure and pencil;
• hammer and screwdriver;
• building level;
• chisels;
• sandpaper or sander.

Measurements

Before installing the door to the house, measurements of the opening are made in order to determine the dimensions of the wooden canvas. To do this, you need a tape measure and a pencil. Measurements of the width of the opening, its height and wall thickness. The distance between opposite sides should be checked in several places. Sometimes the doorway can be uneven. If the dimensions do not match, work is carried out to expand or narrow the passage.

Massive doors are made of different types of wood and are inserted into reinforced openings, since the structure is heavy. In this case, the dimensions of the wooden product will be smaller.

Formation of a jar and a method of its manufacture

The doorway in a wooden house must have a window or casing. It is made in the form of a prefabricated frame made of sidewalls, apex and a threshold. Regardless of the type of wood and type of timber, the casing is made as follows:

1. a thorn or groove is cut out at the end of the log;
2. make structural elements;
3. choice of P or T-shaped connection;
4. fitting parts;
5. collection of casing and installation in the opening;
6. door leaf installation.

First, the side parts are installed, and then the threshold and the top. After the installation of the partition, the platbands are nailed.

Marking and execution of cuts

When the casing is built, they begin to perform the marking and cuts. First of all, all the details are marked so as not to be confused. If a tenon and a groove is chosen as a connection method, it is necessary to make a complete marking of them. The eyelet should be centered on the board. The size of the spike is one third of the thickness of the material. In this case, the groove should be made 0.5-1 mm smaller than the spike so that there is a possibility of adjustment.

The nest is carefully drilled out with a drill, and then cleaned with a chisel. The connection must be firmly adjusted to avoid loosening the structure.

Door frame manufacturing

The manufacture of a door from wood is preceded by the creation door frame... Cut parts of the required size. The most reliable fastening of wooden parts is a tongue-groove. If it's difficult to make it yourself, a diagonal one is used. In this case, the edges of the boards are cut at an angle of 45 °. The cutting accuracy is ensured by the miter box.

Fabrication of canvas

The size of the canvas must correspond to the box. First, all door elements are polished. This operation can be performed using a grinder, grinder with a grinding wheel, or use simple sandpaper. After that, they start milling. If the boards are not grooved, fastening should be done by means of a tenon and a groove. For this, a recess is cut out with a cutter of the required size on one side of the board, and a ledge is made on the other. Then the material is cut according to the drawing.

To make yourself between room door, it is necessary to make cross members. They are needed to strap the shield. They are given a trapezoidal shape and a depression in the canvas is chosen, which can be half or 1/3 of the thickness of the shield.

The inserts can be even or also processed by a milling machine, which achieves the necessary relief of the edges of the panels. In this case, the edges of the inserts should be 1-2 mm less than the groove width.

If a paneled door structure is planned, a frame is made from a bar or thick boards. The base consists of 2 longitudinal members and at least 3 cross members. Fastening of parts to each other is carried out on the thorn-groove connection. The beam, fastened in this way, will hold securely. However, the joints are additionally lubricated with glue. To install the panels, a groove is cut out from the inside of the frame with a milling cutter.

All wood products should be treated with antiseptic agents. If the structure is assembled from several rows, then all surfaces of the boards should be covered protective equipment.

Blade assembly and fittings insertion

The boards are assembled into a shield in such a way that the rings are directed to one side of the door leaf. All work must be performed on a wide table, where it is possible to completely lay the structure. It is important that the surface is level. This will allow you to connect all the parts without distortions and as tightly as possible to each other. Otherwise, the canvas can lead, and the boards are deformed. Then it will be necessary to remove distortions with a router, which will lead to a decrease in the thickness of the entire structure.

To make interior doors with your own hands, you should grease all joints with carpentry glue, and press the assembled canvas with clamps. If necessary, add a second or third layer of wood. Each subsequent one is laid perpendicular to the previous one. The cross member is installed in the finished groove. The finished canvas is varnished.

For wooden doors, stationary or push handles with a latch are used. To install them, you need to make a groove in the structure. If the woods are soft, they lend themselves well to processing. Fix the fittings with self-tapping screws.

Work with a glass insert and typesetting panels

To install glass panels, an internal crate is made or fixed with glazing beads. The first option is better, since it will not allow the glass to fall out of the profile after a strong impact. The lathing is made of thin bars that are attached to the main harness. Additionally, the glass is lubricated with silicone or liquid nails. Wood panels are installed in the same way.

How to make interior doors with your own hands

Do-it-yourself interior doors are easy to do if you have basic skills in working with wood. This requires:

• make measurements of the opening;
• make a loot;
• prepare the canvas;
• process the material with protective equipment;
• assemble the entire structure into a single whole;
• install fittings.

Additional finishing with veneer

If desired, the canvas is trimmed with veneer. At home, only hot veneering is possible, in which the material is fixed to the surface with an adhesive. It is advisable to carry out such decoration if the appearance of the wood is not entirely good.

Installation

First, the box is mounted using polyurethane foam. After hardening, they begin to install the canvas. For wooden structures it is better to choose removable hinges. They are capable of supporting heavy weight and are easy to install. Such hinges are suitable for a barn door, entrance or interior design.

Adjustment

If the door cannot be closed due to the skewing of the box, remove the canvas and check the joints of the beams. An angle of 90 ° must be observed. Correct the box if necessary. When loops become the cause, the attachment point is deepened or completely changed. The last option suitable when there is no way to correct the current location of the loops.

To save money, you can use second-class wood for the manufacture of doors. To prevent this from being noticeable, veneering can be done. As interior designs it is worth choosing paneled doors. Less wood is used in their manufacture, which will significantly reduce material costs.

Strength of character lies not in the ability to break through walls, but in the ability to find doors. Better yet, not only be able to find them, but also be able to create these doors. This article will focus on how to realize your strength in everyday life and how to make a door with your own hands.

How to prepare

It would seem that the modern market is so wide that you can find a door of any shape, size and quality on it. But this is not always the case. Especially when it comes to an exclusive, a special type of wood, a spectacular stained glass window, an uncommon form. Buying a standard factory design is boring and mediocre. And making a door with your own hands is a completely simple task, especially if there is a suitable canvas, a pair skillful hands and a little time.

However, in order to make a beautiful and high-quality door yourself, you need to first study the subtleties and nuances of the material, evaluate the complexity of technology and calculations, and identify pitfalls during its installation.

First you need to prepare all the materials and tools that you will need for work. Indeed, the final result is influenced not only by the quality of the raw materials themselves, but also by the quality and reliability of the auxiliary tools and materials that were used in the assembly and installation of the door. And this will require:

• manual milling machine. With its help, the processing of a wooden product is carried out, it is shaped, the groove elements are grinded;
• a circular saw with a manual mechanism;
• Bulgarian. In this case, it will serve for sanding wood;
• screwdriver for door mounting;
• building level and tape measure;
• a hammer;
• pencil or marker.

Regardless of what type of product needs to be made, whether it be interior, entrance or doors for a summer cottage, a single technology is used for all. Therefore, after studying this article, you can easily make homemade doors for any needs. In addition to tools, you will also need the material itself. As a rule, they choose an array of different types of wood: oak, ash, birch, larch, pine.

Some people prefer exotic species: mahogany, wenge, beech. The choice depends on personal preference, the type of room and the overall concept of the interior.

When making a structure with your own hands, you need to take into account the fact that wooden canvas will require pre-treatment, especially for hard wood. When choosing a wooden canvas, you need to focus on ensuring that the wood is even, smooth. There should be no cracks or knot holes. The selected board is first dried in a well-ventilated room at a temperature of about 25 ° C.

You can dry outside, but only in dry weather, preferably in summer. middle lane Russia. Depending on the type of wood and its initial state, it can take up to ten days to dry the web.

Popular models

Before proceeding to the manufacture of doors, you need to think about what type they will be (hinged or sliding), decide on the shape and design. The most important characteristics of all doors is functionality and appearance because they will integral element interior.

Let's characterize the main models:

• Very popular today sliding doors. The door of the "compartment" type can be either single-leaf or with two leaves. Sliding doors on rollers are an alternative to conventional options with swing doors, especially if there is an acute issue of saving space. There are two types of sliding doors: bottom rails and top rails. So, using a mechanical system with lower guides, the door "walks" along the built-in rollers, reducing the load on the walls.

It is advantageous to use such a sliding door fastening system for thin partitions in apartments.

• Among compartment doors designs with a hinged mechanism are especially popular. Hinged sliding doors are usually made of glass, due to its lower weight compared to solid wooden counterparts. Besides that given type the door also takes up little space in the apartment, plus it is also in the fact that its glass surface perfectly transmits light into the room. This option is very appropriate if you plan to overhaul the "Khrushchev" in order to free the already small area of ​​the apartment from unnecessary structures.

• Book-door, like a compartment door, helps to maintain useful space in the apartment. Its folding structure consists of two separate canvases, interconnected so that when opened, one part falls on the other, the same one, without cluttering the interior. They are often found in dressing rooms and in bathrooms adjacent to the bedroom.

• Folding door- another option for small apartments. Compared to swing doors, such doors can save up to two meters of space. This type of product can be used in any interior. The design of the accordion doors is varied. There are even interesting options with intricate stained glass windows.

• Everyone knows paneled doors remain popular to this day because of their aesthetic characteristics. The paneled door differs from the usual one by the fact that additional thinner canvases are inserted inside the door frame. Thus, even the most boring door can be made very original using inserts with textured patterns or carvings. The use of these doors - not only office rooms but also residential buildings and apartments.

Manufacturing

A standard hinged door consists of several parts:

• door frame;
• door leafs;
• fasteners;
• castle;
• frames in the form of platbands.

If the fabric of the product is not a monolithic board from an array, but has several components, it is necessary to clarify what they will be made of and what they are functional purpose... The frame of the structure is the frame. It sets the main dimensions of the product, gives it rigidity and shape. The outer visible part of the canvas is represented by the sheathing. In this capacity, not only wooden panels can serve, but also plastic profiles or glass stained-glass windows.

If the task is to make the front door, then you need to take care of the insulation, which is placed inside, under the cladding.

This article will provide information on how to independently make a door of the simplest design with a hinged fastening mechanism, without insulation and difficult options cladding such as glass decorative elements and carved panels.

Measurements

Seven times measure cut once. This proverb will be more appropriate than ever when making your own door. Indeed, the final result will depend on how correctly the measurements are made. And you don't need to figure out which parts to measure. All the main parameters have long been known, it is enough just to write them down on a sheet of paper and measure them using an ordinary construction tape.

It is imperative to measure:

• door width (distance from the left to the right edge of the leaf);
• door height (distance from the floor to the top point);
• the width of the doorway;
• the thickness of the doorway;
• the slope of the opening (if there are distortions);
• evenness (determine the elements, the size of which differs from the main one).

When determining the width of the product, it is recommended to measure the distance between the side parts of the opening in the floor area, in the center of the opening and at the upper border of the opening and find average... If necessary, if these values ​​differ, the opening can be trimmed.

For interior door the width is usually 80-90 cm, for the entrance - 90-120 cm. The height of the door is determined by the height of the opening and is approximately 200-210 cm. Measurements are taken with the same tape measure from the floor to the top point of the doorway.

It should be borne in mind that if there is no floor covering in the apartment yet, then the measured height will not be entirely accurate, therefore first it is recommended to finish work with the floor so that all parameters of the future door are taken into account correctly. When determining the height of the door, measurements are also carried out at three points (extreme left, center and extreme right).

The thickness of the doorway is measured similar to the width of the door. You just need to take into account that the width of the box will be slightly larger, since it is necessary to leave a distance between the door and the box for free movement of the door. And yet, when forming the box, it should be remembered that its width should be several centimeters less than the measured width of the opening, since it is necessary to leave technological voids during installation.

The thickness of the doorway is measured at six points (thickness at the bottom, middle, top for the left edge and the same positions for the right edge). This parameter will depend on the thickness of the wall into which the door will be mounted. For the entrance, it is usually more than for the interior, but there are exceptions. Here you should also pay attention to the presence of non-standard dimensions of the thickness of the opening. In this case, it is necessary to provide for additions that will compensate for this moment.

In order to simplify the installation of the structure, it is necessary to first determine the evenness of the opening... Through building level check the vertical of the opening (three points) and the diagonal. Using a tape measure, measure the distance inside the opening diagonally, from the top corner to the bottom, for each side. Both values ​​should be approximately equal. In the case of strong deviations, not only the appearance of the structure will deteriorate, but also the reliability of the fastening system is called into question.

After the basic parameters have been measured, proceed to the correction of irregularities and distortions. To do this, they carry out plastering of these places or cut off the excess with the help of a grinder. Ideal option alignment of the opening with drywall sheets can become.

Eliminating the shortcomings identified in the process of measuring the dimensions of the product will certainly have a positive effect on further work and will eliminate many unpleasant moments during installation.

Materials (edit)

Modern market oversaturated with various door options from a variety of materials. However, the tree remains traditional. Thanks to its high rates quality, as well as the property of being perfectly combined with wooden furniture and parquet boards, wooden doors have become more in demand, especially in the interiors of apartments and country houses.

In addition to their aesthetic characteristics, wooden products have a number of other advantages: the strength of the material, the ease of processing the material, the ability to retain heat, good sound insulation, as well as environmental friendliness.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that if the choice fell on a wooden door, then all other parts must also be made of wood (box, platbands, extensions).

Among the shortcomings of wood, one can note the flammability, the ability to absorb moisture and expand, and, of course, the high cost.

The most popular, but not the easiest to manufacture, are paneled doors. It is better to use ready-made cutters as internal inserts, since cutting them yourself is laborious work. On the construction market you can purchase a set of cutters for the future door. To save on material, the door leaf can be made of boards, instead of a wide monolithic leaf.

If you need to make a door to a summer cottage or a bathhouse, you can use even cheaper materials. A good alternative to solid wood would be a plywood door. This is a fairly strong material; during its manufacture, the peeled veneer sheets are glued to each other so that the fibers of one sheet are perpendicular to the fibers of the other. The outer layers of plywood are pasted over with aspen, pine or larch veneer (these types of veneer have good strength and aesthetic appearance).

Lining products are also an inexpensive option. The advantage of this material is that in order to make a door, it is not necessary to use a factory lining, you can make separate profiles from scrap materials.

except natural materials, synthetic polycarbonates are widely used. Choice of this material for the manufacture of a door, it is advantageous to do when it is assumed that unfavorable weather conditions (humidity, temperature) will affect the structure. But if earlier polycarbonate was used for the manufacture of greenhouses, now it is easily used for entrance doors, the main thing is to provide a reliable base and insulation.

If desired, you can build a structure from other polymers. An aluminum frame with plexiglass inserts is often made. Looks pretty stylish, but these materials are quite expensive.

How to make a door frame?

Before you start assembling the door frame, you need to study its structure. So, the door frame consists of four main parts: two pillars (the longest parts), a threshold and an upper crossbar (short parts). To begin with, measure the length of the racks. In the case of using a threshold, it is equal to the length of the door plus 2-3 centimeters for a gap on each side. If there is no threshold, then instead of a gap from the bottom, add 15-20 centimeters. This will allow the door to move freely from the floor.

The measured values ​​are traced on the canvas and each rack is cut out with a special knife.

The crossbar and the threshold are the same components. Their length consists of the width of the door, the same two gaps and the thickness of the frame. The measured dimensions are transferred to a wooden canvas and one or two elements are cut out, depending on the need for a threshold. In the upper crosspiece of the box, grooves are cut out, marking the lines where the posts intersect with the upper crossbar, and carefully cut these sections with a jigsaw on each side.

After all the grooves have been cut, the uprights and crossbar are aligned on the floor to make sure they match. After that, the cut out parts are carefully sanded with sandpaper, eliminating all irregularities and rough roughness. When all the elements of the box are ready, you can start assembling.

In order to assemble the structure, you will need a drill or screwdriver. A 2-3 mm drill is inserted into the screwdriver and holes are drilled in the aligned corners of the future box. These holes will keep the material intact when screwing in the screws. Screw the screws into each hole with a Phillips drill. The door frame is almost complete.

To make sure that the box is made correctly, you need to place it on the floor and put the selected door leaf inside, assessing the presence of gaps between them. It is worth noting that if the task is to independently make a sliding structure, then you need to take into account its distinctive mechanism. When opened, such a door will move to the side, like a pencil case (drive into the wall or lie on it), therefore, when forming the box, a groove for the door should be provided in one of the racks.

How to make the door itself: step by step instructions

Now let's look at how to make the door itself. For outbuildings, the door will be a simple shield made of separate boards, fastened together with wooden straps. Interior wooden doors should have a more aesthetic appearance; simple fittings are not applicable here.

Work should be carried out on a joinery stand or on a table that will allow the product to be fully positioned on it.

To form the door leaf, grooved boards with grooves are used (you can also cut the grooves yourself). The thickness of the boards should be from 2.5 to 4 centimeters, depending on whether it will be an interior or an entrance door. Prepared boards are folded into a shield. If grooved boards are taken, then the grooves are removed on the outer boards using a circular saw.

The boards are glued together with carpentry glue, while the pattern of the annual rings must be observed (they must lie in the same direction so that an imbalance does not stand out on the finished product). The blank of the door is placed in a vice in order to combine the elements more tightly, and the glue is allowed to dry. After that, the entire surface of the web is passed with a milling machine, Special attention give joints and uneven fragments.

If the thickness of the boards is not sufficient to use the door as an entrance, then you can glue the boards in two layers. Such a door will be quite massive and heavy.

Next, proceed to the design of the finished shield. Using a stencil, transfer the drawing onto a wooden canvas, first with a pencil. Using a router with a manual mechanism, they carefully cut out the pattern, changing the cutters. The finished drawing and the canvas itself should be treated with sandpaper, then blotted with a special antiseptic solution. If the door is entrance, then it must be treated with moisture-resistant agents and flame retardants. So it will last much longer.

How to insert?

On the door frame, mark the places where the hinges will be located. Marks are also made on the door leaf in the appropriate places. To do this, put it in a vertical position, the top will be on the side where the hinges are attached. On the reverse side, mark the location of the castle. Previously, the door is placed in a box, the marking is checked, the location of the lock tongue on the box is noted, then the hinges are inserted, then they are applied to the door and to the box, drilled with a drill. The tongue is carefully cut with a jigsaw.

In order to correctly install the door lock, it is first applied to the installation site on the product, circled, and all the necessary technological holes are marked with dots. After the depth of installation of the lock has been determined, it is placed in the marked place and screwed on. Now that all the parts are ready, you need to install them correctly.

First, we insert the door frame into the opening. We align and secure it with wedges. You can adjust the box already mounted in the wall by hitting the wedges with a hammer. Then dowels and self-tapping screws are inserted into the holes drilled in the wall and box. And the last and most important thing is the assembly of the door and the frame.

It is better to perform this operation together to avoid injury, since the door leaf is a heavy structure. Holding the door in weight, we fix the hinges with self-tapping screws.

After the assembly of the main parts is completed, you can do the platbands. It is easier to buy ready-made in the store or make it yourself using wooden blanks 1-1.5 cm thick and a simple jigsaw. Each edge of the casing is cut at a 45 degree angle and adjusted to length. Finished products are fixed at the level of the box using wood glue or small nails.

In general, the work of installing the door, with a competent approach and quality materials, will take no more than two days. And the above recommendations can be used to make doors from other materials, changing only some of the tools.

Finishing

Giving the finished product a finished look will help finishing... You can also do it yourself, it is more pleasant and less complicated work than installing and assembling the door itself. Door finishing can be done as follows:

• door painting;
• varnishing;
• pasting with wallpaper or decorative film;
• decoupage;
• insert of mirrors and colored glasses;
• lining with fabric;
• the use of methods of aging a wooden canvas.

When starting repairs in an apartment, I want not only to update the wallpaper on the walls, but also to completely change the interior of the rooms. Therefore, there is often a desire to change all the doors that are in the house. And put something unusual, comfortable and beautiful. Many go to the store and buy ready-made doors, but the most interesting thing is to make them with your own hands. Anyone can do self-production home master, for this you need to decide on their design, choose the material and purchase the necessary tools.

How to correctly calculate the doors

All self-manufacturing work begins with calculations. First you need to measure doorway, into which the doors will be installed. Opening measurements are carried out sequentially:

There are standard sizes of door leaves: 60, 70, 80, 90 cm wide and up to 2 m high.

But your door can be made individual size, if the opening or the way of opening allows it: sliding or barn doors do not depend on the size of the opening, since they are located behind it.

Sliding doors are easy to use: they do not take up space when opened

When calculating the box, you need to decide whether to make a threshold or not. Usually thresholds are installed in the bathroom and kitchen, but it all depends on the preferences of the owner. It is also determined in advance with the design of the door - on one or both sides - the number of platbands depends on this, if the door is conceived with inserts.

The more inserts made of glass or other materials in the door, the more platbands will be required to fix them

Additionally taken into account required amount handles, hinges or other fasteners based on the design of the opening, as well as locking and fixing devices, if necessary.

Required tools

To make doors yourself, you will need the following tools:

If there is a threshold, then the door leaf is made on all sides 2-3 mm smaller than the door frame, and if it is absent, a gap of 5-10 mm is left from below, so that the floor covering will not be damaged when opening the doors.

Material selection

It is important to decide: what to make the door from and what material to use for the exterior.

The following materials can be the basis for an interior door:

• natural wood - it's easy to work with it, the doors are strong, beautiful and durable. Disadvantages: heavy doors, wood absorbs moisture. Often only a frame is made of wood, and other materials are used for cladding;
• MDF plate - the door can consist entirely of plates, but if it is sheathed along the frame, then corrugated cardboard or other filler is placed inside. This is a cheaper material, it is not afraid of moisture;
• Chipboard - consists of compressed shavings glued with synthetic resins;
• plastic, glass, aluminum or stainless steel are usually used in production, but at home it is difficult to make a door out of them.

Gallery: doors made of different materials

Double-leaf glass doors are made of tempered glass and decorated with designs Two halves of a double-leaf plastic door with colored glass can be decorated in different ways, if one of them is rarely used The barn door made of matte plastic is perfect for a bathroom or dressing room Sliding door made of aluminum frame and colored plastic is beautiful, lightweight and easy to use Ordinary paneled doors can be made with a glass insert and stand out in the interior with a bright color. Arched door with decorative trim will become an independent decoration of a large room A blind wooden door with inserts made of thin MDF sheets will harmoniously fit into a classic-style room

Most often, do-it-yourself interior doors are made of wood, so you need to determine which wood is best to choose. Consider different breeds:

• pine - easy to handle, but dries up over time; differs in low cost;
• alder - more porous and softer wood, easy to process, but not resistant to decay;
• birch is a dense and viscous wood with a beautiful structure, but short-lived;
• oak - durable and resistant to mechanical damage, but difficult to work with, as it cracks along the fibers;
• beech - durable, but afraid of changes in temperature and humidity;
• larch - with a beautiful structure, easy to process, durable;
• walnut - with a homogeneous structure, strong and durable;
• maple - resistant to moisture, easy to process and polish.

For decorative cladding the following materials are used for the door leaf and frame:

• natural veneer - thinly cut sheets or strips of wood that are glued to any substrate. Veneer allows you to imitate solid wood;

  Natural veneer has a textured surface, can be easily glued to wood and amenable to restoration

• eco-veneer - pressed products consisting of glued wood fibers. Eco-veneer is similar to natural, but costs less;
• laminate - a film of several layers of paper. A high-quality laminate looks beautiful and serves for a long time, and a low-quality one - peels off over time;

  Vinyl laminate is durable, suitable for all surfaces, but will fade in direct sunlight

• plastic - sheets of synthetic polymers. Plastic is moisture resistant and is not afraid of temperature changes, but with strong heating it emits harmful substances;
• paint - acrylic, alkyd, nitro paint;
• varnish - allows you to keep the structure of the wood from moisture.

The choice of materials depends on the preferences of the owners and the design of the doors.

Video: characteristics of doors made of different materials

How to make a door with your own hands

Usually, swing doors are made with their own hands, so we will consider the manufacturing sequence using their example. For self-production of an interior door, you will need:

• board: 40 mm thick and 100 mm wide, no more than 6 m;
• Chipboard: will be used to insert inside the door leaf. Instead, you can take, for example, glass;
• self-tapping screws (or wooden confirmation pins), glue, varnish or paint.

The manufacturing technology of such a door is simple. The work is carried out in several stages:

1. Preparing the board. According to the exact dimensions, the board is cut into 4 parts: the top, bottom and sides of the door leaf. The grinder's grinding disc is used to polish wide surfaces. The ends need not be processed.

   Boards are first cut to size and then sanded

2. Milling. The ends of the boards are rounded off with a hand mill. At one of the ends, a groove is made for installing chipboard. The groove must match the thickness of this sheet. It is usually made 16 mm wide and 15–20 mm deep.

   A hand router is used to machine the ends of boards and cut grooves

3. Trimming the ends. With a circular or hand saw, the ends of the boards are trimmed at an angle of 45 degrees. At the extreme points of the racks, the length should be equal to the height of the door leaf, and at the extreme points of the upper and lower boards - its width.
   

   It is necessary to cut the boards at an angle of 45 degrees so that the parts of the door leaf are connected to each other evenly, without gaps

4. Open chipboard. Calculation of the width of the sheet: subtract the width of the two pillars from the width of the door leaf and add the depth of the two grooves. The length of the sheet is calculated in the same way. For a door 80 × 200 cm, it turns out - width: 800-100x2 + 20x2 = 640 mm, length: 2000-150x2 + 2x20 = 1740 mm.

   You can cut the chipboard yourself or order a finished sheet according to your size

5. Pre-assembly. Knocking rubber mallet, boards are carefully put on the chipboard sheet. The tightness of the fasteners is checked. Then the boards are removed, holes are drilled in the corners for self-tapping screws. But you can also attach such a door to wooden confirmation pins.
6. Insert of locks, latches and awnings. It is better to put them on the disassembled door, so as not to accidentally damage the grooves of the insert by pressing.
   

   It is better to attach the hinges, handle and lock to the door in a disassembled state so as not to damage the insert

7. Painting and assembly. After painting and varnishing the boards, the door leaf is reassembled and fixed. The boards are fixed with grooves on the chipboard. If wooden pins are used instead of self-tapping screws, they are greased with glue and inserted into the prepared holes.

Decorating the door is an important step. If, instead of painting, veneer or laminate is chosen, then it is better to entrust this process to specialists.

Video: simple do-it-yourself side door

Do-it-yourself steam room door

For the steam room, you can independently make a door from solid wood. The work is performed in the following sequence:

1. Open the boards. You will need tongue-and-groove boards and beams 30 mm thick. To calculate the number of boards, you need to know their dimensions and the size of the door leaf. If the door is 2 m high, then the boards are sawn to length: 2000–2x30 = 1940 mm.
2. Assembly of boards. The boards are laid out in a row, leveled and glued together with furniture glue. Tightly knocked down with a mallet and squeezed with clamps until the glue dries.
   

   The boards are connected using grooves, which are coated with glue

3. Preparation and fixation of the timber. A bar, sawn into two long and two short blanks, is attached to the self-tapping screws along the perimeter of the canvas.
4. Strengthening the door. To strengthen the structure, two transverse strips are installed on top of the boards.

   To strengthen the door leaf, transverse strips are installed: they are attached with self-tapping screws or glue

5. Fittings. Hinges and handles are attached. For the steam room, wooden handles are selected, since metal handles are very hot.
6. Treatment. Transparent deep impregnation compounds are used, which reliably protect the tree and do not emit harmful substances.

   It is dangerous to use varnish or paint to cover the steam room doors

The main unit of the sliding door is a sliding mechanism, it can be purchased at any hardware store. You will also need special hardware for sliding doors. The design consists of an upper rail or is complemented by a lower one.

Sliding doors save space

The length of the guide bar must be twice the width the door is full otherwise the door will not open completely.

The main thing for a sliding door is the low weight of the door leaf, if it is mounted only on the upper rail.

Manufacturing process:

1. Creating a door leaf. It is made of solid wood with inserts, but in a lightweight version so that the weight of the door does not interfere with the operation of the movable mechanism.
2. Creates a groove for the guide. A groove is made in the lower end of the door for the lower guide. It is cut in the center of the door leaf end to a depth of 3 mm.
3. Rollers are screwed to the upper end of the blade.

   The bottom lock prevents the door from jumping out of the rail

4. Installation of fittings. The lock is cut in and the handles are placed.
5. Fastening the guide profile. A guide is horizontally attached to the wall above the doorway. On the one hand, it should protrude by 5 cm, and on the other, by the width of the canvas.

   The upper guide is horizontally positioned: the accuracy is checked by the building level

6. Fastening the stop. A lower guide or stop is attached to the floor, along which the door will ride.
7. Door installation. The door rollers are inserted into the upper guide and closed with stops, and the door is put on the lower stop with a cut groove.

The pencil case door is similar in design to a sliding or sliding option. Its difference is that the door leaf is hidden in the wall.

If the wall is not bearing, then it is dismantled, and at this place they make a voluminous pencil case in which the door leaf is hidden.

The door leaf is hidden in the wall - this is convenient in small apartments

Stages of creating a pencil case door:

1. Creating a door leaf. You can do it yourself or purchase a ready-made one.
2. Plasterboard false wall construction. First, a frame is created from metal profiles, and space is left inside for the door. The niche should be 20 mm wider than the canvas so that the door does not scratch and moves freely.

   The frame of the false wall is assembled from metal profiles or from a wooden bar

3. Fixing the guide. The upper rail is fixed inside the false wall, the door leaf is hung on it.
4. Door travel adjustment. The free play of the door leaf is regulated: it should not touch the frame and reach the floor.
5. Frame sheathing. After adjusting the door, the pencil case frame is sewn on both sides with plasterboard, chipboard, OSB, etc.

   Sheathing of the frame is carried out only after installing and adjusting the course of the door leaf

Double doors

The design of a double-leaf door is no different from a single-leaf door. Only its overall size is larger, and the lock connects the sashes to each other.

These are two canvases installed in a common door frame. Double doors also open in different ways: like swing, sliding-sliding, pendulum or accordion doors.

The double-leaf plastic accordion door is convenient for the kitchen: it is rarely used, so it will last a long time

The width of a double-leaf door is usually in the range of 130-190 cm, this allows you to design wide openings.

The double-leaf door fits perfectly into the large hall and is convenient for receiving guests

Features and sequence of installation of a double-leaf door:

1. Choice of sashes - for this design, wood, plastic, glass, metal and other canvases are used. They can be purchased ready-made or made yourself. The main condition is to determine the size of the door frame and divide it in half (or into 4 parts if the door is folding).
   

   A double folding door made of four leaves perfectly complements a rustic interior

2. If a door with a lock is in classic style execution, a decorative element is installed on it, bridging the gap between the canvases.

   Sliding doors are made without a lock, so they do not need an additional element covering the central slot

3. Installation - mounting the door frame and hanging canvases is no different from a single-leaf structure. But it is advisable to install a double door with a partner.
4. Installation of fittings - inserting locks and handles is carried out after hanging and adjusting the doors.

Barn door

Barn doors help to decorate the premises semi-antique, are convenient to use.

The barn door is easy to install, takes up little space and is easy to operate

They got their name due to the fact that earlier similar sliding structures were used on barns and wagons with grain. Modern door leaves come in a variety of styles.

Barn double door made of wood in a classic style is suitable even for small apartments

Such doors are mounted both on sliding mechanisms and on rails or butterflies.

Barn door fasteners are made in different stylistic designs, so that you can choose them to suit your style of interior

The barn door is beautiful in any design.

The transparent double-leaf barn door looks weightless and fills the apartment with light

Sliding barn doors have gained their popularity due to the following advantages:

• they take care of the place: the canvas goes to the side along the wall;
• beautiful: often the barn door is the main element of the interior;
• fashionable: moving doors are installed in modern homes;
• ample opportunities: barn mounts are capable of withstanding a large weight; you can expand the doorway by increasing the open space; or to separate the wardrobe from the room with doors. And in studio apartments, such a door will also serve as a mobile partition.

A barn door with translucent canvases is good to use as cabinet doors or a built-in wardrobe room

It is easiest to make a barn door with your own hands from solid wood. The manufacturing process will be the same as for assembling the steam room door. But the difference is that the room door can be varnished or painted.

The barn door can be painted to match the color of the walls, and it will create a calm atmosphere in the home.

Video: barn mechanisms

The roto-door combines a swing and a sliding structure.

It opens both in one and the other direction. Due to the fact that after plowing, it also moves from the center, the useful area of ​​the room is saved.

The roto-door is convenient in the layout of small apartments and walk-through adjoining rooms

For a roto-door, you can make your own door leaf or buy a ready-made one. Since there is a complex opening mechanism here, you will have to purchase it in the store, you will not be able to do it yourself.

The roto-door has combined a sliding and hinged design, which allows you to open it and move it towards the door jamb

Disadvantages of rotary doors: high cost, the opening mechanism does not support heavy weight. Therefore, the door is used for beauty and has no protective function.

The large roto-door is made of plastic so that the opening mechanism does not deform under the weight

The rotary door is installed by professionals, but you can do it yourself if you follow the recommendations for the process. Roto doors are usually purchased at the time of overhaul, since for them it is necessary to form a doorway. During the installation of a rotating door, the following nuances must be taken into account:

1. Measurement accuracy. The structure between the box and the canvas should have a gap of no more than 5 mm, so it is important to make the right measurements.
2. Correct installation. During the installation of the door frame, it is necessary to strictly observe the level of verticality and horizontality, otherwise the mechanism will jam, the door will not move well.
3. Partition. Its thickness along the entire length must be the same, otherwise the door will be disrupted.
4. Adjustment. An important process: it is carried out in all directions of movement of the door leaf. After adjustment, it should move easily and close tightly.

If you decide to install the roto-door yourself, you must follow the technology for performing the work, but it is better to entrust the assembly of the swing mechanism to specialists.

Video: installation of the roto mechanism (part 1)

Video: installation of the roto mechanism (part 2)