Today, split systems are popular to maintain a favorable indoor climate. They consist of two parts: an external and an internal unit. Outdoor unit the air conditioner is of key importance for the quality operation of the equipment. We will understand its structure, principles of operation and features of installation and maintenance.

Equipment device

The external unit of the split system is called the condensing unit (KKB). It is a key element of climate control equipment that provides cooling or heating by changing the state of the refrigerant (working substance). KKB is a building that houses:

• compressor;
• condenser (heat exchanger);
• expansion coils;
• capillary tubes;
• 4-way valve;
• filter drier (receiver);
• fan.

The outdoor unit of the air conditioner is connected to the equipment in the room through a system of freon (heat-insulating copper) lines. There is a drainage line from the indoor unit to the outdoor unit.

KKB body is made of galvanized steel.

Features of the complete set

A number of KKB models are equipped with a special "winter kit". It is designed to maintain the performance of the device in winter time years at low temperatures. The winter kit works only for cooling, therefore it is optimal for installation in server rooms and other rooms with high level heat dissipation.

It includes the following elements:

• The fan controller turns off ventilation and turns it on when the condenser heats up.
• Heated drain tube.
• Compressor crankcase heating before starting.

The general principle of operation of a split system can be described as follows: it is removed from the room and taken out into the street warm air, in the opposite direction cooled air is supplied, which loses temperature, passing through the air conditioner and in contact with the refrigerant.

When switching the split system mode to heating, the reverse process occurs. The outdoor unit draws in cold air from the outside and raises the temperature to the desired level. The indoor unit supplies heated air to the room.

KKB works at the expense of physical properties a refrigerant that transfers energy when the state of aggregation changes.

The outdoor unit of the air conditioner works as follows:

1. The working substance is supplied from the container to the compressor in a gaseous state.
2. From the compressor under high pressure the refrigerant enters the condenser, where it turns into a liquid, giving off heat.
3. Having lost some of the energy, freon enters the highway.
4. From the line, the working substance passes into the throttling device, where it loses pressure and cools.
5. The cold liquid is transferred to the evaporator, where it actively circulates through the tubes.
6. The evaporator is blown with warm supply air by means of a fan.
7. Cold air is supplied to the room.
8. Warm supply air heats up the heat exchanger, passing through it before being supplied to the room.
9. The heat exchanger heats up the refrigerant, which turns into gas.
10. Freon, passing into a gaseous state, gives off cold to the air. From the heat exchanger, the gaseous refrigerant enters the compressor again, where the process is repeated.
11. A closed cycle of work is created.

main parameters

When choosing and buying an external block of a split system, you need to pay attention to four main characteristics:

• Size, height, width, length.
• Power.
• The length of the lines.

The dimensions of the outdoor units depend on the power and functionality of the equipment.

Average dimensional characteristics of the outdoor unit of a split system:

• width 80 cm;
• height 50 cm;
• thickness 30 cm.

The models on the market may have different capacities. It all depends on the purpose of the equipment. A standard household split system has a capacity that allows you to cover an area of ​​up to 100 sq. m.

An important characteristic of the outdoor unit is noise. If the air conditioner operates without noise in the room, then external block can cause significant inconvenience to neighbors. When choosing a model, it is better to clarify the indicator of the noise produced during the operation of the external unit. The admissible indicator is 32 dB.

You need to pay attention to permissible length connecting lines between blocks.

Do not exceed the distance that is stated in the technical data sheet of the model, since this can lead to a serious decrease in the efficiency of the equipment.

Installation of an outdoor unit involves several stages. At the first stage, the installation site is determined, equipment and tools are prepared. At the second stage, the marking and direct fixation of the equipment is performed. At the third stage, performance checks and testing are carried out.

Seat selection

Constructions modern buildings (apartment buildings, shopping and office centers) provide for the installation of air conditioners and split systems. This moment is laid even during the design. Special boxes are mounted on the facades of buildings. They serve two key purposes. First, the likelihood that the fasteners will be poorly executed is minimized. Secondly, the boxes are harmoniously integrated into the design of the building and do not spoil its appearance.

If there are no boxes in the building, then the choice of location must be made taking into account the following factors.

General rules for choosing a location for an air conditioner:

1. The unit is mounted on the wall adjacent to the apartment. You cannot fix the device on the "territory of neighbors". Before starting work, you need to clarify whether it is possible to install air conditioners on the facade of the building. The city authorities may issue a decree according to which such works are prohibited, since they spoil the historical or cultural appearance of the building. There may be other reasons for the ban.
2. The optimal places for installation are considered to be the space under the window, slightly below the sill, and the place to the side of the window. This arrangement will make it easier assembly work and will allow easy maintenance.
3. If the block cannot be mounted on the facade, you can install it inside an open balcony or loggia.

Installation tool

Before starting work, be sure to prepare a set of tools. To mount the outdoor unit, you will need:

• puncher;
• a drill for drilling a hole in the wall through which the line will be laid;
• drills for making holes for fixing brackets;
• a vacuum pump that removes moisture and air from the freon circuit;
• gauge manifold for connecting the refrigerant cylinder to the container in the block;
• a set of rollers that are needed for rolling copper tubes when connected to air conditioner valves;
• pipe cutter for cutting copper pipes;
• pipe bender for forming bends on tubes;
• standard set wrenches, hexagons, screwdrivers, nippers, level gauge.

When installing, it is imperative to take into account the following rules:

• Availability of admission fresh air... It is impossible to mount the outdoor unit in a closed space without air access and or with limited air supply (glazed loggia). Such an error will lead to overheating and damage to the KKB.
• During operation, you will periodically have to change the refrigerant. To do this, the valves must be positioned so that the master can freely and without risk make a replacement. On most models, the valve is located on the left side.
• It is necessary to provide for a competent drainage of condensate so that it does not fall on the walls, canopy or sidewalk.
• Mounts must be mounted on bearing structures, which must be designed for a load of several tens of kilograms. Do not fix the brackets on aerated concrete walls, on an external decorative facing layer or on a layer of insulation.
• The distance from the wall to the unit should be at least 10 cm. This distance will allow for ventilation and reduce the risk of overheating of the device. The distance from the wall to the inner wall of the unit must not be too great. It is impossible that direct sunlight falls on the hidden wall of the block.
• When laying connecting lines, avoid a large number bends, since they will lead to a decrease in the required intensity of movement of the refrigerant, this will reduce the efficiency of the air conditioner.
• It is recommended to equip a cornice that will protect the external unit of the air conditioner from direct moisture ingress.

Wall mounting is carried out using special brackets, which are usually included in the package. It looks like a profile of various sections bent at an angle of 90 degrees. It has several holes: some for fixing to the wall, others for mounting the unit. Load bearing capacity brackets exceed the weight of the air conditioner several times, so their use will ensure safety and reliability.

Installation process

Step-by-step instructions for installing an external air conditioner unit:

1. The layout of the block on the wall, holes and channels for trunk lines is being made. The key parameters mentioned above are taken into account.
2. Holes for brackets are made in the wall.
3. A hole is made in the wall for communications. A box is laid in the hole, into which the freon and drainage lines, electrical wiring are laid.
4. Brackets are fixed. To fix them, anchor bolts or dowels with "wood grouses" are used. The block is mounted on the brackets. It is fixed with bolts.
5. Strength, reliability and stability are tested.
6. The chamfer is removed from the freon tubes, and flaring is performed. The tubes are connected to the block.
7. Wires are being put into KKB. Their optimal length is measured, they are stripped and connected to the terminal block. Each wire is connected in accordance with electrical circuit to be attached to technical data sheet devices.
8. After installing the indoor unit, a vacuum pump is connected to the KKB, with the help of which air is dehumidified and evacuated from the lines and internal elements of the unit.
9. A protective box is put on.
10. The container for the refrigerant is filled with freon. Produced test run equipment, modes and correctness of operation are checked.

Breakdowns and malfunctions

Like any other appliance, the outdoor unit of the air conditioner can break. At low temperatures in winter, using the air conditioner without a winter kit may damage the compressor. External block under the influence of external natural factors it gets very cold and freezes. Under such conditions, freon cannot boil in the external unit. Liquid refrigerant enters the compressor, which leads to its breakdown.

To avoid compressor breakdowns from freezing of the outdoor unit, you should install a winter kit or use the device in accordance with technical instructions: heat the room only in autumn and spring when outside temperatures are positive.

One more possible view mechanical failures - failure of the fan, which pumps air into the unit. Premature fan wear can be caused by dirt and dust getting inside the unit.

Malfunctions in the electronics are associated with the failure of the control and regulation boards. There may be problems with the integrity of electrical networks.

Maintenance and care

In normal operation, the outdoor unit requires a routine maintenance inspection once every 6 months. The foreman inspects the mountings, checks the integrity and level of contamination of the filters, specifies the amount of refrigerant and measures the operating pressure of the networks.

The greatest difficulty in servicing is the replacement of the working fluid.

The refrigerant is chemical, which poses a danger to health, so you should trust a professional craftsman to work with it. You can check the condition of the filters, remove dust and dirt yourself.

The principle of dividing the air conditioner into external and internal units in split systems has significantly increased the ability to control the microclimate. The serviced area of ​​the premises has increased, the capacity of the cooling and heating systems has increased, etc.

The dimensions of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner directly depend on its capacity.

The higher the power, the larger the dimensions of the outdoor unit, but this should not be taken literally. Manufacturers have developed several standards for the dimensions of the external unit casing, each of which is sufficient to accommodate the units of the air conditioner with a capacity from and to. Crossing the upper power limit requires a large enclosure.

Structural elements of the outdoor unit that determine its dimensions

The main element of the air conditioner, which determines the dimensions of the outdoor unit, is the condenser of the cooling system, which becomes the evaporator when the unit is switched to heating mode. The higher the capacity of the air conditioner, the larger the area of ​​the evaporators and condenser.

A directly proportional relationship is already observed here. The area of ​​the condenser can be so large that two fans are required to blow it off. The dimensions of the compressor, monitoring and control devices, etc., have their influence on the dimensions of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, but although it is insignificant in geometry, it can be noticeable for the weight of the unit.

When size matters

The size of the outer block is great importance when choosing a place for its installation, when, for example, the dimensions do not allow it to be installed in an optimal position from the point of view of installation. The dimensions of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner are also reminiscent of its weight.

Usually in multi-storey buildings install air conditioners with a capacity of up to 9 kW, at which the maximum weight of the external unit is slightly more than 60 kilograms, which is a lot, and when installing air conditioners of higher power, the weight of the unit reaches 120 or more kilograms. For the installation of such a unit, a winch is already required.

A high capacity air conditioner requires more care to prevent overheating of the compressor. Let's give an example. In the usual electric kettle with a capacity of 1 kW, a liter of water boils in 3-4 minutes. When an air conditioner with a capacity of 5-7 kW is operating, in the same time, you can theoretically boil a bucket of water. Hence, the importance of caring for the outdoor unit is clear - cleaning the condenser surface from dust and dirt, especially such as poplar fluff.

We remind you that overheating of the compressor means, at least, additional losses of freon, and in the worst case, it will completely fail when it needs to be replaced and the entire split system needs to be repaired. Such work at its cost is tens of times higher than the cost of maintaining an air conditioner.

Today hardly any can do without an air conditioner. private house, apartment, and shopping centers and offices. Split systems are in the greatest demand today. This is a type of air conditioner that includes outdoor (portable) and indoor units. Their coordinated work is the key to the proper functioning of the split system.

What does the external block consist of?

Since the outdoor unit is exposed to high and low temperatures, increased requirements for the quality of performance are imposed on it. Its shape, resembling a rectangular parallelepiped, allows you to place a set of the following parts and nodes inside the body.

• Fan - blows on the condenser that cools the freon.
• Condenser - in it, freon cools down and passes from a gaseous state to a liquid.
• Compressor - pumping motor high blood pressure refrigerant, forcing it to move along the circuit (coil) of the refrigerator.
• Four-way valve - air conditioners designed for heating and cooling modes are equipped with it. This detail, on command from the control panel of the indoor unit, changes the movement of freon and, accordingly, cooling in the summer to heating in the cold season.
• ECU - this module is installed on outdoor units inverter air conditioners... It is they who are less sensitive to temperature fluctuations than devices with non-inverter control.
• Taps for connecting tracing pipes connecting the indoor unit to the outdoor unit. Freon flows through these pipes. Like wiring with a corrugation, they are protected by a box.
• Retaining grid - protects parts and assemblies of the outdoor unit from large objects, debris and insects.
• Cover that protects the electrical terminals from atmospheric precipitation.

This is the minimum set of elements, without which the circuit is broken, the operation of the device is impossible. Also, the outdoor unit may have the following parts.

• Voltage stabilizer is a protective circuit of electronic and electromechanical elements and assemblies that are especially sensitive to voltage surges.
• Visor - protects the outdoor unit from precipitation, reduces icing of the case.
• Condensate water hose. Connect it to the sewer or use it for drip irrigation growing nearby plantings. In winter, when heating and cooling are reversed, additional heating is used to prevent freezing - the condensate does not freeze with icicles on the body, but all flows down.

To prevent other troubles, put on the outdoor unit:

• thorns - so that the birds do not sit down;
• reinforcement cage (this is the vandal-proof grill) - to protect against theft, it is not necessary to install it on the balcony and above the 1st floor;
• mosquito net - to prevent poplar fluff and leaves from getting inside the block.

What is it needed for?

Window air conditioners are practically the last day of microclimate technology. They occupied one of the top window openings, and the noise from the outdoor unit in the room was business as usual... The efficiency of window air conditioners was much lower, and energy consumption was much higher. So, the external block of a split air conditioner (literally - a split air conditioning system) is designed to eliminate these disadvantages, namely:

• remove the main source of noise and heat in summer (or cold in winter) outside the building, structure, house;
• significantly reduce energy consumption and increase efficiency;
• simplify maintenance - do not disassemble the entire air conditioner for cleaning, washing and repair at once, but divide the work into 2 fronts.

The disadvantage of a split system - when installing and servicing at high altitudes, the customer (and the contractor) cannot do without the help of a truck crane or climbers.

Dimensions (edit)

Individuals - owners of apartments and summer cottages, for example, do not pursue multi-kilowatt power. If you do not create "autumn cold" in the room from 17 degrees, then the temperature of 21-24 degrees in summer is considered relatively normal for most people. The power of the air conditioner is taken into account up to 2.7 kW. Then average height the external block will be only half a meter. The width of the block is up to 0.7 m, the depth is up to 0.4, taking into account the removal of the device on suspensions when the distance from the wall is up to 10 cm. The dimensions of the external block of the air conditioner with a consumption of 3.5 kW can reach 55 × 76.5 × 28, 5 cm, however, each manufacturer changes these indicators downward. The weight of the complete outdoor unit is 12-25 kg.

The smallest air conditioner is Ballu BSWI-09HN1. The model is not devoid of the main blocks and assemblies necessary for high-quality cooling of the air inside the house. It is suitable for a room up to 16 m2, consumes only 900 W when the compressor is running, maintains a temperature of 21-23 degrees in summer in the heat, even if it is 35 degrees outside the window. The dimensions of the external block are 70 * 28.5 * 18.8 cm. The unit is compact, weighs a little more than a vacuum cleaner. You will hardly find a split system smaller and easier. It makes no sense to produce external blocks of a split system smaller than a postal parcel. Microconditioning of air is already the lot of self-made experimenters, although the technologies have been worked out.

Where to install?

If you live (or work) on the ground floor, then the installation height from the ground is at least 2 m. This will help to avoid damage or theft of the unit. Be sure to install the outdoor unit in a welded reinforcement cage with thick (from 1.5 cm) rods. The cage itself must be locked with a massive anti-burglar lock. Its door must have reinforced hinges. It is not necessary to lock the block “behind bars” on the second and subsequent floors.

On top floor In order not to call climbers or a truck crane (both of them charge hourly wages for the work), some firms put external blocks on the edge of the roof. The limiting length of the "line" (each of the pipes) for the refrigerant is 20 m. Bigger drop heights between outside and indoor unit significantly wears out the compressor. He spends additional energy to overcome the force of gravity acting on the height of the liquefied freon column.

As a result, the cold received in summer (or warm in winter) will be insufficient, not corresponding to the value declared by the manufacturer. Or the air conditioner will immediately issue an alarm after starting. The best way out- the location of the outdoor and indoor units at the same height. In a private house, the outer block is often placed on the facade of the building. This applies to all types of air conditioners, including the wall-mounted indoor unit.

Installation rules

Without observing the following rules, work installed air conditioner can be significantly complicated or completely impossible.

• Brackets and brackets are installed with a margin of safety up to several times than the strength required to suspend the outdoor unit. Ideally, both bindings together should be able to support the weight of a person.
• The load-bearing wall must be strong and smooth enough. Uneven walls with old plaster and loose blocks and bricks from which the masonry was carried out are excluded. Otherwise, the hanging device may fall and injure someone bystander.
• On facades with a porous finish, for example, composite soffits on foam plastic, fasteners are not mounted on the finish itself, but are drilled and cut into the wall (plaster, bricks). This will give suspended structure the necessary strength, inviolability. You can use the basket - a ready-made lattice structure, into which the external unit is lowered before connecting to the internal and mains voltage source.
• Do not put the outdoor unit of the air conditioner close to the wall - this will prevent it natural ventilation from the wind. The distance between the back wall of the outdoor unit and the wall finish is at least 0.1 m.
• The technician or owner of the air conditioner performing maintenance must have easy access to the outdoor unit. Mount the device so that it becomes possible to quickly clean it, quickly replace worn parts and assemblies.
• Do not hang the outdoor unit vertically or tilted to either side. Its horizontality is set strictly according to the level - this is necessary for uninterrupted circulation of freon in both directions.
• The place of installation can serve as a balcony or loggia, not covered with double-glazed windows. The glazed space will create a locked chamber, where soon the temperature will reach 55 degrees, and the operation of the air conditioner will be interrupted - the heat must go somewhere.

The placement of communications is also not contrary to the following rules.

1. The maximum distance between the external and internal blocks can reach 30 m. However, there is a risk of completely losing all the useful effect: while the cooled freon passes these 30 m, it will heat up almost to the initial temperature. The compressor will run continuously, which can lead to rapid wear. Modern split systems with protection based on a self-diagnostic module, after useless work for several minutes, finding that the temperature in the room has not dropped by a single degree, simply turn off the power to the compressor and fans of the indoor and outdoor units. The optimum distance is 5 m for each of both pipes, then the losses are small.
2. Copper pipes must be sealed and thermally insulated.
3. With absence fine finishing it is advisable to hide the track in the wall. Otherwise, place it in a box. But access to pipe and electrical connections must be present.
4. It is not allowed to sharply bend the pipes - this will complicate the passage of freon.
5. It is advisable to lay a separate line for the air conditioner with an automatic fuse.
6. Route the hose to drain the condensed water into the drain. It is recommended to run the drain line separately in the walls.
7. It is recommended not only to put engineering communications into the wall, but to pass them through a special cup holder - from the outside.
8. Freon pipelines, electric cable and drain hose hide in foam tubes. Then protect them with vinyl tape.
9. Before pumping freon with vacuum pump evacuation is carried out. It will remove the remaining air and prevent freon from turning into waste gases, the benefit of which is less. In addition, the tubes are protected against corrosion by vacuum.

The delivery of the installed air conditioner is preceded by a test run and a check of the device for freon leaks. No less important indicators- constant freon pressure and regularity of condensate removal.

These rules are easy to apply - they are dictated common sense and easy to remember.

1. It is forbidden to push foreign objects through the bars of the cage of the external unit, as well as through the curtains of the internal one. Keep children away from the operating device.
2. Check that maintenance is enabled room temperature 21-26 degrees. More low temperature during the heat is able to bring healthy person before a cold - going outside after many hours of being in the cold represents temperature fluctuations of 10 degrees or more, as during a sharp change in the weather in the off-season.
3. Do not allow the air conditioner to operate with the windows open. Modern technology prevents the compressor from overheating and the useless operation of the fans, if the temperature in the room after switching on has not dropped even by a few tenths of a degree. But not all models are equipped with such a "smart" function - in low-budget models of air conditioners it is simply not there. The device will work completely to no avail, like the old Soviet refrigerator, in which the compressor does not turn off around the clock. As a result, all motors of the air conditioner will fail before the warranty period expires.
4. Shading the window on a bright sunny day is superfluous daylight does not allow the indoor unit to adequately perceive the signal from the infrared LED of the remote control. This or that command is triggered every other time - you need to bring the remote control too close to the air conditioner for it to pass.
5. Do not use an air conditioner, for example, in the bathroom - excess vapor in the indoor unit is converted into excess condensation that contributes to clogging of drainage and filters.
6. Run the air conditioner regularly in a clean fan mode - this will blow out excess condensation.
7. Clean the indoor unit filters every 2 weeks. It is advisable to wash the outdoor unit at least once every 1-2 months.
8. Do not place heating or heating appliances near the indoor unit. The minimum distance is 1 m.
9. Provide the protection you need the air conditioner from sources of interference. The indoor unit should not be in close proximity to devices that use radio signals for data transmission and cellular communication. So, do not install 3G / 4G modems, routers or Wi-Fi repeaters, a home PC system unit, etc., as for the external unit, it is forbidden to place it, for example, near a cell tower and radio relay equipment, if they are next to them on the roof - their signal power is tens of times higher than the radiated power of a smartphone or tablet. Interference from them can reach the processor of the indoor unit and interfere with its operation - especially when the clock frequency of the processor coincides with the side frequencies that are abundant near any antenna.

Greetings to all visitors to the site Air Conditioner! There are situations when you need to know the dimensions of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner. This question arises when the placement of the block is planned in limited space... Sometimes these dimensions play crucial in choise .

It happens that there is not enough space in the allocated space for free arrangement of blocks. Then you have to choose another installation location or, for example, replace two external units with one (this will already be a multi-split system).

On the Internet, for a specific air conditioner model, you will find characteristics, where the overall dimensions of the units are indicated. But if you have not yet decided on a specific model, then you will need to know at least the approximate dimensions. Today we will try to determine the average dimensions of the outdoor unit, focusing on the characteristics household wall split systems .

What determines the dimensions of the outdoor unit

The dimensions of the block body are, of course, determined by the dimensions of the constituent parts. The most large details the external unit is a condenser (radiator) and. Block sizes depend on their performance. The more powerful the air conditioner, the more "possibilities" and dimensions its main units should have.

It's no secret that air conditioners come in different cooling capacities. In most cases, there is a direct relationship between the refrigerating capacity and unit dimensions (especially of one line). But when comparing different brands or models, you may get different numbers!

Of course, the more powerful the air conditioner, the larger its parts, the larger the dimensions of the units. But now there are "splits" with overstated characteristics. To reduce the price, they are assembled from budget components that hardly provide the declared refrigeration capacity. Including for this reason, different brands may differ significantly in dimensions with the same power.

Dimensions of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner

If we consider the performance of the "split" up to 2.7 kW, then the height of the external block will be approximately 42-60 cm. On average, this figure will have a value of about 50 cm. You may need the height of the “foot” of the bracket - usually 7 cm.

Width (without "protruding" cranes) is usually 66-80 cm. Taking into account my experience, I suggest taking the distance in 70 cm. The depth of small air conditioners is usually 23-30 cm.

Thus, we got the approximate dimensions of the external unit:

• height 50 cm .;
• width 70 cm (keep in mind that the service taps "protrude" beyond the body by an additional 6 cm);
• depth 27 cm.

I will supplement these figures with the distance between the external block and the wall of the building - on average 15 cm. Taking into account this indentation, the external block will be located at a distance of 42 cm from the wall (facing) of the house.

For clarity, we present the average dimensions of outdoor units for domestic air conditioners in the form of a table.

Focusing on these figures, do not forget about the variety of climatic technology. If you have limited space for an outdoor unit, then before buying a device, check the dimensions for a specific air conditioner model.

You can ask additional questions in the comments!

Often, during repairs, many people think about installing a split system and plan to design rooms for the size of the air conditioner. The internal block of this device must be placed in such a way that it is not only correctly located, but also looks the most harmonious in the intended interior.

The purchase and selection of the air conditioner itself is often planned closer to the end of the repair, and you need to supply the "power" now. So this article was written for such cases. In it, we will consider in detail what distances must be taken into account for subsequent installation, and we will identify the most universal dimensions of indoor units (wall household appliances).

First, we want to warn you right away that there are “non-standard” models of air conditioners that can have unique dimensions and characteristics. Therefore, this article should not be taken as 100% universal.

Air conditioner size. Internal block of a split system

Often living rooms have a small area (up to 25 sq. m.) For such premises, air conditioners up to 2.7 kW are suitable (not to be confused with power consumption) - they are usually called "Sevens" or "nines"... As a rule, "sevens" and "nines" (of the same model) have the same overall dimensions, as well as the same tube diameter. Therefore, further we will take into account the same dimensions and characteristics of the considered standard sizes.

Overall dimensions of the indoor unit, which we are primarily interested in

• block length. The most standard length of indoor units is 700-800 mm. Slightly less common up to 900 mm. By personal experience it is best to take into account the average length of 770 mm.
• block height. Most often, these dimensions are in the range of 250-290 mm. For planning purposes, we will take into account 270 mm.

The depth is not of much interest to us (170-240 mm). Thus, we have identified the average size of the indoor unit 770 x 270 mm.

Distances from walls and ceilings

1. On / off air conditioners. We output the cable in such a way that it, subsequently, is under the indoor unit ( to the left by 300 mm. and lower by 100 mm. from the center of the block).
2. Most