In old houses, where the floors were made from the tree, the problem of squeaks and the fragility of the coating occurs very often. The board is wear out, rotates and dishes. Replacing the wooden floor to the concrete in the apartment - it looks rational. You can do it, including in the houses of the old building. Concrete floor has excellent strength, service life, it can be displayed with laminate in full compliance technical requirements to this process.

Removal of the old floor

Disassemble the old coating - the first step from which the replacement of the wooden floor begins to the concrete in the apartment. For this, standard tools are used: a sledgehammer, lomik, fomka.

1. Outdoor coatings are removed in the form of linoleum.
2. Using the tool, the coating is disassembled.
3. In the entry zones and other communications should be especially careful.

After removing the old boards, access to the base opens. In apartments reinforced concrete plate Lags are laid, often they are not even fixed. The space between them is falling asleep by the residues of the construction trash for sound insulation.

All must be deleted. For garbage collection, bags and place for their temporary storage are required.

After the construction trash and dirt are removed, the lags are evaluated. If the tree is in good condition, you can create the basis for filling the screed on plywood or chipboard, which will be placed on an existing substrate. But this will cause the level of floor level, so it is worth deciding that it is better: to make a new coating on lags, without insulation or - to remove the lags and form a layer of concrete on the slabs of the overlap.

In practice, most apartment owners operate on the second option. Lags are dismantled. After that, it is necessary to carefully assess the condition of the pipes - cold and hot watersewage. If there is damage or signs of a bad state, the inter-storey sector should immediately replace. Later, after creating a concrete floor, the repair will cause much more problems and time spending.

Evaluation of the list of work

Freed from gender, lag, construction garbage and other mud plate inspecting. Level measurements are made. Laser levels are useful, which determines the height difference and their character.

Several situations may arise:

1. the base is formed by several narrow plates forming a "step";
2. there is a troughness or there is a bulge in the center of the room with a height of the perimeter;
3. there is a uniform tilt of the base in one or the other side.

It is necessary not only to evaluate work on the level of cash investment, but also plan as a smaller mass of the screed. For this concrete layer do minimum thickness, having it on the outer or lightweight solution.

The procedure for evaluating the work of the future gender with a large, from 70 mm of the floor height difference, look like this:

• the thickness of the concrete screed is 40-50 mm;
• the rest of the space can be filled with a solution solution.

More cheap way - Sweep the rough surface of sand, however, the mass of such a pillow will be significant. In practice, it is perfect to make a base of plywood, under which clamzit is poured for level alignment. This method of production of work gives a smooth smooth surface under the screed simultaneously, the rough damp has a small mass and provides some degree of additional sound insulation.

The base under the screed from plywood can be made on lags from a small cross section. This is a convenient and fairly cheap way. Lags are stacked by the floor, providing a horizontal, while in right places For them are small supports. After that, the free space is covered with clay.

When squeezing the base of sand it is necessary to shed water and thoroughly tamper. It is not recommended to use a vibration tool - the neighbors can be damaged by plastering trim or other troubles may be damaged. After completing the work, the sand needs to give a couple of three days to dry.

The difference, wooden or concrete floor is on the interhesive flooring - in the mass of the coating. Although, not only in this. About this video:

A little about very old houses

In houses where there is no reinforced concrete interlated overlap, replace the wooden floor to concrete screed One way can be in one way: to build a rough coating of plywood or chipboard. Some are advised to repair an existing wooden floor or to fit the extra cover.

However, in practice, such work takes out a mass of time, money, requires replacement of destroyed zones, removal old paint. and other coatings to assess the status of boards.

Therefore, they are applied as follows:

• all outdoor coating boards are removed;
• in the houses with overlapping on the beams or metal profile, the construction trash for sound insulation is covered between the floor and the ceiling of the lower floor. All this needs to be removed;
• the condition of the lag is estimated. With a bad - they are removed. With good - lags are cleaned, processed by anti-flap, antibacterial agents and are fixed in such a way as to guarantee the smoothness of plywood or chipboard.

Preparation of the base under the screed begins with the frustration of the ceramisit in the interoard overlap on beams or bodies. This layer will have a small mass and possess good sound insulation. Failure is made to the top level of the lag. After that, fill the Fana or chipboard and act just like in the apartment.

Waterproofing and insulation

After the black base under the screed is ready, proceed to creating a waterproofing layer. To do this, can be applied:

• ruberoid or Pergamine;
• bituminous rolled insulators based on fiberglass or glass chill;
• polymer film;
• one-sided vapor-permeable membrane.

Before the calculation of the rolled waterproofer must be carried out preparatory work. For this, the entire perimeter of the room is sampled by a special construction tape. After being deprived bituminous mastic Cold type of application. Some formulations will require time to dry out, so it is necessary to warn the neighbors in advance about the need to suffer an unpleasant smell.

After soaring the mastic, the perimeter is sampled by a damper construction tape with a thickness of 20 mm and one can arrange a rolled waterproofer. Stripes of material are placed with an overlap at 10-15 cm, each next strip Finds the previous one. On the perimeter of the room, the waterproofer should be on the walls by 10-15 cm.

The processing of seams is made as follows:

• using polymer film The region of the edge of the strip located on the previous one is sampled by a wide scotch;
• ruberoid and other bitumen-containing materials are carefully warmed construction phenomenon At the joint zone and rolled it with a roller for gluing.

The use of the materials of the flood class in the apartment is not recommended. They require processing kerosene burner, which in conditions limited space And ventilation can become a problem.

Accelerate the work will allow rolled waterproofers on self-adhesive basis. They cost more, but will greatly speed up the flooring.

After the waterproofer is laid, the insulation is located on it. This stage of work is performed if the heating system will be constructed a warm floor. In other cases, it is not necessary to apply thermal insulation.

Laying reinforcement

• classic, laying on the floor with a gap to the insulation or waterproofer in 10 mm steel grid with the size of cells of 5 cm;
• using plastic reinforcing grids;
• adding special fibers into the solution.

Inside the screed can be placed and a challenge grid of aluminum. But the method with the use of fibers is leading on convenience and rationality. This will allow:

• do not take care of the presence of a compensation gap to a waterproofer or insulation;
• put inside the screed system Heating Warm floor;
• work at high speed.

Fibers for reinforcement screed are available at a price, with their use you can ensure the uniform strength of the concrete layer. But during the construction of the floor is not over the reinforced concrete slab, it is recommended to act as a classic method using the reinforcing grid.

Installation of Mayakov

Lighthouses on the floor along the prepared surface are installed simply: Special profiles or corners for designing angles when plastering are placed on small hills from gypsum spacure. The flattering surfaces formed by the upper surface points are checked with a long construction level.

If the base is well prepared and there is a difference between the levels in the hotel area areas - the height of the holmiks from putty varies. Placing beacons is necessary at a distance of 40-50 cm, directing them along the line from the window to the door. Details can not be moved to the complete pouring of putty and reliable fixation of beacons.

Preparation of solution

If you want to replace the wooden floor to a concrete screed and, at the same time, worry about pressure on the overlap, you can use ready-made building mixtures. For example, for example, for example, 440, 441, MZ150, allowing you to create a layer of up to 70 mm with a minimum indicator of 35 mm. It does not need to mix dry mixture - the composition is immediately ready for the addition of water.

Standard approach is to apply a classic cement-sand tie. To make it takes:

• 1 part of the M400 brand cement;
• 3 parts of the sand of the construction sifted;
• 0.1 parts of a lime test acting as a plasticizer;
• fibers for reinforcement in the amount recommended by the manufacturer.

Before stirring with water, the dry mixture should be mixed thoroughly before the formation of a uniformly colored composition. After that, they begin to add liquid, continuing to interfere before obtaining the consistency of thick sour cream.

Recommendation: For quick and high-quality work, a large amount of dry mixture should be prepared in advance. As needed, you can quickly breed it with water. If you measure the equal parts of the composition, it is easy to navigate in the amount of the necessary fluid and prepare the solution extremely quickly.

Laying tie.

The screed is styled from the window or long wall to the door. The solution is laid out by large portions and recalls with a long rule of lighthouses. There are no difficulties when working, it is necessary to simply act quickly so that the solution is not captured and easily smoothed. It is recommended to lay the screed together. One is engaged in the preparation of the solution, the second - its application.

Creating an finishing coating

In the apartment I want to achieve maximum strength and at the same time. To do this, you can act in several ways:

• grind the floor with a skirt;
• apply special polymer compositions or paint paint for concrete;
• elongate the surface of the screed after 3-4 days when partial froze will occur;
• form a thin layer of bulk sex.

If you plan to lay a tile on the floor - you can do without additional surface testing. For coating from laminate or linoleum, it is recommended to spend. The most expensive version of the bulk sex allows not only to get a smooth and smooth surface, but also to create an effective final coating. For example, a popular 3D floor or with graphic images.

The question of creating the final coating is worth thinking about in advance. The bulk floor will raise the overall level of about 30 mm, a similar situation - with ceramic tiles. However, the final design can be considered as a secondary measure. As for the most concrete floor, subject to the above rules and methods, it is possible to create a very durable, durable coating for the acceptable costs of money and time in 2-3 weeks.

Wooden floor due to its ecology and durability is quite popular. However, after some time, still has to replace the old floor to a new one. On how to remove the old floor, it will be discussed further.

Options

Depending on the state of the old floor and the plans for the new coating device, the dismantling can be carried out. different ways:

• If the goal of reuse of the old material is not persecuted, then it makes no sense to take care of the board served. This decision is made due to the unsuitability of the coating, which will be removed due to the use of glue or nails big size For fastening boards. In this case, the work is carried out quickly. With the help of nail or other tools without excessive caution, the old floor is removed, the elements of which are subjected to disposal.
• The second option provides for the reuse of the material. In this case, a partial replacement of the floor coating can be carried out, or the boards will step in another room. With this position, it is necessary to work carefully and carefully.

Dismantle process

At the initial stage of repair, the old coating must be dismantled. When removing the sexual coating with the intention of reuse from the room, you need to make all the furniture, remove all the designs that are arranged on the floor and wipe the damp cloth all working surfaceTo reduce the amount of dust raised when dismantling.

• Before removing old wooden floors, you first need to numbered all the boards with a pencil. It is necessary so that when repeatedly laying all the elements are placed in the same order, Idefully combined with each other.
• Then the plinth is dismantled throughout the contour of the room.
• The nail-holder when pulling the nails from the genital boards can damage in a certain place the coating material. To avoid this, while working under the tool you need to put plywood fragments or pieces of boards. When fastening the sexual material, large lining nails can be replaced by large-size bars.
• In order not to harm the plinth, its removal should be started from the end - near the point of fixation.
• The first fastener is usually located at a distance of approximately 15 cm from the corner of the wall.
• If the plinth is naked to the floor, at the point of fixing it should be lifted to a distance of up to 3 cm, after which it is necessary to go to another place of fastening.
• When it fails to hook a hat and pull the nail directly, you need a chisel to rush a little tree in the attachment area. After that, under the nail-cutter, it is necessary to slip the block of the desired thickness and the tool to remove the nail.
• If the plinth was attached with screws, the nail is replaced by a screwdriver or a screwdriver.
• If the plinth is fixed not to the floor, but to the wall, the principle of dismounting technology does not change - the place of support does not play a fundamental role.
• At the beginning of the floor dismantling, a board is chosen, which is located at the greatest distance from entrance door. IN alternative version Dismantling begins with an extreme board having a relatively small width.
• The edge of the board, which is joined by the wall, is approaching a nail and rises up 3 cm.
• The board fell into the old place with a hammer, while the nail remains hanging around. Near the nail there is a plywood fragment or a small thickness board.
• The nail, leaning on the substrate, starts behind the hat, after which the nail is pulled out.
• Operation to remove the nail is repeated in other places of fastening.
• The board freed from the nails should be disconnected from nearby and remove.

If the first board has entered the wall tightly, and there is no possibility to adapt the nail-cutter, in one of the surfaces it is necessary to do a groove through which you can continue to work. The groove should be in such a place and be such a size so that in the future he can easily hide under the plinth. Such a problem can be solved in another way. In the place of fixation under the hat, wood and a nail is cut into a nail. To dismantle subsequent boards, the same method is used.

Features of the removal of the board

It is necessary to know that the boards are attached to the basis not only by nails and screws, but also on the principle of spike-groove. These elements of the boards are quite vulnerable when performing dismantling work, so when removing the floor, its elements need to be raised to a small height. No matter how carefully disassembled the floor, avoid damage to spikes and the groove is quite difficult. If this happened, then when re-laying, these vulnerable places can be made by PVA glue or small nails - it will avoid the screenshot of the flooring.

Note! The pits that appeared on the boards from the chisel dance can be seen in the future with acrylic sealant.

Video

This is how the parquet board is dismantled:

One of of most important conditions Successful holding repair workIn particular, the replacement of the floor covering is the preparation of surfaces. Whatever the finish coating, it is necessary to understand that it is necessary to lay it for the most evenly possible and durable surface. Installation of a new coating on top of old unacceptable, as it will reduce its strength, aesthetic and other performance featuresSo you need to know how to remove the old floor, and not only know, but also do it right.

A person's professional on this issue, dismantling of any old flooring is unlikely to cause difficulties, but those who are first faced with the need for the work of this type, it is worth familiar with some rules.

Rules for carrying out work

Work on the dismantling of the old flooring will be somewhat different depending on the type of coverage itself. Therefore, the description of these works for a better understanding of the issue is better divided into several separate paragraphs.

First of all, it should be understood that the work concerning the dismantling of indoor coatings will lead to the formation of dust and pollution, so before their start, you need to prepare the means of individual protection. We need safety glasses or mask, gloves, respirator, as well as bags for garbage and dust. In addition, it will not do without an auxiliary tool like a rubber-nail, perforator, screwdriver and hammer. Then you need to remove the furniture from the room. After the preparation is completed, you can proceed to the work itself.

If the flooring was used as an outdoor coating rolled materials, such as linoleum, carpet and them are similar, then work should be started with the removal of plinths. This constructive element It is necessary to remove all over the perimeter of the room. It should be noted that it often happens that the nails that the plinth are attached, rust and their dismantling becomes possible only with the full destruction of the plinth itself. In this case, the remaining nails need to cut off with a chisel. After removing the plinth, the coating simply breaks away from the surface, while you need to know what to start best with the corner of the room.

In the case when parquet or laminate is used as an outdoor coating, the dismantling of the floor should be made depending on which type of installation was selected. If the coating was set by a floating method, then first, as in the previous case, the plinth is removed, and then the coating disassembles separate elements. In addition, if there is a lock connection, these elements can be used again.

If the coating is fixed with adhesive way, then things are somewhat more complicated. In this case, after removing the plinth, it is necessary using a perforator to beat each element separately. To do this, install on the perforator special nozzle. If there is no perforator, you can perform a job using a fombus, uplooking the element below and pulling it off.

If the room was installed on the wooden floor on the lags, then such a coating is easy enough. If the boards were attached to lags by self-drawing, they need to just unscrew, and the boards are easily removed. If nails were used, then the boards in the location of the fastener are approaching the fombus and come off. If you do not need to save the boards, you can proceed easier. With the help of an electroll bissing board, saw across and just tear off. Lags are also dismantled depending on the fastener method. If attached by anchor bolts, they are twisted. And it is possible to simply repel the lag from the base with the help of a sledgehammer.

When it comes to dismantling the tiled floor, for example, tile, then you should know that the work will have dusty and fairly labor. The tile is removed using a perforator with a nozzle or hammer and chisel. It is important to note that the main complexity, with this type of work, it represents the removal of glue residues and the leveling of the base. For these purposes, you can use the same perforator.

It may happen that under the finish coating can be placed leveling base from plywood. The sheets of this material should also be deleted, since the new coating walls over the old base, after a while it can begin to creak. If the plywood is screwed by self-drawn, they need to be simply unscrewed, and if the plywood to the screed is glued, it is removed using a perforator. At the same time you need to remember that it is necessary to have it under sharp angle To the surface.

Work on the dismantling of the old floor covering is not too complex from the technological side, and it does not matter whether it is about to remove wooden floors or disassemble the floor from tile tile. Only some knowledge and diligence will be required. But it is important to comply with the safety regulations.

From the author: Welcome to our readers! Today we will talk about how to make a dismantling of a wooden floor with your own hands, spending quite a bit of time and effort. Well, if you manage to attract at least one assistant to the process, then work will go faster.

Outdoor wood coatings are considered to be the safest, environmentally friendly and durable. For proper montage And careful care they serve for more than 50 years. But time does its job, and the moment comes when nothing remains, except for how ruthlessly remove the old floor.

Sometimes a partial replacement of boards is required, but most often the floor covering must be completely removed. In some cases, after removing the floorboards from the floor under them, it is possible to detect a mass of the shortcomings left by the first builders of the entire building.

To the dissent of the floor lead:

• increased humidity indoors;
• insect pest activities, impact fungi;
• significant mechanical damage;
• low quality material;
• wear due to long time operation.

What should I consider before starting work? All items of the upcoming event must be well thought out, you can even record on paper, as this will allow us to evaluate the approximate volume, the cost and time spent on the implementation of all its stages.

The result of calculations can affect the most different factors (room area, view wood coating, Availability concrete base under it, the need to use special equipment), Therefore, they are individual for each case.

We plan workflow

It is important to remember that the removal of the old floor covering is noisy, this moment should be taken into account and plan the time of work in such a way as to deliver the minimum of concern to family members and neighbors.

In advance, you need to prepare a place to collect future construction garbage, container under it and transportation for transportation. To protect yourself from large number Dust, which is inevitable when carrying out this kind of work, we recommend to dress up working overalls, respirator, construction gloves and a headdress.

The next step will be the preparation of the necessary boards in the apartment and the house of the tools:

• sledgeVolds or mounting hammer;
• nail-made;
• electrolovka or saws for cutting long boards;
• screwdrivers, ticks and pliers;
• chisels;
• topor or scrap.

This is a minimum set of tools that can vary depending on the type of wood flooring.

Important! Immediately before, removing, you can drill the door opening with a large piece of wet fabric, and near the threshold put moistened with water mats. Such a technique will help prevent the spread of dust on other premises.

Stages of performance

So, all preparatory activities Complied with time to start action. The procedure for carrying out work to remove old sex boards in the apartment and the house is the following:

1. Removing plinths. It is recommended to carry out it with a nail-made, starting from the corner of the room. In case the old plinth is covered with several layers of paint, you must first determine the place in which it is easily lifted by a flat screwdriver, and then apply a nail. If its stroke is not enough to extract long nails, under it put wooden barber. It is easier when screws were used for attaching a plinth, because they are quite simple to unscrew the screwdriver.
2. The next step will be the removal of the entire floor surface. Usually it is placed from the board facing a spike to the wall, so the dismantling begins in the opposite direction. If the floorboards are scheduled to be reused in the same room, they first number them in order to subsequently put in the desired order. When the floor covering is fixed with screws, the work will be consistent with the filtering and sequential removal of each board. In the case, if the floorboards are fixed with nails, such a sequence of actions is observed:
   • the side of the floor is determined, where the last floorboard is fixed;
   • under the board with the help of a hammer is clogged with a nail-holder;
   • the flooring is raised at a distance of 1-3 centimeters from lags;
   • then the board needs to be tightly pressing to the base of the floor, while the nail heats will have to be written above the surface. If necessary, the Hall raise-omit several times;
   • under the nail liner is placed, after which the nails are neatly retrieved. Thus, the floorboards will remain intact, they can be used for the flooring of a new floor or for other construction work;
   • after that, with the help of the chisels, the gaps are increased between the boards. If the previous steps are performed correctly, the spike, freed from the nails of the flooring, easily will come out of the groove of the arc, which is still fixed;
   • if the spike board or groove is accidentally damaged, this trouble can be eliminated using glue or small nails. The floorboard will look a little worse, but its functionality will be restored;
   • to remove the lag also use a nail-holder.

Important! Even if you do not plan to reuse the shot boards, work must be taken carefully, so as not to damage the floor base itself and avoid difficulties when installing a new floor covering. If you need to utilize the flooring, it is better to cut them into small pieces, which will be conveniently folded into the container, take out of the room and transport. Do not be roughly breaking the boards, because sharp fragments can be very injured, besides, the room is much more complicated from them.

If you carefully read this material, now clearly understand the procedure for performing work on dismantling and know the features of this process.

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The replacement of floors in the apartment occurs for various reasons, typical examples - it's time to establish heat and sound insulation, it was decided to "warm the field", began to grab the boards strongly, the coating deformation occurred or the humidity coming from the basement has increased, it simply wanted something more new and modern.

In any case will have to do great jobwhich consists of several stages. Much in the process of replacing the coating will depend on the material from which old floors are made, as well as what new coatings are planned. In addition, thought out additional functions Floors that will help protect the apartment from dampness and increase its warmth - and noise insulation.

In order for the complexity of the upcoming work, it is not surprising, you need to familiarize yourself in advance with all the stages of floors.

The process of dismantling the old floor cover is one of the most unpleasant moments. But no matter how "scared", without this, it is not necessary to do without this classes, and therefore you need to safely take care.

Wooden floor

If the apartment is laid wooden floor, then big problems And there will be no difficulties with his dismantling. To work you need to prepare required tools , such as an ax, a hammer with a nail-holder, a screwdriver, a mount, an electric bike or electric saw for cutting old boards (if, of course, they are not planned to be used again), shovel and garbage bags.

• The first plunths are filmed throughout the perimeter of the room, and only then you can move to the boarding coating.
• If the boards are reinforced or, they are intended to use them as lags, then they need to be taken carefully, trying to cause them minimal damage. Therefore, a nail-holder must be tried gently pull out all the clogged nails. It is easier to solve this issue will be if the boards are enshrined - they are most often removed from the screwdriver.
• If the shot boards are not needed for further workThey are recommended to immediately take out the apartment. It is unlikely worth collecting large heap garbage - she will soon be very prevented by further actions. It should also be done with the rest of the elements that will not be useful for installation work.
• Freeing the space, you can proceed to the dismantling of the lag. It should be remembered that they can be fairly securely fixed to the floor, and they need to take it very carefully, trying not to damage the basis. IN otherwise You can add absolutely unnecessary work on the sealing holes formed.
• Freeing the room from the old coating, you need to spend thorough cleaning, how much allows it to make the basis.

Having finished this procedure, you can proceed to the preparation of the floor for installation work.

Video - full dismantling of old wooden floor

Concrete coating

Dismantling of old concrete coating It is produced in extreme cases, since it is perfectly repaired.

Cardinal measures are being taken if the old cement coating is not preserved, for example, it is constantly exposed to moisture without periodic drying. In this case, fungus and mold could appear in the layers of concrete, which may cause various human health pathologies - is allergic, asthma, rhinitis, lung disease, etc. Therefore, such a coating is simply necessary.

Another reason for dismantling can be low ceilings in the apartment. If installing a floor with insulation is planned, which means it is to raise it to a certain height, the coating is removed in order to release the place for the heat and sound insulation design.

If still decided to get rid of old screed, you need to know that it is laid on the capital concrete inter-storey overlap And you need to take it carefully.

To remove the screed layer, the perforator is used, which rolls out its individual pieces. As a rule, this leveling plate layer ranges from 50 to 120 mm.

After removing the old screed, (and better, even periodically during the removal process), it is also necessary to carry out measures for cleaning. But in this variant perfect cleaning It turns out hardly, so it is carried out so thoroughly as possible.

Preparatory work

In order for the new floor to be laid high quality, it is necessary to lead to the proper condition of the result purified from the old floor.

• From the surface, with the maximum Careful, dust is removed. This is done to detect serious flaws at the base, such as cracks, holes and cracks, portions of detachment or coloring, places where concrete is soaked with any formulations, go where the traces of reference and the appearance of mold are visible.
• If such are found, they must be very good to close, otherwise they will reduce the entire effect of thermo and sound insulation. Make it possible with cement mortar, mounting foam or sealant. The choice of repair materials needs to be done, based on the size of the damage of the base. In the case of fungus or mold, the base is required to be "subject to" with special aseptic impregnating compositions.
• When the base is dry, they produce further actions on reproducing, but they will depend on what type of new flooring will be arranged instead of the old. Therefore, these processes should perhaps consider in the complex with the installation of each of the types of floors separately.

But it should be noted that even if instead of the removed old screed, it is planned to install a wooden floor, the surface will still have to align with a subtle new concrete coating.

New tie

A new screed can be arranged differently. If the basis is more or less smooth, and the wooden coating will be laid on top of it, it is possible to bring it in perfect order using a bulk sex.

• The bulk coating is able to close the small differences or flaws of the base. For this is purchased ready dry construction mixture For self-leveling sex.
• The technology of making a solution can be read on the package, and it is necessary to perform it very clearly.
• The finished solution is spilled along the surface and are distributed using a rally or a wide spatula, and then, for the guaranteed exit of the remaining air bubbles, rolled the needle roller.
• The aligned floor is left for drying and a durability. All formulations have their own time maturation, depending on the ingredients, of which the dry building mixture was cooked.

Spread thin insulation and lay decorative coating;

Arrange plywood coating with styling of infrared warm floor;

Be on installed lags wooden floor.

Screed with warming insulation

Another type of screed is stacked on the clamzite, which is good insulation and soundproofing. In addition, the material is quite lightweight, therefore it is not particularly weighting of the inter-storey overlap, which is very important to take into account, making the screed in the apartment. The process of laying this screed occurs as follows.

• If the screed is arranged on the first floor, which is located above the cold basement, then we must first make waterproofing. Its installation is made in different ways: plaster, cast, inlet, painting, etc. It is applied not only on the floors, but also on the bottom of the walls, to the pre-primed surface.
• On prepared waterproof The surface is spread dense polyethylene film which should go on the walls by 15-20 cm. The sheets of the film glued together with the help of special tape.
• On top of the film, throughout the perimeter of the room, is attached to the glue damper tape, which will help save the screed when the temperature drops.
• Over pLenca set lighthouses that are leveling in terms of level. They are most often fixed on concrete solution. The height of the beacons must be equal to the height of the fastening layer of the clay plus the planned thickness of the screed.
• Next, the clamzite is saturated with a layer slightly below the installed beacons and carefully smoking.
• After that, a concrete solution is poured over the ceramisit, which is equal to the top of the beacons.
• After drying the screed, it is most likely somewhat messenger, and it can be finally arranged by a thin layer of self-splashing gender.
• From above this design, any decorative coating can be stacked.

Screed without insulation

The usual tie of concrete solution is made to strengthen the floor under the flooring of a wooden coating, or on the floors apartment housewhere there is no great need for insulation.

• Waterproofing polyethylene film spreads on the prepared basis.
• Dampfer tape passes around the perimeter of the walls.

• From above laid down waterproofing film Stay reinforcement grid (metal or fiberglass), and then set beacons, which, as usual, are aligned in the horizontal plane by level.

• A concrete solution is poured by 1.5- 2 cm above the beacons, ranging from the far wall of the room, and then sprinkled with the rule that is kept strictly guides-Locks.
• It is so poured and the entire surface of the room is aligned, the screed is left for frozen and maturation (up to 3-4 weeks).

After the screed is ready, you can start the installation of the lag, the insulation and the boarding up.

Dry screed

Another type of flooring is in order is a dry screed, which is perfect for its device in the apartment. It is good because it does not need to knead the solution and breed in the apartment "Boloto". The floors from the dry screed are made as follows:

• On the surface of the floors, a dense film from polyethylene is laid, it should also find on the wall, height The future floor with a reserve of 5- 10 cm. The doorway is installed in the doorway, which will limit the sprinkling of the mixture outward. The flooring should be very tightly fitted to the surface of the base.
• Then the beams are placed on the film metal profile or even wooden Bruschev. But in this embodiment, their screeds are not fixed to the base, since after aligning the surface, the guides from the covered layer will need to be removed.
• Beacons are aligned by building level to the perfect horizontal plane.

• The next step - the filler for dry floor is poured onto the film. Its layer must have a height of several centimeters more than the level of installed beacons.
• Dry filler is recompulied by the lighthouses by the rule.
• The final stage is the laying of special hypusoloconne Plates that have special docking castle pairing. It is applied with glue, and then the next panel is stacked, so that the castle parts are exactly accurate. Advanced plates in these places with self-draws are fastened.

The fully finished floor is drawn up with a decorative coating - you can choose it in your own taste.

Wooden floor

Wood floor, made of headboards or plywood, mounted on the prepared screed. It can be on lags or laid directly on a concrete base.

The most popular of these two options is still the first, as it has several advantages. For example, between lags you can lay insulation and noise insulation. In addition, the floor surface is raised over concrete, which also adds the insulation effect. Another plus - the lags add stiffness to the coating, and it becomes more reliable.

The floors on the bars or lags are arranged in several stages:

• Before fixing the lags, the room markup is marked. The lines are fought off the stretched twine, painted, for example, blue. The distance between the lags should be equal to the width insulating material (can, in case of use of minvati, reduce by 30 - 50 mm, so it will be even better).
• Then the lags of the desired length are cut. It should be remembered that they should be located at a distance from the wall at least than in the thickness of the insulation. Usually for insulation use mineral Wat - When changing poor-quality polystyrene foam in residential indoors, the atmosphere will not be so environmentally friendly.
• The next step is the installation of lag to the base. They can be fixed directly to concrete basisAnd it is possible to lift on some height with the help of special studs or metal holders.
• The distance between the racks of the lag attached to the floor should be within 40-50 centimeters. Regulating the height of racks The level of the future floor is output into one horizontal plane.
• After completing this work, the insulation is stacked. At first it is necessary to do between the lags and the wall, throughout the perimeter of the room, then it is already fitted between the bars-lag.

• The next step is to cover the entire resulting design film of vaporizolation - it should be fixed to the lags by the stapler.
• The most important process is the flooring board. It is important that the starting floorboards are in 5-7 mm from the wall - for ventilation and compensation of possible linear extensions from thermal drops or enhance humidity in the room.

Video - Installation of floorboard

• On the top of a fully shredded board, plinth is fixed around the perimeter. Important - Plinth is attached to the wall, but not to the sexual boards.
• If Plywood is stacked on the lags, then you need to provide for two sheets in such a way that it takes place in the middle of Bruska-lag, so it is important to calculate right size plywood cloth. For surface stiffness sheets are attached by system brick masonry, with a shift of the subsequent half of the sheet.
• When the material is fully laid, it is necessary to close all the cracks between the sheets of putty, and after drying it, it is desirable to bother the surface.
• On top of plywood, any decorative coating is stacked, and then the installed plinth will be pressed.

In addition to those specified in the article simple floors, which can be made instead of dismantled, recently became popular warm - water or electric. The device of such systems is considered in certain publications of the site.

View all possible options outdoor coatings And choose the right one in publication.

Having calculated everything correctly and not in a hurry, it is quite possible to make dismantling and installation of coatings yourself - this will help save a considerable amount, since such work on updating floors in the apartment is very expensive.