To make and assemble the doors for the wardrobe on your own, you will need an action plan that will help you do everything necessary calculations and pick up accessories.

Components and materials

When making doors for a wardrobe, you will need the following components:

• top and bottom guides;
• vertical frames (handles);
• horizontal beams;
• fittings for assembly;
• material for the door leaf.

Guides, frames and fittings can be purchased at a store that specializes in furniture making accessories.

The material for the door of the wardrobe compartment is most often chosen by glass, mirror or chipboard. On glass you can stick a matte film and pattern. Mirrors are covered with a special film on the back, which will prevent fragments from scattering if the mirror is broken.

It is easier to assemble a wardrobe with your own hands if you know the sequence of actions.

1. Calculating the size of the doors;
2. Purchase of materials;
3. Frame assembly;
4. Calculation of the size of the material for the canvas;
5. Door assembly;
6. Installation;
7. Cabinet adjustment.

Calculating door sizes

Before you go to the store for accessories, you need to calculate the material that will be needed to assemble the cabinet with your own hands.

The first thing to determine is the size sliding doors... To do this, we measure the width of the cabinet without taking into account the vertical side walls against which the shutters will abut. Suppose, after measurement, the value is equal to 1550 millimeters. The canvases should overlap each other by at least the width of the handle, which is 25 millimeters. It is better if this figure is larger, optimally 50 millimeters. Then we get that the width of 1 sash will be equal to (1550 + 50) / 2 = 800 millimeters.

The height of the canvas is determined taking into account the lining for the guides and the gap between them and the door. The pads will be at the top and bottom and will be 16 millimeters each. The size of the gap is 15 millimeters. If the height of the cabinet is 2400 millimeters, then we get 2400-16-16-15-15 = 2338 millimeters.

Knowing these numbers, you can start buying accessories for the wardrobe.

Assembling the frame with your own hands

The handle profile, which is a vertical frame rack, is sold in a length of 2700 millimeters. For two doors, you will need 4 pieces of such a profile. Bottom and top rails are sold per meter. To assemble a wardrobe, you need two meters of the lower and two meters of the upper profile.

Assembly fittings are sold as a kit, which includes:

• two rollers that are inserted into the lower profile;
• two mounting bolts for rollers;
• four screws for assembling the frame;
• two supports that are inserted into the top profile.

One such kit is designed to assemble one door. If you plan to make two of them, then respectively purchase two sets.

Do-it-yourself assembly begins with marking and cutting off the desired length of the handle profile. They are protected with plastic wrap, which should not be removed until the doors are installed in place. This will protect the handles from scratches. Their length is equal to the height of the door leaf - 2338 millimeters for our example.

The length of the horizontal profile of the frame-frame will help to calculate the following diagram. We subtract 25 millimeters from the width of the canvas 800 millimeters for each of the two vertical posts - this is exactly the depth of the handle profile. For the reliability of the connection, a groove is provided in them with a depth of 1 millimeter, into which horizontal strips are inserted when assembling the wardrobe. Thus, 800-25-25 + 1 + 1 = 752 millimeters is the length of the horizontal frame elements.

The next step is to drill holes for the mounting bolts in the frame handles with your own hands. To do this, we measure the exact distance from the end of the horizontal lower profile to the middle of the fastening groove. We transfer the value to the vertical strips and drill holes 5 millimeters in diameter. We carry out the same operation with the upper profile. The holes need to be drilled through two strips: an outer and an inner one. The outer one will need to be made wider by reaming it up to 8 millimeters. When assembling the cabinet, the self-tapping screw head will pass through it inward, the fastening will be carried out to the inner bar.

In the same way, holes for the rollers are measured and made at the bottom of the handles. As a result, one vertical profile will have three holes: two for the mounting bolts and one for the wheels.

The frame must be assembled by aligning the holes and tightening the fastening bolts. A support is inserted at the top before final tightening, after which the bolt is securely tightened.

Sliding doors in a wardrobe can be made by combining materials, for example, the bottom of the sash will be made of chipboard, and the top will be made of glass. Then another profile will be located between them.

Sizes of canvases

The width and height of the material from which the door will be made is calculated based on their distance between the right and left handles, the upper and lower frame, respectively. In order for the canvas to fit into the frame without problems, we leave a gap of 1 millimeter on each side. For glass and mirrors, you must also take into account the thickness of the seal, which is also equal to 1 millimeter.

In order to assemble the door to the closet with our own hands, we untwist the frame and insert the canvas into the profile. For a glass or mirror sash, glue a seal on its end around the entire perimeter. We assemble the structure by screwing in self-tapping screws.

We perform all the described actions for the second door of the cabinet.

Installation and adjustment

After you have finished assembling the system with your own hands, the doors need to be reinstalled. This can be done by first inserting the canvas into the upper guide, and then into the lower one. The first door is placed in the closet, which will be located deeper. After installation, the system is adjusted. To do this, screw in or unscrew the bolt securing the lower rollers using a hex wrench.

When deciding to assemble a wardrobe with your own hands, you will save at least 50 percent of its cost. Finished construction will serve for a long time, and please you with its reliability.

Do not hesitate, you will perfectly cope with this task. The most important thing is to correctly make all the calculations of the parameters of the future cabinet, the instructions on how to make the cabinet yourself will help you in this. And, of course, where, without diligence and patience, tune in to a positive result - and you will succeed.

Step-by-step instruction

First, decide how you want to see your new wardrobe... If you have good artistic skills, try to create an image on paper, even better if it is a drawing of future furniture. To make it easier for you, you can use the example indicated in this article. Here the instructions on how to make the cabinet yourself will be described in detail. The design of the furniture will be such that to create it, you will need a wall niche in your apartment. This option of furniture is very relevant, since the built-in wardrobe is spacious and does not take up extra space in the apartment.

Figure 1. Marking of the vertical plane of the front part of the cabinet.

The material for the future cabinet should be selected in accordance with the length and depth of your niche, and the height of the ceiling is also taken into account. For this example, a laminated particle board is most suitable. In an abridged version, this construction material known as laminated chipboard. In order to build a cabinet, you need a material that is approximately 16 mm thick. Construction market offers laminated chipboard different sizes, in this case, the most suitable 600 x 2440. Material of this size is convenient for the manufacture of all elements of the future cabinet.

What does a built-in wardrobe consist of? First of all, these are doors that represent the facade of the furniture, then - a pair of load-bearing racks, shelves and basement elements. In this example, the simplest version of the assembly of a cabinet with a solid facade will be described.

In order to make the cabinet yourself, you will need to go through the following stages of work: evaluate a niche, mark the plane of the facade of the future cabinet, mount vertical racks, make and install a roof, shelves, cornices, plinths and doors.

In addition, you will need to prepare the following tools:

• electric planer;
• level;
• screwdriwer set;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• drill;
• grinder or sandpaper for grinding;
• self-tapping screws;
• glue;
• laminated chipboard sheets.

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Niche and its dimensions

In the example shown in this article, the niche would be 3000 x 600 x 2650 mm. The length is 3 m, the depth is 0.6 m, the ceiling height is 2.65 m. The size of the niche depth was not chosen by chance, when assembling the cabinet, do not forget that the hanger for your clothes should fit freely into it.

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Cabinet front plane

Highly important stage cabinet assembly - marking the vertical plane of the facade, look carefully at fig. 1. The fact is that the installation of all bearing racks in a vertical position is carried out on the basis of this marking.

When dimensioning the front plane, keep in mind that when installing vertical posts, there should be no gaps along the walls.

Figure 2. Marking of the most distant point (in the upper right corner).

To avoid this, select the slab that is the most suitable size. In this example, a slab 60 cm wide is shown. In this regard, it is necessary to mark the farthest point on the intended plane. In order for you to understand correctly how to proceed, pay attention to the following fig. 2.

In the example shown, the same point is marked on the right side. top corner... To all the remaining points, the uprights of the vertical position are sawn and reduced in width. In order for the vertical racks to be conveniently mounted, you should draw a projection of the plane of the future cabinet in the form of a straight line. To do this, you can use a pencil or chalk. The niche shown in this example is 3 m long. It is very important that the floor in the room is as flat as possible (in order to make sure of this, you should use the level). The next step is to install the racks.

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Vertical racks and their installation

The installation of the uprights starts from the lowest point on your floor. Use the level to find it. In the case of an imperfectly flat floor and with the lowest point, for example, located on the left side, the installation of the racks must be started from this place. The cabinet shown in this example will have a separate roof from the ceiling, since the length of the base plate is 2440 mm.

Markings should be applied to the floor along which you have to establish verticals. To simplify the task, use the one shown in fig. 3 by drawing.

Here you can choose one of two ways:

• calculate the step of the racks, while taking into account the width of each door of your future cabinet;
• equal distances between the posts in this case should be set "by eye". Then the doors are sawn to the same width. In the example given in this text, the cabinet will not have exactly equal spacing between the uprights.

Figure 3. Installation diagram of vertical racks.

The fact is that you have to install the doors using hinges, and they will make it possible to completely cover the edges of the posts with the door. When installing doors on intermediate posts, you will need to use other hinges that will cover only a third of the vertical post. Thus, the distance between the second and third posts you will get 8 mm more (an example is shown in the previous figure).

According to the example of cabinet assembly given in the text, the next step is to install the vertical post from the left edge. The vertical should be placed on the floor; using the leveling method, exclude its protrusion beyond the facade plane. To do this, you should arm yourself with an electric plane and a level. The stand must be aligned on both sides. Next, draw a line on the wall that should correspond to the size of the end of the rack, and then remove the vertical rack for a while. A horizontal line is drawn along the entire length of the niche from the previously drawn line using a level. Thus, you need to fit each individual cabinet post, focusing on the original height.

The next stage of work will be the installation of ready-made racks. To do this, you need corners (it is better to use chrome plated ones). For any vertical post, at least 5 elements must be used. With a couple of corners, the vertical is screwed to the floor, the rest will be needed for fastening to the wall. For correct placement corners, mark the location of the future cabinet shelves. The corners should be screwed to the panels using self-tapping screws 3.5 x 16. Installation to the wall is carried out with self-tapping screws 3.5 x 16, plastic dowels 6 x 35.

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Cabinet roof fabrication and installation

In the example of this text, the upper part of the structure will be made of two elements. The roof has dimensions of 800 x 2958 mm, and additional element will be 200 x 2958 mm in size. Thus, the thickness of the visor will increase. The roof structure of the cabinet shown in fig. 4, as you can see, has an arched visor. Its radius is 12.7 m.

Figure 4. Cabinet roof structure.

In order to cut the arc, you need a jigsaw, all uneven areas of the surface should be carefully sanded. The roof of the cabinet is almost finished, then it should be used as a template in order to make a cover. With the help of PVC edges, the edges of the main element and the additional overlay are glued.

The radial edges of the parts should also be glued. To do this, you need a PVC edgeband and glue (you can use liquid nails glue). The glue should be applied in a strip of about 1 m. The next step is to glue the edge to the end of the panel. In this way, stick on the rest. Using a piece of cotton fabric, the edge is neatly smoothed over the slab. Then, using self-tapping screws 3.5 x 35, you need to pull off the cabinet roof and the additional panel.

After you have completely prepared the roof for installation, proceed with installing it to the uprights. To attach the roof to each pillar, you need two corners. In this case, the distance between the edge of the corner and the front edge should not be less than 16 mm.

Sliding wardrobes can be produced from different materials however, not all of them will be equally in demand among consumers. Buyers are mainly looking for furniture that is practical, safe and affordable for their offices and homes. That is why most often budgetary and easy-to-use laminated chipboard and MDF are used for its production. Let's consider the features of each of them.

Chipboard

This material is a laminated particle board. Simply put, it is a sanded chipboard that has decorative film made of paper and melamine resin.

The material has such advantages as:

MDF

Advantages of MDF:

• strength;
• durability;
• ease of processing;
• excellent decorative properties;
• pleasant to the touch surface;
• environmental friendliness.

How to make a choice?

Buyers are often afraid to buy sliding-door wardrobes from chipboard, believing that they contain substances hazardous to health. However, today you can buy safe furniture made from this material, the main thing is to make sure that the seller has a certificate of product compliance with sanitary and hygienic standards. Thus, from the point of view of environmental friendliness, chipboard today is not much different from MDF.

From the point of view of aesthetics, furniture made of MDF is considered more presentable. Today you can buy a custom-made wardrobe, which in its appearance will be very similar to furniture from natural wood... In addition, MDF, in contrast to laminated chipboard, allows the manufacture of more complex structures. On the other hand, laminated chipboard is more cheap stuff, therefore, a sliding wardrobe made of laminated chipboard will cost you less.

A sliding wardrobe is not only a fashionable, but also a very convenient interior detail. In our cramped apartments, wardrobes with sliding doors have perfectly taken root, because they take up much less space... The wardrobe fits very well computer desk and disappears as soon as you close the cabinet door ... Yes, such cabinets are just a godsend, because they are made according to individual orders and embody almost any of our wishes. But when we are just going to buy a wardrobe, a lot of questions arise.

What is the wardrobe made of?

When buying a wardrobe, each of us should be important what material it is made of. In most cases, chipboard (particle board) is used for these purposes: a cabinet made of this material comes out strong, durable and, importantly, inexpensive. But there are some nuances that you need to be aware of.
For example, you see on the closet P-A marking, 1, M, Sh, E1, GOST 10632-89. It's getting scary, isn't it?
But everything is simple here: PA, 1, M, W - this is a fine-structured (M) sanded (W) chipboard of the first grade (1 in the marking) brand P-A... It is in this version that the so-called " furniture chipboard". It is not at all necessary to know the meaning of each of the designations, the main thing is to remember that it is precisely such a chipboard that should be used in the manufacture of furniture.
The main interest is the designation E1 in the chipboard marking. It denotes how high the content of formaldehyde resins in the chipboard is. The fact is that chipboard is made from wood shavings and sawdust, which are held together by these very formaldehyde resins. Over time, formaldehyde resins begin to release into the air, and this is hazardous to health. There are two types of chipboard: E1 and E2. Particleboard E1 emits less harmful vapors into the air. But chipboard E2 is very toxic, so it is even forbidden to use it in the production of children's furniture. It is this point that should be paid primary attention.
In addition, if you are interested in a wardrobe for a bathroom or other room with high humidity, choose chipboard with increased level moisture resistance - it is indicated by the letter "B".
Naturally, cabinets made of simple sanded chipboard cannot please us with a wide variety of colors and textures, therefore, laminated chipboard is used in the production of furniture. Unlike ordinary chipboard, it is covered with a layer of paper-resin film. The paper is covered with a layer of thermosetting polymers, which is firmly soldered to the chipboard. Laminated chipboard is durable and resistant to any damage.
MirSovetov recommends: read on the label which chipboard was used in the manufacture of your cabinet: laminated or laminated. The fact is that at an equal cost, laminated chipboard begins to crumble quickly and the film begins to lag behind, so that a cabinet made of such chipboard will quickly lose its attractive appearance. Of course, you can order a wardrobe made of solid natural wood. But it will be several times more expensive.
Another material for sliding wardrobes is MDF. In fact, this is the same chipboard, only made using an improved technology. Dried wood fibers are formed into boards, treated with binders and hot pressed. As a result, there is no phenol or other substances hazardous to health in MDF. MDF is very resistant to high humidity, fungi and bacteria.

Now there are two types of systems for sliding wardrobes: steel and aluminum. Steel systems durable, strong and inexpensive, so they are classified as "economy class". Due to the heavy weight of the structures, the wardrobe looks more rough, in addition, the steel rollers will be visible from the outside. Sliding wardrobes of luxury class are equipped with aluminum frames and a special door opening mechanism. Naturally, they are much more expensive, although they are not inferior to steel ones in strength, because with the help of special additives, aluminum can be given a very high hardness while maintaining ease of handling.
The wardrobe door is completely inserted into a steel or aluminum frame, to which rollers are attached from above or below. In high-quality cabinets, the rollers are attached from below, and on top there is only a guide "rail". The "rails" on which the rollers roll have high edges, so the rollers do not fly off the rails when they open abruptly. If, on the contrary, the door hangs on rollers and is not secured by anything from below, the mechanism will fail very quickly, the door will constantly slide off the "rails". There are special rollers on the luxury wardrobes - on ball bearings. This ensures silent door opening.

The sliding wardrobe can be made as a cabinet or fully built-in.
A cabinet-type wardrobe differs from a conventional wardrobe only in the design of the doors, but otherwise they are very similar.
But the built-in wardrobe has a lot of differences. Firstly, to install a built-in wardrobe, you only need a back wall and two side walls. A frame is built into the opening between the side walls, floor and ceiling, doors are installed on it - and the wardrobe is ready. At your request, the side and back wall, or only some of them, can be used in the design of the built-in wardrobe.
Now you need to decide how many shelves and sections you will have in your closet. It all depends on what kind of wardrobe you need. If the wardrobe is installed in, it probably should have sections for outerwear and hats, as well as for shoes.
Hangers for outerwear can be of two types. In the first version, these are one or two bars installed parallel to the door, on which there will be clothes hangers. In the case of two rods, the higher one is used for long and fur coats, and hangers-hangers with shirts, jackets or blouses are placed on the lower one. In the second version, if the wardrobe is not deep enough (less than 60 cm), short end rods are reinforced on the back wall perpendicular to the door. These rods are often made movable, making it much easier to find the things you want.
Advice from MirSovetov: when ordering a wardrobe for the hallway, order two sections for outerwear - one of them will contain things that you wear constantly, and the other will be used as storage for clothes for other seasons. Naturally, the sections do not have to be equal in volume, but on the contrary, it all depends on the number of things in your wardrobe.
If you need a wardrobe for your bedroom, you will need shelves for storing linen and other clothes. By the way, for better ventilation bed linen manufacturers of sliding wardrobes suggest installing not shelves, but baskets made of thin metal mesh... Baskets have two advantages at once: you can immediately see the entire stack of laundry and you can easily take what you need by stirring the entire stack. Secondly, the laundry is constantly ventilated and will always be fresh.

A few words about the shelves

Convenient when there are many shelves in the closet. However, do not make the shelves too close to each other. Optimal distance between the shelves 30 cm - so it will be convenient for you to fold and take out clothes. If the wardrobe is designed for books, 23-25cm between the shelves is quite enough. But after all, books of a large, non-standard format are often found, so provide for them an upper or lower shelf, the distance to which will be at least 30 cm.
If the wardrobe is large, up to the ceiling, its upper shelves will be used as mezzanines for storing things that are rarely used. Such shelves are often very heavy, and in order for them to withstand such a load, they are usually not made long. Make sure that the shelves in your closet do not exceed 1 meter in length. In other words, in huge built-in wardrobes, the top shelf should be supported every meter.
And one more thing: every large closet should have. Neat lamps embedded in the top wall of the cabinet will make it much easier to find the things you need in the cabinet.

Sliding wardrobe doors

When ordering a wardrobe, you need to decide in advance what material the doors will be of. They can be made from laminated chipboard, then the wardrobe will be just an elegant addition to the interior. Or you can order glass or mirrored doors. Of course, they are more fragile (by the way, and the most expensive), but very beautiful. So, transparent glass doors most often installed in home libraries to be able to see the books on the shelves. Mirrored doors, especially if they are installed in built-in wardrobes in the entire wall, visually increase the size of the room. Plastic facade wardrobe is good for rooms made in modern style... The colors and textures of the plastic are so diverse that you will probably find exactly what you want.

When ordering a wardrobe ...

So, we have found out the main features of wardrobes, now you need to find a company that will make your wardrobe ...
Arriving at the office of the manufacturer of sliding wardrobes, first of all, ask what the edge of the chipboard parts is in their products. If they tell you that they cover the details of their cabinets with a consignment note or a cut-in edge, alas, this option is not for you. Applied and cut-in edges are a sign of handicraft production. They peel off quickly and greatly shorten the life of the cabinet. A reputable company will produce PVC edgebands with a thickness of 0.4 mm to 3 mm. Sliding wardrobes with PVC edge much more expensive, but they will serve you faithfully for many years.
Next, find out how thick the chipboard will be on the door and cabinet walls. For good doors chipboard with a thickness of 8-10 mm is required. But in Russia this is not produced, so in "left-wing" firms they take domestic chipboard 16 mm thick and grind grooves into which rollers are attached, adapted for a thin 8-mm plate. Thus, the door is twice as heavy as needed. Due to the extra weight of the door, the rollers will wear out catastrophically quickly.
Now the walls of the cabinet. If you expect to buy a wardrobe made of high-quality imported chipboard, then the thickness of its walls should be 18 mm. It makes sense to arm yourself with a caliper and measure the thickness of the chipboard. If "suddenly" it turned out that the walls of the cabinet are only 16 mm thick - you were deceived, instead of imported chipboard they installed domestic. Our chipboard is no worse than Western counterparts, the only difference is in price.

MirSovetov recommends that you do not save on the purchase of a wardrobe. A cheap wardrobe will "take revenge" on you a hundredfold, getting on your nerves with a grinding noise when opening doors, jumping off the "rails" and quickly losing appearance... Contact reputable companies, choose quality materials... And our advice will not allow anyone to deceive you!

The desire to make furniture with your own hands is welcome. After all, any thing, worked independently, acquires personality traits. Pick up a tool and create a masterpiece with your own hands. Let's start with the simplest one - making cabinet doors.

A simple solution available to everyone

To get the job done quickly, choose one of the least time-consuming manufacturing options swing doors cabinet:

• from the panel;
• from finishing plywood½ inch;
• for professionals;
• hanging sashes purchased in the store.

Homemade paneled doors are hung on semi-hidden overhead hinges. It is not required to cut the grooves with a mill, the sashes can be made of the required size, at the end of the work the product is covered with furniture varnish.

Rice. 1. Plywood doors with a half-hidden hinge

Homemade hinged plywood doors are finished around the edges. Each sash should protrude from the front frame by about one centimeter. Cutting grooves is not required, fastening to the rear side of the door and to the end of the front frame is not difficult.

Hanging the ready-made doors selected in the store on semi-hidden hinges or making doors in production according to drawings makes it possible to do the job without turning the apartment into a carpentry shop.

Rice. 2. Samples of door fittings

From fittings, if there are no self-closing hinges, you can use: A - universal constipation; B - roller; C - a lock locked with a key; D - door brass bolt; E - magnetic latch. The last element is most often used on glass doors.

Finishing plywood doors

Work should start by taking measurements doorway and the choice of the number of doors to be installed. With a width of more than 60 cm, one sash is not enough. If the decision is made to install one panel, the height and width remain unchanged. When double-leaf doors are made, the width of the opening is halved and about 1.3 cm is subtracted from it on each side.

Rice. 3. We make a cabinet: taking measurements

To frame the sashes, 45 ° bevel profiles are measured and cut. These elements are attached to the panel with 1 1/2 ”finishing nails. Coating is done with varnish.

On the back side of the doors, 2 half-hidden overhead hinges are installed. We recommend fixing them at a distance of 5 cm from the edge of the panel (top and bottom). If the door height is more than 75 cm, use 1 more hinge in the center. To check the correctness taken dimensions it will be convenient for the front frame, above 1.3 cm from the doorway, temporarily stick the adhesive marking tape.

The door is placed over the opening, the top edge is aligned with the marking tape. The location of the hinges must be marked on the front frame with pieces of the same tape.

Base holes are drilled into which the door is attached to the screws. The hinges should be in the marked place. The marking tape is removed after the door is installed. Attached last door handles and other elements of door fittings.

Rice. 4. We make a wardrobe: overlaying the sash on the opening and installing it

If a hinged door is manufactured, then semi-hidden hinges are attached to the front frame at the bottom, and holders and latches are installed on the sides to prevent spontaneous swinging of the sash.

Rice. 5. We make a wardrobe: attaching door fittings

Assembly of sliding doors

You can install with your own hands not only swing doors, but also sliding canvases doors. They save space, make furniture more stylish, modern look... Sliding doors - integral element constructions of both built-in and cabinet-type wardrobes. By constructive solution, there are:

• suspended;
• rail.

In the first case, the upper rail withstands the main load, in the second, the lower one. House master with proper dexterity and skills, he can install any doors in the closet with his own hands. However, if you want to make suspended structure, you will need:

• physical assistance in the installation of doors;
• applying efforts to move the flaps;
• complex system adjustment.

Over time, under heavy weight, the top of the front frame will begin to sag. There are more reliable suspension systems in which a smooth ride is realized. We are talking about structures with a distributed load on 8 wheels (and not 2, as usual) and installation of bearings in the rollers. But such a system:

• takes an additional 150 mm of cabinet space;
• does not look aesthetically pleasing;
• costs more.

Plus suspension system we should admit its low exactingness to door leaf... A door knocked together from any rough material, screwed on with larger self-tapping screws, will roll properly.

Choosing a rail structure

It is easier to assemble a rail system with your own hands, although it is more capricious in operation. When deciding on a design, pay attention to its quality. It is impossible to fix, to do something worthwhile, if, having decided to save money, you acquire dubious parts.

Door systems of the "Commander" type have proven themselves well in operation. However, do not rely only on the name of the model: some would-be manufacturers manage to replace aluminum guides with tin ones or in some other way spoil a good idea.

The main advantages of using a high-quality rail system:

• Low weight of the doors, even mirrored glass.
• Simplicity of design and adjustment.
• Variety of facades (laminated chipboard 8 mm, mirrors with a sandblast pattern, etc.);
• Silence, ease of fixation in extreme positions.

Rice. 6. Possible options do-it-yourself wardrobe facades with rail doors

When installing this system, screw connections are not used, the door frames are fastened with latches. For DIY assembly, this is the most acceptable option.

An example of calculating the overall dimensions of sliding doors

Let's calculate the size of sliding doors:

• door width;
• canvas height;
• number of materials.

Rice. 7. Scheme of a wardrobe

Calculating the width of the doors will give a size of 1556 mm: the thickness of the right wall (16 mm) must be subtracted from the total span of the opening (1572 mm) covered by the doors. Any sliding structures overlap each other, so we add 50 mm to the calculated figure (for each panel 25 mm), we get 1606 mm. The extra 50 mm is guaranteed to ensure that there are no gaps when opening, but you can make a tolerance of 25 mm, at a minimum. We divide the resulting width (1606 mm) by the number of planes (2) and display the width of one sash - 803 mm.

Rice. 8. Sliding wardrobe: the location of the doors, top view

We begin determining the length of the canvas by fixing the total overall height from floor to ceiling. In this case, it is 2481 mm. It is necessary to subtract 16 mm from it on the pads for the guides from above and below and on the gaps between the guide and the door by 15 mm. We get a canvas with a height of 2419 mm, therefore, for a wardrobe, it is necessary to make 2 sliding doors with dimensions of 2419x803 mm.

Rice. 9. Door profile of built-in or cabinet-type wardrobe

When calculating the amount of materials necessary for making sliding cabinet doors with your own hands, it should be borne in mind that the profile is realized in segments of 2700 mm. For 2 doors you need 4 whips (left and right ends of both doors).

Rice. 10. Sliding wardrobe: upper (1) and lower (2) horizontal door profiles

The framing profile for the top and bottom of the sashes is realized in segments with a step length of 1 meter. Therefore, you will need to purchase 2 meters of the upper profile and 2 of the lower one.

Manufacturing of door frames

We start assembling the frame, the kit for 1 sash includes:

• 2 support rollers for the lower guide profile;
• 2 bolts for attaching support wheels;
• 4 self-tapping screws for connecting horizontal and vertical profiles;
• 2 support for securing the sash in the upper guide profile.

Rice. 11. Cutting the vertical profile to the required length

1. Having made the markings, we cut off 4 segments of the vertical profile of the required length. In the example above, it equals 2419 mm. Remember that the whips are glued to protect them from damage during transport. plastic wrap... It is not required to remove it before cutting, it will protect against accidental scratches.

1. The length of the upper and lower profiles is calculated as follows: from the 803 mm sash width obtained in the example above, subtract 25 mm to the right and left verticals, and then add 1 mm each to fit the elements into the grooves. The resulting length of the horizontal profile is 755 mm.

Rice. 12. Scheme of entry of the horizontal profile into the groove of the vertical

1. We determine the place of drilling in the vertical profile for the self-tapping screw, which will fasten it to the lower horizontal one. To do this, using a vernier caliper, we measure the distance from the end of the profile to the middle of the hole for the self-tapping screw (7.5 mm) and transfer it to a vertical whip. We repeat this procedure with the upper horizontal profile. Do the same with the second vertical whip.
2. On the vertical profile on the bottom side, we mark the holes for installing the support wheels. To do this, it is necessary to measure the gap between the end face and the middle of the mounting hole of the block with the support wheel and transfer the resulting size to the vertical whip.

Rice. 13. Drilling a vertical profile

1. Wherever the markings are made, we drill through (through the outer and inner strips) 5 mm mounting holes for self-tapping screws. In total, there should be 3 holes in each vertical whip, the first is for securing the upper profile, the second is for fixing the lower one, the third at the very bottom is for installing the support rollers.

1. We increase the diameter of the hole in the outer strip to 8 mm, this will allow us to hide the self-tapping head in it, and the lower strip will be pressed against it.

Installation of door frames and calculation of the filling

After alignment drilled holes a self-tapping screw is inserted, and the structural elements are pulled together. Before finally tightening the upper guide rail, insert the positioning support.

It is not necessary to screw in the bolt deeper, let it come out of the profile by 1-2 mm. In the future, with its help, it will be possible to adjust the position of the sash on the lower support.

You can make filling for do-it-yourself doors, like the cabinet itself, from a variety of materials. But before selecting them, let's remove the dimensions between the upper and lower horizontal strips (in our example, it will turn out to be 2360 mm), and between the left and right vertical strips (767 mm).

On each side, it is necessary to make a gap of 1 mm, this will allow the frame to be assembled without difficulty. The filling size will decrease to 2358 and 765 mm, respectively. If you want to make a cabinet with mirrored or glass doors with your own hands, then you should remove another 1 mm from each side. This is explained by a rubber gasket sealing tape, therefore, the size of the filler will be reduced to 2356x763 mm.