Sooner or later, the enamel of any bath becomes thinner, indelibles appear on it. rusty streaks, and its owner notes with chagrin that it is time to change the equipment. This difficult procedure is very time consuming, so many are trying to figure out how to update an old cast iron bathtub, and whether it is possible at all. Although appearance such a device leaves much to be desired, the design completely retains all its performance characteristics... Therefore, the restoration should only consist of applying a new enamel coating. Modern technologies let you do it.

Is it worth restoring old equipment?

The most obvious solution is to replace the plumbing fixtures. Let's try to estimate how much such an event will result in. To the cost of the simplest bathtub, we add the cost of its transportation, lifting the device to the floor, if required. In addition, a certain amount will be required to pay for the dismantling of the old equipment and the installation of new ones. At the lowest prices, all this will require about 12,000 rubles. This is only when the wall and flooring will not be damaged when installation works... Otherwise, you will also have to pay for a partial renovation of the bathroom.

Dismantling the old one and installing new bath- troublesome and costly event. If the enamel of the equipment has become thinner or washed off, and the device itself is still in good condition, you should think about restoration

So for enough large sum we get a modest result, since the cost of the cheapest bath was included in the calculation. If you want a more comfortable or high-quality construction, will have to increase the estimated cost item. Not everyone can afford these costs, so they want to refurbish their cast iron bathtub. This is a cheaper and more efficient solution.

However, it is very important to choose the correct restoration method. There are only three of them:

• bathtub covering with acrylic;
• applying a new layer of enamel to the surface of the device;
• installation of an acrylic insert.

Let's take a closer look at each method.

What methods of restoration are there?

Option # 1 - acrylic coating

The restoration of a cast-iron bathtub by the method of "pouring" acrylic is considered one of the simplest. This is enough new method, which managed to gain popularity among consumers. It consists in applying a liquid acrylic solution by pouring onto the surface of the equipment. Its advantages include:

• Durability. The coating obtained in this way, provided that it is correctly applied, retains its properties for about 8-15 years. This is due to the fact that acrylic is applied in a sufficiently thick layer of about 6 mm.
• Smooth glossy finish. The composition is quite thick. It spreads well over the surface of the device, filling possible irregularities, forming an almost perfectly flat and smooth plane.
• Relative simplicity and high speed of application of liquid acrylic.
• Absence bad smell, which allows you to perform work even in homes where allergy sufferers, children and the elderly live.

There are also disadvantages of the method. These include the drying time of the composition. This usually takes about three days, during which it is not recommended even to approach the device. Since debris, dust or water accidentally falling on a drying surface can ruin it.

Despite the seeming simplicity of applying acrylic by pouring, this is a rather complicated method of restoration. Requires certain skills to work with the squad

One more negative point- relatively high cost. It is higher than that of enamel. However, this price is quite justified more long term exploitation and good quality cover.

Option # 2 - self-enameling

Most old way restoration. It remotely resembles painting, but you need to clearly understand that in this case, special enamel is applied. It is she who needs to be chosen, wondering how you can paint a cast-iron bath. There are two types of such formulations: for professional application and for self-application. The first ones are very liquid and require laying in several layers. This is a rather complicated procedure. The latter are thicker and, accordingly, easier to apply.

Correctly selected composition with the help of a roller, or more often a brush, is laid on the prepared surface of the equipment. The advantages of this method:

• The cheapest restoration option.
• There is no need for dismantling and subsequent installation of drain and overflow.
• Suitable for both cast iron and steel baths.

There are many more disadvantages of enameling:

• The service life of the new enamel is about 5 years.
• The composition applied to the surface of the equipment dries for a rather long time - about 5-7 days.
• The coating turns out to be tough, accordingly, very sensitive to impacts. Chips may appear over time.
• The enamel is applied in a fairly thin layer, therefore it is not able to close various surface irregularities such as dents, chips, etc.
• Over time, the epoxy coating will necessarily turn yellow.

It should be understood that the enamel obtained as a result of the restoration is seriously different from the one that was applied to the equipment initially.

Cold enameling is the cheapest and easiest restoration method. It resembles painting the surface with a special compound.

In order for the enamel to last as long as possible, you should perform simple rules... For example, to wash a renewed cast-iron bath, you need not an abrasive powder, but a soft soap solution... Otherwise the enamel will be damaged. Protect the appliance from impacts, especially sharp objects, and do not pour too much into it. hot water... When filling the container, first open the tap with cold water and only then - with a hot one.

Option # 3 - "bath in bath" method

This is the name of the restoration method, which consists in installing inside the old structure. acrylic liner completely repeating its contours. The insert is mounted on a special adhesive foam. With competently carried out work, the service life of the bath after restoration is about 15 years. The main advantages of the method:

• The strength of the new coating. Acrylic is much stronger than enamel.
• A smooth surface that hides all the defects of the old structure.
• The surface will not turn yellow over time.
• A successful combination of the advantages of an acrylic and cast iron bathtub.

The disadvantages of this method can be considered the need to dismantle the drain siphon and the prohibition on installing the insert in thin structures, which are called "made of light cast iron" or "thin cast iron". This is due to the fact that the equipment can bend and the adhesive layer that secures the liner will be broken. The "bath in bath" method is very demanding on the quality of materials. The bath cannot be refurbished with a poor quality insert or the wrong adhesive.

Installation of the acrylic liner is simple and effective method restoration. Pay particular attention to the size of the insert. It must match the bathtub perfectly.

All three methods require preparing the equipment for the upgrade. This stage usually includes cleaning the cast iron bath from dirt and grease. Degreasing is done with oxalic acid or baking soda. All defects are carefully cleaned so that the surface is even. Then resurfacing is carried out. The result should be a rough surface. When the desired composition is applied to it, adhesion with it will be maximum.

To restore or not - objective conclusions

The decision to restore or replace the old bathtub will, of course, be made by its owner. However, you need to know that if you correctly carry out the restoration work and use only quality materials, the renovated bathtub will last a long time. It may be worth entrusting this task to experienced professionals with a good reputation. Then, for relatively little money, you can get an excellent result.

Cast iron baths many seem to be "eternal". In a sense, this is indeed the case. These products are durable, not subject to corrosion and can be used for more than a dozen years. The only "weak link" is the enamel, which, even with proper care, becomes thinner over time.

The zealous owners, realizing that only the appearance has deteriorated, are looking for ways to update an old cast-iron bath. Let's consider a few of them.

We usually send our used product to a landfill without regret. However, the cast-iron bathtub, which has lost its attractive appearance, may well be operated further. But replacing it may seem irrational.

The large weight of the equipment makes it very difficult to dismantle and remove it from the apartment, especially if it is located above the first floor. In addition, if tiles have been laid or made around the bathtub, all this will have to be disassembled.

Image gallery

Cold enamel bath

Another way to restore a cast iron bath is cold enameling. This is a fairly simple process, which consists in applying a special composition to the bowl, which, after hardening, turns into an enamel coating.

The main advantage of the method is its low cost compared to other restoration methods. In addition, you can cover the bowl with such enamel an unlimited number of times.

The disadvantages include long-term drying of the composition. It will take about 4 days to dry completely. In addition, cold applied enamel is less durable than that which is applied to bowls in the factory.

Its service life is maximum five years, after which the restoration procedure will have to be repeated. Compared to acrylic, such enamel retains heat worse, so the water in the bath will cool faster.

You can add tinting paste to the bath coating composition, so the enamel will acquire the desired shade.

How to choose the right enamel?

Properties and durability of the future enamelled coating directly depend on the quality of the composition.

• Enamel application method... There are solutions commercially available that can be applied with a roller, brush or spray. The last option especially good as it assumes an even application.
• Hardener shade. Composition for cold enameling is a two, less often three-component agent. One of the ingredients is a hardener. If it is dark yellow, brown, or dark red on finished coating an unwanted shade may appear.
• Enamel tone. If desired, the enamel composition can be painted in any color. For this, special tinting pastes are intended, which can be sold complete with enamel or separately. Masters advise to select the shade of the coating directly in the room where the equipment is installed.
• Complete set of restoration kit... The fuller it is, the better. Together with the enamel, tinting pastes and special means to prepare the bath for restoration.

Practice shows that for application with a roller or brush, sufficiently thick two-component compounds, such as Epoxin 51C and Epoxin 51, are best suited. They fill small defects in the substrate quite well.

Suitable for use with a spray gun Finnish squad Reflex 50 or Rust-Oleum Specialty. The Whitest NEWTON spray has proven itself well. Detailed overview read restorative agents for baths.

Before painting the cast-iron bath, it is necessary to remove the upper glossy layer of the enamel coating. This can be done with a grinder

Preparing the bowl for enameling

You should start by removing the upper glossy layer of enamel. To do this, the surface will have to be carefully abraded to remove about 30-50 microns of gloss. For work, you can take sandpaper, abrasive powders or a grinder with a grinding wheel. Especially quickly, you can get the result using a flap wheel in combination with an abrasive paste. The latter can be prepared by yourself.

To do this, take the grated laundry soap and mix it with abrasive sandblasting powder in a ratio of 1: 3. Those who know how to restore cast-iron baths, the masters recommend taking ground nickel-slag, fraction no higher than 0.16-0.18 mm.

The components are well mixed and filled with water. The paste is aged for about a day. The result is a viscous mass that resembles a fairly hard plasticine.

The whole bowl is treated with it and immediately passed in a petal circle. This is done one or two more times until the base becomes rough and dull. Important note: do not completely remove the enamel. If the surface becomes noticeably darker, the treatment is stopped.

After that, wash the bowl thoroughly, dismantle the overflow and siphon, clean the untreated areas and temporarily put the siphon in place.

You can prepare an abrasive paste for working with a grinder yourself

The next step is to degrease the surface, but it is better to carry out chemical etching. It makes the coating structure porous, removes deep limestone deposits and rust spots. As a result, the new coating lays down much better and its service life is significantly extended.

If the surface has ingrained rust stains, you should start by removing them. They are lubricated with special rust solvents, such as Tsinkar or FAS.

Upon completion of the reaction, the stain will blur and turn pale. At this point, it must be washed off with water. It is important to do this before the solution dries, otherwise rust will remain in the pores of the coating. Etching is carried out in three steps.

First, a 3.5% hydrochloric acid solution is applied to the surface. This operation is performed several times with an interval of 6-7 minutes. After that, the composition is thoroughly washed off and bleach is applied, diluted with water to a slurry.

The solution is left on the base for 20 minutes and then washed off. When working with acid and lime, you should wear a respirator, their vapors are poisonous. The surface of the bowl is dried with a hairdryer. After that, degreasing should be carried out in order to remove all remnants of reagents and organics. For this, a lint-free cloth is impregnated with trichlorethylene, Kalosh gasoline or acetone. The bowl is carefully processed and then dried.

The bathtub can be painted with a spray bottle. The masters claim that this method gives the best result.

Apply enamel to the bath

Immediately before painting should be carried out in the bathroom wet cleaning... This will get rid of dust that can settle on the surface of the wet enamel. In this case, unpleasant rough dots will appear on the glossy layer, which is highly undesirable. After that, the door to the bathroom should be kept constantly closed or the opening should be covered with plastic.

After that, if necessary, the composition is prepared for work. In this case, all instructions of the manufacturer should be strictly followed. The prepared solution is applied to the surface of the bowl. The easiest way to do this is to work with a spray bottle. The paint is sprayed from a distance of about 30 cm. Short cross strokes are made. The solution should slightly moisten the surface.

You don't need to apply a lot of paint. The bowl is covered with several layers of the composition. This should be done evenly. The second layer is applied to the first one after 15-20 minutes, all subsequent ones are applied at intervals of 30 minutes. After finishing work, the bowl should dry completely. To do this, the door to the bathroom is tightly closed and they enter it only after a day. Brush painting is done in a slightly different way.

Image gallery

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The videos below discuss in detail different ways restoration of a cast-iron bath.

How to install the acrylic insert correctly:

Do you have any questions about the topic of the article? Or have you ever restored a cast-iron bath yourself? Please tell our readers which restoration method you have chosen, are you satisfied with the result? Leave your comments, upload photos, share your experience in the block below.

Sometimes during repairs, change old bath, there is no possibility, and then the restoration of its surface is a convenient and practical way out. Our article will tell you what the restoration of baths with your own hands will require.

Bath - important and key, but bulky bathroom equipment. Cast iron baths look solid and very easy to use, but their enamel surface cannot last as long as eternal cast iron. The coating of more capricious steel and acrylic containers also needs to be refurbished. However, sometimes replacing or buying a new bathtub seems too costly, and then the restoration of the bathtub can become part of the renovation work.

One of the most popular methods at the moment is painting and an acrylic insert in the bathroom, the essence of which is to apply a new layer to the existing layer of bath enamel: in the form of staining (pouring) acrylic paint or putting a finished acrylic layer inside the bath.

Bath restoration before and after

Features of acrylic coating and care

The technologies are different, while the result - a bulk acrylic bathtub - is the same: a bathtub with a coating that has such physical properties, how

• wear resistance (up to 15-20 years),
• low thermal conductivity (which means more comfortable water temperature retention),
• spectacular and dazzling surface smoothness, pleasing to the eye and skin, and the associated ease of care.

Features of acrylic bathroom care

However, it is important! A ready-made bathtub requires more attention to itself: acrylic coating will not tolerate strong directional blows and aggressive impact chemical substances.

Acrylic fears:

• falling heavy objects onto the floor
• blows with pointed objects
• warp deformations
• abrasive cleaning powders
• aggressive chemical compounds
• colored or colored detergents (for example, sea ​​salt for Bath)

However, care is also simple: to remove dirt from the bulk bath, it is enough to use a soft fabric texture with any light gel or creamy detergent.
Another important advantage of acrylic is its rich color palette, which can be selected, ranging from the variety of colors to their subtlest shades, because the color is obtained by adding color to the liquid enamel. Liquid acrylic for old bathtubs can give not only a new surface, but also a new color, which is convenient when renovating an entire bathroom.

Baths restoration with liquid acrylic: the "bulk bath" method

About liquid acrylic for baths

Liquid acrylic is an enamel that is resistant to minor mechanical damage, such as cracks and scratches, temperature changes and the formation of rust. But acrylic usually does not withstand the effects of many chemicals and is completely defenseless against abrasive substances.

Acrylic paint is convenient not only for acrylic bath, it is widely used for new coating of cast iron and steel bathtubs. There are many varieties of acrylic bath paint, and the choice must be made very carefully. There are paints which require an impressive time for solidification: from 2 to 4 days, modern manufacturers offer options that will allow you to use the bathroom after 36 hours. But is time always the main thing?

When choosing a material, you should also pay attention to ...

• miscibility of two-component formulations: if it turns out to be poor, then a uniform consistency will not be easy to achieve,
• plasticity and fluidity of the material, the formation of bubbles: the spreading mass should lie down in an even and ideally smooth layer,
• shade of mass and possible color of the coating (dark, yellowish, grayish),
  chemical vapors and odor during work,
• the final result according to consumer reviews: there are opinions on the network that for some coatings, it can be dangerous to hit even a dropped bottle of shower gel.
  The main thing, of course, is the end result: a high-quality self-leveling bath is an even coating without cracks and reliefs, where all surface irregularities are filled with substance and create perfect smoothness.

Surface preparation

Tool for the "Filling bath"

The restoration of baths with liquid acrylic begins with an important preparatory stage, on which the quality of work largely depends. To simplify the process, you can purchase a repair kit for acrylic bathtubs, which includes the materials necessary for the preparatory stage: sandpaper, resin, cloth for wiping and polishing.

Step 1. Completely free the edges of the bathtub and its sides along the entire perimeter: for this, sometimes you even have to remove the slopes of the ceramic tiles.

Important! It is better to carry out work on covering the bathtub with liquid acrylic before starting work on the walls.

Important! The filling bath cannot be made during construction works under no circumstances: any debris and dust is dangerous for drying acrylic.

Step 2. Clean the surface of the bath, trying to remove all the unevenness of the previous coating and make the surface as rough as possible - this will create the necessary adhesion of the new enamel and old surface... To do this, you can use sandpaper and abrasives or a drill with an abrasive wheel.

Advice: Compliance with safety precautions is imperative: for this dusty work, a respirator and safety glasses are essential.

Step 3. Wash off dust and any particles formed during the sanding step.

Step 4. Degrease the surface with a solvent or ordinary baking soda gruel.

Important! Degreasing with acetone is prohibited.

Step 5. Rinse the bath well warm water, trying to absolutely clean it from chemical residues.

Step 6. Treat large chips and deep cracks with quick-drying auto-filler or special resin for acrylic surfaces, small - do not need special attention: acrylic like smart enamel will fill them in on its own.

Step 7. Fill the bath hot water and leave for 10-15 minutes: for an even coating and good adhesion, the surface must be warm.

Step 8. Drain the water. Wipe the surface dry with a clean cloth that does not leave lint or other tiny particles on the rough surface.

Step 9. Dismantle the upper and lower drain of the siphon by placing a container in the lower hole for the remains of draining acrylic.

Bathtub painting with acrylic

Acrylic paint is applied to a cast iron, steel or acrylic bathtub in the same way.

Step 1. Thoroughly until smooth, mix the 2 components for the preparation of liquid acrylic, exactly following the instructions: each manufacturer has its own technology for preparing the solution.

Step 2. Pour some of the mixture into a shallower container for more convenient pouring of paint onto the surface of the bath.

Pouring bath process technology

Step 3. In a thin stream, start pouring acrylic onto the sides of the bathtub so that the paint layer is thick, about 4-5 cm and flows down to half of the bathtub walls (conditionally divide the height of the bathtub walls in half). The jet should be as continuous as possible and cover the entire bath in a ring.

Tip: There is no need to correct uneven or uneven streams of flowing substance: acrylic will gradually spread over the surface without extraneous efforts.

Step 4. Immediately start pouring the second layer of acrylic - starting from the second half of the walls of the bath. It is not necessary to wait for the acrylic to drain to this conditional line. The pouring scheme is the same: without correcting or correcting anything, leaving a thick layer of 4-5 mm, acting continuously and closing the circle.

Tip: Painting a bath with liquid acrylic will be of better quality if all actions are carried out quickly and efficiently.

Step 5. The liquid accumulated at the bottom of the bath, carefully spread with a spatula over the bottom of the bath, forcing the excess to drain into the drain hole.

A fresh filling bath should remain absolutely untouchable for 2-3 days: water, dust, particles of debris can leave traces on it, which will be impossible to fix.

Bathtub restoration with acrylic insert

Bathroom acrylic insert is plastic cover bath-shaped, inserted into and fixed in a container. It has all the advantages and disadvantages of acrylic: a smooth surface that is pleasant to the touch, resistant to cracks and dirt, but requires special care and attention.

Acrylic insert

This is another one alternative method restoration of both acrylic and steel and cast iron baths... Its advantage is ease of installation, with which can be handled by any owner who has to handle jigsaw, sealant and polyurethane foam.

The acrylic insert fits into the bath clearly in size without taking into account the sides: length - from edge to edge, width in the narrowest and widest places, depth - from the drain hole to the beginning of the sides. The color of acrylic inserts may vary.

Surface preparation

Preparing a surface for installing an acrylic insert in a bath is similar to preparing a surface for a pouring bath, but has several important nuances:

Step 1. Free the edges of the bathtub from the tile or its slopes.

Important! If during the manufacture of the filling bath, the slopes and sides can be left, carefully working with the paint, then when installing the insert, a significant dismantling of the bathroom wall is simply necessary: ​​the edges of the bath are an indispensable element for installing the insert.

Step 2. Sand the surface with sandpaper and a drill with an abrasive wheel, again achieving a rough surface - for better adhesion of the liner and old enamel.

Step 3. Thoroughly rinse the surface from any particles of debris and dust.

Step 4. Dismantle both the upper overflow and the lower drain of the siphon.

Acrylic Bathtub Insert: Installation

Step 1. Place the insert in the bath container and, starting from the sides, measure the location of the edges and cut off the excess material with a jigsaw.

Step 2. Determine the location drain holes on the side and bottom of the bath. Cut holes with a diameter of 54 mm from the inside of the insert.

Installation of acrylic insert

Important! Fitting is a crucial stage of installation, precisely because the incorrect calculation of future holes or edges will affect the fastening and sealing of the structure.

Step 3. Apply sealant around and around the drain holes.

Step 4. Apply polyurethane foam on the sides of the bath, starting from the bottom of the bath, the distance between the lines of application is 15 cm. Then at the bottom of the bath in a dense layer along - along its length.

Important! The foam hardens quickly, so you need to act quickly.

Step 5. Immediately install the tab and secure the harness.

Step 6. Fill the tub with cold water to half or a little more. Leave on for 24 hours.

Tip: The insert will function reliably and for a long time if you use only a shower for the first 10 days, without filling the bath with water, without putting stress on the sides and side walls.

Both the acrylic insert and the pouring bath - convenient way prolong the life of the bath, but which method is safer and more convenient, will tell specific situation and the very capacity of the bath.

Over time, even the most expensive and quality bath falls into disrepair. The enamel loses its shine, scratches appear on it, the thickness of the protective layer drastically decreases, bare metal appears, and this is rust with all the ensuing consequences.

It seems that there is only one way out - replacing the bowl, but there is no need to rush, for a start it is worth considering the option of repair. Simple painting will help restore an attractive appearance, while restoring the bath with liquid acrylic or installing an insert will allow you to get a practically new product.

Restoration or replacement

Replacing the bathtub is expensive and troublesome. It is enough to ask about the cost of a new bowl, add transportation costs, which is especially important for remote corners of the country, - the amount will turn out to be considerable. Also, do not forget that the installation of a new bathtub is preceded by the dismantling of the old one, and this is completely fraught with a complete renovation of the bathroom.

The bowl that has lost its gloss is not a reason for despondency. Dismantling and replacement can be postponed, and at once for several years, you just need to carry out its restoration. It sounds a little intimidating, but in fact anyone can do the job, of course, you will have to work hard to achieve the desired result.

It is up to the owners to restore a bath or buy a new one; nevertheless, it is worth weighing all the positive and negative sides recovery and only after that make a decision.

With the pluses, everything is clear, they consist in savings and give a chance to postpone repairs. Now about the cons:

• the new coating will not be as durable as the factory one;
• it is difficult to achieve an ideal surface, in some places the old coating can shine through;
• enamel tends to change color when exposed to cleaning agents.

All these are serious shortcomings, but it is easy to deal with them, it is enough to take good care of inner surface bowl, do not use strong dyes inside it (for example, hair dye), avoid dropping heavy and sharp objects.

Restoration methods

Currently, there are three main ways to restore the inner surface of the bath. The oldest of them is enamel coating, in fact, this is an ordinary painting using special coloring compositions.

This method has a number of significant advantages:

• cheapness and availability of material;
• ease of work, painting can be done independently;
• no need to dismantle the bowl.

The work will not take much time, in most cases the bathroom will be ready to use in a week. True, with all this, there are significant drawbacks.

The coating will be shock-sensitive. Enameling will not hide surface imperfections, but often accentuate them, over time the coating will turn yellow. After such a restoration, the bath surface cannot be cleaned with abrasive products.

The second option, which is often used to update cast iron baths, is to use an insert. The essence of the method is simple - an acrylic insert is glued into the old bathtub, in fact, another bathtub, the dimensions of which exactly correspond to the internal dimensions of the cast-iron bathtub.

Note! The use of an acrylic liner guarantees ease of operation, strength and reliability of the renewed surface, eliminating all the shortcomings of the old bathtub. This coating will not turn yellow over time.

The service life of the liner can be from 10 to 15 years, which is quite comparable to the service life of a new bowl. These are pluses, but everything is not so rosy, there were some drawbacks. Such a restoration has a high price, and partial dismantling of the plumbing will be required to install the liner. The method is not suitable for thin steel bath... High demands are placed on the materials (liner and adhesives).

Another method of restoration is acrylic coating, it is also called "bulk bath". During the renovation, liquid acrylic is poured into the bowl, forming a new, impact-resistant surface. A special advantage of this method is the fact that at home you can create a coating with a thickness of 5 mm or more, thereby making a new acrylic bath on a cast iron base.

Bowl preparation

All three restoration methods have significant differences, but they also have one thing in common - preparatory stage... To get a reliable and smooth coating, you need to remove the old enamel, level the surface and ensure maximum adhesion of the new coating to the metal.

You must immediately prepare the tool:

• scraper and brush for metal;
• solvent;
• several sheets of sandpaper;
• car putty;
• an angle grinder and circles for it;
• construction hair dryer.

You will also need rags, old newspapers and masking tape. The first step is to remove the enamel layer. Sandpaper is suitable for this, it is quick and convenient to work grinder with a nozzle. It is necessary to remove the paint not only from the inner surface, but also from the sides.

After removing the old enamel, the bath is thoroughly washed out, etched with a solution of oxalic acid. Having achieved the desired result, the acid is neutralized with baking soda.

The dry surface is carefully examined for possible defects, deformations, dents. If there are any, they are leveled with an automobile putty, after hardening, they are smoothed with sandpaper. Dust is removed with a vacuum cleaner.

The inner surface is degreased with a solvent. The bath is disconnected from communications, the drain is unscrewed, a container must be substituted for it to collect excess enamel or acrylic. The taps are wrapped in polyethylene to avoid accidental drops.

It remains to paste over the wall at the side of the bathtub with masking tape, spread the newspapers on the floor, and you can proceed directly to the restoration.

The sequence of actions when applying enamel

Restoring the enamel of an old bathtub is the most common restoration method. It should be noted that this method can be used to update not only the bath bowl, but also any enameled sanitary ware (sinks, sinks, shower tray). With the help of enamel, you can completely replace the old coating or repair a small damaged area.

At any suitable dishes mix the enamel with a hardener, following the manufacturer's recommendations.

Important! Take care of ventilation right away and prepare a respirator, as most enamels have a pungent chemical odor.

Apply a layer of paint with a brush or roller. Immediately, while the enamel is not dry, apply a second layer. Smudges are smeared with a brush, the bottom is re-painted. Several more layers are applied if necessary. After that, it remains only to wait until the paint has completely solidified, and after about a week the bathroom can be used.

Complete reconstruction of the bath is not always required; often it is necessary to close a small chip, smooth out a dent. In this case, you just need to clean up the damaged area, degrease it, level it with ordinary automotive putty and paint over with enamel. Expendable materials can be purchased separately or purchased with a bath repair kit. In addition to paint, it includes sandpaper, putty and instructions.

Restoration with an acrylic insert

The method is distinguished by the simplicity of work and the time that will be spent on it - the restored bathroom can be used the very next day. It's really simple. First you need to buy the insert itself. All popular sizes can be found on sale, so there will be no problems with the choice. As in the previous method, the bath must be prepared before starting the restoration. The cleaner the surface, the more reliably the sealant will seize, the longer the bowl will last.

In addition to cleaning the inner surface, it is necessary to dismantle the trim elements. In the case of an old bath, you will most likely have to use a grinder. The grinder is necessary to remove the technological edge on the liner.

Advice! You can measure their parameters with a ruler, or you can simply set the liner in place, and trace the contours of the holes with a pencil.

Following the manufacturer's instructions, fixing compounds are prepared and applied to the surface of the bowl. Insert the liner, press it into place, remove excess foam. The piping is installed.

After that, you need to completely fill the bath with water, this is done so that the foam does not displace light acrylic. Actually, the work is over.

Restoration with bulk acrylic

The option of covering the bath with acrylic is perhaps the best in the case of restoration. This method of surface restoration is simple to work with and significantly cheaper than installing the liner, however, to achieve the desired result, you will have to try hard.

Liquid acrylic (stacril) is a two-component mixture, therefore, you need to prepare it before starting work. The sequence of actions is described in the instructions, you just need to follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

From the container in which the composition was mixed, you need to collect a little into a glass and slowly pour the acrylic onto the upper edge of the bath. The thick mixture will gradually drain down. After waiting for the moment when the liquid reaches the middle of the wall, the glass is slowly moved further, moving along the perimeter and covering all areas. The liquid must be topped up as necessary.

Walking around the bathtub in a circle, they begin to pour the glass from the middle of the wall. You need to work carefully, you should not rush, in otherwise the surface will turn out to be heterogeneous, bubbles will appear. Also, do not try to save money when you rebuild the bath. The excess composition will pour out into the drain and end up in the container under it, but the surface will turn out to be even and smooth.

After the walls and bottom are completely filled, it remains to wait for the coating to harden, connect communications, put things in order in the room and you can take a bath.

Do-it-yourself restoration of an old bathtub will allow you to significantly save money without limiting yourself. The right way, plus a little work, and the bath is like new. A well-restored bowl will last more than one year, allowing you to postpone expensive repairs until later.

Today, the method of restoration of a bath with acrylic is gaining great popularity. It allows you to independently update old plumbing within a short period of time. This will give the bathroom a pleasant look. Many people are interested in the answer to the question: how to update the bath in this way?

The advantage of an acrylic bathtub is that it is durable, lightweight, and keeps water warm for a long time.

Benefits of the upgrade

This material has many advantages. completely transforms it: the yellowed bathing tank becomes new, radiant, getting rid of defects. After acrylic surface:

• becomes smooth;
• does not slip;
• is not afraid of mechanical or chemical influence, all kinds of bacteria.

Thanks to acrylic, it becomes resistant to external influences... Updating the bathtub using this method helps to save a decent amount of time and money, since there is no need to dismantle the tiles and the old bathtub. Caring for it is simple and easy, just use the usual gentle means, soap, a soft sponge, and it will shine all the time.

We can say with a high degree of confidence that a bathtub, updated with acrylic, will last at least 15 years, and with proper care - 20. The presence of low thermal conductivity in it allows the water temperature to remain for a longer time.

For example, water in a regular cast iron bath loses 1 ° C in 3 minutes, and in a restored one it takes about 30 minutes to cool down.

Back to the table of contents

Instruments

Before starting to renovate the bath with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools:

• roller;
• brush;
• putty knife;
• soft sponge.

If the restoration is done properly, it is possible that the old bathtub will be more beautiful than the new one.

Back to the table of contents

Preparing for repair

The process should begin by removing the previous coating and preparing the surface.

Necessary:

1. Remove penetrated rust and serious scratches with a drill with a grinding attachment. This work should be carried out in a protective mask, as there will be a lot of dust.
2. If there are only yellowed spots and minor scratches, you just need to clean the surface with sandpaper.
3. Degrease the bath using baking soda. It is applied in the form of a gruel. At the end of the work, wash off with hot water. You can also purchase any degreasing agent at a hardware store: acetone, alcohol, refined gasoline.
4. If there are chips and cracks on the surface of the old bathtub, treat them with instantly drying automotive putty.
5. Dismantle the bottom and top drains. This must be done to prevent acrylic from entering the drain. To do this, put under the bathroom special container... In the event that the bathtub is surrounded by tiles and dismantling is impossible, the drain from the bottom is covered with adhesive tape or tape. Place the bottom of a plastic glass on top, into which acrylic will fall.

The enamel does not lie flat if the bath is cold during restoration with liquid acrylic, so hot water must be drawn into it for 5 minutes, then drained. Dry very quickly using a lint-free cloth. At the end of these works, they begin to update the bath with their own hands.

Back to the table of contents

Bathtub restoration with acrylic paint is carried out in bulk method.

This method is easy and very high quality. Renovating a bath with liquid acrylic can be done with ease from start to finish. After carrying out the above preparatory work the restoration of the bath itself begins. This process is subtle and requires caution and concentration.

It is necessary, strictly following the instructions, to prepare liquid acrylic and start pouring it into the bath. In order for it to have time to flow down and fill the entire surface well, acrylic must be poured slowly, with a gentle stream, in a layer of 4-6 cm. It should drain approximately to the middle of the bath.

Those places of the old bath, where he did not get (this leads to the appearance of gaps), must also be watered, otherwise a defect will appear. Then acrylic is poured into the middle of the bath, it is necessary to move in a spiral.

It should be remembered that the restoration of old bathtubs in this case prohibits the use of special tools (roller or brush). Liquid acrylic will by itself lay down on the surface of the bathtub with the necessary layer and form a fresh layer of enamel excellent quality... It is more economical to upgrade your bathtub in this way than buying a new one. The renovation will require about 3.4 kg of acrylic.

After the completion of the work, the bath is left to dry for 1-4 days.

If you need to make a restoration in a short period, it is recommended to use a quick-drying acrylic. In this case, the bath will be ready for use after 24 hours.

Long-drying acrylic is also on sale. It dries for a longer time (4 days). However, it contributes to the formation of a more durable surface, as a result of which experts advise to give preference to this material. All these recommendations are the answer to the question of how to update the bath with liquid acrylic.