Our grandmothers, growing garden strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, were not particularly worried about mulching. But today this agricultural practice has become fundamental in achieving high quality berries and reducing crop losses. Someone might say that it is troublesome. But practice shows that labor costs in this case are repaid a hundredfold. In this article, we invite you to get acquainted with the nine best materials for mulching garden strawberries.

Succulents are very diverse. Despite the fact that “babies” have always been considered more fashionable, the assortment of succulents that can be used to decorate a modern interior is worth taking a closer look at. After all, colors, sizes, patterning, degree of prickle, influence on the interior are just a few of the parameters by which you can choose them. In this article, we will tell you about the five most fashionable succulents that amazingly transform modern interiors.

Mint was used by the Egyptians as early as 1.5 thousand years BC. It has a strong aroma due to the high content of various essential oils with high volatility. Today mint is used in medicine, perfumery, cosmetology, winemaking, cooking, ornamental gardening, and the confectionery industry. In this article, we will consider the most interesting varieties of mint, and also talk about the features of growing this plant in the open field.

People began to grow crocuses as early as 500 years before the advent of our era. Although the presence of these flowers in the garden is fleeting, we always look forward to the return of the heralds of spring next year. Crocuses are one of the earliest primroses that bloom as soon as the snow melts. However, flowering times may vary depending on species and varieties. This article focuses on the earliest crocus varieties that bloom in late March and early April.

Cabbage soup from early young cabbage on beef broth - hearty, aromatic and easy to prepare. In this recipe, you will learn how to cook a delicious beef broth and cook light cabbage soup in this broth. Early cabbage cooks quickly, so they put it in the pot at the same time as the rest of the vegetables, unlike fall cabbage, which takes a little longer to cook. Ready-made cabbage soup can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. The present cabbage soup is tastier than the freshly cooked one.

Looking at the variety of tomato varieties, it is difficult not to get confused - the choice is very wide today. Even experienced gardeners are sometimes confused by it! However, it is not so difficult to understand the basics of selecting varieties "for yourself". The main thing is to delve into the peculiarities of culture and start experimenting. One of the easiest tomato groups to grow are varieties and hybrids with limited growth. They have always been appreciated by those gardeners who do not have a lot of energy and time to care for the beds.

Once very popular under the name of room nettles, and then forgotten by everyone, Coleus today are one of the brightest garden and indoor plants... They are not in vain considered stars of the first magnitude for those who are looking primarily for non-standard colors. Easy to grow, but not so undemanding as to suit everyone, Coleus require constant monitoring. But if you take care of them, the bushes of velvety unique leaves will easily outshine any competitor.

Salmon ridge baked in Provencal herbs is a "supplier" of tasty pieces of fish pulp for a light salad with fresh leaves of wild garlic. Champignons are lightly fried in olive oil and then watered apple cider vinegar... These mushrooms are tastier than regular pickled mushrooms and are better for baked fish. Ramson and fresh dill get along well in one salad, emphasizing the aroma of each other. The garlic pungency of wild garlic will saturate both the flesh of the salmon and the pieces of mushrooms.

Conifer tree or a shrub on the site is always great, and a lot of conifers are even better. Emerald needles of various shades adorn the garden at any time of the year, and phytoncides and essential oils secreted by plants not only flavor, but also make the air cleaner. As a rule, most of the zoned adult conifers are considered to be very unpretentious trees and shrubs. But young seedlings are much more capricious and require competent care and attention.

Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Picnics in the shade flowering trees have long been an integral part of the meeting of spring in the Land of the Rising Sun. The financial and academic year begins here on April 1, when the magnificent cherry blossoms are in full bloom. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese are marked by their blossoming. But sakura grows well in cooler regions - certain species can be successfully grown even in Siberia.

I am very interested in analyzing how the tastes and addictions of people to certain foods have changed over the centuries. What was once considered tasty and was an object of trade lost its value over time and, conversely, new fruit crops conquered their markets. Quince has been cultivated for over 4 thousand years! And even in the 1st century BC. NS. about 6 varieties of quince were known, and even then methods of its reproduction and cultivation were described.

Delight your family and make themed Easter egg-shaped cottage cheese cookies! Your kids will be happy to take part in the process - they will sift the flour, combine all the necessary ingredients, knead the dough and cut out intricate figures. Then they will watch with admiration how the pieces of dough turn into real Easter eggs, and then they will eat them with the same enthusiasm with milk or tea. How to make such an original cookie for Easter, read our step by step recipe!

There are not so many decorative leafy pets among tuberous crops. And Caladium is a true star among the variegated inhabitants of interiors. Not everyone can decide to start a Caladium. This plant is demanding, and first of all - to care. But still, rumors about the extraordinary capriciousness of the Caladiums never justify. Care and attention will help to avoid any difficulties in growing caladiums. And a plant can almost always forgive small mistakes.

We have prepared a hearty, incredibly appetizing and simply elementary dish for you today. This gravy is one hundred percent universal, as it goes with every side dish: vegetables, pasta, or whatever. Gravy with chicken and mushrooms will save you in moments when there is no time or you don't want to think too much about what to cook. Grab your favorite side dish (you can do it ahead of time to keep everything hot), add the gravy and lunch is ready! A real lifesaver.

Among the many different varieties of these most popular vegetables, we will talk about three that are distinguished by excellent taste and relatively unpretentious conditions cultivation. Characteristics of the varieties of eggplants "Almaz", "Black Beauty" and "Valentina". All eggplants are medium-firm. For Almaz it is greenish, while for the other two it is yellowish-white. They are united by good germination and excellent productivity, but at different times. Skin color and shape are different for everyone.

The category "climbing roses" includes some types of rose hips and varieties garden roses with relatively long shoots, which affects the use in landscape design... Spring planting of a climbing rose is most preferable in middle lane Russia, including the Moscow region and adjacent regions.

Features of cultivation

These plants are ideally combined with almost any type of small architectural forms., they have become indispensable when decorating such landscape elements as columns, pyramids, arched and trellis structures.

V last years climbing roses are actively used for green decoration of walls, balconies and gazebos. As a rule, botanical features and rather high requirements for temperature conditions involve cultivation climbing roses in regions with mild and relatively warm climates.

When grown in soil climatic conditions the middle lane and the Moscow region, regardless of the variety, climbing roses must be removed from the supporting structures and covered on winter period.

The main types of climbing roses

It should be remembered that "climbing" is a feature of the development of shoots, so there is currently no official classification of climbing roses. Nevertheless, so that there is no confusion, in the conditions of home gardening, it is customary to distinguish several varieties:

• Category of climbing roses, or rose ramblers. A feature of Rambler is the presence of long, creeping or arched, rather flexible stems of bright green color. The average length of such a spiked shoot can exceed 4–5 m. The foliage is leathery, relatively small and with a pronounced gloss. Low-scent flowers simple type, can be semi-double or double, gather in inflorescences along the entire length of the shoot. Abundant flowering, but not too long.
• Category of climbing, or climbing, rose-climbers. Climber, or climbing, large-flowered roses, are characterized by abundant flowering. As a rule, the plants are large-flowered, and the inflorescences are of a loose type. Re-flowering is common. The group is distinguished by its relative winter hardiness and is very resistant to powdery mildew.
• Claiming category, or Climbing, is represented by mutating large-flowered bush roses, characterized by stronger growth processes and the formation of very large flowers, located on the plant singly or in small inflorescences. The varieties of this group are very thermophilic and suitable for cultivation in the southern regions.

Regardless of the category and variety, it is very important to choose the right site for planting and growing a climbing rose.

Climbing roses: planting (video)

Seat selection

The area prepared for the cultivation of climbing roses must necessarily meet certain requirements:

• absence of stagnant moisture and cold air masses on the site for planting;
• the presence of sufficient illumination, but without prolonged exposure to the scorching rays of the sun;
• protection from cold northerly or northeasterly winds, as well as drafts;
• the presence of moisture-permeable and well-warmed by the sun soil;
• lack of close occurrence of groundwater;
• the soil on the site should be fertile enough, it is better if it is loamy soil.

Most comfortable conditions for the cultivation of such varieties, roses can be represented only by the southern side of any building. For cultivation, it is enough to select a section of soil that does not exceed 50-60 cm in width. The standard distance from the foundation base to the planting pit should also be approximately 0.5-0.7 m.

Boarding and transfer rules and dates

Planting or transplanting of climbing roses varieties can be done both in spring and in autumn. Most experienced amateur flower growers agree that it is more correct to transplant or plant young plants in open ground in the spring, when the temperature is warm enough and comfortable for a blooming culture.

• before planting young plants, a complete cleaning of the site from weeds should be carried out;
• it is very important to carry out pre-planting soil preparation through deep digging and the introduction of basic fertilizers;
• planting pits should be large enough to freely accommodate the root system of the rose;
• when planting, it is required to deepen the root collar of the plant by about 8-10 cm;
• after planting or transplanting, abundant irrigation measures are carried out, followed by mulching of the near-trunk circles.

In moderate climatic conditions, it is best to plant and transplant roses between the last decade of September and mid-October. It is allowed to plant roses in spring, from about mid-April to the last days of May. As soon as the outdoor temperature reaches 12-14 ° C, you can safely carry out planting work or transplanting an already mature rose bush.

Further care technology

To get a profusely blooming and durable decorative culture, it is required to provide the climbing rose with the most competent and quality care regardless of the stage of plant development:

• fertile loams are the most optimal soil option for growing flower arrangements with climbing roses, and when using a different type of soil, it is imperative to carry out pre-planting sand or manure, and with further care, pay special attention to feeding the flower culture;
• in addition to using organic compounds based on humus and humus for plant feeding, it is useful to use special types soil bacteria, as well as basic phosphorus-containing fertilizers;
• feeding must be accompanied by abundant irrigation with settled or rainwater;

• in order to form a lush and fully flowering bush, it is required to regularly remove all damaged and diseased branches, and old shoots can be cut off only if there are young replacement shoots;
• it is important to remember that two-year-old shoots should not be pruned, and annual branches are removed only if there are traces of degeneration or disease damage to the plant;
• abundant pruning is carried out exclusively in the early spring period, since the event held at a later date will not allow the shoots to ripen before the onset of significant frosts;
• several times per season, preventive treatment of the aboveground part of the ornamental culture is applied.

How to prepare climbing roses for winter (video)

When growing a climbing rose, particular importance is given to the use of supporting structures. Arches or various configurations of the fence can be used as a support for a rose bush. Under the conditions of home gardening, climbing varieties can be grown on pergolas or special support pillars... The choice of a support structure largely depends on the characteristics of the landscape and the personal preferences of the grower.

• Kind: Rosaceae
• Full-bloom Period: June, July
• Height: 5-15m
• Colour: white, cream, yellow, pink, orange, red, burgundy
• Perennial
• Hibernates
• Sun-loving
• Moisture-loving

Summer residents love rose bushes for their lush color and delicate aroma... Small bushes on the porch, flower beds along the path, area near the gazebo or pool - delicate rosebuds can decorate any part of the land. But nothing beats climbing roses - luxurious perennials that can turn even an abandoned shack into a romantic corner. A magical carpet of fragrant flowers is ideal for vertical gardening, but it will be truly beautiful on one condition: if the correct planting and care of the climbing rose is provided. It is these procedures that we are going to talk about today.

Sumptuously flowering plants require special attention, and long lashes with large velvet flowers are no exception. Only technically verified planting, careful feeding, timely pruning, protection of shrubs from pests and winter insulation guarantee a full-fledged result - abundant flowering throughout the warm season.

Choosing a growing place

Roses are very fond of the sun and cannot stand wetlands, so the place of their planting should be well ventilated and illuminated by the sun's rays. Also, plants develop worse if roses have already been planted in the planned place. It is not bad if there is a room nearby that is suitable for winter storage of shrubs.

Lush shrubs are perfect for decorating old buildings, change houses, utility rooms: flowering shoots successfully cover parts of the roof and walls

So that water does not stagnate in the ground, the selected place must have at least minimum slope... Waterlogging can occur due to close-lying groundwater. It should be borne in mind that the length of the roots often reaches two meters, and if there is a risk of high humidity, it is necessary to plant flowers on a hill.

Sometimes rose bushes are planted near the walls of a building for the purpose of decorating them, which threatens to deplete the roots. To prevent this trouble, maintain a distance of 55-60 cm from the wall, as well as at least 50 cm from other plants. The peculiarity of climbing varieties is the presence of a support, the role of which is usually played by walls, arches, pergolas, nets, fences, specially created cones or pillars.

A reliable support for a climbing rose can be built with your own hands from several bars or boards, which are connected in the form of a lattice or a cone

A garden arch for roses can be made with your own hands:

Optimal planting time

In the middle lane with a temperate climate, the best planting period is from the last decade of September to early October. After one to two weeks, the plants give the first roots, which have time to adapt before the onset of severe frosts. With the onset of spring, both the aboveground and root parts begin to actively develop, and by the time of flowering the bush is gaining full strength, not yielding to old plants in splendor.

When setting the planting time of climbing roses, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the variety: for example, "Super Dorothy" blooms quite late, despite the early planting date

If planting is done in spring, the development of flowers will be delayed by about 15 days, and more careful care of such a climbing rose will be required. Before planting in the ground, the seedling must be made 2-3 buds shorter. Novice gardeners do it easier: they buy self-rooted plants in containers in the nursery, and in late spring they place them in the ground.

Initial treatment of seedlings

You should seriously approach the processing of seedlings before planting, otherwise their development will be defective. Preparation includes several manipulations:

• soaking seedlings in water for 1 day (only roots or the whole plant);
• pruning shoots and roots;
• dusting the cut points with charcoal, previously crushed;
• root treatment with a useful mixture.

Pruning climbing roses means shortening several (3-5) strong shoots to a height of 15 cm, weaker shoots must be removed completely. They do the same with the root system: crushed or long shoots are removed, leaving a small bunch. Thanks to this, the development of the plant will be more active, and during the flowering period the rose will give numerous lush buds.

Proper preparation of seedlings is a sure guarantee that the plant will gain maximum strength and at the right time will be covered with exuberant color

Pruned and soaked in fertilizers, the seedlings receive a kind of immunity, thanks to which they quickly develop and bloom in lush color.

One of the options mineral mixture for processing: a little clay, 1/10 part of a mullein, phosphorobacterin (for 10 liters of solution - 2-3 tablets). You can use heteroauxin - just 1 tablet is enough.

Features of soil preparation

The ideal soil for a rose shrub is a loose loamy permeable soil containing a fertile layer. Sand and heavy clay are completely unsuitable for growing flowers, so each of these soil types must be diluted with the opposite. A little lime will make the soil crumbly and chemically more suitable.

If the soil in the area is too acidic, liming is performed:

Heavy fragrant buds bright color- the first sign that the soil for the plant is chosen correctly: it passes water and air well

To increase fertility, humus, humus, phosphorus fertilizers, and special soil bacteria (phosphorobacterin) are added to the soil. At the end of summer, everything is dug up several times, and in the spring, another shovel is performed.

Fossa device: more freedom

The volume of the planting pit should be sufficient so that the young roots of the plant do not experience a lack of free space. The optimum depth is 60-65 cm. The pits must be located at a distance of at least 1 m from one another, only in this case the root system will be able to develop freely. When planting a rose, the root collar is immersed in the soil by about 10-12 cm - thus, it is protected from frost in winter (if additional insulation is available).

When arranging a planting hole, it is necessary to take into account not only its size, but also finding a relative support: nothing should interfere with the development of plant roots

The roots are positioned freely, carefully filling the voids between them. About 5 kg of peat compost or a similar nutrient mixture must be added to each hole. The hole is filled with earth to the level of the ground surface, and then trampled down a little. Further care for climbing roses implies timely fertilization. The first is carried out immediately after landing. For watering, a mixture of phosphobacterin and heteroauxin is excellent, as an option - humates.

To saturate the soil with microelements useful for the plant, it is mulched with humus, compost or humus, which are easy to prepare in the country with your own hands.

If you want to create a rose garden on your site, then use not only curly types of roses in it:

Garter and bush shaping

By directing young shoots, you can give the rose bush exactly the shape that was originally planned. For the formation of more buds and abundant flowering a garter of separate lashes is necessary. Usually climbing species are used for vertical decoration, but this does not mean that all the branches should be directed upward: with this arrangement, the bush will become poorer, and the buds will appear only at the very top.

The way out is simple: several main branches must be placed horizontally, and for this they need to be tied up. Each main lash will give several side shoots growing upward, and most importantly, a whole cloud of lush flowers. This principle is good for decorating walls, high mesh fences, pergolas.

The correct garter of roses ensures the development of shoots in the right direction: along a fence or arch, on top of a plane, around supports of various configurations

An excellent solution for a walking path - a suite of arches designed for decoration with climbing roses and clematis, which have already been planted and will soon grow

Another method of arrangement of shoots is also popular - "fan", when the side shoots freely extend upward and to the sides, without interfering with each other. For braiding a post or arch, a "spiral" is more suitable, when the lashes are twisted around the support. With any arrangement of shoots, you should not neglect the care of climbing roses, and this applies not only to regular pruning, watering and feeding, but also to preparation for frost.

Weak shoots and old lashes are cut off, leaving only 11-12 strong shoots. They are carefully collected in a large bundle, tied, tilted to the ground and secured in this position with the help of pegs. Lastly, they cover them with spruce paws. The base of the shrub should be sprinkled with a mixture of soil and peat, and covered with agrofibre or a thick film on top.

Single rose bushes are covered separately, and nearby growing ones can be insulated with a large piece of agrofibre, covering several bushes at once

The second method resembles the first, but the whips remain tied to the support. It is used in milder climates. The shoots are covered with the same spruce branches, and from above they are hermetically wrapped with foil. High-quality covering material and properly executed insulation guarantee the safety of the rose bush until the spring thaw.

In addition to pruning and sheltering roses, other procedures are needed before wintering:

Only by fulfilling these requirements can one hope for good flowering.

Let's find out in more detail what a climbing rose is. Planting and caring for this wonderful flower in the open field will be discussed in stages in this article. Summer residents and gardeners know that with the help of this type of roses, you can turn even the most modest plot into a beautiful romantic corner.

Climbing rose - description of the type and planting features

The shoots of climbing roses can reach several meters. Any support located in close proximity to the bush is quickly braided by its long and flexible branches. You have probably admired amazingly beautiful flower arches more than once. Floral columns, pyramids, trellises, well-disguised old buildings, part of a wall or roof - any garden structure can be decorated with a luxurious climbing rose. This type of plant is ideal for vertical gardening, but in order for everything to look harmonious and attractive, you should know the rules for planting, pruning, caring for and protecting bushes from pests.

The color scheme of this type of roses is as varied as that of their park or ground cover relatives. Buds range in size from 2.5 to 12 cm in diameter, climbing rose varieties bloom in June and continue to bloom as long as the warm season lasts (approximately 30-170 days, depending on the variety). There are many varieties of climbing roses, but they can all be divided into groups:

• Semi-plaited, whose height reaches 1.5-3 meters.
• Climbing - 3-5 meters.
• Curly - 5-15 meters.

The shoots of these roses are formed continuously, the phases of budding and flowering differ, again, depending on the variety. Among these representatives there are both single-flowering species and re-flowering species.

Climbing rose, photo:

The buds of certain varieties can exude a pronounced aroma that is heard from a distance, some of them smell faintly, subtly and tenderly. This culture will feel great in sunny places with good ventilation. Wetlands are strictly contraindicated for her, as well as sandstones and heavy clay soil... In general, loose loams or fertile soils with good soil permeability are most suitable for this type of roses. If your site is dominated by an unsuitable soil for a climbing rose, then be sure to dilute it with a suitable one. Thus, sand is added to the clay soil, and clay is added to the sandy soil (to a depth of about 30 cm), in addition to this, humus or humus should be added, as well as phosphorus additives.

All land adaptation procedures must be carried out six months before planting roses, or at least 2 months before that. Experienced gardeners it is recommended to plant climbing roses where their brothers did not grow before. If it does not work otherwise, then before planting you need to replace upper layer land (50-70 cm). Ideally, the climbing rose should be planted on a small hill. The root system of these plants goes deep into the soil (up to 2 meters), so you should make sure in advance that at the selected place the groundwater does not pass close to the top layer of the soil.

If you decide to "drape" a part of the house wall with a climbing rose, then the distance between the bush and the wall should be at least 60 cm (and at least half a meter from other plants). Most often, the climbing rose is planted in the last weeks of September or in the first half of October. Thus, before the onset of severe cold snaps, the roots will have time to take root in a new place. With the arrival of spring, all parts of the plant will enter a phase of active development and growth, and by the beginning of summer the rose will bloom in lush color. If a climbing rose is planted in the ground in the spring, then by this time it should warm up to at least +10 ° C, catch the moment when the buds have not yet blossomed - this is important. The second half of April / first weeks of May are the most optimal terms for spring planting.

Planting a climbing rose in the ground in spring

I will make a reservation right away that the rules for spring planting of seedlings are not much different from the autumn ones. All stages described, as well as subsequent care, are applied both in spring and autumn. You should be prepared for the fact that the roses planted in spring will lag slightly in development, require you to pay more attention to your person. Compared to their autumn counterparts, they can delay flowering by about 10 days.

So, before planting, the seedling needs to shorten the branches, up to about 20 cm in length, the roots, too, up to 30 cm. Dig a spacious hole so that the roots have room to grow. The depth of the hole should be 60-70 cm.If you are planting several bushes, then the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing the seedling in the soil, make sure that the root collar is also buried 12-15 cm - this will protect it from frost in the cold season. The roots are carefully straightened, covered with soil, slightly compacted with your hands. Make sure that all the roots are directed downwards and do not bend upwards!

Planting a climbing rose in spring provides for the introduction of nutritious soil into the hole. About 3-5 kg, for example, peat compost, will appeal to your rose. After planting, the soil is trampled down a little and watered abundantly. It will be very good if you add a preparation with beneficial bacteria that stimulates growth, for example, Phosphobacterin, to the water for this first watering. The Heteroauxin phytohormone is also great.

In some cases, summer residents cover plastic wrap freshly planted bushes - this technique contributes to better adaptation of plants in a new place. It is up to you to do it or not, if the weather conditions in your region push you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to raise the film daily and gradually increase the airing time every day. After stable warm weather is established, remove the film and cover the ground around the bushes with leaf humus, peat, chopped bark or straw.

How to plant a climbing rose in the spring, bought in a store?

Today in flower shops you can buy climbing rose seedlings with open or closed root systems.

Representatives with open roots should be immediately planted in the ground. When choosing, pay attention to the presence of lignified shoots - there should be at least two of them. Such a shoot must be ripe (bend with a crunch), otherwise the rose may not withstand wintering. The bush as a whole should look healthy, have well-developed roots, strong, without dried out fragments. The length of the shoots should be at least 60-70 cm.

Climbing roses with a closed root system are sold in pots, so you cannot immediately assess the condition of the roots. Carefully inspect the shoots, they should look healthy, not very elongated, if they have a light green color, then it is better to refrain from buying.

The elongation of the shoots and their light shade indicate improper storage of seedlings - either in excessive heat or in insufficient lighting. Such a rose will be weak, painful, unlikely to survive the winter.

You should also pay close attention to the grafting sites; a properly grafted cutting should have callus tissue at the "joint" site, which promotes fusion. If the graft site is peeling and looks unhealthy, then with such a rose you will only have problems.

Planting a climbing rose from the store in spring, steps:

1. A rose with a closed root system is carefully removed from the pot along with an earthen lump, and then planted in the chosen place. For representatives with an open root system, remove the film from the roots, place them in water. If there are buds or shoots below the grafting site, remove them. If there is wild growth, we also remove it, too long shoots can be pinched. Do not forget to powder the cut points with charcoal or activated charcoal.
2. The roots should be in the water for 3-4 hours, thus, the plant will be saturated with moisture, the transport soil will become soft, it can be easily removed and carefully examined root system... Stimulant "Kornevin" can be added to the water (according to the instructions).
3. We take the roses out of the water, gently straighten the roots as possible and place the seedling in the dug hole. About what the hole should be and how to mix the soil (if the situation requires it), it has already been described a little higher. Water the rose well.
4. After the water is absorbed, you can add more earth (spud). When re-filling the soil, the grafting site can be covered with a layer of soil, but not more than 3 cm.
5. If the spring sun is shining too brightly, do not be too lazy to cover the young bush with a paper bag or a cloth of light shades - so it is guaranteed not to burn out. This protective coating can be left on for 5-7 days.

Climbing roses - care and cultivation

In hot and dry weather, rose bushes should be watered once every five days. After 20 days after planting, you need to carefully shake off the soil from the bush. By the way, roses planted in autumn are also opened after winter in the first weeks of April. For this procedure, it is advisable to choose a non-sunny day, so that later the plant does not experience stress during the night temperature drop. Make sure that the grafting site remains about 10 cm buried in the soil.

During the growing season, the climbing rose requires generous watering. After the buds appear, as well as after the formation of the bush, the plant should be watered every 10 days. At the same time, water should penetrate to the very roots and deeper, 10-12 liters per one bush will be quite enough. A couple of days after rain or watering, you need to loosen the soil around the rose. It can also be mulched. For roses, both waterlogging and lack of moisture are equally harmful, so observe the golden mean in this matter.

Climbing rose, photo:

How to fertilize climbing roses

Fertilizer - important stage in the care of a climbing rose, because this species is quite picky about feeding. Throughout the summer, nitrogen supplements should be alternated with complex fertilizers; it is recommended to apply them every 2-3 weeks. With the onset of spring, the plant is fed with a complex mineral fertilizer, for example - "Agricola-Rose" (according to the instructions). After two or three weeks, you can add organic matter - fertilizer "Ideal" or "Flower". You can also use the old proven method - 10 liters of mullein and 3 kg of wood ash, diluted in 50 liters of water. It is recommended to dilute one liter of this mixture in 10 liters of water, and then water the plant with the resulting composition at the very root. From about the second week of July, you can begin to slowly add phosphorus and potassium supplements in order to prepare the bushes in advance for the coming winter. Carefully read the dosage of drugs in the instructions, remember that by overfeeding the rose with chemistry, you can simply ruin it.

Climbing rose care in the first year

How is it different from standard requirements? The further development and splendor of flowering depends on competent care in the first year of a plant's life. When new shoots appear, the soil is removed from the bushes (the one that was used for hilling). If there are sunny days, then at first, light shading with coniferous spruce branches will not hurt. After 10-12 days after removing the hilling soil, you can start the first pruning of the central shoot. It should be shortened over the second or third sheet. A little later, with the lateral branches of the second order, you need to do a similar procedure, while the eyes "looking" inside the bush must be removed, and those eyes that are located on the outside are left for further correct formation bush.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year also involves removing the buds, as odd as it sounds. From the beginning of flowering until the first weeks of August, it is recommended to leave only two flowers on each branch. With the arrival of autumn, these flowers will turn into boxes with seeds (fruits), and after the performed manipulations, your rose will bloom especially magnificently next year.

Pruning climbing roses or how to prune a climbing rose

Is the climbing rose pruned in the fall for the winter? If other types of roses can be simply spud, then the climbing one must be covered completely - this factor does not depend on your region of residence. You can choose one of the methods of thermal insulation, in the first case, the ground part of the bush is removed from the support, the foliage is removed, and all weak and old shoots are cut off.

Here you have to choose 10-12 of the strongest and healthiest branches (remaining after pruning), combine them into one bundle, rewind with twine and gently tilt them to the ground. With the help of metal brackets (we cut the wire into fragments and bend), the branches are fixed to the ground, and then covered with an appropriate protective material. If there are several shrubs, they are located in close proximity to each other, then they can be covered with one common covering canvas. In the second case, everything happens in a similar way, only in this case the plant is not removed from the support, but is reliably wrapped with protective material directly on it. The base of the bush is spud up as described above.

How to prune a climbing rose? This important agrotechnical maintenance measure needs to be given special attention. Pruning helps to shape the crown of the plant, promotes generous and long-lasting flowering, and has a positive effect on the health and vitality of the climbing rose. Immediately after planting, all shoots are shortened by 20-30 cm, in summer time cut off the faded buds and branches growing inside the crown (thickening it).

From the second year of the plant's life, the branches are pruned at the end of the flowering phase.

How to prune climbing roses after flowering? They fade around the end of August - September (depending on the climate in the region), at this time all diseased and dead branches should be removed. The oldest shoots (choose 1 or 2) are cut off completely, subsequently they will be successfully replaced by young basal shoots. If these processes are not there, then the old branches should be measured about 40 cm from the base, and the rest should be removed - this procedure is aimed at enhancing the growth of replacing basal branches.

The rest (not very old) shoots are cut off in the place where a new powerful growth began to form, subsequently it will act as a conductor. Short peduncle branches are cut to 2 or 3 buds (about 15-17 cm from the base of the branch), weak stems are cut to 3 buds (we also measure from the base). The skeleton (base) of the crown should be formed from the strongest, correctly growing shoots (evenly directed), on which young branches will then form.

How to prune a climbing rose in the spring? You should pick up the pruner when the buds begin to swell on the branches from below (last weeks of April / early May), not earlier. If you start pruning too early, then with night frosts, the branches may simply freeze, as a result of which the rose will bloom much later than the due date. If you miss pruning time, then the plant will throw all its energy into forming new branches and foliage, and flowering will be poor.

Pruning climbing roses in spring has one important point - removal, namely, breaking off (not cutting) wild shoots that have grown below the grafting site. Usually this situation becomes apparent after the spring opening of the bushes. Also at this time, all sick, frozen branches are removed, all affected fragments are clearly visible in the spring, when the buds swell on the “living” branches.

Transplanting a climbing rose to another place

Sometimes, out of inexperience, the gardener chooses an unsuccessful place where the plant feels uncomfortable and sick. In such cases, the situation can be corrected by transplanting. The best time for this operation is autumn, September or the first weeks of October. It is not recommended to transplant later, since the rose needs time to adapt to a new place of residence before the onset of cold weather.

However, if circumstances require it, transplanting a climbing rose to another place in spring is also possible. As soon as the ground thaws after the winter frosts, and the buds on the branches of roses have not yet had time to wake up, you can get down to business. To do this, the ground part of the plant is removed from the support, the bush itself is carefully dug in (moving in a circular manner), about 50-60 cm recede from the base of the plant.Do everything very carefully so as not to damage the root system of the rose, let the hole be deeper than necessary, but the roots will remain intact.

When transplanting, the same rules are followed as with a standard planting - the roots are straightened and directed downward, free place in the pit, it is filled with the appropriate soil mixture, the soil is lightly tamped and generously watered with water.

After 3-4 days, you should fill up the earth (it will settle slightly), spud your rose.

There is one interesting nuance associated with transplanting roses - their belonging to the climber and rambler groups. I will allow myself a small digression: all varieties of climbing roses can be figuratively divided into these two groups:

• climbers;
• ramblers.

Climbing varieties of climbing roses are called climbing, they form rough and thick branches that can reach 3-5 m in length. Climber shoots are not very flexible; when transplanting, they must be cut to half of their entire length!

Rambler are just curly roses with flexible and soft whip shoots, the length of which can reach 10 meters. Rumbler roses are characterized by active growth; when transplanted, they cut off all shoots that are more than two years old. All young branches are left intact, but at the end of the calendar summer they are sure to pinch the tops - this technique accelerates the lignification of the branches.

How to propagate a climbing rose?

There are four ways to propagate this rose: seeds, layers, cuttings and grafting. The most common and convenient option is grafting. Seed propagation is only possible if the seed is purchased at the appropriate store. As you know, self-collected seeds from climbing roses growing in your country house or in the garden do not carry the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

Growing a climbing rose from seeds

Pre-soak the seeds in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes. Such disinfection creates a shield against the appearance of mold in the subsequent stages of plant growth. After we remove the seeds from the solution, put them on a thin layer of cotton wool, again soaked in hydrogen peroxide, cover it on top with a similar cotton layer, which is also saturated with peroxide.

Place the resulting "sandwich" in a plastic bag and hide it in the refrigerator, in the compartment for herbs and vegetables. We periodically inspect the seeds, change the cotton layers to new ones (also saturated with hydrogen peroxide).

After 40-50 days, the already germinated seed can be gently transferred to peat tablets or small plastic cups with the appropriate soil mixture. Seedling cassettes are also fine.

Watering young shoots should be done as the soil dries up. For plants to develop properly, they need to be provided with daily light for 10 hours. If you do everything right, then a couple of months after planting the seeds in tablets or cassettes, the first buds may appear on young roses. With the arrival of spring, new livestock are planted in open ground.

Reproduction of a climbing rose by cuttings

This is the easiest breeding method, almost always giving 100% positive results. For cutting cuttings, already faded or still flowering branches, which are taken from a rose in the very middle of summer, in the 10th of July, are suitable for you.

The cut fragment should have at least two internodes, the place of the lower cut (45º angle) should be located close to the kidney. The upper cut (flat) is carried out at a considerable distance from the kidney.

Further, all the lower leaves are cut off from the cutting, and the upper ones are cut in half. A stalk is placed in a previously prepared container with sand or with a mixture of sand and soil, deepen it by about 1-2 cm, and cover it on top glass jar and put away in a well-lit place.

Now you will need to periodically water the cutting (without removing the can) and make sure that it does not come into direct sunlight.

Reproduction of a climbing rose by layering

In the spring, from the shoots growing from below, we choose the most attractive one and make cuts on it, right under the buds. Next, we make out a small groove-bed about 10 cm wide, put a thin layer of humus on the bottom of the groove, sprinkle it on top with the same layer of soil. Now we carefully bend the shoot, put it in the groove and fix it with metal brackets. After that, we cover the shoot with soil, but leave the top looking out. Then, as usual, we take care of the bush, but do not forget to water and fertilize the place of the buried shoot. After a year, when spring comes, the layers can be cut off from the bush and planted in a separate place as a full-fledged plant.

Propagation of roses by grafting (budding) on ​​rose hips

A climbing rose can be grafted onto a rose hip bush - this technique is often used by gardeners and summer residents. The best time for this operation is the last weeks of July or the first half of August. Before budding, the dog rose should be watered generously with water.

Directly on the root collar of the bush, an incision is made in the bark in the form of the letter "T", after which the edges of the bark are slightly pulled back. This kind of "pocket" holds a peephole cut from a climbing rose. The peephole must be separated from the rose along with the bark and a small piece of wood.

Next, we tightly press the peephole to the neck of the stock and also tightly wrap this place with a special film for budding (freely sold in flower shops). After all the manipulations, the rose hip bush is huddled up, and so that the soil rises 5 cm above the grafting site (this is the minimum). After two to three weeks, the film can be slightly weakened, and with the arrival of a new spring, it is removed for good.

Climbing rose does not bloom - why?

This can also happen, at least on flower forums, gardeners often ask each other a similar question. Experimentally, 7 factors were found out that affect the absence of flowers in climbing roses.

Climbing rose - diseases and pests

Caterpillar of a rose-cut sawfly on a rose
Rose infested with spider mites

On initial stage Aphids can be manually removed from the branches, after putting on garden gloves, but as soon as it feels like a full owner, you will need the help of chemicals. Insecticides "Sharpei", "Aktara", "Inta-Vir", as well as the good old "Karbofos" are guaranteed to help you cope with this problem.

If you want to try the so-called folk methods of struggle, then grate laundry soap (1 tablespoon) and dissolve it in 1 liter of water. Irrigate rose bushes with this solution for a week, then remove all affected fragments - it should help.

A spider mite loves heat and drought, a silvery coating on foliage is a sign of the presence of an intruder. Old methods of struggle with the help of thick tobacco infusion or wormwood broth give very good results. Contact ascaricide "Neoron" is one of the better means protecting roses from spider mites. One ml of the drug is dissolved in a liter of water, after which the bushes are irrigated. Sometimes it is enough to treat roses twice with this preparation for the tick to give up its positions. Bio-insecticide "Fitoverm" also proved to be excellent in this matter.

According to reviews experienced gardeners, the preparation "Aktara" works perfectly against the rose sawfly. The preparations "Aktellik" and "Phosbecid" (15 ml per 10 liters of water) also show a good result, which applies not only to the sawfly, but also to other "lovers" of climbing roses.

In addition to all of the above, I would like to remind you of the spring and autumn spraying of roses with Bordeaux liquid - this is important.

Among the diseases of climbing roses, the most dangerous are: bacterial cancer, gray rot, powdery mildew, coniotirium (burned bark).

Powdery mildew
Bacterial cancer

There is no cure for some diseases (bacterial cancer), but taking prevention seriously will minimize the risk of the disease.

Disinfection of the root system in a solution of 3% copper sulfate(before planting), removal of suspicious fragments and rapid irrigation of wounds with the same copper sulfate are the most often recommended preventive measures.

The defeat of the coniotirium can be detected in the spring, as soon as the protective cover is removed from the roses. In this case, you need to immediately cut off diseased branches (with the capture of healthy fragments) and burn them. Until the buds awaken, the plant can be treated with three percent iron sulfate, the ground around the bush must be watered too. The same Bordeaux liquid or the drug "Abiga-Peak" can also participate in the case while the buds have not yet blossomed.

In principle, to combat other diseases of roses, the usual scheme works - the removal of the affected areas and their subsequent burning, abundant irrigation of the plant with a solution ferrous sulfate(3%), copper sulfate (2%) or Bordeaux liquid (3%). Such spraying is often carried out in three stages (at weekly intervals), but sometimes, especially at an early stage, one treatment may be enough.

Climbing roses - photos and names of winter-hardy varieties

The dream of any gardener is that your favorite flowers delight the eyes with lush buds for as long as possible and endure wintering staunchly. It is simply unrealistic to mention all winter-hardy and long-blooming varieties of climbing roses, but I would like to highlight some of them, briefly describe their main qualities.

Climbing rose "Iceberg"

It fully lives up to its name, its snow-white buds will bloom for a very long time (until autumn) and profusely. Re-flowering - distinctive feature of this rose, it grows quite quickly and in the shortest possible time can braid an arch or a wall of a building. The plant is unpretentious, cold-resistant, the aroma is weak.

Variety "Iceberg", photo:

Climbing rose "Lavinia"

It boasts cup-shaped flowers of a deep pink hue, undemanding to care, re-blooming, aroma with light Muscat notes. It grows up to 3 m in height, has good immunity to most rose diseases, blooms continuously until the first frost.

Variety "Lavinia", photo:

Variety "Polka"

It is characterized by undulating blooms, approximately five waves per summer. Terry buds, apricot shade, gradually turning into a creamy color. Loves sunlit places very much, has good disease resistance, can grow up to 3 m in height. This variety has powerful and spreading shoots with large thorns, a weak aroma.

Photo of a climbing rose of the "Polka" variety:

Climbing rose "Don Juan"

Luxurious double rose with large (12 cm in diameter) flowers of deep red color. Represents great option for decorating the walls of buildings and any vertical supports. It grows up to 3.5 m in height, loves the sun, but also blooms in partial shade without problems. These roses can be cut to make bouquets, they are very fragrant and keep fresh for a long time.

Variety "Don Juan", photo:

Variety "Flamentants"

This rose is considered one of the most attractive red climbing roses. Her buds are large (8 cm in diameter), double, multi-petal. Possesses increased frost resistance, powerful bushes can reach 2-3 m in height. With proper care, this variety can grow and bloom in one place for about 20 years. The aroma of the rose is very delicate, but not very pronounced.

Photo of roses "Flamement":

Climbing rose "Handel"

The buds of this variety have a very interesting color - white-pink, with bright crimson edges and a slightly yellowish center. The buds are large, about 10 cm in diameter, the bush grows to 2.5-3 m in height. The rose is multi-blooming, disease resistance is average, one should beware of black spot and ash.

Variety "Handel", photo:

Variety "Bobby James"

Small-flowered representative, but the most attractive in its category. Can reach 8 m in height, resistant to disease, semi-double white flowers with a yellow center (about 4.5 cm in diameter), outwardly resemble cherry flowers. It has a pronounced musky aroma; during flowering, the branches are simply covered with buds, so that behind them you can hardly see the foliage. The buds themselves have the ability to slowly open over about 10-12 days. A spectacular and incredibly luxurious variety

Photo of a rose variety "Bobby James":

Climbing rose "Golden Perfume"

A re-flowering variety whose flowers bloom slowly, to the delight of gardeners. Large buds (up to 10 cm in diameter) of this rose exude a very strong aroma that can be heard even from afar. Flowers of a rich bright yellow hue will adorn the bush until the arrival of the first frost. Shoots grow up to 2-3 m in height, foliage also looks very attractive - rich green, dense, creating a beautiful contrast with yellow flowers.

Variety "Golden Perfume", photo:

Variety "Parade"

One of the most winter-hardy re-flowering climbing roses, with large (10 cm in diameter) multi-petal buds of a juicy cherry shade or rich dark pink. Luxurious inflorescences are so large and heavy that the shoots literally bend from their weight. It blooms throughout the summer, blooms slowly, reaches 2-3.5 m in height, resistant to precipitation.

Roses of the "Parade" variety, photo:

Climbing rose "Schwanensee"

Another variety with increased cold resistance. The multi-petal buds of this rose have a classic shape, medium size (7-9 cm in diameter) and a very delicate color - white, with a creamy pink heart. The Schwannensee blooms until the very frost, slowly blooming and spreading a delicate refined aroma. The variety is hardy, multi-flowering, rain-resistant. The bush can grow up to 3 m in height.

Variety "Schwannensee", photo:

Variety "Casino"

This rose is suitable for cutting into a bouquet, has a bright fruity aroma, lemon-colored buds are most beautiful when loose. A multi-petal variety, the diameter of a double flower reaches 9-11 cm, its color is darker inside, the outer petals are paler. The bush grows up to 3-4 m in height, blooms profusely, luxuriantly, repeatedly throughout the summer.

Climbing rose of the "Casino" variety, photo:

Of course, a climbing rose will require an investment of time and effort from you, but you must admit that its luxurious beauty fully justifies such "sacrifices." Follow all the above recommendations, carefully consider the choice of a place of residence for a rose.

Do not plant it near bushes and trees with powerful roots, do not forget to feed it with appropriate fertilizers in time.

Provide her with reliable support, the types of which I will tell you about in the next article.

Let a climbing rose also settle on your site. Planting and care in open ground, the nuances of reproduction and transplanting, a rough idea of ​​individual varieties - you now know all this and you can apply my advice in practice.

The following videos will successfully complement the article:

Climbing roses are roses with long, creeping or drooping shoots, for the growth of which support is absolutely necessary. Among them there are roses that bloom once a year, as well as remontant ones, that is, they bloom many times.

Climbing roses have shoots that are several meters long. Flowers are white, pink, red, yellow from 2.5 to 9 cm, from simple to semi-double, odorless, collected in inflorescences. Long-lasting flowering begins in June.

When describing climbing roses, it should be noted that they occupy one of the leading places in vertical gardening, go well with small architectural forms, are indispensable for the creation of decorative columns, pyramids, arches, trellises, green decoration of the walls of buildings, balconies, gazebos.

There are many varieties of climbing roses, the description of which will take a lot of time and space. However, by the nature of growth, these roses can be conditionally divided into three groups:

Curly - from 5 m to 15 m in height.

Climbing heights - from 3 m. To 5 m.

Semi-plaited in height - from 1.5 m - 3 m.

The formation of shoots in climbing roses is continuous, due to which the phases of flowering and budding are very extended. The total flowering time is from 30 to 170 days. Among the re-blooming roses, a group of large-flowered, or Climings, stands out for decorativeness.

Growing climbing roses

Choosing a place for planting and growing climbing roses. For cultivation, you need to choose sunny and ventilated places. Roses are light-loving plants, so it is best to plant them on the walls and supports of the southern and southwestern exposure. Preference should still be given to the southern exposure; good illumination helps the growth to ripen, which will bloom next year.

Groundwater should be no higher than 70-100 cm, optimally 100-150 cm. In swampy, damp places prone to flooding, climbing roses will not work.

When choosing a place to plant, be sure to think about how you will lay climbing roses for shelter for the winter. Climbing roses grow to a height of more than 2.5 m. When laying climbing roses for the winter, they should not "cover" other plants that do not require shelter.

What kind of soil should be.

To grow climbing roses, a fertile, loose, moderately moist soil with a fertile layer of at least 30 cm is required.And so, in the place of the future rose garden, it is necessary to prepare the soil: for this purpose it is better to use rotted manure (cow), if the soil is too heavy, you need to add sand, peat, which will give the soil looseness.

Selection of seedlings.

The seedling should have 2-3 well-ripened lignified shoots with green intact bark and a developed root system with many thin roots (lobe). The root collar of a seedling at the age of 1-2 years looks like a slight thickening separating the wild stock and the stem of the cultivated plant.

Planting climbing roses

When is the best time to plant roses. In central Russia, it is preferable to plant roses in the fall from September to the end of October, or in early spring from mid-April to late May. In autumn, plants must be planted 2 cm deeper than in spring (total depth 5 cm), so that the shoots of the planted roses do not dry out and do not suffer from the approaching cold weather, they are spudded with earth with sand to a height of 20-25 cm. subzero temperatures roses cover for the winter.

Preparing climbing roses for planting.

Seedlings with an open root system per day beforee planting is soaked in water. Leaves are removed from the shoots and unripe and broken shoots are cut out with a sharp secateurs. The aerial part is shortened to 30 cm, long roots - up to 30 cm, cutting out rotten roots to a healthy place. The buds located below the vaccination site are removed - wild growth will develop from them. The seedlings are disinfected by dipping copper sulfate in 3%.

Planting pits are prepared with a size of 50x50 cm, the distance between plants should be at least 2 - 3 meters. When planting, do not bend the roots of the plants too much. They are supposed to be freely spread out in the hole so that they go to the bottom without bending upwards, while holding the seedlings at such a height that the grafting site is about 10 cm below the soil surface. (Other varieties of roses are deepened 5 cm when planting, but climbing roses are planted deeper.)

Then the hole is filled with earth two-thirds of the depth, it is compacted so that it fits properly to the roots and the plant is watered. Thorough watering in the spring is especially important. Only after the water has been absorbed, the pit is filled up with earth, and the seedling is spud up to a height of at least 20 cm.

Before the onset of frost, the hilling level is raised. In the spring, this sprinkled earth will protect the plant from the scorching rays of the sun and drying winds. For greater reliability, the seedling can be slightly shaded with needles. In dry weather it is watered every 5-6 days. Three weeks after the spring planting, the earth is carefully raked away from the bush. It is advisable to do this on a cloudy day, when there is no danger of a sharp drop in temperature at night.

In early April, autumn roses are opened and treated in the same way. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the most sensitive spot of the entire plant, the grafting site, remains 10 cm below ground level. In the spring new shoots will grow over it.

If the climbing rose grows against the wall, then the distance to it should not be less than 50 cm. The plant is brought up to the wall with an inclined planting at an appropriate angle. If the rose was grown against the wall itself, it would constantly suffer from a lack of moisture.

When late spring planting carried out in dry warm weather, it is useful to cover the soil with a layer of wet peat or any other mulch. After planting, the shoots are cut into 3 - 5 buds.

Climbing rose care

How to care for climbing (climbing) roses? Caring for climbing roses consists in proper watering, timely feeding, pruning, combating diseases and pests, as well as loosening and mulching the soil. In addition, climbing roses must be provided with beautiful supports and covered for the winter.

In response to such care and careful care, these beauties will certainly thank you with magnificent flowering throughout most of the summer.

How to water climbing roses?

NS good care of plants is first of all correct watering... Roses consume a lot of water during the growing season. In the absence of precipitation from the moment the buds appear, as well as after pruning, the plants are watered every 10-12 days.

When watering, the soil must be soaked so that moisture penetrates deeper than the roots (1-2 buckets per plant). On the 2-3rd day after watering (or rain), the soil around the plant must be loosened to a depth of 5-6 cm, which contributes to the preservation of moisture in the soil and better air access to the roots. Loosening can be replaced by soil mulching.

The lack of moisture in the soil affects the growth of roses, and the concentration of salts from the substrate also increases. But it must be remembered that too frequent watering with a hose raises the humidity of the air, and this contributes to the spread of fungal diseases.

Fertilizing climbing roses.

To ensure proper plant care, it is imperative to fertilize the soil. Climbing roses need regular feeding more than others. Throughout the summer, they need to be fed after 10 - 20 days, alternating nitrogen fertilizers with full, complex ones. Fertilizers can be either dry or liquid.

First of all, in the spring they spend liquid top dressing complete mineral fertilizer (according to the instructions). After 10 - 20 days, feed the plants with organic matter (1 bucket of mullein for 5 buckets of water + 3 kg. Ash) 1 liter of this mixture is diluted in a bucket of water and the roses are watered at the root. Such an operation will ensure an abundant start of flowering with brightly colored flowers.

Such feeding, alternating with each other, must be done until mid-summer. From mid-July, they stop feeding nitrogen fertilizers and switch to phosphorus and potash, so that the bush has already started preparing for winter.

For any feeding, the dosage must be strictly observed! With an overabundance of any chemical elements, the condition of the roses may deteriorate. Such care will only harm the plants.

Pruning climbing roses

Pruning is very important in the care of climbing roses.

The main purpose of pruning is to form a crown, obtain abundant and long-lasting flowering, and maintain plants in a healthy state.

At good care have roses for summer period long shoots grow, up to 2-3.5 m. They are covered for the winter. In the spring of next year, only the frozen and podoprevshie shoots and the ends of the shoots are pruned on a strong external bud.

In the future, the pruning of climbing roses is carried out, depending on how these roses bloom, once or twice. These groups of roses differ significantly in the nature of flowering and shoots.

The former form flowering branches on last year's shoots. They do not bloom again. In replacement of faded shoots, the so-called basic (basal), these roses form from 3 to 10 shoots of restoration (replacement), which will bloom for the next season. In this case, the basal shoots after flowering are cut to the base, like in raspberries. Thus, bushes of once-flowering climbing roses should only consist of 3-5 annual and 3-5 biennial flowering shoots.

If climbing roses belong to the group of re-flowering, then flowering branches of different orders (from 2 to 5) are formed on the main shoots within three years, the flowering of such shoots weakens by the fifth year. Therefore, the main shoots are cut after the fourth year to the base. If many new strong recovery shoots are formed at the base of these shoots (which usually happens when the roses are well tended), then the main shoots are cut out as in the first group.

For bushes with repeated flowering, it is sufficient to have 1 to 3 annual recovery shoots and 3 to 7 flowering main shoots. Re-blooming roses are recommended to be pruned in early spring. The point of pruning is to leave a limited number of the strongest, youngest and longest branches on the bush. If the lashes are too long compared to the support, they must be trimmed.

It is important to remember that most climbing roses bloom on overwintered shoots, which must be preserved for their entire length, remove only the very tops with underdeveloped buds. Therefore, in the fall, such roses should not be pruned, the main pruning is carried out in early spring.

Proper pruning and careful maintenance can provide nearly continuous flowering roses in your garden.

Reproduction of climbing roses

Climbing roses reproduce well in summer and winter cuttings... Most easy way- this is a green cuttings, most climbing roses give almost 100% rooting. Green propagation works best in June, during the first flowering.

Cuttings are cut from flowering or fading shoots with 2 - 3 internodes. The lower end is made oblique (at an angle of 45 °) directly under the kidney, and the upper end is made straight away from the kidney. The lower leaves are completely removed, and the rest are cut in half. The cuttings are planted in a substrate (in a mixture of earth and sand or in clean sand) in a pot, box or directly into the ground to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. The cuttings are covered with a glass jar or film and shaded from the sun. Watering is carried out without removing the film.

Good results are obtained by cuttings in early spring. During spring pruning climbing roses, there are many cut shoots that can be successfully rooted. Planting and caring for cuttings is carried out according to the above method.

Shelter climbing roses for the winter

Shelter climbing roses for the winter has its own characteristics. If, to shelter roses of other varieties, it is enough to sprinkle the bush with earth (it is important to keep shoots 10 - 15 cm high there), then it is necessary to keep the shoots of wicker roses - whips completely.

Caring for roses in the fall. Preparation of roses for winter begins long before the onset of frost. Already at the end of August, it is necessary to stop watering and loosening the soil. At this time, it is no longer possible to feed the plants with nitrogen, but it is necessary to make potassium fertilizers to strengthen the tissue of the shoots.

Be prepared for the fact that the climbing rose shelter for the winter can stretch for several days, or even a whole week. A rose with thick, powerful shoots is unlikely to be laid on the ground in one day. This should be done at a positive temperature; in frost, the stems become fragile and break easily. In no case try to press each shoot separately to the ground. This can only be done by tying the entire bush into a bundle or two bundles and then spreading them in different directions.

If, when you tilt the bush, you feel that the stems may break, stop tilting and fix the bush in this position. Let him stand like this for a day or two, and then continue until you press him to the ground.

It is necessary to cover the rose pinned to the ground with the onset of frost. Sometimes it has to be done even in the snow. Lutrasil cover is sufficient in the southern regions. Do not forget to cover only the base of the bush with sand or earth. If your winters are cold, cover the bush with spruce branches and also cover it in several layers with covering material or roofing material.

Supports for climbing roses

The possibilities to beautifully decorate your garden with climbing roses are quite diverse: you can often see beautiful gazebos and terraces, balconies, grottoes and pavilions, arches and pergolas decorated with roses, and even how climbing roses transform the faceless walls of buildings, and no need to say.

The freestanding lattices, as independent garden structures, are supported by pillars dug into the ground. Roses at such supports are planted at a distance of about 30 cm from the trellis and abundantly flowering varieties are chosen.

Simple and at the same time original support from metal rods.

Support gratings can be made from materials at hand: wooden planks, metal rods, and even thick fishing line.