Growing grape cuttings at home is a laborious and energy-intensive business, but, at the same time, not difficult to understand and master. Therefore, if the need arose, feel free to study our site and start!

Many professional and amateur gardeners who grow grape bushes do not breed seedlings on their own, but almost any grower at least once in his life wondered how to germinate grapes from a cuttings. First, it is good experience in the piggy bank of knowledge, and, secondly, a good way to make money.

Pros and cons of growing grapes from cuttings

As with any action and method, there are pros and cons.

* The most important plus why growers prefer to propagate the grape garden by cuttings is that they are less likely to introduce pests and diseases into the vineyard.

* Often, growers buy seedlings from other cities or regions, and transportation, in the case of cuttings, does not cause much trouble. Also, storing them until the planting season is not difficult.

* Another significant plus: the cost of the cuttings is not high, in comparison with seedlings ready for planting.

But there are also disadvantages that are like a fly in the ointment.

- First, the rooting rate is weak in comparison with the seedlings. But, nevertheless, with proper care, a good percentage of seedlings yield is obtained.

Fruiting will not be soon, at least 2-3 years will pass.

The method is good, widespread and, definitely, for people who love all the processes of viticulture, and not just use delicious berries! In any case, each winegrower determines his own way of growing grapes for himself.

Harvesting grape cuttings

Cuttings of grapes (shanks), which are used for further cultivation of the vineyard, are harvested in the fall, after the leaves have fallen off. They are taken from an exceptionally healthy, well-tolerant of weather conditions, resistant to diseases and pests, stably fruiting bush. It is better to approach the choice in advance, checking it for all indicators, and mark it so as not to lose it.

How to choose a good vine for your harvesting? After the best and most productive bushes have been identified, you need to choose a vine. The main thing is that it must be well matured. How can I check this? The bark of such a vine is of a ripe color, i.e. light brown or dark green, uniform along the entire length. Crackles when broken. There is a way to test the maturity of a vine by a reaction to iodine. In a ripe cutting, the cut will turn dark, from dark purple to black, and underdeveloped - green. A one-time flowering and fruiting vine is selected, and a stalk is cut from the middle or lower zone.

Of all the harvested vines, crooked, uneven, with irregular internodes, as well as damaged ones are rejected. Rest, good samples, on the same day are formed for storage. For this, mustaches, leaves, stepsons are cut off. All shanks are grouped by grade and must be marked.

Storage of grape cuttings

In order for the cuttings to survive and be suitable for growing, you need to properly organize their storage. There are several ways:

• Cool place. Ideally a basement.

Depending on the humidity in late summer and autumn, cuttings are soaked. If there was a drought, then hold it in water for 1 to 3 days. If there was high humidity, then this procedure is optional. They are processed with a 5% solution of copper sulfate. Then they are packed in plastic bags and they are placed in a cool dry place. The good thing about this method is that moisture, mold, and fogging can be controlled during the winter.

• Fridge.

Having previously soaked in water and treated with a 5% solution of copper sulfate, they are tightly packed in foil or polyethylene and put away on the lower shelf of the refrigerator.

• In the ground.

Chubuki are soaked in water, processed. In a non-flooded place, as well as where there is no groundwater, a trench about 50-60 cm deep is dug, cuttings are placed there for storage. From above, the ground is covered, as if covering a vineyard.

Methods for rooting grape cuttings

Starting at the end of winter (usually mid-February), preparation for rooting begins. For this, the vines are placed in water for one, maximum two days. For poorly germinated varieties, furrowing can be carried out. This is a trick for a faster and better way out roots. For this, grooves are applied on the lower part of the shank to a depth of up to the green part. Not all varieties require this treatment, but some growers do. This completes the main stages of preparation for rooting. The next step will be rooting itself. Each grape breeder has his own method, which is the most convenient for him. Here are some of the main ones:

• Kilchevanie. A method that creates a different temperature for the roots and the top of the same plant. It is used mainly for production scales, but it is also often found in home versions. The essence of the method is cultivation in special bases (a special hydrogel, foam rubber, cotton wool, wet sawdust, etc. are suitable) in conditions when the upper part is at a low temperature, and the eyes are still sleeping, and the roots are in a warmer one, and are already developing.
• Germination in water. The most suitable method for rooting grapes at home. Cuttings are placed in a container with water and placed in a warm place. Some growers create special greenhouses.

As you can see, growing grapes from shanks (cuttings) is not the most difficult process, but interesting in terms of observing it. The method is very common and is suitable for growing a wide variety of grape varieties.

How to plant grapes correctly: tips and practical ...

Rules for growing grapes - choice of variety, location, ...

Cuttings - convenient way creating a rich vineyard. To achieve results, you need to study how to plant grapes with cuttings in the fall, to understand the features of harvesting (storage) planting material, as well as know the rules for rooting cuttings and caring for grapes planted in autumn.

The grapes are cut in spring or autumn. The autumn cultivation of the culture by cuttings is considered optimal, since the planting material harvested before the onset of frost is resistant to the effects of wind, frost, and the absence of the sun.

Reproduction of grapes by cuttings in autumn is suitable for gardeners living in southern regions where there are no severe frosty winters.

Planting material is harvested during grape pruning. The grower selects healthy, fruiting plants that are at least three years old. The selected vine is examined to make sure that it is not affected by diseases.

The gardener is waiting for the leaves to fall, and after 2 weeks (not earlier) start pruning. Cuttings are selected according to the following criteria:

• the diameter does not exceed 6 millimeters, otherwise the shank will not take root;
• taken from a fruiting bush with an age of three years;
• the planting material is hard, emitting a crackle when bent;
• the vine is uniform brown;
• the cut of the shank has a uniform green color, and dark blotches signal a disease of the culture;
• bark of a shrub without cracking, hard outgrowths and other defects of roots and leaves.

Cutting off the cuttings with a sharp knife, you need to try to ensure that the length of each specimen exceeds 30 centimeters. The shanks should be cut off carefully, being careful not to damage the bark.

Cuttings need to be harvested for future use, because even if all the rules for storing and building up the root system are observed, up to 50% of the harvested planting material will not take root or dry out.

Preparing cuttings for further planting

Each stalk is cleaned from the remnants of leaves and whiskers. Chubuki several pieces are sorted by grade. Before planting in the soil, the cuttings are placed in a container with water so that the liquid covers 4 centimeters of each shank. Containers with planting material are placed in a room where room temperature is maintained.

If planting grapes is planned after a few days, then the planting material is carefully wrapped with a damp cloth. When storing grape cuttings, it is important to create conditions under which the planting material does not lose moisture.

A stalk that loses about 20% of water is unusable. It will not be possible to restore the planting material with a significant loss of moisture even with prolonged soaking. To avoid spoilage of the planting material, it must be prepared for storage after collection, without wasting time, since the stalk loses 2% of water in 1 day.

Storing cuttings

There are other methods of storing cuttings, and they do not depend on the season they are planted in the soil.

How to store shanks:

1. Cellar: choose a container in which you can freely put the cuttings. Then the planting material is added dropwise with moistened sand. In this state, the shanks can be stored for several weeks.
2. Garden - choose a site on an elevation, located away from sources groundwater... Coarse sand is poured into the bottom of the trench with a layer of at least 10 centimeters. Cuttings are laid on it, filling them with a forty-centimeter layer of soil. This method is more suitable if the planting material is stored until spring.
3. Refrigerator door - before placing the cuttings in the refrigerator, they must be soaked for two days in cold water and then wrap with plastic.

As soon as roots 2-5 centimeters long appear at the ends of each cutting, they can be planted in the soil. In order for planting cuttings in the fall to bring the desired results, you need:

• take care of the quality of the soil;
• choose the right site for the future vineyard;
• dig trenches correctly.

After planting grapes, the gardener needs to take care of protecting future plants from frost that will come in winter.

Soil and site selection

The choice of soil and site for planting cuttings in the fall is taken care of at the end of summer, before the collection of planting material. Grapes are a plant that needs a fertile soil of moderate moisture. So, table grape varieties need a sufficient amount of humus. The soil, rich in humus, is located at the foot of the hills and near sources of groundwater (they should lie at a depth of three meters).

Stony, sandy soil and black soil - a suitable substrate for growing a vineyard. If the soil on the site is viscous and heavy, then its composition can be normalized. To do this, take sand, silt, ripe manure and brick chips, after which the mixture is introduced into the soil. If the soil is salty, it is watered abundantly several weeks before planting the grapes.

Choosing the right site is a mandatory step autumn planting grapes. To prevent infection of young vines with bacterial cancer, cuttings should not be planted in the place of an old uprooted vineyard affected by this disease. After harvesting infected plants, at least 3 years must pass.

Poorly ventilated areas, aisles of trees, depressions in which the cold stagnates are not suitable for growing grapes in autumn. The plant grows well on well-ventilated elephants located on the south side of the site. Grapes should not be planted near plants that require frequent watering, as excessive soil moisture can provoke rotting of the root system.

If the gardener plants both frost-resistant and thermophilic varieties at the same time, then each is allocated a separate area, since the thermophilic grapes will need to be insulated with the onset of frost.

Planting culture in autumn in stages

Planting a future vineyard in the fall on open area- a simpler procedure when compared to spring planting. After harvesting the cuttings on each of them, it is necessary to make an oblique cut at the end.

First, the gardener prepares the trenches. Their depth should be 30 centimeters, width - also 30 centimeters, but no more. Evenly, a layer of humus is spread on the bottom of the trench - 1 bucket of fertilizer per 1 meter of the trench. Each shank is planted at an inclination of 45 degrees, but so that several eyes remain above the surface. A distance of 20 centimeters is maintained between the cuttings. If another trench is needed, then it is dug 40 centimeters from the previous one.

You can plant cuttings in the holes. In the pre-fertilized soil, holes are made 50 centimeters deep. Each stalk is placed in the hole at an angle of 45 degrees, but so that several eyes remain above the ground. If the stem is planted at an angle, then the length of its roots should not exceed 10 centimeters.

Each shank is buried in a substrate and the soil is compacted. Then the future grapes are watered. When the soil has absorbed moisture, the cuttings can be spud. Before the onset of frost, cuttings should be watered regularly.

Warming

Grapes planted in autumn needs to be insulated, otherwise he will die at the first frost. There are two ways to protect the shanks from frost and wind - with straw or a structure resembling a greenhouse.

To insulate the cuttings with straw at the end of autumn, you need to dig in the root zone with soil so that the height of the embankments is 40 centimeters. After they are covered with burlap and several layers of straw (foliage). In the spring natural insulation removed.

Warming grapes with a greenhouse is a more laborious process that requires a film, metal rods and wire. The gardener builds an arch with a height of 50 centimeters over the cuttings, after which he covers it with foil. In a makeshift greenhouse, the seedlings remain until the frost has passed. In early spring, when the temperature is above zero, the greenhouse is opened periodically to provide air access.

You can also insulate the cuttings with plastic bottles without a neck. Cover each stalk with a prepared container, then water the soil abundantly around the bottle using 2-3 buckets of water. The soil around the bottle is loosened and covered with abundant straw or pine needles. In this state, grapes planted in autumn are stored until spring.

Care rules

In spite of simple scheme, the method of planting grapes in the fall has a significant drawback: by the spring, up to 60% of the seedlings survive. Therefore, 2 cuttings are planted in one hole at the same time. If both plants are accepted, then in the spring they leave a strong specimen of grapes, removing a weak one from the soil, since it can interfere with the growth of a full-fledged plant.

The adopted plants are regularly watered and fed. Young grapes are regularly checked for signs of typical diseases of the culture - bacterial cancer, mildew, gray rot, apoplexy and others.

So that the grapes have a powerful root system, providing active growth and fruiting, in the summer, the cutting should be deepened 20 centimeters into the soil. To do this, the seedling is dug up and several root shoots are removed, after which the plant is again planted in the ground.

Grapes bear fruit in the third or fourth year after planting in the ground, if the gardener regularly waters the plants, removes weeds in a timely manner and applies fertilizers to the soil and mulches it (puts dry manure on the surface of the soil). Fruiting in the first year weakens the culture, so the gardener must cut off the first ripening bunches of the plant, preventing the berries from ripening in the first year.

Breeding grapes with shanks in the fall according to the rules increases the likelihood of obtaining full-fledged seedlings for growing a fruitful vineyard.

Several years ago, I rooted the first grape cuttings to obtain beautiful shadow over the gazebo on our site. The business turned out to be so exciting and grateful that now in my vineyard there are all the varieties that the family loves.

Propagation of grapes by cuttings is an opportunity to get a full-fledged plant and save money. This method of reproduction is based on the ability of the plant to develop from a cut shoot, while maintaining all varietal properties.

To get a viable bush at home, you need to start with the preparation of cuttings (shanks). Cutting is carried out late autumn: from mid-November to mid-December.

By this time, the vine has accumulated a maximum nutrients and ready for winter period rest, but frost has not yet come. For harvesting future seedlings, a fruit branch is chosen, each stem should have four buds.

The suitability of the vine for cutting shanks is determined by the following criteria:

• thickness is about 8 mm;
• Brown color;
• firm to the touch;
• when bending, an elastic crackle is heard;
• the presence of a tail left after fruiting.

The upper cut is made obliquely, away from the eye, two centimeters from the kidney. The lower part is cut straight, under the kidney itself. The formation of roots can be accelerated by 2-3 shallow longitudinal cuts made with a knife in the lower part of the cutting.

Processing shafts before storage

Sliced ​​shanks need to be grouped by grade, loosely connected and attached with a label with the name. It's good when in seedlings enough level natural moisture. It is recommended to increase it by placing the shanks in water, or in ready-made bundles.

Treatment with a solution of copper sulfate (5%) will help to strengthen the resistance of the planting material to the fungus. The processed bundle is lightly dried and packed in natural fabric and polyethylene for storage.

Winter storage of material

The end of December, January and the beginning of February are storage times, when the bundles are periodically examined and turned over. The ideal storage temperature is 0 to 5 degrees. Residents of the private sector can save breeding material in the basement, while in the apartment the shanks will have to allocate part of the refrigerator.

Preparing cuttings for rooting

In the first decade of February, a control examination of the material is carried out and the seedlings that have survived the winter best are selected. The parts of the vine that have retained their elasticity and natural moisture are considered ideal.

Brittle and dry cuttings died from lack of moisture, soft, oozing shanks are also not suitable, they rotted from waterlogging, insufficient ventilation.

When cuttings suitable for propagation have been selected, they need to be brought out of dormancy with the help of warm water. For two days, the shanks are soaked at room temperature, changing the water to fresh water once a day.

The next step is to stimulate root development. To do this, place the bottom of each twig in a stimulant solution.

Placement in containers and care

Cut plastic bottles can serve as a container for the nutrient medium. Drainage holes are pierced in their bottom, then the first layer is laid - a mixture of sand and humus.

The next layer is washed sand. Cuttings are placed in it, watered and a greenhouse is made, covering the container with the seedling with another cut-off bottle or plastic glass. There should be one or two buds above the surface of the sand.

Seedling care consists in regular, moderate watering to maintain moisture inside the greenhouse. With the appearance of 4 leaves, the lid can be removed, continue watering and provide the rooted seedling good lighting during daylight hours.

When the leaves appeared:

• containers with seedlings must be taken out to Fresh air for hardening and optimal illumination during daylight hours; but it is important not to allow sunburn on tender greenery;
• it is necessary to feed young plants with mineral fertilizers several times.

During walks, the temperature indoors and outdoors should not be contrasting.

Landing in the ground

When a steady heat comes, the rooted cutting can be planted in the ground. In different regions, this is the end of spring or the first decade of summer. It is good when the planting site is prepared in autumn or at the very beginning of spring. But this is what experienced growers do, confident that by the summer they will have the planned number of seedlings.

Those who are just comprehending the fascinating process of grafting can prepare the pits when they are convinced that the shanks have successfully rooted.

The landing site is deepened by 50 cm, a drainage layer of 25 cm of gravel or crushed stone is poured onto the bottom. Pour the nutrient mixture on top garden soil with compost, humus, wood ash and 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate. A young bush must be tied to a support installed next to it.

The planted plant is watered, after the water is absorbed, an earthen mound is poured to the level of the first bud that has given growth.

Propagation of grapes by layering

If your site is already growing good grapes, you can get new bushes using layering. For this, the lower shoots are not cut off from the bush, but buried in earth for rooting. Before the buds begin to be seen on the vine, a groove 20 cm deep is prepared for the layering, humus is added to the soil and mixed.

A vine is laid on the finished earthen bed and its position is fixed by pinning it with slingshots from the branches. Having covered the layering with a mixture of soil and humus, it is watered with a pink solution of potassium permanganate.

The greenhouse microclimate contributes to rooting, it is created by covering the watered groove with a film. In the summer, the shoots that appear are tied to a support, at the end of the hot season they are pinched so that the plants reach maturity by winter.

Propagation of grapes by pre-prepared cuttings (shanks) - economical and reliable way get a young bush of the desired variety. It is used by experienced and novice winegrowers.

Without costs, it can be used to get a seedling to replace an old bush, for a gift or sale, for safety net, if a favorite variety in the vineyard is presented in a single copy.

How to grow grapes from a cuttings? The process is lengthy, but not so difficult, even beginners can do it. The main thing is to choose a variety suitable for your climate, properly prepare grape cuttings and follow the storage rules. In the spring, rooting and transplanting the plant to an open area is carried out. You can also plant it in the fall if the winters in your area are not too cold.

If you adhere to the rules at all stages, the cuttings will take root, and after a couple of years you can enjoy delicious berries.

Harvesting the right grape cuttings for propagation is a very important process when growing them. It is best to cut the vine in the fall. Although some growers cut and harvest the shanks in February or in early spring until the vines begin to move and buds open. With this method, there is no need to worry about storage, but rooting is a little worse. You can grow grapes and green cuttings.

Cuttings are carried out using the following method:

• choose a twig 0.7-0.8 cm thick with dark green bark;
• cut it off in a straight line, 2-2.5 cm below the lower kidney;
• the length of the cutting should be from 12 to 60 cm, long branches can be cut into shorter shanks;
• the top is cut at a distance of 3-4 cm from the peephole along an oblique line in the opposite direction from the direction of growth of the kidney;
• carefully examine the vine, it must be healthy, without spots, damage, signs of mold.

Chubuki must be properly prepared so that they remain alive throughout the winter and in the spring they can retain their properties and be planted in the ground. Procurement and storage of grape cuttings looks like this:

• immediately after cutting, the branches are soaked in water for a day;
• carry out disinfection in copper sulfate or potassium permanganate for about a quarter of an hour;
• dry gently on filter paper or regular newspaper;
• on the eve of how to send to store the cuttings, cover the ends with wax or paraffin (then they do not dry out quickly);
• tie the shanks into bunches, mark them so that you can further determine the variety (when there are several of them);
• sent to storage in a cool place (balcony, refrigerator, basement).

How to store grape cuttings in a cool, but not very damp cellar, in the refrigerator? Some novice winegrowers believe that you can forget about chubuki until spring. In fact, this is not the case. They need to be examined every 3-4 weeks. If the cuttings are covered with mold, it must be removed, soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate. When there is too much mold, it covers the entire branch, it is better to get rid of such cuttings. If the branches dry, they are re-soaked in melt, rain or boiled water, then dried, and the waxing of the tips is repeated. Keeping grape cuttings at home helps to increase the percentage of rooted branches.

Preparation for rooting and its main methods

Its further rooting largely depends on how to store the grape stalk. The stage of preparing the vine is no less important. How to properly prepare a grape stalk for further germination? They begin to do this in the month of February or in the first days of March. First you need to remove the paraffin and update the lower cut. Then the shanks need to be soaked in water for 1-2 days, depending on the degree of drying out. To revive the planting material and increase the likelihood of rooting, 2-3 tbsp should be put in the water. l. honey, aloe juice, epin, heteroauxin. It is good to soak the cuttings in the root, humate, zircon.

Then you can carry out grape cuttings and germination. You can do this different ways... They are suitable for germination and fruit, and maiden grape... So, germination is carried out by the following methods:

• in water;
• in bottles;
• in the substrate or soil;
• on the wardrobe;
• in the open field.

With any method, it is possible to carry out kilchevaya in parallel. The essence of the technique is to create a warmer environment near the roots than near the top. To do this, you can put a container with cuttings on the windowsill, the tops of the cuttings will be near the cold window, and the roots - near warm battery... A waggon can be made from plastic bottles or paper cups by adding sawdust to retain heat and moisture. The meaning of this manipulation is to slow down the development of the crown and accelerate the growth of roots. Then the grapes grow from the cuttings more intensively.

Sometimes stratification of the planting material is carried out before rooting. The twigs are kept in a refrigerator or cellar at a temperature of 2-5 ° C for about a week. This makes it possible to better protect them from diseases, stimulates the movement of juices, and the development of roots. How to properly process the cuttings before planting, cut and root them, you can look at the photo or video. It will give you a better understanding of all stages of the process.

Germinating cuttings in water

Growing grapes from cuttings with rooting in water is the most popular method. It does not require much effort or special knowledge. The main thing is to find enough space to put the cans. If there are many cuttings, this can be difficult. The shanks are prepared as described above. Trim the ends, soak in water, while not forgetting to treat them with an antiseptic. Further actions look like this:

• cotton wool or gauze is laid on the bottom of the cans with water; you can also germinate on wet foam rubber;
• pour water so that its layer is 2-3 cm;
• a couple of potassium permanganate crystals are thrown into the jar (the solution should be slightly pink) or charcoal: this will prevent root rotting;
• put the cuttings so that the water reaches the first peephole;
• pour some water as needed.

For better rooting, you can put a plastic bag on the jar, thus creating a mini-greenhouse. If the branches gave 2 pagon and leaves, you cannot leave everything, the stronger one is removed: it takes too much energy from the roots, impairing their growth. You can get a lush crown, but very weak roots that cannot take root in the ground.

It's a good idea to grow grapes from cuttings by rooting them in an aquarium. To do this, a strip of foam or cardboard is placed on its edge. The shanks are stuck into it so that the lower end sinks into the water by 2-3 cm. With this germination, root formation is faster, since the branches feed on the waste products of fish.

How long does it take for seedlings to root in water? In general, the process takes 2-3 weeks.

Planting in pots with soil

When roots about 2 cm in length appear on the branches, they are taken out and transplanted into a pot with a capacity of 500-1000 ml. The soil is prepared from a mixture of the following components:

• garden or sod soil - 1 part;
• humus or compost - 1 part;
• large sand - 2 parts.

It's a good idea to buy ready-made universal soil in the store and mix it in equal parts with sand. A small drain should be placed at the bottom of the pot, which will retain moisture. The twigs are lowered into the pot by a third or three quarters so that there is enough space below for the development of the root system. The seedlings must be transferred very gently so as not to damage the young roots. You can clarify the technique by looking at the photo. A transplant into the ground will also be needed for vines grown in other ways.

Germination in sawdust and soil

It is easy to create grape seedlings from cuttings by sprouting them in the substrate. Make it from wood shavings, take also sawdust. Deciduous fruit trees (apple, pear, plum, cherry) are best suited for this. First, the substrate is poured with water brought to a boil, after cooling, the excess is squeezed out. Then you can use a kilchevator or cultivation in sawdust and bottles. They do it like this:

• the neck in the bottles is cut off;
• several holes are made at the bottom;
• a drainage layer is poured onto the bottom (sand, small pebbles, crushed brick);
• pour about 7 tbsp. l., prepared sawdust;
• stick one or several branches at a slight angle so that the upper peephole is at the level of the cut of the bottle;
• sprinkle on top with a second layer of substrate;
• close with a plastic cup or polyethylene;
• put on a windowsill or on a closed balcony.

After 2 weeks, the seedlings are taken out and checked if they are rooted in the sawdust. If there are no roots on the cutting, it is sent back to the substrate. Rooted cuttings are transplanted into a container with earth. You can grow stems in bottles with soil. The mixture is prepared according to the recipe above. The earth is poured into the pot in the same way as the substrate. Sprouted cuttings can be transplanted immediately into open ground... Sometimes cultivation in sawdust and soil is combined. Ground is poured from below, and woody substrate is poured on top.

Germinating cuttings on the cabinet

When there is a lot of planting material, and there is too little room in the room, it is a good idea to germinate grapes from cuttings on the cabinet. The seedlings are prepared, and their lower ends are wrapped with a wet rag and plastic wrap... Stack the branches on the cabinet in stacks where they will not interfere. The free ends turn towards the light source, preferably towards the window. It's a good idea to keep the roots warm and the tops cold. Every few days, check if the fabric is dry. If necessary, moisten it with water. After two weeks, leaves and pagons appear on the branches. They need to be cut, leaving only one.

A more perfect way to grow seedlings is to use peat tablets. First, they are soaked in water, then the cuttings are stuck in about 2/3 of the depth. The tablets are wrapped in plastic wrap. After that, you can put it on the cabinet, as with the first method. Advantage peat tablets the fact that they do not need to be constantly watered, there is no need to take care of the branches. If leaves appear on them, they are pinched, leaving only one. Thus, you can germinate any variety, for example, Dubovsky, Odin, Anyuta, raisins, etc.

Germination in the open field

For germination in the open field, you can use cuttings of any grape. But they do not recommend using the technique in areas with very cold winters (in the Urals, Siberia, etc.). In Moldova, germination of seedlings from a long vine (about 60 cm) is used. It is twisted in several turns and tied. They dig a hole, lower the vine there so that 2 buds remain on top, water abundantly, then sprinkle the seedling, sprinkle the earth with a mound on top.

You can plant cuttings directly into the ground if you managed to buy them too late and there is no time to root at home. It is worth doing this when the temperature outside has already risen to 15 ° C and the shanks are not in danger of freezing. The ideal time is mid-May or early June. They are planted in the same way as rooted cuttings. Only the distance between the shafts should be less, about 20 cm.You can cover the branches for 2-3 weeks glass jars or bandage with plastic. Without rooting, cuttings can also be planted in the ground in the fall. This method is best for early grapes.

In summer, grapes can be planted with green cuttings. The material is collected when the bush is stepson. Healthy branches with a developed bast are placed separately from the rest of the mass. After that, the vine is cut into cuttings with 2-3 eyes. The lower leaves are removed. Growing with green cuttings can be indoor or outdoor. In the open field, root formation will be better if the seedlings are covered with foil. When growing grapes with green cuttings, soaking is not necessary, although it is not so bad for a short period of time to soak the branches in an antiseptic. After planting in a substrate or soil, watering is carried out every 5-7 days.

Transplant to open ground

To grow good grapes from cuttings, they must be properly transplanted into open ground. They do this in the summer, at the very beginning, when there is no risk of late frosts and it is warm outside even at night. By that time, the cuttings have already put down strong roots, become able to take root well. Someone prefers to plant the shanks in the ground along lunar calendar approximately at the same time. A successful process is ensured by:

• the right place for planting vines:
• well prepared soil:
• properly dug holes for landing:
• correct transfer of seedlings to open ground.

It is not difficult to prepare everything you need for planting, you just need to adhere to some instructions, then forcing the vine will be satisfactory, after a while leaves will appear on the branches, and the roots will firmly anchor in the soil.

Seat selection

Where does the vine grow best? Grown grapes from cuttings should be transplanted to open space... There should be no fruit trees and bushes that shade the vine and infest it with diseases. It is not desirable that near the bushes grow garden crops, there was a flower garden, concrete paths. Grapes love space and freedom, then it grows well and bears fruit. The place is chosen illuminated, preferably from the south. It is good if a small hill or wall of a building protects it from the north winds.

The soil

The grapes love the soil slightly acidified, the ideal pH is 6.8-8. Well suited for planting soil with the inclusion of turf or garden land, peat, sand, humus. The soil should be well aerated, moisture in it should not stagnate. The best time to choose a place for planting - autumn, in the spring you just need to remove the weeds and loosen the ground again.

Landing pits and trenches

Grown grape seedlings from cuttings can be planted in pits or trenches. A hole is dug about 45 × 45 × 45 cm in size. The depth of the trench is 30-40 cm. The bottom is covered with 2-3 cm of drainage, it can be small pebbles, crushed brick or coarse sand. Then put potassium-phosphorus fertilizer, 2 tbsp. ash. Top covered with a soil mixture of equal parts of humus and sod land, mixed with two parts of sand. To protect young seedlings from diseases, you can pour a solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate into the pit.

Transplanting cuttings

The distance between the cuttings should be 30-40 cm.It is better to plant 2 branches in one hole vine... After the bushes take root, the weaker one can be removed. The cutting should be planted in the ground at an angle of 45 °. A seedling is added in such a way that 2 buds remain on top, then they are covered with a mound of earth. At the end, watered abundantly (one bush needs 2 buckets of water). Some growers recommend making high-quality trellises already at this stage so that pagons and leaves can be attached to something.

Seedling care

How to grow good grapes from cuttings? They need to be properly prepared, stored in proper conditions and rooted. The stage of transplanting into the ground is very important, on which the engraftment of the vine in the garden depends. Equally important is how to care for young seedlings in the first year. If you pay enough attention to the whole process, there is a huge chance in a couple of years to get bountiful harvest grapes with berries, as in the photo.

Growing grapes from young cuttings, especially in the first year, requires careful maintenance. It provides for:

• watering and weeding;
• regular loosening of the soil;
• fertilization;
• garter vines;
• treatment of seedlings from diseases.

You need to water the seedlings every 10 days so that they do not dry out. For one bush, you will need about a bucket of water. You can water directly under the bush or install drainage pipes. The second option is more convenient. Weed them as the weeds grow. The soil is loosened every week to get enough air to the roots. Fertilizers are applied only organic (humus, compost, diluted chicken droppings etc.): they have a lot of nitrogen, and with a lack of it, the leaves of the grapes turn yellow. You can feed the plant 3-4 times a season.

You can already make a homemade grape frame during planting. If this is not possible, the branches of the vines are tied to ordinary pegs. Trellis are equipped already in the second year, when the cuttings start up powerful and numerous pagons. Most often, grape cuttings are affected by fungal diseases. For prevention, they are treated with copper sulfate or special purchased drugs. Correct care allows you to save almost all the seedlings and get in the future good harvest grapes.

Breeding is a laborious process that requires time and care. One of the ways is the propagation of grapes by cuttings in the spring (shanks) at home. It is ideal if you want to preserve all the characteristics of the mother vine in the future offspring.

Harvesting and storage of cuttings

It is very important to properly prepare the grape shanks. This is done in late autumn, when the bush has already dropped its leaves, but it has not yet been severe frosts... To obtain good material, take the part of the branch that bore fruit in the season. It should be straight and at least 0.7 cm thick, not stiff. It must be cleaned of the remaining leaves, antennae, lateral shoots and cut into pieces, leaving at least four buds on each. In this case, the cut is made at an angle from above, and from below it is cut straight.

After the cuttings are tied in bunches and marked by grade. Be sure to disinfect them in copper sulfate diluted up to 5%. After drying, the shanks are ready for storage. They are wrapped in polyethylene and stored at a low temperature - in the underground or in the refrigerator. Digging into the ground is also practiced.

During the winter, the material is periodically checked and 1-2 times turned from side to side, and the storage conditions are also monitored. If too high temperature shanks can release shoots earlier than required.

Grape propagation by cuttings and spring preparation

In order for the propagation of grapes by cuttings at home to be successful, you need to prepare them by germinating in water and then in the ground. A week or two before the expected start of germination, in early February, the shanks are taken out of the storage area and checked if they are well preserved. If moisture is released from the cut when pressed, it means that the material has perfectly preserved its freshness. For the final check, a test is carried out: a new incision is made, which, ideally, should be light green, with no signs of rot.

Preparing cuttings for germination

Before propagating the grapes, the cuttings must be prepared. It is necessary to soak them in warm water for two days - this will help "wake up" the sprouts. It is then recommended to soak the branches in a rooting-stimulating solution that can be found in horticultural stores (such as root, humisol, zircon). Highly nice results gives stimulation of growth and root formation with the help aqueous solution bee honey containing natural biogenic stimulants that help germinate and root plants. Its concentration is 1 tablespoon per bucket of warm water. The exposure time is 48 hours. Cuttings must be immersed completely.

Grape cuttings sprouting in the ground

The next stage in the propagation of grapes is the germination of cuttings at home in the ground. A glass or a plastic bottle will be of invaluable help here.

• The first option is a matryoshka doll. Take two plastic glasses different sizes and placed one into the other with the condition that a vessel of a smaller volume can freely fit into another with a margin of 2-3 cm. In a large container, a couple of holes are made with a nail or awl for removal excess moisture... A soil mixed with humus is placed at the bottom, about 2 cm. For a smaller glass, it is necessary to cut off the bottom and install the container inside the large one, fill the space between their walls with earth, crush it. Clean sand is poured into a small one, preferably river sand, moisten it. The glass itself is removed, and buried in the sand grape stalk 4cm, watered. Cover the seedling with the cut plastic bottle without a lid or a jar - make a greenhouse. V further care behind the plant is watering warm water every 2 days. The greenhouse is removed when the roots grow to the walls of the vessel, and four new leaves appear on the branch.
• Planting grape cuttings in bottles is even easier. Take a two-liter plastic vessel, cut off the top at the desired height, punch small holes in the bottom. Drainage is laid from below, 2-3 spoons of the substrate are added, into which the shank is buried by 4-5 cm. An important point: the first bud or peephole must be flush with the edge of the container. Cover the seedling with a greenhouse - a cut top from the same vessel or a glass. The position of the pet is with the eye turned away from the window. You do not need to water the substrate directly. It is enough to place a bottle with a branch in a tray of water for 15 minutes.

The process of planting in the ground

The final stage works - planting sprouted grape cuttings at home in a vineyard on open ground. This is usually done in the first days of May. By this time, the seedlings should be well rooted. Fresh leaves have already hatched and grown on them.

Planting cuttings in the ground is as follows:

1. Position the sprout so that the top eye of the planted cuttings is 5cm below soil level.
2. Put fertilizers at the bottom, make a hole with a crowbar and put a seedling in it, cover it with earth, tamp it.
3. Immediately after planting, the future bush is abundantly watered and hilled. Further care consists in watering and tying as needed.

The grapes for which propagation by cuttings was used may yield a harvest as early as next year.

Outcome

As it turned out, the propagation of grapes by cuttings is not such a difficult process, it is enough to follow the sequence and follow the recommendations of Vsad.