Features of caring for black currant bushes in the spring. Councils of experienced gardeners.

Black currant is a constant inhabitant of summer cottages and farmsteads. All housewives try to freeze its aromatic and healthy berries or keep them in jam.

Blackcurrant bushes bear fruit abundantly and for a long time as a result of careful care for them, watering and feeding.

We will talk in more detail about the nuances of growing black currant on our site in the article.

When is the best time to plant and transplant black currants - in spring or autumn?

dug blackcurrant seedlings before planting

Black currants can be planted and transplanted in early spring and autumn. Take note that she wakes up early with the first sunbeams and begins the growing season.

The most favorable time for transplanting is September-mid-October. So the plant will have time to take root before the arrival of frost and actively grow from the first days of heat in spring.

How to properly plant and transplant blackcurrant seedlings into the ground in spring: step by step instructions

the gardener plants the black currant in the moat

If it is impossible to plant black currants in the fall, do it in the spring:

• choose a healthy seedling with 3-5 formed strong roots at least 20 cm long and a similar number of branches up to 30 cm long.Carefully examine the plant for the absence of painful plaque and deterioration,
• pick up a spot before planting black currants. She needs sunlight, moderate shade and air movement. There should be no acid and swampiness in the soil,
• reduce the acidity of the soil with chalk, dolomite, old cement / plaster, crushed eggshells. Just pour the material into the hole,
• Reduce the tendency of the site to accumulate water excessively by forming an elevation of 15-20 cm for growing black currants. Strengthen the embankment around the perimeter with sod,
• a week before planting, dig holes or a continuous trench on a shovel bayonet, remove weed roots, fill / fill in fertilizer to 75% of the depth.
  Compost, humus, seasoned cow dung... Just before planting the plants, add 2 tbsp of superphosphate solution. l. for each root,
• lower the seedling into the hole at an angle of 45-60 °, straighten the roots. Make sure that 3 stem buds remain underground and the same above,
• pour half a bucket of water into the hole for each future bush,
• cover with earth and stamp with a toe / palm around the trunk,
• pour out the remaining half a bucket of water again,
• mulch the area around the trunk,
• trim the branches another 50-30%, or leave only 3 well-formed buds. From this, both the root system and young shoots will be stronger,
• Place the cut branches in moist soil. They will take root and become material for transplanting / forming new black currant bushes,
• the next day, loosen the soil around the young seedling,
• Water and mulch the planted plants regularly.

How to feed black currants in spring?

applying dry fertilizers under the roots of black currant

After planting the black currant, the fertilizer that you used is enough for it to develop healthy for 2 years. Then you need to feed.

You have 2 feeding tactics, depending on whether you applied fertilizers in the fall or not:

• if yes, add 50 g of ammonium nitrate along the side of the hole. Sprinkle with peat, soil. Pour abundantly with clean water,
• otherwise, dilute the mullein in 10 liters of water and add a tablespoon of urea, it is also ammonium nitrate. Pour 3 liters of fertilizer into each blackcurrant bush into the root hole. Then mix potassium sulfate and superphosphate in a 1: 2 ratio and apply the mixture around the roots to a depth of 8-10 cm. Dig in the holes and mulch.

Take bird droppings instead of mullein. Dilute it with water in a ratio of 1:10. Give each bush half a bucket of this fertilizer.

Wood ash is also suitable as a top dressing in potassium-poor soil. To prevent it from washing out quickly, dig it around the trunk of the black currant.

There are complex fertilizers for black currant, which are applied every 3 years. They enrich the soil with nitrogen.

• Make a ditch for such fertilization up to 10 cm deep around the root hole and evenly fill in the fertilizer.
• Dig it in.
• When the soil warms up to + 8 ℃, the fertilizer crystals will begin to melt.

How to spray currants in the spring before budding?

a man sprays black currant bushes in early spring

The purpose of early spring spraying of currant bushes is to eliminate pathogens and larvae of plant pests. Since black currant is attractive to many of their species, processing of its shoots before the buds swell is required.

Both folk remedies and products of the chemical industry tested over the years will suit you:

• onion and garlic
• tar soap
• ash, mustard powder
• tobacco, dandelion
• copper and iron vitriol
• boiling water
• chlorophos
• colloidal sulfur
• furanone
• foundationol
• fitoverm

Processing black currant in the spring for diseases and pests with boiling water, copper sulfate, folk remedies

the gardener sprays black currant bushes with a solution of copper sulfate

• Boil water, add 10 aspirin tablets to a bucket of water. Stir until completely dissolved,
• pour the solution into garden watering can... While you perform all the manipulations, the water will cool down a little,
• water thoroughly all the branches of the plant,
• depending on the splendor of the black currant, one solution is enough for 2-3 of its bush.

An aqueous solution of copper sulfate copes well with aphid larvae and powdery mildew pathogens.

• Take copper sulfate and water 100 g and 10 liters, respectively. Spray generously all blackcurrant branches and water the roots.
  Repeat 2-3 daily procedures.

From the folk remedies for spring processing of black currant bushes, we will dwell on some:

• garlic / onion solution. Grind garlic and onion in the amount of 100 g each with a vegetable cutter and fill with a bucket of water. Leave to infuse for 24 hours.
  Strain and sprinkle the blackcurrant with the solution. One batch is enough for 2-3 bushes. The healing effect will be achieved from the use of only garlic.
  If you don't have time to grind, fill hot water whole heads and after 6 hours, treat the black currant bushes with a ready-made solution.
• ash / shredded tobacco. Pour 100 g of dry raw materials with a bucket of water, let the particles settle. Use the prepared solution for processing 3-4 bushes,
• a solution of laundry soap or birch tar. Grate 200 g hard ingredient and combine with bucket warm water.

Spray black currants with folk remedies for at least 5 days in a row with a mandatory repeat one week after it blooms.

Fighting kidney mites and aphids on black currants in spring

affected branches of black currant with a kidney mite

A kidney mite infects the branches and buds of black currants and is the causative agent of terry disease in it.

In order to eliminate aphids of different types, you should:

• manually pick off all affected leaves / bunches and burn them,
• spray with either ready-made preparations or tobacco infusion. In the second case of dry raw materials, take 0.5 kg per bucket of water and insist for 2 days,
• plant flowers and plants between rows and bushes that repel aphids, for example, marigolds, nasturtium, onions, garlic, fennel.

Pruning black currants in spring

the gardener in early spring cuts the black currant bush

Prune black currants regularly in spring and autumn until they are 5 years old. It is best to do this immediately after processing its branches with boiling water.

The technology is as follows:

• cut off all diseased and dry branches completely, shorten zero shoots as much as possible. They are located on the periphery of the bush, thin and low,
• shape the bush correctly. It should be lush, but with enough free space in the middle,
• keep in mind that old branches bear less fruit. You will get the main harvest from the branches of 1 and 2 years of life. Therefore, leave 3-4 even healthy shoots coming from the root, with minimal cutting off the tops,
• cut the branch 0.5 cm above the bud at an angle of 45 °,
• Shorten the horizontal outgrowths that go to the side at the turning point.

Try to form a healthy, well-groomed black currant bush from as many branches by age:

• 1 year - 4-5 pcs.
• 2 years - 3-4 pcs.
• 3 years - 2-3 pcs.
• 4-5 years - 2-3 pcs.

Red spots on currant leaves in spring: how to fight?

red spots on black currant leaf

Red spots on black currant leaves are symptoms of a fungal infection or invasion gall aphid.

The differences are as follows:

• with a fungus infection on the leaves, you see red islets. They spread up to the axil of the leaf stalk, accelerating its death and fall,
• aphids provoke the formation of pimpled red areas on the surface of the leaves.

Prevent the spread of the disease. As soon as you notice red spots on black currant leaves, then:

• cut off all affected specimens, including cut off diseased branches as much as possible, and burn them,
• spray the bushes affected by the fungus with an aqueous solution of Bordeaux liquid at the rate of 100 grams per bucket of water. Kneading is enough for you to heal 3 bushes. Repeat the procedure after flowering and picking the black currant berries. The second variant of the fight is to dissolve 300 g of nitrophene in a bucket of water and process the bushes before they bloom,
• for the treatment of currant bushes from gall aphids, use karbofos, actellik, home, chlorophos, foundationol.
  Cook water solution a specific preparation according to the instructions and spray on both sides of the leaf once every one and a half weeks before the black currant begins to bloom. Then process with phytoverm.

If you are against chemicals:

• prepare a thick solution of laundry soap for spraying and ash for sprinkling, a water infusion of makhorka / tobacco, onion husks,
• plant tomatoes between bushes and rows of black currants.

Why do currant leaves turn yellow in spring?

anthracnose is the cause of yellowed black currant leaves

There are several reasons for the phenomenon:

• too dry weather and soil
• lack of nutrients in the soil, lack of fertilizers
• insufficient watering of plants
• too much shadow over the bushes
• heavy rains for a long time
• aphid infestation

large berries of black currant in the palms of an experienced gardener

• Cut branches affected by frost.
• Prune bushes over 5 years old to rejuvenate the plant. Use clean, disinfected gardening scissors or secateurs.
• Treat places of cuts thicker than 7-8 mm with garden pitch.
• Shovel leaves, winter root shelters early in spring. Loosen the soil along the trunk to allow fresh air to flow to the roots.
• Apply fertilizers, process the currants with boiling water and remedies for diseases and pests.
• Water the plants water infusion potato skins, cut weeds.
• After watering, loosen the soil over the roots and mulch it.

So, we have considered all the stages of caring for black currant bushes in order to harvest a rich harvest of its large berries. We also took into account the advice of experienced gardeners on spring processing of plants to maintain the health of roots and branches.

Apply the knowledge gained in practice and stock up on your secrets of growing black currant on your site.

Video: how to properly cut black currants?

Black and red currants have been grown in Russia since ancient times. The Slavs revered this shrub not only for tasty and healthy berries, but also for its healing properties... The plant has become so common in every household and summer cottage that there was an opinion about its extreme unpretentiousness. Young bushes really do not require special care and bear fruit already in the third year of life. But in the future, in order to achieve a guaranteed yield, you need to take care of the berry crop correctly. Otherwise, its yield will be low.

The main stages of work on the care of currants in spring

Spring work on the care of currant bushes is extremely important, in terms of their importance they are not inferior to autumn events. The further development of the shrub and the abundance of its fruiting depends on the quality of their implementation. There is no need to wait until the snow has completely melted and the earth dries up. Currant care begins in the earliest spring, as soon as a stable temperature is established within + 5 ... + 7 C ° and the threat of strong recurrent frosts blows. Some procedures must be carried out before the start of active sap flow. The buds of this culture open very quickly and it is extremely important to have time before the young green foliage appears.

The processing of currants begins even before the complete melting of the snow cover.

The list of major spring jobs includes:

• regular watering;
• sanitary and shaping pruning;
• insect pest treatment;
• top dressing;
• mulching.

All activities must be carried out in a timely manner, otherwise the effect of their implementation will be minimal and will not bring any benefit.

Soil care and watering

If the bush was covered for the winter, then the shelter must be removed. The bent branches need to be straightened and given the opportunity to straighten themselves. Then a thorough cleaning of the area should be carried out. Around the bushes and directly in the trunk circle, using a rake, they rake old dry foliage, various debris and mulch left over from the last season. Everything collected is burned. In no case should fallen leaves be put on compost, because larvae of pests and spores of pathogenic bacteria overwinter in them. It is better to remove garbage as early as possible so that it does not spread by the wind throughout the site and does not infect other crops.

First you need to remove the leaves and old mulch from under the bushes and be sure to burn

Then the soil around the currants is dug up with a shovel to a depth of about 15–20 cm, at the very bush it is carefully loosened with a hoe no deeper than 5 cm so as not to damage the root system.

After the soil dries up, especially in the southern regions, currant plantings must be watered regularly. In this case, you should be guided by several rules:

• watering is carried out as needed, on average, usually once every 7-10 days;
• 3-4 liters of water are consumed for each bush, there is no need to fill in the plants, since the roots can rot from excess moisture;
• use lukewarm water, not cold tap water;
• watering is best done in the evening after sunset, then the liquid will have time to saturate the soil between the roots well during the night;
• no need to pour water from above into the center of the bush, watering is carried out along the perimeter of the crown;
• watering is carried out until the berries grow and begin to color, during this period, an excess of moisture is harmful, since the fruits can crack right on the branches.

Water the currants about once a week

In the Siberian region, we rarely water berry crops in spring, since we usually have a lot of snow and a lot of moisture. Currants have to be watered only on the hottest days of July, when the minimum amount of precipitation falls. But if suddenly we have warm spring days, then it is necessary to monitor the bushes and, if necessary, moisten the earth, otherwise the berries will be small.

Pruning and tying currant bushes

Spring preventive pruning of currants is one of the mandatory procedures, without which it is impossible to get a bountiful harvest of berries. It's very important to do it right. Illiterate manipulations can do more harm to the plant than good.

Preventive pruning of currants is carried out in the spring

Trim technology

During work, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

1. Pruning is carried out very early in the spring, as soon as the snow melts and you can approach the bushes. Usually, currant bushes are cut at the end of March, when a constant positive air temperature is already held in the region of + 5 ... + 7 C ° and the probability of severe night frosts is low. It is necessary to have time before the start of sap flow and swelling of the buds, otherwise the plant will then hurt for a long time and, as a result, bear fruit poorly. Therefore, if you are late with this procedure, it is better to postpone it until the fall or next spring.
2. You need to work only with a sharpened tool (brush cutter, hacksaw, pruner, knife, etc.) in order to minimize damage to the wood. Previously, it is advised to disinfect it with a solution of potassium permanganate or alcohol.
3. First, all frozen, broken, dry, weak and damaged shoots are removed. Tops are cut out - thin twigs growing strictly vertically (there are very few fruits on them) and branches strongly inclined to the soil.
4. Shoots directed inside the bush are removed. They thicken interior, and the berries grown on them ripen poorly due to the lack of sufficient sunlight. The shrub is little ventilated, therefore, the likelihood of infection with various fungal infections and insect pests increases.
5. Cut out old branches that have reached the age of five. They can be immediately spotted by their dark brown, cracked bark. Sometimes on them there are places affected by colonies of lichens.
6. After careful examination, leave 4-5 shoots different ages(from 1 to 4 years old). In this case, you can always hope for a stable annual harvest. They are distinguished by the following features: annuals - thin, with a smooth light skin, without lateral branching; biennial - larger in diameter, bark brown tint; three years old and older - noticeably darker and with lateral processes.
7. On each of the remaining shoots, the tops are pruned (2-3 upper buds). This will cause the lateral dormant ocelli to grow.
8. The cut is made 5–6 mm above the intended last bud, with an inclination of 45–50 ° towards the middle of the bush. If the piece left is larger, then it will dry out and can cause the death of the entire shoot. If you cut too close, the green bud will not have enough nutrition for normal development and it will dry out. It is desirable that the bud is on the outside of the branch, then the cut line will be parallel to it.

It is very important to cut the shoot correctly.

Formative pruning of the shrub is also performed in the spring. During the autumn formation of the currant crown, several branches are always left in reserve. All shoots do not always endure the winter equally well, so it is recommended not to cut out all the extra branches at once. It is better to do this in the spring, when it will be clear how the plant overwintered.

In spring, damaged branches are removed and shoots are shortened

Cut currants with light fruits (white, red, pink) in a slightly different way, since the crown of such varieties is formed in a different way. Branches bear fruit fully for at least 7–8 years; when pruning, 3-4 branches of each year of life (from 1 to 7 years) should be left. Fruit buds in a large number are formed at the very ends of the shoots, so the tops are never trimmed. Otherwise, you can lose almost all of the harvest.

Bushes of black and red currants have a different structure, so they are pruned in different ways.

Video: spring currant pruning

Garter currant bushes

Adult branches, under the weight of ripening fruits, lean to the ground, therefore, in order to avoid damage to the crop, the shoots must be tied up. This is usually done immediately after pruning. Fixation of the lateral processes allows you to achieve the following results:

• berries are not contaminated, remain clean;
• the harvest is better illuminated by the sun, therefore it ripens faster and more evenly;
• the bushes are well ventilated, so they get sick with rot much less often;
• the entire harvest of berries is preserved;
• shrubs are easier to care for.

The currants must be tied up so that the lower branches do not touch the ground

Pest control is more effective on a tied plant, since the working solution can be applied to the top and bottom of the leaf plate (there is free access to each branch).

Various devices for supporting shrub branches can be found on the market.

On sale there are special hoops for shrubs, with which you can easily lift branches. But the support for the currants is very easy to do with your own hands. Gardeners practice several ways:

1. The central stake to which all branches are tied. The shoots are lifted and the rope is simply tied into a bundle. With this method, the bush is poorly ventilated, and the sunlight hardly penetrates inside, so there are few fruits, they are sour and small. The method is often used in the case when the fruits have already been collected from the upper branches, but not yet from the lower ones. At the end of the harvest, the garter is removed.

   

   Sometimes currants are tied to one support

2. Rectangular wooden frame on four stakes. Supports are driven into the ground, on which four bars are placed in the form of a square and pulled together (with screws, wire, etc.).

   

   The easiest way to make a square or rectangular support for currants is to do it yourself

3. Wooden frame in the shape of a triangle. Three stakes, with a triangular support lying on them.

   

   A triangle-shaped support is very easy

4. Support from PVC pipes... The stakes are wooden or metal; a horizontal frame in the shape of a circle made of flexible PVC pipes is placed on them.

   

   You can make a fence for currants from PVC pipes

5. On the trunk. The currant is formed into one stem, which is attached to the pole. In this case, all the undergrowth is removed. Very unusual and original way... The technique is often used by landscape designers, since such plants look unusually decorative.

   

   For standard currants, only one support is needed

6. Trellis. Most often used in industrial cultivation. The bushes are planted in a row. Four strong stakes 1.5–2 m high are driven in at the corners and a wire or rope is pulled over them. The branches are evenly distributed and tied in both directions.

   

   When there are a lot of currants, then it can be tied to a trellis

It is imperative to raise the branches above the ground, because in otherwise the bush thickens and the berries are formed only at the very tips of the branches. The most common mistake novice gardeners make is not tying up.

We also made a support for the currants ourselves. First, four metal rods were stuck into the ground, one end at each of which was bent in the form of a hook. Then a thick elastic wire was passed through these rings. The result is a horizontal support in the shape of a circle. While the bushes are small supports are immersed in the ground deep enough, as the plant grows, the twigs can be gradually pulled out and the support moved higher.

Spring processing of currants from pests

Although currants have a fairly strong immunity, nevertheless, this culture is often attacked by various pests. Insects are carriers of infectious diseases. It is much easier to prevent the appearance of most diseases than to fight them for a long time.

In the spring, they must hold preventive treatment currants from pests

The most dangerous pest of this culture is the kidney currant mite, which is able to deprive a significant part of the future harvest. On the branches you can see swollen buds that look like small cabbage heads, it is in them that females of ticks winter (up to 1,000 pieces in one bud). If the amount of the pest is not very large (up to 20% of the kidneys are affected), then the swollen kidneys are cut off by hand and then burned. With a strong defeat, you will have to part with the diseased bushes.

Kidneys affected by currant mites do not open

As a preventive measure, experienced gardeners use the following types of treatments:

• scalding with boiling water;
• burning by fire;
• processing with biological products;
• spraying with pesticides;
• folk remedies.

This method was also used by our grandmothers. In early spring, before the buds swell, currant bushes are poured over with boiling water. Water is boiled, poured into a metal watering can, and then all branches are watered from a distance of 15–20 cm. The temperature of the liquid after transfusion usually cools down to + 80 ... + 85 C ° and is not capable of harming the plant. But hot water destroys the larvae of various pests and pathogenic bacteria. One bucket is enough to handle a large mature bush. The method perfectly helps to cope with kidney mites, aphids, currant goldfish and other insect pests, and is also a good prevention against viral and fungal diseases (powdery mildew, etc.).

Our grandmothers also scalded currants with boiling water

To enhance the effect, it is advised to dissolve aspirin tablets in water (10 pieces per bucket), add potassium permanganate (pink solution) or salt (2 tablespoons per bucket).

Video: pouring hot water over currant bushes

Experienced gardeners successfully destroy aphids and kidney mites on currants with fire gas burner or blowtorch. The procedure is carried out only on dormant bushes, while the buds have not yet hatched. The flame of the burner burns all the branches in turn, passing from top to bottom 2-3 times. It is not necessary to linger in one place and keep the fire too close to the shoots, as you can damage the bark. Only superficially needs to be burned. At the same time, a significant part of the ticks, which hibernate in the swollen buds, and the eggs of aphids, die.

In spring, currants can be scorched with fire

Burning with fire only seems scary, but in fact it is one of the most environmentally friendly and safe methods of prevention.

Biological treatment

Drugs biological origin can be used throughout the spring. But you need to remember that maximum effect achieved at an ambient temperature not lower than + 15 ... + 17 C °. These drugs are considered harmless to humans, pets and birds. Their action begins a few hours after treatment and lasts for 2-3 weeks. Repeated spraying is done only after heavy rains, which wash off the active substance from the leaves.

Biological products are effective at temperatures of + 15 ... + 17 C °

To protect plantings of currants from insect pests, the following preparations are used:

• Lepidocide;
• Fitoverm;
• Nemabakt;
• Bitoxibacillin and others.

Biologicals are considered safe for humans, pets and birds.

The following remedies will help against various diseases:

• Fitosporin;
• Pentafag-C;
• Gamair;
• Alirin-B;
• Trichodermin, etc.

You need to use biological products strictly according to the instructions.

Biological products are diluted with water in strict accordance with the instructions that are always attached to the package.

Treatment with pesticides

Chemicals are tried to be used last, when all others are more safe ways proved to be ineffective.

In extreme cases, pesticides are used to process currants.

As a prophylaxis for fungal infections, the following drugs are used:

• 3% Bordeaux liquid (also destroys aphid larvae);
• copper sulfate - 100 g per 10 l (sprayed for 2-3 days in a row);
• Actellik;
• Topaz;
• copper oxychloride (HOM);
• colloidal sulfur and karbofos (100 and 20 g per bucket of water), etc.

Currants from insect pests are treated with various insecticidal preparations

Do not use pesticides during flowering currants. These drugs are deadly for bees, bumblebees and other beneficial insects that pollinate flowers.

Folk remedies for processing currants

Many gardeners prefer traditional methods of prevention based on natural remedies. The following drugs have proven themselves well:

1. Infusion of garlic. The composition is prepared from 300-400 g of chopped garlic and 10 liters of water, infused for a day, then filtered. A bucket of solution is used for 2-3 adult bush.
2. Infusion of tobacco. Makhorka or dried tobacco leaves (0.4 kg) are poured with 10 liters of hot water and insisted for two days. After straining, the solution is diluted in half with water, then 50 g of laundry soap per 10 liters is added and the bushes are sprayed.
3. Infusion of celandine. Fresh crushed leaves (3.5-4 kg) or dried shoots are poured with 10 liters of water, infused for 30-36 hours. You can dust the planting of currants with powdered dried celandine.
4. Infusion of wood ash. Wood ash(0.3 kg) is poured with water (10 l), insisted for two days. For better adhesion, add the usual chopped on a grater to the solution laundry soap(40 g).
5. A decoction of tomato tops. 3 kg of chopped green mass (leaves, stepsons, stems) for 3-4 hours insist in 10 liters of water, then boil for half an hour over low heat. After cooling, the composition is filtered and diluted with water in proportions of 1: 4.
6. Infusion of onion peels. 0.2 kg of onion husks are soaked in a bucket of warm water for 13-15 hours. Use only fresh solution.

Folk remedies are used only for prevention

For the preparation of disinfectant tinctures, the following are also used:

• tansy;
• dandelion;
• mustard powder;
• Birch tar;
• yarrow;
• marigolds, etc.

For the purpose of prevention, currants are treated with infusions of various toxic herbs

It is necessary to process not only the aerial part of the plant (stems, leaves), but also the soil under the bushes. Fungal spores and insect larvae are often found in the top layer of the earth.

Boiling water treatment is extremely effective and completely free. This is an old folk remedy. Parents at the dacha always poured hot water over the currant plantings in the snow. At that time, it was not customary to live in dachas in the winter and the roads were not cleaned, so you had to ski to the site. There was a stove in the house, on which water was boiled. It was a whole event that was remembered for a long time.

Video: we process currants with folk preparations

How to fertilize currants in spring

A necessary and important spring event is the introduction of fertilizers (mineral and natural organic) under the currant bushes. This procedure begins to be carried out 2-3 years after the planting of the bushes, provided that a complex of all the necessary substances has been introduced into the planting pit. If the soil is depleted, then you need to feed the crop earlier.

In the spring, the currants must be fed

The first spring feeding is carried out at the time of blooming of young leaves. In order for the plant to grow and develop better after winter, it is necessary to apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers to the soil. It is allowed to use:

• ammonium nitrate - 30-50 g per 1 m 2;
• ammonium sulfate (urea) - 20-30 g per 1 m 2;
• ammofosk or nitroammofosk - 20-25 g per 1 m 2;
• complex: urea - 15 g, calcium nitrate - 35 g, ammonium nitrate - 15 g.

For the first time in the spring, currants are fed with nitrogen fertilizers

For adult bushes over four years old, the nitrogen dosage is halved.

Mineral fertilizers are applied in two ways:

You can use a mixture of liquid organic matter and mineral fertilizers:

• mullein (1 kg) or bird droppings (diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10);
• ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate - 20-25 g;
• 10 liters of water.

It is extremely important to strictly adhere to the dosage of nitrogen fertilizers, otherwise the plant will give too much greenery and there will be few berries.

For the second feeding, use mineral compositions

Secondarily, the currants are fertilized after flowering, when the fruits begin to set. During this period, dressings are used that contain phosphorus and potassium. Currant bushes are fed with the following compositions:

• rotted manure (1 bucket), humus (1 bucket) and potassium sulfate (15 g) - all components are mixed and scattered under the bush;
• woody zone (0.5-1 glass per 1 bush) - embedded shallowly into the ground, loosened and then spilled with water;
• ready-made mineral complexes - Yagodka, Kemira, Ryazanochka, etc. (apply strictly according to the instructions).

On sale you can find ready-made mineral complexes for berry bushes

1. When the currant bushes bloom, the first spraying is carried out. To do this, use a solution prepared from 2-3 g boric acid(1/2 tsp) and 10 liters of water warmed up to 40 C °. This procedure stimulates the growth of fresh shoots and increases the yield by 2–3 times.
2. At the end of flowering, at the time of setting the berries, it is necessary to spray the currant bushes with a nutrient solution a second time. The composition is prepared from 60 g of ammonium sulfate, 150 g of superphosphate and 10 liters of water. For irrigation, you can use mineral complex fertilizers dissolved in water with microelements (10 g per 8-10 l). After such feeding, the berries significantly improve taste qualities, and the shoots themselves become strong and sturdy.

As a folk remedy, my grandmother used potato peelings for feeding currant plantings. She steamed waste from potatoes (about 1-1.5 kg) in a large ten-liter saucepan with boiling water, then left it to infuse in a dark pantry for 3-4 days. The resulting infusion watered the bushes under the root (about 3 liters per bush). Now in stores there are a lot of ready-made mineral complexes and this method is practically forgotten by us. It is much easier to empty the powder out of the bag than to mess with potato peelings... And our ancestors used absolutely all the waste.

Video: how to fertilize currants in spring

Mulching planting currants

Currant belongs to crops that like to be in a constantly humid environment. In order to water the shrub less often and retain moisture longer, it is recommended to pour a thick layer of mulch (from 3 to 10 cm) under the shrub. In the spring, you need to remove and destroy the old, immature mulching composition from the bite zone and lay out the fresh one. For this purpose, humus is best suited, which is poured into a layer of about 2-3 cm. It not only retains moisture in the soil and does not allow it to quickly evaporate, but also enriches the soil with useful substances, and also protects the root system from sudden sudden cold snaps.

In order for moisture to evaporate less, currants need to be mulched.

Compost, well-rotted manure, plant residues, hay mowed, etc. are placed as mulch under currant bushes. Sawdust is not advised to use, since they can acidify the soil. Peat can lead to very strong acidification, so you cannot mulch currants with it.

Mulch retains moisture, inhibits the growth of weeds and over-compaction of the topsoil. Thanks to this protective layer, the berry crop can be watered much less frequently, and the number of weeding and loosening can be reduced to a minimum.

Mulching currants with cones is not only useful, but also beautiful

On our personal plot there is a large lawn that has to be mowed quite often. During the period of active growth (in May and June), this should be done at least twice a week and a lot of freshly cut grass is obtained. We always use cut greens as mulch. Pour it in a thick layer (at least 7-10 cm) under each berry bush. Another advantage is that there are practically no weeds in this green mass. The grass gradually dries up, overheats and perfectly fertilizes the currant plantings. In the event of prolonged rains, the mulch can always be pushed aside with a rake. In the heat, it perfectly retains moisture.

Video: caring for currant bushes in spring

With proper care, strict adherence to the recommendations on agricultural technology and timely prevention, you can get a bountiful harvest of tasty and healthy berries every year. It is extremely important to do everything on time, therefore, with spring works it is impossible to delay. Care for currant bushes should be started immediately after the snow cover melts.

1. Three conditions for the successful cultivation of currants.
2. How to care for young currant bushes.
3. How to care for currants in the spring.
4. How to care for currants in the summer.
5. Care for currants in the fall.

Currants grow in almost every garden or summer cottage, but unfortunately, not all lovers of this extremely useful berry manage to collect decent harvests. In addition, sometimes a lot of time has to be devoted to combating all kinds of diseases and pests.

So how to care for currants so that it does not take much time and at the same time get enviable yields? This task is not only quite real, but quite easily accomplished. To do this, you must fulfill three prerequisites:

• Buy good, productive and disease resistant currant bush.
• Choose for him suitable place and plant it correctly.
• Take care of currants not only diligently, but also competently.

Responsibly approach the choice of currant variety

Choosing and buying a good, promising variety is very important condition! I would even say that it is the most important of these three conditions. Now there are new, resistant to most diseases and very productive varieties of black and red currants, from which they collect up to 7 and even up to 10 kg. berries from one bush.

And instead, you can come to the market, succumb to the persuasion of a good grandmother and buy some old variety at a reasonable price. Take care of this seedling for several years, treat, spray and, as a result, collect a liter or two of small berries from it. And this is not an exaggeration, when buying seedlings from any dubious person, the result is most often just that.

Choosing a place for planting currants

The currant as a whole is an unpretentious plant, but if you plant it in a deep shade or in a low, swampy place, no matter how much you care for it, it doesn't matter good result will not achieve. The best option there will be a landing in a well-ventilated and well-lit place, but here you still need to take into account the region of residence. For the southern regions, planting currants in partial shade will be preferable.

Landing scheme. Unfortunately, most of the time we have nothing to choose from. All good places in the garden have long been occupied by other crops, and currants are usually planted along the fence. With such a landing, it is necessary to retreat from the fence at least one meter and the distance between the bushes should also be at least one meter, and even better two meters.

You must step back from the fence at least one meter.

Currants do not tolerate thickening well, with bush method When planting, the distance between plants must be left one and a half to two meters, then the plants not only develop well, but also live longer.

If you only have a narrow strip of land for planting, then it is better to use the trellis growing method. Then the seedlings can be planted much more often, after 70 - 80 cm. Form the bush so that the branches are in the same plane and tie them to wire or wooden trellises.

Taking care of currants on a trellis is more pleasant and easier.

It is more pleasant and easier to care for currants on a trellis, and if you also make nice trellises, then such plantings will also become a decoration of the site.

Landing rules

When planting, the seedling is cut off, leaving 2 - 3 buds above the surface.

When to plant. The best time planting currants in early to mid-October. The plants planted at this time have time to take root before frost and in the spring they actively start growing. Spring planting is somewhat worse, seedlings planted in autumn are already starting to grow and their root system is already more developed, and spring planting seedlings need time for rooting and development of the root system.

Landing pit. A pit 40x40x40 cm is prepared for planting. The top layer is mixed with mineral and organic fertilizers. It is with this mixture that the hole is poured during planting. 5-10 kg of humus, 100-200 g of superphosphate and 30-40 g of potash fertilizers are introduced into each hole. The poorer the soil, the higher the fertilization rate.

The seedlings are buried 5-10 cm above the root collar. With shallow planting, currant bushes may not give root growth at all, but will develop shoots from the buds located above the soil level. As a result, the shrub will age quickly and yields will be low.

The pits are watered abundantly - up to 10 liters. After that, the seedling is cut, leaving 2-3 buds above the surface, which contributes to the early growth of young shoots. The planting hole is mulched for better moisture retention.

And one more "trick": any variety gives more high yield and it will become noticeably larger when planted next to several varieties - for mutual cross-pollination. Although almost all modern varieties to one degree or another, they are capable of self-pollination, nevertheless, with cross-pollination, the number of ovaries increases and the size of the berries of even small-fruited currants noticeably increases.

Now we can summarize some of the results. In order to get decent harvests of currants in the future. you need to get a good, productive variety. Do not plant seedlings in deep shade or wetlands. When planting, add a well-fertilized soil mixture to the planting hole and plant the bush 5-10 cm deeper than it grew before.

How to care for young currant bushes

The main task of the first year of the growing season is to try to grow as powerful a bush as possible with abundant root growth. That is why the seedlings are planted deeply and after planting the shoots are cut into two or three buds.

Flowering and fruiting greatly weakens young plant, therefore, in the first summer, it is necessary to cut off all the color if it appears. Fruiting is allowed only from the second year.

Top dressing of young bushes. Everywhere they write that the first few years young seedling feeding is not required. I would venture to give a slightly different recommendation: for the first 2-3 years, feed the young with a solution of nitroammofoska (1 matchbox for 10 liters of water for 1 plant). This contributes to rapid growth shoots and the formation of a tall, powerful bush.

Do not forget to water the seedlings.

Pruning young bushes. An adult currant bush should consist of 15 - 20 branches, always of different ages. To achieve this, every spring 2 - 3 of the most powerful, young (zero) shoots should be left, and the rest should be removed. It is desirable that the left shoots grow in different directions.

Thus, in 6 - 7 years you will receive a bush with the required number of shoots. After this period, you will need to start cutting out the old branches.

When caring for currants, it is the pruning of bushes that is for many gardeners the most incomprehensible and difficult event, therefore, the rules for pruning currants should be considered in more detail.

Currant pruning

In order to properly prune currants, you need to understand by what principle this plant is pruned.

Currant bush after pruning.

When is the best time to trim

Currants can be trimmed either late autumn, after leaf fall, or in early spring, before bud break. By and large, currants do not care when you prune, as long as it is done during the dormant period.

It is more advisable for a gardener to do this fall. In the fall, there is always more time, and even if for some reason you do not have time to prune in the fall, you will always have a week in stock - another one for this in the spring.

But if in the spring you do not have time to do the pruning in time and you have to prune it after the start of sap flow, then this will no longer be sanitary pruning, but injury to plants.

How to trim

Proper pruning is one of the most important ingredients in good currant care. It provides good development bushes, prevents their thickening, the development of diseases and pests, thereby creating opportunities for the growth of young shoots and the formation of stable yields.

Try to keep the base of the bush as wide as possible, then its middle will be more illuminated - this contributes to better ripening of berries, ripening of shoots and reduces the risk of infection with powdery mildew. Therefore, the shoots that appear in the middle of the bush must be cut out.

Sick and pest-affected branches must be removed and burned. Also, do not leave weak and abnormally growing shoots on the plant.

Leave 2 - 3 well-developed zero shoots every spring, respectively, the same number of old branches should be removed. Zero shoots grow from the ground, do not confuse them with tops - young shoots extending vertically from the base of an older branch. They look very strong, but their yield is much lower than zero branches, and they age faster.

When pruning, one should strive to induce the growth of zero shoots and form new branches from them. The thickening of the bushes should not be allowed. Do pruning every year. Cut out old branches and leave zero shoots to replace them.

If the bush is thickened, remove some of the tops and cut out the oldest branches (even fruiting ones) to stimulate the growth of the remaining zero shoots.

If you find it difficult to determine the age of the branches to be removed, look at their condition. Cut branches that do not have annual shoots. If a top or a two-year-old branch from last year's top departs from the base of such a branch, then cut the cut close to them. Cut out all branches that are less than 15 cm tall.

Good results are also obtained by cutting branches located at an angle to the soil surface of at least 45 degrees. Such pruning significantly enhances the growth of annual shoots, which give the main harvest next year, and makes the bush erect, without unnecessary branching.

Currant pruning video:

How to care for currants in spring

It is necessary to start caring for currants in spring before bud break. If you have not done the pruning in the fall, then do it in late March - early April.

Spring processing of currants with boiling water. Also, before bud break, pour boiling water over the bushes. This is an old, folk remedy, an excellent prevention against powdery mildew and a whole range of diseases and pests of currants and gooseberries. Boil a bucket of water, pour into a watering can, and put in a hot currant shower. Pour a bucket of boiling water onto an adult bush, pour onto the branches and into the center of the bush.

Do not be afraid to harm the plants, this method has been tested many times, I had to water the bushes with boiling water on which the buds had already blossomed and the young leaves did not nearly suffer.

Watch an interesting video of how currants are treated with boiling water in spring:

Treatment of the trunk circle. In the spring, loosen the slightly dried soil with a rake and cover it with humus or compost, when you start mowing the lawn or fighting weeds, lay the ground in a row of currants with chopped grass. Pour it with a solution of urea (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) to replenish the nitrogen that the herb consumes when decaying.

Spring pest control. Before and after flowering, it is necessary to spray plants from aphids. for this, you can use all kinds of herbal infusions, biological products or stronger "chemistry", this is at your discretion. Just do not spray during flowering, this will scare away or even poison the bees. Many gardeners specially pour sweet or honey water over currant bushes in order to attract pollinating bees. This technique significantly increases the yield.

How to feed currants in spring. In the spring, the currants are fed with nitrogen fertilizers. 8-10 grams of urea or 10-15 grams of ammonium nitrate are added per 1 m². Instead, you can water the plants with a 1: 10 diluted mullein.

During flowering, when threatened spring frosts, cover the currants with a covering material, otherwise you may be left without a crop.

It must be said that most of all it is necessary to care for currants in spring, in summer plants require much less care.

How to care for currants in the summer.

Summer care for currants consists in watering, removing weeds, loosening the soil, mulching, feeding and pinching the shoots.

How to water. Currant is a moisture-loving culture and responds to irrigation with good yields. The critical period in moisture consumption is the beginning of the formation and growth of berries. Drying the soil at this time can lead to crushing or even crumbling. Watering is necessary only at the root (in dry weather - once every 8-10 days, 5-6 buckets of water for each plant), without moisturizing the bush itself, as this can cause the development of powdery mildew.

Loosening and mulching. After watering, it is necessary to loosen the soil in near-trunk circles so that air flows better to the roots, but loosen very carefully. Biological feature currants - surface root system. The suction roots are slightly covered with earth.

When caring for currants, do not pick up a shovel. And work with a hoe more delicately. And best of all, don't disturb the roots at all. Protect them with a 6 to 8 cm layer of mulch. Weeds cannot penetrate through a thick layer of mulch, moisture remains under it for a long time, there is no need for loosening, rotting grass becomes a fertilizer.

If you actively use mulching, it will be much easier to care for the currants. Use anything that quickly decays as mulch: grass, straw, leaves, weeds, or seed husks. True, there is a fly in the ointment here, slugs like to settle under the mulch ...

Summer feeding . After harvesting, 70-100 g of phosphorus and 30-50 g of potash fertilizers or 100-300 g of complex mineral fertilizers are applied under the currant bushes. Humus and compost are applied once every three years at the rate of 10 kg. on the bush.

It is very useful to feed the plants with a solution of urea in the summer (dissolve 3 matchboxes in a bucket of water and pour this volume over 1 bush from above from a watering can)

Feeding currants video:

Pinching shoots. If the bushes are not thickened, in late - mid-July, you can pinch the tops of zero shoots. As a result, branches with flower buds are formed on them by autumn. The branches formed after such a summer pinching begin to bear fruit already on two-year-old wood. Timely summer pinching enlarges the berries.

Currant care in autumn

Autumn care for currants is, first of all, the preparation of plants for the upcoming wintering.

How to water. In autumn, currants are not watered as abundantly as in summer, just make sure that the ground is moist all the time. Lack of water in the fall can have a negative effect on wintering.

How to feed. In the fall, under digging under each plant, add superphosphate (100-120 g) and potassium chloride (30-40 g).

Preparing for winter. Late in the fall when upper layer the soil will freeze a little, the currant bushes need to be tied with twine, and during the winter they should be spud so that the whole plant is under the snow.

The black currant bush bears fruit well at 4-8 years of age. By the age of 10, its yield drops. Then it is better to replace the bushes.

And in order not to be left without currants, prepare the replacement of old bushes in advance - in the fourth or fifth year of the existence of the first planting.

Currants are one of the first to wake up after winter. Therefore, to carry out proper care for currants in the spring you need as early as possible, before the buds wake up, and the snow completely melts, depending on the region, this is March-April.

Taking shelter after winter

The first step is to remove winter shelter, mainly non-woven material - spunbond. If you tighten up with this, the bush can rot inside. They clear the area from the remaining snow, and then from the litter, if this has not been removed since autumn, it is recommended to burn the collected foliage, because pests that have overwintered in the leaves may remain in it.

You should carefully examine the buds: the rounded swollen buds inhabited by the overwintered mite should be removed and burned, if there are a lot of them, the branch should be cut off completely. Cut off the discovered black core of the branch to a healthy light green, which means that a pest has settled in the branch - glass.

Watering, loosening and mulching

Preparing the soil consists in loosening, the main thing is not to damage closely lying roots, removing weeds. New mulch is poured, which protects the roots from drying out and maintains the necessary moisture.

Interesting. It is advisable to pour a protective layer within a radius of 1.5 meters, and with a sufficient amount of organic matter, the entire row of shrubs with row spacing. A minimum of about 50 cm of mulch is placed in the form of mature humus or compost.

To care for currants, sufficient watering is required: 4-5 times per season, and in dry summers up to 8 times, without overflowing the soil. Thus, the fruits gain flavor and volume.

Top dressing and fertilization

For growth and productive yields, the shrub needs a lot nutrients... There is a high demand for phosphorus and potassium. Nitrogen supplements have a good effect, but with a sufficient introduction of phosphorus and potassium. Otherwise, against a high background of nitrogen alone, the increased amino acid content in the juice of fast-growing shoots from fertilization becomes attractive to pests and powdery mildew. Also, nitrogen fertilizers are not needed after the second half of May. The plant does not tolerate chlorine. During the growing season, chlorine-containing fertilizers should not be applied. Ash from deciduous trees contains all the elements necessary for culture. They bring it along the perimeter of the crown, in this place under the ground there are roots that perceive useful substances.

After fertilizing during planting, the next fertilization is done only after 3 years. The fertilization period is May-June, in the phase of active growth, and in the summer, after the harvest, when the buds are laid for the next year's harvest. Apply diluted fertilizers, observe dosages. Use solutions of urea and nitromofoska, mullein.

Pruning

An important tip for getting a good harvest is the right way to form a bush. You need pruning from perennial, no longer fruiting, intertwined, weak or damaged branches. The correct ratio of branches by age should be maintained, at which there should always be more young than old ones, more than 5 years old.

The currant bush must be formed upright, without deflected, creeping branches. The bushes should be well ventilated and illuminated, not thickened, so that they are not affected by the disease. Thus, all the nutrition and strength of the plant will be directed to the formation of berries, and not to support the old extra branches, so that fruiting does not go to the periphery of the bush.

Important! There are about 70 species of currant pests. Varieties are bred with resistance to only some of them. The rest of the work falls on the shoulders of the gardener.

Treatment against diseases and pests

Pest control is sometimes done by hot watering the plant in early spring. The bushes, before the buds awaken, when the snow has not yet completely melted, are poured from a watering can with boiling water. At the same time, the bushes are not damaged, even if there are frosts, and this way you can get rid of pests wintering in the buds of the plant. But experienced gardeners consider the method controversial and use an experienced method - preventive spraying with insecticides. Treatment with biological products requires multiple use, with one treatment of pests cannot be destroyed. All treatments are carried out at positive air temperatures, including at night.

Transfer

Transplantation of adult bushes is carried out only when necessary, because with such an action, the currants begin to hurt, and the bush may die. At the same time, fruiting decreases for several years.

In the case of transplanting in the spring, there is a short interval from thawing of the ground to budding in which this can be done.

If disturbed flowering bush, he will shed flowers, and there will be no berries. It is most favorable to transplant in the fall, and in the spring to plant cuttings, taking into account the rules on how to care for currants in early spring.

Caring for red, white and black currants

Black currant berries contain 4 times more vitamins than others, the leaves have a characteristic fragrant smell and are suitable for brewing tea, and it is more whimsical to care for.

Black currant planting and care in open ground demanding on soils and the amount of moisture, grows poorly in sandy, saline or acidic areas, red and white currants are less demanding on soil composition and moisture, their root system is stronger, lies deeper and spreads wider in the ground. Therefore, the layer of mulch for red can be less.

Black currants are more susceptible to diseases and pests, and the degeneration of the bush occurs earlier, it needs attention to the formation of the bush, avoiding thickening. In currants, which have a red berry color, fruiting occurs throughout the bush, and cutting the tops to reduce the length of the bush will not harm the amount of harvest. The black one has just a large concentration of berries - from the middle of the bush to the top.

In black currant, berries are formed on the shoots for 2 years, and in red and white ones - 3-4 years, so pruning in crops will be different, if the growth of the shoot in the red is no more than 10 cm, and the growth of the branch is directed inward, such branches are removed, leaving shoots who have gained 30 cm in height per season.

Red and white currants can be planted more compactly, 1.5 m from each other, black has a distance between the bushes, in order to collect a rich crop, there should be 2 m. different colors do not plant next to.

Superficial spreading of fertilizers is not suitable for red currants, because the roots go deeper than black currants.

Spring currant care in different regions

The principle of regionalization is considered important in the choice of varieties. There are several hundreds of currant varieties bred for various regions of the country. Currants grow best of all, selected taking into account the growing area. For Siberia, frost-resistant varieties have been bred, it is not productive to plant there an early variety intended for the central region.

In regions where winter is cold, the bush should be covered with protective materials, the root system should be covered with sawdust and peat. Where the dacha is located in hot areas, a larger layer of mulch should be made to keep the roots from the scorching sun. The rest of the cultivation technique is no different. You should focus only on when a plant wakes up in a certain climatic zone, and planting and caring for currants begins.

Currant care errors in spring

The buds of the bush bloom very quickly, during flowering, in the month of May it is already too late to engage in spring care, it is important not to miss the time when the buds are still sleeping. This rule is especially true when the branches are treated with boiling water.

On a note. Currants are demanding for watering, but it is not worth pouring in either.

If you do not carry out prophylaxis against pests in the spring, then the bush can be completely damaged, in some cases you have to get rid of it and not plant anything in this place for several years. Leaving old or weak branches is also attractive to pests, which are then transferred to healthy branches. Pruning and burning such branches is one of the rules for growing and caring for currants.

An inexperienced gardener unknowingly removes young branches or tops instead of pruning perennial branches.

Currant is an unpretentious culture, but for the harvest of large sweet berries in large quantities it requires care, important aspect from which is the spring, using the rules of how to care for currants during this period.

Black, red and even white currants are quite popular crops in our latitudes, therefore, the peculiarities of caring for currants after winter are of interest to many summer residents. In this article, we will talk about the nuances of pruning, feeding, watering and processing against pests of these plants, and also dwell on the issue of protecting bushes from possible spring frosts.

Features of spring currant pruning

Pruning a currant bush is one of the main conditions for its good fruiting. This procedure can be carried out in the fall or early spring, before bud break. In the latter case, they talk more about sanitary pruning, which involves pruning all tops frozen over the winter (to healthy buds), broken and diseased branches. True, as for the dry parts of the plant, they can be cut off at any time of the year, as soon as you notice them. All harvested branches, as well as old leaves, which are often under the bushes since last year, must be burned, since it is in them that pests winter, which become more active with the arrival of spring.

Important! Unlike black currants, it is better to cut off white and red currants in the spring (at least in summer), without postponing this procedure until autumn.

The formation of a bush, in each such case, occurs according to a similar pattern, except that the tops of last year's growths do not need to be pinched (which cannot be said about black currants), and two- and three-year-old shoots do not need to be shortened. Simply put, when growing red currants, spring care in terms of pruning consists only in removing old branches (individual parts of the bush, which in the case of this species should reach seven to eight years of age), excess zero shoots and broken, diseased or frozen branches.
Old, but still productive branches can be shortened to the nearest strong lateral branch, thereby stimulating the growth of lateral shoots, increasing the size of the berries and the life of the bush. A properly formed bush should consist of 20-25 branches, from 1 to 8 years old.

Watering and maintaining the soil in the spring

Answering the question "How to properly care for currants?" you cannot ignore the topic of watering, which, together with soil cultivation, plays important role in getting good harvest currants. First of all, it should be noted that both black, and red, and white currants are moisture-loving crops, which is due to their biological characteristics. Lack of moisture causes a growth retardation in plants, crushing of berries and their subsequent shedding. In addition, dry conditions in the post-harvest period often lead to freezing of the bushes in winter. It is especially important to irrigate in the most decisive phases of plant development: during the period of active growth, formation of ovaries, pouring berries and after harvesting, that is, mainly in spring.

The first time the currants are watered immediately after planting, at the rate of 5-6 liters of liquid per bush. In the future, the most effective are subsoil and drip irrigation, which allow you to supply liquid directly to the root system of plants. For one growing season, currants require 3 to 5 waterings. Also, a similar procedure is carried out by letting liquid into pre-made grooves or grooves, 10-15 cm deep. They are made around the bush, at a distance of 30-40 cm from it.

Do not forget about the methods of retaining moisture in the soil. So, spring care for black, red or white currants also provides for loosening, mulching the soil and cleaning it from weeds. The optimal frequency of loosening the soil around the bushes is considered 1 time in 2-3 weeks, while preventing the formation of a crust and overgrowth weed, as it dries up the earth very much.

The active root system of the currant is located in the upper loose and nutritious layers, therefore, in order not to damage the roots, the soil next to the bushes is loosened very carefully, without going deeper than 6-8 cm. depth up to 12 cm.

Moisture will be well preserved if the soil around the bush is mulched with organic material(peat, grass, peat compost). In this case, it will be possible to loosen it much less often.

Recently, currant bushes are increasingly used for mulching. synthetic materials: black opaque film, parchment, roofing felt, spill-proof paper, etc. This allows you to do without loosening throughout the summer, however, with the arrival of autumn, it is better to remove the shelter, which will improve air exchange in the ground, make necessary fertilizers or do any other work.

Did you know?Currants are found on all continents, except Antarctica and Australia, and in the wild, there are about 150 species of this plant.

Processing currants in the spring from pests and diseases

Like any other plant, the described bushes suffer from various diseases and pest attacks, which make it very difficult to care for currants, in particular in spring. The most dangerous pest is a currant kidney mite, the presence of which is evidenced by large overgrown buds that look like small light heads of cabbage. With the arrival of spring, they are simply unable to open up, which is why they gradually die off, which also affects the amount of the harvest. So, in one kidney there can be up to a thousand individuals of the pest and, having got out of their shelter, they quickly spread over the territory, in which they are helped by birds or the wind.

If there are not very many affected buds on the bush, then they can simply be plucked out and burned, but if the affected areas are too extensive, then such a currant bush is removed completely. There is a simple, environmentally friendly and effective method fight against currant kidney mite, which involves scalding currant bushes with boiling water. Hot water will not do any harm to the plant, on the contrary, by performing the procedure in early spring (before the buds awaken), you will help the plant to "wake up" after the winter rest. Boiling water will destroy not only ticks, but also aphid larvae, fungi and other pests that have survived the winter safely.

When caring for black currants in the spring, it is not uncommon to use chemicals in the fight against pest infestations. However, in this case, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the recommended spraying times, since the growing season of the plant begins early, and changes occur very quickly. To get rid of the aforementioned kidney mite, currant bushes and the soil under them can be sprayed with a solution of "Chlorophos" or a mixture of colloidal sulfur and "Karbofos", at the rate of 100 and 20 g per 10 liters of water. The treatment of plants with these preparations should also be carried out before the buds swell, since otherwise it will be very difficult to get rid of the tick.

When it comes to powdery mildew, then Fundazol (15 ml of the drug is diluted in 10 liters of water) or copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water) will help to get rid of it, and it is necessary not only to thoroughly spray the bushes, but also to water the beds on which currant bushes grow.

At the tops of the shoots, the leaves are often damaged by aphids, due to which the leaf plates curl and wrinkle. If you do not take any measures, then it will completely destroy the bush. You can determine the presence of a pest by the appearance of many ants that feed on its secretions.

Before budding on the bushes, you need to process the currants with "Furanon" or simply scald the plant with boiling water. In the case when there are already leaves on the branches, but inflorescences have not yet appeared, Intavir, Rovi-kur, Tanrek, Bordeaux mixture or a solution of copper sulfate, at the rate of 100 g of substance, are well suited to combat this problem for 10 liters of water. Karbofos also helps a lot.

Did you know? In Russia, currants have become a national berry culture, and its numerous species and varieties can be found in every corner of the country.

How to fertilize currants in spring, plant feeding

Caring for currant spring includes feeding plants, but most often this procedure is carried out in the second or third year after planting the bushes. However, if your plants are forced to exist on depleted soils, then the fertilizer applied to the planting hole when planting seedlings may not be enough. Moreover, not all blackcurrant seedlings turn out to be strong and completely healthy, which means that feeding them will be a very important component when leaving in spring.

Strong green bushes always stand out against the background of their pale and weak relatives, so it will not be difficult for you to identify currants that need a large number of useful trace elements. With the arrival of spring, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied under the root of the plants, since it is they that contribute to their better growth and development after the winter period.

The first root dressing can be carried out immediately after budding on the branches. To do this, 30 g of ammonium nitrate should be diluted in a bucket of water and poured the resulting composition under a bush (a ten-liter bucket of ready-made feeding is needed for one bush). Re-application of fertilizers falls on the period of caring for currant bushes with berries tied to them. In this case, the soil is introduced mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium (but not chloride), although as an alternative to mineral elements, you can use organics prepared by yourself. Ash and humic fertilizers are perfect for this role.

Some experienced summer residents often resort to foliar dressing. For example, when flowering currants, you can dilute 0.5 teaspoons of boric acid in 10 liters of warm water (up to 40 ° C) and spray the bushes with the resulting composition. Such treatment will increase the growth rate of shoots and increase the yield by 2-3 times. Also, for spring care behind currants, at the time of the appearance of the first ovaries, a mixture of 60 g of urea, 150 g of superphosphate and 10 liters of water is often prepared, which is also sprayed on the bushes. The shoots become very strong, and the taste of future berries is significantly improved.

How to protect currants from frost

In conditions middle lane, where we are with you, the shedding of ovaries in currants can be called a fairly common phenomenon, since despite profuse flowering plants, in the first 10-15 days after its end, almost all ovaries can be under the bush. The most typical reason for what is happening is spring frosts (matinees), which, even in April, complicate the care of currants. In our climatic zone, they end only towards the end of May, but are not excluded until June 10 (that is, they can fall at the end of currant flowering, and during the period of ovary formation).

To protect the bushes from frost, smoke and spray are used. In the first case, you will need trimmed raspberry branches and strawberry leaves for the procedure, although last year's potato tops, straw manure and straw are also good options. The prepared material is piled up in heaps, the length and width of which should reach 0.8 meters, and the height - 0.7 m.They are placed in one line at a distance of 3-4 m from each other, and on the side of the site from which early in the morning , in calm air will be drawn.

Important! Smoke begins as soon as the air temperature drops to -1 ° C and ends an hour after it reaches zero, or rises even higher.

One more good way to protect flowering plants currants from frost - spray them with hot water, and if there is a danger of severe frosts, the procedure is carried out several times (preferably 5-6). In this case, it is necessary to abundantly irrigate not only the bushes themselves, but also the ground under them. It is noteworthy that the first spraying is carried out at one in the morning, the second - with the onset of freezing, and the third at the same hour after the second, etc. Even if you just moisten the soil with hot water, this will already reduce the negative effect of frost on the plant.

In addition to late spring frosts, weather conditions also have a huge influence on the setting of currant berries. For example, in cold and windy weather, during the flowering process, insect years are very difficult, which means that the plant will be poorly pollinated. At the same time, in hot and too dry weather, the stigmas of the pistils dry up, and the period of possible pollination of flowers is significantly reduced. Therefore, it is advisable to create with your own hands in the garden optimal conditions for normal pollination of bushes: plant plants only in protected areas, select varieties according to the climatic region, humidify the air and soil in hot weather, and breed bees.

Some summer residents consider currants enough unpretentious plant, however, caring for her in the spring can raise certain questions, in answering which the advice of experienced gardeners will come in handy. Only with sufficient information and following all the above recommendations, you will be able to get a bountiful harvest of excellent berries.

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