Juicy sweet watermelons are always associated with summer and sun. The crackle of the striped peel under the edge of the knife, the characteristic aroma and the melting, refreshing pulp. What could be better than, forgetting about business for a while, enjoy a slice of ripe berries. Today, you can pamper yourself with watermelon almost at any time of the year. Supermarkets always have these giant berries, however, grown on the other side of the world or in a greenhouse.

The most delicious watermelon is the one that was saturated with the power of the sun and grew not under the film, but on the garden bed.

Many gardeners are wondering how to grow watermelons in the country? As of today, there are all the conditions for this. Thanks to the appearance of early varieties and hybrids, even residents of the Non-Black Earth Region can break their own melons and get a harvest of watermelons. How to grow watermelons outdoors? What kind of care does the culture require and when can the first fruits be harvested?

Preparing watermelon seeds for sowing

Of all the melons and gourds, watermelons have the most difficult seeds to germinate. In order for the seedlings to be friendly and strong, the seeds are first immersed in salt water. This will allow to identify and remove not viable, light specimens, but those that are heavier and sunk to the bottom, use for sowing.

However, this is not enough. Shortly before planting, the seeds are heated for 3-4 hours at temperatures up to 55 ° C or left in the sun for a week in order to disinfect the seed in this way. Then the seeds are soaked for a day in warm water, which will accelerate germination and give the sprouts additional strength.

Planting watermelon seeds

In the Black Earth Region and southern regions, where watermelons are grown in summer cottages and industrial melons, the culture can be planted in open ground with seeds.

The best time for this is when the soil at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 12-15 ° C. For sandy and other types of light loose soils, the depth of planting watermelon seeds is 4–8 centimeters, but if the soil is heavy, dense, it is more correct to deepen the seeds by no more than 4–6 cm. And the smaller the seeds, the smaller the grooves for planting them are made. ...

Melon crops, especially during the ripening period, require good food, which is provided by the main root system and small roots formed on separate lashes. Therefore, when growing watermelons in open ground, a rather large area is allocated for planting, the size of which depends both on the type of soil and on the variety, as well as on the expected load on the plant.

• If watermelons are sown in rows, gaps of 0.7 to 1.5 meters are left between the bushes. The row spacing in this case should be at least one and a half meters.
• When using a square planting scheme, a distance of 0.7 to 2.1 meters is laid between the plants.

The main thing is that as the planting grows, it does not turn out to be excessively thickened, and all the berries that have set have enough light, moisture and nutrition.

Seedling method of growing watermelon

In the conditions of the middle zone, for example, in non-chernozem areas, as well as during a cold, protracted spring in the southern regions, it is possible to grow watermelons in the open field through seedlings. From the moment of sowing to transplanting young plants into the ground, it usually takes from 25 to 35 days. It is most convenient for sowing to use peat pots with a diameter of about 10 cm, which are filled with a mixture of equal amounts:

• humus;
• turf land;

The seeds are buried in moist soil 3-4 centimeters, after which the pots are left under a film until germination at a temperature of at least 20-25 ° C, only at night the temperature background can drop to 18 ° C.

When sprouts appear above the ground level, the seedlings are transferred to a cooler room. At a temperature of about 17-18 ° C, watermelon seedlings will have to stay for 3 to 4 days, which will allow you to get strong sprouts and prevent them from stretching. Subsequently, temperatures around 22–25 ° C are returned again during the daytime.

Regular watering is carried out with warm water, trying not to get on the leaf plates. A week after sprouting, the seedlings under the roots are fed with a fertilizer containing nitrogen and phosphorus.

Since melons are warm and light-loving crops, well-lit warm rooms or greenhouses are chosen for young watermelon plants, but a week before the seedlings get into the open ground, they must be hardened. For this, the seedling boxes are placed on open air first for 2-4 hours, then the time is gradually increased. In early June or at the end of May, watermelon seedlings are planted in the beds.

Choosing a site and soil for growing watermelon in the country

To get a good harvest from a watermelon grown in the country, it is important that the site intended for planting:

• was well lit;
• closed from cold winds;
• provided plants with proper nutrition.

The best soil for melons and gourds is light, fertile and loose. It is optimal if on summer cottages there is sandy and sandy loam soil, which has been enriched with humus or other well-rotted organic matter since autumn.

The best predecessors for watermelons are considered legumes, crucifers, including cabbage and radish, as well as potatoes and tomatoes.

Before growing watermelons outdoors, care should be taken to prepare the ridges and fertilize the soil. Per meter of the garden bed in the spring they bring:

• 24–35 grams of ammonium sulfate;
• 40-45 grams;
• 15-25 grams of potash fertilizers.

1-2 plants are planted in pre-moistened wells located at intervals of 1-1.5 meters or immersed one at a time peat cup so that the cotyledon leaves remain above the soil level. After planting, the garden bed is mulched with sand, and the plants are sheltered from the sun. They act in a similar way when seedlings appear, if watermelons are grown from seeds in the open field.

In the first week, while the acclimatization process is in progress, watermelons are watered with warm water.

Features of watering and feeding watermelons

It is impossible to grow a watermelon in the country without providing the plant with proper watering and feeding. Without water, it is difficult to talk about the juiciness of sweet berries, but you do not need to overdo it here, otherwise you will not achieve such a beloved sugar pulp. Before the flowers appear, watermelons are watered sparingly, and when the ovary appears on the lashes, more generously.

On summer cottage for watermelons, it is convenient to use a system with which you can carry out regular feeding of plants.

When growing watermelons in the country, you need to remember that the culture loves rare, but abundant watering, which is extremely necessary in the hot season, in conditions of a shortage of natural moisture. A comfortable soil moisture level for watermelons is 85%. On sandy soil, poorly retaining moisture, the beds are watered more often, and less often on chernozem and clay soils. When the berries are poured and they begin to ripen, watering is carried out less often, and then completely stopped.

The feeding schedule for watermelons grown in the country includes three procedures, during each of which approximately 2 liters of liquid fertilizers should be per plant. A week after planting in the ground, watermelons are watered with a solution of 10 liters of water:

• 40-50 grams of superphosphate;
• 30–35 grams of ammonium sulfate;
• 15-20 grams of potassium salts.

When active growth of lashes begins on the plants, the watermelons should receive a second feeding with half the concentration of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. With the beginning of the formation of ovaries, one more top dressing is carried out, adding a solution under the watermelons growing in the country based on:

• 20-25 grams of ammonium sulfate;
• 10 grams of superphosphate;
• 35 grams of potassium salts.

The nutrient mixture is introduced into furrows arranged in advance at a distance of 15–20 cm from the bushes.

A decrease in the proportion of nitrogen fertilizers is associated with the possibility of accumulation of nitrates in the pulp of berries. Also, this measure will push the plants not to gain green mass, but to ripen.

Caring for watermelons grown in the country

Caring for watermelons growing in the open field consists of:

• in regular loosening of the soil under the plants;
• in watering and feeding melons and gourds;
• in the removal of weeds;
• in the fight against plant pests and diseases;
• in the protection of lashes and ovaries from freezing.

The soil under the plants is loosened to a depth of 7 cm, not only after planting, but also after watering and rains, until the lashes and foliage cover the spaces between individual bushes.

To protect the ovaries and shoots from the wind, it is useful to fasten the lashes to the ground using wire pins or sprinkling the stems with moist soil.

If in the area where watermelons grow, there is a risk of moisture stagnation or not enough light, trellises are built for the plants and, at the beginning of the growth of the lashes, the shoots are transferred from the ground to strong vertical supports. The same technique is useful if there is not enough space in the country for growing watermelons using the traditional melon method. As they grow, the shoots are spread over a trellis or laid out on the ground so that one whip does not obscure the other.

If a watermelon is grown on a trellis in the country, it is recommended to leave only one main lash, on which, after flowering, depending on the variety and climate, from 3 to 6 fruits should be tied. The rest of the shoots are pinched in the early stages of growth, and then, when the ovary reaches the size of a five-ruble coin, the top of the fruiting stem is removed.

When growing watermelons in the open field by the melon method, pinch all the shoots after 3–6 ovaries, remove the stems that appear from the axils of the leaves and female flowers.

It is interesting that the trimmed side lashes can be rooted and also obtained from them, albeit a late and small, but high-quality harvest.

If there is a threat of frost in the area where watermelons grow, the plants are protected with cardboard or special covering material.

When to harvest watermelons?

The ripening ones are easy to recognize by the changed color. With cucumbers and zucchini - the main thing is not to linger with the collection, so that the vegetables do not lose their juiciness and useful properties. And when to pick watermelons, how to distinguish a ripe berry from one that still needs to warm the sides in the sun?

The earliest ripening varieties of watermelons in the central part of Russia can only yield a harvest by mid-August. At the same time, mass harvesting at the summer cottage is not carried out, except for cases when the berries on the melon are threatened with frost. While the warm season lasts, the ripe watermelons are cut from the lashes:

• with a glossy dense bark;
• with a deaf, audible sound when tapped;
• with a smooth peduncle without hairs inherent in the green ovary;
• with dry bracts and whiskers at the base of the leaf.

All these signs of ripeness must be considered in aggregate and only then are watermelons harvested, otherwise it is possible that the cut berry will be unripe.

However, when watermelons are used for storage or transportation, it is best to pick the berries a few days before full maturation... Such watermelons, being in a dry, warm room, can ripen without losing any useful properties, no taste or aroma. But for obtaining seeds, only watermelons are suitable, harvested in a fully ripe state.

Growing watermelons in the middle lane - video

The best watermelons are brought from the southern regions, but you can get a good harvest of this huge striped berry even in the Moscow region; planting watermelons even in the Leningrad region. It turns out that this is not difficult to do, you just need to know the basics of melon growing and put a little work into it. The basic operations are familiar to every gardener, and the only obstacle can be too cold summer.

Description of the plant

Watermelon belongs to the pumpkin family and is an annual plant. Most varieties have a long, creeping stem, extending up to two meters. The leaves are dark green in color, large, with a strong dissection. According to biological classification, the fruit is a berry, very large, usually spherical in shape. In some varieties, it is not a ball, but an elongated torpedo-shaped berry. The weight of the fetus is significant: it can range from 500 g to 20 kg. The bark of watermelon has different shades Green colour; most often it is covered with dark or light stripes, but it can also be monochromatic. The pulp is juicy, in most cases red or dark pink, but there are varieties with an orange or yellow heart. There are usually a lot of seeds, they are large, 1–2 cm long, flat, hard, black or brown in color.

How does a watermelon grow

The main part of the harvest of watermelons is obtained in the subtropical zone, much less in temperate climates. In Russia, watermelon is grown mainly in the Lower Volga region and the North Caucasus, but amateur gardeners are promoting the culture much further north. Watermelon originates from the African continent. This culture tolerates heat and drought, it needs warmth and bright sunlight. However, the watermelon normally tolerates short cold snaps, it is undemanding to the composition of the soil. The roots are able to suck out water from considerable depths, so the watermelon is able to grow in conditions of moisture deficit. At the same time, it responds well to artificial irrigation, in which, in combination with planting on light sandy loam soils, it produces fruits of very high quality.

Watermelon should be in the sun, and adult plants extract water for themselves

Application

Watermelon is good for people of all ages. Its juice is dominated by simple, easily digestible sugars - glucose and fructose, and in terms of the content of the latter, it is one of the champions among cultivated plants. Watermelon contains various organic acids, including folic acid, which is of great importance for the human body. Watermelon contributes to the regulation of fat metabolism, which determines its use in medicine and nutrition, contains iron salts and other trace elements. There is even a concept of a watermelon diet.

Watermelon is consumed mainly fresh, being a wonderful summer dessert. You can eat almost unlimited amounts of it, although doctors warn against excesses in the presence of certain diseases. At the same time, during the mass harvest, watermelons are also used for various harvesting. You can make juice from them, and with slow evaporation of the latter, you can get nardek honey. Very tasty candied watermelon is known. There are many lovers of salted and canned watermelons: small fruits, including those that are not fully ripe, are spent on such preparations.

Varieties

All known varieties of watermelon are conventionally divided into early ripening, mid-ripening and late. If we talk about our country, then late varieties (for example, Spring, Ikar, Holodok) it makes sense to plant only in the southernmost regions; in Central Russia, only early varieties have time to fully ripen, such as Victoria, Skorik, Ogonyok. Varieties of medium ripening (Lezheboka, Ataman, etc.) occupy an intermediate position. Among the "classic" varieties of watermelon, the following are the most popular.

• Ogonyok is an extremely popular early maturing variety, known since the times of the USSR. The fruits are small (about 2 kg), the seeds in them are very small, and the pulp has an excellent delicate taste. The bark is thin, its color is black-green with a blurred pattern. The variety is capable of fully ripening in the Central Black Earth, East Siberian and Far Eastern regions.
• Chill is one of the most famous varieties of late-ripening watermelons. Fruits are stored for more than 3 months, the variety is very productive, has an excellent taste. The chill appeared in the early 1990s, and is intended for planting in the North Caucasian and Lower Volga regions. The bush is very powerful, with long (up to 5 meters) lashes, moderately resistant to diseases. The fruit is somewhat elongated, weighing about 4 kg, dark green with almost black stripes. Watermelon cannot be called thin, but it is well transported and stored. The flesh of a watermelon is bright red, very sweet, tender.
• Suga baby - a variety included in the State Register not so long ago, is intended for the Central Black Earth Region, but can be grown further north, since it easily tolerates cold snaps, including in spring. An ultra-early ripening variety. The bush and leaves are medium in size, the fruit is round and rather small: most of the specimens reach a mass of 1 kg, and only a few grow up to 4 kg. The fruit is thin, striped, outside the usual dark green... The pulp is dark red in color, with very small seeds. The palatability is characterized as excellent. Since "Suga baby" is translated as "Sugar baby", you can find a description of the variety under both names on the web, which can cause some confusion. So, describing "Sugar baby", they indicate that it is recommended for severe weather conditions, including for cultivation in Siberia, since it is extremely resistant to low temperatures... However, the variety under this (Russian) name is absent in the State Register, but at the same time, the main part of the description corresponds to both Russian and English names. A universal variety: it is good not only fresh, but also salted. Carries easily.
• Crimson sweet is one of the trendy varieties grown in most European countries, of French origin. Watermelon of ultra-early ripening, but in its segment - one of the largest-fruited. Globular fruits weigh an average of 10 kg, and can grow even larger. Coloring - classic watermelon, striped (lighter stripes on a dark green background), dark red pulp, without veins, very sweet and tasty, crispy. The fruits are transportable, well stored, and the plants themselves are drought and disease resistant.

Photo gallery: popular varieties of watermelons

Spark is a well-deserved early variety that grows in almost all regions Chill comes on the shelves in September and can delight with its taste for several months Sugar baby ripens very quickly, therefore it is planted in almost all regions of Crimson suite - one of the largest-fruited among early varieties

In addition to those listed in this list, in recent years, various exotic varieties that do not fit into the usual image of a striped berry with a red interior filled with numerous seeds have enjoyed certain popularity. For example, there is a very expensive and scarce black watermelon. The Densuke variety is grown in Japan. Outside, it is absolutely black, glossy, without stripes, weighs 5-7 kg, and inside it contains the usual-looking bright red pulp. True, the gourmets who have tasted it describe the taste not just as sweet, but as magnificent. At the same time, in Russia there are also domestic, very inexpensive, varieties that outwardly resemble Densuke. Such are, for example, the Black Prince or the Black Excellent. They may not be as tasty, but they also don't cost that much on the market.

Densuke's black watermelon is very expensive, but is it rightful for gourmets to decide

In recent years, watermelons with yellow flesh have come into vogue. They are hybrid plants; outwardly they are no different from traditional watermelons, but inside - yellow color... They have almost no seeds (and sometimes no seeds at all), and the taste is very different from the usual. The pulp may contain flavors of mango, lemon, pineapple and other southern fruits. So, for example, about 10 years ago, the Lunny watermelon was included in the State Register of the Russian Federation. Like all other yellow watermelons, it ripens early. Bush average size, elliptical in shape, the fruit is small: its weight is from 2 to 3 kg. The outside is striped, but the flesh is light yellow, tender, of excellent taste. Capable of short-term storage (about a month).

Lunar outside - an ordinary watermelon, but inside it looks very unusual

Already in the middle of the last century, varieties of watermelons with a complete lack of seeds were bred. As a rule, such watermelons are sweeter, the shape of most varieties is oblong, and the mass is relatively small (about 4 kg).

A reasonable question: how to plant seedless watermelons? For this, seeds are obtained by special crossing with other varieties, but this procedure leads to the fact that growing a seedless watermelon is somewhat more difficult than an ordinary one.

The seedless hybrids are, for example, Imbar F1, Regus F1, Boston F1. So, the Boston F1 watermelon is included in the State Register of the Russian Federation and is recommended for cultivation in the North Caucasus region. It belongs to early maturing hybrids, forms a long-leaved bush. The fruit is spherical, light green, with narrow, inconspicuous stripes. The usual weight is up to 4 kg, some representatives grow up to 10 kg, thin-bore. The pulp is tasty, pink-red in color. The fruits are well transported, but they are stored no more than two weeks after harvest.

Reviews of some varieties

Last year I decided to try to grow a watermelon in KALININGRAD for the sake of "pampering"! I chose an early variety "Ogonyok" from the "Sibirskiy Sadovod" company. The germination rate was 100%. I left only 2 pieces, the most active ones. Monthly sprouts planted in a greenhouse. They fit well with the tomatoes in the neighborhood))) Not climbing, I didn't even have to remove the excess))) Soon 2 Watermelon appeared on each plant. He went on to crawl and bloom, but I pinched the whole thing, they would not have had time to ripen. By the end of August, 3 watermelons were ripe. The fourth did not have time to ripen. Small in size, but weighty. The pulp is orange-scarlet. Juicy. Little bones! In general, I am absolutely delighted !!!

"Julia773"

https://otzovik.com/review_5744757.html

I haven't made friends with Chill for two seasons. He waved his hand at it, although if it worked out, you can save it until the New Year. Even if there is no good cellar-basement, then on the glassed-in loggia it lies until frost. And what a taste for Chill - all watermelons have a watermelon.

"German"

http://dacha.wcb.ru/index.php?showtopic=47904&st=1280

And I like Suga Baby or sugar baby, watermelons are not very large, but very sweet and tasty.

Ninyureva

http://forum.prihoz.ru/viewtopic.php?t=1991&start=945

Crimson Sweet is an early ripening variety, for Siberia - that's it !!! , - I didn’t weigh, as I bought the scales only last fall for daily weighing of my “champion”. It seems that the weight of watermelons could be increased by a small normalization.

Ukolova

http://vinforum.ru/index.php?topic=349.0

Growing watermelon seedlings

In the south and in most areas of the Lower Volga region, watermelons can be grown by direct sowing of seeds in open ground, but in regions that are not warm enough for this culture, preliminary preparation of seedlings is necessary. Sometimes seedlings have to be grown in the south, if there is a desire to get the fruits of the latest varieties.

Planting seeds for seedlings

If the seeds were bought in a specialized store and the manufacturer is not in doubt, preliminary preparation of the seeds is not required. But if the seeds are taken from a watermelon bought for food, you need to be careful. First, it may be a hybrid, and then nothing good will come of it. Secondly, the seeds can carry hidden signs of disease, so they must at least be disinfected. There is no need to check seeds for germination: they are suitable for a watermelon for at least 6 years, but it is worth choosing the largest ones.

For disinfection, the seeds are soaked for 20-30 minutes in a dark solution of potassium permanganate, and then washed with water. When growing a watermelon in the central region and in the north, it is advisable to harden the seeds (hold for about 12 hours in a damp cloth in the refrigerator). This stage will also help in the prevention against most diseases. If you do nothing of this, you can simply soak the seeds before planting, but soaking will only give a two-day advantage in germination rate, you can also sow dry.

Watermelon seeds are easy to handle: they are quite large

Based on the possible timing of planting 35-day seedlings in open ground or a greenhouse, it turns out that sowing seeds for seedlings should be in mid or late April (depending on the region). Since watermelons are painful to transplant, it is better to immediately sow the seeds in separate cups with a capacity of at least 250 ml and a depth of about 10 cm (it is best to use peat pots). As a last resort, pre-sowing in a common box is possible, followed by neat planting in pots. Soil is a mixture of equal parts of garden soil, sand, humus and peat, or a mixture purchased from a store.

Before sowing, the soil is slightly moistened and the seeds are buried to a depth of about 3 cm, sprinkling a layer of clean sand of 0.5-1 cm on top. You can put 2-3 seeds in a pot (then remove excess shoots), sow in a common box after 3-4 cm.

Seedling care

It is easy to care for seedlings. Immediately after germination, the "vegetable garden" should be placed in the bright sun and the temperature should be reduced to about 18 ° C, and after a few days it should be returned to 22 ° C during the day and 18 ° C at night. In the future, you need to monitor the condition of the soil and lighting: daylight hours should last at least 12 hours, so the seedlings may need to be illuminated a little. It is necessary to water at the root, but lightly: the soil should be slightly moist.

5-7 days after the seedlings have hatched, they must be thinned out: if the sowing was in pots, leave one at a time, if in a box - remove obviously superfluous ones. The next day after thinning, you can give top dressing: a weak solution of a complex mineral fertilizer (according to the instructions) or an infusion of ash.

Watermelon seedlings manage to grow into a rather large bush in a month

A week before planting in the ground, watermelon seedlings are taught to fresh air, periodically taking them out to the balcony. By the time of planting in the garden, it should be strong bushes with 4-5 true leaves.

Is it possible to pick watermelon seedlings

In the classical sense, picking a watermelon is unacceptable: the slightest damage to the central root leads to the fact that further work will be meaningless: even if the seedlings do not die, there is no need to wait for a normal harvest. But if the sowing was carried out in a common box, when the first true leaf appears, you can plant watermelons in pots, taking out each seedling with a good clod of earth and without disturbing the root system. This can be done only if you have a lot of experience in gardening and when absolutely necessary: ​​so that the seedlings do not even feel that they have been manipulated in some way.

Outdoor watermelon care

Watermelon is a warm and light-loving plant, therefore, it is planted when real heat comes and on a sunny bed. Despite the fact that an adult bush does not seem very large, a watermelon needs a lot of space, planting should not be thickened: this culture loves space.

Planting watermelons in open ground

The watermelon is placed in a place protected from northern winds; if possible - on a small hill so that water does not stagnate, from which the roots can rot. The best soils are light loams or sandy loams with an environment close to neutral. Better to plant them in the place where garlic, onions, peas or cabbage grew last year. Do not plant watermelon after nightshade vegetables. As with any garden dwellers, the garden bed must be prepared in the fall by digging up the soil with any fertilizers, except for fresh manure. Shortly before planting seedlings, the soil must be loosened by adding a liter can of ash to square meter... He loves watermelon and magnesium, so it is advisable to add magnesium-containing fertilizers in a small dose (about 5 g per 1 m 2).

Watermelons are planted when daytime temperatures reach 15–20 o C, and night temperatures are not lower than 8 o C. The distance between plants in a large field is kept from 1.5 to 3 meters, but in the country, of course, there is not so much space. Nevertheless, the holes cannot be closer to each other than half a meter, but it is better to use a 100 x 70 cm scheme.

Watermelon seedlings are moved to the garden bed in the usual way:

1. In the selected places, the holes are made with a scoop somewhat larger than the pots with seedlings.
2. Half a glass of ash is brought into the dug holes, mixed well with the soil and lightly watered.
3. Carefully taking out well-watered seedlings (in no case damaging the roots), plant it, slightly deepening it.
4. Each bush is watered with warm water under the root, then clean sand is poured into the garden bed with a layer of about 1 cm, placing it at least around each plant.

Watering

Watermelon tolerates drought well and does not require heavy watering. It is watered only before the formation of fruits, moisture is especially needed during the period of rapid growth of the leaf apparatus. Until the end of flowering, the soil should be constantly slightly moist, but not waterlogged. It is necessary to water at the root, preferably in the evening, by this time the water is warming up in the sun. After watering, shallow loosening is necessary. It is accompanied by weeding, but as the bush grows, the watermelon itself suppresses the weeds, and you can soon forget about weeding.

During the filling and ripening of watermelon berries, the soil, on the contrary, is slightly dried: by this time, powerful roots are formed in the watermelon, penetrating to a meter depth and getting a sufficient amount of moisture from there. Intense rains that occur in the second half of summer, rather, harm the quality of the crop, making the fruits less sweet.

Top dressing

Watermelons are fed in moderation; special care must be taken in the use of nitrogen fertilizers, it is better not to use them unless absolutely necessary: ​​the nitrogen contained in the complex fertilizer will be enough. The first time feeding is applied in a week and a half after transplanting watermelons into the garden, the second time - a month later. It is better to take mullein infusions by adding wood ash to them, and if they are not available, ammofosk or azofosk (according to the instructions for the drug). As soon as the fruits set, feeding should be stopped: the watermelon will find its own food.

Top dressing is convenient to carry out and special formulations for melons and gourds

Formation of a bush (pinching shoots, trimming excess lashes and breaking out stepchildren)

In the process of the growth of the bush, the watermelon lashes must be periodically shifted so that they do not intertwine with each other. But this is far from the most difficult: it is important to correctly form the bush, removing excess shoots from time to time. When forming a watermelon plant, the main task is that it does not waste its energy on the growth of unnecessary green mass, but directs the maximum nutrients on the formation and ripening of the crop. In addition, it is necessary to remove some of the fruits, since all those that have tied up, the bush will not be able to provide food even at the most fertile lands... All pruning operations must be carried out on a fine sunny day, so that the cut or pinch points dry out quickly.

The formation procedure depends on the area in which the watermelon is grown. This work is most important in the northern regions, where the summer is short, and every warm day is important for the ripening of the crop. In addition, the course of the procedure also depends on the type of watermelon: the formation of a bush is most important for large-fruited varieties. All work on crop rationing should be carried out when the berries grow from egg... There are several approaches to creating a properly fruiting watermelon plant.

• According to the first option, from three to six fruits are left on the main stem (depending on their intended size), and all ovaries are removed from the lateral shoots. In this case, the lateral shoots are not allowed to grow and pinch them over the fourth leaf. The point of keeping short shoots is to provide food for the main stem. But as the fruit grows, the lateral shoots are gradually removed, starting with the ones closest to the roots.
• In the opposite version, on the contrary, fruits are grown on lateral shoots, leaving one berry on each (for powerful bushes - a maximum of two), and in total - from 4 to 6 specimens per bush. Three leaves are left over the fruits, the rest of the side shoots are pinched. The fruits formed on the main stem are removed.
• The hardest option is to leave no side shoots at all. Up to five fruits are left on the main stem, but so that there are 4-5 leaves between them. It is believed that the nutrition from these leaves should be sufficient for the formation of fruits, especially if the variety does not offer the possibility of producing very large berries.

How to figure out which option to choose? It seems that it makes no sense for an ordinary summer resident to think about this, but just remember a few rules:

• do not leave more than six fruits on the bush;
• on each shoot, leave only one berry in the case of large-fruited varieties and a maximum of two in the case of small-fruited;
• after the watermelon grows to the size of a fist, leave a maximum of 4–5 leaves above it.

Even when the formation of the bush seems complete and the active growth of fruits begins and their mass begins to grow, stepchildren will periodically appear from the axils of the leaves left - additional lateral shoots. It is worth making it a rule to inspect the whips every week and break out the stepsons, preventing them from growing in size. True, at this time it is already undesirable to turn the lashes, so this should be done very carefully. As the fruits grow, plywood or planks should be placed under them so that in a rainy summer they do not rot while lying on damp ground.

All available schemes for the formation of watermelon plants provide for pinching most of the stems and leaving only a few fruits on the bush

How to grow a square watermelon ("Japanese" technology)

A square (more precisely, cubic) watermelon is good only because it will take up less space... This "miracle" has no other advantages, and it makes little sense to specially try to grow it. But lovers of such exotic can get square striped berries from any favorite variety. To do this, it is necessary to somehow make cubic containers from transparent plastic of the appropriate size.

What does corresponding mean? The diagonal of the side of the cube should be slightly larger than the diameter of the intended watermelon that will grow in this container. In a too cramped dwelling, a watermelon will not really ripen, and in a too spacious one it will not be completely "square": you will get only 6 flattened sides. For the cube to be reusable, it must, of course, be collapsible, and in one of the faces you need to make a hole 3-4 cm in diameter for the escape with the fruit. In addition, numerous smaller holes are needed for ventilation, otherwise the berries in this cube will simply rot.

The future square watermelon spends almost all his life inside a transparent cube.

Then everything is very simple. Once the watermelon has grown to the size of an apple, it is placed in the mold and the usual care continues, observing how it feels. You may have to water a little more, turn over the cube, push the fruit in it while it is small. But as soon as it grows up and starts to rest against the edges, it will take the shape of a cube. Obviously, in a similar way, you can grow not only cubic watermelons, but, for example, pyramidal ones.

Treatment against diseases and pests

Watermelon is a thermophilic plant, but otherwise it is completely unpretentious. With proper care, it rarely gets sick or is attacked by pests. Most often, in amateur melon growing, even no spraying is required; in large farms, of course, preventive treatments carry out. To prevent possible diseases (rot, spotting, powdery mildew, anthracnose) use, for example, such well-known drugs as Fundazol or Decis, as well as the traditional Bordeaux liquid. Each of them is capable of destroying certain pathogens, and if necessary, you should carefully study the instructions.

There are few pests in watermelon. The most common are melon aphids, wireworms, various mites. To scare off most of them, it is enough to spray watermelons with products based on garden plants or simple household preparations. So, infusions of tobacco dust or wood ash(with small additions laundry soap). Wireworms and leaf-gnawing caterpillars are collected by attracting them to sweet baits placed in small holes: sweetened infusions of garlic, mustard, wormwood, hot pepper, and tomato tops.

Harvesting and storage

When the harvest approaches the ripening stage, the question arises: when to cut watermelons? After all, the fact is that fully ripe berries are very poorly stored, and if you want to eat a delicious watermelon right from the garden, you have to wait until it becomes as tasty as the variety allows. Those watermelons that have not yet reached the so-called first stage of maturity are also poorly stored.

Of course, until you cut a watermelon, you will not know exactly what it is inside: it happens that even the most experienced melon growers make mistakes. On the cut, everything is simple: if the color of the pulp and seeds meets the varietal characteristics, the watermelon is ready. A slightly unripe specimen (the pulp is lighter than normal) could reach full ripeness and gain sugar during storage. But you won't cut the berries in the garden!

There are several signs of ripeness:

• when the watermelon ripens, the matte surface of the peel turns into a shiny one;
• the crust should be firm and not pierced by light pressure with a fingernail;
• in a fully ripe watermelon, the stalk becomes dry;
• a yellow spot where the watermelon touched the ground or litter is a good sign;
• if you knock on a watermelon, then ripening specimens publish ringing sound... Muted tones are for fully matured ones and, conversely, for green ones (well, it is not so difficult to distinguish between them).

The most lingering - late-ripening watermelons, but they must also be removed correctly. The berries are cut with a pruner or a sharp knife together with a stalk about 5 cm long.When transported to the storage, the watermelons should lie on a soft bedding, and in the storage itself - also on a bedding, preferably straw, and only in one layer. During storage, they must be periodically inspected, rejecting specimens starting to deteriorate. The best temperature in the storage is from 6 to 8 ° C, the air humidity is not higher than 85%. But even the mildest varieties can rarely last more than three months.

Growing a watermelon at home (in a bucket)

If your home has a sunny windowsill or balcony, you can grow a watermelon on them. True, it requires a lot of free space, and it is almost impossible to get a berry weighing more than 1 kg. The whole process consists of the same stages as usual, only from small seedling pots, plants with a lump of earth are transferred into a large pot, with a volume of at least a bucket, and better - from 15 liters. Of course, you can immediately sow seeds in a bucket (remember to make drainage holes in the bottom).

You can leave no more than two fruits on one plant at home, but after they have successfully tied. And they will tie only under the condition of artificial pollination.

The owner should know how female flowers differ from male ones, and pollen from a male flower (on a thin peduncle) must be pollinated on a female one (with a thick peduncle).

Otherwise, you need to monitor the temperature, soil moisture and give the watermelon more light.

Greenhouse watermelons, the use of nets

In the cold climatic zone, watermelons can only be grown in a greenhouse. There, the beds are prepared in advance, introducing humus and mineral fertilizers into them. Watermelon seedlings are planted when night temperatures in the greenhouse do not drop below 6 ° C, which happens in central Russia around the end of April. Although, of course, in the greenhouse you can sow watermelons and seeds, right in the garden.

Since space in the greenhouse has to be saved, watermelons are planted a little thicker, and trellises are arranged to guide the lashes. Plants are usually planted according to the 50 x 70 cm scheme, and early varieties even plant two plants per hole, directing the shoots in different directions. If the windows and doors in the greenhouse are almost always kept closed, at the right time there may be no flying insects in it, there is no wind there, so artificial pollination has to be carried out.

If the watermelon is grown on a trellis, the fruits do not lie on the ground, but are at a certain height, therefore, as they grow, they may fall. In this regard, when berries grow to the size of an apple, they are often placed in spacious nets of any material, which are firmly tied to the trellis. In this case, the fruits do not lie on the ground and, therefore, do not rot. In addition, when in the net, they are evenly illuminated from all directions, which leads to earlier ripening.

The nets, fixed on the trellis, allow the watermelons not to fall and to ripen better

Growing in a barrel, using a film

Our summer residents are famous experimenters, and in pursuit of saving space, they have invented many unique methods of growing vegetables. So, many vegetables, flowers and even strawberries are often grown in old unusable barrels with a volume of about 200 liters. You can do the same with watermelons. Various debris is placed on the bottom of the barrel, which acts as drainage, and as it decays, fertilizer. Grass, good humus, and then fertile soil are poured on top. Insofar as metal barrel warms up well in the sun, this substrate always remains warm.

You can immediately sow seeds or plant seedlings in a barrel (depending on the climate), but in any case, at first, the watermelon must be covered with a non-woven material. There is enough space in the barrel for two plants. There is no need for a trellis here, and the growing lashes will hang down, where flowers will appear at the surface of the earth, and then fruits. Watermelon care is normal, but you may need more watering.

Some summer residents cover the planted seedlings instead of non-woven material. plastic wrap... As a temporary measure, this approach can be used, but prolonged exposure of watermelons under the film can lead to root rot. The film can be used both in a regular garden bed and in a greenhouse, but only for a short time. Its only correct use is to cover crops in order to create a greenhouse effect for the emergence of quick shoots. In the future, you can make holes for seedlings and hold the film for a while so that the ground does not cool. But long-term maintenance under polyethylene is destructive for watermelons.

Features of growing watermelons in different regions

Trouble-free cultivation of watermelons is possible only in the south, other regions have their own rules, but all of them are mainly aimed only at creating warm conditions for this berry.

Watermelons in the south of Russia

In the southern regions (starting with Volgograd), only amateurs who want to get very early harvests are engaged in seedlings. V industrial production watermelons are sown directly into open ground, starting in mid-spring. They are watered only at first, before flowering, and then melon, in fact, grows by itself.

Already starting from the Central Black Earth region, options are possible. Here, cultivation is used both through seedlings and without it, and sowing in the garden is possible already at the beginning of May. Greenhouses are usually not needed.

For the first time, many summer residents cover crops with a film. Some sow watermelons immediately after planting potatoes, on free place... Since the second half of June, they are not watered at all, the precipitation is usually enough.

Central regions of Russia, Ural region

In the central regions of the country, and even more so in the Urals, it is possible to get a crop in the open field only seedling method... Seedlings (preferably in peat pots) are planted in the garden at the end of spring, but they are often used greenhouse cultivation planting seedlings immediately after the May holidays. Only early varieties are used: Ogonyok, Skorik, Sibiryak, and in the event of an unsuccessful summer in the open field, even they may not ripen and be used only for salting.

When planting in greenhouses, many alternate watermelons with cucumbers, although this can hardly be considered reasonable: watermelon is a resident of arid regions, and cucumbers need moist air. But with timely ventilation and proper temperature control, both crops can bring good yields.

Video: growing watermelons in greenhouse conditions

Northwest region, Leningrad region

Until recently, it was believed that it was unrealistic to grow watermelons in the open field in the north-west of the country, but in recent years there have been more and more reports that enthusiasts are able to do this even in Karelia and the Murmansk region. True, luck is variable and depends on how the summer turned out, and the fruits are not very tasty. But in greenhouses, watermelons in the Leningrad Region have been grown for a long time and quite successfully. But even greenhouse cultivation involves the use of only early varieties and requires a lot of effort. Among agronomists, it is believed that the unwritten border of growing watermelons, even in greenhouses, runs along the St. Petersburg - Kirov line: in more northern regions, "the game is not worth it."

Watermelons in the Far East

The heat in the Far Eastern region is quite enough for growing watermelons in the open field, there are even zoned varieties, for example, Ogonyok, Early Kuban, Skorik, although ripening is possible for any other varieties, except for very late ones. Sowing seeds directly into the garden, of course, is risky, so they practice the seedling method.

The only difference between the Far Eastern technology and the traditional one is due to the fact that in the second half of summer there are often long and heavy rains here, as a result of which watermelons can rot. They cope with this simply: they are planted on high ridges, from which excess water flows. The size of the ridges is any convenient for use. In summer cottages, they are made about a meter wide, raised above the furrows to a height of 20-25 cm.

Ukraine

Ukraine is the second largest country in Europe, so the climate is highly dependent on the region. And if in the north of the country it is similar to the one near Moscow, then in the south it is ideal for cultivating melons and gourds. In the south of Ukraine, they do not know the concept of "seedling", they sow watermelons right in the field or garden in late April - early May, and the care for them is minimal. In the north, it is also possible to sow seeds in a garden bed (at the end of spring), and preliminary cultivation of seedlings.

Growing watermelons is not always a lottery: with some experience and luck, normal fruits can be obtained in central Russia. And already at latitudes south of Kursk or Saratov, this striped berry is a traditional inhabitant of the beds of enthusiastic gardeners. You can enjoy delicious sweet fruits right from the garden with some effort, but they are small: the technology of growing melons and gourds is available to every summer resident.

Watermelon is one of the largest berries that belongs to the pumpkin family. The berry is native to Africa - Lesotho. The flowers of the berry bloom in the summer season - with boat-shaped leaves. The stems of the berry can reach a height of 4 meters.

Planting a watermelon in open ground

In the soil, watermelons are grown by seed. Before sowing, it is recommended to soak the seeds in water, the temperature of which is fifty degrees Celsius, until the seeds are hatched. Then, holes are made in the ground ten centimeters deep at a distance of about one meter from each other, a tablespoon of ash and a spoonful of Ammofoska, 1 kilogram of humus are added to the holes, all this is mixed with earth and two liters of water are poured into the hole. After the water is completely absorbed, place two or three seeds in one hole. Cover the seeds with soil and gently compact the surface. The first sprouts of watermelon will appear in a week and a half.

Growing watermelons in seedlings

Notes:

1. You should not plant seeds in cold ground, as the seedlings will have to wait much longer for the watermelon, or they will die;
2. Seeds should be sown in the ground at the end of May;
3. As soon as the first shoots have appeared, you need to thin out four leaves of the berry (no more).

Seedling method of growing watermelon

Sowing watermelon seeds for seedlings

From planting seeds in separate containers (0.4 l.) In early May. Sowing is done in the ground, consisting of sand and peat. For five liters of such a mixture, you need to add one hundred grams of superphosphate and dolomite flour.

Watermelon harvest

We must not forget that watermelon requires additional feeding, abundant watering and sometimes good lighting(artificial). Seedlings need to be watered without flooding the leaves of the berries themselves. Saplings should be fed with mineral fertilizers.

Planting watermelon seedlings in open ground

Berries are planted in the ground at the beginning of summer, at the stage of development of the sixth leaf. It is not recommended to plant watermelon where vegetables were grown. After the collection has passed, plant melons, watermelons, etc. in this place. it will be possible only in eight years.

Sandy loam earth with a hydrogen index (seven units) is perfect for watermelons. The site needs to be prepared in the fall: five kilograms of rotted manure per square meter for digging, 45 g of superphosphate, twenty grams of potassium salt and thirty grams of ammonium sulfate.

Delicious watermelon

Outdoor watermelon care

And in conclusion, with regards to watering the watermelon. The berry is watered abundantly only once a week, three buckets of water per square meter. m, if it's too hot outside, then watermelons are abundantly watered twice a week. When fruit is formed, watering is gradually reduced three weeks before the crop is harvested. For the entire summer season, the berries are watered only four times. Already on the second day after abundant watering, you must not forget to loosen the soil, removing weeds. After the berries close their rows, the soil can be stopped to loosen, since the weeds will no longer bring any harm. The main thing is not to forget the rules for caring for a watermelon, and then the garden will bloom, and you can admire such a garden again and again.

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Melon at the summer cottage is given an honorable warm place. Sunny melons and round-sided watermelons give indescribable pleasure to adult eaters and toddler gourmets. Children are ready from morning till night to enjoy the juicy pulp of watermelons to the envy of obsessive wasps and hardworking bees. If earlier it was believed that watermelon is an exclusively southern berry, now more than 200 varieties and hybrids are adapted for cultivation in various climatic regions of our country. A fruit grown on a spacious open field has a better chance of gaining the necessary weight and the necessary taste than its summer cousin. The plant is held by the antennae for resistant stems weeds, which, in turn, prevents the watermelon lashes from tangling. When planting watermelons on personal plot Consider the space you need and don't overdo it with weeding.

Sowing watermelon seeds in open ground

Much to the chagrin of amateur melon growers, it is quite difficult to grow a wonderful harvest of ripe watermelons. Especially when it comes to areas with unsuitable climatic conditions. Even the most careful care will not be able to provide the berries with the presence of juicy ripe pulp if the summer is not hot and long enough. Of course, good host will not give an abyss to such a harvest - lightly salted watermelons are still that delicacy. But a well-ripened, fragrant fruit plucked from its garden can be endlessly softened on both cheeks from morning to evening.

The watermelons are ripe - the family is delighted

Preparing seeds for sowing in open ground

It is advisable to choose a place for sowing watermelon seeds in the fall. Onions and potatoes are excellent predecessors for them. It's not bad if before that there was cabbage or legumes in the garden. Young sprouts do not like fresh organic fertilizers, so beds with semi-rotted manure or compost are prepared in the fall. Mineral substances (ash, dolomite flour) is also brought in at this time of the year.

Watermelon seeds are similar, especially if the germination energy is low. I sparge mine with an aquarium compressor, it can be scarified to break the shell of the seed, that is, file the end of the seed with a file or a nail file. And t should be 23о - 27 оС.

Fech Evgeniy

Choose hardy and early ripening seeds for sowing. Two different varieties should not be placed nearby so that there is no cross-pollination.

Before planting, you need to properly prepare the seed:

Sowing seeds in the ground

Immediately before sowing watermelon seeds, the soil prepared for melons is cultivated with a cultivator. Holes of one meter diameter are formed, the distance between the holes is from 1 to 2 meters. From 5 to 10 seeds are introduced into each hole to a depth of 4–5 cm. By the time of sowing, the soil should be warmed up to 13–15 o C. Each hole is watered with warm settled water and mulched with peat.

Watermelons cannot stand tightness

After the seeds sprout and get a little stronger, 2 plants are left in the hole. The rest are removed or transplanted to an empty place suitable for ripening watermelons.

After germination, two plants are left in the hole

Do not be too lazy to re-sow the seeds in a week. If for some reason the first shoots die, the second run will certainly be more successful.

On farm fields, watermelon seeds are sown in various ways: ribbon, square, rectangular or square-nested.

Video: how to sow watermelon seeds in open ground

Photo gallery: varieties of watermelon for cold regions

The variety is distinguished by its unpretentiousness and resistance to diseases.
Ogonyok watermelons ripen in 60-70 days
Variety Holodok is well resistant to low temperatures, suitable for Siberia

The scheme of planting seedlings of watermelons in open ground

Seeds for seedlings are prepared in the same way as for planting in the ground. They can be sown in plastic trays or cups, but peat pots are best. The seedling soil is mixed in equal proportions with sand and peat. Put 2 seeds in a pot (glass or tray) on moistened soil and sprinkle with dry earth. In this state, the pots are placed in a well-lit, warm place. From sowing seeds to the moment of planting seedlings, it takes 40–45 days.

Before planting in the ground, seedlings need to be hardened in the open air.

Seedlings are planted in the ground at the end of May or the first decade of June, depending on the climatic conditions and the geographical location of the region. Some recommendations on the scheme for planting watermelon seedlings in open ground:

After planting, the seedlings are watered for a week with settled warm water every day and slightly covered from direct sunlight. Fortified seedlings are watered abundantly, but not too often. During the ripening period of the berries, watering is stopped completely so that the fruits gain sugar content and do not have a watery taste.

Watering is necessary infrequently, but in large quantities (10 liters per root). The most important thing is to ensure complete dryness at least 2 weeks before picking. Only then will the watermelons be sweet. No watering, neither the watermelons themselves, nor the nearby growing plants.

Fox

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A rich harvest of sugar watermelons will delight summer residents and their children

Video: planting watermelons in open ground

Little tricks of planting watermelons

Weather conditions are not always helpful in such a painstaking business as growing melons and gourds. Cold and short summers in some regions lead to the fact that the harvest rarely pleases even the diligent grower. Watermelons simply do not have time to gain sufficient weight and reach a state of absolute maturity. Even so, don't despair. There are little tricks with which the fruits will become real pride even on 5–6 acres of personal land.

Choosing the right landing site

Light sandy soils are an ideal springboard for growing a weighty watermelon. But the main thing in a cool summer is the choice of a sunny place.

Watermelons prefer a sunny spot

The selection of such a site initially provides for the complete absence of sprawling shrubs and shade-forming trees. But with an excess of solar radiation at the time of ripening, take care of the shelter of the fat belly in order to avoid significant overheating. Old newspapers or large burdock leaves are fine for this purpose.

Shelter in two stages

For successful ripening, seeds are sown in open ground a little earlier than the due date - not at the end of May, but in its first decade. But in a cold climatic zone, tender sprouts risk dying from frost. This is where a little trick comes in handy - double cover. The liter plastic bottle cut the bottom and set on the plant.

1.5 liter bottle can be cut in half

A 5-liter container with a cut bottom is placed on top of a liter bottle in the same way.

Cut off the bottom of the large bottle and place on top of the liter

In such a matryoshka, the delicate stalk has enough air and warmth, and is also well protected from the cold and winds. Secure the transparent mini-greenhouse securely with earth or sand.

Magic tablet

Watermelon is a picky berry, does not like excessive dampness. In cool climates, dampness leads to rotting of fruits and even stems. To improve ripening conditions, put 3-4 handfuls of sand on the root of the main stem, and place protective boards made of wood or plastic under the fruits. Thus, your green plovers will not come into contact with wet soil, and the percentage of crop spoilage from rot will significantly decrease.

A wooden plank will protect the watermelon from rot

Thoughtful watering

In arid regions, the root system of watermelons tends to a depth to saturate the plant with moisture. However, in northern regions groundwater often pass close to ground level and cause a lot of trouble for the roots: as soon as the roots reach an excess amount of moisture, they rot and the plant may die entirely. In this case, force the root system to develop not in breadth, but in depth. To do this, water the plant not at the root, but in the aisles. Water only when necessary and do not forget about the timely loosening and mulching of the soil.

Try not to water the watermelons at the root.

Trimming side stitches

The bearer of female flowers in watermelons is the main central whip. In order for the plant not to waste energy on side lashes, it is preferable to remove them. At the same time, leave no more than 5 fruit ovaries on each central branch.

Remove the side lashes of the plant, and the forces will be transferred to the ripening of the fruits.

By listening to these simple tips, you can surprise your neighbors in the country and your loved ones even in conditions that are not very favorable for growing melons.

One can endlessly talk about the benefits of ripe watermelon: thiamine and riboflavin, niacin and other elements of B-group vitamins, ascorbic acid and carotene protect the body from age-related metamorphosis and resist cancer. But priceless is the presence folic acid- a fighter of the invisible front and a tireless builder of DNA and ribonucleic acid cells. Dietary fiber and trace elements normalize metabolism, cleanse the kidneys, liver, blood vessels, normalize blood cholesterol. At the same time, do not forget about the ability to accumulate nitrates and cause allergic reactions. However, a watermelon grown with your own hands will allow you to avoid such troubles and will deliver a sea of ​​positive emotions from enjoying the magical taste of a juicy fruit.

How to grow watermelons? In fact, if you correctly approach the choice of a crop variety and grow seedlings, then the growing process will not cause much trouble. What features should be taken into account when growing watermelons in Siberia, the Urals, Moscow region?

Receive good harvest watermelon is not difficult. The main rule is to follow all instructions.

Choosing the best variety of watermelon

Seeds worth picking hybrid varieties watermelons, since they are resistant to many diseases and diseases, can withstand sharp drops temperatures. For example, if in summer period watermelons will receive little heat, then they will only grow to a certain level and will be able to ripen.

• "Ogonyok";
• "Sugar baby";
• "Astrakhansky".

Sugar Baby is ideal for the northern regions of the country. The ripening period after the first shoots have appeared is about 85 days. The fruit has a sweet bright red pulp, its average weight is up to 4 kilograms. This type of watermelon has a round shape, and the color of the skin is dark green. Sugar baby is suitable for preservation. It is recommended to plant seedlings according to the planting scheme 60 * 100cm.

The fruits of the Ogonyok culture are in the shape of a ball, the peel is black-green, and the weight reaches 2 kilograms. The flesh of the watermelon is bright red and juicy. Twinkle - mid-season variety... Fruits ripen in 87 days from the moment the first shoots appear. You need to plant watermelons according to the 60 * 100cm scheme.

- a large-fruited variety of watermelons. Average weight berries can reach 9 kg. The variety belongs to domestic selection and is considered one of the most popular. The fruit has a round or oblong shape with dark green stripes. Watermelons of the Astrakhansky variety perfectly tolerate transportation and retain their presentable appearance for quite a long time. The pulp has a rich taste. The average ripening period after the first shoots appear is 81 days.

Growing options

The culture can be grown both in open ground and in greenhouse conditions. Growing in a greenhouse is considered the most suitable option when it comes to regions with unstable temperatures.

Advice! Open ground is suitable for the southern regions of the country, as well as for early varieties.

Seed preparation for sowing

Before sowing seeds, you must perform a number of activities:

1. Calibration;
2. Scarification;
3. Warming up;
4. Disinfection.

Such procedures must be carried out so that there are good shoots, and the seedlings do not get sick.

Calibration- the process of sorting seeds by their size. Why is this procedure carried out? It is important to do this, since healthier seedlings will not allow small ones to fully develop. If you correctly divide the seeds into certain groups, then after sowing all the seedlings will develop equally evenly. Since seeds of the same "caliber" will be sown in each container.

Scarification- the procedure is optional. It includes damage to the seed coat, which speeds up the germination process. If we are talking about the middle zone of the country, then scarification is necessary. To do this, it is recommended to rub each seed with a spout on sandpaper.

Warming up... This procedure, on the contrary, is mandatory for watermelon seeds. Its effectiveness lies in the fact that it accelerates the process of their germination, since when the temperature rises in the seeds, the rate of biochemical processes increases. In order to warm up, you need to soak the seeds in water, the temperature of which should be about 50 ° C and leave them in it for 30 minutes.

Disinfection... The procedure consists in disinfection seed... In a weak solution of potassium permanganate, you need to soak the seeds for 20 minutes. Next, they need to be dried naturally. This is followed by sowing.

Many summer residents additionally germinate seeds before sowing. For such a procedure, you need to wrap the seeds in a damp cloth and place them in a warm place, for example, on a battery. It is important that the fabric is not completely dry. After the seeds hatch, you can start sowing.

Planting seeds in open ground

Watermelon seeds can be sown directly in open ground. First you need to correctly choose a variety that is suitable for a specific region. After the soil is sufficiently warmed up - + 15 ° С ... + 16 ° С, the seeds are planted to a depth of about 10 cm.

After the first shoots have appeared, you need to thin out the seedlings. Re-thinning is carried out, as the Sentsy will have 3-4 full-fledged leaves. This should be done in order to leave the healthiest sprouts. The distance between seedlings should be 100 cm, if we are talking about a greenhouse, then about 70 cm.

Growing watermelon seedlings in the open field

The choice of capacity and soil

Since the seedlings of watermelons do not respond well to transplanting, each seedling must be individually placed in a separate container. Optimal size container: 10 cm in diameter and 12 cm in height.

The container should also not be filled to the brim with soil, leaving about 3 cm from the edge. This is necessary in order to be able to pour soil into the container.

Advice! Seedlings grow comfortably in humus or peat-humus soil.

Peat-humus soil should be compiled in equal proportions. There is an option for growing watermelons in a mixture of humus and sod land (proportion - 3: 1). It is important to add about 1 tsp or 2 tbsp of superphosphate to the mixture. l of wood ash (per 1 kg of the mixture).

Planting watermelon seeds for seedlings

The term for planting seedlings in open ground should fall around the end of May. By this time, the seedlings will grow up, and from the moment of sowing they will be about 35 days old. Therefore, sowing from seeds in containers and containers should be around mid or late April.

Seeds of watermelons are sown in a pot by two to a depth of 3 cm. When the seedlings sprout, the weaker one must be removed. Sowing containers should be placed on the windowsill, the window should be on the south side.

Important! The seedlings should not be allowed to fall under the draft.

Seedling care

In order for the seeds to germinate successfully, the temperature regime must be taken into account. The optimum temperature should be up to 30 ° C. If all conditions are met, then seedlings should appear in 5 days.

Then the temperature rises to 20-25 ° C, and at night the temperature should be around 18-20 ° C. Compliance with such temperature regime should last three weeks.

In order to avoid deformation of seedlings, you need to observe the optimal level of lighting. To provide the required level of light, you need to create artificial lighting using special devices. The room where the seedlings are standing must be ventilated.

After 12 days, the seedlings should be fed. The optimal fertilization is mullein based. It is not difficult to prepare it: dilute the mullein with water (proportion 1:10).

Re-feeding should be carried out through 14 it. Top dressing should already include 50 grams of superphosphate, 30 grams of potassium sulfate and 15 grams of ammonium sulfate (based on 1 liter of fertilizer).

Planting seedlings in open ground

The main point of caring for seedlings is hardening. This procedure should be carried out 4 days before the direct disembarkation in open ground. The procedure consists in lowering the temperature by 2-3 degrees and reducing the amount of watering. For several days, the seedlings need to be taken out to the balcony or greenhouse, which is located on the street. On the eve of planting, the seedlings need to be watered abundantly.

The optimal time of day for transplanting watermelons is morning. It is necessary to carefully transfer each sprout along with the earth to the hole. The distance between young watermelons should be about 70-100 centimeters.

As a rule, seedlings are planted in a ribbon method with a distance of 50 cm from each other or in holes (3-5 shoots each). Many experienced gardeners make holes with a diameter of 1 meter and plant 1 or 2 seedlings in them.

Deepening of plants should be carried out to the cotyledonous leaves. After transplanting, watermelon and cover with foil.

Watch the video! Planting watermelons in a proven way

Care and pest control

Watering

The root system of watermelons is pivotal and goes to a depth of more than 100 cm. Lateral roots occupy a large surface of the upper soil layers. After planting seedlings, it is important to adjust the watering regime. Optimally, there should be 3 buckets of water per 1 m2 of soil. After the plants have bloomed, watering is done twice a week.

Important! Watering the bushes must be stopped during the ripening period of the fruit.

The difficulty of growing a culture is that with a sharp cold snap, the plant may die or become sick. In order for the seedlings to develop normally and to fully develop the fruit ovary, the temperature must be from +25 ° С ... +30 ° С.

The growth of seedlings is noticeably slowed down if the temperature drops to 15 ° C. Therefore, in case of weather changes, it is important to cover the melon with a film. Since with inside condensation may form, you need to pull any non-woven material under it.

Shelter

The covering film should be removed at the end of June. It is important that there are no strong temperature changes day and night. If such a phenomenon is observed, then you should not rush to remove the film. Plants need constant ventilation and shelter from rain.

Top dressing

After the seedlings begin to weave, it is necessary to make top dressing. It is recommended to use mullein solutions (proportion 1: 8) or solution chicken droppings(proportion 1:20). Do not forget about mineral fertilizers. The most common mineral fertilizer- superphosphate.

After the ovaries have formed, it is necessary to feed the plants with force-potassium fertilizer.

Pollination

In central Russia, pollination of plants occurs thanks to insects. However, if, due to weather conditions, insect pollination is impossible, then it is carried out manually. To do this, you need to touch the stamens of one flower to the pistils of other inflorescences. Harvesting can be done 40 days after pollination has occurred.

Formation

If we are talking about growing watermelons in the northern regions, then it is worth forming one stem by tying it to a trellis. After 3 or 4 fruits appear on the plant and the main stem grows to a trellis, it is necessary to pinch the top of the stem.

Protection from pests and diseases

Some of the worst pests of watermelons:

• Wireworm;
• Sprout fly;
• Scoop;
• Meadow moth.

If suddenly a pest attacked the plant, then it is worth treating the bush with such a drug as Fitoverm.

If there are many pests, then the plants should be treated with chemical insecticides:

• Fufanon;
• Tantrek;
• Decis.

Watermelons also suffer from the same diseases, namely:

• Anthracnose;
• Ascochitosis;
• Powdery mildew;
• Peronosporosis.

Control methods:

• Ordan;
• Abiga Peak;
• Colloidal sulfur.

Harvesting

You should not rush to harvest the crop, since not all fruits that have reached a certain size have time to ripen.

So, for example, tomatoes and melons are easier. The indicator is a change in the color of the fruit. But what is the optimal harvest time for watermelons? If we are talking about early ripening fruits, then the harvest should fall in mid-August. However, there is no need to collect it in bulk. It is necessary to determine the ripeness of the culture by outward signs... First of all, attention is paid to the mustache and bracts. If they are dry, it means that the watermelon can be plucked from the garden. Ripe watermelon, when tapped, emits dull sounds.

Conclusion

The technology of growing watermelons is quite an exciting experience. In order to enjoy a delicious and ripe watermelon, you must follow certain rules agricultural technology. The most difficult thing for beginners in matters of growing watermelons, therefore, in order to correctly sow or choose seeds, you should turn to professionals for advice. Our article contains advice from experienced summer residents, as well as educational photos and videos. It is worth remembering that with a strong desire, it is quite possible to grow watermelons at home!

Watch the video! How to grow watermelons ( step-by-step instruction, from seeds to berries 25 kg)