Ground floors - universal way devices for a warm and reliable base in the house. And you can do them at any level. groundwater and the type of foundation. The only limitation is the house on stilts. In this article, we will describe in detail all the layers of the "floor pie" and show you how to organize it yourself.

Concrete floors on the ground mean no basements or ventilation gaps in the underground.

At its core, it is a layered cake. Where the lowest layer is soil, and the topmost one is flooring... In this case, the layers have their own purpose and strict sequence.

There are no objective restrictions for organizing the floor on the ground. High groundwater is not a hindrance in this. Their only weak point is production time and financial costs. But on such floors you can put brick or block walls, and even heavy equipment.

The correct "floor pie" on the ground

The classic floor cake on the ground implies the presence of 9 layers:

1. Prepared clay;
2. Sand pillow;
3. Crushed stone;
4. Polyethylene film;
5. Rough concreting;
6. Waterproofing;
7. Insulation;
8. Fine screed;
9. Flooring.

We deliberately did not designate the thickness of each layer, so as not to put some strict restrictions. Below, approximate values ​​will be indicated, and factors influencing that. But first, we would like to point out a very important point: the groundwater level can change very seriously in a fairly short period of time.

In our practice, there were cases when, within 5-7 years, dry semi-basements and cellars in private houses had to be filled up, because groundwater completely flooded underground premises. At the same time, such a phenomenon was observed not in one separate house, but immediately in the whole block of private buildings (40-60 houses).

Experts explain such phenomena by improper drilling of wells under water. Such actions lead to mixing of aquifers, fracturing of strata and alteration of aquifers. Moreover, a well can be drilled far enough from your home. So carefully consider the purpose of each layer of the floor cake on the ground and do not think that there are unnecessary elements here.

1. Prepared clay. The purpose of this layer is to stop groundwater. In general, the bottom three layers of the floor cake are intended for this. Of course, if you, removing the fertile layer, have reached a layer of clay, then you do not need to bring and fill it up, you only need little preparation... But more about that in due time.
2. Sand. There are no special requirements for sand. You can use any, for example, career and not even washed.
3. Crushed stone. Large, fraction 40-60 mm.

These three layers are responsible for cutting off the capillary rise of water. The clay layer cuts off the main access, sand weakens capillary water rise and relieves pressure upper layers, and crushed stone does not allow water to rise in principle. Moreover, each layer must be rammed. The thickness of each layer is at least 10 cm. Otherwise, it makes no sense to fill it up. But the maximum height must be explained in more detail. The fact is that ramming is most often performed homemade gadgets... The weight of such instruments is 3-5 pounds.

It has already been empirically proven that tamping a layer of crushed stone, sand or clay more than 20 cm. hand tool impossible. Therefore, the maximum thickness of one of the first three layers is 20 cm. But if you need to make the floor cake higher, then tamping can be done in two stages. First, 15-20 cm of sand is poured and tamped well. Then another layer of the same thickness is poured and tamped again.

The order of occurrence of the clay-sand-crushed stone layers cannot be changed. The reason here lies in the fact that if the sand is poured on top of the rubble, then after a while it will seep through it. This, in turn, will lead to subsidence and destruction of the concrete layer, and then the deformation of the entire floor.

1. Polyethylene film. Be sure to take the film with a sleeve, and fit without cutting. That is, there will actually be two layers of polyethylene. It is intended solely to prevent the mortar from flowing from concrete to crushed stone.
2. Rough concreting. Minimum thickness layer 8 cm. Sand can be taken from quarry, but always washed. But crushed stone is required with a fraction of 10-20 mm. This layer will be the base for the final part of the ground floor. Dispersed steel fiber reinforcement is recommended.
3. ... If done correctly preliminary works, the usual roofing material without powder can cope with waterproofing. If in doubt, roofing material can be laid in two layers.
4. Thermal insulation. It is recommended to use only Extruded Polystyrene Foam (EPS) here. Thickness should be determined depending on the region and climatic conditions... But we do not recommend using EPS with a thickness of less than 50 mm.
5. Finishing screed. Depending on the project, water underfloor heating pipes or electric underfloor heating cables can be integrated into it. Only river sand is used. This layer must be reinforced. Dispersed steel fiber reinforcement is possible. The thickness of the screed is at least 50 mm.
6. Flooring. Concrete floors on the ground, organized in a private house in this way, have no restrictions on the use of flooring.

DIY flooring on the ground

Before starting work, the depth of excavation is calculated. The calculation is carried out in the reverse order. That is, the threshold is taken as zero front door... Then begin to add up the thickness of each layer. For example:

• Linoleum - 1 cm;
• Finishing screed - 5 cm;
• Insulation - 6 cm;
• Rough screed - 8 cm;
• Crushed stone - 15 cm;
• Sand - 15 cm;
• Prepared clay - 10 cm

The total depth turned out to be 60 cm.But keep in mind that we took minimum values... And each building is individual. Important: add 5 cm of depth to the result obtained for you.

The excavation is carried out to the design depth. Of course, the fertile layer will be removed, but clay may not always be below. Therefore, we will describe the process of organizing the floor pie on the ground in full.

Before filling in the layers, draw with chalk, at all corners of the foundation, level marks in increments of 5 cm. They will make it easier to level each layer.

Compaction of soil

Any clay will do for these purposes. It crumbles in an even layer, and is abundantly moistened before tamping. aqueous solution liquid glass... The proportions of the solution are 1 hour liquid glass and 4 hours water.

For tamping the first three layers, you can use a one and a half meter cut of a bar 200x200. But the process will be of better quality if you make a special device. For this, to a one and a half meter segment metal pipe, A T-shaped piece of the channel is welded. The lower part of the channel should not have an area of ​​more than 600 cm 2 (20 by 30 cm). To make the ramming heavier, sand is poured into the pipe.

The compacted layer of prepared clay is well moistened with cement milk. For its preparation, 2 kg of cement is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Make sure that no puddles form on the surface of the clay. That is, it should be fairly flat.

Almost immediately after the contact of the cement with liquid glass, the chemical crystallization process begins. It passes quickly enough, but during the day one should not disturb the crystal formation in any way. Therefore, do not walk on clay, but rather leave work for a day for a technological break.

Basic layers of the "floor pie"

Sand. After a day, you should start filling the sand. That being said, try not to walk on the first layer. Add sand and step on it. Chemical processes between liquid glass and cement will go on for another week and a half. But air access is no longer needed for this, and water is present in the clay. Having poured a layer of 15 cm, feel free to step on it and tamp it.

Crushed stone. It is scattered in an even layer over the surface of the sand and is also rammed. Pay attention to the corners. It is very important that the surface is as flat as possible after tamping.

Polyethylene film. It is laid with an overlap of 10 cm and glued with adhesive tape. A small, 2-3 cm bend on the walls is allowed. You can walk on the film in soft shoes with extreme caution. Remember that plastic wrap is not, but only a technological layer to prevent the laitance from flowing into the crushed stone.

Rough concreting. Prepared "lean concrete" in the following proportion: cement M500 - 1 hour + sand 3 hours + crushed stone 4 hours. For dispersed reinforcement, add steel fiber at the rate of 1 kg. fibers per 1 cube of concrete. Try to level the freshly poured mortar using the corner marks. On a smoother surface, it will subsequently be more convenient to lay layers of waterproofing and insulation.

48 hours after pouring, the concrete must be ironed. This will require a solution of liquid glass in water (1:10) and cement. First, the solution is passed over the entire surface. You can use a roller, or you can use a spray bottle. Then concrete is powdered with a thin layer and immediately begin to rub into the cement into the surface. It is most convenient to do this with a grout.

This procedure increases the strength of concrete by an order of magnitude, and in combination with liquid glass makes it as waterproof as possible. The concrete will mature within a month and a half, but the next stage can be started in a week.

Warming and waterproofing

To create a waterproofing layer, the floor surface is cleaned and treated with liquid bitumen. Roofing material is laid with an overlap, with an allowance of 3-5 cm.The joints are carefully soldered using construction hair dryer... Wall allowance 5 cm. IMPORTANT: Make sure the roofing material adheres to the corners, do not leave voids. The second layer of roofing material is laid with an offset of half the width of the roll. During waterproofing work, it is best to walk on the surface in shoes with soft soles (sneakers, galoshes).

For thermal insulation, the most the best way- extruded polystyrene foam. A layer of EPSP with a thickness of 5 cm, replaces 70 cm of expanded clay. And additionally, EPPS has practically zero water absorption coefficient and a fairly high compressive strength. We recommend to apply 3 cm thick EPS in two layers. In this case, the laying of the top layer is performed with an offset. This method guarantees the absence of cold bridges and increases the thermal insulation properties of the floor cake. The joints between the EPSP boards are glued with special tape.

Correct thermal insulation of the floor pie is extremely important for the energy efficiency of the entire house as a whole. Up to 35% of the heat escapes through the floors! Even if the floors will not generate heat by themselves (warm floors), they should be thermally insulated as much as possible. This will save quite impressive sums on heating in the future.

Floor screed

They are glued along the room, 15-20 mm thick. In this case, the lower part must be glued to the EPSP boards. To reinforce the floor along the ground in residential premises, a masonry mesh with cells of 100x100 mm is used. Wire thickness 3 mm. The mesh must be placed on the supports so that it is approximately in the middle of the screed layer. For this, it is placed on special stands. But you can use ordinary corks from PET bottles.

Installation of beacons is possible, but in combination with reinforcing mesh, this will create a rather bulky and extremely fragile structure. After all, if the mesh is rigidly fastened, this will require additional costs for fasteners and it will be necessary to violate the integrity of the EPS. And if the reinforcement is not fixed, then it can easily change the levels of the beacons. Therefore, it will be more convenient to fill this layer and then level it with a self-leveling screed.

For the finishing screed, the solution is diluted in a proportion of 1 hour of cement M500 + 3 hours of river sand. The work is carried out promptly. To roughly level the surface, you can focus on the corner marks.

After pouring the finishing screed, it must be allowed to gain strength within 3-5 days. With a thickness of 5 cm, the maturation period of this layer will be 4-5 weeks. During this time, regular wetting of the surface with water is required.

Acceleration of the cement hydration process is unacceptable! After about a month, you can check the degree of readiness. To do this, in the evening they take a roll of dry toilet paper, put it on the floor and close it on top with a saucepan. If in the morning, toilet paper is dry, or slightly damp, then the layer is ready. You can level the floor with a self-leveling screed.

The self-leveling screed is diluted according to the manufacturer's instructions and poured onto the surface of the concrete floor. With scrupulous performance of work, the height differences do not exceed 8-10 mm. Therefore, a minimum amount of self-leveling screed is required. It dries pretty quickly. And after 1-2 days, the floor cake on the ground will be completely ready for laying the floor covering.

When planning to make a warm floor in a house on the ground, it is advisable to make the structure in two stages: first, pour a rough screed onto the lower layers, and only after it has matured, lay all the other layers on it.

The fact is that the soil and, accordingly, all layers above it can sink. Even if the soil is packed, even if it is rammed, there will be movements. He just lay there, no load. If you put a pie underfloor heating on top, and it weighs a lot, subsidence will begin, cracks will appear. It can even tear the elements of the warm floor. Then all the money will be thrown to the wind. Therefore, experts advise to first make a rough floor according to all the rules, and then lay a water floor on top. It's much safer that way.

Yes, many have a warm floor on the ground without a screed, and nothing sags. But not all and not always. So think well. A warm concrete floor on the ground will be more reliable with a rough screed. If you still decide to do without this layer, install at least two reinforcing frames: the first under the heat insulator, and the second in the screed. Then, with careful ramming, everything can stand pretty well.

An example of a floor heating pie on the ground

The first step is to determine the level to which you need to remove the soil. The soil must be removed without fail. If the humus layer or plant residues are not removed, they will begin to decompose and "smell". Therefore, whether you will make a rough floor or not, you need to clean up all unnecessary things. Moreover, the fertile layer is usually the most loose, and it will definitely settle and can pull all the layers above it. The rocks lying below are denser, firstly due to the fact that they are experiencing heavy loads, and secondly, because there are fewer living creatures and microorganisms living there.

For the entire cake of a warm floor on the ground, it can go from 20 cm or more (in some regions - much more). Therefore, you need to start marking from the zero level - where you will have the final floor. You mark it, and then consider how much you need to go deeper. At the same time, it is advisable to mark the level of each layer: then it will be easier to navigate.

Warm floor on the ground can be done by hand

The correct design of a warm floor on the ground is as follows:

• Remove fertile soil, remove all debris and stones. Level and compact the remaining soil. This must be done very carefully and adjusted to the level. This is the basis for all subsequent materials.
• A layer of compacted sand (level). Sand is taken for filling any. The main thing is to compact it well and level it again.
• A layer of expanded clay or crushed stone (crushed stone is preferable because of its lower thermal conductivity). Fraction - small or medium. We compact it for a long time and persistently until it becomes almost a monolith.
• Pre-screed. There are two options:
  • Spill crushed stone and sand with a liquid solution (sand + cement in a 2: 1 ratio).
  • Pour the rough screed. The desired thickness of this layer is 5-7 cm. And for reliability, lay a reinforcing mesh made of metal wire 3 mm, with a cell of 10 * 10 cm. Such a rough floor is more reliable. It will withstand significant loads.
• After everything is set and the concrete hardens, a layer of waterproofing is laid. If the soil is dry, it is usually polyethylene film, preferably 200 mn in two layers.
• Expanded polystyrene plates (glue the joints with tape so that the solution does not flow).
• A layer of metallized waterproofing (not foil, but metallized).
• The fastening system of the underfloor heating and the heating pipes themselves, cables, etc.
• Floor heating screed, preferably reinforced.

Read about solutions and additives for underfloor heating here.

The thickness of all layers of the underfloor heating pie on the ground depends on the region: the colder, the more. In the south, it can be 2-5 cm, but the farther north, the more massive the layers are required. Each of them compacted well and leveled off. You can use manual rammers, but mechanical rammers are much more effective.

Particular attention should be paid to the heat insulator. It is recommended to use expanded polystyrene in plates, its density is not lower than 35 kg / m3. For the northern regions, it can be 10 cm or more. If the thickness of the insulation is large (extruded polystyrene foam), it is advisable to use two layers of boards. And lay them so that the seams of the lower layer are overlapped by the slab lying on top. Glue the joints of each layer with tape.

To protect against moisture, do not forget to carry out waterproofing works with a foundation. It is also important not to forget to isolate the foundation from the entire structure of the warm floor. It is necessary to put the same polystyrene foam in the plates around the perimeter. In general, the idea of ​​hydro and heat insulation this: to reduce heat loss, you need to isolate your floor from everything except the air in the room. Then the heating will be economical and the rooms will be warm.

The choice of thermal insulation is a key point in organizing a warm floor

Process technology at high groundwater levels

If the groundwater is high, correct sequence layers - that's not all. It is necessary to somehow divert the water.

If the depth of laying the underfloor heating layers is lower than the level of soil water, drainage is required. For him, at least 30 cm below the required level, we make a system for water drainage. It is advisable to pour river sand, but such volumes cost a lot, so you can use other rocks, but not peat or black soil. As an option - excavated soil mixed with rubble.

When laying thermal insulation boards, their joints must be glued with tape so that the solution will not leak into the gap.

The selected material is poured in 10 cm layers, each of which is compacted and spilled with water. There are usually three layers, but more can be done. Lay a layer of geotextile on compacted sand or soil with crushed stone. it modern material which will let the water flow down and prevent mixing different materials... It is not damaged by insects and animals, has a high tensile strength. Also, geotextiles additionally equalize the mechanical loads that the floor will experience.

At the same stage, you need to take care of the hydro and thermal insulation of the floor from the foundation at the same time. You can use for these purposes bituminous mastic or other modern and reliable waterproofing materials and impregnations. And the thermal insulation is standard: the inner perimeter of the foundation is covered with polystyrene foam plates.

Then there are layers of sand and rubble, and on them it is poured rough screed... In this case, it is undesirable to spill with a liquid cement-sand composition. A rough screed is needed for reliability. After it dries, a layer of waterproofing should be applied. With a high level of groundwater, it is better to use not polyethylene, but welded waterproofing or polymer membranes. They are more reliable, although they are more expensive.

Underfloor heating construction

Further, all layers, as previously recommended: a heat insulator, a hydro-barrier with a metallized coating, and fasteners with underfloor heating pipes (or heating cables, for example). All this is covered with a metal reinforcing mesh and filled with another layer of mortar. And then - depending on the used topcoat for the warm floor.

Outcomes

Warm floor in the house on the ground - pretty complex construction... In order for it to be reliable, a rough screed is needed. If for some reason it is not possible to make a screed, you can, as a last resort, do with tamping the layers.

Photo gallery (7 photos):

V last years many people leave the bustling metropolises, erecting private houses outside the city. Houses built from natural materials are especially popular. After concrete walls apartment life in wooden house seems like paradise. Due to the availability of materials, the construction of such houses is much cheaper, and a healthy microclimate created by natural material, makes it easier to breathe.

But what to do if a wooden house has already been built, and under your feet, instead of the usual concrete base- unpaved floor? In this case, it is advisable to install underfloor heating, laid in a concrete screed, and powered by a boiler. And as a topcoat in a wooden house, use a laminate or porcelain stoneware tiles, since it is these materials that conduct heat best. In this way, it will be possible to make your home warm and cozy, bringing it as close as possible to the comfort of a city apartment.

Features of underfloor heating

In a wooden private house, they are increasingly used alternative systems heating, which include underfloor heating installed under the laminate.

Moreover, it is the water systems that are most popular, allowing significant savings on energy consumption.

By equipping a dry warm water floor under the laminate on the ground in a wooden private house, you can significantly reduce the cost of building a foundation, and quickly put the house into operation, providing high level comfort.

It is very important that such heating has a high degree of durability. Therefore, the only way to install it is to install the pipes of the system in a concrete screed.

Despite the seeming complexity of work on the organization of such heating, it is quite possible to organize it independently, carrying out work in several stages.

When arranging heating on the ground in a house, it is necessary to achieve the following results:

Floor heating cake on the ground

A special multilayer structure, laid under the laminate, helps to meet all the necessary requirements and ensure the rational use of the "warm water floor" system in a house powered by a boiler. So what layers does the cake of a system built on the ground and powered by a common heating boiler consist of?

Before proceeding to the direct work in the house, associated with laying layers on the ground floor, it is necessary on the surface of the walls around the entire perimeter of the room in log house draw a control line. This step is necessary in order to adjust each layer of the cake.

Only after that, you can proceed to the next stages of work, which ultimately allow you to get a dry and warm floor.

Floor heating cake on the ground

Laying the insulation cushion

The organization of heating in the form of a water heated floor on the ground, powered by a boiler, requires preliminary insulation - a pillow. And its first layer should be dry river sand of a coarse fraction.

It is poured onto the waterproofing covering the ground floor with a layer equal to 15 cm, after which it is carefully compacted wet way... If the sand is not tamped, then in the future the soil may sag.

If the groundwater is close, then the earthen floors must first be provided with a drainage system.

The next step is to lay a cushion made of large rubble or expanded clay. Moreover, it is preferable to use crushed stone, since it has a very low degree of thermal conductivity, which means that it will be more efficient to keep heat inside the cake.

It should be borne in mind that the thickness of the cushion for the "warm floor" system together with sand should not exceed 30 cm.

Filling the rough screed

To increase the strength of the structure, before starting to pour the rough screed, it is necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh. Also when installing a water underfloor heating in a wooden house you need to be guided general requirements to the length of the pipeline in the circuit: it should not exceed 100 m. Therefore, if the area of ​​the room is large, the floor must be divided into sections, laying a damper tape around their perimeter.

The thickness of the rough screed should be 10-15 cm. It is possible to exclude cracking of the rough screed when arranging heating on the ground under the laminate if you moisten it daily with water, covering it with plastic wrap. Such manipulations must be carried out within a week.

Laying waterproofing

To obtain a dry warm floor, a waterproofing layer is laid on its rough surface, which can be an ordinary polyethylene film with a thickness of 250 microns or more. However, PVC membranes will cope with this function more efficiently. It should be noted that along the perimeter of the entire room it is necessary to make a wall allowance of 15 cm, securing it with construction tape. It also glues all the joints of the film. Excess waterproofing is removed after all work is completed.

Installation of thermal insulation

To get a dry and warm floor in a private house, you can install a heat-insulating layer. This minimizes heat loss. As thermal insulation, foam plastic or extruded polystyrene plates with a thickness of 5 cm to 10 cm can be laid. last option preferable.

Thermal insulation of the base before laying pipes

Laying water circuits and finishing screed

It is necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh on the heat-insulating layer, which in this case will perform two functions:

Underfloor heating contours on the ground, laid under the laminate, can consist of various pipes... But the most popular are pipes made of metal-plastic and cross-linked polyethylene. Underfloor heating circuits are laid with a snake or snail, observing a certain step between the turns of the system.

Regardless of the way the contours are laid and their number, they are all connected to a manifold, which is installed on the wall in close proximity to the floor. Next, the system is pressurized and checked for thermal stability.

For cooking cement-sand mixture cement grade M100 is used. And the mixture itself is prepared by mixing with sand in proportions of 1: 3. The drying time of the finished floor is about 28 days, after which it will be possible to lay the laminate. You can shorten the waiting time if you use a dry method of laying the mixture.

When installing several water circuits laid under the laminate, it is necessary to use expansion joints, created by dividing areas of the room with a damper tape.

How to install a heating boiler

The most important stage in the organization of heating in a private house is the installation of a boiler of a certain power, which should be determined based on the total power of all circuits of a warm water floor and a reserve equal to 15-20%.

The circulation of the coolant in the system is carried out using a pump, which can be included in the boiler package or purchased separately. If the area of ​​the house exceeds 150 m2, in manifold cabinets additional pumping equipment is installed.

It should be noted that when installing several floor heating circuits, it is advisable to install two collectors - one for supplying the coolant, and the other for its intake.

At the same time, at each outlet from the collector, shut-off valves must be installed, which will allow individual circuits to be disconnected from the system.

To eliminate the need to drain the coolant from the system during the renovation works, shut-off valves are installed at the boiler inlet and outlet.

When the "warm water floor" system under the laminate is completely assembled and connected to the collector, all that remains is to connect the collector pipes to the pipes of the heating boiler.

The piping of the heating boiler must be carried out in accordance with the drawing, and the pipelines must be connected using factory parts.

Video: Wiring a wall-mounted boiler

Concrete flooring on the ground in a private house is a long-known universal way of arranging a reliable and warm base... Due to the use of new types of insulation, we obtain good thermal insulation of the entire floor, which leads to a decrease in costs for utilities... And also the insulation is a barrier to moisture penetration and the appearance of fungus and mold.

And the most important thing is that given view you can build the floor yourself. In this article, we will analyze all the advantages and disadvantages. Consider in detail the arrangement of the floor on the ground.

Floor on the ground: pros and cons

Let's start with the fact that this type of floor is a "layer cake". And each layer has its own functions and its purpose, thanks to such a device, the floor on the ground has a number of advantages:

There are not many disadvantages, but they are still there:

Cannot be used on unstable ground.

How to make the correct floor structure on the ground

We will consider with you the correct classic floor structure, which will consist of 9 layers. Let's analyze each layer separately.

It should be said right away that for each master and specialist, the number of layers may vary, and the materials may also differ.

This type of flooring is ideal for tape type foundation. The average thickness of the "floor pie" is approximately 60-70 cm. This should be taken into account when erecting a foundation.

If you do not have enough foundation height, then select the soil, up to a given depth. We level the surface and tamp it. For convenience, in the corners around the entire perimeter, a scale should be applied in 5 cm increments, so it will be more convenient to navigate in layers and levels.

It is important that for compacting the soil it is best to rent a vibrating plate, since manual way will take a long time and will not give the same results as a special tool.

Clay... If during the sampling of the land you have reached a layer of clay, then you should not fill in a new one. The layer thickness must be at least 10 cm.

Clay is sold in bags, we pour it out and moisten it with a special solution (4 liters of water + 1 teaspoon of liquid glass), and we tamp it using a vibrating plate. After tamping, spill a layer of clay with cement milk (10 liters of water + 2 kg. Cement).

We make sure that there are no puddles. As soon as you spill clay with this composition, the glass crystallization process begins.

You should not do anything for a day, it is worth waiting for the crystallization process to take hold, and it will end in about 14-16 days. This layer prevents the main flow of water from entering the ground.

Waterproofing layer... The task of this layer is to protect the insulation from moisture. You can use roofing material, polymer-bitumen materials, PVC membranes and polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.4 mm.

In the case of using roofing material, it is preferable to lay it in two layers, on liquid bitumen. Lay the waterproofing overlap with each other and on the walls.

Between themselves 10-15 cm, and on the walls at the height of the floor level. Be sure to glue the seams with construction tape. Walk on waterproofing material follows in soft shoes.

Insulation+ vapor barrier layer... Most best material for insulation it is extruded polystyrene foam (EPS). For reference, EPS with a thickness of 5 cm can replace a 70 cm layer of expanded clay.

But you can also use perlite concrete and sawdust concrete. Insulation sheets are laid without joints, so that one plane is formed.

The thickness is determined depending on the region, the recommended thickness of the insulation is 5-10 cm. Some use mats 5 cm thick, and lay two layers, with an offset of the seams, and the upper seams are glued with special tape.

In order to remove the cold bridges from the foundation or plinth, the insulation is laid vertically and fixed with dowels with inside... Experts recommend insulating the basement and outside, with one sheet of insulation and also fixing it with dowels.

On top of the insulation, lay a layer of vapor barrier. As vapor barrier material it is best to use PVC membranes, they do not rot and have long term exploitation. The disadvantage of this material is its high cost.

The main task of the vapor barrier material is to protect the insulation from harmful alkaline effects. concrete mortar... The material is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm and glued with construction tape.

Smoothing is performed using a rule or a vibrating screed. As soon as the solution dries, the beacons should be removed, and the cavities should be filled with solution.

The entire concrete floor should be covered with foil and watered periodically. After a month, the concrete will gain full strength. For pouring concrete with my own hands I make a solution next composition: cement + river sand in a ratio of 1 to 3.

In the case of using floor heating technology, water or electric. Be sure to install a rough floor screed on the ground.

After laying the insulation, the pipes or wires are laid. Then we fill the cavities with concrete, lay the reinforcing elements and continue pouring the concrete to the specified level.

Ground flooring technology can be used not only in brick and stone houses, but also in wooden houses. At the right approach and correct calculations, the layers do not harm the wood elements.

Finishing floor covering... The resulting concrete surface is suitable for any kind of finish flooring. It all depends on your preferences and financial capabilities.

As mentioned above, the combination of components and the number of layers can be different. It all depends on your finances and capabilities.

Conclusion

As we all know, from 20 to 30% of the heat can go through the floor. In cases where there is no “warm floor” system, the floors should be thermally insulated as much as possible, and this, in turn, increases the energy efficiency of the whole house.

The owner of a private house gets comfort, coziness and savings on utility bills. Insulated floors on ground are a highly effective and long-term choice for every owner.

The device of warm floors on the ground, allows you to get a reliable and durable floor covering. There are several design options, the choice is made based on the following factors:

• Groundwater - occurrence level;
• The presence of a coolant;
• Operational loads.

Floor construction

If the waters are over two meters, then construction of a concrete floor on the ground, will consist of a sand-gravel mixture, covered with polyethylene, on top of which a rough screed is made, covered with roofing felt and insulation. The upper layers are presented with a fine screed, reinforced mesh and a similar coating. If there is a low level of groundwater (> 2 meters), then the structure undergoes changes. After preliminary compaction of the soil, pouring is made, which consists of a sand-crushed stone mixture, additionally fastened with a solution. Insulation is laid on top, sealed with a fine screed and the same coating.

Basic elements of the pie

The design is called concrete floor cake on the ground, it is his arrangement that needs to be given special attention. Thoroughly compact the primer used for the floor covering. Several layers of crushed stone and sand filling are provided, each of them has a thickness of 10 cm.

Attention! The bedding will protect the coating from capillary moisture.

It is necessary to use coarse gravel (fraction 50 mm), as well as river sand, the layers of bedding should be carefully tamped.

The composition of the so-called "pie"

A rough screed is made on top of the bedding, it is placed on the film and has a thickness of 7cm, its reinforcement is welcomed. Here it is necessary to use fine gravel (fraction 10mm) and the same river sand. If there is a low occurrence of groundwater, then pouring is done. The bedding is poured with a specially prepared solution, and there is no need to use polyethylene. Waterproofing concrete floor on the ground is done using roofing material, laid in two layers. Floor insulation is made of polystyrene, the density of this material must be at least 30kg / m 3.

Special attention is given to the finishing screed, it has a thickness of up to 10cm. Here, fine crushed stone (fraction 10 mm) and river sand are used, this layer must be reinforced, since there will be a finishing coating on top of it.

Floor laying technology on the ground

The reliability and durability of the flooring depends on adherence to technology. Initially, the base is leveled, it is necessary to determine the zero level, to which the concrete will be poured. The surface is cleaned, and then the soil is thoroughly rammed, concrete floor thickness on the ground is 30 cm, therefore, it is necessary to remove the same layer of earth. Now you can fill in gravel, it is filled with water and rammed, sand is poured over it, and then crushed stone. Having compacted the base, it is again covered with a layer of sand, which is leveled and rammed.

Attention! Multilayer base, must be leveled horizontally.

Waterproofing and thermal insulation

Now you can equip the waterproofing, the first step is to lay the film, it is important that its thickness is at least 200 microns. The material is laid out along the entire perimeter, its edges are displayed above zero level, the sheets are overlapped, and the joints are sealed with tape. Thermal insulation layer, can be made from several materials:

• Expanded clay;
• Styrofoam;
• Basalt wool;
• Cork;
• Moisture resistant plywood.

In order for the base to acquire additional strength, it must be reinforced; this can be done using a metal mesh. It is necessary to lay the frame on a three-centimeter stand.

Pouring a concrete base

Pouring concrete requires precision, in order to avoid trouble, you should lay the guides. The room is divided into equal segments (2 meters wide), which are divided by means of guide bars, in height not exceeding the zero level. Fixation of the guides is carried out with cement mortar.

We must not forget about the formwork, which is mounted between the guides, which makes it possible to make "cards" that are subsequently poured with concrete mortar. Formwork is formed from plywood with increased moisture resistance. The formwork is leveled horizontally, in accordance with the zero level, plywood elements are processed special composition, allowing in the future, quickly remove them from the mixture after pouring.

Pouring is carried out in several passes, having prepared concrete from cement with sand, water and crushed stone (proportion 1: 2: 0.5: 4), you can make a monolithic reliable structure. The process starts from the corner of the room, the mixture is leveled manually with shovels, the coating is compacted with a vibrator.

When everything is ready, you can level the base; for this, a rule is used by which excess mixture is removed. The elements of the formwork are removed, and the concrete mixture is added to the voids. The floor covering is covered with polyethylene and left in this state for 30 days, it is regularly moistened with liquid. The finishing touch is the screed, for which a self-leveling mixture is acquired, which is straightened by the rule.

Warm concrete floor on the ground ready, it remains to lay the flooring, for which you can use any materials, from parquet, to linoleum and karmic tiles. Strictly follow the technology to get a reliable coating.

How to properly install underfloor heating on a basement floor, in a log house or in a building that will be used by you only as temporary housing, on the ground? To ensure high strength and reliability of the structure, as well as to exclude soil subsidence and reduce heat loss, it is necessary to carry out work in two main stages. On the first of them, the subfloor is poured. After that, you should wait for the screed to fully ripen and lay the so-called warm floor cake.

Fill in the rough screed

Filling the rough screed is only a preparatory stage, however, all the work listed below should be performed as efficiently as possible. V otherwise Concrete floors laid over the ground are unlikely to perform to your requirements and provide adequate heating. The following step-by-step instructions will help eliminate any problems in the future:

• to begin with, we carry out the marking on the ground and draw a control line around the entire perimeter of the room on the surface of the walls. It will help to adjust the height of each layer of screed or bedding;
• the next stage of the flooring on the ground is a thorough leveling of the soil and its tamping;
• waterproofing, for which either a strong plastic film or roofing material can be used;
• preparation of the base for the first layer of insulation, making a sand cushion, the height of which should not exceed 2-2.5 centimeters;
• laying expanded clay pillows. It is this material that is used as insulation when laying the floor on the ground;
• installation of beacons, which make it possible to fill in a perfectly flat screed. They are fixed on a cement-sand mortar made with the addition of a small amount of ceramic tile adhesive;
• filling and leveling the subfloor. It is best to make it reinforced with a metal mesh, and for concrete mortar use exclusively river sand and fine gravel.

After that, it is better to wait 25-28 days until the screed is completely ripe. But if this is not possible, you can start installing the warm floor on the ground in a week.

Floor heating cake: description of each layer

As soon as the rough screed acquires the necessary strength characteristics, we begin to lay the floors on the ground in the following sequence:

• directly on the concrete surface is a membrane or a special waterproofing film... It serves to exclude the absorption of moisture by concrete, its gradual destruction under its influence. The waterproofing layer is overlapped with the joints fastened with masking tape;
• insulation is laid on the waterproofing. It is better to use it as expanded polystyrene plates... The joints between them are also glued with tape, thereby preventing the solution from seeping into the lower layers;
• metallized waterproofing is laid, which not only provides protection against moisture, but also has high strength, which allows it to withstand a serious load;
• fasteners are mounted, as well as heating cables, pipes, infrared film - those materials that you have chosen to equip the floors heating the room;
• is established necessary equipment- thermostats, sensors, etc.
• a fine screed is poured. When installing floors on the ground, it must also be reinforced (to increase strength, a galvanized steel mesh is used that can withstand the aggressive effects of concrete).

For pouring a fine screed, it is best to use the so-called semi-dry compositions, in which plasticizers and other additives are used, allowing:

• with minimal effort to create a perfectly flat surface even when laying a warm floor on the ground;
• minimize the risk of moisture absorption by concrete;
• to increase the heat transfer of the structure due to the fact that the coating is homogeneous and practically has no voids;
• reduce the drying time of the screed due to the use of a small amount of water in the process of making the solution.

Some semi-dry mortars make it possible to lay the flooring literally a week after pouring the fine screed. However, if you have no time to rush, it makes sense to wait 28 days until it fully ripens.

Many people wonder how to arrange a warm water floor on the ground? Having step-by-step instructions to the preparation and arrangement of the entire system, the process is not so complicated. Below is brief information on what a warm floor on the ground is, what is needed and how to mount it.

The installation of a heating water structure on the ground will become a special point to reduce the cost of installing the foundation base of the house, while it is guaranteed to get a comfortable warm atmosphere at the end of the room.

So that the final structure is reliable and the base is strong the best choice there will be a concrete screed device in several layers, between which the floor heating system will be located. In general, the whole process of installing underfloor heating on top of a soil base consists of two extensive procedures: preparation of a concrete base and installation of a water structure directly for underfloor heating.

What do you need?

To prepare the soil for further work and installation of the heating structure, you will need a certain set of tools and materials.

Basic materials and tools for underfloor heating on the ground:

• coarse sand (river);
• crushed stone;
• heat-insulating material made of foil-clad aluminum;
• fasteners for the pipeline;
• damper tape;
• reinforcing mesh;
• manifold with wiring cabinet;
• building mixture for pouring self-leveling floor.

Preparation of the base

As with any work, preparation begins with cleaning the soil surface from construction debris. Then you need to decide on the level of the future floor. Measurement of a layered base under a warm floor is carried out from top to bottom. To do this, you need a cord and nails, with which a line is drawn along the perimeter of the territory, symbolizing the clean level of the floor. After that, the layers of the screed, coating, substrate and waterproofing are measured down.

Important! If there is a dangerous proximity to groundwater, then it will be necessary to make a drainage system in order to exclude unnecessary moisture penetration into the base.

The next activity on the list will be the foundation tab. The materials for its construction will be river sand of a coarse fraction and crushed stone with a size of 3 cm, laid according to the scheme to a depth of about 30 cm. The arranged base is carefully compacted with constant moisture.

In the case when the structure is located on a dry hill, a layer of litter is laid on top of the base. If drainage is required, then it is recommended to use a layer of a special material - geotextile. And already on top of the litter, crushed stone or gravel of large fractions is poured.

After the installation of the bedding and waterproofing, if necessary, a layer of insulating heat from the floor is arranged. Among the many materials, polystyrene foam with aluminum foil coating, which has low thermal conductivity, is durable and resistant to moisture, is ideal.