Warm floors have become far from a novelty. This technology is used for underfloor heating in apartments, private houses, offices and various other premises. Their principle of operation is simple - they heat the base under your feet, as well as the air in the room, which allows you to warm up any room well enough. They are usually installed in addition to the main heating system. Their installation is not as difficult as it seems, but it is quite troublesome. How to make a warm floor correctly? This process will largely depend on what type of system was chosen for installation.

Now there are three main types of underfloor heating, which differ in the type of heat carrier, and also have a different arrangement technology. However, in general, they are united by one main advantage - the heating element is installed directly into the floor cake, due to which it heats up... At the same time, the air masses in the room also warm up, but the air near the floor will be warmer, but above this border, at the level of a person's head, the air remains slightly cool, which allows you to create an optimal microclimate in the room.

On a note! In certain cases, underfloor heating can completely replace the system. central heating... But this is not always possible, and it is still not worth giving up on the main radiators.

Water based heating

In this case, the coolant is ordinary heated water, which flows inside the pipes, laid according to a certain pattern and poured with a concrete screed. The service life of such a system is approximately 20 years. Quite a reliable and safe option, but it is used either in private houses or in new buildings, where it is possible to connect such a floor. In old multi-storey buildings without permission management company connecting the water floor will not work, since the installation will involve connecting it to a central heating system that is not designed for additional loads - it can become very cold in other apartments.

The disadvantages of this design may be the likelihood of leaks and the risk of flooding in the rooms located below, as well as the tendency of some types of pipelines to corrode. Installation, of course, is laborious, but this is one of the most economical options floor. Such heating can be installed under any topcoat. However, if you want to use the capabilities of a water-heated floor as efficiently as possible, study the features different coatings... Find the perfect option will help.

Heating with cable

Such floors can be installed in absolutely any room - even in old, even in new apartments, houses, offices, etc. This option has become a real salvation for those who, for some reason, cannot make a water-heated floor. The system is quite simple to install and is a specially laid electrical cable inside the tie. It converts electricity into heat.

For the arrangement of heating can be used self-regulating and resistive cables... In the latter case, a two-core is usually used (single-core ones often become sources of radiation harmful to the body, therefore they do not prefer to use them). Self-regulating wires do not have the same drawbacks that resistive wires have. Usually, a cable floor is used if the topcoat is made of tiles or linoleum.

IR floor

This is perhaps the most popular floor heating system, since it does not require pouring a new screed, is easy to install, but the quality is not inferior to other heating options. It is represented by thin mats with carbon strips connected to each other by wires. Such floors heat up quickly, but also cool down quickly (sometimes this function is needed), very thin, allow you to quickly adjust the heating temperature, are economical in terms of energy consumption, easy to repair and completely safe for humans. Such a system also works thanks to electricity. There is a drawback - a little static and because of this - the attraction of dust to the base. Read more about infrared floor heating, depending on the topcoat, in separate articles on the portal: under the laminate, but under the tiles.

Table. Comparison of the characteristics of different systems.

Characteristic	Water floor	Electric floor
EMP presence	No	Possibly depending on the type of cable
Possibility of arrangement in apartment buildings	Only in new buildings with a separate connection	Yes
Quick control of settings	No	Yes
Depending on the heating season	Yes - in apartments and no - in private houses	No
Installation time	Long-lasting due to the need to fill the screed	Short
The ability to lay any topcoat	Yes	Certain types of flooring must not be laid on top of an electric floor.
Ease of repair	Difficult repair	In the case of infrared floors - quick repair

Prices for an electric heat-insulated floor "Teplolux"

electric warm floor thermolux

If you have not yet decided on the type of warm floor, read it. There we looked at the advantages and disadvantages in detail. different materials and made a list of recommendations.

Do-it-yourself warm water floor

Let's consider in more detail the process of work when arranging water floor heating. It includes a number of stages - this is the preparation of the rough base, the installation of the system itself, as well as pouring the screed and laying the topcoat. In this case, it will be considered a budget option creating a heating system.

Underfloor heating is a serious cost item for renovation, so it is important to calculate exactly how much and what materials will be needed. To ease your labor costs, we have prepared a description of how to calculate the warm floor - water or electric. Online calculators are included. And in the article "" you will find full list everything that may be needed during installation.

Preparation of the base

Consider how to make a rough floor for arranging a water system based on expanded clay.

Step 1. The first step is to completely dismantle the old wood floor. Planks and logs are removed. Remains of bricks and oversized construction waste can be left on the base.

Step 2. A laser level is used to determine the height of the final floor. The main reference point of the required level is the front door. The markings should be 1.5-2 cm below the threshold.

Step 3. Marking is applied to the walls. The first mark marks the border of the screed with the laid heating pipes (the screed must not be less than 6 cm thick). The second indicates the thickness of expanded clay insulation (in this case, the thickness of this layer will be 10 cm).

Step 4. Along the line laser level on the walls along the entire perimeter, marks are applied to the level of the finished floor.

Step 5. On the walls, markings are applied to two other levels - expanded clay bedding and screeds. The reference point in this case is the mark of the finished floor.

Step 6. The rough concrete floor is covered with sand, which is evenly distributed over it. You can focus on the bottom mark.

Step 8.

Step 9. The holes in the walls, left over from the logs, are sealed with pieces of brick and cement mortar.

Step 10. Waterproofing is laid on the sand layer. In this case, it is a dense polyethylene film that is installed on the walls with the plant. For convenience, the film is fixed with tape.

Step 11. Installation of beacons begins. For this, cubes from a foam block of high density are used, on which metal beacons will then be installed. The cubes are installed on polyethylene at a distance of about 1 m from each other. The height of one cube is 9 cm.

Step 12. Metal profiles-beacons with a height of 1 cm are installed on the cubes.

Step 13. At the joints of the lighthouses, a cube must be installed. For correct docking, the beacons are trimmed. At correct docking beacons overlap each other in the direction of the future movement of the rule.

Step 14. Lighthouses are set by level. Landmark - a line on the wall indicating the height of the screed. You can use plywood pads to level them.

Step 15. When the beacons are leveled, they are fixed on the cubes with self-tapping screws.

Step 16. The sub-floor should have a slight slope (the difference is up to 5 mm for each meter of the base length). If necessary, the cubes can be pressed into the sand to achieve the desired result. The operation is carried out along the entire length of the beacons.

Step 17. Additional cubes are installed between the main cubes.

Step 18. Expanded clay is mixed with non big amount cement mix... This will create a sturdier floor. A bucket of sand, 2 kg of cement and about 3 liters of water are used for a bag of expanded clay.

Step 19. Prepared expanded clay is laid out on the base and leveled. Backfilling is carried out starting from the far corner of the room. There should be about 1.5 cm of free space to the upper level of the lighthouses.

Step 20. The expanded clay layer is covered with cement mortar. The mortar is leveled with a trowel over the entire surface.

Step 21 The screed is aligned with the beacon rule. Ideal evenness may not be achieved. To make the beacons easy to remove from the screed, their surface is not smeared.

Step 22. Two days later, when the screed dries up, the beacons are removed. To do this, the screws fixing them are unscrewed. Wooden linings are removed along with the lighthouses.

Step 23. After that, the resulting cracks are cleaned of debris and sealed with cement mortar.

Piping and connection

After preparation, the installation of the heating system itself begins.

Step 1. In this case, the current heating system will be saved on the basis gas boiler... The battery is powered by a supply circuit located on the second floor. The water leaving the radiator is directed to the return circuit, which is located in the basement. The warm floor will be connected to the second outlet of the battery and to the return circuit. Taps will be installed to turn off the radiator and underfloor heating. A circulation pump will be installed at the entrance to the return circuit.

Step 2. The radiator is equipped with the necessary fittings. These are connectors and pipes. To seal the connection, sanitary flax and sealant are used.

Step 3. This is how the finished battery outputs will look like. One of them will be used to connect the warm floor.

Step 4. Before further installation of pipes, a damper tape is glued around the perimeter of the room (we have already discussed it). She sits on the walls with glue.

Step 5. Multifoil is laid on the rough screed - a special insulation. Separate strips of material are fixed to each other with adhesive tape.

Step 6. A reinforcing mesh with 10x10 cm cells is laid on top of the foil. Individual pieces are overlapped by 1-2 cells. The mesh is connected to each other using a wire.

Step 7. The pipe leading to the return is installed and connected.

Step 8. To the other outlet from the battery, a water floor pipe with a section of 20 mm is mounted. A piece of protective corrugation can be put on the initial section of the pipe.

Step 9. The pipe is laid on the floor and fixed to the mesh with plastic clamps. When laying, it is important to ensure that there are no kinks on the pipe. To shape the knees, you can use a hair dryer to heat the pipe. The distance in the loop between adjacent pipes should be about 20 cm in this case.

Step 10. The underfloor heating pipe is laid with a snake.

Step 11. The ends of the return pipe and underfloor heating are directed to metal pipes leading to the basement. Voids can be sealed with polyurethane foam.

Step 12. The sections of the metal mesh that rise above the floor level are fixed on the base of the floor using dowels and metal plates.

Step 13. Further work will be carried out in the basement. The circulation pump is being installed. It connects to the return pipe. Two cranes are also installed in the system. One of them will cut off natural circulation. The bottom valve completely closes the inlet to the return pipe.

Step 14. The regulating unit is being assembled and all pipes are connected. In the mode of natural circulation, water flows through the underfloor heating pipe into the return line with both taps open. If you turn off the upper tap, then the water from the warm floor will move along the additional pipe towards the pump - this is a mode of rapid heating of the floor. If the bottom tap is closed when the pump is off, then the warm floor will be completely turned off.

Filling the screed

The final stage of the installation of the water floor is the pouring of the screed and the laying of the floor covering.

Step 1. To make the screed even, metal beacons are installed. They are placed on concrete pieces.

Step 2. Pieces of concrete are fixed to the base with cement mortar.

Step 3. The lighthouses are fixed to the concrete with self-tapping screws in pre-made holes. All of them must be exactly level.

Advice! It is better to start installing the first beacons from the side of the door. This will allow you to more correctly select their height relative to the doorway.

Step 4. A concrete solution is prepared in exact proportions.

Step 5. The concrete is evenly distributed over the prepared floor.

Important! At the time of laying the screed, the floor pipes must be filled with water.

Step 6. The concrete solution is leveled along the beacons using the rule.

Step 7. The screed is dried within 28 days. The floor is covered with a topcoat.

Video - Installation of a water floor

Video - Installation of a warm IR floor

The complexity and the whole process of manufacturing a warm floor will depend on which heating option is chosen. A water floor is perhaps the best option for arranging base heating in a private house or new building. For those who do not want to bother with the screed, we recommend using infrared floors.

Arrangement of a warm floor allows you to save a lot on heating. Moreover, it perfectly replaces everything heating devices while freeing useful area premises. We will consider further on the technology of a water-heated floor heating device and how to make a water-heated floor.

Warm water floor in a private house - the principle of operation

The water floor is a new independent heating system that in some way replaces radiators and convectors. This system consists of built-in pipelines with hot water inside. They are laid on a base made of concrete or wood, and on top they are covered with a floor finishing material.

The pipes that make up the systems are polymeric; it is through them that hot liquid is circulated, most often water. Its filing is carried out using district heating or a boiler system. Warm air begins to warm up in the underground space and gradually rises up the room. Thus, heat is distributed throughout the room. The lower part of the room is warmer than the upper one, so it is very comfortable to be in the room.

The scope of use of a warm water floor extends to private houses, since in multi-storey buildings, there is a risk of flooding neighbors hot water, due to a breakdown of the system.

The underfloor heating system consists of a pipeline and a heat carrier mixing unit. For the pipeline, preference should be given to pipes with a high level of thermal conductivity, in addition, they should be flexible and have little resistance. To fill the pipeline, a cement screed is used - the system of the heat carrier mixing unit includes a pump, a thermostatic mixer and a manifold.

Water heat-insulated floor: advantages and disadvantages

If we compare the arrangement of a warm floor using a different kind of heaters, then the first option has the following advantages:

1. Reducing heating costs.

When arranging a warm water floor, the cost of using electricity is reduced by 25-30%. If the area of ​​the room is large enough and the ceilings are too high, then a warm water floor is the best option. Since in this case, it helps to save 50%.

2. Comfortable living conditions.

A room with a warm water floor warms up evenly, thus creating optimal and comfortable conditions for people's lives. When using radiators, the warm air that comes from them immediately rises upward, thus, the lower part of the room remains unheated. On the floor with a water floor, you do not have to walk with shoes on, and children can safely play on it without overcooling.

3. High level of security.

The coolant is located under the floor finish, so the risk of being burned or injured on it is excluded.

4. Attractiveness appearance rooms.

The warm water floor is hidden in the underground space, so all pipes and other elements of the system remain invisible.

5. Successful compatibility.

Underfloor heating works well with most finishing materials, in the form of tiles, linoleum, laminate.

6. Affordable cost.

The installation of the entire system requires a small investment in comparison with the result obtained.

7. Various options connections.

The option of connecting a warm water floor to an autonomous or centralized heating system is possible.

8. Independence from power supply.

This advantage allows the warm floor to heat the house, even at a time when the light was turned off for some reason.

Among the disadvantages of using a water-heated floor at home, we highlight:

• the time and labor costs for the installation of equipment and the entire system are quite high, since there are several various materials stacked in layers;
• in the event of malfunctions in the form of leaks, all flooring should be dismantled to eliminate them;
• the need for additional sources of heating, since an exceptionally warm floor is not able to cope with heating the room.

Underfloor heating water wiring diagrams and varieties

Depending on the main material, there are three main types of underfloor heating installation:

• concrete;
• polystyrene;
• wood.

The first option is the most popular, as it is characterized by the highest reliability. In order to equip the distribution layer in concrete version For underfloor heating, cement-sand mortar is used.

On a pre-leveled surface, a layer of waterproofing is laid, and then thermal insulation, Then the pipes are laid and fixed. To equip large rooms with warm floors, you should take care of laying a reinforcing mesh.

When arranging a small room, plastic brackets, fastening shawls or dowel hooks are used to fix the pipes.

The previously installed system is poured using a mortar of cement, sand and special plasticizers to help strengthen the screed and protect it from high temperatures.

In this case, the best finishing options are to use tiles, decorative stone or laminated parquet boards.

The second option is the arrangement of a polystyrene system. This option represents a simplified installation of the underfloor heating system, during which polystyrene plates are used. Plates are pressed in a special shape, they have the form of a convex circle, inside which pipes are installed. To create a monolithic base, there are key sections that are combined with each other. When installing this heating system, it is not required to use additional fasteners to fix the pipes. After installing the pipeline, the metal heat distribution plates are installed, then the finishing material is laid on the floor.

The third option is a floor heating system built on a wooden base. This system implies using edged boards, plywood or other wood-based materials, as a covering for the installation of the system.

Small strips are made of wooden slabs, each no more than 18 cm long. They are laid on a floor made of wood. A pipeline is mounted in the intervals between the strips, and then the heat spreaders are fixed with screws. After installing the pipes, the floor surface is covered with plastic film, then the floor is set from gypsum fiber sheets that distribute the temperature in the underfloor space. It is on them that the main finish is attached.

To ensure a good distribution of the coolant throughout the system, it is recommended to use a collector. It is to it that the outgoing and outgoing pipes are connected.

Considering the question of how to make a water-heated floor in a house, you should familiarize yourself with the layouts of the pipeline system, there are several of them:

• pipes are laid in the form of a snake;
• snails;
• combinations of different methods.

Serpentine pipe-laying involves the installation of pipes parallel to each other.

According to the scheme of the snail, the pipes are located first along the perimeter of the room, with a gradual narrowing towards the center. The latter option involves a combination of these two methods.

Calculation of a warm water floor: process features

For the calculation procedure for arranging a water-based underfloor heating, some points should be taken into account, namely:

• using the floor as the main or additional heating option;
• type of building;
• further type of finishing;
• total area and purpose of the premises;
• heat loss and their meaning.

To determine the last factor, namely heat loss, one should take into account the following nuances:

• the type of materials from which the house was built;
• type of windows: standard, single or double glazed windows;
• number of windows and doors;
• climatic features of the region;
• the presence of additional heating appliances.

Each type of room has a certain temperature to which the floor must be heated, namely:

• in the residential area, it is 29 degrees;
• in an area with high heating - 35 degrees;
• with high humidity 32 degrees;
• when finishing with parquet - 26.

Please note that before arranging a warm floor, you should foresee the type of coating that will act as a finish.

Installation of a water-heated floor: a collector and its features

A manifold cabinet is the location of a device such as a manifold. To install this cabinet, you will need a place of approximately 500x500 or 400x600 mm.

In addition, some owners of underfloor heating intend to mount the cabinet directly into the wall, while others leave it in a hinged position.

After the installation of the cabinet in which the collector is located, the installation of the supply and return pipes, through which hot and cold water flows, is carried out. The collector, which is responsible for the distribution of hot water, is connected to the supply pipe, and the return pipe is connected to the collector, which joins the end sections of the pipes.

At the connection site water pipes with a manifold, a shut-off valve is installed, which will allow the entire system to be repaired, if necessary. A drain cock is required on the other side of the manifold.

In order to quickly and efficiently adjust the temperature in the room, you should take care of the presence of a mixer and regulating screws. There are special types of collectors, which contain all the parts necessary for adjustment and operation, but their cost is much higher than that of conventional collectors.

Laying a warm water floor on a concrete base

The procedure for laying a warm hearth on a concrete base involves the following processes:

1. Carrying out cleaning and leveling of the base.

To begin with, dirt, dust and any debris are removed from the surface. Further, it is checked for the absence of drops and for evenness. If the difference is not more than 10 mm, then proceed to the next stage of the work. In the presence of more serious differences, the surface is smoothed first. For this purpose, provision should be made for the arrangement of a self-leveling sub-floor.

2. Providing waterproofing.

This step prevents moisture from entering and contacting the warm floor.

3. Installation of edge insulation.

The use of a damper tape installed around the perimeter of the room will help this process.

4. Installation of vapor barrier materials.

In order to save on materials, instead of a separate waterproofing and vapor barrier, a waterproofing membrane is used, one side of which is distinguished by a waterproof film, and the other easily allows steam to pass through.

5. Strengthening.

For these purposes, a reinforcing mesh is suitable, the cross-section of which is about 150-200 mm. It is this material that will ensure the ease of laying the pipeline system. It is possible to install the fittings before laying the pipes or after completing this process. It is better to give preference to the second option, since with the help of reinforcement it will be possible to evenly distribute the entire load on the floor.

6. Installation of a water heated floor.

First, the pipe is connected to the manifold. If a warm floor is used as the only heating element, then its installation is carried out at intervals of 150-200 mm. Otherwise, it is allowed to lay pipes with a maximum spacing of 300 mm. The pipe is connected to the mesh using special clips. Do not fix the clips too tightly, as there is a risk of damage when the system heats up.

7. System performance and testing.

Warm floors are water assembly, after their installation, they require a mandatory check for serviceability. To do this, the system is turned on for a specific time, for example, for three hours. During this process, the system should warm up, and the water should be evenly distributed over the surface.

8. Filling procedure.

The screed must exceed the piping system by 20-30 mm, the screed type must be wet.

After the screed has dried, after about a month, install soundproof materials and spend fine finishing... It is forbidden to turn on the warm floor until the screed is completely dry, as there is a risk of cracking. On this, a warm water floor with your own hands is considered ready for use.

Water heat-insulated floor video:

Making a water-heated floor with your own hands in a private house is within the power of any home master. It takes patience, careful calculations, purchasing materials and missing tools, but in the end you will have a system that allows you to regulate the level of heating throughout the floor. Consider the advantages and disadvantages of the water circuit, the rules for the selection of material, installation schemes, installation and connection.

Advantages and disadvantages of underfloor heating

Casting aside the complexity of installation, the masters agree that water-heated floors in a private house are one of the most effective systems heating. Compared to a radiator system, a water floor in a wooden house can provide significant savings in heating costs due to uniform heating over the entire area. Additional pluses:

1. Low temperature operating mode. This means that the air in the room will not dry out, it will not be stuffy.
2. No overheating of the air mass.
3. Water floor heating meets the requirements of environmental safety, sanitary and hygienic standards.
4. There is no negative impact on humans, as most of the energy is transferred by thermal radiation.
5. Installation of water-heated floors in a private house with ceilings from 3 m high gives savings of up to 30%.
6. The installation system is hidden - it simplifies the processes interior decoration premises.
7. Security. When installing a warm floor from heating in a private house, the user does not risk getting a short circuit in the electrical circuit, as is the case with electric floors - the entire system consists of pipelines, ordinary water is used as a heat carrier.

Disadvantages of a water floor:

1. Labor intensity of work. Being a system of several layers of material, the design requires careful preparation and adherence to the installation scheme.
2. Risk of leakage. To find a leaking link, you will have to lift the entire stack.
3. Involuntary weighting of the structural features of the structure. Layer-by-layer laying of materials increases the mass of floors by 10-15%, therefore, equipping a warm floor with your own hands on the 2nd and higher floors, you need to calculate permissible load to overlap.

It is extremely important, when equipping the heating system on the floor, to perform high-quality insulation buildings. In this case, having made a water-heated floor with your own hands, you do not have to supplement the heating with convectors.

Design

Before drawing up a project, you need to make sure that nothing interferes with the implementation of ideas. What you need to pay attention to:

1. Room height. The thickness of the entire underfloor heating system in a private house from scratch is 10-12 cm.
2. Doorways. When raising the floor level, it is important to maintain the height of the opening. We'll have to estimate the price of a door to order or the possibility of increasing the doorway in height.
3. Location / orientation of windows. If they face the windy side, north / west, the capacity of the system should be increased.
4. Assess the load-bearing capacity of floor beams. The weight of the entire screed system increases the load significantly.

It is not necessary to refuse heating, you can consider the option of a floor (dry) water floor. The system consists of carrier piping laid on top of the boardwalk. In this case, it is not necessary to mount the screed, it is enough to install a wooden frame on top of the subfloor, the height of which will be equal to the thickness of the insulation. Lay or fill in the insulation (sheets of mineral wool, expanded clay, sawdust), lay the boards on top, and hide the pipes with the coolant in the seams between them. From above, the raised floor can be tiled with a finishing finish.

Scheme development

The scheme is developed taking into account the parameters of the room, the technical characteristics of equipment and materials. To make the calculation, metrics and data are defined:

• floor area;
• room height;
• material of walls, floors;
• type of insulation;
• type of finish flooring.

You also need to think over the desired t ° mode. For the convenience of calculations, we present a table with indicators of the limiting t ° mode for rooms for various purposes:

/> />

Room type	t ° mode (maximum)
Living space and areas where people spend time standing	21-27⁰
Seated rooms, offices	29⁰
Hallways, corridors, halls	30⁰
Bathrooms (pools)	30-33⁰
Premises for active pastime	17-19⁰
Premises where time of stay is limited	37⁰
Edge zones of any premises	35⁰

After specifying the parameters, a diagram is drawn up, which contains the following data:

1. Installation points and dimensions of heating radiators, if any.
2. Layout of pipes with dimensions of diameter and length of straight sections.
3. Distance between elements, t ° parameters of the carrier in each pipe and the length of all circuits.
4. Power data for heating each individual room. The power of the radiator is calculated taking into account the location and length of the pipeline connected to it.

Also, the diagram should indicate the data on setting up the automation.

In order for the installation of the water floor to be successful, when drawing up a diagram, heed the advice of professionals: The diameter of the pipe affects the maximum length of the layout. For pipes 16 mm - up to 100 m, for pipes of 20 mm - no more than 120 m. The parameters are needed to ensure optimal pressure inside the underfloor heating system. If the installation scheme for a warm water floor provides for several circuits, it is easier to make them the same length with a maximum difference of 15 m. The pipe laying step should not be more than 30 cm in the center and 15 cm at the edges. In regions with severe winters, a 10 cm spacing is recommended. The spacing affects the pipe costs. The calculation is done as follows: with a step of 10 cm, 10 m of pipe will be required per m² of the area of ​​the room, with a step of 15 cm, the consumption will be 6.7 m / m². When laying the circuit on the diagram, it is necessary to bypass the installation areas of plumbing fixtures and heavy furniture. One contour covers a room of no more than 40 m², the maximum length of the side of the contour is up to 8 m. Thus, in the flooring scheme in a private house, it is important to take into account:

• pipeline layout step limits;
• limits and size of the contour;
• thermal insulation material in the areas of step reduction.

The step always decreases in the area of ​​openings, and this must be taken into account in the layout diagram.

Calculations

The standard formula for calculating the length of the circuit is: the active heating area (sq. M) is divided by the laying step (m) plus the distance to the collector and the length of the bends. For more accurate calculations, it is better to contact a specialist, but this requires an investment of money, so we make a water-heated floor in the house in stages with our own hands.

Advice: “To adjust the degree of heating of the heat carrier, thermostats are installed. The maximum gradation on devices is 55 ° ".

Detailed calculation scheme:

1. The distance from the walls is from 30 cm.
2. The definition of the number of contours is calculated by the length of the pipe per contour. When dividing the area of ​​the room by the calculation step, add 10% to the turns. Formula: L = S / N * 1.1. Designation L - pipe length, S - room area, N - layout step. Thus, on an area of ​​40 m2, when laying out a pipe with a step of 15 cm, the sought definition is the sum of the length of all circuits - 266 m.
3. When calculating the length of the circuit to the collector (one end to the supply device, the other to the opposite), multiply the final indicator by 2, and you will get the desired pipe length from the point of connection to the collector.
4. Pipeline material: for polyethylene pipes with a diameter of 18 mm, the length is up to 120 m, for metal-plastic pipes - no more than 125 m. Masters do not advise making circuits longer than 90 m in order to ensure optimal resistance of the hydraulics and the load on the coolant.
5. With a step of 30 cm, pipes of 3.4 m / m² are required; a step of 25 cm - 3 m / m²; 20 cm - 5 m / m²; 15 cm - 6.7 m / m²; 10 cm - 10 m / m².
6. If the area is from 40 m², the installation scheme is as follows: 3 circuits 100 m long, it’s easier to ensure the same heating throughout the entire area.

Advice: "The length of the circuit is measured from the point of exit from the collector, and not in the area of ​​the entrance to the room where the system is installed."

And now about how to calculate the possible heat loss. The formula is complex and requires measurements of the heat transfer of all units and structures of the house, the average precipitation, t °, air direction, and more. There are average indicators that the owner of the house can focus on:

1. In well-insulated buildings with installed sealed double-glazed windows, heat loss is 40 W / m².
2. In old houses with an average service life of thermal insulation of walls, windows, doors, the indicator is 70-80 W / m².
3. In buildings of the old type with wooden windows, without insulation, heat loss reaches 100 W / m² and more.

Advice: "If the heat loss of the building is more than 100 W / m², the installation of a water-heated floor becomes impractical."

Choice of components

To make a system of underfloor heating in your home with your own hands, you will need the following set of materials: Boiler. As a rule, they make a water floor from a gas boiler. It is cost-effective and simpler in technology. The power indicator of a gas boiler must exceed the sum of all capacities of the floor system by 15-20%. Another option is electric water floors. Convenient for laying, but unprofitable due to the high cost of electricity. Circulation pump. The instrument will allow the media to flow normally through the pipes. The boiler already has a pump, but it can handle the load if the area of ​​the house does not exceed 100 m². Pipes. The choice is this:

• copper - durable, long service life, but high cost;
• metal-plastic - strong, bendable, inexpensive and weighs little;
• polypropylene - low price, high maximum heating, but there is a high risk of buying a fake;
• PEX - XLPE pipe - reliable option if the mount is rigid and the pitch is minimal.

The calculated cross-section of pipes for dry water-heated floors with their own hands is considered to be up to 20 mm. Consumption indicator for 1 m² (step of 200 mm) is about 5-6 m. Insulation. Here the choice is:

• foil-clad polyethylene is suitable for minimum thickness floor;
• expanded polystyrene in finished mats with protrusions for laying pipes with a pitch of 50 * 50 mm;
• rock wool - cheap but impractical due to its ability to absorb moisture from the solution.

Tip: "A layer of thermal insulation above basement a private house is always made thicker. It all depends on the required t ° of the carrier: the higher the indicator, the larger the layer of insulation. "

Heat consumption meter. The device is needed for apartment buildings where a warm water floor is laid. Collector cabinet. It is necessary for the installation of control elements and for joining the pipe circuits with the heat supply main. Reinforcing mesh. The element helps to strengthen the concrete screed after the pipes have been laid, but it is possible not to apply reinforcement. You will also need components for arranging the screed:

• screed mortar (cement, sand, water);
• damper tape 10-15 cm wide;
• fasteners for fixing the pipe.

The number of elements will be prompted by a previously drawn up scheme of warm water floors from a gas boiler. If the planning work is done correctly, there will be no errors. But the circuit itself should be saved so that in case of a leak, you can quickly recall all the points of installation and fastening.

Work technology

To make a water floor, the installation technology provides for a step-by-step work algorithm:

• installation of a collector;
• preparation of the floor with the layout of the damper tape, insulation;
• layout of the contour;
• connection with leak test;
• crimping;
• screed.

After the completion of the preparatory stages, the system starts up, then turns off and you can complete the arrangement of the floors with finishing.

Mounting and installation of the manifold cabinet

When installing a water-heated floor, it is extremely important not to skip the stages of work. A step-by-step instruction on warm floors implies a detailed examination of the technology; even a novice master will not have any difficulties. A manifold cabinet is a device that contains:

• collector;
• pump;
• air vent valve;
• drain outlet.

The dimensional parameters of the device depend on the general configuration. When choosing a unit, it is necessary to calculate the installation area - it must be equidistant from all circuits. There is no way to fulfill the condition, we put the collector next to the longest pipe contour.

Important! When installing the underfloor heating system in the area where the collector is installed, it is necessary to provide a zone for bending the pipeline. The pipes are only laid from below to ensure the normal flow of the heating medium. Installing a shut-off valve between the loop system and the manifold is necessary to preventive maintenance and repair of the structure.

Preparation of the base and laying of insulation

To make underfloor heating in a private house, you need to carry out preparatory work based:

• clean the base from debris;
• remove height differences, leveling the plane as much as possible;
• lay the selected thermal insulation material;
• waterproofing (dense film) is laid on the thermal insulation;
• along the walls there is a damper tape that will eliminate the effect of thermal expansion of the concrete screed.

An equal thickness of underfloor heating is necessary for high-quality heating of the entire surface, therefore, the better the plane is leveled, the more evenly the screed layer will lie.

Contour device in different ways

Thinking over how to make a water-heated floor, you will have to take into account the area of ​​the room. The layout of the pipes depends on this:

1. Snail. The contour of underfloor heating from the heating boiler of a private house is laid out along the perimeter of the room, going to the center with a layout through a row. This scheme provides a quick return flow of the coolant and increases the uniformity of heating the area. Craftsmen prefer the "snail" in rooms with a complex shape, where it is necessary to shift the center of the pipe and in rooms with an area of ​​40 m².
2. Snake or loops. Such laying of pipes for a warm water floor is carried out from the collector along the outer wall (one), then in waves with a return back. Good layout for small rooms.
3. Meander or double snake. The combined layout scheme implies a parallel arrangement of the contours. This option organizes the movement of the coolant with different t °, compensating for the return of heat.

Important! The laying of pipes for a water-heated floor always starts from the outer or coldest wall of the room.

To facilitate the task of laying out, a beginner should draw a markup on the floor. Installation of the system with unreliable connections or pipe sections is not allowed - such a structure will not withstand a long heating season.

How to make a warm floor correctly:

1. The installation of the floor begins with a connection to the supply manifold. Only 7 cm can be retreated from the wall, but it is worth considering the small step of the layout at the outer walls. This is required to reduce heat loss.
2. Once the pipe is laid along the entire contour, it must be secured with a clamp. Dowels are suitable if you tie pipes to them with wire. Another option is to lay it on the floor reinforcing mesh by tying the contour from the pipe to it; this neutralizes the expansion of materials when heat is applied.

Advice: "A ribbed polystyrene backing, laid out under the contours of the system, will increase the thermal insulation performance and help to mount the warm floor with your own hands evenly, while maintaining the desired step."

Collector connection

It's simple: the free end of the pipe, which remains after the circuit has been laid out, is connected to the return manifold. In order not to be mistaken, you should first read the instructions for the unit.

Crimping

This is the name of the hydraulic test process necessary to check the quality of the layout. If we make a warm floor in a private house, then crimping will help to adjust the installation order and other nuances. Pressure testing is the launch of the coolant into the system under the maximum high pressure... The pressure level should exceed the design minimum by 1.5 - 2 times (from 0.6 MPa). What to look for when crimping:

1. Half an hour after starting, a decrease in the permissible pressure is possible by 10%, no more.
2. The second half hour - the indicator should not decrease by more than 2-15% from the original designation.
3. The t ° indicator of the carrier must remain unchanged.

The total check time is one day. It is better to give under the stage up to 2 days to make sure that step by step installation do-it-yourself water floor heating is made correctly, the floors are evenly warmed up and there are no leaks, loose fasteners and other defects.

Screed

Installation instructions for a warm water floor implies making a screed from cement-sand mixture which conducts heat well or classic concrete. For the manufacture of concrete, they take grade cement from M300, water, sand and 3-5% plasticizer.

Screed thickness 3-7 mm. You need to pour the ready-made solution onto the circuits filled with a coolant. In this case, the system operates in the mode specified during pressure testing. Drying time for concrete is up to 28-30 days, the period for the ready-mix should be seen on the package.

Advice: "If you need to make underfloor heating in a private house with an area of ​​40 m² or more, expansion joints must be provided."

First start

The procedure is carried out only after the screed has dried and gained strength. Now you can turn on the collector and run the coolant through the heating pipes of the warm water floor. First, the t ° indicator is set at + 25 ° С, then it increases by 10 ° С every day. The system gains the required heating parameter with a gradual increase in t ° in 2 days.

Fine finishing

Knowing how to make warm floors yourself, it will not be difficult to decorate them. Underfloor heating is laid under laminate, carpet, solid wood, under tiles - in a private house last option the most comfortable. But if the installation scheme under the tile remains the same, then laying under the laminate requires a special approach:

1. The laminate must be of high quality. The material emits volatile substances when heated, a fake will be inappropriate. Better to look at the label "Warmwasser" - this is a decor for floors with a water-heated floor.
2. Thermal insulation and waterproofing materials are not placed under the laminate.
3. To ensure ventilation, an expansion gap of up to 15 mm is left around the perimeter of the laminate. Then the gap is covered with a floor plinth.
4. Before laying the dies, lay the laminate on the floor, leaving the water circuit warm. This is necessary for a set of t ° - the lamellas will warm up and are easier to lay.

Despite the lack of difficulties, craftsmen rarely make water-heated floors under the laminate. Lamellas are characterized by low thermal conductivity, for tiles it is higher, moreover, any dies are made using chemicals. In this case, the tiles are much more practical.

Operating rules

Knowing how to professionally make a water heated floor in a house, it will be useful to follow the rules of use. The requirements are simple and affordable:

1. Warm floors in a private house, the wiring of which is made in compliance with the technology, always gain t ° gradually. By running the circuit at the maximum level after a long downtime, the owner will receive a reduction in the service life.
2. The increase in t ° of the regime should be gradual, no more than 4-5 ° C per day.
3. The indicator of the mode t ° of the incoming heat carrier is not higher than 45⁰С.
4. Frequent system start-ups and shutdowns are fraught with rapid wear and tear, but not cost savings.

To use heating with pleasure and without damage to health, it is recommended to maintain optimal mode humidity.

There are no special difficulties in the design. And knowing how to make a warm floor in a private house, the owner will be able to perform installation on the street, for example, at the entrance area, stairs, car parking.

Unlike an electric floor heating on a liquid heat carrier, it requires more complex calculations for integration into the heating system. The service life and efficiency of the system directly depend on the correct choice of materials, fittings, installation and heating operation scheme.

Selection of pipes for floor heating

In contrast to popular belief, the choice of pipes for installing a heat exchanger in the floor is not so wide. There are two options in total: XLPE and copper. The most obvious advantages of special materials are durability, deformation resistance, low coefficient of linear expansion. But the main advantage is the oxygen barrier, which ultimately prevents the formation of sediment on inner surface pipes.

The meaning of the use of copper in the high thermal conductivity of the tubes and corrosion resistance. An obvious disadvantage is the complexity of installation and a high risk of failure in the presence of solid particles (sand) in the coolant. Despite the fact that soldering requires only an inexpensive gas lamp and flux, correctly bending the coil is a difficult task. This is despite the fact that there can be several tens of turns of the copper tube, and one mistake, resulting in a break, leads to the rejection of the entire segment or the need for additional soldering.

Polymer (polyethylene) tubes have a higher coefficient of thermal expansion, in addition, they lose strength properties when heated above operating temperatures, however, in underfloor heating in principle, the coolant does not heat up above 40 ° C. Ease of installation is an obvious plus. Easy to bend and fit in a spiral or coil. The pipe is supplied in coils of 200 m each, allowing you to install underfloor heating without a single joint in the entire volume of the future screed. Most of the branded polyethylene pipes involve the use of special tools for crimping and welding.

Ensuring circulation

Hot water heating systems with underfloor heating do not work according to the gravitational principle and always remain volatile. Because of this, overheating occurs: failures in the circulation and recirculation system can supply 70-80 ° C, so the funds from saving on the use of polymer pipes should at least partially be spent on improving automation and auxiliary mechanisms.

The flow rate of the coolant in the tubes is strictly regulated by the manufacturer; assigning this task to the general circulation of the system means increasing the risk of malfunctions. A device must be installed in front of the manifold assembly. forced circulation, then each of the circuits is adjusted to adjust the required flow rate. This determines the maximum loop length of each circuit and the temperature difference at its beginning and end.

To pump water in the system, circulation pumps are used, designed for radiator heating systems. The diameter of the nozzles is determined by the required throughput of the pipe with which the pump is connected to the manifold. The lift height (or injection pressure) is determined by the total hydrodynamic resistance of pipes declared by their manufacturer for different loop configurations and bending radii. Each connection requires an increase in the lift height. Speed ​​control for underfloor heating pumps is not required, however, with accelerated circulation, more intensive pumping of the system is possible to quickly enter the mode.

Manifold assembly

When using more than one branch for floor heating, the presence of a manifold unit (comb) is strictly required. Self-soldering of the collector, even for two loops, will not give the desired result; it is almost impossible to balance the lines in the absence of uniform distribution and valve regulators.

The collector is selected both by the number of branches and by the total throughput. Essentially, it is a multi-channel flow regulator. Of the materials of the case, the most preferable stainless steel and high quality brass. For underfloor heating, two types of collectors can be used. If the difference in the length of the circuits is less than 20-30 meters, ordinary brass valves with ball valves are suitable. With a larger spread of hydrodynamic resistances, a specialized collector with flow regulators at each branch is needed.

Please note that it is not necessary to buy a double (supply + return) collector. Can be installed quality mixer with flow meters to the supply line, and to the return - a cheaper one with valve (not ball) valves. Separately, it is worth paying attention to what type of pipes the manifold unit is designed for. Most cheap products involve the connection of MP pipes, which are poorly suited for a warm floor and therefore are used less and less. For polyethylene circuits, it is better to spend money on reliable and proven REHAU collectors, for systems on copper pipes - Valtec and APE. Accession copper tubes it is recommended to the manifold through a flare and / or threaded fitting; direct brazing is not recommended due to the low maintainability of such connections.

Temperature preparation unit

The manifold itself is not the entire collector. When assembled, the mixing unit is completed with special fittings that ensure the adjustment of the water temperature before it is fed into the system. Both hot and cold water can be mixed, which fundamentally determines the specifics of the work of the two types of mixing.

A simple scheme for switching on a warm floor. 1 - three-way valve; 2 - circulation pump; 3 - ball valve with a thermometer; 4 - distribution manifold with flow meters; 5 - return manifold with control valves; 6 - underfloor heating contour. The temperature control in the circuit is carried out manually and is highly dependent on the temperature of the heating medium at the inlet.

The first type uses a closed circulation cycle, mixing hot water with a three-way valve as needed. The disadvantage of the system is that in the event of malfunctions of the automation or the use of solid fuel boilers, a large amount of hot water can be supplied at a time, which negatively affects the polymers, as well as the floor covering and the microclimate in the room. Therefore, hot water pumping is practiced mainly in systems with copper pipes.

Ready-made mixing unit for underfloor heating. The temperature control and the degree of mixing of the coolant are carried out fully automatically.

For polyethylene circuits, more expensive collectors are preferred, mixing cold water from the return to reduce the incoming temperature. The complexity of such mixing units is due to the presence of an additional recirculation pump. Regulation can be carried out either by an adjustable two-way valve or by an electronic thermostat that controls the speed of the pump motor. The latter is an example of the struggle for accuracy and reduction of system inertia, by the way, very successful. However, such systems are volatile.

Whether to take the collector assembly is a controversial issue. Of course, the availability of a guarantee is an obvious plus, but it is not always possible to find a model with the necessary piping and the number of taps, in such cases you will have to assemble the device yourself.

Insulation and storage layer

The cake of a water-heated floor is as follows: polymeric foam insulation, heating pipes and a heat-accumulating screed in the order from bottom to top. The thickness and materials used for the base layers must be selected in accordance with the operating parameters of the system.

Insulation is selected taking into account the planned heating temperature, or more precisely, the temperature difference between the warm and the subfloor. They mainly use EPS or PPU plates with butting edges. This material is practically incompressible under distributed load, while the resistance to heat transfer is one of the highest. The approximate thickness of the polymer insulation is 35 mm for a temperature difference of 30 ºС and then 3 mm for every 5 ºС.

Methods for installing a warm floor in a private house. Three options for fastening and distributing pipes are proposed: A - Use of special mounting mats for a warm floor. B - Installation on a reinforcing mesh with a step of 10 cm using plastic ties. C - Laying pipes in prepared gutters in insulation using reflective screens. Constructive execution underfloor heating: 1 - concrete base rough floor; 2 - insulation; 3 - damper tape; 4 - concrete screed; 5 - floor covering; 6 - reinforcing mesh.

In addition to protecting the pipes from damage, the screed regulates the inertia of the heating system and smooths out the temperature difference between the floor areas directly above the pipes and between them. If the boiler operates in a cyclic mode, the heated concrete will give off heat, even if there is temporarily no hot water supply. In case of accidental overheating, the heat-absorbing screed will provide temperature removal, eliminating pipe damage. The average screed thickness is 1 / 10-1 / 15 of the distance between adjacent pipes. By increasing the thickness, you can get rid of the thermal zebra effect with sparse piping. Naturally, the consumption of materials, as well as the inertia and time for the system to reach the mode will increase in this case.

When installing underfloor heating on the ground, it is necessary to pour 15-20 cm of an incompressible layer of ASG. Crushed stone can be replaced with expanded clay for additional thermal insulation. On insulated frame floors, the underfloor heating can be laid immediately on top of the waterproofing agent, which covers the subfloor in order to avoid the release of cement milk from the screed. V best case a layer of thermal cut-off made of polyurethane foam or EPS of 20-25 mm is arranged under the tubes. Even such a thin layer is enough to eliminate the cold bridges presented by supporting structure floor, and also to distribute the load from the screed.

Installation nuances

Installation of a water-heated floor should be carried out according to a pre-planned scheme. The collector requires a place equipped for installation, it can be either a boiler room or a compartment hidden in the wall. The rationale for installing intermediate headers depends on whether savings are achieved compared to laying pipes from a central distribution unit, and also whether such an increase in the length of the largest loop is admissible. It is recommended to supply pipes to heating zones in rooms that do not require targeted floor heating: storerooms, corridors and others like them.

Fasten the underfloor heating pipes only to a special installation system. Perforated tape or mesh provides precise adjustment of the installation step, reliable fixation during the mixture solidification and the gaps necessary for the temperature solution.

The fixing of the installation system to the floor is carried out through the insulation without significant pressure. You need to fix it in the holes formed after bending the petals to crimp the tubes. Thus, the attachment points are located closest to heating elements, which excludes their ascent, displacement or lifting of the entire system when pouring concrete.

Warm water floors in a private house have been installed for a relatively long time, and during this time they managed to show their advantages and disadvantages in practice. Progress does not stand still, at present fundamentally new floor heating systems are emerging, but water systems still do not lose their attractiveness among developers. When choosing a specific solution, you must carefully analyze the actual features of the structure, weigh your desires and capabilities.

The more factors are taken into account during the development of wiring diagrams, the better they cope with their direct responsibilities, the higher the efficiency, the lower the cost of maintaining a house during the heating season. In addition, the reliability and durability of the system is increased, and this is very important indicator... You need to know that the planned or emergency repair of warm floors with a water coolant requires a lot of time and financial resources, in difficult cases repairing leaks may exceed the estimated cost of building new floors.

When planning the wiring diagrams yourself, there are several parameters to keep in mind.

1. The quality of insulation of structural elements of the premises. Here you need to pay attention not only to warmth specifications bases and floor insulation, but also by the amount of heat loss of walls, windows and ceilings. Depending on these values, a decision is made on the power of the circuit, the step between the pipes, the temperature of the coolant at the inlet and outlet. At the same time, you should calculate whether the power of the warm floor is enough for the main heating of the room or it can be used only as an additional one. The decision is made for each climatic zone, taking into account the minimum temperatures in winter period time and for each room separately, depending on the microclimate indicators recommended by state sanitary organizations.

   

2. The geometry and dimensions of the premises. Each room has its own zones, the decision to install a heating system under them is made on the spot. It depends on the characteristics and layout of furniture, types of finishing flooring, etc. If for additional heating the loop pitch is within 20-30 cm, then for the main one it decreases to 10-15 cm, and only one assembly room can be used in the room. scheme or a combination of two options.

   

3. Level of placement of doorways. If the house is being built according to the project, then all dimensions in it are given with reference to the level of placement of the finishing floor covering, this is the zero point of reference. Everything above the floor is indicated by a plus sign, and everything below is indicated by a minus sign. There is no need to solve any problems on your own, you just need to accurately carry out the installation drawings, they are included in the project kit. The calculation has to be done if the work is carried out without drawings - in these cases, before starting the installation, it is necessary to agree on the height of the floor pie with the existing ones doorways v interior partitions and facade walls.

   

Based preliminary calculations the power of the heating boiler is selected.

Each house has its own characteristics that have a direct impact on the choice of the scheme. But there are also general recommendations, the implementation of which increases the efficiency of use and minimizes the negative consequences of possible accidents.

1. In all cases, it is not recommended to install underfloor heating under heavy overall furniture. This is one of the major disadvantages of all underfloor heating systems. The fact is that over time, furniture can be thrown away or its location can change, warm floors create big problems when performing such permutations.

   

2. It is considered impractical to do heating near the walls. There are no people in such zones, there is no need to waste in vain thermal energy... But these tips are very individual, experienced installers consult with customers before making a decision. It must be remembered that performers can only give advice, the final decision is always made by the customers.

   

3. Division of large rooms into several sectors. It is recommended to make at least two water heating circuits for a room with an area of ​​more than 30 m2. This recommendation is explained simply - in very long pipelines, significant eddies appear, which create additional resistance to the movement of fluid flows. As a result, the load on the pumps increases, they work with critical loads. And any engine with long work at maximum loads, it dramatically consumes its resource and quickly breaks down.

   

4. It is not necessary to regulate the temperature of floor heating by changing the distance between the pipes. It is recommended to make this parameter the same in all wiring diagrams. If you do not follow this recommendation, then it is very difficult to regulate the floor temperature in the premises from a single control panel for the heating system.

   

Important. Each plastic pipe has a minimum bend radius, this value should be taken into account when choosing a wiring diagram.

The bending radius is indicated in the manufacturer's instructions, experienced installers advise increasing it if possible. The smaller the radius, the more vortices the fluid flow has, the higher the total resistance with all the negative consequences.

Types of wiring diagrams

The layout of pipes for the heating system should be drawn up slowly. Errors can cause very unpleasant problems during the operation of a building, and their elimination is an expensive and difficult task. It is far more expedient to anticipate the consequences of decisions several steps ahead. Currently, professional floor heating installers recommend using three schemes. Each has its own characteristics, strengths and weak sides... The final decision should be made only after a careful analysis of all factors.

Table. Water floor contour options

Outline circuit type	A brief description of the features of the arrangement and operational characteristics
	Feature - the pipes are laid in a double spiral, which copies the geometry of the floor of the room. The first turns are made with a double step, the return line reduces this size by half and brings it to the recommended values. Advantages of the wiring diagram - material consumption is minimized and uniform heating of the room is ensured. The downside is the complexity of installation, on the basis it is necessary to make a preliminary marking.
	Most often used in non large rooms rectangular shape. Allows you to accentuate individual heating zones. Disadvantages - a significant difference in floor heating temperature at the inlet and outlet of the coolant.
	The most complex design, it is recommended to use it in large rooms that have unheated areas. It makes it possible to install underfloor heating with different heating temperatures for individual zones, and reduces the percentage of inefficiently used pipes.

Important. The choice of the system connection method should take into account the type and specifications of the wiring diagram.

Ways to connect the underfloor heating system

Four connection diagrams of heating systems are used, each has its own requirements and capabilities. Due to the correct solution of the issue, it is necessary to achieve following parameters heating system.

1. The temperature of the coolant should not exceed + 55 ° C, otherwise warping of floor coverings is possible, and materials made of natural wood will crack. In practice, it is recommended to limit heating to + 35–45 ° С.

   

2. Even when connected to a communal heating system, the wiring diagrams must have a separate circulation pump. Only with its help it is possible to accurately maintain the specified parameters of the functioning of heating systems.

   

3. The dimensions of the circuit should provide for a temperature difference at the inlet and outlet of the coolant of no more than 10 ° C. Otherwise, uneven heating of individual sections of the room will be noticeable. The surface temperature, taking into account the purpose of the room and the type of heating, should fluctuate within the range of + 26–31 ° С.

   

4. The speed of movement of the liquid cannot exceed 0.6 m / s. This is due to the fact that high speeds of movement of the coolant increase the risks of leakage due to additional loads on all connections.

   

System connection directly from the heat generator

It can be either a gas or electric boiler, or a solid fuel boiler, the main condition is that the equipment power must be at least 25–30% higher than the floor heating power at maximum loads. Hot coolant from the boiler enters the distribution manifold of the system and then to each individual circuit. The boiler has its own pump and a manual or automatic control unit.

Important! For such a connection scheme, it is strongly recommended to install a special condensing boiler for return cooling. The fact is that for all types of boilers, a low-temperature mode of operation is considered optimal - the container heats up less, more heat energy is given off by the products of fuel combustion.

One more nuance. If you are using solid fuel boiler, then it is imperative to install buffer storage tanks. They function as thermal accumulators and equalize the outlet water temperature. V solid fuel boilers it is structurally impossible to constantly keep the water temperature in the parameters that are optimal for the heating system. The fuel burns with different intensity, respectively, the water in the boiler either increases or decreases the temperature.

Connection to the common building heating system

Quite a controversial option, in many cases special permission from the management company is required, and they are very reluctant to give them, and not only for subjective reasons. The fact is that during the design of the structure, the connection additional consumers heat energy is not provided, all elements of the system, from the diameters of the central main pipes to the distribution of apartments, cannot provide optimal water movement. As a result, there are high risks of a complete imbalance in the heating of an apartment building.

If you have been able to obtain this approval, then an individual underfloor heating system can be connected using a three-way valve. The water in the central heating batteries is heated up to + 70–80 ° С, such a hot heat carrier cannot be supplied to the system. How to lower the temperature? By means of a three-way valve, the cold return is mixed into hot water... Temperature and quantity are automatically controlled. After mixing, the heat carrier is, according to its parameters, suitable for filling the underfloor heating system and everything works in the recommended mode.

The disadvantage of this method is the presence of temperature fluctuations in heating, which has Negative influence on the comfort of staying in the premises.

From mixing unit

Such units are necessarily equipped with self-contained pumps, without them it is very difficult to regulate the temperature of the coolant. There are no fundamental differences in functioning with the above-described method, only the set of control valves differs. The device has special valves that regulate the amount of mixed chilled water. The adjustment is carried out taking into account the temperature, due to such a device, the parameters of the coolant at the outlet can be stabilized.

Depending on the model of the unit, it may include a bypass with a bypass valve, Ball Valves or a balancing valve in the inlet.

Connection for each individual hinge

The so-called thermal assembly kits. Small boxes, inside which there are limits for the temperature of the water of the carrier and the air in the room. They are connected to central heating batteries, they can provide heat to small systems with an area of ​​no more than 15 m2. Advantages - low cost, ease of connection and maintenance, the ability to operate from any battery. There is one drawback, but a very significant one - the temperature of the coolant in the floor heating system is exactly the same as in the battery. It is recommended to install in loggias, corridors, bathrooms and technical rooms, in which it is not required to maintain stable microclimate parameters.

On which option to stop, the owner of the house decides. If you do not have sufficient knowledge, then it is recommended to consult with professionals.

Errors when connecting wiring diagrams of a warm floor

No correct calculation of the wiring diagram will give a positive effect if technical errors are made during the installation work.

Incorrect calculations of heat losses

These are important initial data, without fail taken into account when installing any type of heating, not just floors. The calculation is complicated from an engineering point of view; not every ordinary installer can perform them. You need to know not only the formulas, but also be able to use SNiP, special tables and scientific literature. It is very difficult to guess the values ​​by eye, as a result, it turns out that the underfloor heating system works ineffectively: it is very cold in the room, or vice versa, the efficiency decreases noticeably. In addition, if the loads on the elements of the system are critical, then it quickly fails, and this entails significant financial losses. The pipe step must take into account the amount of heat loss, it affects the amount of additional heat supplied to the premises. Beginners cannot do such work; you need to contact a certified specialist.

Poor thermal insulation of the subfloor

Inexperienced installers believe that the heat is already rising up into the room, there is no need to waste time and effort on work on thermal insulation of the base. This is a very serious misconception and significantly reduces the efficiency of water-heated floors. Why? Approximately 85% of the heat energy from a hot body to a cold one is transferred during direct contact. This is the so-called thermal conductivity, and the higher the density of the bodies, the higher the values. And only ≈ 10% of thermal energy is transferred by air (convection). This means that while the air in the room heats up, a significant part of the heat will go to heating the floor slabs.

Lack of dampers

A cement-sand screed must be made on the heated water floor; it protects thin plastic pipes from deformation. Concrete has high coefficients of thermal expansion, if no dampers are provided around the perimeter of the room, then the screed will abut against the walls with great effort.

Accidental leaks of the water floor heating system are an extremely undesirable consequence of assembly defects.

Long contours, incorrectly selected schemes

The longer and more convoluted the pipeline, the greater the hydraulic resistance. The entire system is serviced by one pump; water is supplied to each circuit under the same pressure. With a large difference in the resistance of the circuits, the floor temperature in each room is also very different. And if the room is large in area and a combined scheme is chosen for it, then the difference in heating of individual sections will be felt in it.

Output

Warm floors with water heating are now deservedly considered an outdated design with a lot of flaws. Mount more than modern systems, they do not have the above problems and disadvantages.

Prices for warm floors Caleo

warm floors Caleo

Video - Water heated floors: wiring diagrams in a private house

You have learned which wiring diagrams are recommended for underfloor heating in a private house. The comfort of staying in the premises largely depends on the correctness of the selected options; they change the actual efficiency. How do the finishing materials affect this indicator, are there any restrictions on their use? These and other questions are fully disclosed in the article on the pages.