Among existing options heating country house the simplest and most economical is the construction of a system for heating air masses inside the room from below, or a warm floor. The market offers many alternatives, forcing the owners to look for answers to the questions: which system to prefer, how best to make a warm floor in a private house, and whether it is possible to carry out the installation yourself.

For country cottages with an autonomous boiler room, it will be cheaper and more convenient to use water system heating air masses from the bottom of the room. The locality of the network will make it possible to regulate both the temperature and pressure of the coolant in the pipes, and its speed, quality, and costs. And this will affect the life of the entire system, its efficiency and the ability to create optimal comfortable conditions... It is possible to organize an auxiliary heating system when connected to a centralized network. But how effective such a water floor will be in a private house is difficult to judge, since the inclusion of an auxiliary system:

For these reasons, electric or infrared floor heating in a private house connected to centralized heating, or an apartment would be more appropriate. With autonomy heating system it is wiser and more practical to choose water heating floors. Let's figure out in detail how the system works and how it works. And also we will find out the question of how to make a warm floor in a private house without the involvement of specialists.

The principle of operation of a warm floor in the house

The auxiliary system for heating air masses from the bottom of the room consists of:

The photo shows a diagram of a water-heated floor in a private house, taking into account the radiator system. The latter will be needed in very coldy as the surface temperature of the floor must not exceed:

• 27-330С in a bathroom or a bathroom;
• 21-270С in the kitchen;
• 24-290С in the bedroom, living room and other living rooms;
• 300C in hallways, corridors, lobbies, etc.

At this temperature of air masses on the floor surface and temperature environment outside the window below -100С create during indoor areas cottage comfortable living conditions are impossible. Temperature calculations were carried out taking into account the effect of underfloor heating on human health with a long stay in the room and high temperatures for performance characteristics floor coverings.

The above diagram shows how to make a water-heated floor with your own hands in a private house, but its principle of operation is not told. It is extremely simple. The water is heated by the boiler to 75-900C and is supplied to the mixing unit with the help of a pump. Here there is a decrease in the degree of the coolant from the "return". The mixing process is carried out by a three-way valve. The coolant cooled to 45-550C is supplied by a pump to distribution unit, collected from the collectors to which the contours of the warm floor are connected - pipes. The feeding type of equipment sends the hot substance into the loop of the system. Having given up its heat, the coolant returns to the collector of the reverse type, then to the boiler.

The question of how to make a warm floor from heating in a private house of a given temperature in each room remained unclear. This requires a servo. It is mounted in the socket of the reverse type collector. The device will provide automatic regulation of the degrees of the substance in the system by closing and opening (the processes are determined by the thermostat) the passages to the circuits. The equipment is also designed to reduce the load on the system. The servo drive works smoothly and silently, therefore water hammer is completely excluded. Here it is worth considering one nuance. If you are interested in how to make a warm floor from heating in a private house with two circuits, then 2 servos will have to be included in the circuit. The device is installed for each hinge separately.

Installation of water-heated floors in a private house on a concrete screed

The organization of the water system involves laying pipes for supplying the coolant directly to concrete screed... Can be used sand-cement mortar, but with the scheme of the underfloor heating system in a private house, which is given above, it is much worse compatible. The construction device will be as follows (as it is installed):

• Concrete screed or floor slab;
• Hydro insulating material... If the water floor in the house spreads over the ceiling, then insulating layer you don't have to lay it down, because intimacy groundwater No;
• Heat insulating material. It is recommended to use expanded polystyrene, but you can also lay styrofoam. But it must be borne in mind that the foam will be subjected to a load of at least 20-23 kg / m2. This means that its density should be more than 20 kg / m3. In order to avoid deformations, it is better to buy a slab with a density of at least 35 kg / m3 and even more.

An important point in figuring out how to make warm floors in a private house is correct choice materials for the floor cake. It is made taking into account the loads and operating standards. Therefore, if a more practical polystyrene foam is chosen as thermal insulation, its thickness should be over 20 mm. It is better to choose a slab with a thickness of 115 mm, otherwise you will have to solve the problem of how to make the warm floor in the house more efficient. The thicker the insulating material, the less heat leakage will occur. Density of the slab - 32-45 kg / m3 or more;

• Waterproofing. An excellent option for a warm floor in a private house there will be polyethylene, which is rolled over the surface in two layers. Material thickness - 110-155 microns;
• Reinforcing mesh with a rod diameter of 4 mm. Its fastening is carried out to a concrete screed or floor, and not to insulating materials. Otherwise, the immobility of the system cannot be guaranteed;
• Pipes. Understanding how to make a warm floor in a private, take an interest in the concepts - the materials for the production of pipes, the diameter of the pipes and the length of the circuit. The optimal product is considered to be a pipe with a diameter of 16 mm (when servicing an area of ​​more than 50 m2). With such a product, the length of the contour must be made within 70-90 m.If the room is larger, 2 or more contours are laid or pipes are bought larger diameter... For the parameter 17 mm, the length of the contour is 90-105 m, for the parameter 20 mm - 120 mm.

The well-known technology of laying a warm water floor in a private house also involves calculating the step of installing pipes. It can vary from 10 to 30 cm. In the coldest zones it is recommended to make it no more than 100-150 mm, in the central zones - 200-300 mm. The smaller the step, the warmer it is in the zone. But when organizing a heating system in a private house in the floor, it is worth remembering that pipes, for example, made of metal-plastic, will be extremely difficult to bend without kinks and bends. Therefore, the styling scheme, the number of contours and the step should be carefully thought out;

• Concrete screed. After fixing the pipes for the coolant with plastic clamps to the reinforcing mesh (use from 2 to 4 clamps on running meter) the base is poured with concrete. The layer thickness must be at least 50 mm (calculated from the upper surface of the pipe) when using pipes with a diameter of 16 mm. A thickness of 10 cm is allowed.If you are looking for an answer to the question of how to make water heating of a floor in a private house with your own hands according to a scheme using pipes of a larger diameter, then keep in mind that the screed layer must be larger. But then the level of the floor will rise;
• Substrate. When arranging warm water floors in a private house, it is better to use thick cardboard, cork, polyethylene foam. They are environmentally friendly and do not emit odors, toxins when exposed to high temperatures;
• Finishing floor covering. Correctly mounted water heat-insulated floor in the house goes well with ceramic tiles, laminate, parquet, linoleum.

This should be the device of a warm floor in a private house and apartment - the installation technology and materials do not change. The minimum height of the floor cake will be 140-150 mm, but it can be more. If raising the floor level to this height seems impractical, it is wiser to install other types of warm floors in a private house - cable, infrared film, thermomats.

How to make warm floors from water heating in a private house correctly?

To ensure that an organized system does not become a disappointment and a waste of money during operation, the following points must be taken into account at the design stage:

Below are the wiring diagrams laying a warm water floor in a private house on the ground floor. Please note that in colder areas, the step is smaller.

How to fill a screed underfloor heating in a private house: proportions and materials

If water-heated floors in a private house are laid on a concrete floor with their own hands, then, most likely, the screed solution will be prepared independently. You will need one weight part of M 300 or 400 grade cement, plasticizers, additives and fine-grained crushed stone with sand, or better screening. The main components are taken in proportions of 1: 6 - one part of cement and 6 parts of screening. When using crushed stone and sand, the proportion will be 1: 4: 3.5 - one part of cement to 4 parts of crushed stone and 3.5 parts of sand.

If, figuring out how to make a warm floor from heating in a private house with your own hands, you do not want to waste time mixing the solution, you can use ready-made dry mixes. They are bred according to the instructions on the packaging, which makes it easier and faster to work. There is no need to add plasticizers and additives to ready-made mixtures.

The correct choice of a solution for a screed when considering how to make a warm floor yourself from heating in a private house is extremely important. So, for example, a cement-sand screed will have less strength and lower heat transfer than a concrete screed. Therefore, experts recommend using concrete, which, moreover, is also less susceptible to cracking during cooling and subsequent heating.

Now we will master the principle of how to properly fill in a warm floor in a private house after installing the pipeline:

When pouring the solution, the screed must be carefully tamped. You can use special Building tools, but you can also use a regular rake, a mop with a rag. This procedure is necessary in order to expel air pockets, the presence of which makes water heating of the floor in a private house less efficient.

Do-it-yourself water-heating floor in a private house: step-by-step instructions and technology

Having studied the device of a water-heated floor in a private house, we carry out direct installation with our own hands. He should follow a simple technique:

• Preparation of the base. If the walls and ceiling have not yet been plastered, it is better to carry out this procedure before installing a warm water floor in a private house with your own hands, otherwise it will be difficult to get rid of construction debris on the surface. This is extra work.
• Laying waterproofing.
• Installation of a damper tape around the perimeter of the room.
• Filling the rough screed. If you are installing a warm water floor in a private house with your own hands, then you should take into account that the following stages of work can be carried out after the layer of the rough screed gets stronger. Do not lay the floor cake on the material with a moisture content of more than 80%. Otherwise, excess moisture will lead to cracking of the floor screed.
• Installation of thermal insulation. When installing a warm floor in a private house with your own hands, do not forget to tape the insulating material with tape in order to avoid movements and layers. The joints in the bottom row should be overlapped with solid areas of the sheets in the second row.
• Layout of plastic wrap. The material must cover the entire surface area of ​​+50 mm at each wall. This surplus, if you want to make a warm floor from heating with your own hands in the house, reliable and durable, tamp it carefully (you cannot damage the damper tape) with a spatula between the cake and the wall. If the film is laid in pieces, they are overlapped and glued with tape.
• Reinforcement device. When figuring out the process of how to make floors under a warm floor in a house, you need to remember one rule - there should be no progress. The mesh cells must correspond to the pipe spacing. This will make them easier to fix.
• Layout of pipes and their fixation. The operation is carried out strictly according to the selected installation scheme for a warm floor for a private house with accurate fastening and bending of pipes.
• Installing the collector.
• Connecting pipes and system to the boiler.

After a self-made warm water floor is connected to heating in a private house, and the concrete layer is completely dry, you can warm up the surface. Installation with concrete base long-term and painstaking. It should be started in the summer so that all layers of the floor cake dry well. V otherwise the base will crack and damage the system. If there is no time to wait, it is better to mount a warm floor from heating in a private house on wooden or polymer mats. The styling procedure will take no more than 3-4 days. If the given step by step production Do-it-yourself floor heating in a private house, left questions, which means that the procedure for installing and designing the system is better left to professionals. Call us for a consultation!

The issue of organizing heating is the most important for everyone building their home. Of course, if you exclude the inhabitants of the tropics, where the problem is diametrically opposite. It is estimated that a water floor can save up to 20% on heating costs. But only if you do it right!

Where to start the process of installing a warm floor?

Of course, with calculations! And very detailed - the wrong choice of laying pitch or pipe diameter will lead to forever cold rooms or streaks of heat on the floor. And given that the system is literally "embedded", the cost of rework will exceed the installation of a new warm floor.

How to calculate the warm floor correctly?

It is quite difficult to do this manually, so it is better to use one of the special programs, for example, Valtec. It is a multifunctional program for calculating heating, water supply and hydraulics.

• accurate data on premises - floor and wall area, size of door and window openings;
• wall, floor and even ceiling materials;
• arrangement of furniture that will not move - sliding wardrobes, kitchen sets, shower cabins, etc .;
• desired indoor temperature;
• the presence and thickness of the carpet.

The advantage of using the programs is the simplicity of calculations. By simply entering the necessary information into the appropriate cells, you can get the calculation at the output:

• heat loss in each room;
• heat load - heat inflow, which will give a warm floor in each room;
• hydraulic resistance of the entire system in a private house;
• the amount of all materials required for underfloor heating.

What you need to know to organize a warm floor?

Before you start buying materials, you need to take into account all the nuances. First, it is the diameter of the pipes. Don't take too big, 16mm is enough. A pipe of this diameter allows you to make a step of at least 10 cm without a crease on the bend when laying with a snake. But the maximum pipe length cannot exceed 90 m.

Secondly, this is the step of laying pipes - ideally, it should be within 10-20 cm, and must be a multiple of 5. Near the outer walls and windows, the step is smaller, and near the inner ones - more.

Under heavy furniture that is firmly attached to the floor and placed near interior walls, you can start laying the hinges at a distance of 1 m from the walls. Also, do not lay pipes under floor-standing toilet- drilling holes for fasteners can damage the floor system.

Thirdly, it is the length of the pipes. It must be the same for all circuits connected to the same collector. Of course, in practice, this is unrealistic to achieve, so you need to reduce the difference to a maximum of 10 m. large rooms you will have to lay two contours, in small ones - reduce the laying step. At the same time, it is not recommended to connect more than 9 circuits 90 m long to one collector - it is better to split them into two devices.

Pipes cannot go up from it, so another collector will have to be installed on the second floor. If the collector is on outside wall, the outgoing pipes must be insulated.

Laying underfloor heating in a concrete screed

1. The collector cabinet and the collector itself are mounted, to which the pipes will be connected. If necessary, holes are drilled for the output of pipes.
2. A damper tape is glued to the walls along the entire perimeter, as well as between the contours, if they are within the same room. It compensates for thermal expansion of the floor and serves as insulation for the cold wall. The width should be 15 cm or more - depending on the thickness of the “pie” of the warm floor.



3. Insulation is laid on the concrete base. For the first or basement floor without a heated basement, it should be from 5 cm thick, on other floors - from 3 cm. It is necessary to insulate the concrete slab of the second floor in order to reduce the heat consumption for heating this very slab. Does not matter warm air rises up and the ceiling will not heat the lower rooms.



4. Waterproofing is laid on the insulation and laid reinforcement mesh.
5. Now you can start laying pipes - from outer wall to the inside, if the “snake” method is chosen, or from the walls to the center, if the pipes are laid “snail”.
6. The coils can be fixed either with special fasteners, or with ordinary plastic screed to fittings. In the latter case, it must not be tightened tight!



7. After connecting all the circuits, a test run of the heating system is done - it must work at maximum pressure and operating temperature for 24 hours.
8. If there are no leaks or other malfunctions, the screed is poured. Under the tile, it can be made thicker - up to 5 cm, and under the laminate, which accumulates and conducts heat poorly, you should not make it more than 2 cm.In this case, the screed is reinforced with a second layer of mesh laid on top of the pipes.



9. It is important not to forget to water the concrete every day, because it gains hardness when it comes into contact with water. Flooring spread after 28 days, after the screed has completely solidified.

If the house is wooden or frame, and load-bearing floors not designed for the weight of a concrete screed, you can arrange a floor heating. Its advantage is the absence of a "wet" process, so immediately after installing the system, you can enjoy the warmth in the house.

Another undoubted advantage of this solution is the small thickness of the cake and the possibility of laying it on an old wooden floor. How to easily do this is clearly shown in the video:

Underfloor heating is now one of the most commonly used ways to create heating in a private house, since it can act as independent heating, even in, and will save you from bulky heating.

1. Aquatic;
2. Electric, which, depending on the type heating element are divided into:

• film;
• rod;
• cable.

By heating method electrical systems are divided into:

• convection;
• infrared.

The creation of warm floors in the house significantly reduces, since you can turn on each heating circuit separately. Thus, you can simply disconnect unused rooms from heating.

The principle of operation of the water floor scheme

In a private house, it is laid under the floor in a parallel or spiral laying pattern. Water circulates through the tubes, which transfers and evenly distributes heat to the material laid near them. All this heats the floor. The choice of heat transfer material depends on the floor.

Installation work plan

Before installing floor heating, you need to draw a plan - a grid on which the entire heating system will be reflected. When drawing on the project plan for laying water pipes and planning the layout of the heating circuit, it is necessary to take into account that:

• there should be a distance of 0.2 - 0.25 m between the pipes and the wall;
• the interval of the annular gap - 0.35 - 0.5 m;
• the pipe extending from the riser is laid along the window;
• the density of pipes increases at the outer walls, and decreases towards the center of the room. For example, the distance between the pipes at the door, windows and external walls is 0.15 m, in the rest of the area - 0.3 m;
• in any case, during installation, observe a step of 0.1 m;
• the distance from the contour to the outer wall should not be more than 0.15 m;
• the length of the heating loops should be no more than 100 m.

According to the manufactured drawing, you can calculate required amount pipes. Please note that to bring them to the collector, you will need about another 2 m.

When choosing a hose diameter, consult a heating engineer.

Do not forget that thermal fluids do not need to be placed under furniture. Think about this moment in advance.

Used materials for laying

To install a warm water floor in you will need:

1. insulation material (polystyrene foam plates, aluminum foil;
2. pipe for water heating;
3. damper tape;
4. dense polyethylene and corrugated pipe;
5. reinforcing mesh;
6. cement - sand mortar or dry composition of "self-leveling floor";
7. beacons, fasteners, dowels, screws.

How to make the installation of a water-type concrete heat-insulated floor

Considering complex structure of this system, it is important that the house has high ceilings, since the arrangement of a warm floor will eat up their height by at least 8.5 cm.

Layer-by-layer diagram of a water concrete heat-insulated floor from bottom to top:

• heat insulator;
• reinforcement mesh;
• concrete with a heating circuit;
• a backing made of cardboard, polyethylene or;
• decorative cladding.

Stages of the device:

Preparation:

• The first thing to do is to prepare the surface and level the base. Often in country house use a cement-sand screed, checking the horizontal level on the lighthouses. You can use the now common self-leveling mixtures for underfloor heating.
• After that, we carry out waterproofing work, laying strips of dense polyethylene or aluminum foil.
• We fix the damper tape with self-tapping screws around the perimeter of the premises 2 cm above the screed, which will ease the load during linear deformation.
• Lay a layer and on the hydrosulator. For this we use, expanded polystyrene plates, cork. The thickness of the heat insulator depends on the capacity of the heating system. It is better to use a special material for arranging warm floors.
• On top of the heat insulator, we lay a reinforcing assembly mesh that fixes the pipes with the coolant and reinforcing the concrete screed.

Installation of floor heating circuits

The pipes are attached to the mounting grid with plastic clamps according to the selected scheme. The ideal distance between fasteners is 0.3 - 0.4 m.

Installing the collector and connecting the heating circuits:

• The collector is mounted in a special niche above the floor in the center of the room on the wall. The typical dimensions of the manifold cabinets are 0.6 x 0.4 x 0.12 m.
• We put the supply pipe from the boiler and the return hose into the niche. We put shut-off valves. We connect the collector and plug its end. You can install the splitter, for which we screw in a drain valve at one end, and an air vent at the other. So you can disconnect unnecessary rooms from heating.
• At the point where they exit from the screed, we protect them with special corners or a corrugated tube. We cut the pipe, put on a collapsible fitting and connect it to the collector with a union nut.

Balancing the collector

Water floor heating circuits often have different lengths... Therefore, the coolant must be selected with an individual pressure. To do this, remove the protective caps on the manifold and adjust the working pressure.

Underfloor heating testing

Check the system for leaks before filling. This can be done using a compressor and compressed air.

If everything is working properly, start pouring the concrete screed. For this, the water floor must remain under pressure.

Pouring concrete screed

On top of the system, we lay a concrete, cement-sand screed or a mixture of a self-leveling floor, and align it along the lighthouses with a long rule. The minimum screed thickness is 5 cm.

When the mixture has hardened, check its tightness again before veneering.

Now many residents of private houses install for the main or additional heating water heat-insulated floor. It has a lot of advantages: it increases comfort, heats up the room evenly, does not require additional energy consumption (since it operates from the same boiler with radiators). The instructions in our article will allow you to install water underfloor heating without even having experience. However, before that, it is worth studying all the nuances.

Best of all, a warm water floor system is combined with laying under and tiles.

• First, both materials are strong and durable.
• Secondly, they do not emit harmful substances when heated.
• And thirdly, the heating perfectly complements the tile (the material itself is cold), and you can walk on it even barefoot due to its high heat capacity.

Of course, a warm floor can be made under linoleum, PVC tiles and even carpet, if there is a special mark.

But, for example, it makes no sense to heat the carpet, and the surface temperature cannot be exceeded above 31 ° C, according to SNiP 41-01-2003. Otherwise, it will provoke the release of harmful substances.

Installation in an apartment

Probably, many tenants had the idea to independently connect "for free" water heated floors to the system central heating or DHW. And some even do so, but in most cases it is prohibited by local law.

For example, in Moscow, the government decree No. 73-PP of February 8, 2005 is in force, in Appendix No. 2 it is clearly written about the prohibition of the re-equipment of public water supply systems for floor heating.

Breaking the rules, in best case, you can get a fine the first time you visit the plumbers. And at worst - the risk of leaving neighbors without heating.

In some regions, the ban does not apply, but the connection requires an examination so as not to disrupt the operation of the system.

In general, from a technical point of view, such options are possible, but only when connecting a separate pumping mixing unit and maintaining the system outlet pressure.

Note! If there is a jet pump (elevator) in an apartment building, then metal-plastic and polypropylene pipes cannot be used.

Floor installation methods

There are several ways to arrange a warm water floor.

• The most popular and reliable of them is the concrete screed. Unlike electrical types, pipes of 16 mm cannot be hidden in tile glue, and it will not work. Therefore, a screed is poured at least 3 cm above the pipes.
• The second way is to lay pipes in cut-out polystyrene foam grooves. The grooves are made by hand, pipes are laid inside, then the screed is poured.
• The next option is often used in houses with a wooden floor, although it requires a lot of labor - it is laying in wooden grooves. To do this, boards are stuffed onto the floor, which create a gutter of the desired shape for laying.

Types of pipes used

Three types of pipes are suitable for a warm water floor.

• Pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene (PEX-EVOH-PEX) are inconvenient to use, because it is difficult to give them the desired shape (when heated, they straighten out). But they are not afraid of liquid freezing and are maintainable.
• Reinforced-plastic pipes - the best option: low price, ease of installation, keep their shape stably.
• Copper pipes are expensive; when used in a screed, they must be covered with a protective layer to prevent alkaline attack.

Calculation of a warm water floor

Before installing and purchasing materials, it is imperative to calculate the warm floor. To do this, draw a diagram with contours, which will then come in handy when carrying out renovation works to know the position of the pipes.

• If you are sure that there will always be furniture or plumbing in a certain place, pipes are not laid in this place.
• The length of the loop with a diameter of 16 mm should not exceed 100 m (maximum for 20 mm will be 120 m), otherwise the pressure in the system will be bad. Thus, each circuit occupies approximately no more than 15 square meters. m.
• The difference between the length of several contours should be small (less than 15 m), that is, they should all be of equal length. Large rooms, respectively, are divided into several circuits.
• The optimal pipe spacing is 15 cm when using good thermal insulation. If in winter there are often frosts below -20, then the step is reduced to 10 cm (only possible at the outer walls). And in the north, you can't do without additional radiators.
• With a laying step of 15 cm, the consumption of pipes is approximately 6.7 m for each square of the room, when laying every 10 cm - 10 m.

The graph shows the dependence of the flux density on average temperature coolant. Dotted lines indicate pipes with a diameter of 20 mm, and solid lines - 16 mm.

The graph shows data that is valid only when using a 7 cm thick cement-sand screed, covered with tiles. If the thickness of the screed is increased, for example, by 1 cm, then the heat flow density decreases by 5-8%.

• To find the flux density, the sum of the heat loss of the room in watts is divided by the pipe laying area (subtract the indents from the walls).
• The average temperature is calculated as the average value at the inlet to the circuit and at the outlet of the return.

The optimum temperature at the inlet and outlet should not differ by more than 5-10 degrees. The maximum temperature of the coolant should not exceed 55 ° C.

According to the above diagram, only a rough calculation can be performed and the final adjustment can be made using the mixing unit and thermostats. For accurate design, be sure to contact a professional heating engineer.

Floor heating cake

The technology of laying a warm water floor consists of several layers, which are laid in a certain sequence. The total thickness of the cake is 8-14 cm, the load on the floors is up to 300 kg / sq. m.

In case the base is concrete slab:

• waterproofing;
• insulation;
• reinforcing mesh;
• water floor heating pipe;
• screed.

For waterproofing, it is permissible to use ordinary plastic wrap or special materials. The damper tape is made from cut strips of thermal insulation 1-2 cm thick, or bought ready-made version with a self-adhesive base.
The choice of insulation depends on several factors: region, base material. For example, for floors on the ground, extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of at least 5 cm (optimally 10) is also used, and if there is a warm basement under the floor of the first floor, then thinner options from 3 cm can be used.

The main purpose of the insulation is to direct the heat up from the heating and prevent large heat losses.

In case the base is floors on the ground:

• bulk soil 15 cm;
• crushed stone 10 cm;
• sand 5 cm;
• rough screed;
• waterproofing;
• damper tape around the perimeter;
• extruded polystyrene foam not less than 5 cm;
• reinforced screed with heat carriers.

Preparatory layers under rough screed it is important to tamp thoroughly in layers. When compacting the base tightly and using extruded polystyrene foam, it will not be necessary to make a rough screed.

Underfloor heating installation

Let's say a good foundation has already been prepared: a flat concrete slab or a backfill layer without strong drops. The differences should not exceed 7 mm when checking with a two-meter rail. If there are irregularities, they can be covered with sand.

Waterproofing

Someone puts waterproofing under the bottom of the insulation, someone, on the contrary, upstairs, and some use both here and there.
If extruded polystyrene foam is used, it practically does not need waterproofing, so its position is not so critical. But it will not allow the cement milk to penetrate between the seams of the insulation and go into the slab and will additionally hold back moisture from below.
If you fix it to the bottom of the insulation, then you can attach the pipes to the warm floor directly to the insulation. If the waterproofing is laid up, then the installation of a mesh will be required to fix the pipes.

We lay the waterproofing with an overlap of 20 cm on the walls, and on top of each other. We glue the joints with tape for sealing.

Damper tape

If you bought a ready-made tape, just glue it around the perimeter. It usually has a thickness of 5-8 mm and a height of 10-15 cm. The height should be higher than the fill level, the excess is cut off with a knife. If the tape is made by hand, then be sure to glue or screw it to the wall with self-tapping screws.

Linear expansion of concrete is 0.5 mm per meter when heated to 40 ° C.

Insulation

Insulation sheet for a warm water floor is laid with an offset of the joints so that it is tightly connected.

Reinforcement

The first layer of reinforcing mesh is usually laid on insulation and used as a base for attaching contours and even distribution of heat over the surface. The nets are tied together with wire. Pipes are attached to the mesh on nylon clamps.

The diameter of the mesh rods is 4-5 mm, and the mesh size depends on the pipe laying pitch for convenient fastening.

In addition, it is imperative to lay the reinforcement on top of the pipes, since even when using the mesh from below, it will have almost no effect if it lies at the very bottom. Or, during pouring, place the mesh on supports, creating a gap.

Pipe fixation methods

A water-heated floor can be installed in several ways, we will list them.

• Tensioning clamp made of polyamide. Used for quick fastening of pipes to the mounting grid. Consumption - about 2 pieces per 1 m.
• Fastening wire made of steel. Also used for installation to the grid, the flow rate is exactly the same.
• Stapler and clamps. Suitable for quick fixing of pipes to thermal insulation. The consumption of clamps is 2 pieces per 1 m.
• Fixing track. It is a U-shaped PVC strip, which serves as a base for laying pipes 16 or 20 mm in it. Fixed to the floor.
• Mats for warm water floors made of polystyrene. A pipe is laid in the middle of the grooves between the posts.
• Distribution aluminum plate. It is used for installation in wooden floors, reflects and evenly distributes heat over the surface.

Application of various kinds pipe fasteners

Pipe laying

The pipes are laid with an indent from the walls of 15-20 cm.Each circuit is highly desirable to be made from a single pipe without welding, and their length should not be more than 100 m.The step between the pipes at the walls is 10 cm, closer to the center - 15 cm.

The layout of the warm floor is different, for example, a spiral or a snake. At the outer walls, they try to take a laying step more often or draw a contour from the feed next to cold walls. An example of a circuit for enhanced heating of external walls is shown in the photo, this option is best used in cold regions:



In other cases, the contours are usually laid with a spiral (snail), this is a universal option.

In places with a large accumulation of pipes, in order to avoid overheating of the surface, some of them are covered with a heat-insulating tube.

Metal-plastic 16 mm and 20 mm can be easily bent by hand, without the use of special tools. In order to evenly bend the pipes with an angle of a small radius and at the same time prevent it from cracking, the corners are bent in several passes (hand interceptions).
At an angle of 90 °, you will need about 5-6 interceptions. This means, at first, resting thumbs, make a small bend, then shift their arms slightly towards the bend and repeat the steps.

The presence of kinks on pipes in places of sharp turns is unacceptable.

Polypropylene pipes are much more difficult to bend because they are springy. Therefore, for bending, they are heated or made, but in the case of a warm floor, they are simply attached to the mesh, making the bends less sharp.

The installation of a water-heated floor begins by connecting the first end of the pipe to the distribution manifold, and after laying the room, the return line is immediately connected (the second end).

Connecting circuits

In most cases, the circuits are connected via a distribution unit. It has several functions: increasing the pressure in the system, regulating the temperature, uniform supply to several circuits, combining with radiators.

There are many schemes for connecting to the boiler, which we wrote about in the article about: with manual adjustment, with weather automation and auto-adjustment using servo drives and sensors.

Eurocone fitting

The pipes are connected to the manifold using Eurocone clamping fittings.

Crimping

When you have completed the installation of all circuits, be sure to pneumatically test the system for leaks. For this, a pressure test is done with the help of a compressor. A small household compressor with a pressure of more than 6 bar is suitable for testing. The pressure in the system is brought to 4 bar and left on for the entire time until the system is started.

Since air molecules are much smaller than water molecules, even a slight depressurization can be detected. In addition, the water can freeze if you do not have time to connect the heating, and nothing will happen with the air.

Underfloor heating screed

The screed is poured only after the installation of all circuits and hydraulic tests. It is recommended to use concrete not lower than M-300 (B-22.5) with crushed stone with a fraction of 5-20 mm. A minimum thickness of 3 cm above the pipe is made not only to obtain the required strength, but also to distribute heat evenly over the surface. Weight 1 sq. m. screed with a thickness of 5 cm is up to 125 kg.

With a screed thickness of more than 15 cm or at high loads, an additional calculation of the thermal regime is required.

With an increase in the thickness of the screed, it takes more time to heat it up to a certain temperature after switching on, and the inertia of the system also increases. The lower the thermal conductivity of the screed, the higher the temperature of the coolant will need to be made.

Expansion joints

Examples of dividing a large room into zones

The absence or incorrect position of the thermal gaps is the most common reason destruction of the screed.

Shrinkage seams are made in the following cases:

• the room has an area of ​​over 30 sq. m .;
• walls are more than 8 m long;
• the length and width of the room differ by more than 2 times;
• over the expansion joints of structures;
• the room is too curved.

For this, a damper tape is laid around the perimeter of the seams. In place of the seam, the reinforcement mesh must be divided. The expansion gap should be 10 mm thick at the base. The upper part is treated with a sealant. If the room has non-standard shape, it needs to be broken down into more simple elements rectangular or square shape.




If pipes pass through expansion joints in a screed, in these places they are laid in corrugated pipe, 30 cm corrugations in each direction (according to SP 41-102-98 - 50 cm on each side). It is recommended not to separate one contour with expansion joints; supply and return pipes must pass through it.

Correct passage of contours through technological seams

When laying tiles on expansion joints, the likelihood of their peeling off due to different expansion of adjacent slabs increases. To avoid this, the first part is laid on tile adhesive, and the second part is attached to an elastic sealant.

For additional separation, expansion joints of an incomplete profile can be used. They are made with a trowel, 1/3 of the thickness. After the concrete has set, they are also sealed with a sealant. If pipes pass through them, they are also protected by a corrugation.

Screed cracks

A fairly common occurrence is the appearance of cracks on the screed after drying. This can provoke whole line reasons:

• low density of insulation;
• poor compaction of the solution;
• lack of plasticizers;
• too thick screed;
• lack of shrinkage seams;
• too fast drying of concrete;
• incorrect proportions of the solution.

It is very easy to avoid them:

• insulation must be used with a density higher than 35-40 kg / m3;
• the screed solution must be plastic when laying and with the addition of fiber and plasticizer;
• v large rooms you need to make shrinkage seams (see below);
• also, concrete should not be allowed to seize quickly; for this, it is covered with plastic wrap the next day (for a week).

Screed mortar

For underfloor heating, it is imperative to use a plasticizer to increase the elasticity and strength of concrete. But you need to apply special types non-air-entraining plasticizers for underfloor heating.

Without experience, it will not work to make a cement-sand screed for a warm floor without crushed stone / gravel, and the correct branded DSP will cost more than factory concrete. Therefore, in order to avoid cracks due to a violation of the composition of the solution, it is concrete with crushed stone that is poured.

Mortar M-300 from cement grade M-400, washed sand and crushed stone is made according to the following proportions.

• Mass composition of C: P: U (kg) = 1: 1.9: 3.7.
• Volumetric composition for 10 liters of cement P: W (l) = 17:32.
• From 10 liters of cement, 41 liters of mortar will be obtained.
• The volumetric weight of such concrete M300 will be 2300-2500 kg / m3 (heavy concrete)

There is also another option using granite screening instead of sand, the following elements were used for its preparation:

• 2 buckets of crushed stone with a fraction of 5-20 mm;
• water 7-8 liters;
• superplasticizer SP1 400 ml of solution (1.8 liters of powder is diluted in 5 liters hot water);
• 1 bucket of cement;
• 3-4 buckets of granite screening with a fraction of 0-5 mm;
• bucket volume - 12 liters.

High-quality concrete should not release water during installation (delaminate). If everything is done correctly and the air temperature is 20 ° C, it should begin to set in 4 hours, and after 12 hours it will not leave traces of heels.

After 3 days after pouring, the screed will gain half of its strength, and will harden completely only after 28 days. It is not recommended to turn on the heating system until this moment.

Installation on a wooden floor

Wood does not conduct heat as efficiently as concrete, but installation on it is also feasible. For this, distribution plates made of aluminum are used. The pipes are laid in wooden grooves made by fixing pre-prepared boards.

For the installation of linoleum, carpet and other materials that require a flat surface, a leveling layer of chipboard, plywood or gypsum fiber board is laid above the pipes. If parquet or laminate will be used as a topcoat, the construction of a warm floor can be slightly simplified, without the use of an equalizing layer.

When choosing plywood and chipboard, make sure that they have sanitary-hygienic and thermomechanical characteristics, allowing them to be used together with underfloor heating.

Prices for water heated floor

The price for a warm water floor is formed from several components:

• cost of materials (pipes, insulation, fasteners, etc.);
• the cost of the pumping and mixing unit and the collector;
• work on leveling the base and pouring the top layer of the screed;
• the cost of installing a warm floor.

On average, the price of a water heat-insulated floor for a turnkey installation together with all materials and work will cost about 1500-3000 rubles. Per 1 sq. M. m.

Below is an approximate estimate for a house of 100 sq. m., but the prices for water heated floors are highly dependent on the region, so it is best to drive in your data there and make an independent calculation. It does not include the costs of installing and purchasing radiators, a boiler, a topcoat and a screed.

Estimates for the installation of a water-heated floor system on the 1st floor.
№	Material name	Unit rev.	Qty	Price	Sum
1	Extruded polystyrene foam 5 cm	m2	96	227	21792
2	Mounting mesh 150 * 150 * 4	m2	106	30	3180
3	Polyethylene film 250 microns	m2	105	40	4200
4	Metal-plastic pipe 16 mm	m. p.	700	39	27300
5	Damping tape from backing	m2	30	50	1500
6	Manifold Valtec 1 ", 7 x 3/4", "Eurocone"	PCS.	2	1600	3200
7	Manifold connection fitting (Eurocone) 16x2 mm	PCS.	14	115	1610
8	Pump-mixing unit	PCS.	1	14500	14500
9	Dowels and screws	PCS.	300	1,5	450
10	Mounting tape	m. p.	50	11	550
11	Other accessories for warm water floor	poses	1	0	0
	Total by materials				78282
	Name of works	Unit rev.	Qty	Price	Sum
1	Rough screed	m2	96	60	5760
2	Damper tape installation	m. p.	160	60	9600
3	Laying waterproofing	m2	100	60	6000
4	Laying the mounting grid	m2	110	150	16500
5	Pipe installation	m2	96	300	28800
6	System pressure testing	m2	96	20	1920
	Total by work				68580
1	Total by materials				78282
2	Total by work				68580
3	Total				146862
	Overhead transportation costs			10%	14686
	In total, according to the estimate, the installation of a water-heated floor system is 1 floor.				161548

Installation of warm water floors is shown in the video:

The owners of a private house provide installation of underfloor heating... Will he be in one room or in the whole cottage at once, depends on family budget and the desires of the owners. But its advantages are difficult to overestimate - during operation, you can forget about warm socks and colds in children and adults. If all the money has been spent on construction, but dreams of a warm field do not leave the owners, you need to roll up your sleeves and get to work yourself. It will take a little time to install, minimal construction skills and useful information.

What is underfloor heating in a private house?

Make a warm water floor with your own hands- this is to create an artificial heating system that heats the air from below. In this case, the floor serves heating device supporting a given temperature regime... It provides thermal comfort and meets all process requirements.

When arranging floor heating in a private house, the following heating options are mainly considered:

• Electric floor;
• Electric water floor;
• Classic water floor and the use of pipes and a boiler.

The latter type of residential heating is used most often in construction. Its main advantage is cost-effectiveness in design, use and possible elimination malfunctions. Consider the main advantages of a water floor:

1. Security... Hot pipes are isolated from a person in several layers building materials- the likelihood of getting a skin burn is excluded.
2. Saving... Electricity consumption is reduced by 25-30%. The cost of arranging a warm water floor pays off within a year.
3. Convenience and comfort... With the help of the regulator, owners can set the optimal temperature regime: at the level of 20-30 cm from the floor - 20-22 ° C, at the level of 1.5 m - 18-28 ° C.
4. Durability... A properly installed heating system is capable of functioning without repair and Maintenance 25-40 years old.

The main disadvantage of a water floor is the possibility of violation of waterproofing for self-installation. What other disadvantages does the heating system have:

• Inaccessibility... If, nevertheless, a pipe breakthrough occurred, then in order to eliminate the violation, the entire floor will have to be opened.
• Installation of additional equipment... You will need to purchase radiators when arranging a warm floor in only one room.

Three ways to install a warm water floor

Before proceeding with the self-installation of a warm floor, you need to choose a method that will optimally match the design of the house and the building skills of its owner. There are three options for systems: polystyrene, wood, concrete.

When building a wooden system, you can significantly save and use the materials left after building a house: boards, MDF boards, pieces of plywood.

Construction stages:

1. On wooden base the floor is laid with wooden blocks 15 cm long, leaving a distance between them corresponding to the diameter of the pipes;
2. The next layer will be the thermal distribution plates, which are fixed with screws. The grooves of the plate should fit snugly into the space between wooden beams;
3. A dense polyethylene film is laid on top of the structure;
4. The final stage- fastening drywall sheets.

When choosing thermal distribution plates in a hardware store, you should pay attention to the presence of a latch. When using it, the adhesion of the surfaces of all structural elements will be the closest v, and this will directly affect the amount of heat transfer.

The polystyrene system is most suitable for self installation warm water floor. Polystyrene insulation boards are equipped with special latches for a secure grip. Having laid the interlocking slabs on a wooden base, an integral structure with a flat surface is obtained.

Pipes are laid in the grooves of the slab. The use of fasteners is not required - the pipe is fixed by light pressure until it fully enters the groove. It remains to lay the metal plates on top and everything is ready for the installation of the floor covering.

The concrete system is used most often because of its relative cheapness, availability of materials and reliability.

Layer order:

1. Sand and cement screed;
2. Waterproofing material;
3. Heat insulating material;
4. Heating system pipes;
5. Reinforcing mesh and (or) plastic fasteners;
6. Mix of concrete with plasticizers;
7. Flooring.

This method is suitable for home owners who have previously worked with concrete and have necessary equipment for its manufacture.

List of required materials

Before you make a water-heated floor with your own hands, you need to take a responsible approach to the choice of accessories. First, when purchasing materials, ask the seller to show product certificates. Secondly, before visiting the store, make a list of the necessary building materials, then you will not buy extra pipes or clamps. Here's what you need when installing a heating system:

• Damper tape... It is foamed polyethylene to compensate for thermal expansion. Fits between the edges of the screed and the wall. It has heat-insulating and sound-insulating properties.
• Heat insulating materials ... Now there is a huge selection of materials for thermal insulation in all price categories. When installing a water floor, you can use sheet polystyrene foam. Together with the damper tape, expanded polystyrene will provide optimal heat transfer from the pipes of the heating system.
• Waterproofing materials ... Thick plastic wrap prevents unwanted leakage. Try to use a single piece of material when laying. If the area of ​​the room is large, then the edges of the film must be sealed with tape.
• Fine-mesh reinforcing mesh... The mesh size should be 150 square meters. mm, bar section 4 mm. The material is used to give strength to the screed and to fasten the pipes.
• Pipes... If the quality certificate guarantees integrity for 20 years or more, you can safely make a purchase regardless of the material from which the products are made. For good heat transfer, pipes with a diameter of 2 cm are suitable.
• Mountings... The selection of fasteners is not difficult - in hardware stores there are plastic or metal, of all shapes and sizes.

Materials for a water-heated floor must be selected depending on the installation method.

Before visiting a hardware store, check if all the tools are in stock. When conducting installation works you cannot do without a drill and a screwdriver.

Design and calculation of floor heating parameters

If you are not sure that you can independently design the structure of a warm water floor or calculate the number of pipes in meters, you can resort to the help of specialists or make calculations using computer programs... But there shouldn't be any difficulties, here are some tips:

• It is impossible to make one floor contour more than 100 m, excessive length will negatively affect its integrity.
• The length of the contour components should not differ by more than 10-12 m. And it is better to use equal pipe sections when installing the circuit.
• The warmer the winters in your place of residence, the greater the distance between the pipes should be. If during the coldest period the thermometer does not drop below - 20 ° C, then optimal distance between the pipes is 15 cm.In severe winter conditions, the pipes must be placed every 10 cm.

When conducting correct calculations you should succeed the following parameters: with a distance between pipes of 15 cm, 6.5 m of pipes will be consumed per square meter, and with a step of 10 cm - 9.9 m.

Installation of a water floor

How to make a warm water floor yourself: all materials and tools are at hand - you can start installation. Builders call the combination of layers of water floor construction "pie", so we need to assemble it.

Preparation and insulation of the surface under a water heat-insulated floor

How to install a warm water floor: first of all, you need clean the surface from construction debris and make a concrete screed using a reinforcing wall... The quality of the screed is checked using a level - if the surface is flawed, it is leveled with a trowel. We form the cake further:

• Heat insulating layer;
• Waterproofing layer;
• Another layer of reinforcing mesh.

All materials used, regardless of the chosen method of installation, must be tightly fitted along the edges to each other. If gaps have formed at the joints, you can remove them with tape (when using film) or polyurethane foam.

Selecting and installing a collector

When choosing a collector, be guided by the size of the room where the warm floor will be located, and the power of the unit. The collector must perform the following functions:

• Maintain the required pressure;
• Control the air consumption;
• Provide water flow control;
• Ensure reliability of the entire system;
• Control heating - warm floors must not cool down.

It is best to purchase a collector from brass or of stainless steel equipped with a shut-off valve and a temperature sensor. When installing, first connect the water supply pipes to the unit, and only then the pipes with its outflow. Special fittings or clamping ring with sleeve and nut can be used.

Heating boiler selection

When choosing a boiler, you need to focus on the following models:

• Electric boilers... The most convenient option when arranging a warm floor: even if there is no electricity, the boiler will not stop working.
• Gas boilers ... The cheapest model in terms of cost and fuel price. The disadvantage is that the floors will be cold if the gas runs out in the line.
• Diesel fuel boilers... Not suitable for homeowners who care about the environment. In addition, the filters will need to be constantly cleaned.

You can make a warm water floor with your own hands in a private house using boilers that run on wood and coal. If there is a lot of such fuel in your area and it is inexpensive, then you can purchase such a unit.

Pipe installation

Use clamps (or aluminum wire) to secure the pipes to the reinforcing mesh. When installing the water floor, the fasteners must not be tightened - under the pressure of hot water, the pipes slightly expand and can vibrate. You need to start the installation of a water-heated floor system with water pipes... Then the sections of the circuit are attached to each other, and the collector is connected last.

​

Before installation, it is necessary to count the number of outputs at the collector. This is exactly how many contours should be on the surface of the screed.

Filling the screed

How to install a water-heated floor under the screed - before pouring the screed, check the system... To do this, you need to turn on the heating and supply water at a pressure of 2.7 bar. If the waterproofing is not broken within a few hours, everything is done correctly.

Left make a cement-sand screed... Fill the voids with concrete and level the surface using building level... The installation of the water floor is over.

1. Please note that only owners of private houses have the right to equip such a heating system. In many regions of our country, there is a ban on the refurbishment of water supply systems in apartments. Improper installation of the water floor can lead to leakage: neighbors apartment building will remain in winter period without heating. At best, you can get off with a fine, at worst - pay overhaul damaged premises.
2. When installing a water system, it is required to provide for the final version of the floor covering: marble, granite, basalt have excellent thermal conductivity - the house will always be comfortable. And here are the wooden floors and carpets poorly distributing heat from the heating element. In addition, the wood will dry out, and synthetic carpets are able to emit harmful substances into the surrounding space.
3. The quality of the underfloor heating installation will be higher if you level its base as much as possible. The total amount of unevenness on the surface should vary within 5 mm.