Today, many owners of private houses install a warm water floor for additional or main heating. They have a lot of advantages: they evenly warm up the room, increase comfort, do not require additional energy consumption, since they operate from the same boiler with radiators. In this article, we will consider the question of how to install a warm floor in a private house with our own hands, water, even without having experience in carrying out such work.

Preparation and calculation of materials

Such responsible work should begin with the planning and preparation of all the necessary materials. Strictly speaking, an accurate calculation can only be carried out by specialists who have information about the level of heat leakage in a particular room. But for individual needs, as a rule, approximate calculations are used, which fully satisfy the requirements.

To begin with, you should draw a plan for the location of pipes for a warm water floor in a private house. The clearest and clearest of all will be a diagram drawn on a sheet in a cage, on which the system can be calculated based on the quadrature of the room. Each cell will correspond to one step, that is, the distance between the pipes of the system. For a temperate climate zone:

• With sufficiently good insulation of windows and a house, the distance between adjacent pipe turns can be made about 15-20 cm.
• If the walls are well insulated - 10-15 cm.
• In spacious rooms, where some of the walls are cold, and some are warm, a variable step is made: near cold walls, the distance between adjacent pipe turns is not too large, but as we approach warm walls- it increases.

Choosing a floor covering for a warm floor:

• A serious mistake is made by those who are going to lay a thick wood flooring or parquet. Wood conducts heat poorly, which is why it will greatly impede the heating of the room. The efficiency of such heating may turn out to be even worse than that of a radiator, in turn, heating costs are quite large.
• The ideal coating for warm floors is ceramic, stone or porcelain stoneware tiles. When heated, it will keep warm remarkably, and this is the best option for a bathroom or kitchen. Children love to play in rooms with underfloor heating, and just walking barefoot is much more pleasant than on wooden parquet.
• A slightly worse option for flooring more appropriate for a bedroom or a guest room - laminate or linoleum. Such materials transmit heat well without reducing the efficiency of water heat supply. In this case, the laminate must be chosen minimum thickness, and linoleum - without a substrate with insulation.

Important! When heated, many artificial materials can release harmful vapors into the air. That is why flooring with chemical additives must have a mark from the manufacturer of the product about the possibility of their use in residential premises on warm floors.

Underfloor heating base

When it comes to housing with concrete slabs, then the best option for a base under a warm water floor with your own hands in a private house is a concrete screed with water heating.

Important! The same method is used for the first floors (basement) of private cottages, if the base of the floor is on a sand cushion, which is located directly on the ground.

In houses with wooden floors, this option will not work. Wooden beams ceilings simply will not withstand the large weight of concrete screeds, no matter how thin. In this case, a lightweight version of warm floors is used, which we will talk about a little later.

Do-it-yourself installation of underfloor heating begins with a thorough preparation of the base, which should be even, without any depressions and protrusions. The maximum allowable drop can be 5 mm.

Important! If the depth of surface defects is 1-2 cm, then you will have to pour and then level a thin layer of fine crushed stone (granite screening) with a grain size of up to 5 mm. On top of the leveling layer, you will need to lay a film and walk along the wooden shields... Otherwise, the leveling layer itself will serve as a source of irregularities.

Laying schemes for water-heated floors

The most common layouts for water-heated floors are spiral and snail:

• The snail evenly warms up the entire floor area.
• But with a spiral, you can provide a greater level of heating in the most cold zone rooms. For this, the first branches of the pipe through which hot water will be supplied are laid there.

The exact length of the pipe is determined according to a pre-prepared plan.

Important! For underfloor heating, only a single piece of pipe must be used. If the area of ​​the room is large, then several heating circuits should be planned. Moreover, the length of the pipe of each of these circuits should not exceed 100 m. otherwise- it will take too great pressure which is needed for normal speed hot water flow. In terms of area, this is approximately 15 square meters.

It is better to make a warm water floor with your own hands in a private house from a metal-plastic pipe, the diameter of which is 16 mm. It bends easily with a fairly small radius, and it is much more convenient to work with it than with a cross-linked polyethylene pipe. It is undesirable to use pipes with a diameter of 20 mm, because a large diameter will require an increase in the thickness of the concrete, which will negatively affect the efficiency of the heating system.

As a rule, the flow rate of the pipe is 1 square meter area is:

• 10 meters at a step of 10 cm.
• 6.75 meters at 15 cm steps.

Selection of thermal insulation and fasteners

To prevent the heat from going down, a layer of dense foam must be laid on the base.

Important! The density of the insulation should be chosen at least 25, and better - 35 kg / cubic meter. Lighter types of foam will simply crumple under the weight of the concrete layer.

Insulation and heat reflector

The optimal thickness of the insulation is 5 cm.When laying on the ground or if you need higher protection from the cold, when the floor below is bad or unheated room, the thickness of the insulating layer can be increased to 10 cm.

To reduce heat loss, it is recommended to lay a heat-reflecting screen, consisting of a metallized film, over the insulation. This could be:

• Reflective foam screen that is glued behind the radiators.
• Penofol (metallized polyethylene foam).
• Plain food grade aluminum foil.

The metallized layer quickly becomes unusable due to the aggressive effect of concrete, so the screen itself must also be protected. Such a protective layer will serve polyethylene film, which is often used for greenhouses in the greenhouse industry. The thickness of this film should be about 75-100 microns.

Moreover, it provides the necessary moisture for the maturing concrete screed throughout the entire period of its hardening. Pieces of film should be overlapped, and the joints should be carefully glued with tape.

Pipe fittings

Fasteners for pipes are installed on top of the thermal insulation. Their purpose is to fix the adjacent branches of the pipe and place it on the floor in strict accordance with the preliminary diagram. Fasteners hold the pipe until the concrete screed acquires required degree hardness. The use of fasteners facilitates the installation of a warm water floor with your own hands in a private house and guarantees correct location pipes in the thickness of the concrete pad.

Fasteners can be special metal strips, welded metal mesh, plastic brackets that fix the pipe to the foam base:

• Metal strips are used with increased thickness of the concrete pad. They raise the pipe slightly in relation to the thermal insulation, so that it is slightly closer to the upper surface of the concrete pad. The pipe simply snaps into the curly grooves of the strips.
• The metal mesh not only anchors the pipe, but also reinforces the concrete pad layer. The pipe is fixed to the mesh with pieces of wire or plastic clamps. In this case, the consumption of fasteners is 2 pieces per 1 running meter. Additional fasteners can be used in places of curvature.
• Plastic brackets are assembled by hand. They pin the pipe to the foam as it is laid. Semi-industrial floor heating is made using a special stapler. However, its purchase is justified only with intensive professional use.

Recently, manufacturers of underfloor heating systems have begun to offer another rather convenient solution - special sheets of dense polystyrene foam with a profiled surface. As a rule, the surface of such sheets is represented by intersections of grooves or rows of protruding elements, between which heating pipes are laid.

The surface of such sheets is smooth, extruded, all pores are closed, and an additional waterproofing film is not needed for it. Having at your disposal a special thermal cutter, you can make grooves in expanded polystyrene yourself. However, to carry out such work, at least minimal experience is required.

Important! Metal plastic pipes supplied in bays. During the laying process, the coil is rolled along the pipe placement path. Do not pull pipes out of a lying bay, as this will cause it to twist and can lead to incandescence of the inner layers.

Preparation and pouring of concrete

It is possible to fill pipes with concrete when installing a water-heated floor with your own hands in a private house in stages only after they are completely laid, correctly connected to the collectors, and also filled with a coolant under a pressure of 4 bar.

Important! Before pouring, the pipe must be kept under pressure for at least a couple of days. If a leak is found, it must be repaired immediately. If the system itself has not yet been installed, then instead of water, air should be pumped into the pipes using a compressor and the pressure should be fixed with ball valves.

Immediately after the injection, the pressure may decrease slightly due to the straightening of the pipes. During the pouring and hardening of the concrete, the pressure is monitored using a connected pressure gauge.

In order to compensate for thermal expansion, a damper tape is attached along the walls. The thermal expansion of a concrete cushion should be 0.5 mm per linear meter, with a temperature increase of 40 degrees. In the event that the heating is only 20 degrees, then the expansion will accordingly be half as much. It is necessary to multiply the expansion by the length of the longest section of the concrete floor and compare this value with the thickness of the damper tape.

As a rule, for ordinary houses, it is enough to lay the tape only along the walls and when doorway... Also, the damper tape plays the role of thermal insulation of the warm floor and walls. In this way, cold bridges are eliminated, which cause unnecessary heat leakage.

In some cases, expansion joints are additionally made:

• If the length of either side of the room is more than 8 meters.
• The floor area is over 30 square meters.
• The length and width of a room differ by more than two times.
• The shape of the room has several curves.

For an extended warm floor, an expansion joint with a damper tape is fitted every ten meters. To prevent the movement of concrete cushions in these places from breaking through the pipe, a rigid plastic corrugation or pipe should be put on it. large diameter... The entry of the protective pipe into the concrete cushions is at least 0.5 m on each side.

If, according to the placement plan, an accumulation of warm pipes occurs in one place, for example, near a collector, then a heat insulator sleeve must be put on some of the pipes. This will make it possible to avoid local overheating, as well as better retain heat for the desired areas of the floor.

Warm water floor concreting

If concrete for pouring underfloor heating is not brought in, but is made on site, then the following components will be required:

• Washed river sand- 1.9 in. h.
• Cement grade 300 (400) - 1 part by weight.
• Crushed stone 5-20 mm in size - 3.7 in. h.

Important! This is the composition heavy concrete, the weight of which is 2.5 tons per 1 cubic meter. m of finished material.

But many refuse sand in concrete for underfloor heating. This is due to its low thermal conductivity. Therefore, in practice, cement-gravel mixtures are often used, the composition of which is as follows:

• Cement - 1 bucket.
• Granite crushed stone - 5-20 mm - 2 buckets.
• Water - 7 L (if the solution is very thick, you can add another 1 L).
• Fine granite screening - 4 buckets.

Granite conducts heat remarkably, and such concrete has a significantly lower thermal resistance. In addition, it is worth introducing reinforcing fiber, which is a small plastic fiber, into the composition.

Important! Any self-leveling floor must include a plasticizer. Its amount depends on the brand and purpose of the given drug. Moreover, the plasticizer should not be any, but intended specifically for the warm floor.

General rules for filling:

• If the pipe is fixed on strips or staples, then a reinforcing mesh must be laid on top of it. And the height of the concrete screed should be chosen 5-10 cm.
• In this case, it is necessary to provide at least 3 cm of concrete above the pipe. A smaller spacer can lead to cracking, and a too thick concrete pad will increase heat transfer losses.
• At the right choice concrete and an acceptable temperature, it begins to set after 4 hours. For support normal humidity it must be covered with a waterproof film, and in the process of drying the surface, pour water on it.
• Already after 12 hours, the hardened concrete will be able to support the weight of one person. However, its full maturation occurs no earlier than 28 days later. All this time, it is necessary to take care of its moisture content, as well as maintain a sufficiently high pressure in the laid pipes. Only after the specified time has elapsed, the first thermal tests of such a floor can be carried out.

Important! As during the first test of a warm water floor with your own hands in a private house, you cannot quickly heat it up to high temperatures afterwards.

Flooring

On the finished, completely dried concrete base, you can glue ceramic tiles or some other floor views coatings. In this case, you should use glue, which is intended for warm floors.

Important! If the tile falls just on the expansion joint, then one part of it should be glued, and the other should be placed on silicone glue. Silicone absorbs thermal movements of the base, so that the tiles will not crack from overvoltage.

A lightweight option for underfloor heating for wooden floors

As mentioned above, for wooden floors it is necessary to make a light warm floor without a concrete cushion. In this case, the sequence of work may differ slightly, depending on the structure of the floor and the condition of the old floor:

• So that the heat does not go down, you need to put insulation under the pipes. It can be placed between the overlap lags, and then it is better to use mineral wool. Or it can be laid on an old rough floor - here you will already need expanded polystyrene with a density of 25-35 kg / m3.

Important! To prevent condensation from forming, under mineral wool it is worth laying the vapor barrier membrane, and filling the first rough floor on top of the logs.

• As well as for a concrete floor, it is recommended to lay a heat-reflecting screen made of foam or foil on the insulation. At the same time, all seams and joints must be carefully glued with tape.
• It is necessary to lay logs directly on the expanded polystyrene, to which the boards of the subfloor should be nailed. In this case, there should be approximately 2 cm gaps between the boards for laying the pipe.

Important! The same gaps should be provided at the ends of the floorboards. Otherwise, you will have to choose transverse grooves for the pipe, and this can cause the boards to break.

• In order for the heat to be more evenly distributed over the floor, the pipe must be laid not just in grooves, but in specially designed metal gutters, which are designed for this purpose. The metal transfers heat well over the entire surface and evenly heats the finish coat. Tips for choosing it were given a little higher - it can be a laminate that can work with heating, or a rigid polymer coating. Thick parquet flooring is the least suitable for warm floors.

Important! Compared to concrete floor heating, the lightweight structure is set up much faster and is cheaper. Another advantage is the ability to repair pipes in the event of an accident. Pipe problems in concrete floor can only be eliminated by completely replacing it. But a wooden floor also has a drawback - it is a significantly lower heat output.

A competently equipped step-by-step do-it-yourself heated water floor in a private house is another step towards convenient and comfortable living conditions for the whole family. But, even if for some reason you cannot perform these works on your own and are forced to invite specialists, the knowledge gained will help you take an active part in this process and control the quality of the assembled system.

Heating for a private house warm floors perfect solution. It will create a wonderful indoor climate in the harshest winters. With its correct organization, the warm floor can be used as the main source of heat. To achieve this, you should know how to make a warm floor in a private house. In this article, you will learn about the possibilities of implementing underfloor heating in your home with your own hands.

Before equipping underfloor heating, it is important to carry out all necessary calculations... For example, it should be determined which heat losses has your home. How to do it? When calculating heat losses, it is necessary to take into account the following parameters:

• Wall thickness and material.
• The thickness and what the foundation and the roof are made of.
• The thickness and type of insulation used in the construction of the house.
• The total area of ​​doors and windows, as well as the level of their insulation.
• Overlap thickness and material.
• Features of the climate of your area and so on.

If you decide to create a warm floor project in a specialized design organization, then you should prepare all this and other data in advance. However, you can make such calculations yourself, but the error will be greater. For example, there are two methods:

1. By volume.
2. By area.

The best option for carrying out calculations is considered - by the volume of the room.

When calculating a warm floor for a private house, it is important to determine the amount of heat energy received from it. As practice shows, warm floors give out 60-80 W / m 2. In fact, this is a rather big indicator, as it might seem at first glance. If you multiply it by the area of ​​the room, then the result will be high rate thermal energy.

It is important not to be mistaken here. We will be discussing the heated area, not the total. For example, it makes no sense to heat the floor under a cupboard or other bulky items. Therefore, the calculation is done selectively.

The heated area is the area where the pipe and the heating circuit are laid. To determine this area, subtract the area of ​​all objects installed on the floor. Only after that you can proceed to accurate calculations of the warm floor. To do this, multiply the resulting area by 60 or 80 W / m 2. If ceramic tiles will be used as flooring, then multiply by 80, and for other coatings by 60.

Underfloor heating as the main heating - is it possible?

Before starting the installation of a cable underfloor heating, be sure to make a project. This will allow you to make an accurate calculation of the required material, as well as determine the areas that will not be heated. Also indicate in the project the location of the temperature sensor and the place of connection to the electrical network. You will need this project when renovation work so save it.

To determine the exact distance between heating cables, you can use the following formula: L1 = P × 100 / L2

L1 is the required distance in cm.

· P is the total free area in m 2.

· L - cable length in m.

To prevent heat loss, it is recommended to mount the heating cable on a heat-reflecting material. Also, make sure that the connection between the power cable and the heating cable does not bend. As for the location of the temperature sensor, it should be at a distance of 50-100 cm from the wall.

The first step is to install the thermal insulation and reflective film, and then proceed with the installation of the cable. Thanks to a special fastening, the cable is fixed every 30 mm. The line should not intersect with each other. There must be at least 400 mm to the borders of furniture and other stationary items.

At a height of 1.2 m from the floor, install a thermostat that will control the temperature level in the room.

When the cable is fully assembled, it remains to fill it with a tie. When making a cement-sand mortar, do not add large fractions of pebbles to the composition. The underfloor heating screed must be at least 50 mm. When pouring the screed, make sure that there is no air left inside, otherwise this may lead to failure of the heating circuit. Do not turn on the heating cable while the screed is drying. It should dry as naturally as possible. This may take about one month.

There is also a technology for laying heating mats. Their installation is much faster, since the cable is already fixed on a special mounting grid with the required pitch. The principle of their installation is practically no different from the technology described above. The only thing that is needed is to measure the operating resistance. It must correspond to the specified indicators in the instructions for the product.

With regard to efficiency, the water underfloor heating is unmatched in terms of efficiency. However, it is much more difficult to install, plus the cost of such a floor is very high. However, compared to a radiator system, you will pay 20% less energy usage. So, to create water heating you need:

• Boiler.
• Pipes.
• Heat carrier.
• Circulation pump.
• Mixing unit.
• Collector.

This is with regard to the equipment. In addition, you will need to purchase thermal insulation, fill the screed and lay the flooring. Therefore, as a result, you will have decent expenses.

In most cases, the water pipes are laid in the floor screed. A plasticizer is added to the solution, which increases specifications finished screed, and also accelerates the drying process. In such a system, the heating "pie" is an excellent accumulator of thermal energy. It can maintain the required room temperature for a long time. Even after turning off the heating, the room will be warm for some period.

If your private house is built of wood, then the screed will not work here. It will have a strong effect on the overlap. For this reason, the practice of using a flooring system, which is made of wood or polystyrene. It is lightweight and very easy to install.

If you have chosen a water heat-insulated floor, then remember that it can be laid in the floor during the construction of a building.

So, which one is the best to use heating for a private house? If you are on a tight budget, you can install electric heating, but it will be very expensive to maintain. On the other hand, water heating requires large financial investments at the stage of its installation. However, during its operation, it is quite economical. There are many working schemes that can be used when arranging floor heating. Leave your comments if you have already implemented underfloor heating in your home.

Video

In the provided video material, it is described in more detail about the creation of a warm floor in a private house:

The project for the installation of underfloor heating provides for the installation of a heating system with your own hands. The following types of warm floors are installed independently: infrared, electric, water and film. The cheapest and most practical are water types of underfloor heating. They consume the least resources, however, you will have to tinker with the installation.

Design features and organizational issues

A water heat-insulated floor is a system made of polypropylene, plastic, copper or metal-plastic pipes... The heat carrier is a liquid that moves along the contour of the pipeline. The temperature of the liquid, and, therefore, of the house, is controlled by a thermostat - a heat-sensitive sensor, which is installed at a distance of 80-120 cm above the floor. Note, the thermostat can be located in any of the heated rooms or outside.

Second hallmark water heating is its economy. However, this system also has a downside - complex scheme installation: under the water heated floor, you need to properly prepare the screed, purchase a heat insulator, connect the pipes to the boiler and organize the safety of your home. In addition, the water floor requires do-it-yourself connection of the control valves and the distribution manifold cabinet. The cabinet contains supply and return pipelines connected to the manifold.

Installation methods

How to make a warm floor in a private house? There are two installation methods - the floor method and the concrete surface mounting. The first installation method is used exclusively for such types of flooring: laminate, linoleum and carpet. In the second way, the water floor is installed for such materials that are placed on concrete screed.

Installation of underfloor heating in a private house

Installing a warm water floor on a concrete screed is the most popular way to install high-tech heating. This installation scheme has become very popular due to the high performance of the water floor and the economy.

Step-by-step instruction:

When laying the floor with your own hands, we recommend that you adhere to the above sequence. We proceed to the most difficult stage - drawing up a pipe layout and installing them. There are several known methods of laying a plumbing: single and double snake and spiral. The snake scheme is advised to be used for square or rectangular rooms, and the second option is for rooms with irregular geometry.

Heating elements of heating are attached to reinforcement mesh on clamps with a step of 0.5 meters. In places potentially high pressure and the stress of the pipeline is strengthened corrugated pipes... The length of pipes when laying the outer walls should not exceed 85–95 meters, otherwise the heating system will lose too much heat as a result of the pressure drop at the end of the circuit. On average, 1 m2 accounts for 5 running meters pipes, provided that a step of 200 mm is observed.

Do-it-yourself installation of a water-heated floor

Pressure testing is the final stage at which the pipeline is checked for integrity. Recommended pressure during pressure testing is 0.3–0.4 MPa. It is better to pour the concrete screed after checking the pipeline. The layer thickness should not exceed 45–75 mm. Experts advise using sand concrete M300, or a special material for underfloor heating.

The floor covering is laid only after the screed has completely hardened. Subject to temperature regime and regular ventilation of the room, the screed dries for about 20 days. You can lay ceramic tiles, linoleum, laminate or carpet on a warm floor, built with your own hands.

Installation of a polystyrene heating system

All are sold complete with polystyrene plates necessary materials for installation. The assembly scheme is quite simple: the polystyrene plate has special plates with grooves in which pipes for a water floor are easily snapped in. Once snapped into place, the floor can be covered with any coating that does not require a special base, such as a concrete screed.

If you cannot imagine an interior without ceramic tiles or linoleum, then in this case we recommend that you install a layer of gypsum fiber board ( gypsum fiber sheet 10-15 mm thick). Gypsum fiber is a very strong and light material, so you can safely lay tiles on it with your own hands, without fear of damaging the heating system.

The modular scheme implies the use of ready-made chipboards with special channels for the pipeline. Heating pipes are installed in grooves. Then put thermal insulation layer... The entire structure is covered from above with GVL plates. Suitable type of flooring - for example, linoleum;

The rack and pinion installation system is no different from the above. The only thing that this scheme is based on slats, and not plates with clamps. After installation, the pipeline is covered with GVL plates.

Video: Warm floor on a wooden base

The main problem of private houses and cottages is the cold floor. After all, radiators heat only part of the air in the room. The heated air immediately rushes upward, leaving the floor almost as cold.

In the presence of a water-heated floor, the temperature in the room is distributed more rationally. Heating costs remain the same or even decrease. Such systems can be installed both throughout the house and only in the bathroom, nursery, living room, etc.

Basic installation methods

Underfloor heating water heating pipes can be fixed:

By pouring a concrete screed;

In the grooves of polystyrene boards;

On a boardwalk.

The last two options are referred to as the "dry" system. The fact is that in buildings with wooden floors cement-sand screed use is unacceptable. After all, the weight is even 1 sq. m of concrete 50 mm thick is about 300 kg. To fix water floors in buildings with wooden floors, they are used polystyrene sheets or panels from wood.

Underfloor heating with a cement-sand screed in areas with a warm climate can be installed as the main heating system without installing radiators. At a water temperature in the pipes of 30-50 ° C, the floors warm up to 22-24 ° C, which is quite enough for a comfortable existence.

Cement-sand screed

The heat transfer of "dry" systems, unfortunately, is significantly lower than in structures with a concrete screed. Therefore, they can only be used as a supplement to heating radiators.

Laying "dry" floors on a plank base and expanded polystyrene mats

Important! V apartment buildings connecting water floors to centralized system Absolutely forbidden. If the apartment is located on the ground floor and the cold is coming from the basement, electrically heated floors should be used.

Choice of pipes

Pipes are selected for floor heating diameter from 1.6 to 2.5 cm... It is impractical to use products with a smaller diameter, since the circulation of water in pipes that are too thin is reduced. The speed of water movement will also be low in the case of installing pipes that are too wide: the water in them will cool down before reaching the end of the circuit.

When installing water floors, it is better to use flexible sewn polyethylene pipes, the degree of expansion of which when heated is less. For strengthening, they are reinforced with fiberglass. The pipes are connected using compression or pressure fittings.

Such pipes look like ordinary hoses. They are also easy to bend, so they do not require the use of pipe benders, and they can be installed literally in a matter of minutes. The disadvantages of such products include "creep" - an increase in the diameter of products without loss of performance up to 1.5% during the first 10 years of operation. In addition, over time, they swell slightly and become less smooth.

Pipes made of "sewn" polyethylene

Compression fittings and connection by pressure testing of pipes made of "sewn" polyethylene

During installation, it can be used and metal-plastic(products made of polyethylene, reinforced with aluminum), pipes made of corrugated stainless steel or copper... Bend metal-plastic using pipe benders or manually after preheating to gas burner... The connection at the joints is made fittings without welding.

The device of a metal-plastic pipe and fitting joints for metal-plastic

Polypropylene it is used less often, since it has a small bend radius, and it is more difficult to work with it. It will not work to avoid joints in such pipes, and special welding nozzles.

Calculation of the number of pipes

On graph paper or a piece of paper in a cage, a plan of a room with doors and windows is drawn in a scale of 1:50. A pipe laying scheme is applied to it, starting from the window of the wall closest to the water riser. An indent of 30 cm is provided from the wall.

The distance between the two pipes depends on their diameter and the initial temperature of the room: from 20 to 50 cm. If the room is too cold, then the distance is made minimal. One circuit (branch) should cover no more than 20 sq. m.

Pipe laying methods

There are several styling methods. The disadvantage of "snake" styling is a significant difference between the temperature of the water at the inlet and outlet, therefore it is used only in small rooms, where heat loss will be minimal. With this method, the beginning of the contour should be at the coldest zones near the windows and along the walls.

Styling Snail more difficult, however, with this method, the temperature difference in the room is practically imperceptible. At first, the pipe is laid along the walls, and only then it bends by 90 ° C and moves inside the contour. Wherein warm pipe and the already cooled pipe alternate with each other, so the floor warms up more evenly. The so-called universal method is also used, in which the "snail" and "snake" alternate.

Important! If there will be heavy furniture or appliances in the room, the warm floor is not laid under them.

Having measured the length of the contour in the drawing, the resulting figure should be multiplied by fifty (sketch scale). To this figure, another 2 m is added to connect the pipes to the riser. For calculations, you can use the following formula:

Important! The maximum length of pipes in the circuit is 90 m. With an increase in this figure, a drop in pressure is possible, as well as the occurrence of sufficiently large heat losses at the end of the circuit. If the resulting figure is more than 70 m, it is advisable to divide it into two separate branches. Moreover, the difference in their length should not exceed 15 m.

Collector for underfloor heating

The first in the underfloor heating system is a water distribution collector- the node to which all pipes are docked. Its main function is to collect chilled water and distribute hot water to individual areas. Up to 12 circuits can be connected to a standard manifold. Such devices are usually housed in a closed cabinet. It is desirable that it is located in the center of the wall of the heated room. It is not recommended to install it too close to the floor.

Distribution manifolds

The temperature at the inlet to the collector should not exceed 35 ° С, while the surface of the warm floor should warm up to 30 ° С (during wet rooms up to 33 ° C). The temperature of the parquet or vinyl film should be slightly lower: up to 27 ° C.

In front of the manifold, there is usually shut-off valve, with which you can disconnect the system from heating. Next to it are also attached drain cock and air vent... If the system has several circuits with different lengths, the manifold must be equipped with flow regulators.

Pump-mixing unit

Since pipes in such a system should warm up less than heating radiators, in heating system a pumping and mixing unit is provided in which water is diluted to required temperature... Such a unit is connected to the supply line and the "return" (the pipe through which the cooled water returns to the system).

The pump-mixing unit consists of a circular pump that provides the pressure of water, and a valve that regulates the degree of its supply. Mixing hot and cold water, control over the temperature and its maintenance to the required level is carried out with the help of a thermo mixer.

Pump and mixing units

The procedure for installing a water floor

1. The underfloor heating system is mounted on subfloor... It can be assembled from boards or plywood. If the distance between the logs is more than 0.5 m, it is better to lay an additional log between the supports.

2. The floors must be perfectly flat, as in the presence of drops, airing of the pipes is possible. In a concrete base. adjacent to the ground, all cracks and cracks must be repaired.

3. All wooden surfaces(including bearing logs) must be treated with an antiseptic.

4. Overlapping the premises is necessary waterproof... To do this, you can use polyethylene with a thickness of 200 microns, which is laid on rough floor overlap with the approach to the walls and fastened with tape or construction stapler... Lags are also shrouded in it. Roofing material or special solutions can also be used for isolation.

The waterproofing layer is laid over the walls

5. On top of the waterproofing is laid insulation... When installing the system directly on the ground or over a cold basement mats of extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 60 mm or more or a layer of expanded clay from 10 cm are used. Foam plastic, mineral wool or basalt slabs can also be used as a heat-insulating material.

Floor insulation

6. More modern materials for warming water floors are profile heat-insulating plates, in which "bosses" are provided for pipe laying. Each such plate is equipped with a side lock for engaging with an adjacent sheet. For the convenience of cutting, a ruler with marked divisions is located on its sides.

Profile insulating plates for pipe laying

7. Along the walls and door frames to compensate for the movements of the concrete screed is installed damper tape(strip with a width of 120 mm) made of foamed polyethylene. It should protrude 20 mm above the floor. At the bottom of such a tape, a "skirt" made of film is provided, which overlaps the joint so that the concrete does not flow down when pouring the screed.

Damper tape laying

8. Fastening pipes to thermal insulation material can also be carried out using anchor brackets or, in the case of installation metal mesh, by means of clamps.

Fastening with anchor clamps

Fastening pipes to metal mesh

9. A foil gasket is laid on top of the insulation, which will reflect heat.

10. When pouring pipes with a concrete screed in cement mortar it is desirable to introduce a plasticizer to prevent cracking. It takes at least 28 days for its complete hardening. The finishing floor can only be laid after this time.

Concrete screed

Important! Connecting pipes under a concrete screed is not allowed to avoid leaks. When laying metal-plastic, only one-piece coils should be used.

11. If, instead of a concrete screed, a "dry" system of polystyrene or wood is used, then before laying them, the insulation is again covered with a waterproofing layer and sheets of plywood or wood. In this case, pipes are laid in thermal distribution metal plates equipped with grooves.

Thermal distribution plates

System pressure testing

1. To check the system for leaks before pouring concrete or closing "dry" systems, make it crimping... To avoid future leaks, the air outlets should not be involved in this process, so they are closed. When crimping metal-plastic the first test is carried out during the day with cold water at a pressure of 6 bar. This water is not drained before pouring with concrete.

2. Pressure in sewn polyethylene pipes during such a check, there should be 2 times more worker. After its decrease to normal within 30 minutes, the pressure is raised again, and this is repeated 3 times. After that, the system is left for a day. During this time, it should fall by less than 1.5 Bars.

3. Next, a second check is carried out hot water... In this case, the pipes must be heated up to 80-85 ° С. If weak links are found in the fastener, the fittings tighten. When heated, the stress that arose during the pipe-laying process is also relieved. Pouring with concrete is carried out after the pipes have cooled down without reducing the pressure in them.

Video: Water heat-insulated floor in the house

Each owner of a private house faces a question of choice optimal view heating, which will not only fulfill its functions with dignity, but also be in harmony with modern design... Bulky heating radiators are outdated, worsen the interior of the room and dry the air. An alternative is a water heat-insulated floor, for a private house this is the most effective option.

What is a water heat-insulated floor

We bring to your attention not only a list of component materials, but also the principle of their choice.

Pipes. For the installation of floor heating, plastic or metal-plastic pipes are used. Recently, plumbers have received recognition for pipes made of cross-linked polypropylene, which differ from other pipes in their high resistance to deformation, excellent thermal conductivity and a high degree of tightness.

An important condition when choosing pipes is their suitability for use in heating systems. Unfortunately, some unscrupulous sellers, taking advantage of the incompetence of the client, sell pipes intended for plumbing. The result is an inefficient underfloor heating system. To avoid this, you need to look at the markings that are on each pipe:

• linear expansion no more than 0.025 mm / m;
• thermal conductivity from 0.43 W / m 0 С.

The required amount of pipe depends on indicators such as the laying pitch and the diameter of the material. See the table for details.

Boiler. You can buy gas, electric or solid fuels. The choice will be determined by the region of residence. For example, if there are power outages, then it is better to buy a gas boiler. If we talk about power, then it depends on many indicators. For a standard house with insulated walls, plastic windows and a ceiling height of at least 3 meters, the following calculation is made: the specific power per square meter should be 100 W or 1 KW per 10 m 2. Knowing the total area of ​​the house, you can calculate the power of the boiler. In this case, it is better to include a power reserve, about 20%.

Collector. Ensures the operability of the entire water floor and maintains the temperature set by the thermostat. It is best not to save money, but to buy a collector consisting of a flow sensor, a drain valve and a Mayevsky valve (bleeds air that has entered the system). Additionally, you will need to select a shield.

Circulation pump. Purchased if it is not already built into the boiler. This device circulates water in the system and can be equipped with a thermostat that will control the water flow rate and thus regulate the temperature in the system. The perfect solution- a three-speed pump with a temperature controller (installing a temperature controller will require knowledge in the field of electrical engineering and not everyone can do it). You can find out how to choose a pump by performance from the table:

As for the company, it is better to give preference European manufacturers... Excellent proven itself German company Grundfos.

Components. This includes couplings, threads, fittings, Ball Valves etc. The required number is calculated individually, based on the characteristics of each water floor heating system. Floor heating in each particular house has to be calculated and planned individually.

Read also about, which will help to seriously reduce heating costs.

Installation of a water floor

First of all, you need to inspect the old floor. Linoleum, parquet, boards are subject to dismantling. On the tile, if it is strong enough, you can lay plastic pipes without pouring a rough screed.

Rough screed, otherwise called "primary", serves for the most dense installation of thermal insulation. Therefore, at this stage, you do not have to worry much about the floor level and the presence of minor irregularities. A layer of concrete several centimeters thick will be enough. For these purposes, cement of the M-300 brand, mixed with sand in a 1: 4 ratio, is suitable.

The next step is to install the insulation. There is nothing complicated here, you just have to pay attention to the joints between the material. They need to be secured with mounting tape to avoid unnecessary heat loss.

Insulation material can be different:

1. Styrofoam. Although it is considered a morally outdated insulation, it does an excellent job with the task assigned to it. The only drawback is fragility.
2. Foam insulation with a reflective foil layer.
3. Insulation polystyrene foam for underfloor heating. This material is best suited for insulation. Possessing a high density, expanded polystyrene (aka penoplex) perfectly insulates the water floor from the cold concrete base... You can use Penoplex 35, which is fire resistant.

The last step will be the installation of a reinforced mesh with a reinforcement section of 5 mm and a mesh size of 10-15 cm. It will be possible to attach the pipes themselves to it using plastic ties. In addition, the reinforced mesh serves as a binder for the concrete floor. Or you can use special water floor mats.

Secrets of the masters when installing a pipe for floor heating

Do-it-yourself work itself does not have any particular difficulties, but there are a number of nuances, the knowledge of which will help to carry out the installation correctly.

The choice of the laying scheme. There are two known methods of laying: a snake and a snail (spiral). The last option preferable. The fact is that when laying the pipe with a "snake", the water temperature decreases towards the end of the loop, which entails uneven heating of the floor. The arrangement of the pipe in a spiral will help to avoid this: the floor warms up evenly. At the same time, much less material is required.

How long should the pipe be? Regardless of the power of the selected boiler, the water will cool down as it moves away from the point of intake. Therefore, the recommended pipe length is 100 m. If necessary greater importance, use several circuits, each of which is connected to the collector separately.

How to calculate the installation step? Only an experienced designer can calculate the exact step: to obtain correct value many factors are taken into account, from the thickness of the walls and the size of the windows, to the diameter of the pipe. Nevertheless, there is averaged data, which we will operate on. Optimal step installation for the system, which is the main source of heat in the house, is 10-20 cm. This value is not constant. Near the outer walls, the first 5-6 rows are laid in 5-6 cm increments, closer to interior walls and in the middle of the room, the step increases to the above data.

Today in hardware stores there are special mats for warm water floors, which greatly simplify and speed up the process of laying pipes. See the photo how it works.

Application of mats for warm water floors

How to solder pipes correctly? There are also several subtleties in this question that need to be covered within the framework of the article:

• connect pipes to each other, it is better by means of special adapters (otherwise, barrels);
• if metal-plastic pipes are soldered, then the metal sheath must be removed at a distance of about 3 cm from the edge of the pipe.

To achieve a high quality connection, please refer to the following table.

Assembly, installation, connection of the collector

It should be noted that the installation process of the collector will differ depending on the model, the number of heating circuits, and the selected components. For the system to function flawlessly, the assembly must be carried out in accordance with the instructions attached to the devices.

Where to locate the collector? When choosing a place for mounting the manifold box, an equal distance from all circuits must be taken into account. This is necessary to ensure uniform water pressure in all circuits. If the wall on which you are installing manifold cabinet, not carrying - you can make a niche in it.

How to assemble a collector?

Let's consider the assembly process using the Icma UPS model as an example. In this case, we will take into account that the circulation pump and the collector itself are used together, this will ensure ease of heating control.

1. We install a circulation pump on the union nuts; gaskets are needed between the nut itself and the pump.
2. We connect the manifold with the pumping group by winding the adapters with the union nut and not forgetting about the gaskets.
3. A thermostat and a valve responsible for the flow of cold water (mixing) must be connected to the mixing block.
4. We connect the mixing group to the manifold.

Now the manifold can be installed in the enclosure, the supply and return can be connected to the distributor from below, then the heating circuit elements can also be connected using adapters.

Boiler installation: features, sequence

When connecting the boiler to the underfloor heating system, a problem often arises. The fact is that the boiler gives out a water temperature of 75-80 0 С, and for normal operation of a water heated floor, a temperature of no more than 45 0 С is required. For this reason, the connection must be made in such a way that water with a reduced temperature is supplied to the pipes. Do it in closed system heating can only be done in one way: dilute hot water cooled down, coming from the "return". This function is performed by the underfloor heating mixing unit.

Floor heating during installation must be assembled according to the following scheme, starting from the boiler:

1. At the beginning of the circuit, a control valve is installed, then a circulation pump and a manifold.
2. A mixing unit is mounted between the valve and the pump so that the cooled water from the "return" flows into the supply and then through the circulation pump to the heating system.
3. The final stage is bringing the return pipe to the boiler.

It should be remembered that the installation principle of the boiler itself will differ in different models and types of equipment.

Read more: floor with wiring diagrams.

Pressure testing and trial run

After graduation installation works you need to test the system. For this, a pressure test is carried out.

There are two ways to check the tightness of the system: pressurized water or compressed air... The first option is preferable: after checking for leaks, you can immediately turn on the heating. The air test is used when the heated floors are operated from central heating, and there is no confidence in its timely inclusion. In any case, the pressure should not exceed 6 bar. The system is considered operational if the pressure has dropped by no more than 1.5 bar in 24 hours.

After the tightness test, a full start-up can be carried out. The water temperature should be about 80 0 С; for this, the mixing unit must be turned off. At this temperature, the stress in the pipes decreases, which ensures the durability of the structure.

Conclusion

It is necessary to pour the concrete screed after the water in the pipes has completely cooled down. For the screed, you can use both traditional concrete and a solution for a warm floor, which has a higher ability to conduct heat. The layer thickness should not exceed 7 cm.

After the screed is completely dry, the floor covering can be laid.