Although power saws now dominate the vast majority of carpentry shops, sooner or later you will inevitably encounter situations where manual sawing can be made easier or more efficient. Here's how to get the most out of hand saws in critical cases.

When you need a hand saw

Some operations, such as trimming protruding dowels and plugs flush with the surface, forming oblique tenons, or sawing off short finishing profiles, are best done by hand. It is often faster and safer to cut cross-cut into blanks with a conventional hacksaw than trying to balance with a long board at a saw machine. And many carpenters simply enjoy hand-cutting tenons and other joints.

Although the hacksaw is often the best remedy, usually cuts do not come out as clean as miter saw or a circular saw with a high quality blade. Therefore, when the quality of the cut is important, sawing by hand should be slightly to the side of the intended line, and then remove the allowance by planing or grinding, or sawing to the final size on the machine with saw blade.

Three main saws

Of all the varieties of hand saws in every workshop, it is useful to have these three.

Japanese saws.

Such saws, various in size and design, including options with a back, work when moving "on themselves". This stretches the steel blade, making it thinner than for push saws. A stretched thin blade is less deformed and less likely to get stuck in the cut. Many consider this method of sawing more controllable. Japanese saws are used both for filing to size and for making joints.

If you often need to saw off protruding plugs and dowels flush, add a Japanese hacksaw with no set teeth to your collection - it leaves almost no scratches on the surrounding surface. (For most saws, the teeth are set apart, that is, slightly bent to both sides alternately so that the width of the cut is greater than the thickness of the blade, and this is necessary so that the blade does not get stuck in the cut).

Classic longitudinal and transverse hacksaws.

Today, traditional European-style saws have a different number and shape of teeth, allowing them to cut faster and with less effort. For most tasks, it is convenient to have a 350 mm hacksaw (saw length is measured along the teeth). A hacksaw 550-650 mm long for transverse cutting of long boards or sawing out draft blanks will also not hurt.

Edge saw.

Designed for more precise cuts and joining, this saw usually has finer teeth than conventional hacksaws. Its distinctive feature is a steel or brass butt on the upper edge of the blade, which gives rigidity and increases the accuracy of sawing.

How to cut with a saw correctly!

When hand sawing, stand in front of the workpiece and make sure that your elbow, wrist, and end saw blade were always in a straight line. The movements of the arm should be straight, starting from the shoulder, reminiscent of the movements of the piston in a steam engine. Hold the saw at a right angle to the workpiece, looking at the reflection on the side of the blade.

The workpiece should not look broken along the cut line. Make long strokes so that all teeth engage in sawing and wear evenly. As you near the end of the cut, support the part you are cutting so that it does not break off, leaving chips at the corner of your workpiece.

Hold the instrument correctly. Take a classic European hacksaw by inserting three fingers into the notch of the handle, and forefinger point forward along the handle ( left photo). The long handle of a Japanese saw must be completely covered with the palms of both hands (right photo).

Teeth must be sharp

Hang the saw on a nail or wear a saw to protect the teeth when stored.

Saws with induction hardened teeth stay sharp three times longer than non-hardened ones.

If the blade gets stuck in the wood or the cut always deviates in the same direction, the cause must be sought in improper sharpening and setting of the teeth. If you do not yet have the skills and experience for independent divorce and sharpening of teeth, seek the help of professionals.

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The tricks and subtleties of sawing - sawing firewood - helpful information for those who have not yet had time to prepare firewood for the winter. :-)

A saw with poorly set teeth gets stuck in damp wood. It is enough to anoint the canvas with soap, as the work will go faster.

In order not to injure your hands when sharpening the saw, you need to cover its teeth with a cover from a rubber tube cut along - as in the picture on the right.

sawing firewood

Sawing firewood will become much more convenient if the goats are equipped with an average support. It should be slightly higher than the extreme ones, then the log will not clamp the saw.

Collapsible goats

It is convenient to have goats for sawing firewood that are collapsible and of varying length. It is convenient to store such goats in a barn, they can saw logs of any length. To do this, the crosspieces must be movably mounted on the rod with fixation (for example, using a tie-down collar for a bolt) in any position. Goats are made of metal or wood, or a combination of both.

Emphasis for carpentry workbench

The home master should have in his technical arsenal a simple emphasis for carpentry workbench, which securely fixes the workpiece and saves hands from frequent bruises and injuries.

Sawing with a two-handed saw by one person

Everyone knows that sawing with a two-handed saw without an assistant is inconvenient. But not everyone knows that instead of an assistant, you can attach a spring to the case, a thick rubber cord, an elastic bough. How this is done is shown in the figure.

Bench board

In the manufacture of such a workbench as in the figure, the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwedge vise was used.

A groove is hollowed out on the right side of the board. To the edges of the groove, flush with its upper edge, guide strips made of solid wood are firmly screwed with screws. Two wedges are inserted into the groove between the guide bars. A metal visor with teeth (ruff) is embedded in one of them, with which it must dig into the end face of the workpiece. Another wedge acts as a lock. It firmly holds the wedge with the ruff in the installed position.

Wedges, as well as guide rails, must be made of hardwood.

The part is fixed and released from the clamp with light blows of a hammer sliding along special cutouts made for this on the wedges.

The second stop for the workpiece is a check with an iron comb-ruff. It is inserted into one of the nests hollowed out in the board.

In order to be able to fasten parts of any length (naturally, within the length of your board), the distance between adjacent sockets should not exceed the length of the groove.

And one more important circumstance must be taken into account. To make it possible to process thin parts on the bench, the protruding parts of the wedges and checks should not rise above the plane of the board by more than 10 millimeters.

Short log file

What to do if a short log does not want to fit into the goats? You need to take two boards, attach them to the horns as shown in the figure, and now you can safely saw through any log.

Bow saw with two blades

For cross and longitudinal sawing.

Bow saw with two blades for cross and longitudinal sawing - a thing that is simply indispensable for household. Tensioner - adjustable spacer - done in the center.

Hacksaw with two blades

For cutting grooves, spikes, slats, etc., it is convenient to put two blades on a hacksaw. The width of the cutout will be determined by the thickness of the insert between the sheets.

Smooth cut to a given depth

Such a device to ensure an even and even a given cut of the board to a depth can be made in your home workshop.

Two holes are made in the hacksaw (see fig.) and through them a limiter line with vertical slots is fastened with wing bolts. By setting the ruler, you can get an even cut, and if you apply the appropriate divisions to the slots, then the cut will turn out not only even, but also accurate to the desired depth.

How to cut a thin plank

At home, it is not so easy to saw off a thin bar: the saw constantly leaves a straight line. The matter is facilitated if a board is placed below.

Cutting the same strips

In the technical arsenal home master it is very good to have a device that allows you to get strips of the same size from plywood, thin boards, soft metal, plastic or plexiglass. The simplest design Such a device consists of two bars, fastened together with nails at a constant angle of the cutter, driven into the end of the upper bar.

A more advanced design allows using a wing nut to change the position of the cutter and, accordingly, to obtain strips of any width.

Sawing identical boards

It is often possible to observe how, cutting a large number of boards of the same length, an inexperienced master walks with a ruler from one end of the board to the other, each time measuring the standard length. An experienced carpenter gets rid of these hassles with a rail of the desired length with an emphasis on the end. It is enough to cut the boards evenly from one end, and then, using the rail as a template, cut them to the desired length.

Sawing at an angle

The simplest emphasis, made of durable wood, will greatly facilitate the work when at home you need to cut bars or boards at the right angle.

Fixing the board when sawing

A simple device for carpentry work - a "wooden hook" will allow you to securely fix the board when sawing off. With one ledge, the device is pressed against a stool or table, and the board rests against the other ledge.

The saw must be driven, otherwise it will start to “walk”. This must be taken literally. Wood is a living material and its behavior is unpredictable. Hard growth rings, knots, cracks, high humidity and high resin content can seriously complicate sawing.

For this reason, there is no universal tool that could take into account all the whims of the tree, but there are many different special saws. The shape and order of alternation of their teeth are determined not by the material from which the saw blade is made, but by its purpose. Some tool can only cut in a straight line, the other, on the contrary, goes better in a circle.

When sawing, only the saw moves, the workpiece must be securely fastened. Therefore, you will need a stable support. For example, a workbench or goats. The workpiece is fixed with a clamp or held by hand, and especially large - additionally with a knee.

Sawing begins and ends with repeated light pulling of the saw in the opposite direction, that is, a “trace” is laid. At the end of sawing, you need to hold the residue firmly so that it does not break off along with a piece of the main wood.

Sawing is one of the most common processes in the processing of wood. Clean, even cut- not a problem if you pick right tool and be able to use it.

In the photo (from top to bottom): large and small hacksaws; saw with a "back"; saw with a narrow blade. On the left side is a saw for fine sawing.

For each workpiece - its own saw

The hacksaw cuts quickly, but the wide tooth pitch leaves a rough mark in soft material. On the other hand, it would be difficult to cut a thick cant with a fine saw. In a word, the material and the tool must fit together. Only then can you count on high-quality work and obtaining a smooth, defect-free part. We offer brief instructions: which tree should be processed with which saw.

How to protect your saw from damage

Any saw (especially its cutting edge) should not come into contact with other tools during storage. From such a neighborhood, it can quickly fail.

If the saw does not have a sheath, then a simple method will help protect its teeth from damage. A cut of the required length is made in a piece of hose, after which the hose is mounted on the saw blade. A rigid hose lined with a fabric is best suited for this purpose. It adheres tightly to the saw blade even after repeated use.

If longitudinal sawing is carried out in large volumes, then it is better to purchase circular saw. To do it with a hand saw - you get dirty. This is the first, and the second: the information that can be gleaned from the texts in the frame is incomprehensible to a beginner, and useless to a professional.

Basic Hand Saws

Any home workshop should have at least three to four different types of saws.

1. Hacksaw with a wide blade for rough sawing of large parts and workpieces. The longer the canvas, the faster the work goes. However, for the same reason, the mobility of the blade itself increases, due to which the saw, as they say, leads away. Therefore, it is important to carefully monitor the cutting line, not allowing it to deviate from the markup. New recent years- Teflon coating of the hacksaw blade, which greatly facilitates sawing fresh wood, and also protects the saw from rust.
2. A saw with a “back” differs from a conventional hacksaw not only in that it has a rigid nozzle that “dampens” blade vibrations, but also in smaller, closely spaced teeth. Such a saw allows you to make a clean and thin cut.
3. A fine cut saw ensures a clean and precise cut.
4. A narrow blade saw is designed for sawing rounded parts and large holes. The basic rule of care for any saw: its blade should always be dry and clean. Saw teeth - even hardened ones - should be sharpened regularly.

How to saw correctly

It is always necessary to cut from the cutting side, close to the marking line. This applies to both rough cuts with a hacksaw and fine cuts with a fine-toothed saw. Further, it is very important that the workpiece to be processed has a stable support in the form of a workbench or a regular desktop. For large-sized workpieces, it is better to use goats. In the process of sawing, the part must be held firmly by hand all the time (a large-sized workpiece - also with a knee) - in other words, only the saw should move.

Sawing begins with the first short strokes at an angle of 30 to 45 degrees. Only after the saw blade has entered the wood and fixed in it, you can start working with a saw for the entire length of the blade.

At the edge of the cut, saw only in short, sharp strokes. This will avoid breakages from the underside of the workpiece.

Cutting along the wood fibers is always a “critical” situation, especially if the wood has a large swirl. The saw naturally wants to follow the path of least resistance, and if not restrained, it will begin to "walk". That is, in such cases, the saw has to be pressed harder than usual, which, in turn, requires the most stable position of the workpiece.

With large cross cuts, a conventional hacksaw can jam. In such cases, it is better to use a rip saw with very set teeth. Just keep in mind that the cutting strip will be much thicker than the saw blade.

Sawing fresh or damp wood will become easier if the saw blade is smeared with wax or soap.

The blanks are firmly pressed against the lintel, its right edge guides the saw.

Tsulaga

When processing small workpieces, the collage shown in the figures below can be of great help.

To make it, you will need a piece of carpentry board about 20 x 30 cm in size and 2 mm thick, as well as two planed strips, which must be fixed to the board as shown in the figure. To prevent warping and breaking of the slab, the planks must be placed across the direction of its core layer.

How to work with a circular

The lower bar of the cleat rests against the edge of the tabletop and thus sets the correct direction for cutting, the shortened upper bar ensures good centering of the saw.

If you have to cut long boards or planks, then a second cleat will not interfere, which will serve as a stop for the other end of the workpiece.

A piece of carpenter's board and two pieces of plank are enough to make a practical tsulagi.

Before starting sawing, the saw set at an angle must be pulled several times towards you.

Teeth and their shape

The capabilities of the saw depend on its shape and size of the teeth. A large number of teeth at a certain blade length means fine sawing but slow progress. A small number of teeth gives a rough cut.

Wood is made up of fibers that separate when sawn. In this case, sawdust appears, which must be removed. The smaller the teeth, the faster the cut and the cutting edge of the saw are clogged with small sawdust - saw flour. The teeth can no longer grip the wood to its full height. Sawing is becoming more and more tedious and, most importantly, unproductive. But large teeth almost never clog due to the greater remoteness of their tips from each other.

Almost any saw has teeth that are divorced, that is, their tips alternately deviate either to the left or to the right. The greater the angle of inclination, the wider the cut band, and therefore it is less clogged with sawdust, and the saw jams less.

Over time, saw teeth become dull and need to be sharpened. In this case, the broken wiring must be restored. Not even for a specialist simple work. Therefore, we recommend purchasing saws with hardened teeth. They do not dull so quickly, and they are easier to sharpen than the teeth of a conventional saw.

You just need to put the saw blade on the table and run the whetstone twice along the cutting edge from the end to the handle, then turn the blade over. The saw is sharpened, you can get to work.

Steep teeth for ripping

This is how the teeth are located on almost all hand saws, including hacksaws and saws with a "back".

The cutting edge of the teeth is located vertically. Suitable for longitudinal cuts.

When ripping, the workpiece should protrude sufficiently beyond the workbench - this makes it easier to cut.

The marking below the gap indicates where the saw is deflected.

Bevels

Connection of two wooden parts at a right angle, for example at picture frames, is often carried out using a glue line with an angle of 45 degrees to the edge. A cut at this angle must be made very accurately. Even a slight deviation will not allow the parts to connect tightly.

A miter box will help to accurately and accurately cut the bar at an angle of 45 degrees. This device, made of hardwood, is a block with two parallel sides, in which oblique slots provide the saw with the desired position. Moreover, in three positions, that is, the saw can divide the bar obliquely to the left or right, or at a right angle.

The plank should lie tightly in the miter box: any displacement of it can lead to a change in the cutting angle. It is best to fix the part with a clamp. Well, if the miter box itself is fixed on a workbench, or at least has a stable position with an emphasis. Sawing on a miter box with a saw with a "back" or a saw for fine sawing. With frequent use of the miter box, its sides can be damaged, which will inevitably lead to a distortion of the cutting angle. Such a miter box will have to be replaced.

There are also expensive miter boxes made of metal. They don't wear out and last a long time.

The miter box will help to accurately cut the bar at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees.

Husqvarna's experts always listen to the opinions of professionals who use tools in the forestry every day when developing. Our goal. transfer their experience to the production of new models and thus make the tool even more perfect from the consumer’s point of view

How to start a chainsaw

This is an important saw maintenance procedure that is easy to perform if you follow the recommendations and use the equipment provided by Husqvarna. By sharpening your chain relatively often, you will make this procedure as easy as possible. Lock the saw in place. Block the chain by engaging the chain brake. Start by sharpening the cutting teeth. Position the template on the chain with the arrows in the direction of the driven bar sprocket. Position the file at the right angle to the rollers. Sharpen every second tooth with a strong pushing motion. Then turn the saw and sharpen the rest of the cutting teeth.

Sharpening of cutting depth gauges.

After every third sharpening of the cutting teeth, it is necessary to grind down the depth gauges of the depth of cut located between the teeth. Hold the template firmly with one hand. Select hard (hard) or soft (soft), depending on the type of saw you are using the saw to cut. Holding a flat file with your other hand, grind down the depth gauges until the file touches the template.

Chain and bar replacement.

After a certain number of sharpenings, when the longest part of the cutting tooth is less than 4 mm, the chain should be replaced. Remove the bar and install a new chain. Adjust chain tension. A loose chain may come off, and a tight chain will wear the bar. If the chain is properly tensioned, it can be lifted about one centimeter from the middle of the bar and easily pulled by hand.

Cleaning.

From time to time it is necessary to clean some parts of the saw. Open the clutch cover and clean the chain brake band. It is also necessary to clean the tire from time to time. Open the cylinder cover and clean the air filter. If necessary, clean the cooling fins and ventilation holes. To ensure proper engine cooling, periodically check the flywheel vanes for dirt.

Examination.

To ensure proper functioning of other parts, they should be checked regularly. This applies in particular to the chain brake, throttle lever and chain catcher. It is necessary to check the integrity and degree of wear of the chain drive sprocket. It is necessary to check the integrity and degree of wear of the chain drive sprocket, as well as the tightening of screws, bolts and nuts. More detailed information maintenance can be found in the user manual for the saw.

If you decide to cut down a tree yourself and then remove the wood from the territory, you need to know the basic safety rules. And from compliance correct sequence Sawing wood depends on the efficiency of your work. Of course, it is best to contact specialists on this issue, since such work is classified as dangerous and complex. The help of a professional will help to avoid possible injuries and damage on the territory of the log house.

Safety Rules for Cutting Wood

When felling trees, you must work with at least one partner. Cutting trees alone is undesirable. A partner will help you keep track of all aspects of work and safety. Also, you can not smoke and make fire during sawing. If a fire or other source of open fire is already lit on the territory, it should be extinguished before using the chainsaw.

Protect your face from sawdust or dust. Calculate the trajectory of the fall of the tree trunk so that it does not hit animals, people, buildings or electrical wires (cables). At strong wind all work should be stopped, as air currents can change the landing site of the cut tree.

Compliance with safety precautions is an important link when working with wood.

Preliminarily clear the area around the tree and in the place of its future fall from all objects that can provoke its overturn or cause damage.

If you are sawing a thick wood pole, hold the chainsaw firmly with both hands, feeling the tension from the wood.

During operation, use the entire surface of the saw blade - this will reduce the recoil force and help to avoid accidental shutdowns of the device from overload. If you are sawing thick branches or poles, try to raise the tool above shoulder level.

Important safety points when cutting wood:

• when splitting dry wood, do not allow sparks and even smoke to enter the chainsaw - gasoline combined with dry wood can easily ignite and cause harm, not to mention slowing down the work process;
• before turning on the saw, make sure that there are no children and animals nearby; only employees or superiors can be around;
• always hold the saw in your hands, even when it is turned off - falling the tool can hurt someone or something below;
• start work in clothes made of dense fabric and in a mask that protects your face from dirt and dust;
• special headphones with soundproofing will help to avoid a headache from the prolonged noise of a chainsaw; this is especially important if you work regularly;
• when sawing, position yourself so that part of the tree trunk protects you from flying sawdust and dust.

The main stages of sawing wood

Make a corner cut on one side of the tree. To do this, you need to determine where the tree leans more. An angled notch consists of two inclined notches that intersect approximately in the middle of a tree trunk, after which you can pull out a "slice" of wood.

A horizontal cut is made from the back of the trunk, which reaches the angle of the cut made earlier. The barrel under its own weight will “move out” towards the first notch and begin to fall.

If the calculations were made accurately, the cut tree will fall into the right side with which the first cut was made.

The processing of the trunk begins - branches and knots are cut down, the trunk is sawn across into several parts. Thin branches are cut in one step, thicker branches - in two. Do not let the chainsaw chain touch the ground - this will dull it faster. Cut the branches on which the trunk has fallen carefully so that the tree does not settle or begin to roll.

Stages of sawing wood.

The sawing of a tree pole starts from the top. First, cuts are made, marking the length of the detachable fragments of the trunk. Then the tree is cut into several pieces.

It is best to start cutting small branches from the base of the tree to its top - the lower part of the trunk lies more stable, which allows you to cut knots and branches without fear that the tree column will move.

How to cut a tree trunk correctly?

To cut trees into several pieces and not damage the chainsaw, you must first cut to the middle of the trunk and turn off the saw, leaving it in the wood. Then drive a wedge into the resulting hole to widen the gap. This is done so that the saw chain does not deform under the pressure of the two halves of the barrel. After expanding the hole, the tree is sawn to the end.

If the chainsaw bar is stuck in a tree, especially if it is hard wood, immediately turn off the device, and then try to pull the saw out while working on both halves of the trunk.

To do this, you need the help of a partner. This is one of the reasons why you cannot work alone when cutting down trees - there are too many moments in this business when you cannot do without the help of a second person.

How to cut wood?

After cutting down a tree, it is important to divide it correctly in order to get as much as possible. finished materials from wood - boards, beams, etc. It is best to cut a fresh tree that has been cut down recently. Three factors affecting the quality of the finished wood product:

• the quality of the feedstock (the presence or absence of knots and bumps on the trunk);
• barrel thickness and shape;
• correctly chosen method of sawing wood.

At home, for sawing the trunk, you can use the main set of tools - electric jigsaw, manual or electric saw.

Sawing with a jigsaw requires preliminary marking.

Sawing wooden beams jigsaw requires preliminary marking. To get smooth and neat products, you must follow the rules:

• sharpen the saw, and bend its teeth in different directions so that the chain does not get stuck in the wood;
• before work, make markings with a pencil, marker or pen; make sure that the marking lines do not cross the defective areas.

What are the types of wood sawing?

If you resort to laser cutting, sawing trees will be done accurately, saving time and raw materials - this technology allows you to accurately cut the tree with a minimum amount of residue and waste. The laser can cut wood of any thickness. Cool the cut areas to avoid fire, as laser cutting produces heat treatment cut.

Types of sawing wood.

Machine tools for receiving wood materials used on an industrial scale. These devices are very bulky, but can work for a long time without interruption. Among the machines, there are circular saw and multi-blade models. The first perform longitudinal and cross cutting using a circular saw, while the latter saw and cut wood with several saws - simultaneously or alternately.

A tree sawing line is a complex of one or more machines. This device is expensive and is purchased only with a large amount of wood raw materials. There are several types of this type of machine:

• splitting and sawing - sawing and splitting logs of any breed using a chain or circular saw;
• round timber processing line - equipped with two saw modules and a pneumatic system that removes sawdust;
• log sorting line - helps to optimize sawmilling;
• optimizing line - automates the supply of stems for processing, allowing you to replace manual labor.

Frozen wood processing

Frozen wood is more difficult to cut than normal dry wood, so this type of sawing is a separate category. Since trees are often sawn during the cold season, the choice best way processing of such raw materials is an urgent problem. This will require tools with more solid construction- Frozen wood becomes more durable due to the freezing of moisture in it.

Video: Types of sawing wood