How to remove the bath: step-by-step instruction

As a rule, the dismantling of the bathtub is carried out during the repair work of the entire room or when replacing the plumbing equipment. In any case, you will need step-by-step instructions on how to remove the bath, so as not to damage the cladding elements, furniture and other plumbing in the bathroom, to do the job quickly and efficiently.

Preparatory stage and start of work

Despite the fact that during the dismantling process you still get debris, preliminary cleaning and preparation of the premises is a mandatory step before starting work. If this is a complex repair, then nothing should remain in the room, up to sinks and hoses. Experts recommend dismantling the bathtub in overalls and protective equipment. You should be prepared for the fact that the work is going to be quite dirty and dirty.

So, before you take off old bath, you need to do the following:
Completely disconnect all communications in the bathroom: turn off all water supply taps.
Take out all bathroom supplies and accessories. Even if they do not bother you, you still run the risk of getting them badly dirty or hopelessly damaged.
Remove all furniture from the room: bedside tables, cupboards, and so on.
Dismantle plumbing and sanitary ware.
Clear the room of anything that might interfere with work.

Quite often, the dismantling of the bathroom is directly related to overhaul, which means removing tiles, tiles, peeling paint and other facing materials... Everything is done mostly quickly enough, but at least a day will take you.

We also advise you to inquire in advance if your house provides for the removal of bulky waste. V otherwise have to deal with the export old bath independently, which is quite difficult.

Let's start dismantling

When all preparatory work made, you can proceed directly to dismantling:
The first step is to disconnect the drain pipe. If your plumbing has been standing since the times Soviet Union, then, most likely, the pipe is cast iron, connected with a concrete mortar. Naturally, such a structure is fixed tightly. The easiest way is to simply cut off such pipes so as not to waste time in vain. In any case, you are unlikely to use them in the future. But it is enough to simply unscrew the plastic pipes and put them aside for the duration of dismantling in another room.

Disconnect the floor siphon and overflow pipe before removing the tub. The siphon is in most cases secured with a tightening bolt turned towards the drain grate. It is enough to turn it in the opposite direction and unscrew it. After that, the siphon is disconnected without any problems. It happens that the clamping nut is difficult to unscrew. If it does not give in and there is no need for its subsequent use, you can simply cut it with a hacksaw for metal. Such nuts are made mainly of soft brass, therefore special efforts not needed for cutting. If it is inconvenient to work with a hacksaw, you can use a chisel and hammer. Just knock it down gently, being careful not to damage the tub itself.

Now you need to make side cuts. They are done with inside drain grate in such a way that the distance is sufficient for cutting a sector out of the drain funnel. In this case, its size should be no more than a quarter of the circle.
Next, carefully saw through the circumference of the funnel. The most important thing is not to damage the enamel. But this is only important if you will be re-installing the bathtub. If not, you can work faster and without great care. What will eventually remain from the drain, push the edges inward, bending with a chisel and hammer. Now the drain will go through without any problems. drainer in the bathroom and you can easily pull it out.

Disconnect the drain-overflow pipe and pull the branch pipe out of the sewer socket. To prevent water from dripping, the mouth itself can be closed with a gag or simply wrapped with a piece of unnecessary cloth. If the bath was grounded, then the strip should be disconnected so that it does not interfere with the operation. To do this, simply knock out the metal wedge with a hammer. Some of the tiles at the edge of the bathtub often have to be removed as well.
Now you can free the bath from the cement adjacent to it. Again, if you don't plan on using the bath again, you don't need to be very careful. You can just beat off pieces of cement. It is likely that it will fall off along with the enamel. However, in the event that all plumbing will be installed back, you need to proceed with caution. The upper layers of cement can be removed with the same chisel, but this should be done very carefully. Then you have to work more subtly. You can use a knife, spatula or any other sharpened metal, all actions should be carried out very carefully. You can walk on top with sandpaper, but this is also fraught with damage to the enamel, which will cause corrosion in the future. Anyway, if the bath was fixed concrete mortar, then it is unlikely that you will be able to do all the work perfectly.
Dismantling features different types baths

In general, the process is quite similar in all cases, however different weight implies certain peculiarities and causes some difficulties. Therefore, we will highlight the key points of the process in each case.

Dismantling the cast iron bath. The problem is that reusing cast iron baths is usually not possible. Therefore, the main tool for dismantling will be a hammer, with which the bathtub will break.

Beating off pieces of a cast-iron bath is a laborious and very noisy process. From general considerations we recommend that you warn your neighbors that at a certain time you will carry out repairs in order to avoid complaints later.

Cast iron is a very heavy material, but at the same time rather brittle if worked with force. Beat off the pieces of metal as small as possible so that you can submerge them in the bags and take them out of the house. The advantage of breaking a cast-iron bath is the elimination of the need to hire special equipment for removal. The pieces can even be loaded into a car, taken to a landfill or scrapped.

If you do not want to work with a heavy hammer for many hours, you can use a grinder with a special disc attachment. The pieces will be smoother and easier to remove.

Important! In work, use personal protective equipment: gloves, glasses, closed shoes.

How to remove acrylic bath, special detailed instructions not required. It is light enough and passes through the doorway without any problems. It can also be cut and removed without any problems.

It should be said that many people agree to pick up acrylic bathrooms at own expense, which will save you from additional hassle.

Dismantling a steel bath on the principle is almost identical to dismantling a cast iron one. For sawing, it is enough to pick up a strong circle and a grinder. But if the bath itself is small, weighs a little and easily passes through the doorway, then you do not need to saw it. You can even just take it outside. You can be sure that she will be picked up immediately.

Despite the general simplicity of work, there are a number of nuances that must be taken into account in the work. Therefore, we bring to your attention a set of basic tips that will greatly simplify and speed up the process:
If light bath and goes through the doorway, do not cut it. Save own time and strength.
When you take the bathroom out of the room, which you will be installing back after repair, it is better to cover the corners with mounting film so as not to damage the enamel if you hit it against the corners of the opening, etc.
Be careful not to damage the parts from the fasteners. Try not to lose them. Without these elements, it will be very problematic to reinstall the bathtub and it will not stand firmly. We'll have to go to the nearest hardware store and buy new ones.
We advise you to replace all branch pipes immediately during the repair. Even if they changed relatively recently. You can easily damage them, and after installation new plumbing the replacement process will be very difficult. The replacement will not greatly affect the cost of repair work, but it will prevent additional expenditures of time and effort in the future.
We recommend treating pipe joints with a high-quality sealant. It is rather preventive measure, however, it will never be superfluous and will provide long term exploitation.
Before taking out the bath, it is better to remove the legs if possible. You will most likely be placing it in a different room, and the metal of the stands can severely damage the coating. It will be safer to remove them and simply fill the bath on one side in a new place or prop it against the wall.
When you lift the tub vertically, it can slide forward on the tiles. To prevent this, you can lay a regular rubber mat under it. This will provide excellent adhesion to the surface and greater operational safety.
If one side is firmly attached to the wall, you can simply lift the opposite side up and "drop" it to the floor. But care should be taken to cushion the impact: apply fabrics, rugs, etc. But if you live in an old house with weak floors, this method is strongly discouraged.

As you can see, the dismantling process itself is not complicated, but it requires considerable effort and time. Therefore, soberly calculate your own time and energy. And only after the final repair, get to work.

Replacing an old bathtub is a rather laborious process. The bathtub itself is a bulky item that requires careful and careful handling. In addition, the installation of plumbing often has to be done in a cramped room, which complicates the work. However, the bottom line is worth it - the updated bath will refresh general interior bathroom, will make the room more functional and comfortable.

Replacement or restoration of an old bathtub

A bath, like any other item, has its own service life - it is limited to 10-20 years. After this period central element bathroom needs replacement. However when appearance the usual bath loses its attractiveness, many, first of all, think about its restoration. So what to do: install new bath or give a "second life" to the old one?

There are several opinions on this. Bathtub restoration will significantly save money, but it will not give any guarantee that after a couple of years (or maybe a couple of months) the appearance will not deteriorate. Buying a new bathing bowl will shake family budget and will require additional costs for installing the bath. At the same time, complete replacement has a number of significant advantages:

• the ability to completely change the interior of the bathroom;
• improving the functionality of the room - you can choose modern model compact size and exclusive shape;
• bath replacement is a great chance (if necessary) to change old ones water pipes and upgrade the mixer.

If possible, it is better to replace the bath. It is important to do this right choice and buy a high-quality model that will best fit the size of the room and will last a long time.

How to choose a new replacement bathtub

Each type of bath has pros and cons, which must be sorted out before going to the store. It is necessary to define three criteria for an optimal bath:

A few words about the material of manufacture:

Steel baths have a low cost, many sellers classify them as "economy class". However, the low price is not the only advantage of the steel bowl. Positive features:

• relative lightness of the product - steel baths weigh less than cast iron ones, but heavier than acrylic ones;
• in appearance steel bath practically does not differ from cast iron counterparts.

Disadvantages of steel models:

• poor thermal insulation - water cools very quickly;
• low level of noise isolation - a loud sound is created during dialing; some manufacturers offer a solution to the problem - installing a rubberized gasket on the bottom of the bath;
• deposition of yellowish plaque from dirty water on the walls of the bath.

Cast iron baths- "classics of the genre". Soviet cast iron baths gained their popularity due to their high quality workmanship. Of course, the design of the models leaves much to be desired. The main advantages of cast iron plumbing:

• strength and durability - the material is resistant to corrosion and mechanical stress;
• high thermal insulation keeps the water temperature for a long time;
• stability - cast iron baths do not move away from the wall after installation - this quality facilitates the laying of tiles.

Cons of cast iron models:

• a small selection of forms - cast-iron baths are predominantly rectangular;
• high weight - even lightweight modern bathtub will weigh from 120 kg - this parameter is especially important for residents of the upper floors, if the house does not have a freight elevator.

Acrylic bathtubs require special attention when choosing. In fact, acrylic models are plastic bowls reinforced with reinforcement. The composition is used as reinforcement epoxy resin and fiberglass. Some manufacturers strengthen the base acrylic bath metal mesh... The thickness of the reinforcement determines the quality of the bath. The price for acrylic products ranges from 8500 rubles. and higher.

The advantages of acrylic baths include:

• environmental friendliness and hygiene of the material of manufacture;
• ease of maintenance - it is enough to wipe the surface with a soft cloth;
• scratches and minor cracks can be restored;
• good thermal insulation - water cools down by 1 ° C in 30 minutes;
• ease of installation and ease of construction;
• high decorative qualities - it is acrylic bathtubs that produce unusual shapes and colors.

Advice. Buying acrylic models, it is necessary to view the edge of the bath rim and determine the number of reinforcing layers. High quality acrylic container emits a dull sound when tapped

Choice of piping for the bathroom

In addition to choosing a bathroom, you will also need to purchase a piping kit. When choosing, they pay attention to two main criteria:

• material of manufacture;
• design features.

The strapping is made of two materials: plastic and metal.

Distinctive features of plastic strapping:

• resistance to most chemicals;
• versatility - suitable for different types of bathrooms;
• affordable cost;
• ease of installation.

Metal rail (polished of stainless steel, copper and brass) has some disadvantages:

• difficulties in installation associated with the exact "fit" of the system elements;
• fast filling of pipes with grease and dirt;
• high price.

By constructive differences, they are distinguished:

The conventional universal design is more reliable and durable. It is not difficult to replace the tub trim with your own hands - the device has a minimum of elements.

Do-it-yourself bath replacement: step-by-step instructions

Dismantling an old bathtub

You may need help removing the cast iron bath. The process of "uprooting" an old specimen is not difficult, but the bath is very heavy and you won't be able to take it out on your own.

Before work, you should prepare some tools:

• plumbing key;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• screwdriver;
• slice;
• pliers.

It is necessary to disconnect the water outlet hose, which communicates with the sewer through a siphon. The next step is to remove the taps and water supply faucet. Outdated walled up siphons will have to be "uprooted", and the sewer system will have to be completely replaced with a new plastic one.

Important! If a ground wire is connected to the leg of the bathtub, then it must be left - this will protect the operation of the washing machine and other electrical appliances

Preparing for replacement

After the old bath is removed, you should prepare a place for the installation of a new model. The optimal solution is to equip a new floor. Remnants of the old coating, cracks in concrete, brick chips, particles of old paint and endless dust will constantly remind of themselves, if a complete floor repair is not carried out in a timely manner.

At this stage, it is important to resolve the issue of replacing pipes in the bathroom. It is better to remove old worn-out pipelines and install new plastic pipes.

Replacing pipes in the bathroom

Important! The authority to replace the central risers in the house is vested in employees of housing and communal authorities, arrangement internal wiring pipes - the concern of the owners of the apartment. In the event of an accident, the entire responsibility lies with the side carrying out the repair.

The main stages of replacing pipes in the bathroom with your own hands:

1. Cutting the old pipeline with a grinder. Possible difficulties during dismantling:
   • you will have to contact public utilities to turn off the water through the riser;
   • tie-in into the central sewer riser - it is quite difficult to disconnect the caulked connection without damaging the central drain; even a minor crack in the pipe can lead to emergency.
2. Installation internal sewerage. Individual elements the systems are interconnected, the joints are sealed with rubber gaskets. At this stage, it is important to correctly bring the sockets drain pipes... When laying the sewage system, a slope is laid - about 5 mm per one running meter.
3. Mounting plastic pipes water supply. For work, you will need specialized equipment: pipe scissors, a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes. Experienced craftsmen perform hidden wiring pipeline. As a result, the appearance of the bathroom does not deteriorate, only chrome elements plumbing system. With such an installation, it is required to punch deep grooves with a diameter of about 50 mm (a pipe dressed in a heat-insulating cover).

Additional nuances and subtleties of installing pipes in the bathroom:

1. It is advisable to equip each water intake point with an instrument tap. This provides additional usability and increases protection against possible gusts.
2. It is important to take care of water quality and install a filter rough cleaning... It is installed after the water tap cut off from the riser.
3. Sometimes it is required to install a pressure reducer to control the level of water flow.
4. After the gearbox and filter, a water meter must be installed.

Installation work

After supplying the sewer and supply pipes, you can bring in a new bath. Plumbing is exposed in such a way that there is a slight slope for unhindered drainage of water after swimming.

The legs are height adjustable. At the same time, you should not reduce the height of the stands - this is convenient during use, but if necessary, it will be problematic to replace the siphon oil seals. In addition, if a leak occurs, it is difficult to carry out renovation work under the most important nodes.

Bath tubing

The installation of the overflow and drain neck is approximately the same. Both parts consist of four pieces: faceplate, neck, gasket and screw.

Do-it-yourself bathroom drain replacement occurs in the following sequence:

1. Check the completeness of the piping, the presence of all pipes and gaskets.
2. In the place where the siphon is installed, clean the surface of the bath.
3. Check the neck for burrs. If available, delete them sandpaper, file or knife.
4. Insert the gasket into the neck and press it firmly against the bathtub.
5. Pass a screw through the center of the front cover - insert it from the back of the bath into the neck and tighten with a wide screwdriver.
6. Connect the overflow and drain neck with a corrugated hose. To do this, put nuts on the flat ends of the corrugation, pull the tapered gaskets with the wide side to the nut. Tighten by hand. In some trims, the corrugation is connected to the overflow without a nut - it is pulled over the fitting.
7. Connect the siphon with the plastic cap nut. It is imperative to lay a rubber gasket.
8. Bring in the branch pipe.

Do-it-yourself bath replacement: video

Replacing the mixer in the bathroom with your own hands

What are the requirements for a quality mixer?

1. Product weight. Reliable and durable mixer has a large mass - the thickness of the metal largely determines the service life of the plumbing.
2. Faucets are made from silumin (an alloy of silicon and aluminum) or brass. Silumin products are cheaper, but they are not very durable. Brass faucets have a presentable appearance and practically do not corrode.
3. Mixer parameters. It is important to take into account the length of the water supply pipe and determine the type of control - a tap or a lever.

The sequence of replacing the tap in the bathroom with your own hands:

1. Shut off and drain the water, dismantle the old mixer.
2. Clean the fittings from the side of the wall from paint residues and old winding.
3. Check the complete set of the new mixer. The set should include: the main unit, a shower hose and a watering can, a gander, decorative shades, gaskets, eccentrics.
4. Wrap the eccentrics with fum-tape and insert into the fittings.
5. Fit the main unit to the installed eccentrics. Remove the block and screw the decorative platforms onto the eccentrics so that they fit snugly against the wall.
6. Finally screw on the block and check the functionality of the mixer.

Replacing enamel in an old bathtub

If a decision is made to restore the bathroom, then you can use one of the methods.

Preparation of putty for enameled surfaces:

• calcined borax - 40 g;
• kaolin - 225 g;
• powdered siliceous sodium - 30 g;
• slaked lime - 20 g;
• powder glass - 20 g;
• finely ground ruffled - 60 g;
• water - about 100-125 ml.

Mix all substances in a porcelain container until smooth. Clean, degrease and treat the enamelled surface with putty. Leave to dry for 48 hours.

Recovery enamelled coating a whole line of special varnishes and enamels has been developed:

• Tikkurila Reaflex 50 is an epoxy paint used for painting bathtubs and concrete swimming pools;
• Epoxin 51 - enamels with different dyes, application - with a brush;
• Aquacolor - a set of products for the restoration of bathtubs; sealing chips extends the service life of the plumbing by 5 years.

The procedure for the restoration of the enamel coating:

1. In the bathroom, hold wet cleaning, wipe the dust. Remove rugs, towels and other textiles from the room.
2. Treat the surface of the bath detergent, clean with an abrasive - an emery stone, a drill with special nozzle or a grinder with a grinding wheel.
3. Repeat degreasing the bath and rinse big amount hot water.
4. Remove the overflow, siphon and treat the surface under them - degrease, rinse.
5. Apply acrylic enamel around the entire perimeter, starting from the top of the bath and the sides.
6. Leave the bath to dry completely - about 70 minutes (time depends on the air temperature in the room).

A successful do-it-yourself bath replacement is a simple and joyful job: after all, this is a necessary personal mini-reservoir, available at any time of the day or night - sea or river relaxation at all seasons, and without leaving home.

This is a universal place for the desired rest, hygiene, treatment for all kinds of diseases with herbs, sea ​​salt and other proven centuries folk remedies or modern advances in medicine and technology.

Bath device diagram

Replacement is better than restoration

Ancient bathtubs made of marble or wood, copper, silver and even gold have now been replaced by more acceptable and comfortable cast iron, steel, or the newer ones.

But all bathtubs have their own service life - 10 - 20 years, then they need to be replaced, and not a compromise plastic insert or restoration, even an epoxy coating, which will quickly lose their appearance and quality.

So it becomes possible to change the bath and bring novelty to our comfort by choosing fancy bath more suitable sizes, exclusive forms, giving comfort and health. and installing a new one is simple and does not require much time and effort, unlike choosing it.

Choosing a new bath

• Cast iron baths are traditional, reliable and durable. However, this classic takes a lot of heat from the water.

• The steel bathtub is just as durable, but lighter, although it is not without its drawbacks: the monotony of the models limits our imagination and the design of the room.
  And heat is poorly retained without certain heaters. And the enamel is annoyingly chipping off from light blows. But the installation is simple: insert the legs into the mountings, secure with metal wedges, put a bath on top of them - this is the whole installation.

It is necessary to put rubber plates under the legs of the steel bath.

• Acrylic bathtubs delight with warmth, lightness, variety of design, grace. They are also especially popular because the installation of an acrylic bathtub is not difficult: the kit includes a system of necessary fasteners.
  However, these baths must be protected from mechanical damage: the fall of a large spanner during installation, not only the surface can be damaged.

Dismantling an old bathtub

Bathtubs replacement begins with dismantling the old bathtub.

• Disconnecting the water outlet, communicating with the sewer through a siphon, and taps - mixers for filling it with water. You can completely cope with this work on your own, and only to take out and bring in the bathtubs you need to call assistants: cast iron and steel products are heavy and inconvenient for rearrangement.
• Old cast iron siphons can be tightly walled up... But, when the old bath is completely unscrewed and starts to move, everything will disappear by itself. When replacing a bath, it is also best to replace part of the service piping.

Required tools

• plumbing adjustable wrench,
• screwdrivers,
• pliers,
• a chisel to knock off the old plaster,
• a crowbar to move the tub.

Note!

The old ground wire, usually screwed to the leg of the bathtub, must be kept: Washer and other electrical appliances are dangerous without grounding.

Installing a new bath

Observing a certain sequence, all actions for replacing the bath can be done independently.

Site preparation

To change the bath, you must first thoroughly clean and repair the entire space under the bath, so as not to be upset by the constant reminder of the former devastation - this will save 50% of future pollution and more.

Dust in cracks in concrete, sprinkled old paint and brick chips from under the bathtub will then constantly settle on the walls and furniture.

Installation of legs

You should not reduce the height of the legs when installing the bath: when it becomes necessary to replace the siphon seals, the free technological space provided by the engineers will allow this, as well as eliminate the leak under the most important nodes.

The legs are adjustable so that the remaining water flows away by gravity

Creating a new harness

We connect the siphon to the sewer riser with a rubber cuff. The corrugated pipe of the siphon can be formed in such a way as to eliminate the possibility of any blockages, that is, to make the bending to a minimum.

Installation of piping

Installation of the outlet

It is inconvenient to mount the outlet, because it is located at the lowest point... This makes it difficult to install the siphon. But you can first connect the siphon to the sewer, and then install the bath, provided that it is not cast iron - it is difficult to put it exactly in the right place the first time.

To do this, we put a coupling directly into the pipe socket, into which we then insert the siphon branch pipe. But before that, the rubber sleeve must be lubricated from the inside and outside with silicone sealant.

The siphon is installed according to the scheme

Bath connection

When the siphon is already installed, we put the bathtub. Even when installing an acrylic bathtub, an assistant is needed: one from the bottom presses the outlet of the siphon to the bathtub drain, and the second will insert and twist the neck.

But first, it is necessary to put a gasket on the outside between the bottom of the bath and the outlet of the siphon. A silicone sealant on both sides of the gasket will facilitate installation.

Overflow installation

• We connect the hose and the overflow neck: put a plastic nut on the hose, then a wedge-shaped gasket, with the narrow end to the hose cut.
• Insert the hose into a thin pipe and tighten the nut, which will push this gasket into the pipe and securely fix the hose.
• Connect the other end of the overflow hose to the ready-made installed siphon.
• Then press the overflow to the hole and screw in the threaded neck. We put the washer, lubricated with sealant, between the bathtub and the overflow body.

Tighten all connections by hand. And with a fork wrench or pliers, you need to tighten the throat of the main outlet and overflow.

Finally, we perform cladding

Checking work

Pour some water into the tub and then drain it. If water seeps somewhere, tighten the connection. It is advisable to use the bathroom only 6 hours after installation - this time is quite enough for the silicone to polymerize.

As you can see, replacing the bathtub on your own is not difficult even for those who have not previously had to perform plumbing work.

Note that the installation of the bath and its connection is not an easy task. This is mainly due to the fact that the bath is an object that should be handled with great care. After all, there is nothing easier than accidentally chipping off the enamel of the coating - but the restoration will be quite laborious.

Note! When purchasing an acrylic bathtub, you need to take into account the possibility of its delivery to the installation site, because if it does not freely enter the doorway, then excessive efforts can lead to a crack in the product.

When working, you will need certain tools:

• a pipe wrench for plumbing work is considered the main one;
• a screwdriver, hammer, chisel, crowbar, pliers - all this with a high degree of probability may also be needed.

Note! When you dismantle the old bathtub, you can see that the ground has been connected to it. It's best to keep it. And if it is not there, think about how to install a new one.

Installation work

Gradually, we figure out what and in what sequence to perform:

• Preparing a place for installation works. The best solution will renovate the entire floor area under the new bathroom. And do not think that no one will see anything - the accumulation of dirt must be eliminated first of all for oneself.
• We install a new bathtub by adjusting the height of the legs. Remember that there should always be a way to get to the siphon under the bathroom if the need arises.
• Adjust the feet so that all the water drains out of the tub.
• After completing the installation, we begin the installation of new trim elements. At the same time, given the fragility of the materials, tighten the nuts without undue effort so as not to damage the connections.
• We connect the drain siphon. As a rule, it is mounted to the riser with a rubber collar. Corrugated hose in this case, it should be shaped in such a way that in the future it does not form blockages.

Many people seek to lay the space around the bathroom. brickwork and tiled. Thus, you will be able to keep warm in the bathroom a little longer, and you can hide various household accessories down. But, by restricting access under the bath, in an emergency, you will not be able to quickly fix the breakdown. The optimal solution the installation of a screen that covers everything that will be below is considered. And outwardly everything will be beautiful, and if necessary, there will always be access to the pipes.

• Another type of work is the sealing of joints. In this case, the silicone sealant has proven itself excellent. His consumption is quite large, so he will have to buy with a margin.
• If there is a large seam between the bathroom and the walls, it can be closed in a fairly well-known way, which is described.

In a word - the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing. Having all the tools, some experience in home repairs and a savvy assistant, you will be able to independently carry out the entire range of necessary activities in a fairly short time.

Note! There are a lot of options for new baths on sale today, but cast iron is a durable and practical product.

Video

This video shows the whole process of installing a new bath, starting with leveling the floor:

The bath has great importance for any home and people living in it. After all, where else can you so relax and gain new strength? The bath is truly the most important item for hygiene and relaxation. That is why you so want it to be in perfect condition. This will allow you to really enjoy being in it.

General diagram of the bath installation.

Timely bath replacement is essential. Someone may say that it is better to repair or restore the old, but in the case of this item, things are a little different. Change this important element houses are needed every 10-20 years. It all depends on how worn out it is. There are a few subtleties that need to be learned before a replacement is made. These are kind of highlights.

Which bath to choose: the advantages of different options

The cast iron bathtub is a true classic of the genre.

Until now, it is she who has been installed in many houses, despite the fact that now there are quite a few alternative options... The advantages of a cast-iron bath are that it is a durable option that can serve faithfully for a long time. In terms of price, the cast-iron beauty has no equal: it is very affordable. Among the disadvantages of cast iron: heavy weight and rapid temperature loss in the water in the cast iron bath.

Bath installation diagram.

A steel bath can be a great place to relax, but only if handled with care. The thing is that it is highly susceptible to corrosion. However, this problem is easy to solve. You just need to install a screen under the bath. Together with this, another problem of the steel bath will be solved, which is that the water in it cools quickly. But if you want to search original solutions in terms of shape, a steel bathtub would not be the best choice.

An acrylic bathtub is good in many ways. It is light in weight, and the variety of its shapes can please any lover of original design solutions... It keeps the warmth more than well, which cannot be said about its predecessors. It is very easy to install an acrylic bathtub. You can even do it yourself. But still, there were some drawbacks. Like a bath must be carefully protected from all kinds of blows and damage, since this is quite susceptible to this.

But how can you replace an old bathtub with a new one with your own hands? It seems that everything is too complicated? In fact, this is not the case. And it's time to talk about it in detail.

Dismantling the old bath and preparing the site

Almost any installation begins with dismantling, and therefore first you need to talk about how to remove everything old. For the whole process, you will need the following components:

• hammer;
• chisel;
• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• scrap (may be needed to move the structure);
• new bath;
• corrugated pipe (it needs to be replaced even if the old one is still good).

Bath arrangement diagram.

So, first you need to disconnect the water outlet, which is connected to the sewer through a siphon. At the same time, all taps are closed. After that, you can unscrew, and then take out the bath stream. Better to do it as a team. This is not necessary mainly for security reasons. Yes, and it is difficult to carry out such a complex matter alone. Cast iron and steel elements are especially heavy in weight. Often you may need to knock down the cladding. This is easy and simple to do with a hammer and chisel or drill. You need to be careful with the last element.

Everything old has been removed, which means that you can start clearing the place. What is it? You just need to do the cleaning so that you do not get upset later with the constantly arising white dust and other debris. Both wet and dry cleaning is required.

Replacing the bath: starting the installation of the structure

Installation begins with the installation of the legs. They are necessary because in the future it may be necessary to repair the leak or replace the siphon. Moreover, it is necessary from a technical point of view.

After that, you need to install the strapping. It is screwed on with nuts. Then the siphon is connected to the sewer. In the process, a special cuff must be applied, as well as plumbing gaskets. By the way, if you make a bend corrugated pipe minimal, then in the future this can significantly reduce the frequency and intensity of blockages.

Now it's time to edit the issue. Sometimes it is somewhat inconvenient to mount it. This is due to the fact that it is located quite low. But you can make the process a little easier. So, a rubber sleeve must be placed in the socket. Then a drain pipe is inserted there. By the way, there is a little trick here. You can lubricate the sleeve with a silicone sealant. This is another factor that makes the job easier.

The time has come when you can install the bath itself. It is imperative to install a gasket between the bottom and the outlet of the drain. Silicone sealant on both sides will be useful.

You will need help getting the bathtub in place. And the point is not even that the element is heavy in itself or it is difficult to replace it. One person must connect the outlet of the siphon to the drain of the bath, and the second at this time is engaged in the neck, and more specifically inserts and twists it.

Then you can proceed to the installation of the overflow. The overflow neck and the hose are connected. For this, a nut and a gasket (wedge-shaped) are placed on the last element. The hose is inserted into a thin tube and then the nut is tightened. She will also push the gasket, which in turn will help in fixing the hose. The other end is connected to the previously installed siphon. Finally, the overflow is pressed against the hole, the neck is screwed in. A pre-lubricated washer is placed between the tub and overflow. Everything must be done fairly firmly so that subsequently there are no leaks.

Now you can conduct tests that will reveal how well and how well the work was done. The main indicator of quality is the absence of bath leakage. Doing everything on your own is not so difficult. May the replacement be successful!