When building a garage, special attention should be paid to the floor. If the surface becomes damp, emit a lot of dust, and will not be able to withstand the load, this will negatively affect the safety of the car. Do DIY garage floor can be done in several ways, each of which has its advantages. A concrete screed is considered a classic base, but other floor options are also in demand: earthen, self-leveling, wooden and even tiled.

The cheapest floor is earthen. It does not require financial costs, has a very simple device, but at the same time has low strength and strongly absorbs moisture. Such coverage can be done temporarily if the construction budget is very limited. Also this option suitable for those who do not often use the garage and are on the road most of the time.

The process of arranging an earthen floor is very simple:

• when marking the site for the foundation, the entire vegetation layer is removed;
• after filling the base inner space clean and level;
• using a rammer, carefully compact the base;
• when the roof has already been mounted in the garage, a layer of oily clay with a thickness of 10 cm or more is poured onto the floor;
• carefully tamp the base.

You can do without clay, but it significantly increases the strength of the floor and provides good protection from moisture.

Concrete floor

Concrete screed is the most popular coating in private garages. Such a floor can withstand very strong and uneven loads, is not afraid of fire, is resistant to various oils, solvents and gasoline, and is durable. Concrete can pull moisture, but correct device the floor completely eliminates such risks. Although the volume of work is quite large and will require a lot of time and physical effort, the process itself has a simple technology.

Construction stages:

• making inspection pit;
• floor level markings;
• soil preparation;
• backfill with sand and gravel;
• laying waterproofing;
• reinforcement;
• pouring the floor.

All work is carried out after the completion of the construction of the garage, but before the start interior decoration premises.

Step 1. Preparation of the pit

A viewing pit is not a must for every garage; it is needed only by those who independently repair their car. It should be noted that the pit cannot be made on an area where the groundwater level is 2.5 m. The place for it is usually chosen in the center of the room, departing from the entrance a certain distance.

Having determined the location of the pit, they dig a pit. Its parameters:

• width 75-80 cm + 30 cm for waterproofing;
• depth - the height of the garage owner + 30 cm;
• length - vehicle length + 1.5 m.

On the ground, they mark the boundaries of the pit and begin to dig. During work, you need to ensure that all walls remain as vertical and even as possible. After excavation, the floor is compacted with a rammer, then a thin layer of clay is poured and tamped again. Further, the bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of roofing material, the edges of which are slightly turned up on the walls.

A concrete mixture is poured over the roofing material to a height of 7 to 10 cm. The top of the concrete is leveled and left to dry. It is not necessary to cover the pit while the solution dries.

Step 2. Wall masonry

When the concrete in the pit has hardened enough, you can lay out the walls. For these purposes, red fired bricks and aerated concrete blocks are best suited. Laying is carried out immediately around the entire perimeter, it is impossible to lay each wall separately. So, the first row is laid according to the level, leaving about 15-20 cm between the walls of the pit and the brick. The protruding mortar is immediately removed with a trowel so that when finishing the pit, the frozen concrete does not have to be knocked down.

Wall masonry. Metal corner around the perimeter

All subsequent rows are laid out with an offset of the vertical seams, which helps to strengthen the walls. To keep the masonry vertical, check every 2-3 rows with a level; it is not recommended to build more than 6 rows of bricks at a time. The last row of bricks should be 6-7 cm below the threshold. Subsequently on brick walls a metal corner will be laid, which should not protrude above the floor surface.

Step 3. Waterproofing the pit

After two to three days, the walls of the pit can be waterproofed from the outside. Using a thick roller on a long handle, cover the brick surface with a primer and leave to dry. Next, the bituminous mastic is heated, and with the same roller it is applied to the walls with a dense layer. Filling the free space behind the pit walls with soil is carried out after the mastic has completely dried. The voids should be filled with soil layer by layer with compulsory ramming, otherwise under concrete pavement the earth will sink and cracks will form.

Step 4. Marking the floor level

The markings are done with a laser or water level, a regular construction one is not suitable here. If you have a laser level, the whole process will take a few minutes, but marking with a water level will take more time. For convenience, the markings are made at a distance of 1 m from the subfloor, and then transferred to the zero mark. So, first, 1 m is measured upwards from the threshold and put a mark with a pencil. Then one end of the level is attached to the mark, and the other to the adjacent wall, where the water level in the tube will show the location of the next mark.

Thus, 2-3 marks are left on each of the walls; after that, 102 cm is measured down from the upper beacons and marks are also put with a pencil. It remains only to beat off the marking line with a coated cord, and zero level defined.

Step 5. Preparing the base

In the process of building a garage, excess soil and construction waste remains inside the building. All this must be removed, after which an additional layer of earth must be removed to a depth of 30 cm. The depth must be the same over the entire area, therefore, all visible irregularities must be cleaned off with a shovel. With the help of a rammer, the soil itself is carefully compacted, then a layer of sand and clay 3-5 cm thick is poured, spilled with water and again take up the rammer. The higher the density of the substrate, the stronger the floor will be.

Step 6. Arrangement of sand and gravel cushions

The thickness of the gravel layer is 10 cm. If the garage is large, it will be difficult to fill in a layer of the required thickness without additional measurements, so the task can be simplified. For this, wooden pegs of the required height are driven into the ground, placing them in even rows. Having filled up the gravel to this level, you should tamp it well, pull out the pegs and fill the voids with the same gravel.

In a small garage, you can do it differently: in each corner and in the middle of the walls at a level of 10 cm, you need to put a bright mark. This technique will help you quickly fill up the gravel without wasting time on measurements. The next layer is sand; it can be fine or coarse, even with an admixture of clay, but without debris and large lumps... For greater compaction, a sand cushion is spilled with water and tamped again. In conclusion, check the plane of the base with a large building level or a rule to avoid unevenness.

Crushed stone with a diameter of 40-50 mm is poured onto the sand, the thickness of this layer is about 5 cm. The surface is leveled, compacted, covered with a small amount of sand and moistened. Ram again, trying not to leave sharp protrusions. Finally, the base is poured with lean concrete, the layer thickness of which is 3 cm.

Lean concrete is kneaded in the following proportion:

• 1 part cement;
• 3 parts sifted sand;
• 6 pieces of fine crushed stone.

This solution has low strength, but it perfectly levels the base under the screed. Concrete is poured onto crushed stone, leveled over the entire area with the rule and left to dry.

Step 7. Waterproofing the floor

When the concrete is dry, it is treated with any primer mixture.

Special membranes are used as waterproofing, roll materials, bituminous mastic and liquid rubber. Roofing material, film, membrane are spread on the floor, and the edges are brought onto the walls. The canvases must be laid with an overlap of 10 cm. Very often roofing material is laid directly on hot mastic, then the sheet adheres tightly to the base and reliably protects the floor from moisture.

Step 8. Reinforcement

For reinforcement, you will need a metal mesh with a mesh size of 10x10 or 15x15 cm. It is cooked from reinforcement with a cross section of 5 mm. The mesh is laid so that about 5 cm remains between its edges and walls. The same distance must be left around the perimeter of the inspection pit. In addition, the mesh should be slightly raised above the surface, so plastic or metal supports 2 cm high are placed under the rods.

Step 9. Installing beacons

In order for the floor to be perfectly flat, you need to do the screed along the beacons. Metal corners, a profile can act as such beacons, but it is most convenient to use steel tubes small diameter, for example 25 mm. To fix the guides, knead a little solution, and the pipes themselves are abundantly lubricated with machine oil. Lighthouses should be located in even horizontal rows, the distance between which is 1.2-1.5 m. Piles of mortar are thrown on the floor along the wall every 15 cm and the first pipe is laid on them. Using a level, they expose it horizontally and at the same time level it at the zero mark. When all the guides are installed, you should check their horizontal position again. For this, the level is placed perpendicular to 2 or 3 beacons.

Along the perimeter of the garage, it is necessary to leave small gaps between the screed and the walls with a width of 1-2 cm and fill them with a damper tape. This will help prevent damage to the coating when the garage shrinks. Now it remains to weld the frame from the corners for the inspection pit. A steel corner 50x50 mm is cut into 4 parts according to the size of the pit and welded in the form of a rectangle. The finished frame is primed and dried, and then laid on brick walls. If desired, you can paint the corner with red lead - this will provide additional protection against corrosion. Under the weight concrete mortar the frame may deform a little; to prevent this from happening, the corners should be reinforced with temporary struts from a bar.

Step 10. Filling the screed

First you need to calculate the approximate volume of the solution. To do this, the floor area is multiplied by the height of the screed, which is 5 cm.For example, if the area is 35 square meters, then the screed will require at least 1.75 cubic meters concrete mix... A solution is prepared in a ratio of 1: 3, and it is better to take cement grades 400-500, and sand can be replaced by screening.

The solution must be sufficiently thick and homogeneous, therefore it must be mixed very thoroughly. The finished mass is poured between the lighthouses so that the solution covers them, and then, using a metal rule, is carried out along the pipes and all excess is pulled together. The rule must be strongly pressed on both sides and led evenly, then the surface of the screed is simultaneously compacted and leveled.

1-2 days after pouring, the guides must be carefully removed from the screed. Since the pipes have been lubricated with oil, this process does not require much effort. The grooves from the beacons are filled with the same solution and the surface is left to dry. It is recommended to moisten the floor regularly to avoid cracking; You can also cover the surface with wet sawdust and periodically spray it with water. After 10-12 days, the sawdust is swept away, and the floor dries up already in the open state. It usually takes about 4 weeks for the concrete screed to dry completely.

Ceramic tiles

This option is quite costly as quality floor tiles are expensive. But such a floor looks great, is easy to clean, and emits very little dust. Tiles must be bought with a wear resistance class of at least 5, and if there is no heating in the garage, then frost-resistant. It is recommended to lay it no earlier than 2 years after the construction of the garage, otherwise the coating will deform during shrinkage.

For work you will need:

• primer;
• tile adhesive;
• ceramic tile;
• notched trowel;
• level;
• plastic crosses for seams;
• grout.

Step 1. Prepare the base

The tiles are laid on a concrete base. If the rough screed has been damaged during operation, all irregularities must be repaired. cement mortar, remove dust and cover with two coats of primer. A high-quality screed is easy enough to prime.

Step 2. Floor covering

The adhesive composition is diluted according to the instructions and allowed to brew for 10 minutes. Part of the glue is applied to the back of the tile, the rest is applied to the floor with a notched trowel. The tiles are applied to the floor, leveled and gently pressed. Plastic spacers are inserted between adjacent fragments, which ensure the uniformity of the seams. After leveling, the tiles are checked with a level so that the floor is perfectly flat. The glue should not get on the front side of the ceramic; all accidental splashes and smears should be immediately wiped off with a rag.

Step 3. Grouting

After laying, you need to wait 3 days and wipe the seams. For this it is used special composition based on cement. The seams are moistened, and then the working mixture is applied with a narrow rubber spatula. After filling the seam, the excess is removed with a neat, sharp movement. When the process is complete, the grout is allowed to set for half an hour, after which the seams are washed with a damp sponge. You can drive into the garage by car after 2 weeks, when the glue is completely dry and the floor gets the required strength.

Self-leveling flooring is expensive, but the advantages of such a coating justify the cost. The service life of the self-leveling floor is at least 40 years, it has a very high strength, is easy to clean, does not burn, and has a perfectly flat surface. Epoxy and polyurethane industrial compounds are best suited for the garage. You can do the installation yourself, because the filling technology is very simple.

Step 1. Preparatory work

The rough base is cleaned of dust and all cracks are repaired. Recesses more than 3 cm deep are also filled with mortar and dried. After that, the floor is primed twice.

Step 2. Pouring the mixture

The floor solution is prepared exactly according to the instructions, otherwise the quality of the coating will decrease. During operation, the temperature in the garage should not be less than 10 and above 25 degrees. If the room is large, the filling is carried out in stages, dividing the area into several sections. Smooth the mixture with a needle roller, carefully removing air bubbles. It will take about 20 days to dry, after which the coating is ready for use.

Wooden floors in garages are very rare. Despite the ease of installation, low cost and environmental friendliness of the material, such a coating is not popular. Even the densest wood cannot withstand the loads from a car for more than 5 years. Plus, wood floors are highly flammable, and in a garage where gasoline, oil and thinner are stored, it is doubly dangerous.

If you still want to make a wooden floor, the installation technology is simple and straightforward:

Video - DIY garage floor

Ecology of consumption. Homestead: For intensive loads, the floor must not only have a stable supporting system, but also have a high surface strength. Of course, we must not forget about automotive chemicals, the contact of which with the floor in the garage has a high probability. We will tell you how to equip the floor correctly and at no extra cost.

For intensive loads, the floor must not only have a stable supporting system, but also have a high surface strength. Of course, we must not forget about automotive chemicals, the contact of which with the floor in the garage has a high probability. We will tell you how to equip the floor correctly and at no extra cost.

Floor requirements and acceptable types of its device

According to the current operational load, the garage floor occupies an intermediate link between ordinary household and road surfaces. There are three main risk factors for the garage floor:

1. Load from vehicles and garage equipment.
2. Impact, such as from dropped tools and parts.
3. Chemical attack from automotive process fluids.

As you can see, in comparison with roadbed the garage floor is not affected except by atmospheric and weather influences. For this reason, the use of materials such as asphalt concrete is not only impractical, but sometimes even undesirable. Of the most suitable device systems, three are:

1. Concrete screed.
2. Wooden flooring.
3. Gravel or paving stones.

Before you understand the advantages and disadvantages of each system, as well as determine the most profitable for your garage, focus on the economic aspect. It is foolish to hope that for a penny it will be possible to arrange a floor of unprecedented reliability, at the same time, today we will not consider such options as a polished mosaic or bulk polymer floor. Some costs for the purchase of materials cannot be avoided in any way, but in the end it all depends on the foresight of the master and the correctness of the work on the device of the selected type of floor.

Screed and its processing

Filling the floor with concrete in most cases can be called the best option. Mainly for the reason that most often no screed has to be poured: in many garages, the floor is made of concrete by default and only needs to eliminate such shortcomings as curvature and dustiness.

If the garage is under construction or design, concrete flooring is in most cases the cheapest solution. Its filling is usually performed simultaneously with the foundation or flashing of the inspection pit. It is enough just to pre-assemble the formwork and use the simplest reinforcement. Since the entire floor slab is located in the room, which means that it does not experience heating from the sun and is not subject to significant thermal deformations, the installation of expansion joints is not necessary. On the other hand, since the garage has the opportunity (and sometimes the need) to fill up to the optimal level, the thickness of the screed itself can be very small - about 5 cm, that is, in fact, only the upper and lower protective layer of concrete. With an average garage area of ​​30 m 2, concrete work will require only 1.5–2 m 3 of the mixture, that is, you can prepare the entire volume of concrete yourself using a rented concrete mixer.

The concrete floor in the garage is a classic version of the device. Even if the existing screed has already been in use for more than 15-20 years, it is likely to fully comply technical requirements... Investments are needed in two cases:

1. To correct the slope. To level large holes in which water can accumulate, it is enough to fill the floor with the cheapest self-leveling screed compound. This will also further strengthen the surface, but only if the layer thickness is not less than the permissible one according to the instructions.

2. To eliminate dust. Almost any concrete floor is gradually erased, forming a lot of fine dust, from which even wet cleaning... This phenomenon can be prevented by grinding the top layer (8–10 mm), or by ironing, or by priming followed by painting. Please note that if the floor has been filled with a leveling screed, use epoxy primers and polyurethane paint no need, universal impregnation will suffice acrylic emulsion and coatings with alkyd enamel in several layers.

Is it acceptable to install a wooden floor

Now let's take a look at some more exotic garage flooring options and start with the boardwalk. Such a system is often preferred due to its heat-saving properties. Car enthusiasts who spend a long time under the bottom of their iron horse know well the difference in which floor they have to work on - concrete or wooden.

At its core, the idea of ​​a wooden floor seems to be advantageous in many ways. No need for dirty concrete works, the process can be divided into several stages to work at a convenient time. But since wood has less durability compared to mineral materials, for such a floor there is an additional number of harmful effects:

• Organic damage to wood.
• Drying and loosening of the flooring over time.
• Transport and equipment load.

It is noteworthy that some of the factors are overlapping. However, due to minor modifications, the standard floor structure on logs can be made quite suitable for garage conditions. The first is high-quality stabilization of wood: mineral impregnation with fire-biological protection or digestion in waste oil. Such processing is subject to lags and backside boards going to the flooring.

The second change is filling the voids under the floor with dry compacted mixture. To do this, in the pit of the garage, it is necessary to arrange waterproofing, for example, spread a polyethylene film in two layers on a compacted sand embankment, carefully gluing the joints with an overlap. After that, the lag system is mounted, they are directed across the entry line, resting on the ledges of the foundation and the edges of the inspection pit lining. Before laying the boardwalk, the entire space between the logs is densely filled with a mixture of dry sand with fluff in a ratio of 10: 1, the filler is rammed in layers of 30–35 mm. It is not necessary to use a tongue-and-groove board, but the joining should be very careful. To prevent dust from blowing out from under the flooring, the logs and filler are covered with one layer of film on top.

Bulk floor

Obviously, the cost of installing a floor should be comparable to the intensity of its use. So, if the garage is used exclusively as a storage place for transport and nothing more, then neither the concrete nor the wooden floor justifies the time and money spent. But the usual gravel embankment is still how it justifies.

There is nothing tricky in such a system, but you need to protect the floor from moisture from the soil. For this purpose, excavation is carried out over the entire area of ​​the garage and the installation of a clay castle with a thickness of at least 25 cm.That is, dry crushed clay is poured onto the bottom, which is mixed with water and pounded with feet. Usually the whole process is divided into 2-3 stages: first, knead and give 1-2 days for swelling, then add water or dry clay to bring the consistency to normal. On the final stage the surface is washed out several times with the addition of new portions of a more liquid clay, which fills the cracks formed during the drying process.

A carefully rammed embankment of sand and gravel is arranged on top of the castle. To prevent punching between the layers, they are separated by geotextiles. It is important that the embankment is tamped really well, and the upper 8–10 cm is filled with mixed gravel. Otherwise, the floor will have to be repaired frequently, leveling the resulting track.

Tiled and paved floor

Finally, consider enough a budget option floor devices, which provide a more or less acceptable look and retain the ability to work in the garage with convenience. It will focus on laying paving slabs and other materials suitable for paving.

In this flooring system, most attention is paid to bedding. It should be carried out by screening out granite chips or blast-furnace slag, preferably sieved and uniform fraction. Such stringent requirements as for street laying are not imposed, because the structure is not subject to intensive washout. A layer of 10–12 cm will be enough, poured in 3 passes with alternating manual compaction. Each layer must also be leveled with a rule, along the way setting the slope to divert water flowing from the car.

Anything can be used as a topcoat, from illiquid bricks to ordinary bricks. paving slabs... It is better to give preference to large-format materials, for example, concrete tiles dimensions 30x30 cm. This way the work will go faster, and it will be easier to carry out the transfer in the future. And do not forget about the lining: at the end of the installation, pour a mixture of fine sand and 300 grade cement in equal proportions on the floor, and then carefully place it, ensuring that all cracks and joints are filled.published by

If you have any questions on this topic, ask the experts and readers of our project.

The safety of a car in a garage depends on many factors. The presence of strong walls, a solid roof and reliable gates are just some of them. The latter is a durable and reliable garage floor. From what type of floor will be equipped, its insulation, materials and construction used, its durability and reliability will depend. You can create a high-quality floor in the garage with your own hands.

The garage floor must be very strong to withstand uneven vehicle loads

Garage floor requirements

When creating a floor in a garage with your own hands, you need to know the features of a particular type of floor, as well as be guided by certain requirements put forward by the specifics of the place of their operation. The criteria for choosing a particular type of floor are:

• high resistance to chemical products (gasoline, oils, solvents, etc.);
• high resistance to mechanical stress;
• high surface strength;
• fire safety and high moisture resistance;
• simplicity of design and its arrangement;
• durability.

Types of floors

Most of all, the following types of floors meet the above criteria:

• Ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware;
• Filled polymer floors.

To be fair, it should be noted that there are also wooden floors. But their compliance with the requirements for reliability, durability, fire hazard and strength as a floor in a garage is approaching zero. Therefore, we will not consider them in this article.

Garage flooring - layered pie

Most often, the garage is built on the ground, which is reflected in the structure and structure of the floor. When creating a floor on the ground, it is necessary to take into account the level of groundwater, the depth of which should be at least 4 - 5 m, and the ground should not be mobile.

All work on the creation of the floor in the garage should be carried out after the walls have been erected and the roof has been equipped. This is the only way to ensure the quality of work. The volume of work performed is quite large and consists of several stages:

1. Arrangement of a viewing pit;
2. marking the level of the future floor;
3. soil clearing and compaction;
4. laying a pillow of sand, gravel and "skinny" concrete;
5. arrangement of an insulating layer;
6. reinforcement and installation of guide beacons;
7. filling the screed and creating a topcoat.

It should be noted right away that when designing a garage and building it, it is necessary to think over two important points, on which not only the design of the garage will depend, but also the floor itself. The first is the presence of a viewing hole. The second is the presence of a basement. The option of arranging both is possible.

Observation pit

Before making the floor in the garage, you should take care of the inspection pit. Of course, it is not at all necessary to do it, but those who prefer to repair and maintain their car on their own cannot do without a viewing hole.

Important! If the garage is built in a place where the groundwater depth is about 2.5 m, then you will have to drain or completely abandon the pit.

In the middle of the garage, we dig a foundation pit for arranging a viewing pit

First, we dig a foundation pit for a pit. We set the dimensions of the pit based on the dimensions of the future inspection pit: width 75 - 80 cm, calculate the depth based on the owner's height, and add another 30 cm to it, take the length of the pit 1 - 1.5 m more than the length of the car. We add another 50 cm to these dimensions for convenience. brickwork and its waterproofing.

The floor of the inspection pit can be made of concrete, and the walls can be laid out of bricks.

Having dug a pit of the required size, we proceed to compacting the soil in it. To do this, fill in a small layer of clay and tamp it with an ordinary log with nailed handles. Since there will be practically no load on the floor in the pit, it is not possible to ram very tightly. After that, we put roofing material on the bottom and pour concrete on top with a layer of 7 - 10 cm. The result will be the simplest one with minimal waterproofing.

After the concrete dries up, and it will be possible to stand on it, we proceed to the brickwork of the walls. We use for these purposes any brick or aerated concrete blocks... We carry out the masonry and make sure that its upper edge is 5 - 7 cm below the threshold in the garage. This is important, since a 5x5 corner will lie on top of the brick, into which the boards covering the pit will be laid.

After completing the brickwork and giving it a couple of days to dry out, we proceed to its external waterproofing. This is where it comes in handy big size pit. We process the surface of the masonry with a primer deep penetration, let it dry and apply waterproofing by simply coating the outer side of the brickwork with bitumen mastic. This can be done by heating the mastic over a fire and spreading it with a roller or brush. Such simple insulation will help to avoid the accumulation of excess moisture in the pit. After completing all the work, let the mastic dry, after which we fill the remaining voids behind the walls of the pit with soil and tamp it tightly.

Marking the level of the future floor

First of all, it is necessary to note the zero level of the floor. For these purposes, you can use a laser or water level. If there is laser level, then simply install it in the middle of the room and outline a line along the laser beam.

But in the case of the water one, you will have to work hard. First, we measure the height 150 cm from the threshold level and set a mark. After that, take the water level and transfer the mark to the adjacent wall. To do this, we put one end of the level to the mark, and the other to the adjacent wall. Moving the second end of the level up or down, we achieve that the water level on the other side coincides with the mark. As soon as it works, we put a mark on the second end. We carry out this operation for all walls, making 2 marks on each. From these marks we measure down 152 cm and put new marks. Having connected the two bottom marks on each wall with a colored painting cord, pull it back and release it. The result will be a straight line on all walls - this will be the zero floor level.

Clearing and compacting the soil

After completing the markup, you can start deleting excess soil... We remove all construction waste and remove about 30 - 40 cm of the top layer of soil. Then we take in our hands the already familiar log with handles and begin to compact the soil. If the soil in the pit could not be tamped very tightly, then the soil under the floor in the garage itself would have to be tamped more tightly. Pour a small layer of clay and sand, moisten with water and start tamping. Of course, a log with handles is not the most best tool for compaction of soil. Therefore, if possible, it is better to rent a special vibrating plate. In any case, the result of all the compaction work should be a surface on which only slightly noticeable traces remain when walking.

Laying a cushion of sand, gravel and "skinny" concrete

Each layer of bedding (pillow) is carefully tamped

Any flooring on the ground, if not wood, is a multi-layered cake, and a garage floor is no exception. Therefore, after compacting the soil, we pour a layer of gravel. Its thickness will be about 10 cm and, to make it easier to navigate, we drive in several rows of pegs, leaving them sticking out above the ground at the height we need. As soon as they fell asleep the right amount gravel, we begin to tamp it. We are trying to achieve maximum density. When we finish tamping, we take out the pegs and fill the voids with gravel.

After the gravel, the next layer is sand. The thickness of the sand layer is the same as that of gravel - 10 cm. For ease of control of the layer thickness, we drive in the pegs again. To achieve a tighter compaction of sand, pour water over it and compact it. It should be noted that when choosing sand for a pillow under the floor, you can stop at the ravine sand. It contains small admixtures of clay, which only suits us. Having tamped the sand, we take out the pegs and fill up the voids.

Important! To make the floor in the garage even, at the stage of creating a multi-layer cake and tamping all its layers, it is necessary to control the horizontal plane using a two-meter alcohol level.

The next layer after the sand will be crushed stone with a fraction of 40 - 50 mm. Fill in a 5 cm layer and ram it as tightly as possible. Pour a thin layer of sand on top of the compacted rubble, moisten it with water and lightly tamp it. It is important that the resulting surface does not have sharp protruding edges.

The next layer will be 2 - 3 cm of "skinny" concrete. It will act as an underlayment for the finishing screed.

Insulating layer

The safety of the car in the garage directly depends on the level of humidity in it. And if inside the room ventilation helps to fight moisture, then waterproofing is required to reduce the penetration of moisture through the floor.

Important! Some car enthusiasts insulate the garage floor in an effort to ensure the maximum safety of the car. Floors with an insulating layer are called floating floors. Of course, they fulfill their role, but their strength suffers somewhat. In this article, we are considering the most reliable and durable floor on the ground with a waterproofing layer.

The waterproofing layer is built over a layer of "skinny" concrete, treated with a deep penetration primer. The following materials are used as waterproofing: bitumen-polymer and bituminous mastics, liquid rubber, roofing felt, roofing material, polyethylene film as well as waterproofing membranes.

For waterproofing the garage floor, you can use hardfacing or coating materials.

To make waterproofing out of bituminous mastics or liquid rubber, it is enough just to apply the material in several layers with a roller or brush.

If waterproofing from roofing felt, roofing felt or membranes is laid, then they can simply be spread over the entire area. The main thing is to overlap the canvases with each other and overlap the walls. In addition, these roll materials can be glued to the surface with hot mastic or by fusing.

Polyethylene film is the cheapest and easiest waterproofing material. It is laid on the surface with an overlap and is already pressed from above with a concrete screed.

Reinforcement and installation of guide beacons

To reinforce the concrete floor in the garage, we use a mesh welded from reinforcing rods so that the floor can withstand heavy loads

Having completed the waterproofing, we proceed to reinforcing the floor, this will give it additional strength. For these purposes, we weld a metal mesh with cells of 20x20 or 10x10 cm from reinforcing rods 5 mm thick. We spread it over the entire surface on small props 1.5 - 2 cm high. The mesh should be inside the screed. Fiber can also be used for reinforcement, this building component is added directly to the concrete mix.

To obtain a flat floor surface in the garage, install guide beacons

Now we install. We use as guides metal pipes with a diameter of 25 mm. We also install them on small props and make sure that the upper edge is flush with the zero mark, and the guides themselves are strictly horizontally and at a distance of 1.5 m or less from each other. Lighthouse pipes are lubricated with machine oil. This is done so that after pouring the screed, they can be easily reached. We fix the guides themselves with a thick cement-sand mortar.

After installing the guides, we make a frame from metal corners for the pit. We just cut off two short and two long 5x5 corners to the required length and weld together. So that the frame does not lead during pouring with concrete, we insert wooden spacers.

Filling the screed and creating a topcoat

For the screed, knead a solution of the consistency of thick sour cream and carefully level it over the surface using the rule

Left to do concrete screed... Knead cement-sand mortar until the consistency of thick sour cream. We spread it between the guides. We throw a lot on a small area, after which we take a metal rule and begin to pull together the excess along the guides. We fill the entire surface with concrete. After that, we leave to dry for several days. Since the concrete gradually dries and shrinks, cracks may appear. To prevent this from happening, after 3 - 4 days we scatter sawdust on its surface and moisten them with water. Let the floor dry for another 10 days, after which we remove the sawdust and leave the floor open until it is completely dry. This can take up to 20 days.

After the screed has dried, the floor in the garage is practically ready. Many also make a cover from floor tiles or painted with special paint. There is already someone who likes it more. The main thing is that the surface is resistant to various auto chemicals.

When erecting a car "house", not all vehicle owners take it seriously. structural element like the floor. Completely in vain! Correctly executed floor covering will ensure high-quality preservation of the car and protect it from premature corrosion.

Choice of materials

Among the abundance of materials that can be used to make garage floors, it is quite easy to get confused. There are basic criteria for what any garage flooring should be:
- fire resistance and moisture resistance;
- resistance to oil and acids, gasoline, as well as other chemicals;
- a sufficient period of operation, the required resistance to mechanical damage.

Today it is easy to choose a reliable floor covering, since there are several options for arranging garage flooring.

Types of floors

The concrete floor has remained the leader for many years. Such a coating is strong enough, it is suitable for rather tough use. Moreover, this material belongs to a relatively cheap coating. The disadvantage is the constant presence of dust, as well as the possibility of the appearance of dirt spots on the concrete surface.

Much more expensive as a garage floor reinforced concrete slab... This can be explained by the fact that you put it yourself, without involving working team, as well as special equipment, such a plate is impossible.

Its cheapness attracts some motorists wood flooring however, it is quickly disappointing with its short operational life. Ceramic tiles are perfectly washable and withstand moisture, but they are not able to withstand impacts.

The most modern and reliable now are polymer floors. This is the most promising technology for arranging garage floors. Long-term operation and reliability of such a floor depends only on good preparation of the base, as well as compliance with the technology of the coating device. After evaporation of water, such a floor significantly enhances the existing positive qualities.

Thinking about which coating to choose, one should take into account the influence of each factor of its upcoming operation: the presence chemical substances, possible loads, movement of people and influence. Either option can make a garage functional as well as attractive.

It would be wrong to leave a clay or unpaved floor in the garage, since the subgrade is not particularly strong and, as a result of constant loads and influences, will sag and deform over time. In addition, the soil easily absorbs various toxic substances and gasoline, so it will not be possible to get rid of the unpleasant odor in the box. Another thing is the wooden floor in the garage, this wear-resistant, attractive and durable coating will serve you for many years. Unlike a concrete floor, a wood covering retains heat better in the room, does not generate dust and looks more attractive.

Garage flooring requirements

Before making a wooden floor in the garage with your own hands, you need to study the requirements for such a coating:

1. Wood surface must be resistant to mechanical damage, so it is better to choose solid wood boards.
2. The flooring must withstand well the effects of harsh chemicals. For this, the wooden floor is treated with special impregnations, and also covered with protective compounds.
3. The plank floor must be fireproof. To protect it from fire, the wood must be impregnated with fire retardants.
4. The surface must be moisture resistant. For this purpose, the boards can be coated with oil or varnish, but it is worth remembering that when moving across the floor, your feet should not slip.

Important! When choosing the material and method of flooring, it is important to give preference to inexpensive and reliable structures, take into account the ease of installation and the duration of operation.

How to choose wood for your garage floor?

Before making the floor in the garage from planks, you need to choose the right wood for this room. Laying walnut and mahogany boards under conditions of increased loads, humidity and exposure to aggressive substances is impractical.

Give preference conifers because they have high wear resistance and strength. The best way to do your garage floor is oak. Due to its high strength and hardness, this breed will last for more than one decade.

When choosing wood, consider the following rules:

• to avoid deformation of the floor covering in the garage, use only well-dried wood (overdried or damp boards are not suitable);
• for the device of the frame from the lag, choose only whole bars without cracks and other defects;
• after calculating the amount of wood, always take a 15 percent stock.

How to treat wood before laying?

To protect the wooden floor in the garage on the ground from putrefaction and damage by insects, all wood elements are treated with antiseptics. Products must be primed before laying. The primer is applied in several layers. All products dry well after applying impregnation.

Sometimes antiseptics are applied only with seamy side boards. Sodium fluoride and borate-based mixtures are suitable for these purposes. An odorless white powder is diluted in water. After preparation and application, the composition does not change the color of the material, does not reduce its strength and protects metal structural elements from corrosion.

Advice! To protect against moisture, the bars are coated with water-repellent, deep-penetrating solvent-based impregnations. They create a protective thick film. Oil analogues are allowed to be used for processing only absolutely dry wood.

The floor in the garage made of planks must be protected from fire. For this, the wood is treated with fire retardants. These are special substances that increase the fire resistance of the material. Fire retardants are applied to logs and boards prior to installation. It is better to use formulations based on copper hydroxide.

Step-by-step installation technology

If you are making a wooden floor in the garage with your own hands, then the best option- device wooden structure by lags. This will distribute the load evenly over the entire deck and transfer it to the ground. In addition, if insulation is laid between the lags, then the room can be additionally protected from the cold. Structures on the logs allow you to hide the defects of the base. Various engineering communications are laid in the space under the floor.

Note! Log floors are not suitable for low garages, since such a structure raises the floor level by 6-10 cm. In this case, the wooden floor in the garage is made on a concrete base.

Laying a wooden floor on a concrete base

The concrete base does not need any special preparation, therefore, work on laying the plank floor begins at any time.
At the same time, the following recommendations are adhered to:

• for laying, boards with a moisture content of no more than 10% are used;
• preliminarily arrange a frame of 50x50 millimeter bars, which are installed with a step of 400-500 mm;
• the lighthouse bars are laid first with a step of 2 m;
• for fixing to a concrete base, dowels are used, which are fixed with a step of 500 mm;
• then intermediate bars are laid and also fastened to the base with dowels;
• then proceed to the installation of the flooring;
• the boards are laid out perpendicular to the frame bars and attached to them with nails or self-tapping screws.

If concrete base is sufficiently flat and does not have serious defects, then the flooring from the boards is performed without using a frame made of bars. Thickened floorboards are suitable for installation. Before use, they are impregnated with linseed oil to protect them from moisture and painted. After drying, proceed to the installation of the plank floor. The boards are laid along the entire length of the room and fixed to the concrete base with nails or self-tapping screws.

Laying a wooden floor on the ground

It is somewhat more difficult to install a wooden floor on a subgrade. First, the base is carefully prepared, and then the floor is laid in several stages:

1. The ground surface in the garage is leveled with a hoe or rake.
2. Next, sand and gravel backfill is performed. In this case, first a layer of sand with a height of 15 cm is poured, then an interlayer of expanded clay or gravel of the same height follows. If desired, the thickness of the gravel layer can be reduced to 10 centimeters.
3. Then sand and gravel cushion spill with water and tamp well. The best way to do this is to use an electric rammer (hand roller, vibratory plate or hand rammer).
4. We put waterproofing material over the entire surface and put it on the walls to a height of 10 cm. The joints of the material are glued together with mastic or tape.
5. Let's start installing the lag. For this, bars with a section of 100x100 mm are suitable. First, we install the timber around the perimeter of the room. It will distribute the load from the car and the weight of the entire flooring. At the corners, we fix the lumber with metal corners to each other. Using a level, we check the horizontal position of the bars. If required, we put cut boards or plywood under the elements.
6. With the ends to the entrance to the garage, we also install logs with a section of 100x100 mm. The step between them is no more than half a meter. To fix them to the lighthouse bar along the perimeter of the room, we use metal L-shaped products or self-tapping screws.
7. Pour expanded clay or sand into the resulting voids between the logs to insulate the floor of the room.
8. After that, we start laying the floorboards. They are placed across the log and attached to them with self-tapping screws at two points. To make the floorboards fit snugly to the logs, holes are drilled in them for fasteners. To do this, use a drill, the diameter of which is 1 mm less than the diameter of the self-tapping screw.

Advice! Before laying, strips of roofing material are attached to the edges of each board using a stapler to better isolate the room and reduce cracks.

When installing a wooden floor on the ground, you can use brick or concrete posts... This method is suitable for garages where the dirt floor is well below ground level. Thanks to the arrangement of the posts, they do without a sand and gravel layer and waterproofing. A distance of 800 mm is made between the rows of columns, and the pitch of the columns in one row is 300 mm.

Attention! So that the floor in the garage does not bend under the weight of the car, boards with a thickness of at least 5-6 cm are taken for its device. The floorboards must be covered with linseed oil and painted.

How to cover the wood surface after installation?

After assembling the structure, the question arises, how to cover the wooden floor in the garage? Leave boards without finishing protective coating not worth it, since this way the surface will not be protected from mechanical stress, absorption of fuels and lubricants and moisture.

To protect the floor, use the following compositions:

1. Covering the floor with varnish you get a durable, transparent and moisture resistant coating. For the garage, wear-resistant polyurethane-based varnishes are ideal. Such coatings protect against premature decay of boards, do not crack, withstand temperature and humidity changes, and do not lose their original qualities during operation.
2. Painting the floor with paints increases the aesthetic appeal of the coating and protects it from short-term exposure to moisture. For boxing, organic solvent-based paints are suitable.