Construction, redevelopment of the site, heavily overgrown trees - this is an incomplete list of situations when a gooseberry transplant is required. Or maybe, initially, the place was chosen incorrectly, and only a few years later the owners realized this, found another, more suitable one. Be that as it may, the need to transplant bushes from place to place raises concerns and a number of questions. Can an adult bush be transplanted? When and how is it better to do it? You will find the answers in our article.

Gooseberries can be replanted in spring or fall. Most gardeners prefer to do this in the fall, when the plant has almost completed its annual growing cycle and begins to prepare for winter, that is, for a dormant period. In August and September, the beds are usually prepared for the next season; from this point of view, it is also better to make room for spring plantings in advance.

In the spring, it is more difficult to determine the time for a transplant, or rather, it is difficult to guess it correctly. Gooseberries begin to grow very early and quickly, the very first warm days contribute to the rapid movement of juices, swelling of the buds - the plant rushes rapidly to flowering. The end of May is usually already marked by the presence of small fruits. This means that you need to plant a bush before the start of sap flow, immediately after the ground thaws.

In the fall, you can decide on the time much easier, knowing approximately when the frosts come annually. In late September or early October, after the bush has shed its leaves, when all vital processes slow down, it will more easily tolerate stress and the inevitable root injury caused by transplantation. Moreover, before frost, it will have time to take root in a new place.

A thorny bush will take root well on a non-acidic, light enough and nutrient soil... Loam works best for him. If in the area chosen for it, the soil is too light - you can add clay, if it is too heavy and dense - you can add sand and peat. The site should be dug up, cleaned of all plant residues, old roots, debris. If it is necessary to deoxidize the soil, you need to add lime.

It is advisable to check the acidity of the soil before planting plants for which it is important. This can be done on your own, having previously prepared the "reagents".

To determine the pH of the soil, you need to take a handful of currant or cherry leaves, put it in a half-liter jar, pour boiling water over it, and close it with a tight lid. After the water has cooled down, a lump of earth is placed in it and the color change is monitored. Keeping green indicates normal level acidity, if a red tint appears - too acidic, if blue - not acidic enough.

Transplant methods

When the place is determined and prepared (and on it you need to dig a hole at least 50 cm deep and up to 80 cm in diameter), it's time to move on to digging and preparing the bush. The gooseberries are heavily pruned - you need to remove all the old branches, and the new shoots, of which there will be no more than 7, should be shortened by a third. Then they dig in a circle with a diameter of 30-40 centimeters around it. Usually the roots occupy the area indicated by its crown. A bush well dug to a depth of half a meter is taken out with a shovel, pitchfork, crowbar or other tools, together with an earthen lump, pulling at the same time by the base, and transferred to a film or cloth. On this tape, he is transported to a new place of residence. The roots are not specifically freed from the ground (unless they are sick and rotten), but the visible parts are examined, cut off a little, the wounds are sprinkled wood ash.

A couple of buckets of water are poured into the prepared hole (it should be wider than the roots), the removed soil mixed with compost or rotted manure is poured onto the bottom with a slide, and a bush is placed on top, the roots are straightened, sprinkled with the rest of the earth. It is advisable to deepen the bush 5 centimeters more than it grew before. The earth is tamped, watered with a couple of buckets, it is advisable to make a hole or groove with sides so that the water does not spread past, but falls precisely to the roots. After that, the area around the stems is covered with dry soil and mulched with peat or straw.

Some gardeners add fertilizer when transplanting, but this is quite dangerous for disturbed and cut roots. Most experts are inclined to believe that, in addition to compost, it is possible to add only wood ash, and apply mineral fertilizers in the spring.

If transplants require not one, but several bushes, then they prepare more space... The entire large area allotted for planting gooseberries is dug up, cleaned, and the acidity or air permeability of the soil is corrected, if necessary. And then they prepare holes for each bush separately, it is advisable to leave a distance between them more than a meter- usually 1.3 m or 1.5 m.

With a spring transplant, a hole is dug as soon as the ground thaws. It immediately becomes clear whether the plantings are threatened with stagnant water. If it turns out that there is such an opportunity, you need to dig a hole deeper and make a drainage layer of fine gravel or pebbles, and then pour the earth and plant the plant.

Post-transplant care

Gooseberry is an unpretentious and viable plant. A healthy bush tolerates transplanting well. Moreover, a properly carried out transplant in a convenient and fertile place can rejuvenate it and increase its yield. Transplanting adult plant in the fall, you can wait for the harvest already on next year... The exception is a health-improving plant transplant, which grew in the wrong place, hurt. In this case, the harvest can be in a few years - from 2 to 4, depending on the degree of neglect and pruning of the plant.

After planting in the fall, the plant is watered regularly (moving and returning the mulch after watering to its original place) until the very frost. If necessary, fertilizing is applied in the spring, when the bush has taken root and began to grow. Then urea, potash and phosphorus fertilizers are applied. If there is no urgent need, bypass seasonal feeding by adding a little fermented slurry or bird droppings to the water.

After the spring transplant, they also monitor the moisture content, only you need not to overdo it, pay attention to the amount of precipitation. Further care consists in weeding, feeding, pest control. Since the roots are shallow, it is better to remove the weeds by hand, and renew the mulch layer after watering.

Influences modern fashion make us think about how to change our site and create stylish landscape compositions... Majority design ideas requires free space so that trees and shrubs do not interfere with evaluating the author's idea. For the sake of beauty, you have to make sacrifices and replant plants that are out of place.

It is quite possible to move even a large fruiting bush if you approach this task correctly. Moreover, sometimes transplanting is beneficial to the plant, as it leads to its rejuvenation.

Let's try to transplant a gooseberry bush. To do this, first we will make a strong cut.

Like currants, the gooseberry bush consists of branches of various ages. According to the structure of the bush, gooseberries can be divided into two types. Some varieties have a bush-like shape with strongly curved, arched branches, others have a more compressed shape, in which perennial branches in the center of the bush occupy a vertical and oblique position, and the lateral ones are slightly curved. In the varieties of the first type, the fruits live in the bush for 3-4 years, and bear fruit for 2-3 years, in the second, respectively, 5-6 and 3-4 years. In the second type, the fruits are less thickened and better illuminated than in the varieties of the first type.

When pruning, all branches that are older than the specified age must be mercilessly removed. It is easy to distinguish them from young shoots: the old ones have darker and more rough bark.

Cut out all low-lying branches, as well as thin and diseased ones. We make the cut at the level of the soil, without leaving hemp. If it is difficult, we cut the branches in two steps.

We count how many shoots we have left: if there are more than ten, then we need to reduce them to six or seven. We shorten these young shoots greatly - a length of 40-50 cm is enough. Sometimes it is recommended to cut the branches even lower, but practice shows that even with such a length, the gooseberry takes root well.

Now we begin to dig out the bush. We dig it from all sides as deep as possible. The distance from the center of the bush is at least 40 cm. We take the bush out of the ground and put it on a film or cloth. We dig a hole in a new place. In size, it should be larger than an earthen lump, both in depth and in diameter. It is desirable that there are gaps of at least 10 cm around the circumference. At the bottom of the pit we fill in a fertile mixture consisting of humus and garden soil. Fertilizers should not be added so as not to burn the roots.

We transfer the bush to the planting site on the fabric. We put it in the hole and fill the gaps along its perimeter with the same fertile mixture. Lightly compact the soil and water it abundantly (2-4 buckets of water, depending on the size of the bush). We cover it with dry earth on top. The base of the bush should be 5-7 cm deep. Before the onset of cold weather, we continue to water the bush.

Gooseberries are planted in the fall, since even a slight delay in transplanting in the spring will negatively affect its development. Gooseberries start growing very early, so it is important that the roots get all the moisture from the melting snow.

In the spring, do not forget about the transplanted bush. Even if the soil is damp, water it, as damaged roots still do not get enough water. The first feeding can be given when the leaves grow a little.

The branches left over from cutting gooseberries are very useful for protecting plants from rodents. Place them in trenches when planting tulips and use them to tie around fruit trees.

Spring does not count best time for transplanting gooseberries. In the fall, there is more time for the event, and the weather conditions are more favorable to both planting and transplanting, however, if you do not miss the moment and observe all the details, the bush will not suffer and will yield as usual.

Possible reasons for the transplant

A gooseberry transplant in the spring may be required in the following cases:

• when redeveloping a site;
• when the berry thickens, when the distance between the rows and bushes was initially incorrectly calculated;
• when moving (when you want to take your favorite variety to a new place of residence);
• with a lack of sunlight (neighboring trees have grown, new buildings have appeared on the site);
• if in the fall the planting was not thought out (the site was in the shade, wet, not blown out).

On a note. Bushes up to 5 years of age lend themselves best to transplanting. Therefore, if a transplant is ripe, do not delay until the bush is hopelessly outdated.

Spring transplant dates

In different climatic conditions gooseberry transplant times will vary. There is only one principle: do this procedure as soon as the earth warms up so much that it can be dug. In the southern regions, this is the end of February, beginning of March. In the north - late March, early April. If the buds have begun to bloom, it means that the roots have woken up and are vulnerable to manipulation and it is better to postpone the transplant until the fall.

The transplant must be done before the start of sap flow. Only in this case, the bush will well tolerate moving to a “new place of residence”.

On a note. When the gooseberry bush has already "woken up", you should not touch it, but postpone the transplant until autumn. As a last resort - to perform not a transfer, but a "transshipment" with big lump land.

The principle of selection of planting material

An ideal transplant bush looks like this:

• age from 2 to 5 years;
• the kidneys have not yet begun to grow;
• there are 3 or more powerful roots at least 15 cm each;
• adventitious roots are well developed;
• the aerial part has two or more strong shoots 35-40 cm.

The younger the bush, the easier it will tolerate a transplant. You should not transplant bushes older than 5-6 years, as it will be difficult for them to adapt to a new place.

On a note. There is no point in replanting bushes affected by diseases or pests. They will not become healthier, they will transfer diseases to a new habitat. It is not a fact that weakened plants will survive. Time will be lost and the work of the gardener will be lost.

Step-by-step instructions for transplanting

There are several steps involved in a gooseberry transplant that cannot be ignored. Compliance with all aspects will save time in the future for caring for the transplanted plant.

Seat selection

A sunny area protected from drafts and northerly winds - the best place for transplanting gooseberries. It's normal when Sun rays will fall on the plant for at least 5-6 hours a day.

Usually they choose a place near the fence or outbuildings. Gooseberries respond poorly to waterlogged conditions. If on personal plot high standing groundwater, you need to look for a hill.

The soil should be light and fertile. Excessive acidity is easily removed with lime, chalk, dolomite flour... Clay soil is improved by adding sand or peat. It's good if potatoes grew on the site before, legumes or beets.

On a note. In order to avoid the transfer of diseases, it is not recommended to plant gooseberries in the area where a currant berry was laid or old gooseberry bushes grew.

Cooking holes

The site is freed from weeds, roots, debris. Digging the planting hole in advance, most likely, will not work. In the spring, after the ground is pierced with a shovel's bayonet, every day is dear. Ideally, if the planting holes are dug in the fall.

Required dimensions:

• you should maintain a distance of 1 meter to the fence and 3 meters to the construction;
• the optimal distance between bushes is 1.5 m, between rows - 2 m;
• the size of the hole depends on the bush, while the depth is not less than 50-60 cm, the diameter of the hole should exceed the size of the root system by 1.5 times.

So that the water around the roots does not stagnate in problem areas, drainage from pebbles, rubble, shell rock, and dropout is placed at the bottom of the planting pit.

Fertile upper layer mixed with rotted manure, wood ash. For each hole, you must add at least 10 kg. organics and 2-3 glasses of ash.

On a note. It will not be superfluous to introduce mineral fertilizers (100 grams of superphosphate) between the drainage and fertile layers.

Gooseberry preparation

The bush is dug up, examined. Diseased roots and branches are cut with pruning shears. The tips of the roots are carefully cut off by 3-5 mm with a sharp secateurs.

Next, you need to bring the aboveground part in line with the underground in size. To do this, the shoots are shortened, usually by a third, leaving 7-8 buds. it optimal size in order for the plant to undergo transplantation normally.

If it is far from the transplantation site, the roots are packed in polyethylene for transportation.

On a note. The adaptation is improved by the following procedure, carried out before planting: lower the root part of the gooseberry for a few minutes in a clay mash, to which a bag of Kornevin and 6 grams of Aktara have been added.

How to transplant

The transplant algorithm is as follows:

• a hill of prepared fertile soil is poured into the planting hole (on top of the drainage);
• install the bush, supporting it vertically (you can bend it down, deepening the root collar by 8-10 cm);
• fall asleep with prepared fertile soil, shaking the bush to fill the voids, crushing each layer;
• pour out a bucket of warm water;
• from above they fall asleep with mulch.

On a note. Humate (100 ml per 10 liters of water) can be added to the water for irrigation. This will improve the survival rate of the plant during a prolonged cold spring.

Post-transplant care

Transplanted bushes should be watered abundantly at least once every 2 weeks. It is imperative to mulch the soil in the near-trunk circle with a thick layer of mulch so that the earth does not dry out, the "new settler" is not afraid of temperature extremes.

Weather conditions are of great importance. The transplanted plant is very dangerous spring frosts, since the natural process of preparation for fruiting is disrupted.

In the future, gooseberries require the usual care: loosening the soil, weeding weeds and timely treatment from pests and diseases.

If the spring transplant is done according to the rules, the plant will avoid stress, further growth and development will go on as usual.

Our country is huge, and what is normal for Stavropol or Of the Far East, may not be suitable for the central regions of Russia.

Olga Burtseva from Kharkov in the comments asks if it is possible to transplant an adult gooseberry bush? Unfortunately, this problem is relevant for many gardeners, especially beginners who seek to plant everything on their site at once.

Gooseberry is a forgotten medicine. It helps well in diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, perfectly enhances immunity, improves blood composition, and, most importantly, effectively prevents the development of atherosclerosis. And just a handful of fresh berries a day is enough! Many are convinced that the quantity nutrients black currants are ahead of gooseberries, in fact, the opposite is true.

But they do not have a very good idea of ​​how the plantings will look like in 5-6 years, when the plants enter the adult life cycle. However, the problem can be solved. Technologies are now available to transplant mature trees, not to mention shrubs. True, replanting a tree is not easy; you need a special technique. But the bush is quite capable of transferring to another place for the summer residents themselves. Several years ago my husband and I underwent this procedure, and we are quite happy with the result. However, everything is in order.

A place for a gooseberry bush under the fence

Our gooseberries grew along the chain-link fence on the north side of the site. Behind the fence - a meadow and fields, m this garden was blown through very much. At the family council! it was decided to replace the mesh with a profiled sheet in order to protect the plantings from piercing winds, and at the same time move the fence a little so that later, removing the chain-link, not to spoil the new fence.

We put up the fence, then we removed the grid, but it turned out that the bushes are now growing at some distance from the fence. Moreover, it was not possible to use the liberated territory, and I did not want to breed weeds. The husband suggested that the bushes be moved closer to the fence by layering, and those that are already bearing fruit should be cut down over time. Not best idea: it would take a year to root the layers, form new bush and wait for it to gain strength. It would have taken all five years, but I wanted to get the result earlier. Therefore, I insisted on moving existing and well-established plants to a new place. In total, seven bushes grew along the fence. different varieties... It was scary to endure everything right away (what if they won’t take root?), And it was decided to divide this process into two stages.

No sooner said than done. The bushes were well shed with water a day or two before transplanting in order to preserve as much soil as possible on the roots. Then, just before the transplant, they tied it tighter with twine. (It doesn't matter if several branches break at the same time: you still have to remove part of the crown, because the chopped off roots will not be able to feed all the branches.)

At the new site, planting holes were dug about 1 m in diameter and about 80 cm deep. The bushes were dug along the periphery of the crown to a depth of 80 cm and from both sides they began to lift the bush with shovels, bypassing it in a circular manner and chopping off the roots that went beyond the excavation.

Why did they dig so wide? The fact is that in plants root system is usually

displaying the aboveground part. Consequently, the most active suction roots are located precisely on the periphery of the crown. Chopping them off means leaving the plant to starve to death. Of course, someone would argue that the suction roots are very thin, almost microscopic. Yes, but they are attached to something! And the more roots we leave, the faster the bush will recover. For a shrub, the loss of old anchor roots is not so destructive as the loss of a working root system.

As if nothing had happened

After we carefully lifted the transplanted bush with shovels, we must just as carefully transfer it to the film or burlap, not allowing the earth to shatter. If the transplant is carried out within its own area, the film will be enough. On the film, transfer the bush to the planting pit and carefully place it in a new place, without disturbing the location of the branches relative to the cardinal points.

Having leveled the bush, we sprinkled it with humus (about one and a half buckets per bush), filled up the earth, carefully tamped the surface around the bush with our feet and made a large hole, sprinkling the earth with a roller along the edges of the planting hole. Then they poured water abundantly. They shed it, not watered it - so that the earth settled well. The transplant was carried out at the beginning of October (in our zone it is optimal time for planting gardens), but not in the spring.

I want to draw your attention: the root of the gooseberry is bare, the earth disappears from it instantly, so it is extremely important to shed the transplanted plants well in advance for a day or two.

If you are going to carry the bush over a long distance, it is more convenient to transfer it to burlap. Moreover, the bag should not be synthetic, but natural. It is necessary to cut it, transfer a bush to it and pull the roots tightly with wire or twine. It is necessary to plant such bushes without removing the burlap - it will rot itself in a year or two. And the roots will be intact and will easily pass through the fabric.

In the spring, we cut off the transplanted bushes more than usual, cut out all the stems older than three years. Be sure to water the plants abundantly for the next year approximately every 10-14 days.

In the first year, the bushes were sore, even the leaves did not fully unfold. But the next year they gave us an abundance of berries, as if there was no transplant! They are still in good health, delighting with an excellent harvest.

The return of the gooseberry

In my childhood, my grandmother had 5 gooseberry bushes.

She made amazing "royal" jam! An hour before picking berries, grandmother doused the bushes cold water... The thorns became soft. She fixed the branches with clothespins - and so she reaped the harvest. When I inherited the garden, I uprooted these bushes - they were old and sick. And today I tried the gooseberry and realized - I want to return it to the garden. I especially liked the varieties Neslukhovsky and Kurshu Dzintars.

Senior Researcher of the Department berry crops Tatyana Miroslavovna, RUE "Institute of Fruit Growing", explained to me why not yet in every garden you will find gooseberries:

At the beginning of the last century, gooseberries were struck by a terrible epidemic. sphere libraries... This disease is also called American powdery mildew, since it was brought to us with American varieties. In spring, the leaves and tops of the shoots, and then the berries, begin to become covered with a white bloom, which later thickens, turns brown and becomes like a dense felt. Plants of old varieties of European selection turned out to be unstable to this disease. Fungicide treatments of that time were of little help, so people began to get rid of gooseberry bushes in their gardens.

Breeders are trying to revive the culture by crossing European sweet and large-fruited varieties with American berries, which do not differ in the special taste and size of berries, but are winter-hardy, drought-resistant, slightly thorny, and most importantly, resistant to powdery mildew... However, it has not yet been possible to create a variety that could boast of both high resistance to spheroteca and the same large and sweet berries as the old varieties.

The best time to plant gooseberries is late September - early October. The place should be lit, without air stagnation. And from the very beginning it is important to keep clean trunk circle.

When planting, deepen the root collar by 5-6 cm.

After the seedling, be sure to cut it off, leaving 3 buds from the ground on each shoot. Form a bush with 6-7 strong branches. Cut out all the weak shoots each spring, leaving 3-4 of the strongest ones. By the age of 6-7 years, the bush should have 15-18 branches of different ages. The main harvest is concentrated on last year's gain. Branches with this type of fruiting age quickly. Yes, and on a thickened plant, they rather develop fungal diseases... Therefore, from the age of 5-6 years old, remove the old branches, leaving to replace them with the same number of newly developed basal shoots.

The need to transplant trees or shrubs on the site arises quite often. Moreover, each single plant requires compliance with specific agricultural practices.

The reasons for such actions may be the redevelopment of the site, the movement of the bush to a more suitable place for it, in order to plant the plants with dense planting. The article will consider the question of how gooseberries are transplanted to a new place in spring and autumn.

Gooseberries are transplanted, like other shrubs, in autumn or spring. Moreover, autumn is the preferred season. After fruiting, the bush prepares for winter, it begins a dormant period.

In this state, the gooseberry will better tolerate a change in habitat. The best month for transplanting is October, before the onset of frost. Sometimes circumstances develop in such a way that it was not possible to transplant the plant in the fall. For example, due to early autumn frosts or due to the lack of free time at the gardener.

In this case, you can transplant the bush in the spring. But there are nuances here. Gooseberry refers to the type of shrub that wakes up very early, literally with the onset of the first warm days. Therefore, it is important not to miss the moment.

If the buds have already begun to grow, then the roots of the bush also began to grow. In such conditions, the bush may not take root at all in a new place or it will hurt and stunted. The best spring month for transplanting is March. V northern regions it could be early April.

Selecting and preparing a landing site

In order for the gooseberry bush to take root well and bear fruit regularly, you need to choose the right place for it.

It must meet the following requirements:

1. Good sunshine.
2. There is no constant wind blowing. Plants feel good near any buildings that protect them from drafts.
3. The gooseberry loves moist soil, but does not tolerate the close occurrence of groundwater and stagnant water. The place on the site does not fit the bush, where rainwater poorly absorbed by the soil.
4. Gooseberry bushes grow well on fertile and light soils, react negatively to an acidic environment. If the soil is too acidic, it can be deoxidized with ash or lime. Clay soil is fertilized with sand, humus or peat.
5. Gooseberry precursors should not include raspberries or currants. These plants are susceptible to the same diseases, so the bush will be sore and stunted.

You should first clear the planting site of debris, weeds and other vegetation.

How to determine the acidity of the soil?

The easiest and fastest way to determine the acidity level is using litmus paper. If you don't have it, it will help folk way... It is necessary to pour a handful of cherry leaves in a jar with boiling water and wait for the infusion to cool. After that, a lump of earth is thrown into the jar from the place where the acidity needs to be determined.

Look at the color of the water:

1. Greenish tint - normal acidity.
2. Reddish - increased.
3. Bluish - lowered.

Step-by-step instructions for transplanting

It is better to transplant gooseberry bushes during their dormant period. A significant difference in agricultural practices between autumn and spring planting no. However, when transplanting in the fall, the bush can give a crop the next year. Consider 2 ways to transplant bushes: single and mass.

Transplanting a single bush

Pit preparation

The first step is to prepare a hole in which the bush will be planted. Its depth should be about 50 cm, and its diameter should be twice the expected diameter of the roots. If there is frequent stagnation of water on the site, it will not be superfluous to equip drainage in the pit.

To do this, a mixture of crushed stone, broken brick and sand is poured into the bottom of the pit. A layer of agrofibre is laid on top of this mixture, onto which fertile soil is poured, mixing it with humus or compost. If drainage is not needed, fertile soil is poured directly to the bottom of the pit.

Advice: it is better not to put mineral fertilizers into the pit, as this can lead to burns of the roots. But ash can be brought in without fear.

Preparing and digging a bush

It is necessary to cut the bush in order to bring it into line with the aboveground and underground parts... Old, damaged, broken branches are cut, and all healthy shoots are shortened.

In this form, the bush will take root faster and better. If the bush is young, then its entire one-year growth is cut off to 8 buds. On adult bushes, the annual growth is cut in half.

The order of digging and carrying the bush:

1. Having retreated from the center of the bush 30-40 cm, they dig it around the perimeter. If there are roots in the path of the shovel, they can be chopped off.
2. Using a shovel, the bush, along with a lump of earth, is removed from the pit and transferred to the planting site.
3. If a clod of earth is significant in size, use burlap for carrying, plastic wrap or shield.
4. All damaged roots are removed, the tips of the roots left behind are refreshed.

Planting a bush in a new place

1. A bush with a lump of earth is placed in the prepared hole. It is recommended to deepen the root collar of the bush 5 cm below the edges of the pit.
2. The place remaining in the pit is covered with earth, lightly tamped and watered with two or three buckets of water.
3. After absorbing water, the soil under the bush is sprinkled with dry earth.

Planting several bushes

Transplanting each individual bush does not differ.

With regard to several bushes, the nuances will be as follows:

1. The landing area is immediately marked. If there are several rows, then the distance between them should be within 1.3-1.5 m. The distance between adjacent bushes is 1.5-2 m.
2. First dug out the right amount landing pits.
3. Organic fertilizers are applied to the pits.
4. The bushes intended for transplanting are dug out one by one and transferred to new pits, where they are planted using the above technology.

Transplanted bush care

Having transplanted the bush to a new place, it is necessary to provide it with proper care, since the plant is under severe stress.

Autumn transplant

The trunk circle must be mulched. Mulch prevents moisture evaporation from the soil surface, passes irrigation water well to the roots, does not allow the formation of an earth crust. As mulch are:

• rotted sawdust;
• needles;
• bark of trees;
• peat;
• hay;
• rotted manure;

It is advisable to make a layer of mulch about 10 cm thick.

Advice: experienced gardeners cover the near-trunk circle of the planted bush with pieces of roofing material. This significantly reduces the evaporation of moisture from under the bush, and also contributes to the accumulation of heat.

The bush is regularly watered until the onset of frost, thereby preparing it for winter, but mineral fertilizers are not applied. It is better to feed the bushes in the spring.

Transplant in spring

As in the fall, it is advisable to mulch the bush.

Watering is done regularly to prevent the root system from drying out. If precipitation does not fall, the bush is watered with two buckets of water every 2 weeks. You can combine watering with subcrust. The first feeding is done 2 weeks after the first leaves appear.

To start developing rapidly, the bush needs nitrogen. Suppliers of nitrogen can be rotted manure, infusion chicken droppings, fermented grass or hay. Organic fertilizer diluted up to 10 times with water and watered plants. Mineral fertilizers in the first year after transplantation, it is advisable not to use. If you cannot do without this, then they are diluted with water and used in liquid form.

Weeds are regularly removed from the trunk circle. In summer, in the morning or evening hours, the bushes are watered using the sprinkler method.

Possible mistakes

We list the most serious mistakes that occur when transplanting gooseberry bushes:

1. Transplant without a lump of earth. A bush with bare roots takes root much worse, gets sick more often, and later begins to bear fruit.
2. Lack of fertile soil with some organic matter. The bush needs adequate nutrition, and ordinary soil contains too few essential elements.
3. Watering with too cold water. For example, from a well or a well. The ideal temperature for irrigation water can be considered 18-25 degrees.

If all the work on transplanting the gooseberry to a new place is done correctly and on time, the bush will certainly delight you with its strength of growth and delicious fruits.