The plant was given to me by my sister. It was in a large pot, and I (he was still a workaholic) only watered it, and did not take care of it anymore. But when moving, I realized that it is very difficult to take out a huge dieffenbachia from an apartment, and our loaders will break it during transportation.

But do not leave the same gift! I called my sister, she advised me to cut the most beautiful shoots and root them in the water. Already 2 weeks later I planted them in a pot! From that time on, I became the most sensitive “mother” for a flower, and he repaid me with remarkable growth, and then with the appearance of an amazing “cob” ...

This "tropican" was brought from American humid forests.

Dieffenbachia is a perennial that is grown for its large, succulent leaves. With its help, you can effectively occupy an empty corner. It is used to decorate a university, hospital or office corridor (but it is better not to grow it in a kindergarten or school, I'll tell you why below).

There are about 40 species of this plant in the wild, and in South America they are considered annoying weeds. "Free" they look like this:

Are there many types of such a flower bred in our country

Want to buy Dieffenbachia? You have plenty to choose from! Any of the species listed below have succulent, thick stems and large leaves. The color of the leaves may vary depending on the species.

• Large-leaved. Relatively low (up to a meter) plant with green leaves.

• Leopold. This dieffenbachia is also not too high. Green leaves have a noticeable light (whitish) central vein.

• Lovely. Also known as delightful dieffenbachia. Large view: the leaves grow up to 50 cm, the plant itself - up to 1.5 meters. The leaf blades are decorated with striking white stripes running alongside the veins. This is an option for beginners, as the plant is unpretentious.

• Spotted. Decorative-leaved view with spots of whitish, light green, light green color. Moreover, not all varieties of such a plant necessarily have spots. For example, Camilla can be recognized by light green leaves in the middle and dark green at the edges. In addition to this variety, Tropic Sun and Tropic Snow are considered popular.

• Seguin. The view is similar to the previous one, but the leaves are not so variegated. And the leaves of this dieffenbachia are wider in size. Some growers call them striped and even "tiger".

• Shrub (the most popular is Green Magic). These are already hybrids. The photo above shows the difference between the bush dieffenbachia and the stem, tree-like.

Pruning and reproduction

The higher the “tree” grows, the shorter its stem becomes (although, of course, not always and not in every species). Over time, extended dieffenbachia can become ugly and unstable, so she needs to undergo "plastic surgery".

1. The top is cut off, rooted.
2. The excess stem is removed (it can be cut into "cubes" and each one can also be rooted).
3. Do not throw away the bottom (which is still growing in the pot). Dry, disinfect with activated charcoal, and over time, new shoots will sprout here.

I root the petioles in a glass of water (when I'm in a hurry, I even take it straight from the tap).

You can also:

• Plant them in a pot of moist coarse sand, shallow.
• Before that, treat the cut with a root growth activator (the same "Kornevin").
• Cover the pot with a jar or bag, raise it from time to time to let in fresh air and spray the leaves.
• When the cutting takes root, you can transfer it to "adult" soil.

You can learn more about circumcision dieffenbachia in this video:

How to transplant such a plant correctly

• The best time is spring, but it is also possible in summer.
• Do the transshipment without disturbing the earthen coma enveloping the roots.
• Always fill the drainage in the pot with fresh (expanded clay).
• It is better to take a pot large and heavy. It should be 2-3 cm larger than the old one.
• Take a soil with low acidity. A good example: sand (1 part), shredded sphagnum (2 parts), peat (2 parts), leaf earth (4 parts), some shredded charcoal.

How and when dieffenbachia blooms

For many lovers of this species, the flowering of dieffenbachia is still a mystery. The fact is that with the same care, some people have a plant blooming, while others do not.

According to my comments, the flower blooms if your dieffenbachia has already grown well to the sides and up (that is, it is not young), plus it received proper care (hydration, nutrition, dosed amount of sun).

The flower of the plant looks like this:

After flowering, it can give these inedible berries:

What is this plant: benefit or harm

Dieffenbachia is fanned with myths, probably more than all other house flowers. I'll tell you about each, with comments from my own acquaintance with this plant.

Harm

It is believed that the sap of the plant is poisonous, it is strictly forbidden to get it into the wound, as well as on the mucous membrane (do not rub your eyes when trimming the flower) or into our stomach. And in general, it is better to work with the stem and leaves with gloves.

True, I (still not knowing all this) boldly worked with the plant with bare hands, and never felt any discomfort on the skin. True, my skin is resistant to everything - I'm not allergic.

Prevent pets and birds from biting or pecking on dieffenbachia leaves. And if the plant blooms and delights you with berries, remember that they are also poisonous!

By the way, it is believed that wild dieffenbachia are many times more poisonous than their indoor relatives (in their homeland, they even make poison for rodents from plants).

Benefit

• The plant purifies the air by absorbing formaldehyde and other hazardous compounds that we may not even smell. There are especially many of them after repair ( new laminate, vinyl wallpapers, glue for them, paints).
• It can serve as a home barometer. Before the rain, when the air pressure decreases, the surface of the leaves may become covered with dewdrops. You do not need to wipe them. On my own I will add: not all species "cry", or maybe not in every apartment. My flower (spotted dieffenbachia) was not one of the crying ones.

What other bushy plant can be used to decorate your home? I won't go far - there are many worthy examples in the Aroid family, to which Dieffenbachia belongs. This video will show you the most popular colors:

Dieffenbachia flower is a beautiful tropical plant. Its luxurious multi-colored leaves can decorate the interior of any room. Despite its origin, it does not cause any particular difficulties in growing Dieffenbachia. In this article we will tell you what dieffenbachia looks like, and how it came to us.

Dieffenbachia is an evergreen herbaceous perennial belonging to the Aroid family. The birthplace of Dieffenbachia is the tropical belt South America... There, in the mild climate of variable-humid tropical forests, it grows to an impressive size, which is rarely achieved at home. To Europe tropical guest came presumably at the end of the 18th century. It received its current name in honor of the gardener of the Austrian imperial court, Joseph Dieffenbach, since it was this country that first introduced into the culture an overseas shrub with unusually attractive leaves. Today there are about 40 types of dieffenbachia, and this number is regularly replenished with new hybrid forms, bred specifically for home keeping.

Video "Dieffenbachia"

In this video you will hear useful tips for dieffenbachia care.

Appearance

Nature has endowed Dieffenbachia with a bright appearance and high growth rates. V comfortable conditions the plant grows a new leaf every week, and when it unfolds, the top of the next one can already be seen. At this rate, the home specimen quickly grows to 2 m, especially if it has enough space. Of course, the height and growth rate of Dieffenbachia depends on the species. Only large species grow up to 2 m and above, smaller ones usually do not grow above 1 m.

The external description of the flower also depends on the species. It can be in the form of a tree or shrub, differ from its relatives in the size and color of the leaves. A common feature for all dieffenbachia is only a succulent fleshy stem, which hardens with age in tree-like plants and becomes covered with light scales in the places of leaf detachment. The growth point in most species is located at the top (these are tree-like specimens), but some have such buds at the base of the shoots, so they are able to bush.

Dieffenbachia leaves are dense and large, sometimes reaching a length of 50-60 cm. The surface is smooth (easy to clean), with well-visible veins. The color of the leaves is variegated - the emerald plate can be covered with spots, stripes, strokes or dots of lighter colors: white, yellowish, salad. So that the leaves do not lose their decorative effect, they must be washed and sprayed only with soft, settled water, since chlorine and lime have a very detrimental effect on the condition of the plants.

It is also worth knowing that the content of dieffenbachia at home in some cases is unsafe for its residents. The stems and leaves of the plant contain special substances - alkaloids, which are able to cleanse room air, but at the same time can cause swelling of mucous tissues, such as the throat. In addition, the sap of the flower is highly toxic and can cause allergic reactions on the skin, so gloves should be used when pruning or pruning the plant. For the same reason, dieffenbachia is best kept away from children and pets.

How and when it blooms

Even experienced florists they may not know if indoor dieffenbachia blooms, since the flowering of this plant at home is really a rarity. And yet, in comfortable conditions close to the natural environment, it is sometimes possible to see how dieffenbachia blooms every spring. This phenomenon can often be observed in greenhouses, winter gardens where the microclimate is closer to the tropics. It should be noted right away that only adult plants throw out the buds.

Like the entire Aroid family, Dieffenbachia do not differ in long and beautiful flowering.

In April-May, a flowering bud appears in the leaf axil, which quickly (in 2-3 days) fades, but remains in a wilted state for a long time. The flower itself is a small, pale green or cream-colored ear surrounded by a shell of grayish-yellow pollen. After flowering (as, indeed, during the period when it blooms), the ear does not have a special decorative value, but it takes a lot of energy and nutrients the plant, therefore, flower growers prefer to cut it off immediately. If this is not done, pollination can occur, as a result of which red small berries, also containing a poisonous substance, ripen. Here is such an unusual, beautiful and at the same time unsafe plant from America - Dieffenbachia.

Dieffenbachia amoena Dieffenbachia lovely

Aroid family. The birthplace of Dieffenbachia is South America (Colombia, Peru, Panama, Venezuela, Guyana, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica). There are more than 50 species in nature.

Dieffenbachia is a straight-stemmed tree-like plant with variegated large elongated oval leaves. Plant sap is poisonous. Dieffenbachia in nature can grow up to 3 m, but gradually the lower part of the trunk becomes bare and the plant loses its decorative appeal. At home, dieffenbachia grows on average about 1.5-1.8 m, rarely blooms. In fact, the taxonomy of Dieffenbachia is too confusing, and it will be difficult even for a professional, due to the variability of species, to obtain interspecific hybrids and various varieties. It should also be noted that many types of dieffenbachia require quite frequent renewal - on average, after three years, if grown in an apartment. Since after this time they usually grow to the ceiling. Then the top of the plant is cut off and rooted, and what is left is either thrown away or left for reproduction.

Dieffenbachia is widespread in the southern states of the United States, widespread in the tropical Pacific Islands (Cook Islands, Micronesia, Hawaii, Fiji, Tahiti, Palau, Samoa, etc.), and in some regions the plant behaves invasively like a weed.

Dieffenbachia types

• Dieffenbachia seguine- a plant with a thick fleshy juicy stem and wide lobed leaves. On average, the leaf length in an adult specimen is 40-50 cm and is about 15 cm wide, somewhat narrowed at the end. The leaf plates have a pronounced venation, about 9-15 lateral veins. In the original species, the leaves are pure green or with a small variegated pattern. On the basis of it, many hybrids and varieties have been bred, which differ in the size and shape of the leaf - more elongated lanceolate or wide, as well as a pattern on the leaves (large or small stripes, spots, marbling). Synonyms: Dieffenbachia spotted (painted) Dieffenbachia maculata, Dieffenbachia painted by Dieffenbachia picta.
• Dieffenbachia x bausei- with oval yellowish-green leaves about 30-35 cm long. The drawing of the leaf is marble, with white dots. The name has no official status; some naturalists believe it is a form of the Dieffenbachia Seguin.
• Dieffenbachia oerstedii- with oval-pointed or elongated-cordate leaves about 30-35 cm long. The leaf is pure green, the central vein stands out, contrasting in color - light green. Sometimes light specks come across. This species is native to Costa Rica and Guatemala.

Dieffenbachia oerstedii

Dieffenbachia seguine

Dieffenbachia cultivar "Exotica" Exotic

Dieffenbachia cultivar "Rudolph Roers" Rudolf Roers

Dieffenbachia variety "Camille" Camilla

Dieffenbachia cultivar "Vesuvius" Vesuvius (very similar to Aglaonema)

Dieffenbachia grade "Star Bright" Light Star

Dieffenbachia variety "Triumph" Triumph

Dieffenbachia care

You might be surprised, but sometimes Dieffenbachia grow well at home without any care other than watering. There are cases when strong Dieffenbachia trees with good leaves, without spots or chlorosis, grow for many years without transplanting or feeding. For such unpretentiousness, Dieffenbachia are loved to be used in landscaping hotel foyers, recreations of kindergartens and hospitals. But not all varieties of dieffenbachia seguin (painted) differ in unpretentiousness in care - some are quite capricious, require very good illumination and high-quality water for irrigation.

Temperature

Dieffenbachia is thermophilic, the optimum temperature is 22-24 ° C. In winter, it is slightly lower - about 18 ° C, minimum 16 ° C. Plants rot and die at temperatures below 10 ° C. Does not tolerate drafts. But they grow well on fresh air- on the balcony or in the garden, if you place the pots in a light partial shade and protected from the wind. Of all the species, Dieffenbachia maculata is the most unpretentious to temperature fluctuations.

Personal experience

Dieffenbachia, growing to the ceiling, grows in a bucket, excellent color and freshness of leaves, no damage or problems. The secret of success is periodic wiping of the leaves with a damp sponge and regular spraying, annual feeding of rotted cow dung or fertilizing a giant.

In general, it was noticed that Dieffenbachia respond well to feeding the weak organic fertilizers containing nitrogen. From this, the leaves of the plant become large, and acquire a darker color, which does not harm the plant at all.

Who to add to dieffenbachia

Dieffenbachia are fairly large plants and are often grown in very large pots or tubs. In this case, there is a desire to plant some plants in order to cover the surface of the earth in the pot.

Pellionia, pilea, tradescantia, small-leaved peperomia, graceful collision, ficus pumila, ivy, sour cherry are suitable as such plants.

They are not suitable as neighbors for Fittonia diffinbachia, no matter how beautiful they look, they will be too dry. It is possible to plant chlorophytum, but if only Dieffenbachia has a very spacious pot, chlorophytum has a rather powerful root system.

If you add other plants to dieffenbachia as ground-covering plants, keep in mind that they may not have enough light, because dieffenbachia often stands on the floor and not even near the window. It is best if you make the backlight at the level of the pot. Good lighting also contributes to the fact that the dieffenbachia trunk is more slowly exposed at the bottom.

Dieffenbachia is poisonous

To the question of whether Dieffenbachia is poisonous, there is an unequivocal answer: Dieffenbachia is not just poisonous, it has microcrystals sharp as needles in its juice. Therefore, if the juice gets on the skin, do not wipe it off, because then you rub it into the skin.

You need to put your hand under a powerful stream of water and wash off the poison. But indoor dieffenbachia is a little poisonous, irritation from the juice is not for everyone (mainly in people prone to eczema, dermatoses and allergy sufferers).

In Brazil, the Dieffenbachia Seguin grows, as it is called there "the silent rod" and once its stems were used to punish escaped slaves.

Anyutka & Forget-me-not tells: after the burn with dieffenbachia juice, which I did not wash off, but simply wiped it off, my hand ached for 10 days, no ointments helped (I went to the doctor). Only a strong soda solution relieves itching a little. The feeling is as if a hundred small needles are running along the palm and itching.

Dieffenbachia is a wonderful flower that visibly decorates the interior of a room and improves air quality. But you should be careful with him, as his milky juice is poisonous and in case of contact with the skin or mucous membrane, everything should be urgently rinsed with running water. Let's take a closer look at this plant, homeland and varieties.

Dieffenbachia belongs to the evergreens of the aroid family (5).

Homeland of Dieffenbachia

There are many on earth different types of this tropical plant and practically they all consider the countries of South and North America as their homeland... There are 30 species in the wild, from which the current varieties were bred.

Distribution by country

After America was discovered, the plant, along with merchant ships, spread across the lands of Oceania and the islands of the Caribbean. Therefore, first of all, pirates and traders are "to blame" for the spread of Dieffenbachia, with their help the plant moved to:

• Tahiti;
• Hawaii;
• Cook Islands.

Since the plant is practically not capricious, then in the new lands of South America, it quickly gained popularity and thanks to its rapid reproduction in a suitable climate, it has become practically an ornamental weed, growing literally underfoot in wildlife.

And much later it was brought to Europe.

Where is it growing at this time

Thanks to its strong, sturdy stems and varied large foliage, the plant first spread through the greenhouses of the Old World. There in the 19th century, the first hybrids were bred with more variegated foliage... Later, the cuttings also came to ordinary amateur flower growers. Today it is the most popular houseplant sold in Garden Centers around the world. Thanks to Dieffenbachia, you can make a small tropical paradise at home by choosing varieties with different options sheet plates.

Flower types

This popular flower has many types, according to various sources, they have an average of 35 species. All species differ in the size of the leaf mass, different patterns on the leaves. When purchasing these plants, it is also necessary to take into account the fact that Dieffenbachia are stem and tall, and there are low and bush. Those plants that have a trunk at their disposal eventually lose their lower leaf plates, and begin to resemble palms. Therefore their may also be called "False Palms"... Therefore, different types will look great in one wide container. If you place large stem species in the background, and miniature bush Dieffenbachia in the first.

Large-leaved

It has a large resilient stem that grows up to one meter in height. Sheet plates dark green large without veins, 60 cm long and 40 cm wide... This is practically the only variety that does not have spots on the leaf blades. But on the other hand, it fits well in the middle and background of compositions, shading the variegated foliage of its Dieffenbachy neighbors. Against the green background, only the central stripe stands out; it is lighter and, as it were, protrudes above the general level of the leaf.

When growing this variety, one must take into account that the flower has a pungent, unpleasant odor.

Leopold

This Dieffenbachia has a short stem of only 5 cm and 2 cm in diameter. The petioles on the stem are short and light. The leaf plates are large, dark green in color in the middle of which a white vein reaches 15 cm across the entire length of the leaf of 35 cm, the petiole is short and covered with purple spots, which add decorativeness to this variety of Dieffenbachia. The variety blooms with a white cob 9 cm long... The ear is surrounded by a white blanket up to 17 cm in length.

It must be remembered that this is a dwarf variety.

Seguina

The species is similar to Dieffenbachia spotted. The main difference is in the size of the leaf mass, it is larger and the spots on it are less than 12 transverse stripes... Most often, a plant of this type is on sale with a rounded leaf blade and a striped cutting. The spots are scattered across the leaf without any order and there is no noticeable central stripe.

With the help of this Dieffenbachia, quite a lot of hybrids were bred.

Adorable or pleasant

This variety of Dieffenbachia tolerates a shady place in the room quite well. V winter time tolerates dry air and high room temperatures arising from central heating... With all the inconveniences for a plant, its leaf plates grow up to 50 cm in length. In height, this plant grows up to 180 cm. The leaf plates are dark green in color, and lettuce veins pass from the central vein at a distance of a centimeter from each other.

Variegated or painted

Very fast growing very common variety among lovers of this flower. The variety that in a short period of time grows to a height of up to 2 m... Beautiful bright green mottled leaves reach 40 cm in length, the width of the leaf plate is 15 cm, the shades of the leaf are juicy green spots are much lighter than the color of the main leaf. When looking at the leaves, they appear velvety and warm to the touch.

Find a place in a room with diffused light without straight lines sun rays.

Spotted

Such a plant has large stems that grow up to a meter in height. The leaf plate grows up to 45 cm in length, while the width is 13 cm... The shape of the leaf plate is oval and white spots are randomly scattered over the leaf. The peduncle grows rather short and has a large white veil reaching 18 cm in length. This species has served a lot in the field of crossing and breeding new Dieffenbachia varieties.

The growth of the plant in height stops as soon as it reaches the meter mark. It is a medium-sized plant in a Dieffenbachy arrangement.

Oersted

Bush form of Dieffenbachia. The variety branches well and therefore there are quite a few trunks in the pot with leaf plates up to 35 cm in length... They are dark green in color with a central white vein. The shape of the leaf mass is sometimes similar to an elongated heart.

This variety does not need to be transplanted annually, but every two years, while increasing the pot by 5 cm.

Gorgeous

This plant also has a second name, Royal Dieffenbachia. Light green leaf plates, on which white spots of different sizes are scattered. The entire leaf is covered with white veins, and there are even specks on the petiole.

The variety prefers diffused light and regular watering. He does not tolerate low temperatures and direct sun, in which his leaf plates smolder (bake).

Baumann

This variety has an extraordinary structure. Light green leaf plates in a placer different sizes stains... The spots range from cream to yellow. Leaves grow up to 75 cm.

All Dieffenbachia and given view, including, has a poisonous juice that causes swelling and burning.

Dieffenbachia are exceptional tropical plants with which you can decorate your apartment, turning it into a jungle. They are all quite different, but easy to care for and practically not affected by pests... There is such a belief that Dieffenbachia is a flower "muzhegon", but this belief has no scientific basis, only delusions.

Dieffenbachia came into fashion in our country in the mid-90s. These plants amazed the imagination of domestic florists inexperienced in luxury with their bright appearance. Naturally, powerful stems and huge variegated leaves will not leave indifferent any lover of tropical wonders.

The laconic form and amazing coloration of Dieffenbachia won their hearts then. It was considered a matter of honor for every self-respecting amateur to have dieffenbachia. indoor plants... And only later it became clear that these plants also have some disadvantages. First of all, it is their excessive growth. Stretching out, dieffenbachia lose their attractiveness, because the lower leaves fall off and the trunk is exposed.

Some growers, on the contrary, love this kind of overgrown plant, reminiscent of a palm tree. But not everyone likes it. The only way out is radical pruning of the plant, so now it is not uncommon to see discarded pruned plants in the trash heap.

In nature, growing to a certain height, the dieffenbachia stalk bends towards the ground, and upon reaching the ground, it gives additional roots and begins to grow upwards again. So, writhing like a serpentine, the plant is constantly increasing in size. We cannot allow him to behave like this at home, so dieffenbachia has to be ruthlessly cut off, which many growers do not like. This is probably why the fashion for dieffenbachia gradually began to weaken. But even from this situation, a way was found. Now, with the help of modern breeding, all new varieties of plants are being developed that have the ability to bush and do not grow as fast as their progenitors. For example, the Compacta variety is classified as small-leaved and small. Excellent and White Flame varieties are interesting. However, the most popular variety is the Reflector, which bushes very abundantly, and does not exceed a meter in height. Plus, he's amazingly handsome. Therefore, it is obvious that Dieffenbachia will soon return triumphantly in the collection of floriculture enthusiasts.

Origin

V foreign literature the name of Dieffenbachia sounds somewhat mysterious: a dumb reed. In fact, there are many sinister stories and legends associated with this plant. The stories about the poisonousness of the plant are especially frightening. It is believed that after chewing a leaf of diffebachia, a person has severe swelling, redness in the mouth, many develop an allergic reaction and paralysis of the facial muscles occurs. The person cannot speak after this for several hours or even 2-3 weeks. This property of dieffenbachia was used to punish slaves on the plantation, for which the plant got its strange name.

Nevertheless, the popularity of the plant throughout the world refutes any exaggeration regarding its danger and toxicity.

Homeland of Dieffenbachia - rainforests South America. According to some reports, it grows in the lower tier and is accustomed to conditions of high shading, but the love of light of Dieffenbachia somewhat refutes such statements.

Dieffenbachia was discovered by the director of the Vienna Botanical Herd, Josef Dieffenbach. As a plant for greenhouses, it began to spread back in the 19th century and is considered a plant of the Victorian era, but dieffenbachia reached our country relatively late and became popular relatively recently.

My Dieffenbachia Story
I first acquired this amazing plant during the greatest boom, when dieffenbachia was in vogue and everyone who could start it.
It is still growing with me, only it has become 4 times more. Well, I can't prune the plant and throw away the cutting. Therefore, I stubbornly root all the cuttings, and every year I get a new plant.
At this rate, Dieffenbachia can soon occupy the entire apartment and all the windows. Of course, you can plant several cuttings in one pot, but even this does not solve the problem, and it is very difficult to get rid of the Dieffenbachia invasion. This is the main problem that awaits the breeder of this plant. It has a nasty habit of increasing its size so quickly that soon the trunk begins to bend and take on an ugly shape.
The existence of dieffenbachia for me is especially complicated by an insufficient amount of light. Many people say that this plant is quite shade-tolerant. Maybe it is so, but in the shade the Dieffenbachia stretches ugly, bends, the leaves become smaller, and the trunk is thinner. I met plants of the same variety as mine, but they grew in several trunks, the trunks were quite thick, even, and, in general, the plants gave the impression of very healthy and well-groomed. Unfortunately, I could not get such a result. Otherwise, no particular problems with dieffenbachia have ever arisen.
Sometimes its amazing vitality is simply amazing. My dieffenbachia survived the invasion of the scabbard and survived. For example, almost never a single cutting of this plant died. If you put it in water, you can be sure that the roots will appear sooner or later, and the plant can be planted.
Dieffenbachia survives in hostile conditions, in dry air and in low light. Of course, she probably does not like such an existence, but she is unlikely to die from a simple draft.
However, not all Dieffenbachia varieties are equally resistant. For example, I recently brought in a representative of a very popular new cultivar Reflector.

After reading about his remarkable ability to bush and extraordinary beauty, I decided to give it a try. True, among the reviews about this variety on the forums there are many complaints about its greater whimsy and less endurance.
Slow growth is also mentioned among the shortcomings (although it seems to me, on the contrary, it is a virtue). The copy I bought didn’t look very healthy at first. But what can you do? Sometimes you don't have to choose because you have no choice at all. Apparently, my dieffenbachia was in the store for a long time and special attention was not surrounded by sellers.
Nevertheless, a week later she dismissed a new leaf (albeit a little dry at the base), and after another 2 weeks - the next one. So so far, the stories about the low growth rate of this variety have not been confirmed.
Many people complain that new leaves are completely green, without the characteristic specks. My pet released seemingly normal leaves, on the contrary, quite mottled. And the most pleasant surprise is a small process formed at the base of the trunk. Obviously, the plant does tend to bush. Well, let's wait for further results.

Bloom

At home, dieffenbachia blooms very rarely, usually in April-May for just a few days. The flower in Dieffenbachia looks the same as in all aroids - an ear with a greenish veil and develops for about 2 weeks. In most cases, the dieffenbachia flower is recommended to be removed, because it does not shine with special beauty, and flowering weakens the plant. The smell of the dieffenbachia flower is also not very pleasant, plastic with a sweetish aftertaste. Most likely, the flowering plant will have to be taken out of the living room.
However, some especially fanatical dieffenbachy lovers, on the contrary, dream of seeing their plant blooming. To do this, you need to torment him a little, tk. Dieffenbachia will bloom after the stress suffered before the upcoming frost or drought. Hard-hearted but inquisitive plant lovers should keep their plant good lighting(on the northeast window), but stop fertilizing and watering until the leaves sag. After that, the plant must be “revived” by immersing it in a vessel with water until it comes to its senses and the first buds appear. After such an execution, the plant must certainly bloom. I don't know how interesting such experiments are, especially since dieffenbachia is still valued for its beautiful leaves, and not for flowers. Nevertheless, she also knows how to bloom.

Lighting

Dieffenbachia is a shade-tolerant plant. But the most beautiful, healthy specimens with a powerful trunk can only be grown with sufficient light. In winter, it should be bright, and in summer, bright, but not directed. From direct sunlight, the leaves of dieffenbachia become discolored, and even burns may even appear on them. But the lack of sunlight will not allow the plant to develop normally.

The best location that can be recommended for dieffenbachia is the depth of the bright room, as well as the location near the east or west window, protected by a curtain. In general, there is a rule that the warmer the room, the more light should be.

Dieffenbachia can also be grown under artificial lighting with fluorescent lamps. True, use them all year round It is not recommended, but it is very useful to organize supplementary lighting in winter for 3-4 hours. If, nevertheless, there is no way to provide natural lighting to the plant in summer, then lamp lighting should be used for 12 hours a day. The lamp should be placed no lower than 50 cm above the plant, because otherwise, overheating burns may occur. But you should not place the lamp too high, because then its effect will be reduced to zero.

Depending on the light, the same Dieffenbachia variety can look different: from a slender small sprout with small leaves to a magnificent giant with a powerful trunk.

Signs insufficient light are:
• - slow growth;
• - elongated stem, large internodes;
• - variegated leaves turn green;
• - the lower leaves turn yellow, dry up and fall off;
• - young leaves are much smaller in comparison with old ones.

In case of excessive light, your plant will show the following symptoms:
• - the leaves turn yellow, and then discolor at first along the edges, and then completely;
• - leaves wrinkle and fall off;
• - leaves drooping;
• - sunburn appears on the leaves - gray or brown spots.

When watering dieffenbachia, it is important to maintain a sense of proportion and achieve a certain balance. The plant loves a lot of moisture and cannot stand dryness (it may begin to shed leaves). At the same time, between waterings, the soil should still dry out slightly, because excess moisture is also harmful. In general, it is advisable to keep the soil slightly moist, but not damp or wet. In this sense, peat soil and any other substrate in which moisture stagnates will be harmful to dieffenbachia. There must be a drainage hole in the pot. You can determine if you want to water by placing your finger in the soil. If it is still wet at a depth of 1 cm, then it is too early to water the plant.

Watering is better with soft, settled water. room temperature... It is best to water the plant at the same time from the top and from the pallet in order to get all the soil layers well wet. However, the water should not remain in the pan for more than half an hour.

In winter, watering should be greatly reduced. However, if the plant is kept in a very hot environment, it should be watered frequently. Plants in earthen pots have to be watered more often than those contained in plastic containers. Larger and older specimens require more abundant and less watering, while smaller or younger ones water more often, but less. More often, it is also necessary to water plants in which the root systems have completely filled the entire pot and entwined almost the entire earthly ball.

Fertilizer

During the period of active growth from April to September, dieffenbachia requires regular fertilization (about once every 2 weeks). If dieffenbachia lacks nutrients, its trunk will be exposed even faster. Naturally, only healthy, actively growing plants should be fertilized. It is advisable to use soluble fertilizers. In winter, feeding should be stopped. In the fall, you can feed it no more than once a month. Like any other plant, dieffenbachia should only be fed if the soil is moist. If Dieffenbachia has just been transplanted into special soil (which contains minerals), then you don't need to fertilize it for about six months. Some care should be taken when feeding varieties with very light and white leaves. For them, it is necessary to reduce the dose of fertilizer, because with an excess of nitrogen, their beautiful leaves may turn green.

It is necessary to periodically wipe the leaves with a damp sponge. Dust that settles on the surface of the leaves interferes with the penetration of sunlight, which is why it is so important to wash it on time.

Humidity

Dry air is harmful to plants that have very large leaves and evaporate a lot of moisture from their surface. Dieffenbachia loves high humidity, which is achieved by spraying or by keeping the plant in a pallet with wet expanded clay. You can also put vessels with water next to the plants, you can use a wet rag on the battery. Insufficient moisture can cause the tips of the leaves to dry out. The moisture level for dieffenbachia should not drop below 55%. However, if the temperature in the room is below 18 ° C, it is still better to stop spraying. The most unfortunate consequences of low humidity can be leaf fall, their brown or yellow tips, and pest infestations.

Temperature

Dieffenbachia is a thermophilic plant. Optimum temperature for her it will be 20-26 ° C in summer. In winter, the best temperature is 18-19 ° С. It is very important that the temperature is constant. Drafts should also be avoided. The lowest temperature that dieffenbachia can withstand is 10 ° C. Some particularly capricious varieties of this plant are very sensitive to temperature and cannot withstand even slight drops or changes.

Substrate

The soil for dieffenbachia needs to be loose and breathable, but still firm enough to support a powerful plant. Better to use ready-made special mixture... In the literature, you can find a wide variety of substrate compositions suitable for dieffenbachia. For example, it is recommended to use leafy soil, humus and sand (in a ratio of 3: 1: 1) or sod, leafy soil, peat and sand (3: 1: 1: 1). It is important to consider the variety and size of the plant here. For example, for very large specimens, a second denser composition will be more appropriate.

Transfer

It is advisable to replant young plants annually, and older ones every 3-4 years. It is enough for them to replace the topsoil. Determining whether your plant needs a transplant is very simple, just take out the plant with a clod of earth from the pot and see how much the roots have entwined the earth. If they have formed a dense grid and there is simply no free land left, it is time to transplant. Otherwise, it can be postponed until a later time. You can only transplant plants that are strong enough that can easily endure this rather traumatic procedure.

Plants should be placed in a larger pot, but its size should fully correspond to the size of the root system, because in the case of a very large pot, moisture stagnation can occur in the undeveloped soil, which is very harmful for dieffenbachia. It is also necessary to have a hole in the pot and drainage 3-5 cm high from expanded clay or pebbles.

When transplanting, you need to remove the plant from the pot, shake off the old soil, remove damaged or rotten roots. Healthy roots have light tips, while rotten roots are brown in color and have a distinct rotten smell.

After the plant has been placed in a new pot, the voids should be filled with earth. The stem can be slightly deepened to form additional roots on top. (True, there are recommendations never to deepen the root collar, since the plant may begin to rot. However, I buried it in Dieffenbachia more than once, so far without sad consequences). After that, the plant must be shed abundantly so that the water comes out of the drainage plant. It is not necessary to place the transplanted plant immediately into the light. It should not be watered very vigorously for a week. Also, it is not fertilized for at least a month.

If the plant grows in size very quickly, it can be transshipped throughout the year, moving it to a larger pot each time. This is much better than planting dieffenbachia immediately in a huge pot for growing.

Sometimes the need for transshipment is evidenced by the active growth of the top of the plant and the simultaneous yellowing and falling of the lower leaves.

Difficulties

Dieffenbachia harms the most insidious scabbards and false scutes, which are quite difficult to get rid of. Inexperienced growers for a long time do not pay attention to small brown plaques on the stem and leaves, it is there that these nasty insects hide. Another sure sign of their presence is the sugary sticky liquid on the leaves. The scabbard should be disposed of mechanically at first, cleaning it off with a cloth soaked in soap solution... And then, unfortunately, you can't do without insecticides. You can use a solution of actara (0.1 g per liter), fitoverm. Processing will have to be carried out several times.

Another formidable pest - the red spider mite - develops in dry air. The most the best way regular spraying of plants serves to prevent its development. The presence of this pest can be judged first by the off-white, almost imperceptible powder on the bottom of the leaves, resembling dust, then by yellow, then turning brown specks on the leaves. As it develops, it will be possible to see small cobwebs on the underside of the leaf, along which uninvited guests run - small reddish spiders less than a millimeter in size. Not everyone will notice them. At the first stage, it is enough to wipe the leaves with a soapy cloth and spray the plant regularly. In the future, it is necessary to use special drugs - acaricides.

Another of the pests - thrips - small dark brown insects with wings, which, on the contrary, reproduce best in conditions of humidity and heat. Their presence can be judged by the silvery streaks remaining where they crawl, and by the brown-brown spots. To combat, insecticides are used (for example, fitoverm, agrovertin - 5 ml per 0.5 l of water). 5 days before spraying, you can shed the soil with a 0.1% solution of confidor. Spraying must be repeated after a week.

Dieffenbachia also affects aphids - small green insects that form characteristic clusters on stems, at growth points and on young leaves. Against aphids, wash the plant with soapy water, then spray with phytoverm or treat with tobacco infusion (40 g of tobacco dust per 1 liter of water, leave for 24 hours, then strain and add another liter of water).

Other problems that can arise with dieffenbachia.

The brown edges of the leaves arise either from constant insufficient watering and drying out of the soil, or from cold air.

Dry brown tips indicate dry air, hard water, or lack of nutrients. Dried areas can be cut off with scissors, but, in general, it is better not to remove dry leaves and leaf areas entirely, because this can speed up the drying of the following leaves. It is better to leave at least a small petiole.

If the leaves of the plant wilt, the base of the stem is rotting, possibly the rot has spread to the roots. The reason most often is strong watering when low temperatures An urgent need to check the roots, cut off rotten, sprinkle the wounds with crushed coal. Transplant the plant into new soil, which is poured over with a solution of carbendazim. The plant should be placed in the light, but not on direct rays, and try not to water it for a while, and then water it very weakly. Sometimes a strongly rotted plant cannot be saved.

Weeping spots on the leaves can occur for various reasons, for example, as a result of late blight or anthracnose (brown spots, surrounded by a yellow halo, there may still be black spots inside). Such leaves should be removed, the plant should not be sprayed and the leaves should be kept dry. Brown paper spots may indicate fusarium. Finally reddish brown spots may be signs mealybug... A cotton-like plaque is also an additional symptom. To combat mealybugs, temperature and humidity should be reduced along with the use of insecticides.

Small yellow spots that gradually grow and turn reddish brown may indicate bacterial spotting, which, unfortunately, cannot be controlled.

The leaves turn brown at the edges and look burnt when the plant is fed too much. An excess of salts in the soil can lead to a change in the color of the leaves and their deformation. To get rid of excess nutrients in the soil, you need to spill it with water several times.

Growing in a purely peat substrate does not have the best effect on Dieffenbachia. Constant waterlogging can lead to damage to root systems and their death. An infection spreading from the roots can cause stains on the leaves.

When buying, you should first of all pay attention to appearance dieffenbachia. For example, if the tips of the leaves are dry and brown, it means that the plant was kept in too dry air and weakened.

It is imperative to inspect the underside of the leaves for pests. The presence of cotton wool is especially likely. This is a sign of a mealybug. There may be brown plaques on the stem - this is a scale insect.

Dropped leaves should be especially alert in wet soil. Obviously, in this case, the decay of the plant root system has already begun due to excessive watering.

Naturally, it is best to purchase the plant in spring, although until the end of summer and even in September, the purchase of dieffenbachia is also quite possible. At first, the plant should be placed away from direct sunlight and no drafts should be allowed. Watering it during this period should be more than moderate, but it is better to spray it more often. The plant adaptation period lasts 2-3 weeks. During this time, it should get used to the conditions of your apartment and begin to give new leaves.

Reproduction

The widespread occurrence of dieffenbachia is largely due to its very high reproductive capacity. It can be propagated both by an apical cuttings and by a small piece of stem (with 1-2 leaves), and by air layers.

As a rule, by placing the apical stalk in water, it is quite easy to get roots in a short time. However, individual varieties are more difficult to form root systems... Some growers complain that their cuttings rot quickly and do not germinate. In this case, it can be recommended to dry the stalk a little immediately after pruning, after one to two hours place it in an opaque vessel with water, to which add 1-2 crushed tablets of activated carbon. Do not expose the container to bright light. The water should be changed every 2 days. If the lower part of the cutting begins to rot soon, it should be cut to healthy tissue and put into water again. In this case, a few drops of phytosporin must be added to the water. After 2-3 days, the water must be replaced with fresh water, to which phytosporin must also be added, only 2 times less.

Cuttings can be rooted in soil, in peat with sand, and in sphagnum. For this, the cut must be sprinkled with crushed coal and placed directly into the substrate. Just do not cover the plant with a bag on top, it is better to spray it 2 times a day. If the leaves are very large, it is best to tie them all together on top to reduce evaporation of moisture from their surface. It is better to sterilize the soil before use (for example, in the microwave for 3 minutes) and keep it only in a slightly damp state.

Rooting usually lasts 3-4 weeks.

It is important to note one more nuance here. When we planted a young plant in the soil, it sometimes happens that its very small roots cannot immediately provide moisture to very large leaves. Then they begin to fall off, and the trunk is accordingly exposed. In this case better leaves cover with a bag or tie on top.

Pieces of the stem can also be rooted either simply in water or in soil. They must be laid horizontally in the soil after drying for a day, submerging somewhere in half or one third. The air should be warm and humid. But with this method, rooting is very slow.

Toxicity

There are legends about the toxicity of Dieffenbachia. Its irritant effect on the skin is associated with small needle crystals of calcium oxalate. Some believe that the leaves of the plant also contain enzymes that break down protein and further exacerbate the effects of oxalate. However, calcium oxalate is not such a terrible substance; gardeners rarely notice any injuries that they received while communicating with the plant. Perhaps this is due to the fact that cultivars of diffebachia are less poisonous. Of course, after working with the plant, it is better to wash your hands thoroughly (such caution will not hurt when working with all aroids), but personally I did not notice any particular irritations from its leaves, only a slight tingling of the skin. Some growers say that they did not feel anything even when the plant sap got into their eyes (although it is better not to try it!). My dog, although no one allowed her to do this, a couple of times (to my horror) chewed dieffenbachia leaves, but absolutely nothing happened to her. True, it must be said that the dog was extremely omnivorous and ate almost everything that came its way without any consequences, however, dieffenbachia also did not harm him. However, it should be noted that very many books and websites describe the most terrible stories about this plant. For example, they say that one person who ate a dieffenbachia leaf had holes in his stomach, his juice was so eager. The unfortunate man could not eat solid food for several months. It's hard to believe, but ingesting dieffenbachia leaves is definitely not recommended.

The only peculiarity that I noticed behind the plant is the faint smell that can be felt if you cut it. But this smell cannot be called unpleasant or very strong, so it is hardly worth considering it a disadvantage of dieffenbachia.

If on vacation

Dieffenbachia should not be left unattended for a long time. If you are leaving for a few days, you can put the plant in a tray with wet expanded clay, place it around a container with water to increase humidity, and move the plant itself away from the window. But this way it will be able to exist in conditions of not very high heat for a week - one and a half. If you are going to be away longer, ask someone to look after dieffenbachia.