Weekend

• Material included: 3 m wooden board (optional width 200,250,300) and 7 m running boards + consumables. Small product sizes:from the shield - up to Sh0.5 x H0.6 x D0.3;from the board - the dimensions of an ordinary chair.
• Possibility of skipping: no
• Format: intensive Sat, Sun + Sat, Sun = 2 weekends = 54 ac. h + 46 ac.h. on a free schedule on weekdays
• Training period: 4 days (54 academic hours) according to the schedule. Upon expiration of the term, the course is automatically considered completed.
• Training time: Sat and Sun from 9.30 to 19.30

Weekdays

• Material included: same as weekend
• Possibility of passes: yes, as agreed with the teacher
• Format: free personal schedule on weekdays = 100 academic hours.
• Training period: up to 1.5 months on the main part (54 academic hours) from the day of the first lesson. After this period, the course is automatically considered completed.
• Training time: on weekdays according to a free schedule from 12.00 to 20-30

Learn more about weekday and weekend charts

* At the end of this period, the course is automatically considered completed!

** Classes on Bonus hours can be started strictly by appointment through the manager.

Materials and consumables ( glue, sandpaper, screws, dowels, paint, etc.) the price does not include bonus watches for the product and are purchased by the student separately (from us or in any store)!

Attention! The course participant must:

• unconditionally observe safety precautions (the course includes detailed instructions on safety and the signature of the relevant documents)
• follow the instructions of the teachers
• take good care of the instrument (broke - bring a new one!)

pick up your products (materials, belongings, etc.) on the day of completion of the course

(in extreme cases, the participant can pick up the manufactured products no later than 7-14 days after the completion of the course in agreement with the Master, indicating the full name, phone number and date of the course). Further, the products are sent to the scrap, or the participant pays a subscription for)

Book your seats in advance! Often there are no places for 1-2 weeks before the start of the basic carpentry course.

Today we will talk about how to work with wood. Of course, we will not be able to cover in one article the entire arsenal of techniques and methods for processing wooden parts, so we will only touch on those tips that will be useful to you in a carpentry workshop.

(FIG. 1). In the most critical wooden structures, parts glued with ends or at an angle are also strengthened with screws for strength. Many novice craftsmen in these cases, without further ado, simply poke holes in the details and drive long screws into them. The screw head remains outside.
But a self-respecting master is unlikely to use this technique - the head spoils the appearance of the product. And the effect of this compound is small. Usually experienced carpenters use this technique.
To the part prepared for gluing with clamps, they glue a piece of board with a side cut off at an angle of 75 °. The drilling limiter is set to the required level (if they are not working with a drill, but on a machine) and a shallow blind hole is drilled with a drill selected according to the size of the screw head - as a result, a neat "pocket" is obtained. Then they change the drill to a thinner one (according to the diameter of the screw) and drill through hole.

The glued parts are connected with screws, and the holes in the parts are covered with putty.

(FIG. 2). Sawing off the long side of the board at an angle requires a steady hand and a sharp eye. But a little trick, sometimes used by cabinetmakers, will help everyone to master this operation.

On the upper surface of the processed board, next to the cut line, a 50x100 mm bar is reinforced with clamps - a hacksaw will rest on it. When sawing, hold the hacksaw at an angle and make sure that the teeth follow exactly the markings. The required bevel is obtained automatically (see fig. 2).

(FIG. 3). Experienced craftsmen drill it in two steps: first from one side to the middle, then from the other to the end. The holes are clean and even.

(FIG. 4). So that the bar, the end of which is sawn off at an angle, does not slide along the stop, resourceful craftsmen glue sandpaper to the supporting surface.

(FIG. 5). If you have to make rectangular frames, do not be lazy and make a simple device for this work.

In the middle of a plywood sheet with guides on a circular saw, make a cut (depending on the width of the workpieces being processed) and, stepping back from it by 5 - 6 mm, nail in two planks glued at right angles, fix the stop so that each plank is exactly at an angle of 45 ° to the cutting line. Cover the supporting surfaces with sandpaper so that the parts do not slip, and get to work.

(FIG. 6). A mark placed on the table 10 - 15 cm from the saw will help you to accurately position and then cut the workpiece.

Two options for making cuttings(FIG. 7 and 20). These tips are good if you have to make several of the same parts with bevel cuts or bevels, as carpenters call them.
The first device is also convenient in that it allows you to automatically determine the desired cut. For example, you need to get a cut of 25x300 mm. Install the legs of the fixture so that the distance between them is 25 mm near the mark. Now press the part against the fixture, as shown in the figure, and cut it: get a bevel with sides of 25 and 300 mm.

The second device (Fig. 20) greatly simplifies the matter when you need to make parts with the same slopes on all sides, for example, table legs.
The picture shows how the legs are cut in this fixture. The part is installed on the first step and cut off one side, while the opposite side is processed on the second step.

How to trim and align thin material(FIG. 8 and 9). Even experienced craftsmen sometimes find it difficult to evenly cut a large sheet of thin material without special tools. Therefore, many of them, in order not to tempt fate, use an emphasis bar in such cases. They attach the material with clamps to the stop and, resting against the edge of the table, cut the sheet.

But, if you need to align differently sized trims of thin material, carpenters use a different device - a board with a guide and an emphasis. They immediately put three or four blanks on the board, align them on one side and cut the other, leading the device along the groove in the table with a circular saw.

You can also fit the part on the drum(FIG. 10). Parts for a spherical surface are usually fitted with a semicircular file. And if you try to do it on a sander? We are sure - it will be faster and better.

(FIG. 11). The surfaces to be bonded are known to bond better when pressed tightly. But how do you squeeze two planks glued at right angles? Can be clipped with spikes. Or it can be done in a simpler way. You can see it in the picture.

To prevent the prisms from sliding off the slats, cover them with sandpaper or, fixing with clamps on the parts, drop a drop of glue on them.

(FIG. 12). Wide manholes in the same details can be made with a chisel and a hammer. But if you have a circular saw, use it for such work.

From a cut of plywood or a board, make a simple stop with "steps". Cut the "steps" in the board so that the width of each of them is equal to the width of the saw. The distance between the first and last "rungs" is the width of the groove. Placing the workpiece in turn on each of the "steps" and making cuts, you will get an even rectangular groove.

(FIG. 13). The edges of the wooden circle are usually reinforced with metal rims for strength. The rim is placed on top of the working surface of the circle, and so that it does not protrude, it is recessed, that is, a shallow groove is knocked out in the tree along the perimeter of the circle, equal in width to the rim.

For this operation, rather complex special devices are often used. But it turns out that you can make exactly the same ledge along the edge of the disc much easier, for example, directly on the circular saw (see Fig.). To make the work go faster, we advise you to process the circle on the stop.

(FIG. 14). Drilling wood discs will be much easier if you use a V-notch plank for the stop. Moreover, you need to place it on the table so that the drill is exactly on the bisector of the notch corner.

In order not to spoil the veneer(FIG. 15). When adjusting large tablets, finished with plywood, the first thing the master thinks about is: firstly, how not to spoil the surface of the part (not to chip off the plywood) and, secondly, how to make a cut evenly. Both problems will disappear immediately if you adopt the method shown in the figure. As you can see, everything is simple: a piece of board is attached to the tablet from below with clamps - the plywood remains intact, and the cut is easier to make even.

(FIG. 16). If you glue the tablet from separate boards and do not take into account some of the peculiarities of the wood, then the work can be irreparably ruined.
The first commandment: when gluing the blanks, place the boards so that the direction of the grain of the tree alternates. Second: place the clamps on both sides, alternating through one.

(FIG. 17). Sawing a wide board with a sharp saw is easy. But a sharp saw will not help you if you are new to carpentry. Therefore, at first, until your hand gets stronger, use a stand - a block when sawing.

(FIG. 18). Craftsmen know how difficult and tedious work it is. But it can be simplified if you use the same circular saw. Minimum of accessories: an emphasis with clamps and a small measuring frame, and you are the owner of a simple and convenient equipment for making the grooves you need.

The figure shows that the kerf depends on the angle at which the workpiece is positioned in relation to the saw. A special measuring frame is used to determine this angle.

(FIG. 19). Non-thick identical parts, for example, from plywood, can be sawed off one at a time, marking each part separately, or you can also together: in a package according to a template. Experience shows that the second method is much more convenient, especially when you need to make parts with great precision.

So that the template does not slide off the workpieces, thin nails are driven into it from below, flip flops are bite off with pliers and the rods are sharply sharpened.

Workshop device
As a rule, a carpenter's home workshop is organized in rooms of a small area, therefore, it is necessary to install equipment in it rationally, using the space to the maximum.
Let's consider one of the ways of placing machines, tools and furniture up to the ceiling of a carpentry workshop. Here most often come from the frequency of use of tools and materials.
For example, painting equipment is installed on top, and boxes with nails, screws and other small things are placed on the lower shelves. When setting up your workshop, do not forget to make room for the various slats and bars. But most importantly, it is necessary to correctly position the tools that are most often used. It is advisable to make a small compartment for them and fix them there, they should also hang so that they can be easily removed.
The workshop can look like a large cabinet, it is desirable that it be locked with a padlock. The dimensions are determined by the capabilities of the room and the conditions of the workpiece being manufactured.
Joinery connections every carpenter should know
The boards are connected in different ways, as a result of which various objects are obtained of the correct shape. You can connect with screws and self-tapping screws, but holes appear from them, and they must be camouflaged. Therefore, if the product will not be painted in the future, or if the material is glued, then it is better to make joints that do not cause damage to the surfaces.
For this, connections on dowels are suitable, when holes are made for the dowel in two connected parts. The distance between the holes is calculated in advance. A dowel is installed in the bearing part or in the joint and fixed with glue. Then, the prepared parts are treated with glue and pressed together. If the dowel enters with difficulty, it is carefully knocked out with a hammer, and in order not to damage the surface, a board is placed.
Need to know! If the dowels are initially made to a certain length, then the holes must be drilled clearly to this depth, down to a millimeter.
Another variant of the connection on open tenons is to enter the tenons of one part into the eyes of the other. This connection is made at the back corners of the drawers, in the shelves, where the spikes do not get in the way. The spikes in the front are invisible, since they enter the end of the board so that a layer of wood covers them from above. The spikes are made so that the connection is in the form of a strong wedge. This type of grip is easier to make than dovetail cleats, where the profile looks like a trapezoid.
To gouge the dovetail with a chisel, the boards are fastened with a clamp to the table. In order for the edges to be of better quality, the bar is hollowed out to half, and then turned over and finished off from the back side. Naturally, for a clear connection, places are carefully marked in advance.

Recommendations for the novice carpenter: natural "chemistry" for carpentry work
There are recipes that have been tested by carpentry masters since ancient times. These recipes have not lost their meaning today, they are still used in the creation of various quality things from wood. All of the recommendations below are aimed at ensuring that you can effectively carpentry yourself, relying on the experience of carpenters proven over the centuries.

Tip 1. Paraffin wax for the carpenter
Nowadays, wooden rings for curtain rods are in vogue. In order for the rings to move along the bar without difficulty, it is rubbed with paraffin. The same tool is used if the drawers do not slide in well or open poorly. Naturally, paraffin wax can be used in certain areas, and in some places, in case of poor sliding, you need to gently walk or sandpaper.

Tip 2. A solution of vinegar. Vegetable oil.
The surface of the furniture should be wiped with a vinegar solution more often, this gives freshness, and if you rub the wooden parts with a solution of vegetable oil and vinegar in equal proportions, small scratches will disappear.
If you treat any point, for example, an ax, with paraffin, then it is easier to work with such tools (the point enters wood softer). But working with a saw will become noticeably easier if you rub its canvas with lard or vegetable oil.

Templates, mandrel, stop, guide fence, jig - these and other terms refer to a fixture used to hold or guide a workpiece or to hold or guide a tool when it is frequently used in repetitive operations. Woodworking becomes art when you start making your own templates.

By acquiring basic carpentry skills in measuring, marking, sawing, chiseling and chiseling, planing and so on and learning how to perform joinery the first time, you will quickly notice that a significant portion of carpentry work is either based on repetitive operations (for example, making identical parts), or is associated with "one-off" problems that are difficult to solve with standard methods and tools.

Behind the art of pattern making is the ability to improvise, and for many seasoned woodworkers, this often means moving away from the beaten track of conventional doctrines and towards a “parallel” mindset of all available options.

Templates can be as simple devices as very complex devices. They are usually the product of the individual's mental work and represent a very simple solutions specific problems.

This may include the use of nails and pins, adhesive tape and hot melt glue (as an additional working hand), scraps of plywood, chipboard and fiberboard, as well as fast-curing materials such as automotive putty. Certain hand and power tools require templates to complete certain tasks or to speed them up.

Basics of joinery

The profession of a carpenter, it should be noted, appeared long ago, long before our birth. It developed without hindrance in a favorable climate, among the settlements spread out in forest areas. And together with the separately taken representatives of the profession, carpentry as a whole was formed.

By the way, we competently declare to you: all art has a habit of starting somewhere. Usually with little things. For example, peel a fallen log from the bark so that it is more comfortable to sit on it. We assume that this is exactly how the carpentry business arose - with the refinement of an ordinary log in front of a fire burning in a clearing. We still, without suspecting it, do the same on picnics and out-of-town walks, in order to have our fill and comfortably sit and eat barbecue.

Over time, apparently, they began to equip the general situation in the dwelling. Stylish clubs, tables there all sorts of ancient time fashion, some kind of lockers and so on.

Although, nowadays, some archaeologists believe that for some reason they have become a truly constructive work of the carpentry skill of our distant ancestors from those immemorial times. Most likely, this object itself had some very symbolic meaning. The staircase was not used trivially - to move from one room to another, to move from level to level. It was a unique and divine (it's not for nothing that stairs are so loved to be used in temple compositions) the way up, to heaven, to the gods! And the more steps, the closer, therefore, the owner of the premises was located to the throne of the Creator.
However, there is another, simplified version of the explanation of the special love of the ancients for the stairs. Probably, after the appearance of benches, people needed to climb up on them - maybe the ancient masters did not always correctly calculate the height of a seated human body, or there are giant snowmen - children came to visit them. However, the fact remains - in ancient excavations, along with elementary furnishings, these very first works of carpentry are often found.

It was only later, apparently, that the benches began to turn into tables, from which, of course, the very name of the profession - carpenter - originated in Russian.

Then, of course, there were stools designed for one person instead of multi-seater benches, full-sized beds with carved legs and a headboard, storage chests acquired by back-breaking labor, where merchants could sit and recline while eating, while guarding their treasures. And only a select few citizens, so to speak, marked by God's finger, enjoyed the benefits of individualism, sitting on a chair-throne.

By the way, the ancient Romans of higher births enjoyed the privilege of sitting - a special slave carried a special comfortable bench behind them, on which a citizen sat down as soon as he felt the slightest fatigue. Such privileges were granted to persons of royal and royal blood. So, behind the Russian tsar, the courtyard wore a red chair, which was used as a traveling throne: a dignitary person has no moral right not to stand out from the crowd!

The geographical location of Rus predetermined the people's love for wood. The Rusichi originally built settlements in wooded areas, and even in the lowlands of the rivers, forest vegetation was certainly present. Probably, that's why it happened that almost all home stuff among the villagers it was made of wood: furniture, bowls, spoons, tues, boxes and even shoes - bast shoes - were woven from linden bast. There was plenty of material around, and they made from it willingly and with love.

In ancient times, men were ashamed of not being able to make wooden crafts for household use... This was both materially beneficial and happened faster than going to buy the necessary thing in a neighboring settlement. Therefore, almost all adult male (and growing up, in the guise of boys, too) the population of the Russians strove to master carpentry skills as best as possible. For the art of woodworking was considered honorable.

And it turned out in such a way that, on the whole, it does not even matter how much a person mastered the profession: very bad, mediocre or masterly good, which not many succeeded in. The main thing is participation. And then, everyone who started working on wood, tried to do what he had conceived in the best possible way, in order to look the most advantageous in the eyes of neighbors and friends, so that they would say about him: a craftsman! And the more a person had to create wooden products, the more elegant, from time to time they became.

We will try on the pages of our site to help you master carpentry skills in the shortest period of time. You can easily restore and even create furniture with your own hands, armed with the tools and materials that are needed in the work of a real carpenter. However, we categorically warn you: in order to start any business, you must have determination and desire. And then a positive result is guaranteed!

Of course, it is rather difficult to achieve top-class professionalism in a short time. For example, having studied our website, you will hardly be able to gracefully carve a life-size portrait of a loved one from wood the first time, as some especially skillful carpenters can do. (They can even make something else! A gifted carpenter can easily cut out not only household items, but even a tie or some details of women's underwear: they themselves have seen wooden women's panties, neatly hung on a wooden nail. could not be put on).

However, regular classes in a carpentry workshop will allow you to acquire the necessary skill, which will come with experience. And then, we are sure, you will be able to amaze the imagination of friends and loved ones with works of carpentry art, created by your own hands!

Good luck with your carpentry skills!

Carpenter's carpentry tool

Now it's time to get yourself a tool. Estimate your material capabilities, examine the existing tool through the eyes of a novice carpenter. In every house there is a hammer, screwdriver, awl, scissors. See if they are working properly. The hammer, of course, does not hold well on a too short handle, it dangles on it, and the blows often fall not on the head of the nail, but on the fingers.

There are several ways to attach the handle with wooden and metal wedges, wire, tin (Fig. 1).

An oval hole in a hammer is usually made conical, it widens towards the outside and tapers towards the handle. The birch handle is either turned or cut into a cone. The difference in the cross section of the handle is 10-15 mm with a length of 300 mm. The hammer is pushed onto the thinner end so that it fits snugly into the oval hole. In this case, gaps are formed between the metal and the wood. The easiest way is to fix the hammer with wedges made of solid beech or birch wood: one wedge is driven into the end of the handle along the longitudinal axis, two narrow ones - along the transverse one.

More reliable fastening provides a metal wedge of steel 3-4 mm thick with three nibs, the ends of which are sharpened as shown in the figure. When driving such a wedge, the feathers diverge in different directions and firmly wedge the handle. Previously, in its end, they make notches with a depth of 3-4 mm with a chisel or a screwdriver, then the wedge will not go to the side.

Hammer mounting methods: 1 - wooden wedge; 2 - metal wedge; 3 - fastening with wooden wedges; 4- fastening with a metal wedge
Similarly, the ax is strengthened on a wooden ax.

There is also a screwdriver in the house. One screwdriver is not enough to work; at least two or three are required. But take a look first at the slot in the screw head, it is not rectangular, but trapezoidal. The tip of the screwdriver should be of this shape, its planes and edges must be sharpened with a file so that they tightly fill the entire slot of the screw. In this case, the side edges of the screwdriver should be slightly beveled to ensure the greatest effort when screwing in the screws (you have to screw it less often).

A straight, not a boot, awl, sharpened in the form of a polyhedron, will come in handy. It is not difficult to make from a piece of thick steel wire. Before sharpening, one end of the wire can be loosened by heating and slow cooling. Steel should be hardened in this way: warm up the end of the awl on gas burner until the metal lightens, then quickly dip in liquid. Since for steel different brands different cooling compounds are used, then at home you may have to repeat the hardening process by dipping the red-hot tip of the awl alternately into clean water, acidified with vinegar, sunflower oil, drying oil, in a soap solution. The degree of heating should also be varied. The quality of hardening is easy to check with a file or a hacksaw blade for metal. If the metal is difficult to tool, then the steel is hardened.

Scissors, pencils and crayons, a ruler can also be found in any home.

Now about the tool that you need to buy in the store or make yourself.

A set of tools for carpentry and related work can be divided into two groups in the order of completing: a) the most necessary for the primary work of a novice carpenter; b) necessary for more complex cabinetry and special work. Half of what will be listed can be done by yourself, but not right away, as this requires some skills of precise sawing, correct planing, the ability to connect wooden parts in different ways, use a drill or a brace.

So, at first, the following tool is needed.

Saws. A hacksaw with a short but wide blade for cross and rip sawing is preferable. In such a blade, relatively small teeth 4-6 mm high have the shape of an isosceles or equilateral triangle. Rip saw blades have teeth inclined forward, they cut wood fibers when moving forward, away from themselves, and only throw out sawdust on the reverse. A traditional bow carpentry saw is too bulky, inconvenient for working in a confined space. Bow saw with a narrow blade (width no more than 10 mm) and fine teeth up to 4 mm high can be useful for curved sawing. But if it is necessary to make such cuts on plywood or planks up to 10 mm thick, an ordinary jigsaw can completely replace a circular bow saw. It will also serve instead of a fine-toothed saw for fine work, as well as a hacksaw for metal. To do this, you need to have files for wood and metal.

Plane. There are many types of this tool under the general name "planes": a scherhebel with an oval blade of a piece of iron for rough planing of lumber; single planer for rough planing; a plane with a double piece of iron, or "twin", as cabinetmakers affectionately call it, for fine planing, removing even and thin shavings; a jointer for leveling large surfaces (it differs from a double plane only in the length and massiveness of a wooden block); folds, fillets, grooves, grooves and other plows for profile planing. One double planer is enough for a novice carpenter, since most often you will have to deal with blanks that have already been roughly cut.

Chisels. They differ in the width of the gland and the shape of the cutting part. They are used for cutting wood, cutting decorative plywood, making stud joints. Chisels with a semicircular cutter are used for cutting grooves, as well as for. For the first time, two chisels with straight blades 4-6 and 15-20 mm wide are quite enough.

Layout tool. These are, first of all, a carpenter's square, a ruler, a thickness gauge for drawing straight parallel lines on the workpiece, a pair of compasses, a shank for marking workpieces at an angle of 45 ° and a bead for marking at other angles. At first, they can be replaced by a student's square, ruler and compasses. Subsequently, all these tools are easy to make yourself.

Vise. Any medium-sized locksmith's vise is suitable, but a special vise is more convenient. They are on sale, called carpentry. Such a vice is universal, it is convenient to fix workpieces in them for longitudinal and transverse sawing, planing, drilling, chiselling and other types of work both with wood and with other material (metal, hardboard, plastic, etc.).

Oilcloth. For the preparation of the now widespread casein glue, special utensils are not required. But for the preparation of traditional carpentry glue, meat or bone, you need a glue-steam bath. It will require two tin cans (! Larger and smaller. There are no ready-made glueboards on sale.

Squeezes. This is the name of the device for tightening and pressing of parts connected on thorns, glue - clamps, clamps, presses. Commercially available metal clamps are not suitable for all applications. Wooden ones with a metal bolt can be made by yourself. At first, as a clamp, you can use, for example, the screw of a meat grinder, locksmith or. There are more simple ways pulling parts together with a piece of rubber, twine and wooden wedges.

Bar and touchstone. You cannot work with a blunt instrument. For sharpening planers and chisels, a bar made of carborundum or emery is suitable. But for dressing you need a touchstone - a bar with very small, dusty grains. The most convenient is a hand-operated mechanical sharpener with a round stone. There are household electric grinders on sale, which can simultaneously serve as a drilling and grinding machine.

Files. A triangular personal file is required for sharpening and dressing saws. Before sharpening, the saw teeth are set apart using a special device called a set. It can be replaced by a wide screwdriver, pliers, pliers. In the future, you will need to acquire a set of files: a velvet file for deburring, flat, square, round, as well as a rasp - a file with a large notch - for processing curved wooden parts, grinding ends.

Drilling tool. Purely carpentry is a brace with a set of so-called feather and other drills for drilling round holes in wood and making oval holes. However, it is advisable to purchase a small to medium sized drill. It is useful not only for woodworking, but also for metal, plastic and other hard materials.

At first, you can do without a drill and a brace. In a piece of wood, a hole of any shape can be made using an awl, chisel, screwdriver, round file.

Assembly tool. Large and small screwdrivers, straight awl, wire cutters, pliers, pliers. The last three tools can be replaced with one - pliers.

Cycle. Steel plate, fixed in a wooden block, it is used for smoothing, cleaning wooden surfaces.

Hammers. It is advisable to have two: one weighing up to 300 g and the second very light, the so-called watch hammer.

Glass cutter. The simplest and inexpensive roller glass cutter is quite suitable, it can cut glass of any thickness. Glaziers-installers of display (mirror) glasses up to 10 mm thick prefer steel glass cutter to expensive diamond one.

In the future, it will be necessary to purchase metal for putty surfaces before painting, in the meantime it can be replaced with a thin one table-knife... An electric soldering iron, a core rod for marking metal before drilling will be useful (you can mark holes in a tree for drilling with an awl or a nail). For work in rural areas, a small hatchet, for example, a tourist hatchet, is very useful. I myself have to make a device for cross-cutting workpieces at an angle of 45 ° - a miter box, as well as a donut - for processing the ends of bars and boards. From plows for this purpose, a semi-planer will be more convenient. Two chisels will not be enough; semicircular, oval ones will be required. Very narrow chisels up to 4mm wide may be required, which are not available commercially, but can be made from steel bar of the appropriate diameter.

For the most accurate work, a butt saw is useful - this is a hacksaw, the top of the blade of which is edged for rigidity with a steel profile butt of a U-shaped section.

An electrified tool (circular saw, planer, drill) can be considered superfluous in a tiny home workshop; their use will cause concern to neighbors. You can do without large chisels, they will be completely replaced by chisels. You do not need a mallet - a large wooden hammer, it is recommended in the carpentry manuals for the reasons that wooden handles chisels and chisels quickly collapse from blows with a metal hammer. However, experience shows that a birch chisel handle serves for several years, and a new one can be made in just half an hour.

A wooden carpenter's meter is convenient for working with large workpieces, and for most carpentry work, it is enough to have a metal or wooden ruler 500 mm long.

In modern furniture, curly, profiled wooden parts are rarely used; they are replaced with molded plastic ones. Consequently, the corresponding plows - kaleivka, selection, etc. - are not at all necessary.

Carpentry tools are sold in shops unprecedented. To sharpen the saw correctly with a file, and a planer piece of iron or a chisel on a bar and a touchstone is not at all simple. An incorrectly set and sharpened hacksaw when cutting will necessarily go to the right or left from the risks of the intended cut, even the cross-cut of a small bar will not be perpendicular to the longitudinal axis. With an improperly sharpened chisel, it is difficult to make even cuts of wood. It is absolutely impossible to cut out decorative plywood, cut ordinary plywood, process the ends of a tree with a blunt tool.

Before sharpening the saw, it is necessary to separate the teeth of the blade so that during the sawing process it does not get stuck in the cut, which must necessarily be wider than the thickness of the blade. For blades with large teeth (two-handed saws used to cut firewood), for working with raw wood, the divorce is twice the thickness of the blade, for other saws it is approximately one and a half thick.

To spread the saw means to deflect the tops of the teeth to the sides of the plane of the blade: even teeth in one direction, odd teeth in the other. For this, a wiring is used - a steel plate with shallow, slightly more than the height of the teeth, slots, the width of which is by several tenths of a millimeter greater than the thickness of the blade. A simple technique of setting with pliers: clamping the teeth about two-thirds of the height from the base, with a smooth movement of the tool, they are bent one by one in different directions. Thus, half of the teeth will be bent to the right side, half to the left.

The correct setting can be checked by looking along the blade: not a single tooth should protrude from the general row. If protruding tooth tips are visible, they should be aligned. To do this, the saw blade is pulled between two metal plates, slightly clamped in a vice. The saw is bred every two to three years, that is, after four to six sharpenings.

After setting, the saw must be sharpened with a triangular file. The tooth of a blade for mixed sawing has two cutting edges - front and rear, forming a sharp top, which in shape is a triangular cutter. Sharpening of saws for cross-cutting is done obliquely, at an angle of 45-60 °, in relation to the side surface of the blade (Fig. 2). The teeth of such a saw work when moving in both directions. To get an even row of teeth, press the file only when moving away from you; when moving in the opposite direction, it must be lifted.

Saw teeth: 1 - top; 2 - base; 3 - cutting edges The number of movements and the pressure for each tooth should be the same, usually two or three movements are sufficient.

Burrs formed during work with a file with a large notch are removed with a velvet triangular file. Sharpening must be repeated periodically using fine-cut files. From repeated sharpening, the shape and height of the teeth change, then the blade is leveled by grinding the tops of the protruding teeth with a file fixed in a wooden block. This is followed by routing and sharpening again.

Sawing. Whoever has not seen a man with a saw in his right hand, a carpenter or a joiner is all the same. Which, it seems, is simpler: he pressed the block to the stop, threw a hacksaw over it, washed it down with two or three short light movements, and then, sweepingly, in a few seconds, halved the block. Try to do this, and then look at the end of the cut bar, check if all of its planes make a right angle with the end. Most likely, it turns out that the saw blade led to the side, there are no four right angles, and at the place where the saw was cut (the beginning of sawing) and on the opposite edge, the wood fibers are damaged, there were no smooth surfaces.

You have theoretically learned the rules of sawing well, the blade is sharpened, the teeth make up two ideal lines. Now the task: to cut a plank 500 mm long and 12-15 mm thick lengthwise into two equal strips. The cutting line is drawn on both sides with a sharpened pencil or thickness gauge, the board is firmly clamped in an upright position in a vice. Sawed? Turn both halves over and check the width of each with a ruler on the back side of you. How accurate was the cut? If the maximum difference in the width of the planks is 1.5-2 mm, then consider yourself already able to use a saw, although for precise woodworking work, the maximum deviation from the marks should not exceed when sawing along 0.5 mm, and across - only 0.2- 0.3 mm.

It's all about the skills of working with a saw, as well as any other cutting tool acquired only by practice. Therefore, before sawing the only available workpiece into pieces according to the dimensions specified in the drawing, be sure to practice on an unnecessary piece of wood, check yourself and the tool.

However, experienced carpenters can provide some general advice. It is not recommended to cut without first marking with a square and a planer. Before cross-cutting, cabinetmakers mark not with a sharp pencil, not with an awl, as carpenters and white woodworkers do, but with a sharp chisel blade. In this case, a smooth, shallow triangular slot is formed. On the surface of the wood, the chisel, cutting the fibers across, leaves the risk half a millimeter wide. This risk is transferred with the help of a square and a pencil to the other three sides of the board or block. Now the task is to ensure that after cutting, half of the risks (the base of the inverted triangle) are not touched by the saw teeth. This will ensure the high accuracy of cutting, which is necessary in the manufacture of dowels and lugs for a clean connection of individual parts of the product without gaps and cracks.

The saw teeth form burrs at the cut on the back of the workpiece, sometimes wood chips. This is inevitable when working with any saw, even a jigsaw. Marking with a chisel prevents the formation of burrs and chips, at least on one (front) side of the workpiece. At the end of the cut, hold the sagging end of the workpiece with your left hand to prevent chipping of the wood.

It is very important to start sawing correctly: with short strokes towards yourself, you should make a shallow cut on the edge of the workpiece - a groove 6-8 mm deep, - holding the blade thumb left hand above the teeth so that the saw slides over the nail or the second joint of the finger. It is completely unnecessary to press with the teeth on the wood, just one hacksaw weight is enough. Otherwise, the blade may jump out of the cut and injure your hand. best case the teeth will tear the wood fibers. The inclination of the blade to the horizontal plane should be approximately 20 °, which also prevents chipping.

Miter box
Do not forget about the heterogeneous structure of wood, when approaching the knot, the blade will tend to bypass a harder place, in this case the cutting speed will slow down, which is quite natural even for wood processing on machine tools.

When ripping, a wooden wedge can be inserted into the kerf to reduce friction. If the saw vibrates and squeaks, which happens when working with hard or very resinous wood, rub the blade with soap or paraffin.

The use of the so-called miter box makes it easier to cut at an angle - a tray of three boards (Fig. 3), which you have to make yourself, they do not exist on sale. The side boards should be strictly parallel, cuts are made in them at an angle of 45 °, the ends are sawn off at a right angle. The workpiece to be processed is inserted into the chute, pressed against the back wall with the left hand, the saw blade is inserted into the slot. In this case, sawing can be done without marking the workpiece along the entire perimeter, there are enough risks on one upper edge. You just need to make sure that the mark coincides with the slot in the miter box.
Occasionally there is a need to cut at an angle of 30 °, 60 °; for this, corresponding slots can be made in the same device.

During the sawing process, sawdust is formed, usually of a fine fraction. Do not throw away this "junk": sawdust will come in handy for finishing cabinet work as a filler for putty. It is better to collect them in two or three small boxes, but separate light, red, brown colors by wood species. You will not regret when you do inlay or when cracks appear in the parquet floor.

Jigsaw sawing techniques look somewhat different. When cutting a pattern on plywood, hold the jigsaw with the right hand under a sheet of plywood so that the handle is in an upright position, and the bow of the machine rests on the hand between the hand and the elbow. For cross-cutting thin strips, longitudinal sawing of planks 5-8 mm thick, as well as cutting plywood, you can use a jigsaw in the same way as a hacksaw. In this case, the jigsaw blade must be installed in the machine with the teeth tilted away from you. The saw will work when moving forward, as opposed to moving from top to bottom when cutting patterns. In thin planks and plywood, it is convenient to cut out spikes and holes (eyes) for them with a jigsaw.

When cutting, plywood must be strengthened in a vice with the front side facing you, so that burrs and chips do not form on it.

A jigsaw is often used to cut thermoplastic plastics that can heat up easily from friction, making cutting difficult or impossible. You can prevent seizing by lubricating the saw line with machine oil. For work with a jigsaw, saws are suitable for both wood and metal.

Sharpening glands. Planing takes an equally important place in woodworking after sawing. It is easier to sharpen a piece of iron of a plane or chisel than to dilute and sharpen a saw. To do this, you need to have two bars: one is emery or coarse-grained sand for coarse sharpening, the second is a fine-grained whetstone for dressing, that is, for removing burrs from the blade. The width of the bar should slightly exceed the width of the piece of iron to be sharpened, but the touchstone may be narrow.

The chisel has a bevel towards the cutting part, called a chamfer, its angle in relation to the plane of the chisel can vary from 20 to 40 °. A piece of iron with a smaller sharpening angle cuts wood, especially hard species, easier and cleaner, but dulls quickly. To avoid chipping of the blade when cross-cutting wood fibers (for example, using a chisel instead of a chisel), it is advisable to sharpen the piece of iron at an angle of more than 25-30 °.

When sharpening, the chisel is held with the right hand by the handle, and with the left fingers press the piece of iron against the bar
Sharpening a piece of iron on a flat bar: 1; 2 - correct; 3 - wrong; on a round stone: 4 - after sharpening; 5 - after dressing on a donkey
the entire plane of the chamfer and rhythmic longitudinal movements are driven along the plane of the bar moistened with water. Sharpening is carried out until burrs form on the back of the smooth side of the piece of iron, they are easy to feel if you slide your finger across the blade. Periodically, you should moisten both the bar and the piece of iron with water, washing off the particles of abrasive and metal. During sharpening, the piece of iron must be held at the same angle to the surface of the bar. Usually, if the tool is not running, this operation takes only 4-5 minutes (Fig. 4).

The sharpening geometry is checked with a wooden square. The blade of the planer or chisel should be straight. A slight (up to 0.2-0.5 mm) rounding of the blade at the ends is allowed, but in no case a depression in the middle. The angle between the line of the blade and the edges of the piece of iron is straight. It should be borne in mind that some glands are made somewhat narrowed in width to the tail, then the square is alternately applied on both sides.

After sharpening on the chamfer with a simple eye, shallow scratches formed on the metal by the grains of the bar are noticeable. Now the piece of iron must be directed, sharpened, deburred. This is done on a touchstone. The dressing is done not by longitudinal, but alternately by circular and longitudinal movements of the piece of iron along the surface of the donkey moistened with water as follows.

First, three or four sliding circular movements with the back of the piece of iron along the touchstone, their surfaces should fit snugly against each other, the editing angle will be zero. Light scratches from burrs will remain on the donkey. In this case, the burrs themselves are not grinded, but only bent towards the chamfer.

Then the piece of iron is again moistened with water, turned over with the chamfer down and make five to six transverse sliding movements, as when sharpening. The pressure in both cases should be weak. Alternate editing is repeated several times.

Now look at the chamfer under oblique rays of light, its surface becomes smooth, shiny, scratches disappear. Slide your finger across the blade on both sides: you can see that the burrs are grinded. Editing can be considered complete when the blade along its entire length becomes smooth, with a mirror shine, and burrs with a light touch with a finger will not be felt at all. This operation usually takes 2-3 minutes.

Sharpening and straightening of planer and jointer glands is carried out in the same way.

The position of the hands and fingers is of great importance, it is different in the process of sharpening and dressing. In the first case, the piece of iron is held by the tail with the right palm, and with two fingers of the left hand, the chamfer is pressed against the bar. In the second case, when the burrs are removed (folded back) from the back, the piece of iron is lightly pressed against the touchstone with four fingers of the left hand, and with the right only the tail of the piece of the plane or the handle of the chisel is held.

The bar and the touchstone are poorly adhered to the surface of the workbench during work, they slide, fidget. This inconvenience can be easily eliminated by placing a thick sheet of wet paper or pieces of thin rubber around the edges under the block. You can hold a block in a vise, but you can easily split it. Better to fix the block in a wooden block.

To do this, take a piece of wood 40-60 mm longer than a bar in length, and 20 mm in height and width. Put a block or whetstone on it, draw a contour with a pencil, along which, using a sharp chisel, make indentations. Make deep cuts along the longitudinal lines. It is difficult to cut wood across the grain, it is necessary to chisel: place the chisel blade along the transverse risks and lightly hit the handle with a hammer. It is more convenient to work with a wide chisel. Install it strictly vertically. Then turn the chisel with the chamfer away from you, set it at a slight angle and chop off the wood with light hammer blows (Fig. 5). And so along the entire perimeter.

The sequence of operations (indicated by numbers) for hollowing out recesses (nests) The depth of the groove with a bar thickness of 20-25 mm should be 7-8 mm. The bottom must be cleaned, leveled with a sharp chisel so that the resulting sides are of the same height. Now put the block in the block, slightly moisten it. After the first use, the slurry formed during sharpening of the tool will fill the gap, the bar will be firmly held in the block. It is convenient to clamp it in a vice, it is convenient for them to sharpen an ax, to correct a scythe.

To sharpen a planer on a block, you need to make at least 100 movements. It is difficult all this time to keep it at one angle to the plane of the bar.

The most convenient for sharpening of cutting tools is a mechanical sharpener with a round stone with a diameter of 100-120 mm and preferably the greatest thickness. A manual sharpener greatly facilitates work, saves time spent on sharpening the tool. Sharpening techniques are different here, the cutting angle is also formed differently.

Usually, a mechanical sharpener has a device for setting the piece of iron at the required angle and holding it in this position. If it is not there, then the piece of iron is held with the left hand in such a position that the planes of the chamfer and the stone coincide, and the back end rested against the table. On the workbench to which the sharpener is screwed, you can mark the position of the sharpened piece of metal with a pencil line or make an emphasis using a clamp.

The tool is sharpened on the sharpener without wetting the stone with water, so you need to make sure that the blade does not heat up too much, until the metal darkens, otherwise the steel can be released and re-hardening will be required. Sparks that scatter during strong rotation of the stone testify to the high quality of the tool steel and its good hardening.

The end of sharpening will again be indicated by the appearance of burrs on the cutting edge. Editing is done on a conventional whetstone in the way already described. But it should be borne in mind that the chamfer now does not represent a flat plane, it is concave according to the diameter of the circle. During dressing, only the upper and lower edges will be grinded down to a mirror finish on the touchstone. This reduces the friction of the chamfer when cutting wood. In addition, it is easy to increase the sharpening angle by changing its inclination during the dressing process on the donkey. The straightening of the piece of iron sharpened in this way can be repeated several times without preliminary processing on a sharpener.

Cabinetmakers, before starting to work with decorative plywood or hardwood, when a special cleanliness of cutting is required, resort to this technique. The piece of iron directed at the donkey is placed with its tip on a knot in the board, hit on the handle with a hammer, and then again the blade on the donkey is adjusted even more accurately.

In this way, the finest burrs, which can only be seen under a strong magnifying glass, are detected and grinded.

In Moscow and in many other cities there are workshops that accept orders from the population for sharpening various tools, including carpentry:
Planing. The main tool for planing is a double-iron planer, it can remain for a long time the only plow in the workshop of a home carpenter, so perfect is its design, tested by many generations of carpenters. A plane with a wooden block is preferable to a metal one, which requires special skills.

The plane consists of a rectangular block, it is better if it is glued together from two or three plates of wood of different species to prevent deformation of the block, especially its sole. The most suitable wood is hornbeam, ash, maple, birch, beech. In the center of the block, a through hole (tap hole) is made for a piece of iron, consisting of three parts: an incisor (lower piece of iron), a hump (upper) and a short screw, which fasten both pieces of iron in a certain position.

Planer: 1 - three-layer block; 2 - notch; 3 - lower gland; 4 - humpback; 5 - screw; 6 - blade; 7 - mouth; 8 - horn; 9 - boss; 10 - inserts For cleaner planing, the humpback is installed so that its lower edge does not reach the cutter blade by 1.5-2 mm, but fits snugly in this place to the lower piece of iron.

If a gap is noticeable between the glands when looking at the light, then it must be eliminated by sharpening the edge of the humpback with a file or on a flat bar. The humpback's only purpose is to break the shavings as close as possible to the sole of the planer and guide them up the tap hole.

With an increase in the distance between the edges of the pieces of iron, it becomes easier to plan, the work goes faster, the cutter removes thicker chips, thus turning into a single plane. However, it is difficult to obtain a smooth surface, especially on material with knots and other defects.

The double piece of iron is held in the taphole by a wooden blade made of wood that is sufficiently resistant to hammer blows. The letch narrows downwards and forms a hole (mouth) in the sole 6-10 mm wide. The narrower the mouth, the cleaner the planing. An increase in its width leads to the fact that it becomes easier to plan, the chips do not get stuck in the taphole, but it is more difficult to get a clean surface on the workpiece.

A horn is used to hold the plane with the left hand, right palm when planing, it rests against the back of the shoe and the boss.

The sole of the planer is made of the most dense wood, which resists slip wear well. When planing uneven surfaces with knots and hints, the most wear of the sole occurs in two places: in the front part and in front of the edge of the cutter. Even chips of the wood of the sole are possible here. When the wear has just begun, thin plates of hardwood are cut into these places and attached to the glue. Inserts of such plates are also used in those cases when it is necessary to narrow the width of the mouth.

With significant wear of the sole, it is leveled on a large piece of sandpaper or by planing with another plane (preferably a jointer). If at the same time it is necessary to remove a layer that is too thick (say, 5 mm), then the sole can be built up by firmly gluing a plate of hardwood, then the width of the mouth can also be restored.

In all planers and jointers, the edge of the glands protrudes 0.1-1 mm above the plane of the sole. The thickness of the chips, and hence the cleanliness of the planing, again depends on the size of the protrusion. To raise the cutter and reduce the protrusion, lightly hit the back of the block with a hammer (not on the boss!), Which weakens the clamping force of the blade, it can be removed completely. Having installed the piece of iron in the desired position, it is again clamped in the taphole with a wooden wedge. To lower the incisor, the hammer is struck very weakly once or twice, first on the upper part of the piece of iron, and then on the blade. The size of the cutter protrusion is established empirically, according to the thickness of the chips. With some skills, the carpenter sets and fixes the piece of iron in the desired position the first time. To do this, turn the plane over and look along the sole: the size of the protrusion will be noticeable by the cutting edge of the piece of iron shining in the gap.

The disassembled block of a planer, without glands and a blade, is usually impregnated with heated linseed oil or other vegetable oil, rubbed with wax, covered with transparent varnish, which improves the slip of the sole during planing. Planers never paint oil paint, because it is unevenly erased and the appearance of the instrument deteriorates.

All workpieces usually have to be planed, regardless of whether they were planed before or not. If you take a plank that was planed at the factory on a machine, then it is easy to notice on its surface the traces of knives planted on the round shaft of an electrofuganka with the naked eye. If the board was previously processed with a hand plow, then from time to time it could warp or become uneven from the uneven drying of the wood fibers.

The home carpenter often uses pre-owned wood. In all cases, before planing, inspect the surface of the workpiece to make sure there are no protruding nails, screws, or metal clips on it. The surface must be cleaned of traces of lime, sand, paint. Nails may be under the layer of dust and dirt.

The surface after planing must be not only clean but also flat. Cleanliness is achieved by correct sharpening and installation of the piece of iron, as well as by planing in the direction of the grain, not "against the grain". But you can get a flat surface only if you have some experience with a plane.

Place a metal ruler on the newly planed plane of the block (wooden ones often need to be checked themselves) and see if there are any gaps at the ends of the block. If they are, then this is only the result of the fact that you were holding the plane incorrectly.

At the beginning of planing, from the moment when the cutter has not yet touched the wood, and until the plow sole is three-quarters of the length on the processed surface of the block, the plane is pressed with the left hand, holding the horn, and only pushed forward with the right hand. Then the block is pressed with both hands, and at the end of planing, when the horn seems to hang in the air, the effort of the left hand is removed and the pressure is carried out only with the right hand, while with the left, using the horn, they only stretch the plane forward.

The correct planing of long blocks is checked by eye. The correct planing of a wider plank can also be checked by eye, as well as using two slats 150-200 mm long. The plank is placed "with the planed side up on the table, and the slats are installed at the ends. If the plane is not skewed when machining with a plane, the slats will be parallel to each other. Otherwise, the raised edges of the plank must be trimmed (fig. 7).
The bar is planed starting from the surface that will be the front. But before that, you need to take a closer look at the knots, gaps always form around them, especially if thick chips are removed. To get a clean surface on knotty wood, it is necessary to reduce the protrusion of the cutting edge of the piece to a minimum, in this case the chips will become almost transparent to light.

Techniques for checking the correctness of planing: 1 - face with the help of two rails; 2 - edges with a ruler
K.E. Tsiolkovsky's plane: 1 - guides; 2 - cut out workpiece
If you need to shave off a thick layer of wood, more than a millimeter, then it is advisable to cut a knot to this depth with a sharp chisel, and you can soften it with hammer blows. Then the piece of iron will not dull so quickly.

On the plane, which in the future should become the basis for sticking decorative plywood or inlaying, knots should be cut down without fail, and wooden inserts should be glued in their place. This is done as follows. Square plates of such a size are cut out of wood of the same species so that they completely cover the knot, the thickness can be 5-10 mm. Then this blank is superimposed on the knot and outlined around the perimeter with a sharpened pencil or awl. The recess is cut with a chisel and a plate is inserted into it with glue.

KE Tsiolkovsky came up with the idea to equip the plane with guides in order to straighten the planks according to a given thickness without preliminary marking, dispensing with a special thicknessing machine (Fig. 8).

Square. After checking the correctness of the plane, they begin to process the edge, which in the finished product can also be front. The correctness of its planing is checked with a square.

Square (1), shank (2), malka (3) The square consists of a rectangular block and a thin ruler embedded in it (Fig. 9). Shoe length 100-120 mm, width 40-45 mm and thickness 20-25 mm. The ruler can be 180-240 mm long, 25-30 mm wide and 3-5 mm thick. To check the right angles of large-format products (for example, frames, doors), markings of plywood sheets, large squares are used.

The square must be made by yourself. At one end of the block, a cutout is made with a saw with a depth of 8-10 mm less than the width of the ruler. The width of the cutout (eyelet) is made equal to the thickness of the ruler. If, as the last, we take the usual student's (divisions are optional), then the eyelet can be made by cutting with a well-spread saw or two folded together hacksaw blades for metal. The ruler should fit snugly into the cut at one end. Any glue can be used to connect the parts. It is recommended to apply it on both inner sides eyelets.

After the square is assembled with glue, the lug must be clamped in a clamp, having previously adjusted the inner corner. When gluing, only the inner corner is verified, the outer one can be corrected later by removing thin chips from one of the ends of the ruler.

The clamp can be replaced by any other clamp, for example, a meat grinder screw, a vice. It is enough even to press the square to the floor with a table leg or other heavy object and leave it in this position for 3-4 hours.

When the glue is dry, remove the remnants with a chisel, and sand the block and ruler with a sandpaper. Usually this tool, like a plane, is impregnated with linseed oil, coated with wax, varnish.

Thicknesser: 1 - block; 2 - rulers; 3 - crackers; 4 - blade It is easy to check the outer corner of the tool by attaching it to the flat edge of the drawing board, plywood sheet, table, first with one side, then the other. The pencil lines drawn along the ruler should be parallel.

Thicknesser. The planing of the other two surfaces of the bar according to a given thickness and width is performed after marking with a thickness gauge, which, like a square, can be done by yourself. Now that you have acquired the skills to work with a saw, a plane and a chisel, it is not so difficult.

The gage of the simplest design consists of a wooden block, into which a small nail with a sharpened end is driven. On the surface of the tree, it leaves a shallow thin trace - to risk. When marking, the block is applied to the front side of the bar.

When stripping the bar along the surface gauge, it is necessary to periodically make sure that the shavings are removed evenly over the entire plane. You must be especially careful when the cutter of the plane is about to touch the risks. Just try to graze it without cutting off the entire pencil line.

Now the block is planed on three sides, it remains to mark the fourth side with a thickness gauge, plan it, and the workpiece is ready.

It is more convenient to work with a thickness gauge of a more complex design, which allows marking simultaneously in two sizes without changing the tool (Fig. 14). You should also try to make such a thickness gauge yourself.

It consists of six parts: pads measuring 60 × 40 × 20 mm, two square rulers 7X7 mm and up to 150 mm long, two crackers measuring 7X8 × 9 mm and a blade 60 mm long and 7 mm thick. Crackers are made from harder wood. For all parts, only dry wood of any species aged at room temperature is suitable.

A thickness gauge is made in the following sequence. Two rulers are cut out, on a block with a thickness of 14 mm (the cover is glued later, during final assembly) with a saw with fine teeth ( better with a jigsaw) make cuts with a depth of 7 mm, the grooves are selected with a narrow chisel. Then they make a tapered cut for the blade, cut the crackers with a jigsaw, and slightly round off one side of them, facing the blade. The grooves for crackers are cut out with a narrow chisel.

Parts must be checked in a trial assembly and sanded. The blade and crackers should be half a millimeter thinner than the rulers so that they fit freely in their nests. When all the moving parts are well fitted, glue a plate covering them with a thickness of 6 mm. It can be cut out of plywood. So that the plate does not move during gluing and pressing, it can be pre-fixed with two studs 12-15 mm long.

It is better to use thick glue so that when the drops are pressed in, it does not block the moving parts. For the same purpose, when the block is clamped in a vice or clamp, the blade and rulers can be removed.

Thin carnations are hammered at the ends of the rulers, their ends protruding outward are bitten off with nippers and filed so that triangular incisors are formed. On wood, they will leave a thin trace up to a millimeter deep.

The principle of action of the planer is that the movable rulers, set at a given size, are fixed with a light blow with the edge of the chisel on the blade. In this case, the crackers move apart and tightly press the square rulers to the body of the shoe. To free the rulers for resizing, just press the narrow part of the blade with your finger. The rulers can be marked with millimeter marks starting from the point of the cutter.

The design of this planer can be simplified if you make a wedge-shaped clamp not along the rulers, but perpendicular to them. Then crackers will become superfluous. But the disadvantage of such a constructive solution is the fact that the blade unevenly fixes the position of the rulers, their edges are skewed.

For marking, other tools are sometimes required: a jib for making marks at an angle of 45 ° and a bevel with a movable ruler for marking at any angles. The device and the principle of their application are clear from the figures. A joiner can easily do without nonsense, because it is enough to build a square on the workpiece with a ruler and a square, and its diagonals form the desired angle. It is rarely necessary to saw and cut wood at other angles.

DIY carpentry

Carpentry is usually related to the manufacture of window doors and window blocks. It is very difficult and problematic to do it. For such carpentry work, you just need the appropriate skills and certain experience. But if you still decide to do it yourself, then the following procedure should be followed.

Prepare assembly and construction materials for the entire volume of the same type of work;

When harvesting blocks from boards, saw them lengthwise into long bars and cut shorter ones from them wooden blocks by the required size;
When processing, it is necessary to firmly fix it in the workbench;
Perform fine trimming and rounding only from templates;

Hammer the eyes and spikes along the clear marking with an awl in a square. All cuts and cuts should be made only by marking with a bracket or a thickness gauge. Long lines on planks and planks should be marked with blackened thread. The spikes should fit into the lugs and grooves tightly, for which, when filing them, it is necessary to leave marking lines;

Before hammering and gluing, assemble and mark (number) the parts of the product. It is necessary to glue it in a warm room (at temperatures above +15 ° C), and press the parts with wedges or clamps in the cutouts of the boards. Window sashes are glued with casein glue. When gluing the joints, they are pushed halfway apart, with the exception of the deaf ones, which have to be disassembled. After compression, the correctness of the assembly is determined by checking with a square and diagonals;

Make identical products in batches. For example, when making bindings, all the vertical racks are made first, then the horizontal ones, and then the middle for all the bindings at once. This work allows you to achieve higher quality products.

Organization of a carpenter's workplace. In the countryside workplace The home carpenter can be housed in a barn, entryway, veranda, or a dedicated workroom.

In a cramped city apartment, the best places for a carpenter are the front, balcony or loggia. A corner in the kitchen or even in the common living room can be temporarily turned into a workshop for carpentry work. Do not be afraid of shavings and sawdust. A broom, brush, rag and vacuum cleaner will remove them in no time.

If it is possible to allocate a separate room for a home workshop, it is carefully examined, if necessary, it is repaired, the ceiling, walls, floor, doors, windows are painted, general lighting is arranged from a lamp located in the center of the room under the ceiling. For the possibility of using an electrified tool, sockets are installed. Considerable attention is paid to the ventilation of the premises; a fan is used for the hood, which can be purchased at electrical stores. The fan is installed in a window or in a chimney leading to the roof.

The workshop room must be heated. Heating can be central, solid fuel stove and electric. In the latter case, it is best to use a portable oil radiator... When installing heating and lighting in a workshop, fire safety requirements must be strictly observed.

The work table, workbench, workbench, etc. are placed as close to the window as possible; daylight should fall from the left or from the front. Wall cabinets for tools are hung on the walls closer to the workplace. If the area of ​​the room permits, a rack for tools and materials is located at the workplace.
On the wall behind the table, you can fix a board or chipboard with holes in which various hooks and rings are installed for hanging tools, small shelves, boxes with small parts, nails, screws, etc.

In the process of working with tools, injuries are possible. To provide first aid in a workshop or work corner There must be a first aid kit with iodine, bandage, cotton wool, tourniquet, hydrogen peroxide, etc. A cabinet or box with a first aid kit is placed in a conspicuous place. The workshop must also have potable water.

The workplace should have good local artificial lighting. To do this, use a drawing lamp, which is mounted above the table or on a shelf using a special bracket. To illuminate the workplace, you can also use a reflector, usually used to illuminate the subject of photography. To illuminate the workplace, you need a 60W lamp.

The home craftsman's corner in the workroom, front room or youth room can be equipped with a universal cabinet that is designed to store tools and materials. The pull-out board serves as a work table.

Storage of tools and materials. Storage conditions for tools and materials have a significant impact on working conditions, and to a certain extent on the quality of products.

For storing tools in a workshop, a shallow wooden box with a lid is convenient, the dimensions of which are taken depending on the number of tools: For a set of essential tools, a box with a length of 600 ... 700, a width of 400 ... 450 and a height of 120 ... 150 mm is recommended. In the box for each tool, a specific place is allocated with fasteners in the form of loops, wooden bars or partitions.

In the home master carpenter's corner, which is in the front, kitchen, on the veranda, in the pupil's or student's room, tools can be stored in a wall cabinet.

If there is no room for a special tool cabinet or drawer in the apartment, tools can be stored in a combination cabinet or in a desk, having allocated one or three drawers there for this. It is advisable to arrange cells in the boxes. This will improve the conditions for storing and using the tool.

A home master carpenter should always have at hand such materials as trimming boards, wooden bars and slats, steel, iron, copper and aluminum wires of different diameters, tin, trimming sheets of aluminum and brass, nails, screws and bolts of different diameters, pieces of plexiglass and multi-colored plastics, pieces of leatherette, oil and nitro paints, carpentry, rubber, polyvinyl acetate and other adhesives, electrical cords, sockets, plugs, switches, etc.

Materials, like tools, should be stored - in all right, avoiding clutter in the drawer, rack or cabinet designated for them. They are sorted and stacked each in its place. Screws, bolts, nails and other small items are placed in separate boxes or in a box divided by partitions into several compartments. The wire is rolled into rings. Boards, bars, plywood are sorted and stacked on racks. Only short and thick blocks and boards can be stored in an upright position. Neatly laid out materials take up less space, store better, and are easier to use.

JOINT WORKS.

Such work includes the marking of wooden parts, their machining, gluing and assembly, facing and finishing, as well as hanging hinges and handles, inserting locks, installing platbands and handrails, etc. Many of these works can be done by yourself at home, knowing the basic techniques of handling wood and having the necessary tools for this.
For the manufacture of wooden products, boards, solid or glued bars and plates, plywood, chipboard (chipboard) and fibreboard (fiberboard) and other modern materials are usually used.

Boards, bars and slabs made of them are made of natural wood and have all its inherent properties: wood has a fibrous structure, resists shock and vibration loads well (especially when loads are applied along the fibers), is easy to process, reliably joins in products and structures using glue , has high decorative properties.
Plywood consists of 3 or more sheets of wood (veneer) glued together with a thickness of 0.5-1 mm, and these sheets for gluing are folded so that the wood fibers of adjacent sheets are mutually perpendicular. Plywood is available in thickness from 3 to 25 mm.
Particleboard is obtained by hot pressing wood chips with a binder (resin). Plates are produced calibrated in thickness: 10, 18, 20 and 30 mm. They are mainly used for the manufacture of furniture. Chipboard products are well processed, strong enough, do not warp, but they are afraid of dampness - they quickly swell and lose their shape. To protect the chipboard from dampness, they are veneered (covered with veneer), pasted over with a wood-like film, covered with varnish or oil paint.

Fiberboard is made by pressing crushed and split wood with various additives (paraffin, resin, rosin, etc.); used for warming premises (upholstery of walls, ceilings, followed by wallpapering or painting), as finishing material, for the manufacture of containers. Fiberboard products are easy to process, but not strong enough.

Most of the carpentry work performed by hand is carried out using carpentry tools. If there is no workbench, you can work on regular table, covering it with a sheet of plywood, so as not to damage the surface of the countertop, or on the floor.

Carpentry tools are divided into three main types: measuring and marking (rulers, folding rules, compasses, squares, templates, etc.), cutting (saws, axes, planes, chisels, chisels, drills, etc.) and auxiliary (hammers, mallets, rasps, screwdrivers, bracers, brushes, pliers, wiring, etc.). For gluing and assembly, clamping devices (clamps, clamps) are used.
The marking of wooden parts before machining is carried out using a folding wooden or metal meter. On the marks made with a pencil, lines are drawn indicating the processing boundaries (cutting lines).

Mechanical wood processing hand tools includes: sawing and planing of workpieces (and finished products when fitting them to size), cutting of spikes and lugs, chiselling and drilling of sockets and holes, insertion of fasteners and accessories, scraping, grinding. To cut small pieces of wood and cut plywood or chipboard, a single-handed hacksaw is usually used (see Sharpening the Cutting Tool). A hacksaw will cut cleanly and quickly if its teeth are well sharpened and correctly set - bent one through one to the left and to the right. At the same time, the kerf width is slightly greater than the thickness of the saw blade, thanks to which it does not get stuck in the kerf. To spread the saw, you need to use a special tool - wiring, with the help of which the saw teeth are bent to the sides by 0.5-0.7 mm. Not the entire tooth is bent, but only its upper part, about 2/3 of the height from the base of the tooth. The set of teeth on each side must be the same. After setting the saw, the teeth must be sharpened; this is best done with a triangular file.

The quality of the sawn surface depends on the choice of the saw and its preparation, for example, a rough, uneven, ragged surface is obtained when sawing with a saw with too large and poorly sharpened or overly set teeth. Saw should be done from the outside of the marking lines in the same plane, do not press on the saw. Before the end of the sawing, it is necessary to support the sawn-off part of the board or plywood sheet, otherwise chipping may occur and the part will be damaged.

Planing wood is one of the main types of joinery work. This is done using a scherhebel (rough processing), various types of planers (primary and clean planing), a jointer (final processing of long parts) and sanding (final cleaning). For planing curly surfaces, use a tongue-and-groove (selection of tongue-and-groove piles), zenzubel (selection and stripping of quarters), fillet (cutting grooves), humpbacks (processing convex and concave surfaces), etc. Usually, at home, it is enough to have a sherhebel and a small plane; you can limit yourself to one plane for primary processing.

Chiseling is used to select grooves and other recesses, performed using chisels and chisels. Chisels are produced in various widths, the width of the blade must correspond to the hole. You should know that chisels and chisels are sold, as a rule, sharpened.
If you want to make a through hole, then chisel from both sides of the part in opposite directions, with one-sided chiselling, you can severely damage the edges of the outlet hole, they will be "torn". It is recommended to put a piece of board or a piece of plywood under the workpiece so as not to damage the surface of the table on which you are working.
If the width of the board is much larger than required, it can be trimmed with a hatchet. The marking line must be drawn in such a way as to have a certain margin (2-3 mm) in the width of the board for subsequent planing. Cutting should be started with a notch with an ax in several places of the edge to be removed, after which the board should be expanded and cut off the edge to the marking line. Using a planer, remove the existing irregularities and bring the board to the desired size.

Scraping and sanding - final operations mechanical processing wooden products, carried out in order to prepare the surface for veneering during finishing. These operations are carried out using rasps, cycles, files and sandpaper (skins); the roughest processing is carried out with a rasp, finishing grinding - with fine abrasive sandpaper.

Bonding and assembly of wooden parts and products. The main types of joinery connections: gluing, joinery knitting and connections with metal fasteners. In carpentry work, any adhesives are used that are suitable for gluing wood, including carpentry, (flesh or bone), casein, epoxy, PVA, "Moment-1", etc.

Joinery knitting is the term for connections of elements in which one of the parts has a protruding element - a spike that fits into a socket or eyelet of another part corresponding to its size and shape. The pins can be single and double, through and blind. Often joinery knitting is carried out by means of round or flat plug-in tenons. Usually joinery knits are made with glue, for collapsible joints - without glue, by means of metal fasteners: screws, bolts, nails, plates, rivets, etc.
For carpentry work, etc., it is useful to have a set of different screws. Screws are produced in different sizes with two types of slots on the head - slotted and cruciform. Accordingly, you need to select a screwdriver. To prevent the screw head from protruding above the surface of the part, the hole must be countersunk - with a drill, the thickness of which is equal to or several larger diameter screw heads.

Fastening wooden parts with nails has some peculiarities. Before driving a nail into a hardwood part, it is recommended that you drill a hole slightly smaller than the thickness of the nail. The same should be done when you need to nail in a thin bar or hammer in a nail 120-200 mm long. When driving nails into parts of small thickness, the point of the nail must first be slightly dulled, for example with a hammer blow. A small nail will fit more easily into the board if it is dampened in water.

Veneering (veneering) is usually carried out for decorative purposes and therefore most often veneers of valuable wood species are used for this, as well as decorative film"Wood grain" on a self-adhesive base or without it. For veneering, the surface of the product should be prepared - carefully leveled and sanded with sanding paper or cycles. Then select the piece of veneer you need in size and pattern. On the surface of the part and veneer, apply a thin layer of glue (carpentry, casein, PVA, "Moment", etc.), then press it tightly against the part over the entire surface to be glued and leave it in this form until the glue is completely dry. Excess veneer, protruding beyond the edges of the surface to be faced, must be cut off with a sharp knife, and the cut points must be cleaned with fine sandpaper. To bring out the wood pattern more clearly, the veneered surface should also be cleaned with fine abrasive paper and varnished or wiped with a solution of natural wax in turpentine. After the coating has dried well, it should be sanded again and reapplied. So repeat 3-4 times.

When using a film "wood-like", the surface of the product should be prepared especially carefully, since the slightest roughness becomes especially noticeable on the smooth surface of the film. Often, the film is used for lining chipboard products - the surface of the product should be sanded, the ends of the plate should be putty and also cleaned with sandpaper, and then carefully remove dust, dirt, grease stains from the surface of the product. Coat a well-cleaned surface with varnish 1-2 times. When using a film with a self-adhesive base, it is recommended to cover the already cleaned surface of the product with 1-2 layers of varnish before pasting, let it dry thoroughly and only after that stick the film. On the surface prepared in this way, the film adheres more firmly and does not lag around the edges. Any wood glue can be used to glue faux paper veneers with a non-self-adhesive backing. The surface of the product under paper plywood does not require such a thorough preparation as under the film; enough to keep it flat and clean.

Finishing includes sealing holes, cracks and cracks on the surface of wooden parts and products, varnishing and painting them. Various types of putty based on drying oil, varnish, synthetic resins, and wood glue are used to seal wood surface defects. For example, holes and deep recesses in chipboard can be conveniently sealed with sawdust mixed with epoxy resin or wood glue. A universal epoxy putty is also available, suitable for almost all wood products.
Natural wood products are best finished in the following way: wipe the surface with a dry cloth and then use a tampon to cover it with liquid stain several times until the wood acquires the desired shade. Often, after staining, wooden products are coated with furniture varnish, which gives a decorative look and protects against the harmful effects of moisture. Various oil, nitrocellulose, shellac (alcohol), perchlorovinyl and polyester varnishes are widely used. Most varnishes are colorless. Varnishes, especially liquid varnishes, are well absorbed by wood, and in order to obtain a smooth shiny surface, several layers of varnish must be applied to the product, and each subsequent layer should be applied only after the previous one dries.

When painting wooden products, their surface must first be prepared: level, putty and clean. In order for the paint to hold better, the surface of the product must be coated with a primer (for example, drying oil, red lead). It is best to apply the paint in a thin layer, evenly over the entire surface, several times.

Carpenter's working instructions

1. General Provisions

1.1. This instruction was developed based on the requirements:

1.1.1. Article 17 of the Law of Ukraine "On labor protection"

1.1.2. Directory of qualification characteristics of workers' professions, approved by order of the Ministry of Labor and Social Policy of Ukraine dated 16.02.98 No. 24

1.2. The carpenter is hired by the head physician of the sanatorium on the recommendation of the deputy. ch. doctor (chief engineer) and only Ch. the doctor of the sanatorium.

Acceptance, transfer and dismissal are formalized by an order for the enterprise (sanatorium)

1.3. The carpenter in his work is subordinate to the deputy. ch. PM doctor (chief engineer), maintenance engineer.

2. Tasks and responsibilities.

2.1. The tasks of the joiner are:

2.1.1. Carry out carpentry and repair work in accordance with the requirements of the drawing and technical documentation.
2.1.2. Careful maintenance of equipment, power tools in accordance with the requirements of the manufacturer's instructions.

2.2. The duties of a carpenter are:

2.2.1. Follow the instructions and orders of the administration.

2.2.2. To put things in order in the carpentry workshop, monitor the state of lighting, alarms, observe the sanitary regime.

2.2.3. Carry out high-quality carpentry work in accordance with the current documentation and the requirements of the E TKS, depending on the qualifications (category)

2.2.4. Repair joinery (windows, etc.), furniture (bedside tables, beds, etc.)

2.2.5. Replace locks in doors, cabinets, latches, latches, etc., guided by the passports of manufacturers.

2.2.6. Follow the instructions on labor protection, fire safety and this instruction.

2.2.7. Follow the internal regulations, instructions on the rules of conduct.

2.2.8. Use materials efficiently and economically.

2.2.9. Constantly improve their qualifications.

2.2.10. Remove inventory, tools, protective equipment to the designated places.

2.2.11. Put things in order at the workplace after completing work in buildings and structures, store materials, carpentry, etc.

2.2.12. Maintain established documentation.

2.2.13. Undergo preliminary and periodic medical examinations in accordance with the established procedure.

2.2.14. Comply with labor protection obligations stipulated by the collective agreement.

2.2.15. Cooperate with the administration in the organization of safe and harmless working conditions.

2.2.16. Give a written explanation at the request of the administration in case of accidents, breakdowns of equipment, tools, violations of instructions, etc.

2.2.17. Take good care of the tool, inventory, etc.

2.2.18. Participate in the repair of the tool on the instructions and orders of the administration, guided by a special technological process and relevant instructions.

2.2.19. To fulfill the duties of a woodworking machine operator, a carpenter in the presence of appropriate qualification certificates, documents and orders for the enterprise.

3.1 The joiner has the right:

3.1.1 Require the organization of the workplace and the conduct of work in accordance with regulations... , provision of materials, tools, carpentry, inventory, etc. necessary for the performance of carpentry work.

3.1.2 Require the timely repair of power tools, paving equipment.

3.1.3 Refuse to perform work if the working and workplace conditions do not comply with the regulations on labor protection and fire safety

3.1.4 Require the provision of sanitary facilities and their equipment in accordance with the requirements of regulatory enactments, PPE (overalls, safety footwear, safety devices).

3.1.5 Require the issuance of a shift task and briefing on labor protection.

3.1.6 Require the provision of benefits and compensations for difficult and harmful working conditions (based on the results of certification of workplaces).

3.1.7 Submit proposals for improving the organization of carpentry work.

4 Responsibility

4.1. The joiner is responsible for:

4.1.1. Failure to fulfill a shift task, poor quality of work, defective work.

4.1.2. Failure to comply with the instructions of the administration.

4.1.3. Failure to comply with orders for the enterprise, the provisions of the collective agreement.

4.1.4. Violation of this instruction, internal labor regulations, instructions on the rules of conduct, instructions on labor protection and fire safety, instructions for the operation of equipment, equipment, tools, technological documentation of drawings, etc.

4.1.5. Disabling (breaking) of paving means, inventory, tools, etc.

4.1.6. Use of materials and tools, equipment, joinery for personal needs, etc.

4.1.7. Loss of tools and PPE through their own fault.

4.1.8. Clutter and dirt in the carpentry shop.

4.1.9. Uneconomic waste of materials (in violation of approved standards).

4.2. The carpenter is liable in accordance with the internal labor regulations and current legislation.

5 Must know (be able to).

5.1. Must know:

5.1.1. Properties of wood of different species and its defects, types of joinery and their

Constructions, hardware and their applications, constructions and devices of locks.

5.1.2. Glues, mastics, putties, antiseptic pastes, etc.

5.1.3. Technological processes of joinery, joinery and furniture repair.

5.1.4. Appointment and arrangement of hand and power tools, malfunctions and malfunctions in the operation of the tool, the procedure for their elimination.

5.1.5. Rules for the use of materials, tools, equipment, joinery and up.

5.1.6. Rigging, fixtures and fittings for work.

5.1.7. Legislation on labor protection, fire safety, Labor Code.

5.1.8. Internal labor regulations and instructions on the rules of conduct.

5.1.9. Standard sets of tools, devices, containers, paving equipment, protective equipment, etc., required for work.

5.1.10. Labor protection, fire safety instructions and this manual

5.1.11. Equipment operation instructions.

5.1.12. Accident elimination plan (instructions).

5.1.13. Rules for handling primary fire extinguishing agents.

5.2. The carpenter must be able to.

5.2.1. Carry out carpentry work qualitatively (depending on the category

Qualifications in accordance with ETKS)

5.2.2. Handle hand and mechanized tools, inventory,

Rigging, etc.

5.2.3. Wear overalls, safety footwear and protective equipment.

5.2.4. Handle primary extinguishing media.

5.2.5. Provide first aid to the victim.

6 Qualification requirements.

The carpenter must have 8-11 grades of general education and training in a special program in the vocational education system. (SPTU, GPTU, UKK, etc.)

7 Relationships (connections by profession)

7.1 Joiner:

7.1.1 Receives a work (shift) task from the operation engineer, deputy. ch. PM doctor (chief engineer.)

7.1.2. Hand over the completed work to the maintenance engineer, deputy. ch. PM doctor

(to chief engineer)

7.1.3. Informs about all the shortcomings, remarks to the operation engineer, deputy.

Ch. PM doctor (chief engineer)

7.1.4. Interacts with other workers of the brigade, technical service in accordance with the requirements established by orders, orders and instructions.

7.1.5. Receives tools, overalls, hardware, materials, personal protective equipment, etc. from the storekeeper.

7.1.6. He works in contact with the hostess sisters and other heads of departments, fulfilling their requests as deputy. ch. PM doctor (chief engineer).

7.2. All disagreements between the carpenter and other workers, the operation engineer are resolved by the deputy. ch. PM doctor (chief engineer)

Carpentry and carpentry tools

Hand tools are designed to perform work with their own strength. Most of the described tools can be easily replaced with mechanical or electrical counterparts. But for many types of joinery and carpentry work, hand tools remain indispensable.

Conventionally, carpentry and carpentry tools can be divided according to their purpose: for sawing, planing, chiselling and trimming, drilling and auxiliary work.

General purpose tools

The hammer is perhaps the most important tool for carpentry and joinery work. The stores sell ready-made hammers, as well as individual parts. For the handle of the hammer, they use the wood of dogwood, pear, acacia, which are particularly hard and cheap. Only high quality steel is used for the hammer. But even this simple tool has several varieties.

A common hammer can be found in any store. The impact surface of such a hammer has a rectangular or square plane. The other end of the firing pin is sharpened and is often used to straighten nails when driving.

A wooden mallet, or mallet, is used to grind wood blocks when gluing. It is also quite often needed when working with a chisel with a handle made of wood. Hits with a conventional hammer can simply shatter the handle and render the chisel unusable.

Mallet.

A carpenter's hammer differs from the usual one in that the tail of the striker is divided into two parts, like a dovetail. This end is most often used for pulling out nails.

Pliers are essential for working with wood. Their main purpose is pulling out nails, biting off the heads of nails, bending wires and nails when fastening.

Depending on what needs to be done with the nail, a distinction is made between needle-nose pliers, pliers and round-nose pliers.

For example, pliers and pliers are used for pulling, bending, biting nails, unscrewing nuts, removing screws with torn grooves from wood, and for other auxiliary work.

Doboinik in carpentry and carpentry used for deepening the nail head into solid wood.

A screwdriver is used to fasten wood pieces with screws. Depending on the groove on the screw head, you must have two types of screwdrivers: wedge-shaped and cross-shaped.

1. Mood matters

Do not step into the workshop if you are tired, in a bad mood, or if your thoughts are occupied with other things. At best, your carpentry success will not be impressive, and at worst, it can end in injury.

2. Eyes, ears and lungs need protection

Always wear eye and hearing protection with a noise reduction rating (NKK) of at least 22 dB when working on machine tools and power tools. A dust mask is better than nothing, but a ”N95 rated respirator is preferred. When working with painting equipment, the respirator must be rated N95 or N99.

3. Get help from others

Most carpenters are happy to share their experience and give advice. A few minutes spent talking with a fellow carpenter or just a neighbor, and the complex process will be simple and enjoyable. You can also seek help from the online forum community.

4. Replenish your supplies

Always keep an adequate supply of basic supplies in your workshop, including masking and double-sided tape, hand-cleaning paste, tweezers with a magnifying glass, first aid kit, and a fire extinguisher.

5. Organization is never overly organized.

Buy or DIY cabinets, shelves and trays according to your needs. When things are tidy, work will be challenging and enjoyable, and you will spend less time looking for tools and supplies.

6. Do with a margin

Sawing flying for the next project, make a few extra ones and use them to check and configure the equipment. Leftover trimmings can be useful for testing wood stains and other finishes to get an accurate idea of ​​how they will look on the finished product.

7. Don't save every penny

Thrift is a good habit, but don't go overboard. Timber is a renewable natural resource, and if you accidentally spoil your work piece, you can buy a new piece of wood. Sandpaper becomes unusable in 5-10 minutes. The glue has a limited shelf life (usually one or two). Jars with paints and varnishes, on the surface of which a dense crust has formed, should be thrown away.

Also on the topic: 8. Life is too short to put up with a bad workbench

Whether you're buying a ready-made workbench or making your own homemade workbench, make sure it's tough enough, has a flat work surface, and at least one powerful vise.

9. Don't expect perfect results

The desire to create a project without a single flaw can "knock you out of the rut", because it is almost impossible to do so. Therefore, do not worry too much about the mistakes that you will inevitably make. Instead, learn to fix them and prevent them from appearing in the future.

10. Take the time to prepare

Sometimes it is worth spending an hour or two making a special tool to perform an operation that takes five seconds. The devices ensure the safety, accuracy and repeatability of the actions performed.

11. Appearance of the product is more important than material waste

Mark the position of the workpieces to be cut on boards and sheets with chalk in order to make rational use of the material. However, sometimes it is better to cut in such a way as to exclude defective areas and benefit from an effective texture pattern or color. When purchasing lumber, plan to lose 10-20% as waste.

12. Adhesive + smooth surface = strong bond

Forget the notion that roughness is essential for good adhesion. Smooth surfaces bond better than rough surfaces. Take the time to make the mating surfaces of the parts smooth and tight against each other. Remember that glue does not adhere to burned surfaces, so avoid them.

13. How to avoid chips - two simple means help to cope with chips

Chips can irreparably damage the workpiece. To prevent their occurrence, support the workpiece from the back using appropriate support. Purchase or make your own splinter inserts for circular saw, band saw, miter saw (miter saw test below), drilling machine. Attach a wooden chipping guard on the back edge of the workpiece to the corner stop. When routing, also support the cutter exit point from the workpiece using a suitable cut.

Make special anti-splinter pads for different angles of inclination saw blade and machine settings, for example for cutting bevels and grooves.

14. How to handle rough boards - the correct procedure

Here's how to process non-planed material to get the right shape.

1. Saw the workpieces with an allowance of at least 6 mm in length, at the same time getting rid of the end cracks.
2. Sharpen one face with a planer.
3. On a thicknessing machine, make the other face parallel to the first and bevel the workpiece to the final thickness, removing the same amount of material from both sides.
4. Use a planer to cut one edge perpendicular to the face.
5. Saw the workpiece to the final width with the circular saw.
6. Saw the workpiece to the final length.

15. Nothing replaces accurate markings

Neither glue nor putty will help rescue a weakened joint. Therefore, get yourself quality marking tools - a combination square, a steel ruler, a marking knife and a thickness gauge - and learn how to work with them.

16. Do not process artificial materials on planers.

Composite materials such as plywood, chipboard and MDF, due to the high glue content, blunt planer and thickness planer knives much faster than wood.

17. Templates guarantee fast and accurate results

When you need to make several identical parts with cutouts or curved contours, you can speed up the work and achieve accuracy by sawing them in a bag and processing them according to a template on a milling table.

Secure several blanks with double-sided tape. The stop rod will help hold the bag at the start of the pass.

18. First assembly, then glue

Always do dry assembly before applying adhesive. You may not want to find poorly fitted joints or non-rectangularity after the adhesive has been applied.

19. Pre-sanding pays off handsomely

Before assembly, grind as many parts as possible, especially their internal surfaces, which will be difficult to access after assembly.

20. Don't be picky about the clamps.

Most of us hardly need anything more sophisticated than inexpensive, time-tested pipe clamps. Stock up with 30 sets of clamps; 60; 90 and 120 cm, four pieces of each size. To get longer clamps, connect them to each other using couplings, or buy longer pipe lengths and simply move the clamps between them. Add to this some handy one-handed clamps (such as the Quick-Grip) in 15 and 30 cm lengths. Purchase other clamps only as needed.

21. Install the hardware, and then remove and reinstall

Before applying any stain or clearcoat, reassemble and install metal parts to make sure everything works as expected. Then remove all hardware, apply trim and reinstall the hardware. This ensures that the coating is applied to all surfaces of the product except metal parts.

22. "Almost right" angle means not rectangular

When assembling products with right angles, it is important to achieve perfect squareness, especially if the item has inset doors or drawers. Therefore, buy or make mounting brackets for a neat assembly. Without them, you are doomed to correct mistakes for the rest of the project time.

23. Have an understanding of wood and how to cut it

Get to know the most common tree species (especially those found in your area). This will help tune your "internal radar" to look for great deals. You can save money by purchasing unedged boards from local sawmills and lumber bases. First, learn to distinguish between sawing methods. Radial boards are the most expensive, but also warp resistant and produce the least waste. Tangentially cut boards, on the other hand, are cheaper, but tend to warp and generate more waste. Mixed sawn timber occupies an intermediate position between the two types described.

radial cut

tangential cut

mixed cut

24. Wood changes size - consider this!

Seasonal fluctuations in air humidity cause wood shrinkage and swelling. Changes in size mainly occur in the direction across the fibers, and only slightly along them. Take this into account when creating products, otherwise the parts will crack, the joints will fall apart, and the moving parts will jam. These problems can be minimized by allowing the materials to adapt to the humidity in your workshop by letting them sit for a few days before starting work.

Even when the moisture content of the wood reaches a stable level, the same as in environment, the tree still changes its size due to seasonal fluctuations in humidity.

25. Find out the real meaning of the concept of "cubic capacity"

Outside of hypermarkets, wood flakes are set per cubic meter (a unit of volume equivalent to a dense stack of 1 × 1 x1m). Measurements are made as follows: the thickness of the board is multiplied by the width and length, expressed in meters. For example, the volume of one board 50x 150 × 6000 mm is 0.05 × 0.15 × 6 = 0.045 m 3. There will be 22 such boards in one cubic meter (1: 0.045 = 22.2).

26. Sharp means safe

Dull knives and chisels require a lot of effort when cutting wood. Increasing force increases the likelihood that the instrument will slip or lose control of it, which often leads to injury. So sharpen your hand tools regularly.

27. Know when to spend and when to save

Buy high quality machines and tools if you intend to use them for decades (router, circular saw and thicknessing machine). Equipment that is used only occasionally (oscillating and belt sanders, pneumatic staplers) does not have to be expensive.

Steel tools rust. Learn to remove and prevent rust, especially if you live in a high humidity environment. Leave homemade recipes aside and try one of the proven anti-corrosion products like Empire Top Saver Rust Remover and Rust Remover, Boeshield Rust-Free Rust Remover. protective agent Boeshield T-9.

29. Thicknessing will not flatten the boards

The thicknessing machine makes two sides of the board parallel, but it is not able to eliminate buckling or helical twisting (wing-like). First, you need to process one face of the board on a planer, so you should have both of these machines. The cost will pay off in the savings thanks to the ability to work with cheap, unplaned boards.

30. Sometimes you can work faster with hand tools than with electric

Here are just two examples. Chamfering with a little bit usually takes less time than setting up a cutter and setting up a router. Good hacksaw will allow you to cut a ledge on a tenon in half-dark faster than a saw.

31. An improved filter for the dust extraction system requires additional costs

When purchasing a chip sucker, keep in mind that filtration is just as important (if not more important) as airflow (l / min) or engine power. Most chip suckers come with a standard 30 micron filter, and when used, a significant portion of the dust gets back into the air you breathe. Purchase a filter with a purification degree of no more than 5 microns, and if possible, then 1 or 2 microns.

32. Buying a router in a set is beneficial

If you can only afford one router, select the mid-power model (1300 to 1700 W) with the plunge base and fixed base kit. Install the fixed base in milling table, and for manual milling, move the electric motor to the plunge base.

33. Both inexpensive and high quality cutters have their uses

Large sets of cutters, in which the cost of one cutter is $ 1-2, it makes sense to buy if you do not use them often. Those cutters that you use constantly (mainly rounding cutters, copying, straight, spiral, chamfering and rebate cutters), it is better to buy separately, not stingy. They cut cleaner, stay sharp longer and are more durable.

34. Machine tools need care too

Almost any new machine needs tweaking to achieve high precision. Check (and adjust if necessary) the settings from time to time during routine maintenance. Thus, the notches for the miter fence and the rip fence of the saw machine must be aligned parallel to the saw blade. This will ensure accurate and safe sawing.

Use a dial gauge or combination square to set the saw table parallel to the blade. The table is set correctly if the measurements are the same at the leading and trailing edge of the disc.

35. Oiled materials can cause fire

Rags and brushes that have been soaked with stain or oil-based varnish can catch fire if left in couch or discarded while wet. Hang them individually and let dry before disposing of them.

36. Trim the panels before assembly to avoid drying problems.

Doors or side panels made of solid wood should be painted and finished before assembly. In this case, with the inevitable drying of the panel, its unfinished edges will not be exposed.

37. When working with a spray, remove the back wall

When applying a coating from a spray gun to a body with a rear wall installed, excess composition (dust) will fly off from it directly into your face - an unpleasant prospect. Instead, remove the back wall and paint it separately.

38. Hand sanding will provide a better look

Despite the large, in the final stage, it should be sanded by hand along the grain direction in order to eliminate the transverse scratches-risks.

39. Find the best way to finish

It is not at all necessary to master the technologies of applying all existing types of coatings. Find one or two coatings that work for you (say, oil-based coatings for items that are rarely handled, and polyurethane for items that need more reliable protection), and learn how to work with them.

40. Additional sanding will help to avoid darkening of the ends.

Sand the visible end cuts with sandpaper one number higher than the faces and edges. In this case, the ends will absorb less stain and will better match the color of the entire product.

41 Products to be treated with stain need additional sanding

When sanding the cut parts, start with 120 grit sandpaper and then work with 150 grit and 180 grit abrasives. If you intend to apply oil or clear varnish, stop after sanding with 180. However, if you are going to tint the item, sand it with up to 220 grit sandpaper to remove minor scratches that will appear after applying the dye.

42. Notice the marks of the cutting tool in time

Traces left by cutting tools that are poorly visible in natural light (seizures, ripples and steps after processing in a thicknessing machine) can lurk on obverse your product while waiting for the finish to be applied. To identify them, inspect the parts under oblique lighting, and if defects are found, remove them with sandpaper, a planer or a cycle.

Based on materials from the magazine for artisans "Wood Master" (excellent edition)

Practice: Test miter saw BOSCH GCM 12 GDL (not advertising)

The miter saw, which we mentioned above, mentioning the fight against chips when processing a part, is convenient and effective when performing both small and large volumes of work due to the prompt preparation and quick changeover of the saw blade tilt angles. Cutting accuracy and cutting quality ensure that the task is completed the first time without rework, that is, without wasting time and material.

The scope of delivery includes the GCM 12 GDL Professional miter saw itself with the saw blade installed, a handle for fixing the swing angle of the bed, a clamp for clamping the workpiece, a dust bag and two hex keys. If you need to cut aluminum parts, you should additionally purchase special saw blades with a trapezoidal tooth sharpening.

PREPARATION

The stage did not take long. A sturdy kitchen table was used as a workbench. We securely attached the saw to its cover with four M8 bolts. The next step is to install a handle that fixes the angle of rotation of the bed. A special dust bag was put on the suction pipe. A screw clamp is used to fix the workpiece. It is good that the designers have provided the frame extensions. It was thanks to their extreme position that it was possible to securely fix the workpiece, although it was long.

We calculated the connection angles of the rafter elements in advance, and now it only remained to set them exactly on the graduation dial. By turning the work bed, we set the first corner and fixed it.

On the blank of the rafter, the marks of the beginning of the cut have already been applied. The workpiece was placed on the bed and previously secured. After that, the mechanism of the spatial movement of the working body was unblocked. By moving the locking lever, they lowered the saw blade onto the workpiece and, loosening the fastening of the latter and moving it, aligned the saw teeth with the mark. It remains to connect the saw to the network and turn on the start button

The very first sawing was pleasantly surprised by the ease of the process and the high quality of the cut. Moving the saw blade forward is virtually effortless. The lever mechanism for moving the working tool is compact and really easy to use. Changing the cutting angle was quick and easy. Changes in the cutting angle during sawing were not revealed - the subsequent assembly of the rafters showed a high accuracy of the cutting angle of each element, which significantly reduced the time for their final assembly.

Saw control is literally at your fingertips: the lock for the selected tilt angle of the saw blade is on the protrusion of the bed on the left, the lock for the swing angle is on the right, and the accidental movement lock button is in the center.

A double laser marker is convenient - the lines show the actual width of the cut, and not its middle. This allows for a more accurate cut, which is also very important. In general, working with this tool is a pleasure. The movement is light, smooth, without jamming, the fixed parts are rigid, the graduation scales are easy to read, the standard disc saws very accurately. However, the absence of a button to block the accidental start of the engine requires special attention, especially in the process of mastering the novelty. It should also be borne in mind that at the maximum cutting angles at the end of the process, the movable part of the saw may touch the arm of the bracket locking mechanism or the clamp post.

How to check the quality of lumber and choose a quality one? A few tips.

Harvesters cut each log in such a way as to get the maximum number of boards or beams from it, which are quite different in quality.

Good lumber has fewer knots and is less likely to warp.

V good boards for the manufacture of flooring, wood fibers are usually located parallel to the surface of the board or at an angle to the surface up to 45 ° (Fig, 2). Lumber with a transverse arrangement of wood fibers to the surface of the board is a low grade of construction timber.

When making flooring, try to lay the boards up with the side closer to the tree bark.

Otherwise, the edges of the board will lift when warping, and it will accumulate even more water, which will lead to decay of the wood.

Construction timber is either fresh or dried. Lumber dried in special ovens is much more expensive than fresh timber, and the timber made by you wooden structure over time it will dry out on the street by itself.

When choosing blanks, make sure that there are no longitudinal and transverse cracks, delamination and wood splits in them.

These defects not only weaken the load-bearing capacity of the boards, but also make them unsightly, and can also cause dangerous splinters.
Also try to avoid buying lumber that is warped, twisted, or twisted.

Rice. 2. Billets and defects of lumber: 1 - wood fibers are located parallel to the face of the board; 2-wood fibers are located at an angle to the face of the board; 3-wood fibers are located across the surface of the board; 4 - cracks; 5 - stratification of wood; 6 - splits in the workpiece; 7 - warping of the board; 8 - twisting the board; 9.10 - curvature of the board relative to different axes. CONVENIENT DEVICE FOR FOLDING CLOTHES To ... How and how to protect the overhangs ...

as my teacher said in childhood, you need to start with

instrument, or better with tool box and a workbench.

Woodworking: The process of making something using wood.

Most beekeepers become carpenters or use their services.

The craftsmanship of woodworking belongs to one of the most ancient and widespread types of human activity. Since ancient times, when a person was just beginning to learn all the possibilities of using wood, he was already associated with this material in all its types and forms. The growth and development of mankind was closely intertwined with the possibility of the development of the art of woodworking and the growth of the possibilities of using wood.

Already at the beginning of time, wood was used mainly as a material for building houses, making tools, weapons, dishes and other items necessary for life. With the development of mankind, wood began to be used to create luxury goods and decoration. Rafts and all kinds of ships began to be built. This greatly accelerated the development of new lands.

With the growth of skill and knowledge about the properties of wood, this material has become almost everywhere one of the main materials used in all areas of human activity. Those with a talent for woodworking became respected artisans and artisans. To unite and protect their interests, workshops and guilds of joiners and carpenters were created. To preserve the acquired skills and knowledge, they began to recruit apprentices and apprentices for training. Experience and skill began to be passed on from generation to generation.

Among the woodworkers, their own specialists began to stand out, each with its own tool, projects and secrets of woodworking. Here are just a few of them:

Wheel-maker is a carpenter for the manufacture of wooden wheels and spokes.
Cooper is a master of making barrels, tubs and other prefabricated utensils.
A wood carver is almost an artist who can create a masterpiece with a chisel from a piece of wood.

A wood turner - a lathe and cutters, that's all a craftsman needs to make round and symmetrical products such as legs for chairs and tables, candlesticks, balusters, chiseled wooden dishes.
The carpenter is a master wood builder. He should know everything about a tree and be able to make everything from it that a person needs to live.
Cabinetmaker - expensive furniture was made mainly of mahogany, so they began to call furniture craftsmen cabinetmakers.
Shipman - before, all ships were built of wood, but now this profession is needed - boats, boats and yachts are sometimes built from wood.
Parquetry - creates wooden floors from inlaid parquet, combining the colors and structures of various types of wood.

For work, the carpenter needs a board; you can buy it or saw it yourself.

you can saw with homemade sawmills like this

or more professionally with modern sawmills

Nowadays, some of these professions have become rare, but they can never completely disappear. Although steel, plastic, concrete and other materials have largely supplanted wood, a person will never part with wood completely. Wood products always look livelier, warmer and more attractive to us. No one will put plastic sculptures in a museum, and wooden sculpture exists on its own as an art form.
Wood is used in many areas of our life, including residential and industrial construction, furniture manufacturing. In many ways, the use of wood products is caused not only by practical considerations, but mainly by pleasure, appearance, traditions of our society and pride in the beauty of our home.
For many today, woodworking provides a livelihood. But more and more people are engaged in various types of woodworking during their rest, it brings them joy and pleasure, it becomes a rest for the soul, their useful hobby.

Something like this !!!

this is also made of wood

In addition to this, in our time, tools, technologies and devices have reached a new level of development, have become more sophisticated. A novice joiner or carpenter will be amazed at the huge selection of tools and accessories for their business.
An experienced carpenter recognizes that his craftsmanship is the result of many years of experience and long training. Knowledge and experience are needed in order to create a beautiful casket, a table decorated with carvings, to build a beautiful house.
However, ignorance of where to start a project, where to focus your attention, discourages many novice carpenters and carpenters, they quickly lose interest and give up this business, believing that it is not for them. On the other hand, starting an overly complex project with an inappropriate tool, the novice master comes to the same conclusion - this is not his business and goes into another type of activity.
Luckily tips and tricks experienced master on wood will help the novice carpenter in his endeavors. To provide ourselves with comprehensive knowledge of wood processing, we must work hard, consult with specialists, learn from them the subtleties of woodworking, take everything useful from their many years of experience.

you can watch a movie how to make a door

There will be a board, you can do carpentry, but you need to saw it somehow

You need to start with the main types of woodworking, using the main types of tools. Don't start with overly complex projects. From simple to complex - this should be your rule. Strong knowledge of different types of wood, the ability to work with the main types of tools, compliance with all safety rules - all this will lead you to success in this business.

Most of my friends in the past were carpenters, then they began to make beehives

and beekeeping.