High humidity on your site is fraught with disastrous consequences: water suppresses root system plant crops, which provokes their disease and subsequent death. Moreover, moisture washes away the foundation of the building and outbuildings, so the structures are flooded and begin to quickly collapse. Can these problems be avoided? The best option for their prevention is a drainage device in the summer cottage. This procedure is not so difficult as to hire professional builders- you can do it yourself. And in order for you to succeed, we invite you to learn more about the advantages and features of drainage and get acquainted with the simplest ways of arranging it.

Why do you need drainage

Each summer resident invariably asks the same question: does his site need drainage so much? You can find the answer yourself - just evaluate your summer cottage territory. Your garden is often overgrown with sedge, there are puddles on the site for a long time after rain, the earth dries for a long time after watering or melting of snowdrifts - the first signs that you cannot do without drainage. In order to be even more convinced of this, conduct a simple experiment: dig a hole 50-70 cm deep - if in a day it is full of water, without hesitation, proceed to the arrangement of the system.

Drainage arrangement scheme at the site

But there are four more conditions for which drainage is required:

• groundwater is very high;
• the cottage is on dense clay soil;
• the site is located on a pronounced slope, or vice versa - in a lowland;
• there is regular rainfall in your area.

As you can see, drainage is indispensable in almost all areas. So, if you want plants and trees to please with their growth, the paths are not deformed, and the dacha is not flooded, start construction work.

Types of systems: surface and deep drainage of the site

When the question of the importance of drainage is closed, decide which system you need. It can be of two types.

Superficial- the simplest drainage option. His functional purpose- to divert water that falls on the land in the form of various precipitations, for example, rain or snow. This system works well on level ground without pronounced slopes. This drainage is essentially a system of ditches located along the entire perimeter of the site. Over time, the water that collects in the ditches is either discharged into a special drainage tank, or simply evaporates. The surface system can be combined with traditional storm sewers.

Deep drainage

Deep- drainage closed type... Such a system is needed if your site:

• located on uneven terrain;
• located on clay soil;
• has high underground waters;
• for any other reason is difficult to operate.

Deep drainage allows you to effectively protect from increased moisture not only garden and horticultural crops, but also the cottage itself, and all utility rooms.

Advice. Since the installation of deep drainage system requires serious land works, it is recommended to do it even before you start planting the bulk of the crops. Even more the best option, if possible, - arrangement of drainage in parallel with the laying of the foundation.

Preparatory work

Drainage is an engineering structure, which is a branched system of trenches and pipes. All its elements are interconnected and scattered, as a rule, along the entire perimeter of the site. Based on the above features, installation work cannot begin without a clear design of the drainage system.

In the project you need to specify the following points: location of all drainage trenches, water flow, diagram of vertical sections of drainage, location of wells, depth of drainage. It is also important to determine the dimensions of all components of the system and their slope, in relation to the upper soil. Such a detailed project plan will give you the opportunity to quickly navigate the location of all the elements of the drainage system in the process of its arrangement, that is, it will simply make your work easier.

pad drainage pipes

An important component of pre-construction procedures is the preparation of a set of tools and consumables that are necessary for installation work:

• perforated pipes with a diameter of 75-100 mm;
• parts for connecting pipes - couplings and fittings;
• drainage wells;
• hacksaw;
• ramming tool;
• rail;
• building level;
• geotextile for drainage;
• crushed stone;
• sand;
• shovel;
• a wheelbarrow for the removal of land and the supply of building materials.

This type of drainage is technically a simple process.

1. Dig a trench along the entire perimeter of the summer cottage: depth - 70 cm, width - 50 cm. Its slope should be at least 25-30 degrees towards the water outlet.
2. Dig auxiliary ditches at the same angle.
3. Move the trench and ditches to a single drainage well.

Advice. To make sure that the trench is working, do a simple test: pour water into the trench and see if it flows in the right direction, that is, towards the well. If you notice deviations, be sure to correct the angle of the trench walls, otherwise the system will not be able to fully perform its functions.

1. Lay drainage geotextiles in the finished trenches.
2. Fill the trenches with different-format rubble on the geotextile: two-thirds are large grains, and one-third are small.
3. Place turf on a layer of fine crushed stone.

Surface drainage system

In the second case, the continuation of the construction of the drainage after digging the trench is as follows:

1. Prepare plastic drainage trays.
2. Pour a layer of sand no more than 10 cm at the bottom of the trench. Tamp it well with a manual rammer.
3. Place plastic trays in the trench.
4. Install sand traps.
5. Install decorative grilles on the trays - they will protect the drainage from debris and leaves, and also give it a nicer look.

Deep drainage in clay soils and other difficult terrain

The algorithm for constructing a deep system in difficult areas is as follows:

As you can see, there is nothing unreal in the device of the drainage system at the summer cottage, so do not be afraid to take on such work yourself. The main thing is to accurately determine the required type of drainage and follow the rules for its installation. And do not forget that by making efforts just once, you can protect yourself from a host of problems in the future, namely, from the death of garden and horticultural crops and flooding of your own summer cottage.

Drainage in the country with your own hands: photo

The lucky ones are summer residents who have a flat area with fertile permeable soils, which does not require significant work to improve it.

Just do that, break up flower beds, a vegetable garden and plant beautiful trees and shrubs. However, do not be discouraged if your piece of land is in the water every year in spring or autumn.

A drainage device at a summer cottage will solve this problem, and you will also join the ranks of happy summer residents who do not know the problems of swampy gardens and vegetable gardens. To do this, consider how to do the work with your own hands, having previously selected a suitable drainage scheme.

The main types of drainage

Seeing water on the site, do not immediately rush into a panic and do drainage throughout the site. First, you need to determine whether it is so necessary and if it is still needed, then in what volumes.

The correct solution would be to determine the type of soil (geology of the site), and it is also worth observing how quickly the water leaves during the spring melting of snow and autumn showers.

If the soil is heavy clay, the site is located in a lowland, then drainage is necessary not only around the house, but throughout the site.

Having completed the drainage in the country with your own hands, you will only spend money on materials, but doing the work yourself requires some knowledge.

There are the following types of drainage:

• The drainage system is deep - horizontal, consists of drains that bury the earth in previously dug trenches (ditches) on a base prepared in advance. They converge to the collector pipe, and then the water enters the wells, the number of which depends on the configuration and size of the site.
• Wells form the following type - vertical, or wall drainage. With its construction, there will be a lot of excavated soil, the distribution of which over the site should be thought about in advance. Water from the system of wells is pumped out by a pump outside the suburban area.
• Surface, or storm - a horizontal drainage system at a summer cottage that collects surface runoff (precipitation). It is subdivided into point and linear drainage systems.

Point involves the use of storm water inlets and wells. They are installed in places where water accumulates (drains, court pits, etc.).

With the linear principle of drainage, a system of trays and sand traps is used. They are laid in such a way that they do not intersect.

When digging a trench for laying the structure, it is done gravel pad... The channels themselves are covered with storm grates, which can be removed if necessary.

Competent drainage garden plot will help solve drainage problems for years to come. If available garden paths they will not collapse from moisture, the foundation will not be exposed to the harmful effects of water, since it will be protected from destruction from dampness, and garden plants will not rot and will delight with their fresh greenery, healthy appearance and lush flowering.

How to make drainage at the site?

It is necessary to approach the performance of work with responsibility, since the structure will serve for more than one year, and the frequency of repairs will be proportional to how correctly the system is laid.

In order to properly make drainage, you first need to draw up a site plan with elevation marks applied to it, by which you will determine the highest and lowest places.

You also need to know the level groundwater... Usually, surveyors and hydrogeologists are hired for this, who will make a topographic plan for you and take the appropriate measurements. As a result, if the groundwater level is less than 2.5 m, then drainage is definitely necessary. A plan is being made for laying the drainage system at the summer cottage.

First, you need to purchase the appropriate materials: drainage pipes (plastic, polyethylene or PVC). They are corrugated, have holes (perforated) and stiffeners.

Polyethylene pipes are laid to a depth of no more than 3 m, and from PVC - up to 10 m. The service life of such pipes is more than 50 years, their diameter is 50-200 mm (100 mm are popular).

Pipes are laid before filling the foundation of the house from the outside, and it is necessary to make it waterproof. According to the scheme, we drip trenches, the bottom of which is rammed and leveled with a mixture of coarse sand and gravel (layer 5 cm), then we put pipes with a minimum slope in clay soils –2 mm per 1 lm, in sandy soils –3 mm.

However, it is better to take 5-10 mm per 1 rm. Then we fill the pipes with water-permeable material (layer 10-30 cm): first with crushed stone or gravel, then we lay geotextiles and put sand on it.

For observation and cleaning of pipes, we install inspection wells (diameter 400 mm and 700 mm, height - 0.5-2 m) made of reinforced concrete, but you can buy ready-made ones made of plastic. From the pipes, water will flow into the well, so it is installed at the lowest point of the site. This water can be used for irrigation or discharged off-site (for example, into a ditch).

To flush the pipes from sand and other inclusions, water is supplied through rotary wells under pressure, it is carried out every 5-10 years. The hatches can be decorated with sculptures, special stone-shaped covers, etc.

Useful video for creating drainage on the site:

In order for your garden to grow and develop according to the laws of nature, and not according to your whim, the soil must have such properties that would fully favor the growth and development of plants.

To do this, it is necessary to create as close as possible to natural growth conditions - thermal, water, air and mineral regimes.

One of the steps to creating such an environment is to drain the soil at the site.

Many gardeners notice that after melting snow or heavy rain, water is not absorbed into the soil for a long time, there are puddles in the garden, and the water even rots. Waterlogging of the soil is always detrimental to most plants in the middle lane.

Excess moisture reduces the access of air to the roots of plants, so the plants begin to experience oxygen starvation and die.

In winter, in the lowlands, plants often die from getting wet. The flora in such places feels depressed, grows poorly, plants quickly lose their decorative and fertile qualities. This behavior of the garden suggests that the water regime that exists in the garden is not suitable for your plants.

To improve the quality of the soil and create more favorable conditions for growth garden plants, soil drainage is carried out, during which excess water is removed from the garden or summer cottage.

The task of drainage is to ensure the most favorable condition of the upper soil cover at a depth of 1-1.5 meters by diverting water from the cultivated land.

Drainage systems can be divided into deep and surface.

Surface

Simple drainage of the site protects the soil from waterlogging, which can be caused by precipitation, melt water, etc.

Surface drainage is of two types:

1. Linear

This is a system of trays laid directly on the surface of the ground, inclined towards the water intake or.

For the safety of use, the trays are closed from above with special decorative protective grilles.

Linear drainage in the garden is common, which greatly increases its efficiency.

The trash box traps small stones, sand and debris that can enter the wastewater and contribute to accelerated clogging of the system. Linear drainage in the country does an excellent job of draining excess water from the soil, provided that the groundwater in this place is deep.

1. Point

This drainage assumes that water is collected. Through pipes laid underground, this water is discharged into the general drainage and enters the water intake.

Artificial water intakes are installed under street drain pipes, water taps or at the lowest point of the garden area, so excess water is collected without additional devices.

Deep

It regulates the water balance in the ground by laying perforated pipes called drains. These pipes absorb excess moisture from the soil.

If surface drainage can be done by hand, then deep drainage is recommended to be carried out by specialists.

For deep drainage, a hydrogeological study of the soil is necessary.

Soil protection from water and system design

Drainage and water diversion are the main methods of regulating and protecting an area from water. Such measures are taken if:

1. The site is located at the bottom of a gentle slope, from above along which water constantly flows.
2. If rainwater or melt water from the entire slope manages to saturate the soil during runoff.

If the site has a slope of more than three degrees, then it must be protected mainly from washing off the fertile layer.

Drainage and protection of the site from surface rain or melt water is carried out in two ways:

1. Embankment - shafts are made from any bulk material, except for sand. The shafts are installed on the water inlet side.
2. Water interception and arrangement of shallow ditches with their location across the slope above and below the site, followed by drainage into the storm drain.

What tasks are solved with the help of drainage:

1. Fast drainage of rain and melt water. This measure brings the site into working condition immediately after rain or thawing of the soil.
2. Lowering the water table, draining excess water after a rainy season or after a rainstorm. This is more often the case for areas on heavy clay soils.

Independent drainage can be done, but if you are not confident in your abilities, then it is better to entrust specialists with both design and construction.

On small area the drainage project can be carried out without preliminary calculations.

It is necessary to take into account the depth of the drains (drainage pipes), the diameter and their slope, the distance between them, the location, how the mouth of the drainage and inspection wells will be arranged.

Do-it-yourself work on the drainage of the suburban area

The drainage system is a complex of structures. Usually on the drained area there is a water intake, a conductive network, a regulating network and a fencing network:

• A water intake is a natural body of water (river, stream, lake). Also, they can serve as a ravine or ditch.
• The water supply network, that is, drainage, is an adjustable system of closed collectors and open channels through which water is discharged into the water intake from the area to be drained.
• The control network is an open drainage system that consists of ditches. Such a network can be arranged over large areas or along their perimeter, and the conducting network can be run along the street.

Also, drainage can be closed, vertical, horizontal, or mixed.

It is more profitable to use horizontal closed drainage, which is arranged from deep trenches. At the bottom of these trenches, drains are made - these are either drainage pipes, or any material that is able to conduct the flow of water: crushed stone with clay, brick, gravel, etc.

The purpose of drainage is to collect excess groundwater and rainwater and drain it into a water intake. With the help of drainage, the moisture in the upper, fertile soil layer is regulated. Trenches are made with a slope to the water intake, and the rate of discharge of excess water depends on the slope.

In order to intercept the unpaved and rainwater, a network of enclosing channels up to 2 meters deep is arranged along the perimeter.

DIY surface system device

Any drainage begins with the device of a new or connection of an existing water intake. If a water intake is made or already exists, then a trench must be laid under it, in which a closed collector will pass. Through the collector from the drain, water enters the water intake.

Drains also require trenches. Trench size for collector and drain on small areas(less than 50 acres) can be the same - 30-40 cm, depth - up to 1.5 m. Pipes for the collector and drain are selected with a diameter of up to 100 mm.

The collector must be below the drains so that the water itself flows first into the collector, and then into the water intake. If the drains and the collector are made open, then their depth depends on the terrain.

If the area is flat or has minimum slope, then a channel depth of 1.5 m is sufficient. All drainage should have a slope of 2-5 mm per 1 running meter for pipes of 100 mm in diameter. If the diameter of the pipes is larger, then the slope becomes larger.

Watch a video on how you can do surface drainage with your own hands

Location on the ground

The drainage system should be located:

• from the house at a distance of at least 1 meter
• from the fence - at a distance of 0.5 m.

Distance between drains:

• for clay soil should be 7-10 meters
• for light soil - up to 15-20 meters.

If the site is located on a slope or in a lowland, and the water intake is higher, then it is necessary to build a drainage well with a depth of 2-5 meters.

It is installed in the well, which pumps out water in automatic mode. The well needs to be strengthened concrete rings or fittings. You can also lay out the walls of the well with stone or brick.
In order to protect the pipes from the penetration of clay particles, geotextiles are wrapped around them. Pipes with ready-made protection are also sold.

In addition, a volumetric drainage filter can be used, which is made from textile waste, straw, peat, coconut fiber, etc.

An organic filter, for example, made of the same straw, is also effective for the reason that it does not clog up with solid and silty particles for a long time, that is, it does not reduce its permeability, since its porosity is constantly restored during the process of self-decomposition.

The use of organic filters is especially effective on clay and loamy soils.

To make such a filter, it is necessary to pour crushed stone with a layer of 5 cm at the bottom of the drainage trench, and lay pipes on the crushed stone at a specified angle. From above, the pipes are lined with straw, then crushed stone with a layer of 30-40 cm.

Crushed stone should be used in the middle fraction - 10-30 mm. Do not use crushed stone or gravel mixed with lime, as it creates an aggressive environment for pipes.

On top of the crushed stone, sand is poured in a layer of 5-30 cm, on which the sod is the last to be laid - a fertile layer of soil.

The use of pipes for laying the system is most effective for draining or reclaiming an area. Do not forget that drainage only on the basis of crushed stone, gravel or brick will work well only for 5-10 years. After that, it needs to be completely changed.

Therefore, it is better to spend a little more money and filter the drainage system, which will extend its operation for the same period of time.

At correct arrangement, maintenance and operation of the pipe drainage system can last up to 50 years. But there is one indispensable condition - a tractor or a heavy vehicle must not be allowed on the site.

If you need the presence of technology, then it is easier to make a temporary entrance. After dismantling the temporary road, this section still needs to be loosened at least to a depth of 20-30 cm.

Remember - drainage works not only where pipes are laid. Its effectiveness extends to the entire site. Pipes should be flushed every few years with a high pressure water jet to prevent siltation.

If the drainage system is equipped correctly, then during its operation (1-2 years) a favorable hydrological and reclamation regime will be established on your garden plot, which will maintain the maximum effective conditions for the growth and development of plants.

After the rain, the vegetable garden and garden turn into lakes? The easiest way to get rid of dirt and puddles is to make drainage at your summer cottage. Moisture that accumulates in depressions and flows down slopes, eroding the soil, is not only an aesthetic problem. Over time, a constant excess of water will lead to the depletion of the fertile layer, damage to the root system of trees, erosion of the foundation of the house and constant flooding of the basement and outbuildings.

• The site is located on a slope - in this case, you have to divert all the water flowing from the neighboring summer cottages.
• The relief is uneven, with depressions and rises.
• The soil is oversaturated with moisture, there is a constant high level of groundwater.
• Dominated by dense solid soil, poorly absorbing water after heavy precipitation, snow melting.

Types and methods of performing drainage in the country

Depending on the reasons for the swampiness, they choose the type of arrangement for the drainage of the site in the country. There are two ways to drain soil:

• Surface water diversion.
• Deep drainage - correction of the groundwater level.

Benefits of performing full drainage

The surface method is used when flooding occurs on the site only after heavy precipitation, during the thaw season and melting of the snow cover. There are several options for arranging waste disposal. If the construction of a house is not planned at the dacha, and the land is used only for seasonal work, you can do without complex drainage systems and large investments. It is not difficult to make the simplest channels for drainage, if you take into account the basic rules: choosing the direction and depth of trenches, laying trajectory.

Flooded area after the thaw

Deep drainage of groundwater is necessary to protect buildings - if you do not drain water from the outer perimeter of the foundation, then in the season of rising groundwater levels, the basement and basement rooms will inevitably be flooded. Eroded soil around the house will weaken the foundation structure. In addition, in the area with swampy rocks, difficulties will arise with the arrangement of landscape structures. To drain the deep layers, a closed drainage technique is used with drainage outside the suburban area.

A site with difficult terrain and the need for a combined drainage system

To ensure complete protection of your home and personal plot are developing combined projects with the simultaneous installation of a deep drainage network and surface gutters connecting at water collection points.

Surface option: construction features

To determine which of superficial ways drainage in the country will allow you to get rid of dirt on the site, you must:

• Analyze the number of places where water accumulates after heavy rain - perhaps it is enough to make only a few drainage points.

• Determine the direction of natural flows so as not to be mistaken with the trajectory of ditching.

• Find a place to drain excess water. If there is no body of water nearby, a drainage ditch between sites, or a deep ditch, you will have to equip a sink for drainage.

Surface channels on site

Types of surface drainage systems

With your own hands, it is advisable to equip only surface country drainage of a point or linear type - these systems do not require the use of technology, and you can plan the ditching sites yourself:

• Point outlet. The system of local collection of excess moisture is the installation of receivers or the arrangement of drainage ditches directly in places where liquid accumulates: in recesses, under drain pipes, in the lowest places of the site, at points of height difference. Multiple collection points for rainwater can solve the problem if the main area is not flooded after rain.

• Linear system... This method involves covering the entire area of ​​the summer cottage with a system of connected trenches for draining the liquid. The linear scheme is implemented with the arrangement of a closed or open trench system. The advantage of this method is uniform drainage of the soil throughout the entire territory.

Installation of a linear drainage system in the garden

Open system for removing moisture from the ground

The simplest and cheap way to make drainage at the summer cottage - to equip an open system of linear surface drainage. Drainage ditches are dug at an inclination to a relatively shallow depth - up to 50 - 70 cm. The width of the trenches varies: from the narrowest at the beginning of the branch, to widening by several tens of centimeters in the direction from the beginning of the groove to the connecting line. The largest width is dug out at the point of discharge. The walls of the trenches are formed at an angle to the bottom - the angle of inclination should be up to 30 - 35 o.

To strengthen the walls, use:

• Remains of building materials: slate, brick, concrete slabs.

Walls reinforced with slate sheets

• Perforated textiles - agro and geotextiles. Special material that does not rot. Plants germinate through small holes, which with their root system are able to strengthen the soil on the walls and protect the groove from shedding.

Gutter protection soft material

• Concrete gutters, metal mesh, laid on the mortar stone.

River stone groove: easy to clean

How to make the most economical drainage in the country? Leave the channels completely open by backfilling them with rubble, gravel or a mixed gravel-sand mixture. Such budget solution perfect for areas where soil erosion problems are infrequent.

Backfill surface drainage groove

There are many design options for open channels: ready-made trays made of plastic, metal, concrete with decorative gratings.

Closed drainage network

It is much more difficult to make a closed drainage at a summer cottage without the involvement of specialists. A closed system is a network of perforated pipes, laid with the obligatory observance of technology, a slope along the entire perimeter of the site.

Closed system diagram

To complete the work, it is necessary to accurately plan the installation sites of the pipes - in case of an error, the entire branch will have to be redone. Therefore, craftsmen use laser rangefinders and special equipment to calculate the required depth and slope of the pipeline to the nearest millimeters.

Execution of work: choice of direction of installation

Before installing the perforated pipes, the dug trenches are strengthened and a gravel bed is created. Textiles must be installed under the backfill. Pipes are selected for different sections of the system different diameters.

Installation of a perforated pipeline

In addition to the costs of pipes and earthworks, it is necessary to calculate the number of revision tanks. Perforated pipes will have to be washed, and in order to get to the junction, wells are installed along the line with access to the surface.

Wells are a must closed system

The advantage of a closed exhaust system is that it is completely invisible. The pipes are dug into the ground, and after the end of the work, there is no open ditches... It is advisable to equip a closed drainage during the construction of a house. At a summer cottage, which is used only for seasonal growing of vegetables, it is enough to make a simple, economical open system.

The easiest way to drain the soil in the country: do-it-yourself surface drainage

How to drain a wet area? Draw simple scheme and dig open channels connected to the drain. As a receiver of waters diverted from the site, you can use:

• A roadside ditch or ditch.
• An artificial or natural reservoir located below the dacha.

Output of an open branch to the receiver pit

• A gravel bottom pit dug at the lowest point of the site.

• A plastic tank dug into the ground.

Preparation of materials and marking of the site

The materials and tools that are needed to make drainage in the country with your own hands are in every house:

• Shovels, picks - in case you have to dig in hard rocky ground.

• Wheelbarrows and buckets for transferring and transporting the extracted clay.

• Pegs and line, or tape - to mark the site.

From building materials you will need: remnants of bricks, slate; gravel of different fractions and sand. Choice decorative materials depends only on the owner's desire: you can buy gratings to protect the ditches from pollution, or simply fill the trenches with stone in the form of paths.

Drainage channel in the form of a rocky path

How to determine the correct trajectory and location of ditches without special tools? It is enough to observe the natural direction of the streams after a heavy rain or to look closely at the footprints on the clay in the spring. Traces left by running water are ideal for digging ditches. It is advisable to make a preliminary markup on the diagram.

Scheme for planning the laying of drainage channels

Ditching: Rules for Excavation

The most time consuming stage is earthworks. With open surface drainage, the depth of the ditches should be about half a meter. Width - from 40 to 80 cm, up to 1 m - at the point of discharge. Before starting work, the selected trajectory is marked with pegs with a stretched fishing line.

Grooves are dug along the marking line

Digging trenches begins from the top point of the site. The excavated soil is stored on one side of the ditch. The usual plastic construction film laid on the edge of the trench will greatly simplify cleaning after the end of the work. The excavated soil can be used for leveling and filling the beds and flower beds.

The side walls must be formed at an angle. On an inclined surface, the liquid flows faster to the bottom, in addition, the bottom is not washed out due to the impact of falling streams. The finished grooves must be compacted: the bottom and walls must be even and solid.

Dig the line to the junction with the receiving tank.

Arrangement of trenches and drainage

There are 3 options for arranging ditches:

• Soft - with laying a layer of soil on top of the backfill.

• Gutter - a concrete gutter without a cover is placed in the prepared trench.

• Backfill - backfill is carried out to the surface level.

To prolong the life of the drainage system, it is necessary to strengthen the walls and equip the bulk cushions to facilitate the outflow of fluid. A perforated film or a special geotextile fabric is placed in the trench. Water flows freely through the holes, partially absorbing into the soil.

Channels with stacked protective film

At the bottom, a layer of gravel or crushed stone of different fractions is necessarily poured: at the bottom - a large one, as it approaches the surface - a fine fraction. Between the layers of the backfill, it is advisable to install flow accelerators from scrap materials that will serve as a pipe. Use cropped plastic bottles without a bottom, large pieces of brick laid with gaps, bundles of branches and brushwood up to 30-50 cm long.

Simple materials that can be laid in grooves instead of perforated pipes

The finished trench can be left open, or covered with a decorative lattice. Mesh metal covers will protect the channel from clogging with branches and leaves. If the film is installed with an overlap, then the sod layer with lawn grass can hide the groove from prying eyes.

Mesh-reinforced main trench

Video: country drainage

Video lesson on how to plan and make drainage in the country with your own hands, without investing money in a complex system.

You can drain a moderate amount of water from the site yourself. But if a building is planned in the country country house, a simple open system is not enough to drain the wetland, it is better to consult a specialist. A system with a combination of a deep and surface network is complex in planning and arrangement, and an error in calculations can lead to the fact that water remains on the surface of the soil.

The need for drainage of the site arises in the area where groundwater is close and there is a significant amount of precipitation. To avoid leaching and waterlogging of the soil, as well as undermining of foundations and flooding of basements, one should professionally approach the organization of the drainage system.

For the first time, a system for collecting and discharging water outside land plots was created in Ancient Babylon, and, despite the fact that after centuries technology has advanced significantly, today the drainage of the site is carried out according to the same principle.

Varieties of drainage systems

By purpose, drainage systems are divided into the following types:

• superficial (open type),
• deep(closed type).

Surface drainage of the site, in turn, is subdivided into:

• point... In the organization of the point system, storm water inlets, sedimentation tanks (drainage drains), storm dampers and ladders are used. Storm water inlets are installed directly under drain roof drains, in doorways, under irrigation pipes and taps, as well as in places where local collection of water is required. A point catchment effectively complements linear drainage where an efficient and fast drainage from the site is required. The water collectors are connected by underground pipes through which water enters the well storm sewer... Point drainage of the site allows you to effectively remove excess moisture that has fallen in the form of precipitation. The prerequisites for the high-quality operation of this system are its regular cleaning and professional maintenance.
• linear... It can be either wall-mounted or remote from buildings. The linear system is represented by trays with gratings designed to receive rainfall that did not fall into the point sewage system. The catchment point is a stormwater well. This option most relevant for areas where groundwater is not too close to the surface. The storm drainage device does not provide for serious surface preparation. All that is required is to create flat slopes on both sides of the gutter line. This will help reduce the risk of soil shrinkage, reduce the length of storm channels, and increase the catchment area. The drainage system is connected to the stormwater through horizontal and vertical branches. To increase the efficiency of the system, experts recommend equipping it with sand traps;
• ... The construction of the deep system is carried out in areas where groundwater is located at a distance of up to 2.5 meters, and provides for a significant amount of earthworks... Therefore, experts recommend starting its arrangement before starting the construction of a house.

Deep drainage of the site can be:

• trumpet... It is used if the groundwater at the site is deep. To create it, you will need perforated pipes (drains). The pipes are laid underground at a certain slope, moisture enters them through the holes and is transported to the collection points (storage well, drainage tunnel, storm sewer well);
• stratal... One of the most common types of deep drainage systems. It is laid at the base of the building and provides for the organization of a filtering crushed stone cushion.

If heavy rain is possible in your area, it is worth choosing a hybrid system that provides for the organization deep drainage of the site and storm sewers... The storm drain can be either point or linear.

Preparation for the construction of drainage

There are several types of sites that are guaranteed to require a drainage system. These include:

• located on lands with a high clay content - even with light rain, puddles will constantly stand on the site;
• with a high threshold of groundwater;
• with a flat surface, as a result of which water does not have the ability to drain anywhere;
• located at the bottom of the slopes - in case of floods or melting snow, they instantly flood.

The choice of the type of drainage of the garden plot should be carried out based on the territorial relief. However, before thinking about which type of soil drainage to give preference to, you need to know that there are two types of system:

• open;
• closed.

Open system

The easiest way to do it with your own hands in the country is to make an open drainage. It is suitable for those areas where water drainage is needed after precipitation or melting snow. The advantages of this system are the simplicity of the device and the low price. For its implementation, it is required to dig drainage ditches around the residential building, the depth of which should be 0.5 m.

On the side where the water comes from, the trench should have a slope of about 30 degrees in order for the water flow to pass as actively as possible. Thus it is dug the right amount ditches, which are connected into one, ending with a well. Next, you need to check if the slope is sufficient, since if it turns out to be too small, then water stagnation will occur in this place. In such a situation, you just need to change the slope of the sewer ditches so that the moisture can quickly go away even with heavy precipitation.

There is one significant drawback in an open drainage system - an unpresentable look. To compensate for this, the ditches are covered with gravel: a larger fraction is placed at the bottom, and a smaller fraction at the top. The material should be large enough, but for the top layer it is permissible to use smaller crushed stone or pebbles.

Closed system

Drainage of a suburban area of ​​a closed (deep) type is used for areas where groundwater is located very high. It will keep you from flooding basements at home. This method requires more effort and financial costs compared to open system dehumidification, since it cannot do without laying pipes.

The depth of pipe laying depends on the type of soil - 60 cm for clay and 100 cm for sandy. The diameter of the main pipes is 100 mm, and the diameter of the additional pipes is slightly less - 75 mm.

The drainage scheme of a closed-type section is called "herringbone", according to the method of pipe laying. Such a system implies an obligatory element: a ditch or a well for drainage. The device of this design will require a lot of effort, but it will pay off in dry times, since the water from the gutter can be used when watering the garden.

For the drainage system, corrugated perforated plastic pipes are used. They are environmentally friendly, easy to install, and inexpensive. The process of their installation directly depends on the type of soil on the site.

A high clay content will require the use of a special filter material. If the soil is of crushed stone type, it is necessary to put crushed stone under the pipe (layer, about 20 cm thick). If the soil on the site is loamy, the pipes are wrapped with geotextiles. Recently, you can purchase ready-made wrapped pipes and immediately start self-assembly drainage at their summer cottage.

Tips to help you get the right drainage:

• Decide on type of drainage system
• If there is heavy rainfall on your site, it will take surface drainage... But to lower the groundwater level, a deep drainage system should be organized. In order to determine if a drainage system is needed in your area, a simple test should be performed. Dig a hole 0.6 m deep on the site and fill it with water. If during the day the water is gone, there is no need for drainage, but if water remains in the pit, this means that the soil on the site is quite dense and you cannot do without a drainage system.
• Calculate correctly during the design process system load
• Load degree on the system depends on the characteristics of the soil on the site, the filtration coefficient in different time years, saturation of the soil with moisture, the volume of water inflow. If you are installing a household drainage system, the load on which will be low, you can use polymer drains, plastic trays and grates. If serious loads are foreseen on the system, it is better to refuse plastic elements. Correct drainage in this case, it will provide for the use of channels, gutters and concrete wells.
• Use quality materials.

The efficiency of the drainage system directly depends on the quality of the materials that were used in its installation. Therefore, do not try to create drainage pipes or any other elements of the system yourself. These dubious savings can be a significant waste for you. It is also not recommended to use regular plastic pipes... Drainage pipes are not much more expensive than usual PVC pipes... But at the same time, the latter work less efficiently, but they clog up quickly. The best option use of rigid corrugated drainage pipes with a smooth inner surface.

• Take care of your filters

Proper drainage of the site involves the use of geotextiles. By wrapping perforated pipes in geotextile, you eliminate the risk of sand getting into them. Also, do not forget about the sand traps. These are special devices that are able to trap small debris (sand, plant seeds, leaves, anything that can clog the stormwater). The drainage system, equipped with sand traps, will operate as efficiently as possible, quickly handling significant volumes of fluid.

Drainage of areas on slopes

If your area is on a slope, the first ditch should be dug at the very top of the area. This will prevent waterlogging of the soil in the area below. The second ditch should be parallel to the first and located at the very bottom of the homestead. You can connect the two ditches with a trench, which will later be laid underground pipe... All water from the site will be collected in the lower ditch and drain into a reservoir or drainage well. In order for the walls of the ditch not to crumble over time, they should be performed at an angle 20-30 °. In a similar way, trenches for deep drainage are made using pipes.

It is quite possible to do the correct drainage of an open type with your own hands, and quite quickly. But the installation of deep systems will require certain knowledge and skills, significant labor and time costs.

Construction works

After the materials have been purchased and the place for the future gutter has been determined, the installation of the structure can begin. First, ditches are dug, the bottom of which is lined with geotextiles (it must be laid with a margin). If you do not want to use geotextiles, then sand should be laid on the bottom, in a layer of about 10 cm or a little more. From above, the pipes are covered with expanded clay or very large crushed stone. The most top layer put the soil removed when digging trenches.

It is necessary to monitor the angle of inclination of the pipes. The correct figure is 7 cm per 10 m of pipe. Parts of pipes are connected with tees or crosses.

Diversion Wastewater drainage usually occurs using a specially made well. The easiest way to assemble it is from reinforced concrete rings, which can be bought ready-made. Another, less expensive option is to use a plastic container.

Pipes are supplied to the installed well. In order for the accumulated liquid to drain freely, a pipe is mounted in the upper part of the well. If this is not possible, then the resulting water is pumped out with a pump.

If you are determined to drain your site, our tips and tricks will help you do it quickly and cost-effectively. It will take several days to complete the entire complex of works.