Brick sauna interior decoration of the ceiling wall insulation. Do-it-yourself brick bath insulation from the inside

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Insulation of a brick bath

When choosing a material for building a bath, many opt for a capital brick building, which will faithfully serve for many years. And this is no coincidence. Brick walls are not afraid of various insects, which happily eat wood fibers in a bath from a bar or from logs, do not rot, do not swell under the influence of moisture and do not dry out in hot summer from solar radiation.

But have brick walls and its disadvantages. These include:

large dead weight;
high thermal conductivity.

And if the first drawback is solved by creating a reliable tape or columnar foundation, then the second requires a thorough thermal insulation device to retain heat inside the steam room.

Which side to insulate - from the inside or from the outside?

Before considering possible options the materials used for insulation, you need to figure out - to insulate the walls of the bath from the outside or from the inside?

How to insulate the walls?

After we have decided on which side the brick walls should be insulated, let's see what can be used for insulation and how the whole insulating "pie" looks like layer by layer.

In ancient times, a variety of materials were used to insulate the walls in the bathhouse - flax, moss, hemp, felt. As you can imagine, the service life of such heaters was short. Plant materials dried up, rotted, eaten by insects and became unusable, and often became the cause of a bath fire, as they flashed from the slightest spark.

But progress does not stand still, and today many types of heaters of a very different chemical composition are produced industrially. These are glass wool, basalt fiber wool and polystyrene foam and polyurethane-based insulation.

The numbers in the figure indicate:

Wall insulation with Rockwool plates

One of the simplest ways to reliably insulate the walls of a bath is to use special Rockwool "Sauna Butts" slabs, produced specifically for insulating saunas and baths.

The insulation is placed between them by a gap, after which the seams between the plates are glued with a special metallized tape, which prevents moisture from entering the insulation layer.

Thermal insulation of walls with ecowool

Another type of modern materials that is increasingly used as insulation for brick walls is ecowool.

If ecowool is produced in accordance with the technology, then it is a highly environmentally friendly insulation material that is not afraid of fire or water, does not support the spread of mold and mildew and can serve for many years.

The only thing to remember when buying is that you should not save and purchase insulation from unknown dealers, since under the guise of ecowool you can simply buy ground waste paper that does not correspond to a small part of the declared characteristics.

To prevent the heat from leaving the steam room, you should take care not only of wall insulation, but also think about floor insulation.

Insulation of the ceiling of the steam room

You should also pay attention to the insulation of the ceiling of the steam room, so that hot air remains inside the room for as long as possible. ... When insulating the ceiling, it should be remembered that the greatest fire hazard represents an incandescent pipe passing through the floor structure, around which it is necessary to arrange reliable insulation of non-combustible material

The place of passage is called ceiling cut... As a rule, the node for the passage of the pipe through the ceiling is a container filled with a non-combustible material with a low coefficient of thermal conductivity.

As you can see, the insulation of the walls of a brick bath is no more difficult than that of a bath made of logs or from a bar. By following the guidelines in this article, you can enjoy a light steam at any time of the year.

Insulation of a brick bath

How to insulate brick walls? Why is it better to use stone wool? What are the disadvantages of Styrofoam? All answers in one article!

A source:

Insulation of the walls of a brick bath

It's time to move on to the most important thing: to insulate brick walls. To do this, you need to tune in to the fact that the bath will "lose" a significant inner space... You just have to make additional wooden ones along the brick load-bearing walls. That is, to make the finishing with clapboard, vapor barrier, insulation itself, waterproofing and leave a ventilation gap between the brick and the insulation. Now about this in more detail.

Installation of vertical bars

They are vertically mounted on brick walls wooden blocks 40-50 mm thick. They should be pretreated with a deep penetration antiseptic, since they will be used in harsh conditions, especially in winter. The distance between them is 60-80 cm.Then it is attached to these bars waterproofing film... All joints are glued with tape.

After that, carefully, without tearing the film, a wooden frame is assembled for the insulation itself. The thickness of the frame depends on the climatic latitudes: if it is warm and moderate, 50 mm is enough, if it is severe, cold, then 100 mm is already needed. The frame is assembled to match the size of the insulation used. The best option is Rockwool mineral basalt wool, especially if it is in the form of slabs and has reflective foil.

Having assembled the frame and laid the insulation in it, it is worth taking care of the vapor barrier of the bath. To do this, lay a layer of foil on top of the insulation. For example, Penotherm is perfect. Only all joints must also be glued with tape for greater insulation of the insulation.

Then, carefully, without damaging the vapor barrier, wooden blocks 25-30 mm thick are attached. And already on them the final finish is mounted - lining or. Now we can list all the layers of the "pie" that was just made, from brick walls to finishing:

Brick walls
Wooden bars
Waterproofing layer
Wooden frame and insulation in it
Vapor barrier layer
Wooden bars
Decorative finishing

It should be noted that between brick wall and with insulation there is a ventilation gap of 40-50 mm. by the thickness of the bars. There is also an air gap between the lining and the insulation 25-30 mm. In short, the total thickness of the insulated wall, not counting the brickwork, will be 20-25 cm. This will greatly affect the internal areas of the room.

The bars on the brick were fixed vertically for a reason. This is due to the fact that if, in severe frost, the walls accidentally "cry", the water flowing down them will freely go down. Although, the correct insulation of the bath, this should not be allowed. For the same reason, special air vents are made in the lower part of the walls for "breathing" and eliminating condensation.

We will not consider how to insulate floors and ceilings here. These activities are carried out according to the usual and standard scheme. But for anyone interested, there are relevant articles on the site.

From the above, it can be seen that the insulation of a brick bath is a rather costly event, both in terms of materials and in terms of physical work... To reach good results, you will have to work long and painstakingly. But, only in this way, the insulation of the bath from the inside will be correct and productive.

Quote of wisdom: Apathy and laziness - a true freezing of the soul and body.

Insulation of a brick bath methods and materials used

The choice of brick as a building material for a bath is an excellent way to simultaneously solve several problems: to give the structure maximum strength and durability, to achieve the ideal geometry of the walls, and also to retain heat perfectly. but heat-saving qualities of bricks not so good as to guarantee the comfort of bath procedures in severe frosts. Therefore, even a brick bath without fail requires additional insulation.

Inner wall surface

Insulation installation procedure

wooden clapboard .

flooring technology:

Thermal insulation of walls from the outside

External work on thermal insulation of a brick bath are carried out using the same mineral wool insulation, which retains heat well, is non-combustible and capable of performing the functions of a sound insulator. If rolled insulation is used, then it is easiest to fix it on the outer walls with wooden strips or slats.

When use of thermal insulation in the form of mats based on mineral wool, the technology for performing work will be somewhat different:

a crate is constructed from a metal profile and corners, fastened with dowels to the outer surface of the wall;

Meanwhile, it is quite possible to use foam sheets to insulate brick baths. The procedure for warming a bath with foam heat-insulating material would be like this:

the surface of the brickwork is freed from all types of contamination;

Ceiling insulation

With poor-quality thermal insulation, up to a quarter of all the heat generated by the furnace can go through the ceiling

Therefore, to reduce losses, ceiling insulation should be given no less attention than in the case of walls. The most suitable insulating material for these purposes is lightweight and non-combustible fiberglass

Ceiling insulation works in the bath produced as follows:

canvases or mats made of fiberglass are laid out on the boards of the ceiling;

How to insulate a steam room

Thermal insulation of the steam room brick bath in general, it differs little from the creation of thermal insulation in the rest of the premises of the bath. The differences consist only in the need for additional thermal insulation of the ceiling inside the steam room, as well as in the use of metal foil both on the ceiling and on the walls.

Procedure for insulating the ceiling in the steam room will be next.

The entire surface of the ceiling is covered with roll paper. At the joints, you need to create overlaps of 10-20 cm.

In the same way, the foil is attached to the wall surfaces in the steam room.

As a cladding material in a steam room, it is best to use pine lining... Pine is excellently resistant to both high temperatures and hot steam from the stove. In addition, due to the presence of a certain amount of resins, distillation from pine will give the atmosphere of the steam room a special aroma.

In general, the process of warming a brick bath does not cause any particular difficulties even for craftsmen without extensive experience in such work.

Internal insulation of the walls of the bath

Consider options for how to insulate brick bath from the inside.

Option 1. Create a second wall

Most often, second walls are erected inside the brick box. The material is a dozen timber, which itself is a warm material and does not emit harmful components when heated.

Mount the cake as follows:

A crate is stuffed onto a brick.
A waterproofing film is fixed along the crate.
Timber walls are mounted.
A second crate is stuffed over them.
The bar is covered with fiberglass, fixing it to the crate with a stapler. Fiberglass is not stretched between the battens of the lathing, but an overlap is made, so that then it is easy to place a heater.
Insulation plates are inserted into the spans between the crate.
To protect the heat insulator from internal steam, it is covered with foil or vapor barrier film on top.
The last is the lining.

Foil is attached to the crate construction stapler without pulling tightly

Regardless of the type of insulation, its thickness should be at least 10 cm. To insulate the bath, heat insulators are chosen that will not emit harmful substances at hot temperatures. For this, basalt or fiberglass heaters are optimal, which are not afraid of moisture. If there is a desire to close the bar with expanded polystyrene materials, then it is better to choose penoplex. It has a higher resistance to high temperatures than foam, and in the event of a fire, this insulation tends to self-extinguish. But do not insulate the steam room in a brick bath with polystyrene. With strong heating (over 100 degrees), they will begin to char and release toxins. For the steam room, you should take only basalt materials.

Option 2. Double layer of insulation

Considering options for how to insulate a brick bath, you can stop at creating a double layer of insulation. Its difference from the 1st is that instead of timber walls an additional 10 cm insulation is laid in the crate.

The wall cake will look like this:

Brick.
Waterproofing.
Lathing.
Insulation.
Waterproofing.
Second crate.
Fiberglass.
Insulation.
Vapor barrier.
Lining.

Cake thickness internal insulation will be about 22 cm.

When selecting insulation, line the first layer (closer to the brick) with extruded polystyrene foam. He is not afraid of moisture, therefore, external vapors that have got through the brick are not dangerous for him. Choose the second, inner layer of insulation, taking into account the room in which you will lay. In all rooms, except for the steam room, it is worth covering it with foil-covered penoplex. This foam is coated on one side with a thin layer of foil that will simultaneously reflect infrared rays and act as a barrier to internal vapors.

Foiled materials are joined together using aluminum tape

For a steam room, it is better to choose a basalt insulation, and close it on top with a special foil for baths. In this way, you will avoid the release of harmful substances when the room is heated strongly. Joints in foil-lined insulation and foil are sealed with special aluminum tape.

Material features

Penoplex is a foamed polymer made by extrusion from polystyrene general purpose... Modern equipment makes it possible to produce material with an ordered structure in which small gas bubbles are evenly distributed. Such isolated and completely closed microscopic cavities are about 0.1-0.2 mm in size. The reagent for foaming is light types of freon with the introduction of carbon dioxide into them.

Penoplex is a foamed polymer made by extrusion from general purpose polystyrene

By its nature, penoplex is chemically inert, which excludes oxidation or decay. The main goal of the development of this material is to provide high thermal insulation capabilities with low water absorption and very high compressive strength. An important characteristic is good manufacturability, i.e. it is easy to cut and bend, which allows it to be used in hard-to-reach places.

As is known, thermal insulation characteristics any foam or porous material is sharply reduced under the influence of moisture, which is absolutely not characteristic of penoplex. A slight water absorption by the material is observed only for the first 7-8 days, when moisture fills the cells located at the surface. Subsequently, the penetration of water stops, and the initial saturation has little effect on the thermal insulation capabilities of the product.

Moreover, it should be noted that it is impermeable to steam, which is very important for bathing conditions.

Basic form of slab production: width 60 cm and thickness from 2 to 15 cm

The material is divided into 3 groups:

Penoplexstandard.
Penoplex 45.

Its types are different specific gravity, mechanical strength and heat resistance. Insulation of the floor in the bath with penoplex is carried out by the first 2 types of material.

On a note! Penoplex 45 has increased mechanical strength and is intended for floors where significant stress and vibration are possible.

The main form of production of the slab: a width of 60 cm and a thickness of 2 to 15 cm. Sheets with a thickness of 10-12 cm are very popular. The standard length of the slabs is 120 and 240 cm, in special cases material with a length of 4 or 4.5 m can be used.

How to insulate a steam room in a brick bath

Novice builders mistakenly assume that the construction of a bath ends with the construction of walls and the installation of a stove. But in order for the steam room to be warm, quickly heat up and slowly cool down, it must be modernized - insulated. Many people say that a brick building does not need additional sealing due to the wonderful properties of brick, but this is nothing more than a myth. A well-insulated sauna is much warmer from the inside.

The whole process consists of three main phases of insulation:

It is in this sequence that we will consider all the insulation of a steam room in a brick bath.

We insulate the floor

To make the floor warm, it is necessary to carry out heat, steam, waterproofing

It is important to observe two fundamental rules here:. When choosing a heater, pay attention to its properties.

It should let steam through, not create a greenhouse effect. It will be very uncomfortable in such a bath.

When choosing a heater, pay attention to its properties. It should let steam through, not create a greenhouse effect. It will be very uncomfortable in such a bath.
Lay all layers of insulation tightly to each other, avoiding the appearance of even minor gaps and holes.

We will not torment you with long arguments about possible insulation, we will say right away that foam is an ideal option for warming a foundation. It is durable and allows you to increase the life and performance of the base. To protect against high humidity expanded clay is most often used. This material does an excellent job with its "responsibilities" and significantly reduces costs. Conscientious waterproofing cannot be thin, the layer thickness should be 1.5-2 times greater than the wall.

The procedure for performing thermal insulation:

we lay the gyro-insulating layer;
we lay thick foam sheets, clearly observing the dimension;
we reinforce and tighten the floor with fill;
we lay the floor.

Now all that remains is to wait until the solution sets and you can proceed to the next stage.

We insulate the walls

To make the process not troublesome and enjoyable, you need to take care of this at the construction stage. A cobbled crate is installed in the steam room, on which the heat material is fixed. Thus, you will protect the insulation from deformation and slipping during operation. If you decide to opt for the free-flowing option, then do not forget to fill up the cracks.

In order for the bath to be really warm, carry out the thermal insulation in several passes, allowing the limestone solution to grab and dry. If you have opted for slabs, then place them between the trim and the wall. Most often, penotherm is used for insulation inside. One of its sides is covered with foil, which reflects heat and heats up the bath much faster. In addition, foil insulation has undeniable advantages... It can withstand high temperatures and does not collapse from sudden changes, does not allow moisture to pass through.

If finances are limited or you could not find this material, then you can stop at mineral wool. But the savings here are false, since in addition to cotton wool, you will have to spend money on the purchase of waterproofing material.

After that, we make wall cladding inside the bath. A natural material is used as a cladding - wood.

We insulate the ceiling

Physical processes force a very careful approach to the thermal insulation of the ceiling. Since hot air is lighter and rises to the top, it must not be allowed to escape from the ceiling cracks. There is no strong difference between the insulation of the ceiling and the walls, the only thing that needs to be done more carefully and use together both bulk and tiled material. Use the same material for the cladding as for the walls. The uniform style of the room will create a cozy atmosphere.

Thermal insulation of the floor in the bath

The bath floor is usually made of wooden board or concrete. The board is used in relatively dry rooms. Concrete - in the washroom and in the steam room. Floor insulation technology depends on the base material.

For insulation of a concrete floor, expanded clay (3-5 mm), extruded polystyrene or boiler slag are most often used. The upper level of the floor at the end of the insulation work is understood to be 15-20 cm. The work is carried out in the following order.

The concrete base must be leveled and cleaned of debris and dust. Next, an adhesive is applied to the surface in 2-3 layers. Most often, special mastics are used for this, for example, rubber concrete. A waterproofing agent is laid on the adhesive - high-strength polyethylene or roofing material.

After the waterproofer is set, the insulation begins to be laid. On top of it, an adhesive is again applied, on which the waterproofing agent is laid. The last layer- reinforced concrete screed, at least 30 mm thick. The concrete must be leveled and dried properly. The finishing of such a floor is usually done with ceramic tiles. Under it you can place a warm floor system.

To insulate a wooden floor, you must first remove the old boards. A cranial bar is planted on the remaining beams from below. It must be wrapped with roofing material or heavy-duty polyethylene. A rough floor covering is laid on top of the waterproofer. For this, bulk materials or mineral wool are mainly used. Is it possible to insulate the floor in a bath with isopink? It is possible if the floor is wooden and is installed in a room with a low level of moisture.

A waterproofing material is applied over the insulation. Then the board for the final floor is laid. A plinth is attached to the perimeter of the room. Finishing paintwork in this case it does not apply, since these materials release toxins under the influence of temperature and moisture. If desired, the wooden floor can be covered with special rubberized rugs. They will make the room cozy and will not cause a lot of hassle when cleaning. The floor in the bath is insulated mainly for greater user comfort. The floor insulation has little effect on the overall temperature inside the bath rooms.

Correction of insulation and ventilation by efflorescence

Efflorescence can be removed with special products.

By themselves, efflorescence on brickwork are not a problem for the load-bearing wall, but they may indicate that the insulation scheme is not working properly, leading to a violation of moisture transfer. V winter period the partial pressure of gases dissolved in water increases. The capillary movement of liquid through the thickness of the brick increases in the direction from heat to cold. Internal condensation and capillary flow cause waterlogging of the layer located 2 - 3 cm from the outer surface of the wall.

At subzero temperatures, waterlogging is not striking due to freezing of bricks from the street side. In spring, the condensate accumulated over the winter begins to vigorously stand out on the surface, carrying water-soluble salts with it.

If efflorescence is equally formed on all walls, then the reasons may lie in the quality of a brick, in the composition of the solution, in violation of the masonry technology. However, in the case of localization of salts on individual walls of the bath and their sections, it makes sense to revise the insulating sandwich, provided that the influence of an unsuccessful ebb design on the process is excluded. This must be done in order to level the operating mode along the entire bearing perimeter in order to increase the resource of the building.

On a wall with intense efflorescence:

Add foil insulation

add foil insulation, if it has not been installed earlier, or eliminate possible defects in this layer (for example, poor-quality sealing of joints);
provide a ventilated gap between the vapor barrier and the main thermal insulation;
add an exhaust vent.

Warming options

Let's make a reservation right away that there is a large number of different ways, where different heat-insulating, and not only, materials are used. Let's consider the main options that you can do yourself.

Option number 1

This method is considered by the master to be the simplest, so it will not be possible to do it yourself. big problem... It is based on the process of wall insulation with heat-insulating materials, which fit into the crate or without it. Here is the sequence for this process:

The inner surfaces of the walls must be waterproofed. To do this, they must be leveled with plaster or putty, and after drying, apply a coating waterproofing. We recommend using bitumen-based mastics. Rarely when roll material is used for these purposes.
Next, a crate of wooden beams is stuffed onto the walls, which are pre-treated with an antiseptic solution.
Now, insulation is laid between the elements of the crate.

Please note that in this case, the thickness of the insulation and the width of the timber must be the same.

After that, a vapor barrier membrane is stretched right along the crate. It is attached to wooden elements with metal staples. Therefore, you will need to purchase a stapler.
And already on the very crate, the lining is mounted.

Often, experts use double insulation walls, while installing two battens with insulation 100 mm thick. The process is more complicated, but it will not be difficult to do it yourself.

If penoplex is used as a heater, then there is no need to install hydro and vapor barrier layers. But it is better not to give up the crate. This is the base on which the lining will be mounted.

Option number 2

The second way to insulate a brick bath is to build another wall near the walls, only a wooden one with insulating layer... For this, a frame made of wooden slats is installed on a brick.

Its elements can be laid horizontally or vertically. Everyone decides for himself. But remember that the elements of the wall itself will be laid perpendicular to the elements of the frame:

Now it is stretched and fastened along the crate waterproofing membrane.
Then the second wall is built. It is most often erected from wooden beams with a section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. Please note that the elements of the new wall must fit tightly to each other. This thickness wooden wall is already an excellent indicator of thermal insulation.
But now you need to decide whether it is worth using additional insulation or not. If yes, then by new wall the crate is going, where the heat insulator is laid. A vapor barrier or foil roll material is installed on top of the lathing. If there is no need for insulation, then the crate is mounted anyway, only from slats of small thickness. A waterproofing material is stretched on top of the frame.
AND final stage- wall decoration with clapboard.

Advice! The bathhouse has a fairly large number of different rooms that are purely for their purpose. So, in all rooms except the steam room, any heat-insulating materials can be used as insulation. In a steam room, insulation with a foil layer cannot be used.

Ceiling thermal protection procedure

It is impossible to eliminate heat loss in bath rooms without insulation of the ceiling in them

This is especially important when they are located in a one-story building.

The sequence of work when arranging thermal protection of the ceiling in the bath is as follows:

Fiberglass is laid on top of the ceiling, placing overlapping strips of material. They are connected to each other using scotch tape or adhesive tape.
A solution mixed from clay, chopped straw and river sand is laid on top of the insulation. The thickness of this layer should be approximately 30 centimeters.
On clay mortar a layer of foam is laid, and then poured on top of it cement mix thickness of about 10 centimeters.
To improve the thermal insulation performance of the bathhouse structure, it can be added to the mass of cement foam crumb, observing a ratio of 1: 3, or even better 1: 4.
Lathing beams are attached to the rough surface of the ceiling from the inside, placing basalt wool in the slabs between them.
A foil film is laid on top of the heat-insulating product, and on top it is sheathed with clapboard, observing a 10-mm gap between the elements.

Subject to the correct implementation of the insulation of the room from the inside, during its operation, the loss of thermal energy will be minimized, which means that a visit to the bath will bring maximum pleasure.

As a general rule, the bath is insulated from the inside.

During the construction of residential buildings, the main thermal insulation is mounted outside, but during the construction of a bath, the situation is exactly the opposite. And the whole point is that the bath is used (heated) periodically, while the house is heated almost all year round.

Therefore, for the bath, it becomes important to preserve the generated internal heat given off by the stove, without transferring it outside.

If you make external insulation, then first the constructions of the structure (walls, floor, ceiling) will warm up, and after they are heated, the air inside the room will begin to warm. In this case, it will take a very long time to heat the bath, which in turn entails an increased consumption of firewood. Read more about insulating a bath from the inside.

Scheme

Do-it-yourself bath insulation outside (if you still decide)

If you think that internal insulation will not be enough, or you just want to extend the bath's life as much as possible, then you can also do external thermal insulation.
External insulation will increase the retention time of the high temperature inside the bath and reduce the cost of maintaining it.

Due to the fact that finishing (finishing) materials will be required when installing external thermal insulation, you will additionally protect your building from the effects of natural phenomena: fog, rain and snow. That protects the bath from excessive moisture and prolongs its service life.

The material from which the bathhouse is built affects the choice of insulation and the nature of the upcoming work.

Baths, erected from a log (calibrated or ordinary), require meticulous processing (caulking) of all cracks and cracks. To do this, you can use: sphagnum, jute or tow, flax as natural and eco-friendly materials, or you can use a special wood sealant.

If the material of the walls is a timber, then such a bath requires quite serious insulation: for example, with mineral wool on a frame made of slats, using wind and steam protection and subsequent finishing (lining, siding, block house, etc.).

Brick baths or baths made of foam or cinder blocks, foam concrete, etc., must be insulated without fail. All of these materials have high thermal conductivity, which can cause high heat losses in cold climates.

According to the requirements for insulation, it is similar to baths from a bar, but the final wall thickness should be at least 80 cm.It can also be used as a heater expanded polystyrene plates, foam or foam glass.

Insulation of a brick bath from the inside

How to insulate the walls of a brick bath from the inside? Inner wall surface It is most effective to insulate a brick bath with the help of natural heat-insulating materials that perfectly retain heat, but do not emit any harmful substances at high temperatures. In particular, sheets based on mineral wool, produced in the form of rolls or individual mats, are excellent for these purposes.

The only one lack of such insulation- the ability to absorb moisture, which, by definition, is always abundant in any bath. Therefore, the heat-protective layer will require additional waterproofing, which protects the mineral wool from steam and water.

Insulation installation procedure on the inner walls will be as follows:

a supporting frame is being erected on a brick wall from wooden slats;
insulating material is laid in the resulting cells. In addition to mineral wool, more modern materials... For example, foil-clad foam is not only completely insensitive to moisture and temperatures of several hundred degrees, but due to the shiny surface of the foil, it is able to reflect heat back into the bathhouse;
the entire structure is covered with a layer of waterproofing (polyethylene, foil, etc. To ensure complete moisture resistance, the waterproofing material should be laid with an overlap of 10-20 cm. To give the joints additional strength, all joints should be fixed with thin and flat wooden slats.

In order to improve aesthetics, thermal insulation is usually not left open, but closed wooden clapboard.

Beyond the walls internal thermal insulation brick bath should include and measures to reduce heat loss through floors... The sequence of actions here will be as follows:

a layer of vapor barrier is laid on the subfloor cleaned of dust and dirt;
heat-insulating mats are lined and fixed in one way or another;
a layer of waterproofing is laid;
a finishing floor is equipped with the widest boards with a thickness of at least 40 mm.

It is very important to consider the material from which the sub-floor is made. If it is formed by boards, then they will need to be pre-treated with a means to prevent wood decay.
... The concrete sub-floor itself is capable of playing the role of thermal insulation.

Therefore, even at the stage of its arrangement, one should take care of imparting heat-saving properties. This is achieved by the following flooring technology:

The concrete sub-floor itself is capable of playing the role of thermal insulation. Therefore, even at the stage of its arrangement, one should take care of imparting heat-saving properties. This is achieved by the following flooring technology:

a layer of sand about 5-10 cm thick is poured into the pit;
a solid heat insulator (foam) is laid;
a mixture of cement, sand and crumbled foam is poured;
overlapping sheets of roofing material;
reinforcing mesh is lined;
a concrete solution is poured with the addition of fine crushed stone;
at a height of 10-20 cm, a finishing plank floor is created.

The resulting construction is advantageous in that it is ventilated... And this means a significant increase in the service life of both the finished floor and the heat-insulating concrete base under him.

How to insulate the floor in a bath? You will find out the answer to this question by reading this article.

And in this article, read about warming the roof of a bath.

Floor insulation

A brick bathhouse with its thoroughness suggests that the owner does not intend to limit himself to warm days in order to steam in it. And this means that of all types of floors at his disposal only:

concrete;
dry wooden;
pouring onto a concrete screed.

They all need insulation, just a little differently.

Dry wood floor consists of a rough and a finish, between which there is a gap for the height of the floor beams. This space is filled with insulation. Foamed polystyrene foam will be the best - it is not afraid of moisture. Mineral wool and expanded clay need a hydro-barrier before laying the finished floor. It is also possible to insulate with ecowool and Aisinine foam. Alternatively, you can fill up the space under the sub-floor with expanded clay, but for this you need to waterproof the soil in advance.

Concrete floor on the ground or concrete screed under the pouring floor are insulated in the same way:

The soil is removed by half a meter.
The future water runoff is laid - a pit / ladder and pipes to the outside.
Fill in 15 cm of gravel and ram it.
Then 35 cm of sand and rammed.
This "pillow" is hermetically sealed with roofing material.
A layer of insulation is laid: mineral wool, expanded clay, slag, felt with tar.
It closes with a hydro-barrier if the insulation is weeping.
Reinforcing mesh is laid.
A concrete screed is poured with the desired slope towards the drain.

Find out more:

Floor insulation

The floors in the bath are made of wood or concrete. The technology for applying insulation does not have large differences depending on the material of manufacture of the floor.

The only thing with the device concrete structure you need to fill in an increased layer of expanded clay. At the same time, its thickness is usually compared with the width of the walls, and it is poured about twice as thick a layer.

If floor insulation is carried out on the ground (in the case of strip foundation), then you need to do the following:

Treat the walls with a waterproofing agent;
Pour sand 10 cm thick, spill it with water and tamp;
Cover this layer with roofing felt with an overlap of 15 cm on the walls.

And then fill in expanded clay.

Floor insulation scheme in a brick bath

Ceiling insulation

Applying an insulating layer to a ceiling is essentially the same as applying an insulation layer to a wall. You just need to keep in mind some of the features. As the hot air rushes upward, the insulation layer becomes thicker than on the walls. This is usually achieved by pouring on top of the ceiling covering, and a foil sheet and facing material are laid inside.

How to insulate the floor

Significant heat loss in the bath occurs not only through the ceiling and walls, but also through the floor, especially when the bath is used in the cold season - in winter, autumn, early spring.

To figure out how and what is the best way to insulate the floor in the bath, you should remember that the order of laying the floor cake must be strictly observed. The earthen floor must be leveled, cleaned of debris and foreign objects and leveled. A concrete screed must be poured onto the prepared surface.

On the set concrete, you need to lay a layer of roll waterproofing. It can be roofing material or plastic wrap.

Further, the entire surface is laid out with a layer of heat insulator. You can use both sheet and linen material. Then roofing material or polyethylene is re-laid. The final layer is a concrete screed.

Laying all layers of the floor cake must be done carefully.

Especially you need to pay attention to the tightness of each layer - this will preserve the integrity of all materials. Correctly carried out internal insulation will create comfortable conditions for the correct use of the bath and preservation of heat

Material

Building materials can be divided into structural (steel, concrete, brick, stone) and heat-insulating materials, which have low strength and specific gravity, but they perfectly retain heat.

Thermal conductivity and specific gravity are interrelated.

That is why almost all heat insulators have a porous structure, float in water and are often combustible.

Insulation of the walls of a brick bath from the inside can be carried out with any heat insulators that are allowed for use in internal work.

The choice of material is carried out necessarily before insulating a brick bath. The required material is indicated in the project.

Here is an approximate list of them:

Styrofoam (foamed drinking styrene). It is moisture resistant, which makes it well suited for a bath, its thermal conductivity is very low. Specific gravity about 25 kg cubic meters. The main disadvantage is a fire hazardous and non-ecological material;
Mineral wool. It is rarely used in saunas, since even after a single wetting it irreversibly “shrinks” in volume. With good thermal insulation in baths, it can be used. The advantage in combination with brick walls is absolute fire resistance;
Basalt slabs. In many properties they are close to mineral wool. Safer for humans;
Organic insulation: moss, straw, sawdust. Now they are almost not used, but they are often used as a fallback;
Prefabricated organic insulation, such as porous cellulose boards. Their main advantage is environmental friendliness. For a bath, a good option;
PPU foam rubber. Mostly it is used for pipe insulation. In rare cases, houses and baths are insulated with them. It is possible both the use of ready-made elements and PPU spraying from a foam generator;
Other polymer heaters, of which there are many brands: pepoplex, foamed polyethylene, magnesium oxide on acrylic resin;

The insulation can be fireproof, like the rest of the brick bath. How to insulate walls and ceilings is determined by the budget and the overall project. Of all the options for a bath, foam is most often used (only it has excellent moisture resistance) and basalt slabs.

Both materials are available as flat slabs.

For installation on walls, floors and ceilings, a lattice frame is always required.

The insulation itself is fragile, does not clearly hold its shape, and on top of its layer there must be a strong outer surface(for example, bath lining).

The combination of these two layers is provided by the framework. Warming with any plate materials is similar in technology.

This is the installation of slabs cut to the size of the cell of the frame, as well as their glue fixing.

Almost any slabs are attached with glue: foam, basalt, ecowool. The choice of glue is carried out according to the recommendations of the manufacturer of the insulation.

Important! Working with mineral wool, insulation containing fiberglass requires special care. Work in protective equipment, respirator, goggles.

Work with foam and cellulose porous insulation requires compliance with the rules fire safety

Slight dust formation is possible when cutting. Such intensive protection as when working with glass wool is not required.

Work with foam and cellulose porous insulation requires adherence to fire safety rules. Slight dust formation is possible when cutting. Such intensive protection as when working with glass wool is not required.

Advantages and disadvantages of penoplex when used in a bath

Penoplex for bath insulation

Among the main advantages of the material for warming baths are:

Moisture resistance... For a day, a heat insulator plate absorbs less than 0.4% of its volume, and for a month it is capable of absorbing up to 0.6%. Moisture penetrates only into the top layer, the inner filling remains dry, even if the foam sheet is completely immersed in water. Thanks to this factor, the material is not subject to the formation of mold and decay.

Low thermal conductivity... This property is provided by the special structure of the foam. The heat conductivity coefficient is 0.03 W / m and is considered the lowest among heaters.

Strength... Due to the homogeneity of the material, which is achieved by the extrusion method, it is able to withstand significant mechanical stress. With 10% linear information, its strength is 0.2 MPa. In order not to damage its integrity, when insulating the floor, you need to monitor the evenness of the surface.

Vapor tightness... This indicator for penoplex is close to roofing material. Therefore, it is often used to insulate bath rooms in which high humidity is maintained.

Ease... The density of the material is only 25-32 kg / m 3. It is often used for thermal insulation of roofs, since it does not make the structure heavier. Because of this property, it is easy to install.

Easy to install... Penoplex for bath insulation is cut with an ordinary construction or clerical knife. Thermal insulation with its help can be easily done by yourself.

Durability... Some manufacturers provide material warranties for up to 50 years.

Chemical resistance... The heat insulator is not affected by alkalis, water-based paints, saline solutions, alcohol compounds, bleach, ammonia, carbon dioxide, propane, butane, various oils, freons, concrete mixtures. However, it should be borne in mind that under the influence of formaldehyde, diesel fuel, gasoline, acetone, methyl-, ethyl acetate bases, enamel and oil paints, the physical and technical characteristics of the penoplex deteriorate. Some formulations may even dissolve the material.

Soundproofing... After insulating the roof and walls, you will not hear the thud of rain or the hum of a busy highway. The noise protection index is 41 dB.

Resistant to temperature changes and stability... The working temperature of the heat insulator is from -100 to +75 degrees.

As for the shortcomings of the material, it is possible to distinguish the average indicator of flammability and the release of toxic fumes during combustion. For this reason, before thermal insulation, it is treated with special fire-fighting compounds. Some manufacturers offer insulation already impregnated with fire retardants.

The method of thermal insulation of the bath basement with penoplex

The scheme of warming the basement of the bath with penoplex

The basement is the thinner part of the foundation, to which the walls of the structure are attached. Therefore, the durability of the building depends on the quality of its thermal insulation.

In the process, we adhere to the following sequence:

We cover the base with a waterproofing membrane.

We fix on top of acrylic glue a 12-centimeter layer of styrofoam.

We lay the second layer of waterproofing. It will be a kind of drainage.

We attach a geotextile material that acts as a filter.

Fill with a sand-cement screed.

Due to the hydrophobicity of the heat insulator, the steam room will be reliably protected from moisture.

Do-it-yourself steam room insulation in a brick bath

Construction own bath from aerated concrete or timber is currently not so widespread. Modern builders and builders prefer to use ordinary building bricks for the construction of the walls of the bath.

Especially popular for these purposes was the double silicate brick M 150, which in its parameters is practically not inferior to wood.

Bath from sand-lime brick

Thanks to the availability of information on the Internet, everyone can learn how to insulate a brick bath with their own hands, this is not particularly difficult now. The main requirement is to do everything accurately and correctly.

Thermal insulation of brick baths

Building bricks can easily absorb moisture, therefore, when building a bath, it is necessary to avoid contact of bricks with the ground. Before insulating a brick bath, you should decide on the insulation option.

Modern baths are being built today with several thermal insulation options:

baths lined with insulation in the form of slabs;

Mineral wool insulation

air-cushion baths in the wall;

Voids in the wall

baths with a layer of thermal insulation between the outer and inner layers of the walls.

Backfilled wall

With slab insulation

Insulating the walls of a brick bath from the inside is the most common way.

In this case, the order of work is as follows:

holes are drilled in the seams;

wooden plugs are inserted into the holes;

There are even ready-made for sale

a frame made of a metal profile or wooden slats impregnated with an antiseptic is attached to the prepared brick wall;

fastened to the slats of the insulation plate;

cover the insulation with a layer of waterproofing with an overlap, avoiding gaps. Most often, various foil materials are used for these purposes;

carry out the final finishing with clapboard.

Insulation inside the steam room must be not only environmentally friendly, but also capable of withstanding high temperatures in the room.

Using the wrong material can lead to a complete loss of thermal insulation.

Basalt slab fits perfectly

With an air cushion in the wall

This type of insulation is done at the stage of wall construction. A gap of 4-6 cm is left between the inner and outer masonry. Reinforcement is performed every 4-6 rows by laying steel bars with curved edges.

Insulated between the walls

This insulation method is based on the use of well brickwork and backfill.

Work instructions:

carry out masonry, making transverse walls every 3 bricks;

as the masonry rises, fill up the voids between the walls of expanded clay, fine slag or sand with lime and shavings;

after 10-15 cm of insulation filling, it is carefully tamped;

the last layer of backfill is reinforced with a metal mesh;

complete the masonry, performing 3-4 rows of solid brickwork;

if in the future the wall is not plastered, then all the seams are completely filled with mortar. If the wall is to be plastered, the joints should be left 10-15 mm unfilled.

We make the seams even

If you have a lot of bricks with some kind of flaw, then you need to lay them with the good side out.

This will not only improve appearance masonry, but also keep the brick from moisture saturation.

Floor and ceiling insulation

Insulating the brick walls of the bath from the inside is not the only problem. Insulation of the floor and ceiling should be carried out in the same way.

For work with the ceiling, you will need the following materials:

The simplest option for insulating the ceiling is to use a mixture of straw and clay as insulation, which is applied in a thick layer. It should be remembered that the quality of insulation directly depends on the quality of the insulation, so it is not always cheap way the best.

Final finishing

The interior cladding of the steam room is usually made of wood materials. Linden or aspen lining is considered ideal. However, aspen lining eventually loses its pleasant color, although it is famous for its healing properties.

A more practical option is to use pine lining. The price is much lower, and the aroma and benefits are almost the same.

Examples of different types lining

If you made the insulation of a brick bath from the inside correctly, then you will not have a draft or condensation, but only a pleasant aroma of wood and a feeling of comfort.

Everything is ready, you can take a steam bath!

By correctly and accurately completing all the stages of insulation, you can get an excellent bath that will delight you and your friends for a long time.

Insulation of the ceiling of the steam room

You should also pay attention to the insulation of the ceiling of the steam room, so that hot air remains inside the room for as long as possible. In one of the publications we have already touched upon the question of how to properly insulate the ceiling. It is also advisable to choose mineral wool roll or plate materials as a ceiling insulation.

Backfilling of the ceiling with expanded clay is also widely practiced.

When insulating a ceiling, it should be remembered that the greatest fire hazard is a red-hot pipe passing through the ceiling structure, around which it is necessary to arrange reliable insulation from a non-combustible material.

The passageway is called a ceiling cut. As a rule, the node for the passage of the pipe through the ceiling is a container filled with a non-combustible material with a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. How the passage of a pipe through the ceiling looks like is shown in the photo below:

*** As you can see, the insulation of the walls of a brick bath is no more difficult than that of a bath made of logs or from a bar. By following the guidelines in this article, you can enjoy a light steam at any time of the year.

Insulation from the inside is an inevitable event for most types of baths. It allows you to spend less fuel, heat the steam room faster and better. Competently made insulation protects the walls of the bath from fungus, rotting, prolongs its service life. In this article, we will select inexpensive and safe types of thermal insulation, depending on the material of the walls of the bath, and consider how to install them correctly.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside: we select the insulation;
Do-it-yourself bath insulation from the inside: from the ceiling to the floor;
Do-it-yourself insulation of a brick bath from the inside;
Thermal insulation of the bath from the blocks from the inside
Thermal insulation of a wooden bath from the inside

Bath insulation from the inside: materials

Different requirements are imposed on different rooms of the bath, we will focus on the steam room and the washing room, the features of which are high temperature and high humidity. Also, the insulation is selected depending on the material of the walls of the bath.

But, regardless of the material of the walls and the purpose of the room, the insulation should be:

Non-toxic, so as not to cause poisoning under the influence of high temperature;
Not hygroscopic so as not to absorb moisture;
Resistant to high temperatures and steam;
Non-flammable;
Retaining its shape even after several years of extreme exploitation;
Resistant to mold and mildew;
Selling at a reasonable price.

Sauna heaters

Insulation	In what room is used	Note
Natural materials: rolled jute, felt, insulation made of reeds and sawdust, moss, tow, etc.	Dressing room, rest room.	Natural materials ignite at high temperatures and are therefore not suitable for steam rooms and washrooms. But materials from jute and flax are the best insulating materials for a chopped bath. There are excellent modern roll insulation made from natural materials, but they are very expensive, therefore they are practically not used for bath insulation.
Mineral insulation.	They can be used to insulate any room in the bath. Most often they use easy-to-install plate heaters(mats).	They do not rot, serve up to 30 years, are fire-resistant, inexpensive. It is with these materials that most Russian baths are insulated.
Polymer materials	It is not recommended by FORUMHOUSE masters for thermal insulation of the steam room.	Polyfoam is a wonderful heat insulator, but it is flammable, and at high temperatures it releases substances harmful to humans. You cannot use styrofoam in the steam room.... Extruded polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam is considered a safe material (it is used to insulate the bathhouse of Russian polar explorers in Antarctica). But the FORUMHOUSE masters do not recommend using this material in the steam room either.
Heaters based on aluminum foil.	It is used in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations for a specific room.	The principle of operation of such heaters is the effect of a thermos, the reflection of heat from the walls and ceiling due to the foil. Some types of foil-clad heaters are made specifically for steam rooms and other rooms with high temperatures, while others, when the temperature rises, begin to emit harmful substances. Foil in the bath is used as a vapor barrier.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling of the bath from the inside

The bath is insulated from the inside in the following order: ceiling - walls - floor. Most of the heat in the bath goes through the ceiling, therefore

The thickness of the insulation of the ceiling is twice the thickness of the insulation of the walls and is at least 10 cm.

Nomad

We suspend insulation at least 10 cm under the black ceiling. Better basalt wool, glass wool and polystyrene in the steam room. The insulation can be hung on the lacing. Then the foil, the gap along the slats and the lining.

Regardless of the material of the walls of the bath, the ceiling is insulated in the same way.

Foil is used in the insulation of the ceiling.

Insulation of the frame bath from the inside

For insulating a frame bath, roll mineral insulation is most often used.

The thickness of the insulation depends on the type of operation of the bath: if it is supposed to heat it only in the summer, a layer of 5 cm is enough; if you plan to heat the bath all year round, the insulation layer should be 10-15 cm (depending on the climatic zone).

To insulate the walls of a frame bath from the inside:

Insulation is placed in the interbeam space of the structure;
The next layer is vapor barrier (foil);
Ventzazor;
Sheathing.

The photos below show how he insulated his frame bath Nomad. Insulation - basalt wool.

Do-it-yourself bath insulation from the inside: step-by-step instructions.

The foil acts as a vapor barrier, so it is important that even the slightest holes and damage are absent in it, and that all joints are well glued with high-quality tape. The tape is always sold with foil, and its quality must be checked in the store (glue the tape to the foil and try to tear it off).

Do-it-yourself bath insulation from the inside: log house

It would be a tragic mistake to insulate a chopped and well-heated bath from the inside. This is not just meaningless and destructive for the walls, it contradicts the very idea of a chopped bath.

Log cabins are made for two reasons:

To get a classic Russian steam bath, which is heated for a long time and keeps the required level of heat and humidity for a long time. It is the tree that accumulates heat and moisture and gradually "gives up" it. In this case, the bath cannot be sheathed from the inside; you will also have to come to terms with the high consumption of firewood.
For the image. Not a single bathhouse looks as cool on the outside as a chopped one. But I often don't want to waste time and firewood, I want the bathhouse to be heated in an hour, so insulation, vapor barrier and clapboard cladding are done. The blockhouse works only as an external frame, the meaning of the material is lost. In this case, it is cheaper and more correct to build a frame bath.

It so happens that a person gets a ready-made sauna from a log house, and for various reasons it can be cold. Such a bath can be insulated, but only outside.

The cake looks like this:

insulation;
wind protection;
vertical lathing to create a ventilation gap;
external cladding.

And from the inside, you can put foil and sheathe it with clapboard, not forgetting about the ventilation gap.

We put foil on the timber, fasten it with a construction stapler;
We glue ALL joints with foil tape;
We fill vertical slats with a thickness of 1-2 cm;
We fill the lining horizontally, leaving slots at the top and bottom for air circulation.

In a chopped bath, only the floor and ceiling are insulated!

If the ceiling of a chopped bath is made of thick boards, it is not necessary to use insulation, but then the following is poured onto the ceiling in a cold attic:

ash;
sand;
expanded clay (it is preferable that the granules were different sizes);
clay coating.

Insulation from the inside of a brick bath

Brick is not the best suitable material for the construction of a bath, but if there is a brick factory somewhere nearby, then brick baths begin to grow like mushrooms. Due to the high thermal conductivity of bricks, such a bath needs to be insulated without fail. Warming is carried out only from the inside, and to make the bath look cool from the outside, decorative jointing is done.

Typically, the cake of the insulated wall of a brick bath looks like this:

brickwork;
waterproofing,
insulation;
vapor barrier;
sheathing.

Waterproofing between the brickwork and the insulation is optional: if the walls are built correctly and waterproofed from the foundation, they will not dampen. If there is no confidence in the walls, then waterproofing is better done.

Insulation on the brick walls of the bath is attached to the frame.

S4sha FORUMHOUSE Member

We build a frame on the wall from a bar 100x40 with a step in the width of the insulation, lay it with insulation, lay the vapor barrier, sew on 20mm slats and sheathe it with clapboard.

The bathhouse of our user S4sha is laid out in half a brick, but it steams beautifully even at -30. Its walls are insulated like this:

mineral wool;
vapor barrier (in the steam room - foil);
ventilation gap;
lining.

Insulation thickness - 50 mm.

Thermal insulation of the bath from the blocks from the inside

For the construction of a bath, durable and moisture-resistant blocks of expanded clay concrete are preferred. Insulation of such a bath is thought over at the stage of its construction. The most important thing here is to remove the ice block of concrete from the heating circuit. There is a technology promoted by our user ZYBY, which allows you to solve this problem by constructing a frame-wall made of boards indented from the walls of the bath. It is suitable for insulating all stone-walled baths.

To ventilate and dry the space between the frame and the walls, several air vents are made in the walls of the bath, above and below the outside. The vents are closed while people are steaming in the bath, the rest of the time they are open to dry.

Insulation cake for the steam room and washing room using this technology:

concrete wall with air vents;
insulation for the frame-wall (with a cover from the concrete wall);
frame-wall;
foil;
finishing with a 50th unedged board (aspen, linden or cedar) to get solid wood in the steam room.

With this approach, you will not have to heat the ice walls. And the insulation will dry out between vapors.

But many owners of a bathhouse made of blocks traditionally insulate it from the inside:

concrete wall;
insulation (attached to the frame);
foil;
ventilation gap;
lining.

Thermal insulation of a bath from expanded clay concrete blocks from the inside.

Such a bath needs insulation outside as well.

Thermal insulation of the floor in the bath

The precious bath heat is also escaping through the floor, so it also needs to be insulated. To insulate the floor in the bath, it is recommended to use expanded clay, as the lightest and most environmentally friendly material.

Expanded clay is poured between the layers of the concrete floor as follows:

the first layer of concrete is poured;
wait for it to completely freeze;
expanded clay is poured (layer thickness - 10 cm);
install a reinforced lattice.
a layer of concrete is poured;
make a cement-sand screed.

Summarizing

Nice bath - warm bath... And in order for it to warm up well to the desired temperature, it is necessary to choose the right thermal insulation and insulate all structural elements.

Also, in the bath, they insulate from the inside:

Windows, doors and all openings - natural sealants;
The outer door is made with good natural materials.

At FORUMHOUSE questions are discussed in detail, discussed separately. Find out how to do it right outside. Read our article on. Meet our users and find the answer to any question. Watch our video on how to build a complete bath complex.

The established traditions, the health-improving result of bath procedures, the method of spending leisure time - this is just a small list of arguments in favor of your bath. However, someone may have a question, is it necessary to insulate it, because you have to heat it irregularly, once a week?

The answer is obvious, since when arranging this building, homeowners often face such a problem as slow heating and rapid cooling of the bath departments. To figure out how to insulate a brick bath inside, you need to know the parameters of the building material from which the walls are laid. For thermal insulation of the bath, it is recommended to insulate brick partitions, ceiling and floor inside and outside the building.

Brickwork with insulation inside

Features of thermal insulation

If we compare bricks with other materials from which walls are mounted, for example, with wood or foam concrete, then, of course, brick walls are more heat-conducting. Therefore, you need to know how to properly insulate a steam room in a brick bath. The main layer is made of heat-insulating plates, and the additional layer is made of rolled material with a foil layer coating. This thermal protection perfectly reflects infrared radiation and protects the insulation from wet evaporation.

To insulate and waterproof a brick bath, you need to start doing this already during construction wall structures... They absorb moisture well, therefore, the walls should not come into contact with the ground, for which the base is protected with roofing material.

The procedure for insulating the partitions of the bath section practically does not stand out from the thermal insulation of other rooms.

But there are still some features:

Before the walls are insulated, the windows are insulated first. Why use a sealant to fill all the voids between window block and a wall.
Fastening of the insulating material is carried out either with the help of special glue or by means of an umbrella dowel. Metal fastening material in these buildings is allowed to be used, but on condition that it will not be possible to contact with it.
In the case of an uneven surface, it will be necessary to first level them by plastering or applying drywall. To make sure that the wall is defective, it is enough to pull the fishing line and if the difference is greater than the thickness of the insulation, then the alignment of the structures is necessary.

Brick is a special material that, without proper insulation, cannot store a high temperature for a long time, so you need to correctly, following all the recommendations, insulate a steam room in a brick bath. So that after installing thermal insulation in the steam room, the temperature can rise quickly and keep warm for a long time.

Thermal insulation scheme

Materials and tools

Now on the market big choice heaters and it must be remembered that bath procedures will bring a healing effect only when natural products are used inside the bath. In this case, the requirements for heat-insulating products are put forward as follows:

Environmentally friendly insulation. At elevated temperatures and high humidity insulation can emit toxic substances. Therefore, before insulating a bath, this indicator must be taken very carefully;
Hydroscopicity. The insulation should not get wet during operation;
Thermal conductivity. The lower the coefficient of this material, the less heat passes this product through itself for a certain period of time;
Biological inertness. There should be no impact of harmful impurities on the human body;
Fire safety;
The ability to maintain its shape;
Low cost and easy installation.

Comparison of heaters for different parameters

To understand which insulation is best for a bath, you need to know their parameters. Let's take a closer look.

Organic insulation

For a long time, this material has been used to keep warm in a Russian bath. The indisputable advantage of this insulation is its naturalness and availability. But there are also many disadvantages:

Fire hazard;
High hydroscopicity;
Difficulty in application;
Rodent susceptibility.

In this regard, the use of organic insulation goes into oblivion and is used very rarely.

Semi-organic thermal insulation materials

In these natural products, synthetic or adhesives are used during manufacturing.

These include:

Reed slabs;
Peat slabs.

Such insulating materials may well be used for insulating the outside of the bath with additional protection from precipitation, but it is unacceptable to use them from the inside on the walls of the steam rooms.

Organic insulation

Synthetic insulation

These goods are manufactured in a production environment and are divided into two types:

Polymers. Among them are polystyrene, expanded polystyrene.
Polyurethane foam.

It is impossible to insulate the sauna inside, especially in the steam room, with such material, since foam at high temperatures emits harmful substance- styrene. However, the outside for thermal insulation of the building is ideal.

Penoizol. It is a foil-clad thermal insulation material used in the twin ward. It is an exception to the range of polymeric materials due to its reflective properties.

Foil insulation

Mineral wool. This group includes basalt wool and glass wool. Their advantage is fire safety and resistance to thermal insulation. The disadvantages include high hydroscopicity, which necessitates the use of films.

Basalt wool is environmentally friendly pure material, which is recommended for use in steam rooms and saunas. Having chosen a suitable insulation, you need to purchase related materials, as well as prepare a tool.

On a note! For cladding, it is advisable to use alder or linden boards. Wood of such species is impervious to water and neutral to high temperatures.

If it is planned to make a concrete screed for the floor, then the list of materials will increase, including the following products:

Reinforcement mesh;
Composition for filling screed (sand, water, cement);
Damper tape;
Lighthouses.

For the external filling of the ceiling, you will need expanded clay and polyurethane powder.

Tool

From the tool you need to prepare:

A circular saw;
Perforator;
Level;
Hacksaw;
Fasteners (nails, screws).

Insulation materials and tools

When installing the facing material, the heads of the nails and self-tapping screws must be deepened inside the boards in order to avoid burns from accidental touching during bathing procedures.

External and internal thermal insulation

Before you start insulating a brick bath inside with your own hands, you need to prepare the surfaces: fill up the cracks, cover the wooden products with an antiseptic.

Then you should follow the steps step by step:

Step # 1. Saw the beams and make the lathing with a step slightly less than the width of the insulation, and then attach it to the brick wall, having previously drilled the holes with a puncher (the cross-section of the bar must correspond to the thickness of the insulation).
Step number 2. Place the slabs in the prepared cells.
Step number 3. Apply a vapor barrier film on top. It must be laid with a start of 5 cm on each side. As a rule, a foil covering is used in the steam room. The waterproofing sheet at the joints must be sealed with aluminum tape for better tightness. And also close up the joints between the timber and the insulation, while grabbing at least 5 cm from the side of the insulation.
Step number 4. To better preserve the vapor barrier and give a ventilation gap, a frame of 20 mm thick slats is mounted on top of it under the lining. It is recommended to do it with the vertical arrangement of the strips so that in the future the condensate can drain freely between the facing and vapor barrier material.
Step number 5. Facing with clapboard or simple planed boards (while they are attached to the crate in a horizontal position). Attach the cladding material in such a way as not to damage the vapor barrier.

Insulation of a brick bath

Attention! The procedure for sealing the joints between the vapor barrier layers and the joints of the insulation with the timber is very important - the penetration of moisture into the insulation depends on it.

Floor insulation

The floors in the bath are made of wood or concrete. The technology for applying insulation does not have large differences depending on the material of manufacture of the floor.

The only thing is that when installing a concrete structure, you need to pour an increased layer of expanded clay. At the same time, its thickness is usually compared with the width of the walls, and it is poured about twice as thick a layer.

If (in the case of a strip foundation), then you need to do the following:

Treat the walls with a waterproofing agent;
Pour sand 10 cm thick, spill it with water and tamp;
Cover this layer with roofing felt with an overlap of 15 cm on the walls.

And then fill in expanded clay.

Floor insulation scheme in a brick bath

Ceiling insulation

Bath insulation outside

It is imperative to insulate a brick bathhouse, since this wall material has a high thermal conductivity. In this regard, it takes a long time to warm up the room without external insulation, and there will be an increased fuel consumption.

The scheme of overlaying an insulating layer is standard:

Lathing;
Insulation;
Facing.

Of the materials for external thermal insulation, you can use moss, reed mats, glass wool, polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene, foamed glass and other organic and synthetic insulation.

For cladding, different finishing materials or siding are used. And you can also cover the outside with plaster, if the insulation layer has been applied foam boards... Here, a mesh is applied on top of this material, primed and then plastered on the walls.

Brick wall insulation scheme outside

Major mistakes

In the steam room, the temperature reaches 95 degrees, and it must be kept for such a long time - this is the purpose of the Russian bath. But sometimes, during the construction and improvement of this building, mistakes are made that can radically affect the correct functioning of the bath.
Here are the most common ones:

Mistake number 1. When erecting brick walls, the seam joints are not completely sealed, and as a result, a powerful cold bridge is created from all unfilled wall seams. Sometimes it almost completely negates the wall insulation.

Mistake number 2. Facing boards are stuffed directly onto the lathing of the insulation. This, firstly, violates the integrity of the vapor barrier layer. Secondly, there is no guaranteed gap between the skin and the reflective canvas. In both cases, this threatens moisture penetration, wetting of the insulation and the appearance of mold on the crate.

Mistake number 3. The cladding material is attached with nails or screws with shallow heads, which can cause burns as a result of contact with them.

If, when insulating a brick bath, you follow the entire technology of this process and avoid the listed mistakes, then the procedures carried out in the bath will really be healing and strengthening your body.

External or internal insulation of the bath is necessary. This reduces fuel consumption and slows down the cooling of indoor air. If the structure is not insulated, then it will take several times longer to heat the steam room to the desired temperature.

We insulate the bath with our own hands

Before building a building, it is necessary to calculate the means and forces for thermal insulation. It is best if the insulation process begins during construction, more precisely, from laying the foundation.

Basic requirements for materials for bath insulation

Cheap solutions (impregnation, septic tanks) will not perform the role of good thermal insulation. Of course, moisture protection is necessary in any case, but this is a separate task. It is necessary to insulate the premises of the bath separately, using materials specially created for this. It is customary to pay the most attention to the inside of the washroom and steam room. The selection of insulation and thermal insulation is done with the expectation of a rough building material.

One of the most important requirements for insulation materials is non-toxicity. Because in the bath, under the influence of temperatures, toxic materials can easily cause poisoning. Non-hygroscopicity is also important; the insulation should in no case absorb moisture.

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When choosing a specific material, you need to rely on the following characteristics:

resistance to steam and high temperatures;
good fire-fighting properties;
environmental friendliness;
low hygroscopicity;
the ability to maintain shape for a long period.

Types of heaters for a bath

All presented on construction markets heaters are divided into three conditional groups:

Of course, even 50-60 years ago, only natural materials were used, which were brought from the nearby forests. This is foam, tow or moss. Today, these are already partly elite types of insulation, they cost serious money due to the need for manual collection. Many fans of natural materials insulate their buildings with rolled jute felt or tow. Such material can be purchased at hardware stores. With regard to moss, there are conflicting opinions regarding its use. They say that moss is not an ideal material for insulation, because it provokes the growth of mold or mildew. However, the moss itself does not have such properties; most likely, the fungus is formed due to improper cutting of a wooden structure or poor ventilation.

How to work with different types of buildings

The installation procedure and the required amount of work depend on the material from which the bath is built.

Insulation of log cabins

When working with a bar or log, you need to take into account the time for shrinkage, which can be 10 cm m more. Plus, gaps form between the crowns of such buildings, and it is in them that cold air blows in. It is best to insulate a log house or an assembly from a bar with jute fiber.

This material does not rot and has excellent thermal conductivity. Jute itself is a very fragile material, so manufacturers try to add flax fibers to it. But if friable material is already available, classic caulking can be performed. There will be less work, and the building will probably retain more heat.

If it is decided to create a bathhouse from wood, then the insulation is laid during construction. It is better to isolate all problematic parts of the log house in the process.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

Thermal insulation of buildings made of bricks or foam blocks

If log cabins are insulated in a primitive way, then you will have to work hard with masonry. And there are more financial investments specifically for work with insulation. Additional thermal insulation is required, otherwise a well-heated room will cool down in hours. Better to work on materials than stock up on fuel the rest of the time.

A widespread and proven method is a hinged ventilated facade. The working process does not take place from the inside, but from the outside of the bath. It is necessary to fix the layers of insulation to the walls, and sheathe the top with siding or clapboard. In the interval between the layers, a space is formed, filled with air, due to which condensation will not form on the walls and rot and dampness will not follow.

The width of the frame for the ventilated facade is made greater than the thickness of the insulation, therefore, an air gap forms inside, preventing the formation of condensation

For a brick building, the following trick is often practiced: a steam room is made of wood indoors. Brick absorbs heat for a very long time, so it is easier to warm a small room in a steam room in a natural way if you use a small frame.

A 10x10 beam and a crate are enough. The process of insulating such an impromptu steam room inside a large bath is simple:

You can make it even easier: do not use a timber, but instead immediately fix the insulation on the frame. In this case, an additional layer of waterproofing will be required.

Calculation and selection of materials and tools

We insulate all surfaces of the steam room, washroom and dressing room. And for this you will need:

Roll paper (for ceiling and walls).
Bar-rail (5x5, for installation of insulation on the ceiling and walls).
Foil.
Insulating tape.
Self-tapping screws.
Aluminum adhesive tape.
Insulation, calculated according to the area of walls, ceilings and floors.

Of the tools you will need:

screwdriver;
level and plumb line.

Do-it-yourself bath insulation

Any stages of warming are always performed according to the golden rule - they start from the ceiling and finish with the floors.

Ceiling insulation

Before starting work with the ceiling, you need to understand that in the steam room you need 2 times more material. After all, we are not working on a sauna, but on a Russian bath, where the steam should stay as long as possible.

The technology is as follows:

We cover the entire surface of the ceiling with overlapping roll paper.
We fix the bars on top of the paper, insulation will already lie between them.
We cover it all with foil. It will become a normal, safe isolation ward. But it is necessary to mount the foil without saving. It is important that all connections are closed.
A layer of foil reflects heat, so the use of such a material for a bath is necessary
All joints on the foil are glued with aluminum tape. Usually, the foil for insulation comes with the material.
Fasten the edges and joints with several layers of adhesive tape. We check our work for leaks. If there is not enough money for such a heater, then the foil is sometimes replaced with cardboard or thick paper without paint.
Next, we mount the layers of insulation on the foil between the closed bars.
On the ceiling, it is better to lay the insulation in two or three layers with overlapping joints
We close the front part of the ceiling with clapboard under a tree. This material is resistant to high temperatures and will not tar.

For a frame bath, it is necessary to put insulation on the ceiling and walls, but for a timber and log bath, you can do without it. For example, if a bathhouse is made of a log, it is enough to pre-sew up its ceiling with thick boards - at least 6 cm. Mineral wool is most suitable as a heater for the ceiling - only it must be laid in a layer of at least 15 cm.

Video: insulation and finishing of the ceiling from the inside

Wall insulation

The best solution for wall insulation is a construction set made of materials that can be easily repaired or replaced.

The structure of the insulation of the walls of the bath resembles the device of a roofing pie

Video: insulation and foil upholstery of a paired room

Thermal insulation of the floor in the bath

And finally, let's work on the floor. Indeed, a large amount of heated air usually leaves the room through it. Expanded clay is most often used as insulation for floors - it is an inexpensive and reliable insulation that prevents the appearance of mold and condensation.

It is cheaper, of course, to sprinkle everything with slag, but expanded clay is more environmentally friendly and weighs less. When installing wooden floors, the material is placed between the logs. If a concrete floor is poured, then expanded clay is placed between each concrete layer.

Let's analyze the usual cycle of work on the insulation of a concrete floor.

Video: features of the device of the concrete floor in the bath

In addition to the walls, floor and ceiling, they also pay attention to the insulation of doors, windows and window openings. They are treated with silicone sealants. It is customary to insulate external doors with natural materials. And it is not customary to save on them, otherwise in a few years, or even for the next season, you will have to redo everything.

Material selection
Warming flooring
Thermal insulation of the walls of the bath
Ceiling insulation
Window and door processing

At sub-zero temperatures, the brick cools down very quickly, and then it will be difficult and expensive to warm it up. Therefore, the insulation of a brick bath from the inside becomes the main issue for all lovers of steam in the cold. The following is the process of insulating a brick bath from the inside.

With the help of various building materials, it is easy to insulate the bath with your own hands, so that at sub-zero temperatures a hot atmosphere always remains inside.

Material selection

Brick, as is known from practice, cools down quickly and heats up slowly. Moreover, it keeps warm like a sieve. Therefore, it is imperative to insulate the bath. Otherwise, instead of the pleasure and health of the lover to take a steam bath, a continuous inconvenience awaits against the background of an eternal cold.

Scheme of effective insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside

To insulate the bath from the inside, you can use the following materials:

wood;
glass wool;
mineral wool;
polyurethane plates;
polystyrene;
porous cellulose plates;
pressed reed mats;
expanded clay.

Each of them has its own disadvantages and advantages, but the price plays the main role in the choice of material. If you have enough money, you can even use a special insulation with foil. It's expensive but really worth it. A layer of insulation (mineral wool or polymer) does not let the cold outside, and the foil reflects the heat from the source back into the room. According to some reports, the return is up to 97% of the generated heat energy. The goal is to keep a constant high temperature achieved, but at a certain cost.

Experts advise to apply a differentiated approach to the insulation of the bath from the inside. Simply put, in different rooms use different insulation. For example, in the recreation room and the dressing room, you can do with simple mineral wool, but for the steam room it is worth to fork out for foil.

Back to the table of contents

Construction starts from the foundation.

So it is better to start the insulation of a brick bath inside from the floor.

Thermal insulation of the floor covering of the bath

First you need to separate the floor from the ground. For this, a gap (air cushion) is left between them. The process looks like this:

wooden beams are placed on the ground;
expanded clay is poured between them (layer thickness - wall thickness multiplied by 2);
wood logs, dried and treated from insects, are laid on this frame;
insulating material of your choice is laid between them;
the joints between the lags and the insulation are filled with polyurethane foam;
from above, everything is covered with a layer of glassine (relatively inexpensive, but high-quality insulating material);
then the main floor is laid from boards or plywood.

After that, the base floor can be laid.

If a stationary oven is provided in the bath, a capital foundation must be made for it, otherwise its weight will lead to deformation of the floor and its destruction.

Back to the table of contents

When finished with the floor, you can move on to the walls. Brickwork, before it is closed by insulation, must be treated with a liquid from fungus and mold. Some advise you to limit yourself to the treatment of the steam room and shower, but moisture will penetrate everywhere, so it is better to process all the walls.

Bath ceiling insulation scheme

The process is broadly as follows. Blow out the joints of window frames and walls with polyurethane foam, repeat the same with the doors. The timber frame beams are attached to the walls. It is better not to use metal, because it is susceptible to corrosion and takes away heat. Then we lay and fasten the selected type of insulation (if it is glued, the walls must be primed). The next step is to fix the insulating layer. Foil, glassine, kraft paper are good for this purpose, although the latter can get wet and deteriorate over time.

On top of the insulating layer, a counter-lattice treated with antiseptic agents is attached to create ventilation gaps. Planks for wall cladding are attached on top.

Various materials imply their own special technologies. But in general, the sequence of actions is the same as described above.

It should be borne in mind that the whole bath needs to be insulated as a whole, and not just individual rooms. Otherwise, "cold" areas will draw heat onto themselves.

Back to the table of contents

Heat in a brick bath is also lost through the ceiling. Heat loss can be especially strong in one-story saunas, and an air cushion in the attic will not help. Therefore, you need to do the insulation of the ceiling too.

The work is carried out after the floor and walls of the bath have been insulated. A typical work sequence is as follows:

overlapping sheets of fiberglass are laid on the overlap, the joints are glued together with tape or glue;
a mixture of sand, clay and coarsely chopped straw is applied on top, it is also called "adobe" (thickness is not less than 30 cm);
on top of this layer, polystyrene (foam) plates are placed;
a layer of concrete is poured onto them (at least 10 cm thick);
on the resulting "rough ceiling" the lathing beams, treated with an antiseptic, are laid;
mineral wool slabs are placed between them;
foil is placed on top of the insulation (above the steam room and shower, it is required);
the entire structure is closed with boards so that an air gap of at least 10 cm remains between them and the surface of the insulation.

Such a ceiling will reliably keep heat even in the most severe frosts.

Back to the table of contents

It is impossible to insulate a brick bath without sealing windows and doors. There is a serious loss of heat through them, so even if you have properly insulated the floor, walls and ceiling, the room may still not warm up due to cracks in the frames and loose doors.

If you are a supporter of natural materials and have installed wooden doors and window frames for yourself, you need to carefully seal all the cracks.

Glasses must be carefully adjusted to the size of the frames and firmly adhered to the grooves. The joints are covered with putty so that it also covers the nails with which the glass is attached. By the way, a window of 1 glass is not suitable for a bath, it is better to put frames on 2 glasses, or even 3.

In the latter case, a double-glazed window would be an ideal solution. It will provide reliable sealing, thanks to which the windows will not fog up and rot from excess moisture.

You can refer to verified folk traditions used by our grandfathers and great-grandfathers. To reduce heat loss, the windows in the bathhouse were lowered as low as possible in relation to the ground, the door was made low and the threshold high.

Now, after the insulation work has been completed, you can safely bathe all year round, without fear that the winter winds will blow precious heat out of the bath.

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How to properly insulate a brick bath from the inside with your own hands?

Comparing a brick bath with a wooden one, you understand that it wins several times in terms of quality characteristics. First, the brick doesn't burn. Secondly, it is absolutely not afraid of moisture, so there is no need to cover brick walls with moisture-resistant and antiseptic compounds.

But this material has a decent thermal conductivity, which makes brick baths poorly protected from cold air penetration. Therefore, such a process as warming a brick bath is a prerequisite for the construction of this building.

The best option is insulation outside. But there are situations when thermal insulation measures can be carried out only from the inside. For example, if the bathhouse is built close to some other building. Or a brick wall plays a role facade decoration... But there is another explanation why it is better to insulate from the inside than from the outside.

The bathhouse is heated inconsistently, so in winter its walls freeze through. And if you start to heat it, then all the heat will go to warming up the walls, and only after that to the interior. So, in this article we will consider the second option - insulation of a brick bath from the inside.

Warming options

Immediately, we will make a reservation that there are a large number of different methods where different heat-insulating, and not only, materials are used. Let's consider the main options that you can do yourself.

Option number 1

This method is considered by the master to be the simplest, so doing it yourself will not be a big problem. It is based on the process of wall insulation with heat-insulating materials, which fit into the crate or without it. Here is the sequence for this process:

The inner surfaces of the walls must be waterproofed. To do this, they must be leveled with plaster or putty, and after drying, apply a coating waterproofing. We recommend using bitumen-based mastics. Rarely when roll material is used for these purposes.
Next, a crate of wooden beams is stuffed onto the walls, which are pre-treated with an antiseptic solution.
Now, insulation is laid between the elements of the crate.

Advice! The optimum thickness of the heat insulator for bath rooms is 200 mm. It is necessary to lay the insulation between the beams in an interference fit so that there are no gaps that will become cold bridges. Please note that in this case, the thickness of the insulation and the width of the timber must be the same.

After that, a vapor barrier membrane is stretched right along the crate. It is attached to wooden elements with metal staples. Therefore, you will need to purchase a stapler.
And already on the very crate, the lining is mounted.

Often, experts use double wall insulation, while installing two battens with insulation 100 mm thick. The process is more complicated, but it will not be difficult to do it yourself.

If penoplex is used as a heater, then there is no need to install hydro and vapor barrier layers. But it is better not to give up the crate. This is the base on which the lining will be mounted.

Option number 2

The second way to insulate a brick bath is to build another wall near the walls, only a wooden one with a heat-insulating layer. For this, a frame made of wooden slats is installed on a brick.

Its elements can be laid horizontally or vertically. Everyone decides for himself. But remember that the elements of the wall itself will be laid perpendicular to the elements of the frame:

Now the waterproofing membrane is stretched and fastened along the crate.
Then the second wall is built. It is most often erected from wooden beams with a section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. Please note that the elements of the new wall must fit tightly to each other. This thickness of the wooden wall is already an excellent indicator of thermal insulation.
But now you need to decide whether it is worth using additional insulation or not. If "yes", then a crate is assembled along the new wall, where the heat insulator is laid. A vapor barrier or foil roll material is installed on top of the lathing. If there is no need for insulation, then the crate is mounted anyway, only from slats of small thickness. A waterproofing material is stretched on top of the frame.
And the last stage is the decoration of the walls with clapboard.

Thermal insulation of other building elements

In addition to the walls in a brick bath, insulation of other structures is mandatory. Those who carry out these construction operations for the first time with their own hands make one important mistake. They do not insulate the foundation. But in vain. Thermal insulation of the floor is not the final stage when it comes to the compliance of the lower structures of the building with thermal insulation standards. Just like walls, floors and foundations freeze through in winter if they were constructed from concrete mortar. Insulation of both building elements is the basis for reducing fuel consumption and heat loss. Therefore, it will be necessary to insulate the foundation.

The easiest option is to glue the foam board to its inner surfaces. Their thickness is 5-7 cm - the best option. It is important here that there are no gaps between the panels. Although this trouble can be corrected by foaming the cracks with polyurethane foam.
Do not forget to insulate the ceiling, and, if possible, the roof. The more investments in thermal insulation, the less heat loss, which means savings on fuel consumption, which is used to heat the bath and heat hot water for washing.

So, only two options were offered, answering the question of how to insulate a brick bath. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in these methods, even a beginner can do them with their own hands. It is important here to follow exactly the stages of the construction operations being carried out, plus be able to use simple construction tools... But do not forget that both methods are associated with wooden products, which must be treated with antiseptics.

utepleniem.ru

Do-it-yourself insulation of a brick bath from the inside and outside

From the point of view of the formation of the required microclimate and the durability of the building, the use of bricks for the construction of a bath is economically justified. Whatever the insulation of a steam room in a brick bath, the requirements for moisture transfer and permissible moisture accumulation are met in almost 100% of cases, regardless of the chosen insulating sandwich scheme. Even if the principle of a consistent increase in vapor permeability in the direction from the steam room to the street is violated, the high level of permissible moisture accumulation in the brick compensates for this disadvantage. However, in addition to optimizing moisture transfer, there are a number of other specific requirements for the insulation of brick baths, which will be discussed in the article.

Bearing walls made of bricks are distinguished by high thermal conductivity and heat capacity, acting on these properties as the complete opposite of log cabins.

We carry out insulation of a brick bath from the inside, only at the stove we do not forget about fire safety

Unlike thermal insulation of residential premises, it makes no sense to insulate a bath from ceramic or silicate bricks outside. For buildings with periodic heating, the heat capacity plays a negative role, since it requires more time for heating. For this reason, the main thermal insulating layer in brick baths should be placed exclusively in the composition of the inner sandwich.

You can find recommendations for the insulation of brick baths using internal masonry from timber with a section of 100 x 100 mm, on top of which a layer of mineral wool is mounted. This begs the question: why bother with brick at all, if the first layer of such insulation is a sufficiently strong wall for a one-story building? This scheme is not feasible from an economic point of view.

How to insulate a brick bath without investing unnecessary funds and efforts? The correct solution from all points of view is the use of three materials: a waterproofing membrane, thermal wool and an infrared screen made of aluminum foil. Taking into account the air gaps, the layers in the sandwich should be arranged in the following order from the inside to the outside of the bath:

Brick bath insulation scheme

decorative interior decoration (lining, tongue-and-groove boards, etc.);
gap 1 - 2 cm;
foil-insol, oriented with the reflective side inward;
mineral wool (slabs or roll material 10 cm thick);
waterproofing membrane.

It is easy to insulate a brick bath from the inside with your own hands without the involvement of specialists. To do this, it is quite enough to confidently own a drill, stapler, hacksaw and screwdriver, as well as to have a sufficient amount of free time. First, a membrane is attached to the load-bearing wall. Then a vertical lathing is mounted, the thickness equal to the insulating layer or exceeding it by 1 - 2 cm. Cotton wool is laid inside the lathing, after which the foil-insol is attached to the bars with a stapler. Better to overlap the stripes. The joints of the foil-clad material are insulated with special tape. On top of the infrared screen, a horizontal rail is stuffed, which serves as a support for the finishing and a base for the formation of an air gap.

Expanded polystyrene can be used as the main insulating layer, subject to two conditions:

As an infrared screen, a material is used that has an inner surface of polyethylene foam with a thickness of at least 1 cm.
An air gap of at least 2 cm must be maintained between the screen surface and the expanded polystyrene plates.

Due to these measures, penoplex or polystyrene does not heat up to the permissible limit of + 75 ° C, even if the temperature in the steam room reaches temperatures above + 90 ° C. Plates are glued to inner surface brick wall, and the waterproofing membrane is excluded from the sandwich.

Correction of insulation and ventilation by efflorescence

Efflorescence can be removed with special products.

By themselves, efflorescence on the brickwork is not a problem for the load-bearing wall, but they may indicate that the insulation scheme is not working properly, leading to a violation of moisture transfer. In winter, the partial pressure of gases dissolved in water increases. The capillary movement of liquid through the thickness of the brick increases in the direction from heat to cold. Internal condensation and capillary flow cause waterlogging of the layer located 2 - 3 cm from the outer surface of the wall.

On a wall with intense efflorescence:

Add foil insulation

add foil insulation, if it has not been installed earlier, or eliminate possible defects in this layer (for example, poor-quality sealing of joints);
provide a ventilated gap between the vapor barrier and the main thermal insulation;
add an exhaust vent.

Insulation of the floor and ceiling of a brick bath

The implementation of bearing walls made of bricks does not carry any conclusions regarding the method of floor and ceiling insulation. The design of thermal protection of horizontal planes depends solely on the construction of the foundation, sub-floor, ceiling and under-roof space. Consider only the most common design options for these surfaces in brick baths.

Concrete sub-floor on the ground

Installation of underfloor heating in a bath on the ground

Today, the most popular option for insulating a concrete floor in a bath is the use of expanded polystyrene plates 10 cm thick. There is no need to arrange waterproofing between the insulation and concrete, provided that the joints of the EPSP boards are thoroughly sealed. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the expanded polystyrene and a screed 3-5 cm thick is poured on top. On top of the screed, if non-waterproof concrete was used for it, waterproofing is arranged and a plank floor is mounted. In dressing rooms and rest rooms, it is recommended to cover the floor with ceramic tiles. To eliminate cold bridges, the finishing screed must be insulated from the base with a vertical layer of expanded polystyrene along the perimeter of the walls.

The second common way to insulate a concrete sub-floor is to use expanded clay backfills. Since a significant thickness of this material is required (at least 20 cm), beams of the corresponding section, impregnated with a composition that prevent rotting, are installed on top of the concrete. After backfilling, finishing logs are packed onto the timber to install a plank floor. Under the finishing floor with such a scheme, it is imperative to lay two types of membranes - windproof and waterproof. Between the expanded clay layer and the windscreen, an air gap of at least 5 cm must be provided.

Internal ceiling insulation

Thermal insulation of the ceiling of a bath with mineral wool

Further (upward), provided that a flat board ceiling is used, the main heat-shielding layer is located - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. A layer of waterproofing is laid between the mineral wool and the boards.

Regardless of the design of the ceiling and the type of roofing room, the two inner layers of ceiling heat protection are no different from the wall equipment. It is a lumber finish and an infrared foil screen positioned with respect to the air gap relative to the cladding.

External insulation of the ceiling

If the ceiling is made of wooden beams of a large cross-section (at least 30 cm), the main insulating layer is located on the side of the roofing room. Expanded clay or eco-wool is poured between the beams. Another common option is to use aerated concrete screeds filled with sawdust or straw. Over backfill heaters without fail, a layer of waterproofing material is laid.

Video: the practice of budgetary internal insulation of a brick bath

It makes sense to solve some issues of warming baths of this type even before the start of construction. This will avoid wasting materials and saving money.

Since the heat capacity of a brick is an unclaimed resource during the operation of baths, and the thickness of this material has almost no effect on heat protection, it makes no sense to make thick load-bearing walls. A single brick laying is more than sufficient.
When choosing a heater, it makes no sense to proceed from the degree of its fire safety, because the finishing interior decoration is still made of a combustible material - wood.
If you choose the layout of the stove with adjoining it to a brick wall, you should not try to insulate this area from the inside or outside. All the same, the temperature will not allow you to do this from the inside, and from the side of the street you will not eliminate cold bridges. Instead of completely adjoining the stove to the wall, it is better to use an asbestos and steel screen as an intermediate layer.

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How to choose material and insulate a brick bath from the inside

Which insulation would be better - external or internal?
Options for performing thermal insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside
- Construction of an additional wall
- Insulation in two layers
Why insulate the foundation of a brick bath
Thermal insulation of the sauna ceiling

To figure out how to insulate a brick bath from the inside, you need to understand the performance characteristics of the wall material. Compared to a wooden bathhouse, a brick structure benefits from the fact that it does not require any treatment against fires or a waterproofing device. A brick bath has only such a drawback as a small thermal conductivity. This prevents the bath or sauna room from warming up well, and the heat is far from being completely retained. To increase the building's thermal insulation properties, brick walls can be insulated.

In order for the bath to be warm, it must be built in one and a half or two bricks.

When it comes to a private bath, it makes no sense to keep the inside temperature constant above zero all the time. But due to periodic use in the cold season, the walls can freeze through and through, and when trying to flood the bath, all the heat goes mainly to heating the stone. When performing insulation from the outside, the brick almost does not heat up, it is covered only by the lining, so much more resources will be spent on heating than it could.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside helps to reduce fuel consumption. When installed correctly, the heat-insulating material does not release the heated air outside, and it remains inside the room.