The steam room is considered to be the main premises of any Russian bath, since it depends on the effectiveness of healing bath procedures. This is the reason for the device the steers should be treated with all seriousness and attention.

The procedure for the construction of the steaming can be divided into several key steps, such as:

• project preparation;
• thermal insulation;
• construction furnace and ventilation system;
• final finish;
• installation of regiments;
• installing the door.

Consider more detailed each of the stages.

Before proceeding with the arrangement of the steam, it is necessary to make a project, at least drawn from hand. At the same time, it is necessary to repel from the semantic "rod" room, that is, from the furnace. The fact is that each design of the furnace has its own requirements for the area, the remoteness of the shelves, the ventilation system, etc. By the way, the total steam room should be determined on the basis of the number of people who will be there simultaneously.

Important information! Generally accepted standards for Parims are as follows: area - 200x240 cm, the height of the walls is 220 cm.

Regarding windows, they are not needed in this case at all, artificial lighting will be more than enough. If windows still be, it will entail unforeseen expenses for amplifying thermal insulation. As a last resort, if without the window it is necessary to make it small, maximum 50x50 cm, and sealed (this can be achieved by using modern double-glazed windows).

Video - window in pair do it yourself

And finally, the ventilation system. She in the steam room is also needed as a furnace or shelves, because wood high humidity - the ideal habitat for mold and fungi. In a word, a healthy climate is also important.

Video - Ventilation in the steam

Stage two: thermal insulation of the paril

The main indicator of the functionality of the steam is permanently high temperatures, which can hardly be achieved without high-quality thermal insulation. Therefore, the process of insulation is the most important stage arrangement.

If you warm the room poorly, then the heating of pair air will occur very slowly, while cooling - on the contrary, too quickly (we also recommend reading the article about insulation of windows). Moreover, the pair itself will be extremely low concentration.

Today, the parish rooms are insulated by many materials, each of which is assigned its own special function. In the absence of one of these materials, the insulation quality deteriorates significantly. This distribution of "duties" leads to the formation of a protective coating of several layers (specifically in such a sequence):

• sheathing;
• vapor insulation material;
• insulation;
• waterproofing.

For waterproofing, you can use any suitable material. It must be, for example, polyethylene film or aluminum foil.

Thermal insulation should be carried out as follows: First, the ceiling and walls are covered with a layer of clean paper on which a frame of timber is mounted - the base for the installation of plates insulating material. Then the insulation is covered with vapor barrier (mainly by an ordinary aluminum foil), after which the second framework is constructed for decoration with lining.

Important information! The ceiling must be warm up better than the walls, so the insulation is installed on it a thicker layer.

Stage Three: oven and ventilation system

When building the furnace, it is desirable to use one of the following materials:

• refractory brick;
• cast iron plates;
• a natural stone.

It is characteristic that all these materials can be combined, because the cast iron has excellent heat transfer, the brick effectively accumulates heat, and vapor can be obtained by stone. Such an integrated approach will allow the furnace to maintain heat for 14-15 hours (this is about 80 ° C). But in this, of course, the quality of thermal insulation plays a major role.

Separately, it is worth noting modern electrocurceptors that do not require the installation of chimney. They are very convenient, they can be controlled remotely, but there are disadvantages:

• they sometimes unsafe;
• require a complex installation.

There are also considerable popularity now in the soap stone stoves (which is called talco chlorite), allowing you evenly and smoothly warm the steam room, and the heat-sampled heat is powder.

Regarding the place of installation of the furnace, it should be the closest to the door angle - both safely and economically.

Video - heat insulation in steam room

Stage Fourth: Interior wall decoration

To the interior of the walls of the walls, the pair should be proceeding immediately at the end of the main construction work. For this, wood materials are used that are little susceptible to elevated temperature or humidity. You can choose a tree of almost any breed, but in most cases, larch is used for sex, and for walls - alder or a lip.

Finishing works should end with careful grinding, after which the material is left in natural form.

Stage Fifth: Installation of regiments

The construction of the steam room ends when it can go to it and enjoy the bath procedures. After the finishes of all surfaces, you can proceed to a more pleasant, perhaps the stage of work - internal arrangement.

Important information! Shelves should be made from such a tree, on which traces of sweat remain and the resin is not released. From this point of view, the aspen is most suitable - relatively inexpensive wood, which is also very easy to process.

Shelves should be installed on the walls, not the floor, because it is possible to save free space. But if the steamer has a very small area, then the lower shelves should be fixed on the shelf, and the top to equip a special fixation mechanism and raise if necessary, as in the train car.

Video - Doors in the pair

Stage Six: Doors in the pair

When all the work on the arrangement of the steaming are completed, you can begin to the final chord - installation of the door. There is an important point: the door frame must be intentionally reduced, and the threshold is to exalt. Thanks to this, heat loss will significantly reduce, and vacationers will get rid of such dubious pleasure as drafts.

The door must perform two extremely important functions: first, input people, and secondly, not to produce steam and thermal energy. That is why it should be small, minimum with a 30-centimeter threshold and lowered by the box. In addition, the close location of the door to the furnace should not cause burns.

Go ahead. The door should not be a thermal conductory, so it should be separated from both sides by a tree, and the inner surface is covered with insulation (ideally aluminum foil). But wood is not the only material that can be used in this case, heat-resistant glass uses much more popular. With him entrance to the steam room will look more aesthetic and even lubricating, if you look from the pre-banner.

Video - how to make a threshold in the steam room

A few words about the design of the steam. Device steam steam

When finishing the paril special attention It should be given to the future design. Below are delivel councils from specialists with regard to the design of the steam room.

As a conclusion

That's the whole secret of the arrangement of the steam room in the bath - if you adhere to all recommendations, it will not only warm the heat, but also to heal. At the same time, the heating of the body will occur quite slowly, and the bath procedures will deliver great pleasure. The parilla itself will warm up necessary temperature Maximum in an hour, but to give your heat will be slow and gradually.

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If you have your own plot of land, then one of the objects can be a bath with your own hands. Projects, photos and features of construction work are presented on our website. For construction, you can choose any interesting option or project from our review.

So, in order to build a high-quality building, you need to consider such items:

• pick up the perfect project;
• think over each stage of work;
• purchase suitable material;
• plan all communications;
• an important point is the interior decoration.

Beautiful bath on the plot may not only be a functional construction, but also a luxurious element of landscape design.

To make a bath right and competently pick it up its placement, you need to adhere to all NORMS SNiP. Important attention is worth paying material to build construction. The choice of place must be performed with some distances relative to other objects.

Before building a bath, take into account the features of the site: design, climatic conditions and the characteristics of the soil, features of the local landscape territory and the properties of the soil. If the territory is uneven, then construction is better to exercise on an elevated area, as the optimal stock of water will be ensured. Do not install a similar building on sandy soil. In any case, the foundation should be strengthened. The soil layer is harder, the better. Most often, the construction of such buildings is planned from the leeward side of the main buildings. Such accommodation protects against heavy precipitation.

• often used and budget arbolit. At the same time, the construction is warm and durable.

Bath of bar

How to build such buildings depends on the variants of the material. Projects can be performed from such materials:

• natural tree;
• edged timber;
• glued timber;
• profiled timber;
• rounded log.

There are several ways to build a bath with your own hands. The simple option can be seen in the video:

Most often, construction is carried out using a pinned log and timber. Crubber bath A simpler version than rounded logs. It is cheaper material than logs. Building from a bar is performed using.

Solving how to build a bar, you need to follow some rules. Such a building belongs to light buildings, so you can use a low-booty or unlucky foundation.

How it is right and what kind of foundation depends on the type of soil. For clay and marsh soil, a columnal option will not fit. In this case, or.

Before you decide how to lay a timber, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing. To do this, the layer is distributed on the surface of the foundation, and from above the rubberoid sheet. Then applied and the second layer. And the board adjacent to the foundation is treated with antiseptic solutions. So we build a bath, regardless of that small it or big. A common option of construction is a small bath from a half-brew.

By defining how to build a sauna itself, you must first choose high-quality wood. The material is most often harvested from December to March. Billets 150 × 150 or 100 × 150 are performed from the cutting trees. At the same time, they must be cleaned of the bark. It is important to inspect the material before construction work. It should not have signs of rotting or cracks. Wood must be smooth and smooth. Choosing bars, drawings and sizes need to be prepared in advance. At the same time, it is important to assign a material, for example, a edged board floor. With independent erection you need to know how step-by-step construction and methods of connecting logs 3 × 4 or 4 × 4.

It is important to know how to install 50 × 150 boards on the edge, as well as extension options. There are such compounds such as in the paw and in the region. For the design of the profiled bar, a method is suitable in the region at which the connection is made when creating locking grooves.

Frame sauna in the country

Consider a variety of projects by. Walls are lattice structures. For walls will need:

How to build a similar design depends on the main project. Such construction technology has many advantages. This is a high speed of installation and a small difficulty. According to reviews - this is economical construction. Ready building is characterized by rapid premises. Mini Bath or Even 4 × 6 or 6 × 6 design does not require a long shrinkage. There is also a large selection of materials, both for internal and for external finish. Can be used different optionthe foundation, such as tape or piles.

How to make such a design demonstrates a photo report where the photo shows detailed scheme and features of the construction of such buildings. There are certain disadvantages in such structures. First of all, careful thermal insulation of such structures is required. Also, such structures have a short life. Depending on the projects: 3 × 4, 2 × 4 or 3 × 5, drawings are selected. Ready project Must contain work drawings with the correct assembly of the design, with engineering communications and the specification of materials.

We build a bath with your own hands: a brief description of the construction stages

Any construction of a bath in the country involves a thorough plan. Before starting construction, you need to mark up on the site. To do this, you will need a project for which marks on the ground are performed. Where to start placing dimensions depends on where the angle of construction is located. This place is reported from scratch. At the same time, the peg is clogged, and the lengths of the parties are measured. Then compact pegs are installed and other walls are measured.

The design of the bath and dimensions are indicated in accordance with the project data. After that, the markup is made depending on. When building a bath with their own hands from stone, brick or blocks, it is necessary to level the foundation for the level. It is stacked and then on top of the runneroid.

How to build a building will depend on what material it will be erected - from boards or from. Show features of editing can specialists. Useful rollers can be found on YouTube.

If brickwork is used, it should be started with the corners. At the same time, the first blocks are put on the cement mortar. They should be located in the same plane. If you do not know how to do it right - use the twine for the reference point.

In the video below, you can observe a phased display of construction work:

After installing the jumpers above the windows or doors is mounted, and then the Armopoyas is manufactured. The foundation bolts are attached to this part. Simple or shield design involves the construction of wood frame. This element is trimmed and insulated with a variety of finishing materials. To make the frame apply the boards of aspen, linden or larch, since these options are characterized by low.

Wooden strapping from a bar is made on the foundation. At the same time, the knockers are performed on the ends of the bars and are attached to each other self-draws. Metal corners are used for small bars.

Note the main stages of the framework of the frame base:

Any sauna is under high humidity, so the steam room is processed using a vapor barrier film. This will protect from the cluster of humidity from the inside. Fiberglass or mineral wool can be used as thermal insulation material. Such options provide excellent sealing level. Warming and walls of the walls are made after installing the roof. This approach will protect wood and insulating materials from wetting.

Special attention should be paid. Before choosing the equipment for the bath must be fully completed construction works. Ready building is equipped with furniture objects and all necessary equipment. The rustic bath can be performed from various materials, just not from the porridge.

Bath foundation with your own hands: Step-by-step instructions

How to build a bathing depends on the type of foundation used. It is worth noting such options:

• the slab foundation is not often performed. It is suitable for massive and complex buildings. Marking is made on the dimensions of the construction or a little more;
• you can make a ribbon foundation for a bath of 4 × 4 with your own hands. In this case, the markup is done so that the tape passed through the perimeter of the building;
• the column is used to mount the structures of the tree. Depending on the dimensions of 3 × 4, 3 × 5 or 3 × 6, the markup is performed by the number of supports;
• . The advantage of this option is the installation of installation. With it, it is possible to install on the foundation even with a sloping area. Marking is performed by the number of piles.

Perhaps even construction without foundation. The fine-breeding belt foundation can be used when the soil is solid and dry, as well as the low level of groundwater and the construction is not very heavy. The small-breeding option is the easiest. Here are the main points that it is worth considering:

How the screw base is mounted in the video below:

Bath with a shower in the country: how to bring and divert water

There are different ways how to equip the shower inside the bath with your own hands. There is even a special step-by-step guide. Photo report demonstrates different soul installation option. The easiest option for cooling is the fastening on the wall of a simple wooden bucket. Water there can be pouring through water pipe With crane. In this case, special heating is required. In the photo below, you can see shower with hydromassage nozzles. In this case, it is necessary to consider heating water, as well as pressure using pumping equipment.

For the shower, a large area is not required, it is enough to highlight a little place in the pre-tribbon. Necessarily. It is necessary to equip the dummy for the bath. Also inside the bath can be done summer shower. In this case, you do not need to equip a separate cabin in the yard. Even in the already constructed building you can find an angle for the washing. But at the same time it will be necessary to build a plum in the bath.

Instructions for the construction of the roof of the bath do it yourself

When erecting a bath, you need to figure out how to mount the roof. The stages of such construction can be viewed below:

Options for creating the roof can be different, but in any case, we need to consider waterproofing and thermal insulation. Without waterproofing, steam will be held on the attic, and settle on rafters and beams. In this case, condensate can flock on the insulation, which will appear on the durability of the material. It is important to take into account some features of buildings:

Organization of the internal equipment of the bath in the country

An important point is the arrangement of the internal situation. To decide how diverse photos indoors will help inside the interior. Any projects worth starting from installation. Such a design will reduce the concentration of hot air.

After the construction is completed, it is performed and outside with your own hands. Another important point is. With insufficient ventilation, electric heating will provoke a decrease in oxygen level.

It is necessary to remember the constant control of the temperature regime. You can not install a mercury thermometer. Better purchase a bath thermometer. To control the humidity applies -.

Special attention deserves finishing inside. The most suitable material is wood. A good solution and economy option - lining. The design of the walls must be performed in pastel tones. It is worth considering the floor in the bath.

Step-by-step instructions implies steps finishing work, as well as layout of lighting and ventilation. Must be high quality. Also consider bath accessories. Step by step guide Also provides for the arrangement of good sound insulation.

Article

The bath can be a great place to relax with the whole family, in the circle of friends and even alone, however, for this, it is necessary to pay due attention to the decision of its internal arrangement. With all the upcoming tasks you can handle yourself. We only need to pay attention to the study of the theoretical part, and then step by step to embody all ideas in practice.

Pay proper attention to choosing finishing materials. Traditional material for finishing Russian steam woods.

Most a budget option - Pine. However, if possible, it should be refused to use too cheap material. During the operation of the low-quality parley, I highlights the pine a large number of Resin, which makes visiting the bath too difficult.

The best option for the internal finishing of the wage - materials based on linden. This wood does not overheat, so the bath visit will be absolutely safe. In addition, the material normally transfers high temperatures and for a long time saves its original external properties.

Also for finishing the steam can be used birch, poplar and other durable rocks. Larch breathes well, which contributes to the creation of the most favorable microclimate in the steam room.

It is categorically recommended to use cheap wood stoves for finishing the steam. Your choice is the lining or array. From the chipboard, MDF and their similar solutions should be refracted, because These are toxic and fire-hazardous materials. They do not tolerate contacts with moisture and very quickly lose their external qualities.

Otherwise, focus on your personal preferences and affordable budget.

Heating and ventilation

"Heart" of the Russian bath is a furnace-heater. The best materials for the construction of a bath furnace are a refractory brick and a natural stone. They can be used both individually and complex.

The brick is well accumulated heat, and the stones allow you to get the right pairs. Upon the condition of competent arrangement, the bath stove will be able to "hold" heat to 15 hours, but this moment depends largely on the quality of insulation.

In the steam room, high-quality ventilation must be equipped. Quite often, the forces of natural ventilation turns out to be not enough to provide proper air exchange and you have to install fans. Ventilation options are quite a lot. Each specific type of system is selected in accordance with the conditions and features of the individual case.

In the floor of the bath, a drain hole is necessarily equipped, through which an extra moisture will be leaving. This will prevent the formation of dampness, mold and other troubles in the steam room.

Flooring

For the flooring of the floor, the steaming is used a edged or tipped board. Work is performed in a few simple steps.

First step. Carefully align the base, remove all sorts of garbage.

The second step. Make a concrete tie. If the draft base does not have significant drops, you can do without a screed. In this case, you need to fall asleep the base of about a 10-centimeter sand layer.

Third step. Install on the base of brick columns with dimensions 25x25 cm. These columns will perform the function of the supports for Lag. Column heights are chosen in such a way that the finished floor in the steam room is above the floor of the washing room at least 15 cm.

Fourth step. Squeeze the lags and secure them to the support columns. Traditionally, lags with a cross section of 25x25 cm are used. Optimal step Styling - about 1 m.

Fifth step. Start laying boards. Start laying from a long corner from the entrance to the room. For fastening boards to lags, use galvanized self-tapping screws. Screw them so that the caps of at least a couple of millimeters drowned in the wood.

The bath floor is laid with a small bias - about 1 cm per 1 m surface. The design of the floor necessarily includes a draining for a timely and effective discharge of excess moisture.

Wall decoration

To finish bath walls it is best to use lining. Before the work began, make the lining into the steam room and leave there for a day or two so that the material can adapt to the surrounding conditions. All wood is necessarily processed antiseptic. In general, the work is extremely simple and performed in several stages.

First stage. Collect the framework. When choosing a material for assembling the frame, consider the estimated level of the upcoming load. If the shelves are attached to the walls, the crate should be collected from bars. If the shelves are not attached to the walls, the frame can be made from the rails.

When choosing an option for fastening the crate elements, focus on how lining will be fixed in the future. If you mount the sheets vertically, the rails or bars are fixed horizontally, and vice versa.

Attach the first and last rails to the wall. Use screws for fastening. Pagting the crates in accordance with the width of the insulation slabs.

Second phase. Secure the waterproofing (polyethylene film) over the crate and proceed to laying the insulation. For insulation, most often use Minvatu.

Third stage. Fasten the steam barrier material on top of the underlined insulation. For fixation parosolation membranes The most convenient to use the construction stapler.

Fourth stage. Start mounted lining. Sheets of the trim start mounting from the far corner of the steam. Camping can be mounted with self-assembly or other comfortable fasteners. Walking the walls all the walls of the steam.

In the case of a bath finish, the varnishes and paints are ultimately not recommended for finishing the wall paneling.

Finishing the ceiling

First step. Click to the beams overlap the crate. For assembly, use edged boards or wooden bars. On top of the crates type waterproofing. Share shabbles Choose in accordance with the width of the insulation plates.

The second step. Fill the cells of the crates insulation (usually basalt wool). Carefully fir the insulation mats so that no gaps and cracks remain.

Third step. On top of the insulation, attach a vapor insulation material to the beams. Strips of vapor insulation laid from 20-30-centimeter by the flaw. For fastening material, use the construction stapler. Slit spaces with aluminum adhesive tape.

Fourth step. Start mounted lining. Sheets secure to the slats. Sheets of the extreme row of the trim fix at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the wall to ensure efficient circulation of air in the space between thermal insulation and trim.

Cut the entire surface of the ceiling. The opposite wall also needs to leave a gap of 1.5-2 cm.

Dimensions, shape and features of location of shops in the steam room may vary. It all depends on the fantasy and the capabilities of the owner.

The main thing is to choose the appropriate material for the arrangement of the shops. In the process of selecting the material, take into account the fact that the shops will be operated in the steam room - a room with high temperature and humidity. Moreover, people will sit on these shops and lie.

Therefore, wood should have a smooth texture of without any bitch and resins, as well as to be hypoallergenic. In most cases, the shops are built from the wood of poplar, oak, aspen and linden. Mentioned materials have many important advantages, namely:

• they do not emit resin and other harmful substances when heated;
• quickly enhance;
• pleasantly smelling;
• do not burn skin;
• beautiful looks;
• have a pleasant touch surface.

Shelves in the steam room should look beautiful and have rounded ends. It is best to have them in 2-3 tiers at the wall, which is opposite the Kamenka. This is traditional I. optimal option. If you wish, you can make changes to the project at your discretion.

Remember: the shelves must be at such a distance from the stove so that people do not burn on the surface of the unit. If the furnace was used for the finish finish, the plaster was used or the masonry was left "as it is", the minimum allowable distance to the shelves should be 50 cm.

There is a limitation and a distance between the ceiling of the bath and the upper shelf: not more than 1.2 m and no less than 1 m.

Lighting in the steam room

In the process of planning and organization of lighting, the steers must be taken into account the main features of this premises - hot and humid microclimate. Lamps in this room can be placed exclusively in the corners or under the most ceiling.

The corners and the ceiling are heated the least, and the artificial light with this placement of the instruments will not "beat the eye."

Fiber optic luminaires allow you to get softer and scattered lighting. In addition, fiber optic lighting devices are considered more secure for operation in such conditions, if compared with ordinary lamps.

Regardless of how luminaires you give your preference, they need to be hidden behind heat-resistant and heat-resistant plasters. So that the plaffones are not so rushed into the eyes, they can be framed by beautiful wooden lattices. Also, wooden grilles will be appropriate to look at the ventilation holes.

At the end, you will only buy either to do various additional accessories for your Russian bathhouses like head restraints, buckets, buckets, brooms, etc., and the steam room will be ready for operation.

Thus, in the arrangement of the wage to the bath with their own hands, even there is nothing complicated, but it is a complex integrated work requiring the performer of maximum care and responsibility. Follow the receiving tips and instructions, and everything will turn out.

Good job!

Video - a steam room with his own hands

Without a steam room, the bath becomes a regular room where people are soaked. It is steam possesses healing properties, rejuvenates the body, gives the power and vigor of the spirit. At first glance, the recruitment of the steam room does not represent much difficulty. This small room has a minimum of architectural delights. However, when it is arranged, it is necessary to observe a number important rules. Only then the wage will be able to bring real pleasure to lovers of the real Russian bath.

Choosing a project

Design the steam room is necessary before starting the construction of the bath. Her dimensions will depend on many indicators.

When calculating it is necessary to take into account the following nuances.

On the first sketch below, a small bath with a steam room is depicted, in which only sitting on the shelves are placed.

In two other pictures schematically presented more roomy rooms in which you can stay already lying.

1), 10), 11) clothes rack, wardrobe.
5), 7) benches.
2) Restroom.
6) shelves.
3) pair.
8) doors.
4) Washed.
9) oven.

Schematically portraying the location of the stove and regiments in the steam room, you can calculate its dimensions in advance and avoid annoying errors in construction.

Type, Power and Dimensions Stoves. According to fire standards (SNiP 41-01-2003 (heating, ventilation and air conditioning)), the furnace in the bath should be at a distance of at least 32 cm from wooden structures. If the walls are protected by non-flammable materials, 26 cm should be retreat from them.

The iron furnace has a high power, compact size and ability to quickly heat even a large pair room. However, the surface is very strongly split, the risk of random burn appears in case of careless action. In view of this. In the room, the pair should provide for free distances between the shelves and the iron stove.

An example of installing a metal furnace in a pair

The brick stale does not heat up so quickly and the size of it is much more than the metallic. However, she longer holds heat and it is impossible to burn seriously about it. Therefore, there is no need for the location of the furnace on a solid distance from the regiments.

In the event of an electric heater, it makes sense to make a pair as little as possible. This will save energy when heating the room.

So, when planning, the pair should be thought out thoroughly at the construction stage. After the walls, partitions and roof are erected, you can proceed directly to the work on the internal arrangement of the steam.

Installation of the floor

The floor in the whole bath is made first. The floor level in the steam room should be higher than the level of clean floor in the oil.

There are several options for its device.

Wooden floor

The simplest is the installation of a wooden floor. For this, support lags are installed on the foundation.

They are screwed with planed boards with a thickness of 50 mm at a distance of 5-10 mm from each other.

It is important that at least 50 cm remained between the floor and the level of the earth, and there were holes in the foundation for the receipt of fresh air.

It will provide good, natural ventilation in the steam room, and the boards will be evenly satisfied after the end of the bath procedures. However, such an embodiment of the flooring should be used only in areas with a warm and temperate climate. In the northern regions, such ventilation can lead to the fact that heat from the steam will be weathered too quickly.

Video - Floors in Ban on Lagas with insulation

Concrete floor

Concrete floor in a steam room can serve much longer than wooden. However, the cost of its arrangement will be slightly higher. In addition, it will be necessary to additionally put the finishing coating.

Before starting work on the installation of a cement screed in a steam and washing, a cacule should be pulled out from 10 to 15 cm for water drainage. Its walls can be fixed with cement or tile. The iron grille is placed on top of it. From the pit, water will go through the drain pipe into the sewer.

As soon as the water drop will be ready to start the screed mount.

The level of clean floor in the steam room should be higher than in the washing. Therefore, before starting work on the walls, make a mark to which the structure of the floor will reach. And then lay down from it down the distance that is necessary for laying all the layers of the screed.

The order of work on the arrangement of concrete floor

Illustration

	the platform is thoroughly align, if necessary, remove the top of the soil
	30-40 cm laying the sand and rubble layer, spill with water, tamper, making a bias toward the drain hole
	poured the first layer of concrete with a thickness of 5 cm
	after drying, the screed on it rolls the strips of waterproofing material (rubberoid, glasses)
	ON THE waterproofing material Place the insulation of 50 mm thick
	mount the reinforcing metal frame made of masonry mesh
	poured a layer of concrete thick up to 10 cm
	roll up a concrete board or rule, not forgetting to make a small slope in the direction of the sewer hole
	produce laying tiles or gratings from boards

Video - Drain from Bath

Parosolation and ceiling finish

High-quality ceiling insulation in the steam room is of paramount importance, since hot air from the stove rises precisely up. Therefore, the presence of places in the ceiling are unacceptable through which he could freely go out.

Works on the insulation ceiling are carried out in the following sequence.

Job reading

On the beams of overlapping hydrooparasolation. It can be: foil density of at least 100 μR; Folgized foamizol thick from 5 to 10 mm; Hydro-eyed membrane "Izospan", "MegaFlex", etc. For installation, a construction stapler and brackets high from 8 to 12 mm are used. The tool must be well adjusted to prevent breakthroughs in the protective membrane. The strips are fixed with the allen on top of each other at least 20 cm, the joints between them are carefully sampled by aluminum scotch. At the edges, insulation should be on the walls of the steam room by 15 cm.
After fastening the waterproofs to the beams of overlapping strictly in the level, wooden rails 50 mm wide and 25 mm thick are screwed. The distance between them should be no more than 70 cm. Before mounting, they are treated with an antiseptic composition.
Lindening, birch or aspen is made to the rails. Finishing material Possess perpendicular to the shells of the crate. Installation starts from the opposite side of the door. The fastener is produced either on galvanized cloves, or to kleimers.
From the side of the attic in the beams of overlapping makes the grooves and insert transverse fasteners for the chimney into them.
On the ceiling cut the rectangular opening under the chimney.
There is a layer of insulation with a thickness of 150 to 200 mm between the ceiling beams in the attic.
On top of the insulation, the wind-proof membrane roll over and fix it with a furniture stapler.
Then the installation of floor boards in the attic room.

Wall insulation

If the walls in the bath are built of foam blocks or framework technology, then the steam room requires additional insulation. Inside, it should be impenetrable for cold a thermos, which will be perfectly held the heat outgoing from the stove. This will save fuel, which is used for heating and long-term maintenance in the steam room steam room.

Before starting work in the wall cut through the opening to install the furnace.

Then the walls are fixed on the walls.

At the next stage, the basalt non-flammable insulation is tightly placed between the bars.

After that, hydropara insulation is naked with galvanized brackets.

As a protective material can be used:

foil density from 150 to 200 md;

foil foamed foaming;

waterproofing membrane for a bath.

The drains of moisture-resistant material are nailed with the allen on top of each other at least 15 cm, the joints are sealed with a special adhesive.

Then the rates with a thickness of 25 mm thick and a width of 30 to 50 mm at a distance of 70 cm from 30 to 50 mm at a distance of 70 cm are horizontally fasten. The shap must be set as soon as possible to do this should be used a laser level or plumb. Start the installation from two extreme plates, then between them stretch the lace. And already focusing on it, nourish the rest of the crate.

At the next stage, directly fastening the tracking board. For this purpose, either ordinary galvanized nails with a length of 40-50 mm or special klimers are used.

The principle of fastening of kleimers in the grooves of the board

In completion in the walls cut through smooth holes Under ventilation. From above they are masked by plugs or dampers. If necessary, a fan is mounted in a supply or exhaust hole.

If the walls in the steam room are composed of logs or profiled timber, then they do not require such careful insulation. In this case, it will be enough to fix foil or foil foaming on them. Then kip the crate and make the molding.

Installation of the furnace

The furnace in the steam room can be installed iron, brick or electric. The place for it should be chosen at the design stage of the bath. The furnace firebox can be both inside the steam and outside it.

The order of installation in a paired iron furnace:

The electric furnace is installed on a predetermined platform or suspended on the wall using special brackets. It does not require a chimney mounting.

Be sure to follow the distance from the furnace to the walls and regiments.

Brick oven

The brick stove is laid out at the construction stage of the bath.

Only that part of it should be published in the pair, in which stones will be. The firebox is best located in the pre-tribades or on the street.

Video - secrets of strict bath

Installation of doors

The door in the steam room is installed last. It must close and not pass the heat out. Best of all, the door is suitable for the wood or kalenic glass array.

Installation wooden doors Consists of the following steps:

docking the doorway under the casing;

it is impossible to screw to Brusha "Plush", it should be freely moved along the grooves, the cracks between it and the wall are carefully causing;

Another way to install a wooden door is that the grooves are cut out in the opening.

They establish wooden bars so that their edge does not reach 5-10 cm to the top of the opening. And they are already attached directly to the door frame.

Fixation of the souls to the rail and door hanging

Glass doors are attached to special loops.

Video - Plumbing Under the Plastic Window in Srub

Video - Okosyachka (part 1)

Video - Okosyachka (part 2)

Video - Okosyachka (part 3)

How to make shelves

The number of regiments in the steam depends on its dimensions. Their height is selected depending on the growth of the hosts of the bath. In the standard embodiment, the presence of three-level regiments is allowed, each of which is in a height of 35 cm. However, the presence of two regiments is possible. In a small room, the lower bench can be equipped with a retractable mechanism and extend as needed.

First you need to choose the shape of the regiments and collect the frame. It is best to make it from larch. There are many options for its location. It can be rectangular or angular.

Wooden shields lay on top of the installed frame.

The boards in them must be located loosely, at a distance of 1 cm from each other.

Manufacturing shields follows from linden or aspen. Coniferous woods for this purpose will not suit, since under the influence of high temperatures, resin is separated from them.

Effective ventilation

An important stage of the arrangement of the steam is ventilation. With its absence, long-term stay in the pair becomes unsafe for human health. And the wrong installation of air ducts can lead to heat loss and extensive fuel costs for full-fledged heating of the room.

You should not make a hole for Ventkanal directly on the ceiling steam room. This will lead to large heat loss, and hence the decrease in the effectiveness of the adoption of bath procedures.

The most common are several options for the location of Ventscanals in the steam room.

Option locationShem or illustration

	The inflow of oxygen comes from the opening, which is located behind the furnace, the fan is mounted in it. The distance from the floor is 25 cm. The outflow is performed naturally through the gateway, which is located on the opposite wall. The lower it will be located, the better.

During the immediate adoption of bath procedures ventilation holes In the walls you can close the valves. And then open them as needed.

As ventilation should be used galvanized or stainless pipes. Apply plastic structures in the steam room is not recommended. The fastening of pipes should be produced on special clamps.

It must be remembered that the diameter of the exhaust channel must be slightly more than the supply.

Deciding with the ventilation scheme, you should be done in the walls or floor of the opening of the desired size.

Their diameter depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe ventilated room, but it cannot be less than 100 mm. Then you need to insert ventkanals in them.

The distance remains between the wall and the pipe must be laid in a non-combustible insulation. From the side of the street consolidate a protective grille.

Electricity

At the final stage of arrangement, the pair of electrical wiring is performed. All switches I. distribution boxes Must be located outside the steam room and shower.

The wires are packed in the corrugation on top of the wall tag.

In the steam room, they are closed with wooden plinths.

Luminaires in the steam room must be protected by wooden lattices.

Video - device of the Russian bath

How to make a steam room in a bath right and beautiful

The quality of the manufacturer of the wage directly determines the convenience of using the bath, how secure bath procedures will be, as well as the presentability of the steam room, the exercise costs and further maintenance. In this article with photo and video materials, we will try to tell you more about how to make a steam room in the bath.

Advantages of construction paired with their own hands:

1. There is no need to hire third-party specialists, additionally spend money on their services, which largely helps save funds.
2. You will personally control all the work, so you can be fully confident in its performance.

In order to build a bath with a pair with his own hands, it should be started to build a priority of work and adhere to existing instructions and rules.

Creating a project of the steam

First of all, the project is prepared, at least the easiest thing that the plan for future work is understood. The main thing in the steam room is a stove, because there are a lot of them, and each of them presents its requirements for the gabarites of the steam, the type of ventilation system, the place of installation of future shelves and so on.

Determining with the sizes in the arrangement of the steam room with their own hands, one should take into account the possible number of simultaneously visiting the bathhouse. It is very important because it is necessary that they all feel comfortable in the steam room, and that in the bath does not stand free placewhich also requires heating costs. Most often, the steam room is built with dimensions of 2400 × 2000 mm with a height of 2200 mm.

The construction of the steam room does not provide for the installation of windows, since artificial lighting will be quite enough. It is worth considering that for everyone installed window It will be necessary to think through thermal insulation, which entails additional costs. It is allowed to install one deaf window of no more than 50 × 50 cm. At the same time, to make the steam room, it is worth paying attention to the highest quality double-glazed windows possessing maximum efficiency In terms of sound and thermal insulation.

Before making a steam room in a bath, in the project, consider the correct ventilation system. Without normal circulation of air flows, the tree will quickly come into disrepair due to the constant excessive humidity - over time, the mold will be formed, and the microclimate itself will cease to be useful for a person.

After completing the creation of the project, it will become clear how to make a steam room in the bath with your own hands, and you can go directly to the implementation of the planned one. At the preparatory stage it is recommended to perform work on the arrangement of thermal insulation in the steam room.

The process of insulation of the steam

Thermal insulation should be thought out particularly carefully, since otherwise the envelopment of the bath and maintain the desired temperature will have to spend more fuel.

At the initial stage, the ceiling is prepared for insulation. It can be simply seen by plates from foam, temporarily secured by anyone affordable tool, After that, make a weaving with moisture-resistant plywood or other similar to the properties of the material. The insulation is stacked between the beams, while minimal thickness The plates should be 10 cm. On top of the plates, vaporizolation is stacked, and even the base under the plates you need to be used by a polyethylene film. See also: "How to make a pair warming right and what materials to use."

At the next stage, wall insulation is carried out. First, the frame is made of a square wooden bar of 50 × 50 cm, which is attached to the wall. The step is selected so that between the bars can easily lie down the heater's canvas. As a rule, 5 cm is considered for the walls of an acceptable thickness of the insulation.

Adjacent connecting joints are sampled with a metallized scotch. Mineral wool can be used as insulation for walls. Under the insulation, in this case, polyethylene film or other moisture-repellent material is also fixed.

The floors in the doubles are not worth the insulation, but if the desire is still there, then you can restrict ourselves to the filling of the clay with the subsequent fill of the cement screed. And then put the tile or install the flooring of the tree.

As an interior finish, the steaming, as a rule, use wooden lining.

First of all, the shelves and benches are mounted, and after it is moving to the clapboard. The breed of coniferous trees is best suited as material, because they make a very pleasant smell and can have healing effects on the body when heated.

Fastening the cladding is made on a pre-laid insulation and other materials to protect against moisture. Appliances are installed close to each other, and galvanized screws can be used as fixtures.

Installing floors in the bath

Build a bath with a parilicle as high quality possible, if necessary proper finish Floor. The material used should not be afraid of frequent and sharp drops, both temperatures and humidity levels. The aspen is best of the tree of wood - it is in an inexpensive, and has a nice view, besides, it is easy to handle and serves for a very long time. Benches in the bath is best attached to the wall, therefore, it will be possible to save a little space.

In addition, there is an alternative method of flooring in the bath - this is the use of ceramic tiles. This coat It makes it possible to make a steam room in a bath as easy to use.

First, the base is purified and the layer of gravel and sand mixture and the sand with a thickness of 15 cm is then the backstage is condensed and poured cement mortar, 5 cm thick, and aligns. In conclusion, after pouring the solution, put the tile.

Located with a furnace among a huge range, you can find structures from brick and metal that can feed either with electricity or burn solid or liquid fuel. And each species will have their own pros and cons.

Metal furnaces can distinguish such disadvantages:

• their cooling after shutdown occurs quite quickly;
• touching the hot metal, you can get a burn, which will require all security measures during its installation.

A brick furnace to a lack can only be classified as needed in the independent foundation tab before installing it.

Excellent show itself recently furnaces operating from the mains. For them, it is not necessary to install chimney, and the installation is completely able to implement yourself. However, the exploitation of electrical appliances in the saunas needs a thorough approach and following a number of precautionary rules, disregard which can lead to events that can be destructive for visitors to the steam room.

Separately, the furnaces from Talco Chlorite are deserved. These are the latest aggregates that are noteworthy with their ability to make a gradual and smooth heating of the steam room. They emit pleasant and soft heat, comparable to what is produced by the sun.

Place the furnace is preferable in the corner nearest to the door. It is considered the safest, and, moreover, saves free space.

Installing the door in the steam

At the final stage of construction, the steaming will need to be installed. In this process, it is worth considering that the door box should be lower than the usual, and the threshold is higher than is accepted in homes. This approach makes it possible to reduce the amount of heat that is losing through the door, and will also not give to the draft. The normal threshold height is 30 centimeters.

Installation of the door is made in such a way that people who will enter it cannot accidentally get a burn from a preheated material. The tree is quite well carried out heat - in this regard, on both sides of the door it is better to carry out the foil and a special insulation. You can hide these protective materials, such as clapboards, which is not afraid of moisture.

To avoid such nuances, and do not resort to additional work, it is better to purchase and install glass doors. They look flawlessly look impeccable, and will be resistant to any conditions that may occur in the bath.

We hope everyone who read the article now knows how to make a steam room in the bath with your own hands. The main thing is to pay attention to the arrangement of the bath to maximize their forces, and finance is saved only in special cases. As a result, you will build a really high-quality, beautiful, reliable and at the same time a safe steam room that has been able to work for many years, pleaseing you with your warmth.

Warming steam room in the bath: Step-by-step instruction

The thermal insulation of the steam is necessarily needed in any bath, regardless of the material of its manufacture. It is best to pay time for this case at the construction stage, although in the finished bath it is also possible to implement. How to perform warming steam room in the bath with your own hands - you will learn from our article. The steam room is the most important room of the bath. It should not be cold, and it is unlikely to challenge such a statement. Each bobbie's preservation is trying to minimize any thermal losses in her steam office, as excess costs for heating, problems with the heating of the room, the maintenance of heat in it and the discomfort of the bath procedures usually do not make anyone. For reliable insulation of the steam, it is necessary to pass sequentially several stages of work on the insulation of its walls, gender and ceiling.

Features of reducing heat loss in the steam

To avoid the extra costs of extroduction oven and keep heat in the steam room, you need to consider several simple rules Bath Planning:

• The area of \u200b\u200bconstruction is determined depending on the number of visitors present in it and the numbers of its rooms - pair, locker rooms and others. The size of the steam is usually 4-6 m2.
• The locker room is planned closer to the entrance door of the bath. This will delay the cold air from penetration into the pair.
• To maintain heat, the entrance from the steam room in the adjacent room can be issued as a tambour.
• The doorway for the steam room is performed with a high threshold and a width of no more than 0.7 m.
• Bath furnace is closer to the exit.
• To reduce heat losses through the window, the latter is made of two-chamber windows and is placed at an altitude of 1 m from the floor of the pair compartment.

Heat insulation materials for warming steam

Natural raw materials and artificial products are used as thermal insulation and sealing materials for steam room.
It is related to natural raw materials: the pass, which is used to fill the gaps, sphagnum, which performs the functions of the interventovation seal, construction frame moss - wall insulation. These materials are environmentally friendly and well coped with the protection of premises from heat losses. However, they are susceptible to rapid rotting and are delicacy for insects. For this reason natural insulation Recommend to process with antiseptics, and for the wage, their use is undesirable.
Artificial materials for insulation are clay and polystyrene foam plates, basalt wool and ordinary foam. All of them differ in moisture resistance, biological safety, long-term operation and high degree of thermal insulation. Ceramzit plates are used for floor-insulation Parilos, polystyrene foam - for their attic overlaps, and basalt wool - for walls and ceilings.
For insulation and waterproofing of walls and the ceiling steam room, a foil insulation is currently used. It is a roll of basalt wool with a layer of aluminum foil pasted on it. When using this material, the process of insulation of structures is greatly simplified - the foil protects the insulation from moisture and helps to reflect heat from the enclosing structures inside the room.

Warming Ceiling Parry in Ban

For the insulation of the ceiling in the steam room, we will use the modern method, which involves the use of foil material as a vapor insulating layer.
The work consists of five stages:

1. A heater is attached to the ceiling beams with a stapler, drowning with a layer of aluminum foil inside the room, which simultaneously serves as a heat transfer screen. This will reduce the costs of warming up and maintaining the heat of the steam room 2-3 times. The joints of the insulator cloth, laid, are sampled by aluminum scotch. Other vapor insulation materials are also used for baths, but they are not so effective.
2. Fastening the ceiling crate supporting the insulation is made by screws across the ceiling beams. The shap is necessary for the installation of the outer ceiling. FROM inner The ceiling of the room between the future trim and the canvas of foil isolation is left by air heat transfer gap.
3. Laying the selected insulation is made by the attic room between the ceiling beams. It should be dense, without the slightest clearances.
4. On top of the insulation, the film from polyethylene is fixed and secured for its protection against moisture and dust from the street. To avoid mechanical damage to multilayer thermal insulation in the attic, it is laid on the beams of a rough milking floor.
5. On the last stage Works ceiling steam wrapped on a wooden clap cage. The material for it can serve wood of hardwood - limes, aspens, etc. What material to choose is to solve you.

When insulating a steam room in a frame bath, such thermal insulation of the ceiling is necessary, and for breed Siruba - optional. There are enough boards 6 cm thick fixed on ceiling beams, and mineral wool layer at 15 cm.

Heat insulation wall paired in the bath

Before internal insulation Walls in a steam room are necessary with the help of sealant to close all the joints and gaps in them. After drying the composition, it is possible to start the thermal insulation. Its process is similar to the ceiling warming, but has some nuances. The insulation of the walls is carried out in the horizontal direction along the perimeter of the steam room, moving from the top to the floor. Moreover, the foil strip goes into the slope left when the ceiling insulation. The insulated wall of the steam room should have three layers of protection: waterproofing, thermal insulation and vaporizolation membrane.
The order of work is:

• To eliminate the possibility of formation on the walls of the condensation of vapors, the enclosing pair structures are covered with a waterproofing film.
• The heat-insulating layer of mineral wool is stacked into the lamb of the bar, which is stuffed onto the wall of waterproofing and the intermediate layer of pure paper.
• The vapor insulation layer protects the insulation from exposure wet air. For this purpose, a foil membrane is used, which is attached over the insulation to the crate with a stapler. The joints of her cloths, performed by the mustache, are sampled with metallic scotch.
• At the last stage, on top of the membrane to the wooden frame wall frame, the lining of the deciduous tree of the tree is mounted.

Unlike the insulation of the steam room in a brick bath, a wooden building will require a smaller amount of heat insulating materials, since the wood itself has similar properties.
Important! Before outdoor trim The walls on the crate need to fill thin rails to create an air gap, which, together with a foil membrane, will create a heat reflecting effect.

Floor insulation Parling in the bath

Concrete floor is stronger and durable wooden, as moisture is not afraid. Behind the tile laid on the screed, care is very simple. But the tile is cold material. Wooden floors for steam rooms are suitable much more. To reduce its thermal losses, both types of floors require insulation.

Wooden floor insulation in steam room

Structurally, the wooden floor has differences from the floor of concrete, but their thermal insulation has the same principle. The whole system looks like this: the foundation, overlap beams, lags, laid on beams, a layer of vapor insulation material, black floor, insulation, waterproofing layer, clean floor.
After installing the lag and laying a vapor barrier material, the space between the beams of the overlap is filled with insulation. They can serve as sand, slag, ceramzit, fiberglass mats or mineral wool and foam. Waterproofing and clean floor are stacked on the insulation.

Concrete heat insulation in a steam room

The scheme of concrete warmed floor in the steam room is: foundation concrete overlap, waterproofing layer, insulation, concrete screed, ceramic tile or wooden floor.
It can be noted that such a floor is similar to a kind of sandwich, consisting of a pair of concrete layers and insulation laid between them. In the same way, the floor is insulated by the Bath, erected on the foundation. The difference here is that the monolithic base is replaced with a reinforced concrete slab furnaceed on a frame made of metal chapellor.
Work on the insulation of sex in a steam room consists of several stages:

1. The base of the base of the lower floor layer is performed from concrete mixhaving a rubble fraction of 20-35 mm. The thickness of the concrete pillow is 120-150 mm.
2. Waterproofing is laid after the polymerization of concrete. The materials for it can be runneroid, only bitumen mastics. Before applying the last base is painted with a special primer. Waterproofing is laid by concrete surface After its processing, two or three layers of bitumen material.
3. For installation of the insulation, mineral wool is used, perlite, boiler slag layer 250-300 mm, foam, clamzite layer 100-150 mm, etc.
4. The second layer of the floor is laid on the heat insulating material. In the concrete of this layer, the smaller fraction of rubble is applied.

The finished floor can be covered with a table made of wood. After the end of the bath procedures, it is removed, wash and dried.
How to insulate the steam room in the bath - look at the video:

As you have convinced, the insulation of the steam room is easy to perform independently. Include your patience and hard work, and the result will be necessary! Posted by: Editorial Tutknow.ru

How to make floors in a steam bath

When it is erected or is monitically repaired own bathFloors in the steam room require special attention.
The floors should be durable, heat-resistant and few susceptible moisture. Otherwise, they will quickly come into disrepair and will have to be completely changed.

Required floor properties in steam

An independent device of the floor in a steam bath requires compliance with the basic rules. According to standard technological characteristics, the floors in the bath in the steam room and the car must have such properties as:

• trouble-free removal of used water;
• the possibility of saving the temperature for a long time;
• cleaning without much effort and use of expensive means of household chemicals.

On a note! It is very important that the floors in the steam room do not create discomfort for vacationers.

Cold and slippery surfaces for which they step by barefoot legs will spoil all the pleasure of bath procedures. In addition, it is unsafe for health. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully select the material and correctly equip the floors in the pair bath; what better to apply materials how to spend everything necessary workHow to care for the finished floor to increase its service life - these and some other important issues will be covered in the proposed material.

What materials are needed

When going to make the floors in a bath in a pair with your own hands, you need to carefully study the laying technology and prepare everything you need. Regardless of the design of the floor and the planned fixed coating, first will need to be held preparatory work. The following materials will be needed for them:

• components of a concrete screed - cement, sand, gravel;
• reinforcement grid;
• rolled waterproofer - rubberoid and / or polyethylene;
• insulation;
• wooden timing with a cross section 30 by 50 mm, 70 per 100 mm and / or 50 per 80 mm, depending on the design of the floor and the planned piston coating;
• the board with a sheet with a castle type "Schip-groove" type - for non-flowing floors;
• smooth board - for leaking floors;
• discharge pipes for waste water;
• siphon and grille for draining arrangement;
• antiseptic and other solutions for pre-processing of wood;
• brick;
• pipes from asbesto concrete composition.

To work, you need to prepare the following tools and devices:

• reservoir for kneading a solution;
• construction mixer;
• scales and / or dimensional capacity;
• nippers;
• roulette, plumb, level;
• a hammer;
• technical knife;
• plane;
• bulgarian;
• sledgehammer;
• perforator or electric drill;
• rigid brush.

Preparation of the basis for the floor in the steam

When a decision is made, what floor in a steam bath is planned to be done, the installation of the ground for it begins. In this case, it is necessary to remember that it is necessary to correctly calculate the angle of the surface of the surface for the runoff of the water falling on the floor. On the Internet you can find ready-made tables and other calculated materials for the proper manufacture of floor design.

After designing and making a base, it is necessary to install a pipe for removal of waste water and select the location of the drain hole. It can be equipped in the center of the room or at the wall. When placing a drain hole in the corner of the steam, a special groove is mounted along the wall.

The most popular materials in the arrangement of floors - concrete or board. They can be used both individually and in the combined version. If a light frame bath is designed, the floor in the steam room can be made of headboards or bars.

On a note! The combined floor of a tree and concrete is easier to equip, it turns out particularly durable, convenient and durable.

How to make concrete floor in a steam room

At the stage of arrangement of the foundation, it is necessary to connect the drain pipe for waste water under the slope. For the first end, the pit is shutdown. The second end is carried out through the side wall and is brought to the septic, a cesspool pit or sewer system.

Copy for drain pipe Breakfast or poured concrete. For the latter option, it is necessary to pre-mount formwork. It is erected from the girlfriend. You can use ex-in use, but still strong enough old shields or boards.

When the installation is over, the pit is covered outside the soil of about 2/3 of the height. The pipe must be filled completely. Soil needs to be dissolved and tamped.

Next, under the slope, the gravel pillow is laid out from the pit to the wall. Here is a layer bulk material It is necessary to make 2 times thicker. The pillow needs to be dissolved and applied on top of it. reinforcement grid To save the angle of the slope.

Now you need to make floor insulation in the bath in the steam room. For this, the mesh is laid out of a rigid insulation. The sheets of extruded polystyrene foam can be used. Before the pouring of the finishing concrete layer onto the sheets, the reinforcement grid is placed and the rolled waterproofer is spread.

In another embodiment, the blacks is poured concrete screed With insulation additives. For example, a crumb of polystyrene foam. The required thickness of the screed is from 3 to 5 cm. After the technological drying of the concrete, the reinforcement grid is placed on it.

The final screed is poured strictly along the beacons on a thickness of at least 3 cm. It is advisable for it to use a finished solution or a construction mixture with the addition of microfiber. This will increase the moisture resistance and strength of the material.

You can cover the finished screed for protection against moisture liquid glass or liquid rubber. Another option is a ceramic tile. In this case, all seams need to be treated with special compositions for tightness.

The drain hole is protected by a removable filtering grid. This will protect against garbage and random items. Subsequently, the filter will need to be periodically removed for thorough cleaning.

The finishing floor is made from boards previously processed by special compositions. They are placed, leaving technological gaps for the free flow of used water.

On a note! Boating coating is better made removable. This will allow you to freely remove it and lay it again after drying, cleaning and fine repair.

Randomly damaged elements will be unplanned.

Paul in a steam room insulated outside

To make insulated floor in a steam bath, first it is necessary to put a pillow of the rammed soil. This will retain the integrity of the foundation. The drainage layer over the clay is poured out of a mixture of sand and fine-flowing bulk material - gravel, rubble, pebbles.

The center forms a drain pit for wastewater. It must be deepened and fall asleep with a drainage mixture.

Lags for wooden floor are made of asbesto concrete pipes. With their help also provides free air circulation in the underground space. The finish coating is made of boards laid in increments from 5 to 7 mm for the free removal of used water.

Paul without a draft concrete tie

The floor of this design is placed directly on the ribbon or column foundation. The free space between the base elements of the building is poured with a solution of coarse concrete. Instead, you can use the rammed ground pillow.

In the center of the steam, it is necessary to build a tray by connecting it to the sewer pipe. It will simplify the flow of waste water. For the manufacture of the tray you can use boards or plastic. The base for it is one of the support elements of the foundation. Under the tray, the waterproofer is defined.

Floor coating is made of tightly laid boards. A bias created in the process of arrangement of the floor ensures the flow of waste water directly into the tray and then in the sewer tube.

Horizontal floor in steam room

In this embodiment, the finishing floor in the steam room in a wooden bath is stacked horizontally. A drainage design is placed in the free space between the rough screed and finishing coating.

A similar design allows the floors from the water used in the bath in the steam room and in the sink. To do this, the drain hole is shutdown under the floor in the oil room.

Floor cake formation begins with blackboard styling. Then lags are stacked. In the free space between them, a pillow of a bulk material is pillow. At the same time, it is necessary to form a funnel for the passage of water. It is placed under the future drain hole. A drain pipe is connected to the funnel.

Instead of a pillow, you can make a rough tie of concrete, which adds insulation. Lags are necessarily treated with an antiseptic and waterproof.

How to insulate the wooden floor in a steam room

The arrangement of the insulated floor without a rough screed of concrete begins during the construction of the foundation. For an impacting gender at this stage, sewer pipes must be tested.

The top level of the draft floor must be lifted above the soil level by 40-60 cm. This is ensured by mounting brick columns and / or walls. Lags are laid on them (overlapping beams).

The next stage is waterproofing. These works are carried out after the walls are fully erected. Initially, you need to tightly raise the soil in the free space of the foundation. After that, the rolled waterproofer is laid. It is best to use runneroid.

Now you can lay lags and transverse bars for roughing. They have a draft boardwaling. A roll vapor polypoletor spread over it.

Then lay mats or plates of insulating material - mineral wool, polystyrene foam, etc. On top of the insulation - the canvas of the waterproofer. If the material is placed by pieces, it is necessary to make a total of 20 cm wide. All technological seams are protected by moisture-resistant tape.

The drain pipe is neatly carried out through all layers of the floor cake and lifts over the top edge of the insulation. There is a doomlet from the board with a thickness of at least 15 cm.

Laying the boarding coating, its level along the walls should be lifted. For this, a ram is used with a thickness of 3 to 5 cm. This will form the necessary slope in the form of a funnel. So the water will be outlined to the drain hole. It is better to arrange it in the center of the steam room.

Instead of a drain opening, you can use a special tray installed along the wall or in the center of the steam room. In the first case, the floor is raised from the opposite wall so that water flows free to the tray. In the second case, the floorboards are lifted along two walls located in parallel tray.

Laying of the first floor

On the finished base, you can install a finite coating. Pre-board are treated with special compositions to protect against microorganisms and mold.

The coating is laid tight. It is better to use pinned boards with a zip-groove lock type. As a result, a smooth smooth surface is formed without gaps, gaps, and the like. Plinth is installed along the walls. On the wedge - a removable crate. Important! All technological slots around the drain must be filled with sealant and handle additionally with a makeup to increase moisture resistance.

Distill used

In the absence of a sewage line, a drainage well is needed to equip the wastewater, a wastewater or pit. For a drainage well, you need to dig a hole. Its depth should twice the level of soil freezing during the cold season. For a small married bath there will be a sufficiently drainage well measuring 90 by 90 or 100 per 100 cm.

At the bottom of the well, you need to fall asleep a pillow of a rash material with a thickness of about 0.5 meters. You can use clamzite, crushed stone, broken brick or fine gravel. Input for the drainage tube is equipped with 20-30 cm below the soil level.

Paul car frame bath or the baths of another design requires special attention, accuracy and careful compliance with all technologies. For details on how to make floors in a steam bath, which is better - in the video, offered to view.

The partition in the bath between the parillery and sink should be paid to special attention, since it (partition) shares such different in terms of the functionality of the room. This partition can be made of bricks, boards, timber, and even foam blocks. The choice of one or another material depends, above all, from which the bath is built. If it is cut or frame design, it is better to use a tree so as not to violate the overall concept, and for brick bath More brick is suitable.

Partition in the bath between the parillery and washing (wooden version)

In addition, the type of heating device located in the steam room is also important. If we are talking about the traditional brick oven, then it is already in itself the partition. In this case, it is necessary to simply report it to the formation of a full wall. In the case of an iron structure (this option is preferable), the partition should be located at least 10 cm from it for fire safety. Here the partition can be frame, and from ordinary boards.

The design described below is a wooden frame, a clapped and warmed by the mining.

Constructive features

Constructive features

The partition will be installed on a concrete curb, the height of which will be 10 cm, and the width is 12.5 cm. The curb is necessary not only for hardening the design, but also to put a tile on it at the end of work, which will be a tree from water.
This threshold can be built as when pouring a screed (if the floor in the sink is concrete), and directly during the installation, the formwork from the board. For better adhesion with concrete, the wall of the formwork must be covered with deep primer and betokontact (for example, the production of Knauf).
The base will be attached to the border by anchors (1.6 cm). The extreme racks will be inserted into specially done grooves in the walls and fastened with hexagon screws (9x0.8 cm). It is desirable that the grooves in the racks themselves are oval and longitudinal - so the frame will not be an obstacle to the sediment of a church. Screws in this case will slide with the walls, no excessive load on the frame, as well as the design as a whole, will not.
The upper horizontal frame of the frame should be located at least 3 cm from the ceiling. Thanks to the gap, the expansion or sediment of a loggment will be compensated for atmospheric phenomena. Therefore, the vertical grooves in the walls are performed all over the floor - from the floor to the ceiling.
For thermal insulation, it is necessary to use Minvatu with a thickness of 10 cm. The dimensions of the individual cells of the future design are 120x60 cm and correspond to the standard dimensions of the insulation slabs. On both sides, cotton should be closed with a plastic film and secure the assembly stapler - this will prevent the penetration of moisture and, as a result, will save the noise and thermal insulation properties of the material.
The lining will be enshrined by kleimers on the crate made of 2,5x5 cm splines. The crate itself needs to be mounted on top of the film and fix on the frame using the tree screws. The lining will be laid from the corner of the design using the technology of "spike in the groove". From the parillers, the lower bar of the crate is attached to the floor, and from the sink fit into the curb and fixes only to vertical supports.
After mounting the door frame, the final finish is performed. Initially, it is necessary to install plinths (one end should be taken in the wall grooves), then the edges of the design overlap with platbands (the latter also need to be started in the grooves).
The platband in the upper part of the partition can be attached directly to the ceiling, but only if he is shifted to it, without affecting the wall itself. The clearance formed between the design and the ceiling must be embedded with cotton or any other thermal insulating material.
Elements of wood will be combined with galvanized screws. You can also use screws for connecting open elements. To "hide" the screws of screws, in the appropriate places should be done in advance of the stepped holes; When all the self-screws are screwed, they will need to close with wooden pins of the desired size.

The first stage. Preparatory work

First you need to prepare the walls and make a border. The algorithm of action should be as follows.

Step 1. In the opposite walls, the grooves whose chainsaws must be 4x21.5 cm (the height depends on the specific ceiling height, but on average it is 250 cm).

Step 3. The surface of the floor in the formwork must be treated with a betokontax and deep primer. To ensure that the bundle was more reliable, you can also screw holes inside the formwork in a step of about 20 cm, score a dowel there and screw screws to ½.

Step 4. After that, the formwork needs to fill with concrete. When concrete freezes, it needs to be covered with a rubberoid in two layers.

Stage second. Construction of carcass

Step 1. The manufacture of the frame begins with cutting blanks for its base. The dimensions of the blanks should be as follows: 6x10x210 cm and 6x10x176 cm. Having done the holes for anchors, the workpiece must be installed on the curb, place and make similar holes there.

Step 2. The billets are securely attached by anchors - at least three on each of them.

Step 4. It is drawn up by the opening under the door frame - the vertical racks are put, the dimensions of which are 6x10x206 cm. It is important that the lumen be on each side is 1 cm more than the size of the frame.

Step 5. With the help of the wood screws, the jumper of the frame is attached.

On a note! At this stage, special attention should be paid to the accuracy of the sizes of the frame frame, since this will largely depend on the quality of the entire partition. Vertical, horizontality, size matching - all this will affect what the design it turns out.

Stage Third. Terkesolation. Installation of crates

Step 1. In cells you need to put mineral wool mats. If necessary, the material is cut with the assembly knife.

Step 2. On two sides of the frame to it, plastic film is fixed (it is necessary to make a stapler), after which it spreads from top to bottom.

Step 3. An obsess is installed in compliance with a step of 40 cm.

On a note! If desired, the film can be fixed even at the frame assembly stage - this will make it possible to solve the problem of its fixation at the bottom of the structure.

Stage fourth. Door Rama

Step 1. With the size of the opening in 82x206 cm, it is necessary to install the frame 80x205 cm (taking into account the 1-centimeter gaps on both sides). At the end of the installation, verification of vertical / horizontal and fixation of the frame to the racks, all formed gaps must be bleed by mounting foam. Surplus of hardened foam are cut with a mounting knife.

Step 2. Due to the fact that the frame has a width of 11.5 cm (this is a standard indicator), open elements of the opening overlap from the washing of planed boards 60x30 mm. At the same time, special attention is paid to the fact that the vertical plane, which passes through the outer edges of the boards, must correspond to the plane of the outer facet of the lining.

Stage fifth. Washing trim Tile

The finish can be performed both after mounting the wall paneling and to it. It is important that the extinguishing and end of the tile shake is performed with extreme accuracy and without any gaps. You can cover the floor at any convenient time.

Stage Sixth. Clapboard

Installation of the lining begins with an angle and produced using the technology "spike in the groove". This means that the spike of each next sheet is placed in the groove of the previous one. Fastening to the crate is performed using iron swipes.

The last element of the lining is cut in accordance with the required dimensions, after which it is fastened with nails without hats (in order to avoid random burns) or conventional self-draws, subject to subsequent closure of pins.

Stage seventh. Installation of plinths and platbands. Final decoration of construction edges

Step 1. For platbands, the same lining will suit that was used when finished. Through the circular, the lining should be cut down in length, and then cleaned the edges manual milling (Used radius mill). The vertical platband is joined with a horizontal strictly at an angle of 45 degrees.

Step 2. Plinths in the steam room are attached to the floor (if it is boarded) and to racks through the lining (in those places where it can be done).

Step 3.. On the edges of the construction of platbands vertical type It is necessary to start in the grooves of the walls, after which it is to attach to the lining of self-drawing. At the same time, stepped holes are done, and the heads of twisted screws are hidden by wooden pins.

Step 4. Planks installed in the upper part of the design will only perform a decorative function. They need to attach to the ceiling by self-drawing, having previously drilled holes on it, but they will not be inserted into the grooves.

The described option is suitable for the already besieged and the required required time of the Bani chub. The compensation gap to leave between the wall and the ceiling (3 cm) is needed in case of changing the dimensions of the church itself. If the total sediment has not yet occurred, the gap increases to 7-8 cm.

As a sheat can be used ordinary boards. And they, and the lining should be only of hardwood, because the coniferous wood at high temperatures highlights the resin. We also note that all bars in the frame should be treated with an antiseptic agent.

The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink can be made of bricks. It is better to use spoonful masonry in ½ bricks (or, as an option, in a whole brick). Weighing such a construction will be quite a lot, therefore, it is possible to use hollow bricks to relieve it.

The first stage. Preparation

Before work, it is necessary to prepare all work surfaces. Flooring is removed from the floor to the foundation, then everything is cleaned with a wet broom. Further, the workplace is equipped with good lighting, all items that are not needed in the work are taken out of the room. The contours of the structure are outlined.

Stage second. Solution

The following equipment will be required to work:

• sieve;
• sander;
• shovel;
• reservoir for kneading.

Step 1. First you need to sift sand in order to clean from third-party items. From a small-scale grid-Rabita and 4-bars constructed a sieve. Sand is carefully sifted.

Step 3. Proportions of kneading - 3: 1. Initially, the six buckets of sand and two - cement should be filled. Water fills, the solution is mixed with a shovel. This volume of the solution is enough for about an hour of work.

Step 4.. The solution is mixed up to the consistency of thick sour cream. At the end of the knead, it will begin to fit and sit down, but you should not add water - it is enough just to mix it every 15 minutes.

Stage Third. Building

For this stage, you need such tools:

• level;
• pick;
• trowel;
• plumb;
• rule.

STEP, NOTE: Mills

Step 1.	The twine is stretched - it will be a guideline. The solution is stacked and aligned with cells, horizontal is checked. Then you need to wait a bit so that the solution grabbing.
Step 2.	On top of it, another layer is applied and the laying of a number 1 begins.
Step 3.	The first brick with a solution applied to the ends is placed on the surface and pressed against the wall. Next, the brick is tested and aligned in the twine, the surplus of the solution is immediately removed.
Step 4.	If you plan to do the doorway (and in most partitions it is), then it must be set in advance. Using the struts, you should install the door frame. It is checked on horizontal / vertical, if necessary, its position is adjusted.
Step 5.	Brick laid close to the box. To bind the partition to it or wooden walls, metal strips are used: they should be hooked and fasten to side surfaces so that they (strips) are between bricks; You can also use reinforcement rods.
Step 6.	At the end of the masonry of the number 1, the brick is divided into two parts with the help of Kirk. One of these halves begins the second row. Stretched horizontally, the twine is transferred above to be easier to navigate. The third row begins the same as the first.

On a note! Masonry bandage is a prerequisite. Due to this, the load on the design will be evenly distributed, and the partition itself will turn out more durable.

1. Every five rows in the seams are placed steel strips or pieces of fittings - it will harden the design.
2. To the walls, the design is tied by steel stripes, and for door box You can apply auxiliary reinforcement (ideally it should be a second-sized channel).
3. The gap formed between the ceiling and the wall is filled with small slices of bricks in advance in concrete. Slices need to be added as close as possible to each other. All cracks are close to packles, also treated with cement mortar.

Video - put the partition in ½ brick

Foam blocks (from gas or foam concrete) are distinguished by the fact that with a slight (compared to brick), the weight has large sizes, which means that the laying will be carried out much faster.

Standard blocks have a height of 300 mm and a length of 600 mm. The thickness depends on the type of room, where the septum is planned, but in most cases products are 75 mm, 100 mm and 150 mm. The cost of foam blocks fluctuates in the range of 21.5-49.5 p., Depending on the thickness.

The laying procedure is not much different from the previous version, but there are still some differences. Below is a sequence of actions.

The first stage. Marking

Initially, the floor and walls are prepared in the same way as in the case of brickwork. Then the cord is stretched and placed the doorway. In accordance with the markup "dry", the first number of blocks is laid out, cropping, if necessary. For this, Bulgarian is suitable, although it is better to use the stone with a stone. In the absence of these tools, a simple hacksaw applies.

Waterproofing is placed in the place of the future design (referring to the rubberoid) with two layers.

Stage second. Installation

For laying foam blocks, special glue is used, which must be diluted in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. The glue needs to be kneaded by an electric door with a special nozzle-mixer. Glue composition It is applied on a foam block with a layer of 3 mm, then the unit is placed in place and is tested, vertical / horizontal is checked. Each new series of foam blocks must be shifted somewhere on ½ product width so that the partition is turned out to be more durable.

Where the partition is inserted with the main walls, it is binding to pieces of reinforcing or large nails. For this, the holes are done in the walls, the reinforcement with glue is inserted there by a minimum of 50 mm. In the blocks themselves, you can make a deepening, although it is preferable to put the products directly on the rods that stick out of the walls.

On a note! When the height of the septum reaches the upper part of the doorway, two reinforcement rods with a diameter of 1.6 cm are laid. The length of the rods must exceed the width of the opening at least 10 cm. On top of the reinforcement blocks up to the ceiling itself.

Stage Third. Plaster

For plaster, you can use the same adhesive solution with which masonry was performed. If necessary, channels for laying communications are created. At the end of the plaster, the surface is drying, putty, painted or stones with tiles.

In some cases (if the weight of the structure is insignificant), the partition from foam blocks can be constructed directly on the wooden floor. Although there are nuances here.

1. When buying blocks, you need to pay attention to the quality of their surfaces. The greater the surface will be, the better the finish will be carried out.
2. The dimensions of the blocks depend on the place of installation, while the density does not play any role.
3. It is desirable to acquire blocks produced by cutting technology.
4. If in front of the work foam blocks to moisten with water, it will increase the density of the masonry.
5. The blocks of each new row need to be shifted to avoid the appearance of vertical seams.
6. Between the partition and the ceiling, it is desirable to leave a small gap (about 100 mm) to fill in the mounting foam.

Video - Laying partition foam blocks

It seems that the steam room is shut-off without hassle. And it is difficult to argue with this, because, by separating such a premises, we do not think about architectural research. However, it is necessary to create a steam room for strict rules. Only the flawlessly built wage can become a place for a full rest.

General device steam steam

The main furniture of the steam room is the shelves, the high platform, on which climbs. If the bath is designed to visit a large company, then the regiments in the room should be several.

Pomfort in the bath build from wooden RequesAnd between them leave small lumets that will not allow moisture to linger on the surface of the regiment.

The easiest installation option of the shelf - fastening the wooden structure to the floor

Usually, high dumps is attached to the walls, followed by horizontal support bars. This option for fixing is better than a standard clutch with the floor, as it does not limit the steam room and greatly simplifies the floor washing, not engaged in the legs of the regiment. Another advantage of the peel attached to the walls is the ability to put on the floor under the wooden structure of the vest and other bath accessories.

In addition to the par, in the steam room put a furnace.

In most cases, a brick furnace is put in the steam room, which is relatively quickly heated and no longer cools

Options for oven for heating steam steam: it can be brick, and metal. And recently the hosts of the bath are mounted in a steam room electric furnaces. The choice of a device for the production of hot steam depends on the preferences and financial capabilities of the owner of the steam.

Photo Gallery: Parilov Options

To heat the air in the steam room, you can use an electric oven, but it costs it expensive The furnace is sometimes placed in the corner at the door, however it is not the best decision The steam room may look original if making shelves from different boards Corner shelves takes little space, but may be uncomfortable Lovers of a simple Russian bath do without lining and build a shelon from thick boards

Preparation for steam construction

Planning the construction of the steam, it is necessary to decide which it will be in size. One person in the steam room should have 0.7 m².

Experts advise to make a 30 or 4 person in the bathhouse. This is determined by the recommendations of the doctors not to bathe alone. Without the company to endure the heat is much more difficult.

Close, as very spacious, do not need a steam room. In the first case, it will be uncomfortable, and in the second - pretty cool, because it is difficult to heat a large room. Preferably create steam sizes 2x2.4 meter.But the standard solutions are not allowed.

Photo Gallery: Drawings and Dimensions Parliga in the ratio with dimensions of other rooms in the bath

In the big bath there is it possible to make a big shelves Steam sizes must match the sizes of washer To save space in the bath it is worth making a steam width of less than two meters and to build an angular shelf in it Even in small bath there is an opportunity to make a 3 × 2 meter steam room

Determination of steam sizes

To some extent, the width of the steam depends on the method of placing a person on the shelf. If it is planned that the rest in the bath will sit on the platform, the room is made compact.

When it is decided to bathe lying, more spaces provide for the creation of the steam. In this situation, the width equal to the growth of the highest person in the family is considered optimal, plus another 20 cm.

The size of the shelf and the bath is chosen, given the position in which it is convenient to steam

The height of the steam room can be from 2.2 to 2.4 meters. It is determined based on the growth of the highest visitor bath. Entering the steam room, this person should not touch the ceiling head.

Subtleties of material selection

The bath with a parilicle is placed in a logberier from the brushing or bars made from linden or aspen. These materials retain heat, pleasantly smell and do not delay the exhaust air. Adherents of alternative options often put a bath of a brick or a glue bar.

Material for insulation

The walls and ceiling of the steam and the outer, and on the inside are insulating using the usual or foil mineral wool.

Mineral wool - high-quality raw materials, and is inexpensive. It is better for its task to preserve heat in the bath only foam glass - a material that is unusually resistant to the effect of high temperature.

Mineral wool swollen into a roll is considered best Material For warming steam

Absolutely not suitable for insulation bath polystyrene. Constantly heating from behind the hot steam, it will begin to highlight toxins.

Material for waterproofing

Parchment or foil is used as a waterproofing canvase. And the skin for the attachment of all materials protecting the steam from the loss of heat and the damage to the fungus is made of wood in which there is no resin. We are talking about Lipa, Aldhe, Osin and Cedar. Materials from these trees are not spoiled for a long time, as they are not afraid of dampness and temperature drops.

Foil is ideal for protection against moisture of the walls of the steam

Decoration Materials

Separated the steam room only natural wood.Materials treated with chemicals are not suitable for facing the surfaces in the pair, since high temperature causes them to release toxic substances into the air. This phenomenon does not happen to the traditional clapboard, the planks of which are connected to each other according to the principle of "Schip-groove".

For finishing the steam, it is advisable to purchase a thickness of 15 mm thick. Purchased material is important to check for the presence of a basis. There should be no defects on high-quality construction raw materials.

The lining has become the most popular material for the decoration of bathrooms.

Paul steam wage to be wiser with boards or close tile. If the choice is made in favor of the wooden coating, the material should be purchased only from larch. Under the floor of the boards, the insulation can not be placed, because through the bottom heat from the wage almost does not come out.

Practical Master Parents will decide to cover the floor with a cafeter, which, unlike wood, is easy to rinse and disinfect. Well, if it also cuts out that the tile must be glued to the lower zone of the walls, because water drops often fall into this place.

The tile does not deteriorate from the impact of moisture and therefore is often used to finish the steam

Choosing doors

From the windows in the steam room should not be abandoned at all, but the door should be such that it does not produce precious warmth from the room. The temperature in the steam room will not fall, if you build a 30 cm high at a steam threshold and make the ceiling the door low.

Thanks to the creation of the threshold, there will be less warm air from the steam

To go to the steam room it was convenient, the doors are better to mount near the oven. They should be turned off inside, aside where the included one would not be able to get a burn due to accidental contact with the stove.

The door to the steam room should be discovered without problems. This implies the absence of constipation and locks that can break due to dampness and severe heat.

Good materials for the manufacture of door Parling are considered wood and glass. Boards, compared to glass, have more fun advantages, because they can be insulated. But the door made of glass is able to visually increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe steam.

The glass door can like that it as if she attracts a person to relax in the steam

Necessary materials and tools

Creating a parley will require the use of such materials as:

• vapor insulation membrane;
• bars measuring 6 × 2.7 cm and 5 × 2.5 cm;
• corners;
• mineral wool;
• polypropylene twine;
• aluminium foil;
• planed boards with a thickness of 2-3 cm;
• antifungal impregnation;
• lining;
• liquid concrete;
• ceramic tile;
• heat resistant mastic and grout.

Determine how much the floor and ceiling wage will be required, the formula will help: n \u003d SP / SP, where n is the volume of construction raw materials, SP - surface area, in m², and SM - area of \u200b\u200bone fragment of the material, in m² (for example, area one tile or board).

Calculation of the amount of material for finishing the walls of the steam room is carried out after determining the area, which is to be closed with a clap, according to the formula S \u003d (2an + 2VN) - AH, where a is the length of the room; H is the height of the room; B - width of the room; a - width of the door; H is the door height.

Finding noting the walls of the walls, calculate the area of \u200b\u200bone panel of wood: the length of one element of the lining is multiplied by its width, after which the groove area is deducted from the resulting value. Last computing action to determine necessary number Lining is dividing the decoration area to the area of \u200b\u200bone panel.

Installation of construction raw materials in the steam room you need to implement the following tools:

• building level;
• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• brush with short bristles;
• ordinary and rubber hammers;
• saw;
• stapler;
• mixer;
• building pistol;
• shovel;
• kleimers and selflessness;
• plastic cross;
• nails whose length is 3 times the thickness of the boards.

Phased creation of the steam

The creation of a steam room indoors is a phased process consisting of waterproofing, insulation and finishing.

Insulation of steam and water

To prepare a steam room, perform the following actions:

Laying insulation

Immediately before finishing, the steers do the following:

1. Mineral wool laid in the manufactured frame. To insure it from strain, polypropylene twine is used for fastening. On top of the insulation, the vapor insulation matter is fixed again.
   

   Suitable segments of mineral wool are laid in the lamp

2. The thermal insulation material is attached to the ceiling, which is taken to protect against dampness of aluminum foil sheets. Then nails nail planed boards. Between them leave the lumens of 1 cm necessary for ventilation of the room.

   Planed boards attach to the ceiling with long nails

3. Cutting lining the required length. After that, it is treated with antifungal impregnation. Work is postponed for several days, providing material the opportunity to dry well.
4. On the walls of the steam, ranging from the zone in the oven, horizontally fasten the lining. Wooden planks are connected so that each previous overlap next to 1 cm. It will insure the material from the formation of slots, which may be the result of the deformation or shrinkage of the lining. The planks are fixed on the spot with imperceptible kleimers that do not heat like nails. But the lower boards are attached with self-drawing, which in the future will allow replacing the rotten strap, without resorting to the complete dismantling of the material. The lining is not mounted until the floor. At the bottom of the walls necessarily leave a place to attach one row of ceramic tiles.

   Installation of the lining reminds the assembly of the designer: each board is given to the groovers plank attached above

Flooring

To separate the floor in the steam room, they do the following job:

Video: How and how to separate the pair in the bath

From the fire wall behind the oven you can protect the brick screen

In order to avoid the loss of heat through the output, the door installed in the steam room is separated from both sides. The inner surface of the input design is closed with foil and mineral wool.

In the steam room, it is recommended to make a bunk or three-tiered shelves in the form of a staircase.The first step should be located at a large distance from the floor, because at the bottom of the steam steers circulates the cool air. The second shelf is made above the first to 50 cm.

The second or third stage of the scene, if it is the last one, should be removed from the ceiling by 1 meter. Otherwise, the shelf will be inconvenient to use the broom.

On the wall of the steam, next to which there is a furnace, create ventilation channels. The hole for the air flow is done in place a little higher than the floor level, and the exhaust canal is located opposite the supply - on the wall near the ceiling. The diameter of this hole must be 2 times more than size inlet canal.Both ventilation strokes are supplied with valves.

Supplies Create at the bottom of the steam

Lighting the steam room follows lamps placed in stainless metal housings. All wires are isolated and hidden in special boxes. The switch is mounted outside the steam room.

Lighting devices are wiserfully fixed under the steps of the shelf. As a result, the light will not "beat" in the eye, and lighting will be soft.

For the finishing and arrangement of the steam, the wage should be taken with a complete understanding of the case, because there is a lot of time and strength on this construction task. To make the room for warm and reliable, it is better to refuse to save. As a result, the steam room will turn out safe, high-quality and beautiful.