One of the most difficult tasks in construction is waterproofing buildings. The main protection of waterproofing is to protect the roof from rain and capillary moisture. It is especially worth paying attention to how to lay the insulation, and to see which side all the materials were put on.

Waterproofing material is designed to protect not only the building from moisture, but also the insulation, thanks to which it will last much longer.

Waterproofing not only protects the building itself from water penetration, but also protects the insulation, which affects its properties. When wet, the insulation loses its heat-insulating properties, which can lead to its destruction. Water penetrating into the room will also negatively affect the appearance of the building.

First, it's worth understanding that waterproofing and drainage are not mutually exclusive concepts.

Before erecting a foundation, building walls and, you need to take care of drainage, especially if the house is located in places where water accumulates or there is high groundwater.

Secondly, it is worth choosing waterproofing materials based on climatic conditions, as well as depending on the area.

The waterproofing of the building must be thought out even at the design stage, ill-considered, it will lead to additional costs, incomparable with those that will be during construction and re-laying of all materials.

Waterproofing can be very different: coating, plastering, polymer, penetrating, injection, roll.

Insulation using roll and sheet materials

The glued waterproofing is sheets or rolls, the base of which is made of moisture-resistant mastics.

Depending on which type of waterproofing is chosen, it is necessary to install it correctly.

The glued waterproofing is made of rolls or sheets in which special layers of waterproof mastics are applied to the base. The most common and most common materials are roofing felt, glassine and roofing felt. Based on the fact that these materials are cardboard-based, it should be borne in mind that they can only be applied on horizontal surfaces.

The glued waterproofing should be placed with its side facing the hydrostatic head, sandwiched between the protection coating and the structure to be insulated.

However, this species has a number of significant drawbacks, it is not resistant to decay, is short-lived and poorly resistant to water. It is difficult to install it on the roof, it needs thermal preparation. And in a pouring downpour, the roof can drip, unable to withstand the pressure.

Waterproofing work should be carried out in several stages:

• a primer is initially applied;
• the soil layers are dried;
• putty is applied if necessary and must be dried;
• paint layers are applied, and they are also dried;
• heat treatment of the coating or exposure.

Emulsion-mastic compositions must be placed hot; for this, the following technical requirements must be observed. Bituminous insulation must be heated to 180 degrees. It should be no more than 20 mm thick with an intermediate layer of 1.5 mm.

Diagram of the main surface waterproofing coatings

When applying tar, the temperature regime is within 130 degrees plus minus 10 degrees, with the thickness of all coatings, as in bituminous ones. The work must be periodically inspected and measured at the control area with entry into the log.

Before installing the roof with roll insulation, it is necessary to level the surface, unevenness should not exceed 2 cm.

To the same type roll insulation also applies to painting, which is optimally suited for vertical surfaces.

Bitumen-polymer modified waterproofing

This type of waterproofing is used for both the upper and lower layers of the roof, as well as for leveling. There are two types: one-sided and two-sided. This type of waterproofing differs from all the usual roofing material in resistance to decay due to a rotting base. They are produced on the basis of non-woven fabrics, fiberglass and fiberglass, elastic polyester bases.

The advantages of this type of insulation include a high service life, a wide temperature range in which this material can be used: it varies from -25 to +30 piles. High resistance to hydrostatic pressure, resistance in aggressive environments, low water absorption... High speed of installation, due to its simplicity and the ability to lay on uncured concrete.

Before performing work by the method free styling the surface must be cleaned and dried. There should be no precipitation or puddles at the work site. It is necessary to remove all oil stains, traces of cement; for this, a sandblasting unit is used. It is necessary to trace which side the waterproofing is laid on.

Before work, the material is allowed to mature so that it takes on its dimensions.

This type of waterproofing has a long service life and a wide temperature range.

Tools required for work with roll waterproofing:

• gas torch for welding longitudinal and end overlaps;
• rolling roller, used in case of insufficient flow of bitumen mass from the seam;
• bandage tapes or special strips with a width of at least 20 cm;
• self-tapping screws or dowel-nails with an attachment pitch of 25 cm.

Waterproofing film

It is used in any construction work and is the most durable, it can withstand direct hydraulic pressure. The most durable of all films is perforated and flat.

The perforated film is thick, brown, gray or black, has perforated cells in the form of cones or parallelopipids. It is placed on the floor or on the wall with its cells on the side to be protected. It is used for both vertical and horizontal insulation, in places of increased water accumulation, for the installation of "green" roofs.

A flat film does not differ in appearance from an ordinary garden film, but it is much stronger and more resistant to an aggressive environment. It is used for moisture protection of walls in the basement, foundations, it can be black or dark gray.

This film is used when installing the floor on the ground, in this case it is placed under a layer of insulation based on foam. When insulating the floor with mineral fibers, the film is placed on the material, then the floor layer is laid.

This type of film is used for waterproofing bathtubs, since the tiles cannot guarantee impermeability from water that accumulates in the seams, which manifests itself in the dampness of the walls.

Roof protection

Roof insulation is carried out using a variety of types of waterproofing materials.

The most important tip to remember is how to properly install the waterproofing. They will certainly put it upside down. Otherwise, condensation will accumulate and drain into the room, which will lead to the inevitable remaking of the material, and this cannot be done without dismantling the entire roof. Therefore, the operation of the house and its final cost depend on which side it is laid on.

It is best to fasten the waterproofing material under the roof using galvanized nails with a wide head.

In case you place special materials, you must do it in the following order:

• a film is laid on the heat-insulating material;
• a film is stretched over the ridge of a house or an edge with an overlap of at least 20 cm, with the glossy side up;
• we nail the counter battens, fix a strip of polymer film on top.

When installing a roof window, place the film on the window box and fix it. The width of the film on the window box is no more than 5 cm. The joint must be completely sealed. Flexible corner pieces are installed to drain water to the roof.

Roof insulation is installed using a stapler or nails with a wide galvanized head. Bars with a cross section of 40 by 25 mm are nailed on top of the film.

It is impossible to allow water to drain onto the insulation; the intersections with structural elements that penetrate inside need additional insulation.

Insulation protection

It can be of two types: simple and with anti-condensation action. In this case, there are polyethylene, polypropylene and non-woven breathable. Polyethylene films are used for both vapor barrier and waterproofing.

Non-perforated films are used to protect against water, and perforated - from steam.

Exists a large number of modern materials that can protect insulation, for example, membrane and roofing films, reinforced mesh or special fabric. They need to be stacked the right side to the insulation, otherwise, instead of protection, the destruction of the insulation will turn out.

Diffusion membranes must be laid on the insulation itself, this will both save space and reduce unnecessary expenses. The strength of membranes is much higher than that of films. We must not forget that membrane materials are one-sided, and the normal functioning of the entire roof structure and the insulation itself will depend on which side you put it on.

There are membrane films with tapered holes, which are located so that steam and water escape to the outside, and not stay inside.

Place the insulation between the hydro and vapor barrier, in this case the reflective surface of the vapor barrier, fixed from the inside of the roof space, will function well. When using polyethylene or polypropylene films for ventilation, you need a gap, in this case, put drywall.

You cannot skimp on materials, and it would be good to follow the workers when it comes to waterproofing.

Insulating the roof or room with a heat insulator ( mineral wool, glass wool, loose foam), capable of passing and accumulating moisture, it is necessary to mount a vapor barrier layer. Moisture trapped in thermal insulation significantly impairs its operational properties, increasing thermal conductivity. In addition, due to the humid environment, wooden structures with which the insulation contacts quickly begin to rot and collapse. At the stage of preparation for insulating a roof or a house, it is important to figure out which side to lay the vapor barrier to the insulation - a violation of the technology will lead to the fact that steam from the room will penetrate into the insulating layer.

What kind of vapor protection is needed

Varieties of vapor barrier materials

The primary question is the choice of material that will protect the insulation from moisture. The classic roofing material and glassine, with the help of which the hydro-vapor barrier was carried out, gave way to modern polymer films with various operating parameters. Membranes used in construction are divided by vapor permeability into completely impermeable films and partially permeable (diffusion) films.

Manufacturers offer vapor barrier membranes of the following types :

• polyethylene film (can be used to insulate the roof or floor, the barrier is vapor and waterproof);
• reinforced polyethylene film (characterized by increased strength);
• aluminum foil film (used for internal insulation, mounted with a reflective side to the room - additionally helps to keep warm, primarily designed for use in saunas and baths);
• film with anti-condensation coating (prevents moisture condensation, intended for installation as part of structures with metal elements prone to corrosion - corrugated board, metal tiles, etc., the film is mounted with the treated side to the heat insulator).

Reinforced polyethylene film If a completely impermeable film is used to create a vapor barrier when insulating premises in a house, it is necessary to provide for effective ventilation of the premises that can remove excess moisture outside.

Vapor barrier films with a porous structure differ in their ability to diffuse. Due to the pores in the barrier, moisture from the insulation goes outside, due to which the heat insulator retains its operational properties, and those in contact with it metal constructions do not rust, wooden ones do not rot. Vapor-permeable membranes differ :

1. Pseudodiffusion. Up to 300 g / m 2 of vapor is passed during the day.
2. Diffusion The amount of permeable vapors per day ranges from 300 to 1000 g / m 2.
3. Super diffusion. The evaporation rate exceeds 1000 g / m 2.

The vapor barrier film of the first type is referred to as effective protection from moisture and is used for internal insulation of structures (from the side of the room). If the pseudodiffusion membrane is mounted on top of a fibrous heat insulator on an outer wall, the vapor barrier will retain moisture in the insulation. For facade insulation suitable for diffusion and superdiffusion membranes, which at the same time serve as a wind barrier.

Vapor barrier installation principles

Vapor barrier installation - important stage works on thermal insulation of structures with fibrous materials capable of accumulating moisture. The work is carried out as part of the repair or reconstruction of the house, or at the stage of preparation for the finishing of a new building. You need to know how to properly fasten the membrane webs to each other in order to provide a continuous layer that protects against moisture penetration, how to attach the film to structures. Before laying the vapor barrier film, it is also necessary to determine which side it needs to be placed to the insulating material.

Preparatory stage

For insulation of a block or wooden house, arrangement of a bath, heat-insulating materials are used, which must be protected from moisture accumulation. For this purpose, a material that does not allow evaporation is mounted on the walls inside the house, on the ceiling or floor, on the inside of the roofing cake. Or a diffusion membrane for facade insulation.

On preparatory stage you should choose a vapor barrier option, taking into account the specifics of the installation and the requirements for the characteristics of the film. Popular options include Izospan (and its analogue Megaizol), a membrane material with high performance parameters. The manufacturer offers a line of membranes with various technical indicators, which allows you to choose the material depending on the purpose - vapor barrier for roofs, floors, wall structures made of wood or concrete.

Those who plan to build a bathhouse, not without reason, believe that the foil film will reliably protect the mineral wool insulation from getting wet and help maintain high fever indoors due to the reflection of thermal radiation. Along with the classic "insulation + vapor barrier" scheme, ready-made non-combustible heat-insulating mats with a foil vapor-tight surface are used today.

We fix the reflective vapor barrier correctly

Before laying the vapor barrier, it is necessary to correctly prepare the surface of the structures. The preparation technology depends on the material from which the walls, floor, ceiling or roof are made. It also takes into account what work is being done at the facility - construction or repair :

1. When erecting a wooden house, all elements of wood construction must be treated with compounds against decay, damage by pests and fire.
2. In the course of repair work, the finishing is preliminarily dismantled, the surfaces are cleaned, while:
   • wooden structures are treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.
   • concrete and block structures are treated with an antiseptic if they are damp and there is a risk of mold, as well as in wet rooms.

Due to improper preparation of structures, walls, ceilings or rafter systems may eventually become unusable or become a source of fungal spores that can provoke allergies, an asthma attack, and an exacerbation of respiratory diseases.

How to install a vapor barrier on the ceiling

Installation of a vapor barrier layer on the ceiling is required when insulating a flat or pitched roof in a house without an attic, when insulating a basement, as well as living quarters above which there is a cold attic. The ceiling in the bath is also insulated and vapor-insulated. Before installing the vapor barrier on a roof made of concrete slab, on a reinforced concrete or wooden floor from the inside, the surface of the structure should be prepared.

A canvas made of a film or pseudodiffusion membrane should be solid so that there are no joints through which moisture can penetrate into the insulation. If the widths roll material not enough, the strips will have to be joined together. The recommended overlap of the canvases is from 10 to 20 cm, while the joints on both sides are carefully glued with reinforced construction tape.

Fastening of the vapor barrier membrane Cloths made of foil film are laid without overlap - butt-to-end, and the seam is glued with aluminum tape.

If the base of the roof or slab is a timber structure, you first need to lay a waterproofing membrane (solid sheet) and attach it to the base (you can use a vapor barrier material).

Then, a heat insulator is placed in the gaps between the floor joists or rafters in the form of mats or roll material made of mineral (basalt) wool. After that, you can lay the vapor barrier on the ceiling. If the thickness of the heat insulator corresponds to the thickness of the lag, a counter-lattice of slats should be nailed to create a ventilation gap.

The vapor barrier should be laid on the ceiling in such a way that the canvas along the entire perimeter goes onto the walls, and that all corners are closed. The joints of the canvases should fall on the floor joists - this will allow them to be securely fixed. In order to properly lay the vapor barrier on the ceiling, watch the tension of the canvas, it should not sag .

Ceiling installation

We will also consider how to lay the vapor barrier on concrete floor... To insulate the ceiling from the inside or flat roof made of a concrete slab, it is required to attach a waterproofing coating (vapor barrier film) to it using self-adhesive tape, and then mount the lathing from bars or a metal profile.

The correct height of the lathing should be selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation and the ventilation gap, the installation step should be 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation, so that the mats made of insulating materials fit into the cells by the spur. How to fix the vapor barrier to the crate will be described in detail below.

How to install a vapor barrier on the floor

Installation of a vapor barrier membrane on the floor is similar in technology to how vapor barrier is performed for walls and ceilings. After preparing the base of the wooden floor with insulation along the logs, before laying the vapor barrier on the floor, a waterproofing carpet is mounted, which should bend around the logs. Then a mineral wool heat insulator is inserted between the lags. After that, the vapor barrier is laid, while it is important to know how to properly lay the film.

The overlap of the sheets of rolled material should be at least 10 cm, while on each side the joint is glued with tape. The resulting canvas is fixed in such a way that the overlaps lie on the floor logs, and along the entire perimeter the evenly stretched canvas goes 5-10 cm onto the walls.

Insulated floor with an air gap

Before laying the vapor barrier on the concrete floor, it is necessary to install a crate, between the elements of which the waterproofing and insulation will lie. Further work is carried out according to the standard scheme.

Fastening principles

If concrete structures are insulated or wooden walls, it is necessary to install a crate of bars. It is convenient to attach the film to the resulting crate, to the ceiling or rafter system using staples and a construction stapler. It is also possible to secure the vapor barrier with wide-headed nails or cap pads. It is advisable to use galvanized nails - they do not rust... Films and membranes are placed on concrete structures using a special connecting tape.

Overlap when installing vapor barrier

In order to properly fasten the vapor barrier, the canvas should be carefully tightened, and the fasteners should be placed with a small step - no more than 30 cm. The installation rules prescribe that you carefully consider the fastening of the canvas around the perimeter - it spreads and is fixed so as to exclude the possibility of moisture penetration into the insulation.

Before fixing the vapor barrier, make sure that the curtain is located right side to thermal insulation.

Which side to mount the vapor barrier material

Consider which side of the insulation film or membrane is laid :

• polyethylene film (simple or reinforced) can be attached on either side - this does not affect the functionality of the barrier;
• the foil film is placed with the shiny side towards the room so that the barrier reflects heat;
• the antioxidant film is attached with the treated side to structures, fabric to the room;
• the membrane should face the smooth side of the heat-insulating material, and the rough side towards the room.

The rule of laying the vapor barrier to the insulation If front side the membrane looks like a purl, and it is difficult to determine how to properly lay the material, an experiment can be carried out. Cover the bowl with boiling water with a small piece of membrane - on which side the condensation appears, that side is waterproof, it should face the insulation.

It is important to know which side to put the vapor barrier to the insulation, if the membrane is used to install the waterproofing barrier - front or back. The thermal insulation "pie" with internal insulation is mounted in such a way that on both sides the insulation is facing smooth side membranes. That is, the rough layer of the vapor barrier should be facing the room, and when installing the waterproofing carpet - towards the structure that is being insulated.

Installation features

It is important not only to properly lay the vapor barrier, but also to provide a ventilation gap between the vapor barrier and the structure cladding for finishing, for which counter-battens are stuffed along the crate. Moisture settling on the rough side of the vapor barrier sheets installed will naturally evaporate without damaging the finish.

Scheme of insulated roof with ventilation gap

If the vapor barrier is installed correctly, the insulation is reliably protected from moisture. Almost half of the problems associated with freezing and damage to structures are associated with shortcomings in the installation of the vapor barrier.

Which side to lay the vapor barrier to the insulation

Foreword... When building a private house, special attention should be paid to the vapor barrier of the ceiling, floor, walls and roof. If this important step is skipped, the structural elements of the building will not last long. We will talk further about exactly why it is important to arrange a vapor barrier in a private house and how to do it correctly.

Insulation overview

Properties of Rockwool Light Butts

Minvata Isover: characteristics

Heaters Knauf: characteristics

Properties of Ursa PureOne mineral wool

Why do you need a vapor barrier insulation

Special film that protects thermal insulation material from moisture, in the "cake" of walls or roof is included necessarily. The fact is that due to the temperature difference, especially in winter period time, on the street and in the house, inside the premises, condensation settles on the walls and ceiling. As a result, the heat insulator gets wet and stops performing its functions. The house is getting cold. In addition, moisture causes damage to the structural elements of the building.

Depending on the variety, the cost of the material may be different. For example, an ordinary vapor barrier plastic film costs about 500 rubles per roll. The foil version will cost about 1400-1800 rubles. A three-layer diffusion membrane will cost about 4000-5000 rubles. The popular Izospan vapor barrier will cost about 800-1000 rubles. per roll.

Types of vapor barrier materials

Vapor barrier in the frame wall. Photo

There are only three main types of films designed to protect mineral wool or expanded polystyrene from moisture:

Standard... The cheapest and not particularly durable type of vapor barrier. In most cases, this is a regular thick plastic wrap.

Foil... It is more expensive than polyethylene, but at the same time, in addition to the actual vapor barrier, it performs another function - it reflects heat back into the room. Owners country houses very often they are interested in which side to lay the vapor barrier on the walls and ceiling. Such a question usually arises in relation to this species. We will consider how such a film is actually mounted below.

Membrane... Differs in limited vapor barrier. This allows you to control the removal of moisture from the room.

Basic rules for laying a vapor barrier

Of course, before going to the store to buy film, you need to do all the necessary calculations. This procedure is completely straightforward. All you need to do is calculate the area of ​​all structural elements of the house that require protection. The calculation is based on the width of the vapor barrier film and the required overlaps.

How to distinguish the inside from the outside

Photo of vapor barrier under magnification

If the manufacturer's manual is missing or does not contain necessary information about which side of the film is considered internal, then you should independently determine this by external factors. Pay attention to the following:

If the waterproofing film has a different color on both sides, then the light side of the isospan fits to the insulation;
... The side of the waterproofing, which, when rolling, faces the floor, is considered internal and should look towards the insulation;
... The outer side is made fluffy so as not to let moisture through, and the inner side is smooth and fits in the direction of the insulation.

Which side to put the vapor barrier on the insulation

Of course, it is also worth knowing how to install this type of vapor barrier. In this case, as in all the others, the crate is initially installed. Sheets are mounted on it and fixed with self-tapping screws. The joints are glued with tape.

Which side to lay the vapor barrier on the floor

Video. Which side to lay Izospan on the insulation

(votes, average: out of 5)

Vapor barrier: everything you need to know about protecting insulation from moisture

What is vapor barrier, what is it for, and how is it performed? I've thought about this before. Now, having gained experience in this matter, I will accurately convey the technical points, and step by step I will describe the technology for installing a vapor barrier.

The vapor barrier depends not only on the effectiveness of the insulation, but also on the durability of the structure

Why do you need moisture protection

Why do you need a vapor barrier at all? As you might guess, its meaning is to protect surfaces from steam. Moreover, we are talking not only about visible vapor, but also moisture, which is always present in the air.

Inside the dwelling, the humidity level is almost always higher than outside, due to cooking, washing and taking water treatments... Since the steam moves towards the cold - outside, excess moisture can significantly reduce the service life. building structures and the effectiveness of the insulation.

Wall insulation from the inside with mineral wool must be performed using a vapor barrier film

Protection is required in the following cases:

• When insulating walls from the inside with mineral wool. As you know, the level of vapor permeability and moisture absorption in mineral wool is quite high.
  Therefore, the lack of vapor barrier can lead to the accumulation of moisture inside the insulation. This, in turn, will lead to a decrease in the effectiveness of the insulation, dampness of the walls, the formation of fungus, etc.;

The frame walls insulated with foam plastic from the inside must be protected from moisture with a vapor barrier

• When insulating frame structures. Vapor barrier is necessary for frame walls, wooden floors and pitched roofs not only in the case of using mineral wool insulation, but also polymer, which have zero vapor permeability.
  The fact is that zero vapor permeability of thermal insulation leads to the fact that all moisture rushes into the elements of the wooden frame. As a result, the tree quickly deteriorates;

A vapor barrier film must be used when insulating floors

• When insulating floors. In this case, vapor barrier allows you to protect the insulation from steam rising up.

In the case of using mineral wool inside the partitions, the vapor barrier may not be used, since there are no temperature differences in the partitions that can lead to the formation of condensation.

As we found out, the vapor barrier should not allow air to pass through, which carries moisture. Therefore, a vapor barrier film should not be confused with waterproofing, which often has the ability to pass air.

Currently, the following materials are used for vapor barrier:

Polyethylene

Polyethylene films are the cheapest vapor barrier option. As a rule, plastic sheeting is used for waterproofing floors and walls.

Single layer plastic wrap is cheap but not durable

Views. There are several types of polyethylene films:

• Single layer. The cheapest, but not durable, as well as unstable to mechanical stress;
• Reinforced... They are a three-layer material. The middle layer is made of fiberglass mesh.

Reinforced foil is tear resistant

Thanks to the reinforcing layer, the film has a higher strength and durability;

• Foiled. The main feature of these films is their ability to reflect heat.

In the photo there is a polypropylene vapor barrier film - it has high strength and long service life

Polypropylene

Polypropylene vapor barrier films are most popular, as they are superior to polyethylene films in all respects. In particular, they are stronger, more durable, and resistant to UV radiation and temperature extremes.

Another feature is that these films usually have a two-layer structure. As a result, one of the sides has a rough surface.

One side of the polypropylene vapor barrier has a rough surface that traps moisture

This is done so that the villi retain moisture on the surface of the coating and thereby allow it to evaporate. Newbies often ask which side to put the vapor barrier on?

The material is laid with the smooth side to the insulation, and the rough side to the cladding. True, if you mistakenly fixed the canvas with the rough side to the insulation, this is not a critical mistake, since in any case the material does not allow moisture to pass through.

Therefore, a ventilation gap is required between the film and the finishing material.

Axton V vapor barrier from the French manufacturer Leroy Merlin, has established itself as a reliable and durable material

Price. Below are the prices for popular vapor barrier materials that have proven themselves well:

The nuances of installing vapor barrier films

Fundamental rules

So, we figured out the types of vapor barrier materials. However, the quality and effectiveness of steam protection depends not only on the type of material, but also on the quality of its installation.

Therefore, in the end, we will consider the technology of laying a vapor barrier. But, beforehand, I will give some important rules installation:

• The vapor barrier is attached from the side of the housing. Since the streams of steam move from inside the room to the outside, the vapor barrier is always installed from the inside, which makes it possible to ensure a sealed circuit;

Steam protection is always mounted on the inside of the insulation

• The film must be correctly positioned relative to the insulation. Which side to lay the vapor barrier to the insulation, I have already said above - smooth to thermal insulation, rough to finish;

Diffuse membrane allows moisture to pass through to one side

• From the outside, the insulation is protected by waterproofing. It is almost impossible to provide complete protection of thermal insulation from steam. So that the penetrating moisture can leave the insulation, it is closed on the back side with a waterproofing diffusion membrane.
  This material is capable of passing moisture in only one direction;
• The vapor barrier must be airtight. To prevent the film from letting in steam, it is necessary to seal the places of its contact with the frame, and also to glue the joints of the films with double-sided adhesive tape.

Installation technology

We will consider the technology of film installation using the example of vapor barrier of frame-type walls. This procedure can be conditionally divided into several stages:

Instructions for using a vapor barrier are as follows:

Sources:

Often, waterproofing is applied water-repellent side in the direction from which moisture penetration is possible. For example, the waterproofing of the roof is laid on top of the insulation with a water-repellent layer upwards. And on the floor and walls, the water-repellent layer is directed away from the insulation, while waterproofing can be used both inside and outside the building.

How to determine the water-repellent side for different types of waterproofing:

Read also: Which side to lay Ondutis films

Which side is the waterproofing on the floor

Depending on which side you need protection from moisture, the waterproofing is spread:

• water-repellent side down - when laying under a moisture-absorbing insulation on concrete or earthen floor;
• water-repellent side up - directly under the screed to protect floors in very damp rooms.

Read also: Installation of waterproofing for the floor

Which side to lay the waterproofing on the walls

The principle of waterproofing walls is the same as for floors. If you need to protect insulation or walls from an internal source of moisture, waterproofing is attached inside with a water-repellent side to the room. And to protect the walls from the outside, the moisture-repellent layer should be directed towards the street.

See also: Wall waterproofing video

Which side is the waterproofing on the roof

The water-repellent side of the roof waterproofing should face outward from the insulation. Indeed, with its help, the insulation is protected from moisture penetrating from the outside - when precipitation or condensation gets under the roofing. The rough side must absorb moisture from the insulation and evaporate it.

See also: Roof waterproofing video

Which side to lay the waterproofing under the metal tile

Metal roofing (from corrugated board, metal tiles), due to its characteristics, requires special waterproofing - special anti-condensation films. This is the only type of waterproofing that is attached with the fleecy side out. It is thanks to the moisture-absorbing outer layer that the metal roof is protected from corrosion - all absorbed moisture quickly drains away without lingering.

See also: Waterproofing video for metal tiles

Do you need waterproofing on the ceiling

Indoor ceilings are closed only with vapor barrier, waterproofing from the inside of rooms is not used even in a bathroom or sauna. Otherwise interior decoration will get wet regularly - after all, the waterproofing will remove condensate from the insulation into the room.

January 12, 2017

The introduction of each new technology in the field of construction provides an opportunity for a person to improve their own housing, which as a result becomes even more reliable, safe and comfortable. But for this it is also necessary in the process of building a house to strictly adhere to the established standards and building codes.
One of the main structural elements of the house, ensuring the comfort of living in it, is the roof. Therefore, it is imperative to know the technology of laying a vapor barrier layer on the roof.

The need to equip a vapor barrier

Indoor steam is mixed with warm air and according to the laws of physics rises up. But, since the roof of the house prevents its further advancement, it penetrates into the layer of thermal insulation, starting its destructive effect.

In winter, due to a sharp drop in internal and external temperatures, steam will be contained in the insulation material. As a result of subzero temperatures, the steam will first turn into frost, then into ice, respectively, the layer of thermal insulation will freeze and will stay in this state until the onset of heat, then it will thaw. As a rule, the consequences of such a process are the complete loss of protective properties by the insulation material, that is, unsuitability for its further operation.

In order to prevent the failure of the insulation after a year of operation, it is necessary to lay the vapor barrier on the roof. The vapor barrier material will prevent moisture from entering the insulation, and therefore will significantly extend its operational period.

Materials used for arranging a vapor barrier layer

Previously, the only material to be laid to protect the roof from moisture was glassine. Today, a wide variety of building materials are used to equip a layer of vapor barrier on the roof.

• Plain low density polyethylene film. Experienced roofers, due to its low density, do not recommend using it in private housing construction, since there are big risks its damage during installation and operation.
• Polyethylene film reinforced with a polymer mesh. It is already a denser, strong insulating material, which is most often used for arranging the roofs of agricultural enterprises. It is also not recommended as a roof vapor barrier in multi-apartment and private housing construction, since microscopic cracks form at the site of the polyethylene connection with reinforcing elements, through which steam can penetrate.
• Sack fabrics made from polypropylene filaments that are subsequently laminated with melted low density polyethylene. Steam thickness insulating material less than two times than that of a reinforced polyethylene film. Such a vapor barrier material is used for arranging cold roofs.
• Aluminum foil that has zero vapor permeability.
• Cardboard laminated on one side with plastic wrap.

A vapor barrier sheet of several protective layers is used for roofs over rooms in which swimming pools, showers, laundries, etc.

Which side is the vapor barrier installation carried out?

• A standard vapor barrier film consists of two layers. At the same time, on the one hand, it has a rough surface that holds back condensate drops, on the other, it has an absolutely smooth surface. It is the smooth side of the vapor barrier film that adheres to the insulation material, and the rough side is directed into the room.
• When used for vapor barrier foil film, which is designed not only to protect insulation, roofing, foundations, but also to return thermal energy back to the room, it is placed in the room with a reflective surface.
• A vapor barrier membrane capable of letting in air, protecting the base and roof from moisture penetration, provides the structure with the ability to "breathe". When using a double-sided vapor barrier membrane that has the same surfaces, it can be installed on either side. If a one-sided membrane is used to equip a vapor barrier, then the wrong side of the material is indicated by the manufacturer.

By purchasing any type vapor barrier material, be sure to read the instructions for its operation provided by the manufacturer.

Basic rules for laying a vapor barrier film

After finding out which side to the room or insulation needs to lay the vapor barrier material, you can proceed directly to its installation. In this case, the following rules must be observed:

• First- installation of heat-insulating, sound-insulating material is carried out, then a vapor barrier film.
• Second- the film should be well stretched, there should be no sagging areas.
• Third- fastening of the vapor barrier material is carried out using ordinary adhesive tape (adhesive tape). You can also use nails with a wide head (step - 30 cm) or a stapler for furniture as fasteners, which will greatly facilitate the work and reduce the time it takes to complete it. The film can be fixed with wooden slats, which are screwed in with screws in 30 cm increments.
• Fourth- individual canvases of the vapor barrier film are overlapped up to 15 cm.In this case, it is imperative to make ventilation gaps up to 5 cm wide.
  it general rules the use of a vapor barrier material, but when laying it on different bases, the roof has its own characteristics.

Roof vapor barrier

Providing moisture protection to the walls of the house is only 50% of the work, since the bulk of the vapors is directed upward. Also, the formation of condensation as a result of heavy precipitation cannot be avoided. As a rule, the roof of the house takes the brunt of the blow.

It is also necessary to understand that poor-quality installation of vapor barrier, performed on the roof, will contribute to a decrease in temperature inside the house, an unfavorable smell, the formation of dampness, mold, corrosion of metal structural elements, etc. Therefore, it is quite important to use a high-quality vapor barrier material and install it correctly.

To protect the roof of a house, experienced roofers recommend using membrane-type vapor barrier materials that are breathable and moisture-proof. Membrane vapor barrier will also help remove excess moisture from the insulation material. The double-sided construction membranes will work on both surfaces of the roof covering.

Sequence of materials

When arranging the roof of a house, it is important that the materials of construction are in the following sequence:

1. Roof covering
2. Counter grill
3. Lathing
4. Waterproofing
5. Rafters
6. Insulation
7. Vapor barrier
8. Roof lining

Vapor barrier is one of the important points in the construction of a house, as it protects the elements of the main structure of the house from mold, decay, rust and other negative influences that contribute to a reduction in their service life. And also a high-quality layer of vapor barrier will provide an optimal temperature regime in the house for a comfortable stay.

Very often, various concepts are confused on the building materials market, even sales consultants can give incorrect information. The names used are waterproofing, vapor barrier, water vapor barrier, diffusion membranes, breathable membranes, wind protection, etc.

Waterproofing for roofs

What is the correct name for materials, taking into account their properties and what are their differences?

1. Waterproofing... These materials are permeable to steam but not permeable to water. Modern membranes are manufactured using innovative technologies. Depending on the type, they have different vapor permeability indicators, the higher the vapor permeability values, the better performance characteristics... May be called breathable or diffusion membranes. They do not interfere with the removal of steam from the insulation and protect it from condensation drops. Of course, wind protection is also done at the same time.

   Roof waterproofing

2. Vapor barrier... Neither steam nor water permeates. Its task is to minimize the amount of steam that penetrates into the insulation from the living quarters as much as possible. Accordingly, hydro-vapor barrier is the same vapor barrier.

   Vapor barrier for complex roofs

Confusion arises also because there are traditional materials (roofing material, plastic film, aluminium foil), which are called waterproofing. But they do not quite correspond to modern membrane waterproofing materials. Both roofing material, and plastic film, and aluminum foil do not allow steam and water to pass through, from the point of view modern coatings they should be called vapor barrier or water vapor barrier, which is virtually the same thing. And membrane waterproofing steam allows the thermal insulation of the roofing cake to pass through and dry. This confusion arose due to the desire of manufacturers to advertise their products by all available methods. Developers are attracted by unfamiliar "scientific" names, they buy the most expensive materials, although there are many times cheaper materials on the market with the same physical characteristics.

Types of waterproofing

IZOSPAN AQ proff	Moderately flammable and hardly flammable material, can operate at temperatures of -60 ° C + 80 ° C, roll width 1.6 m, length 43.75 m.	RUB 4600 / roll
	Equivalent diffusion resistance 0.03 Sd / m, vapor permeability 1300 g / m2 / 24 h. Roll width 1.5 m, length 50 m.	RUB 7,700 / roll
JUTA Yutavek 115	Roll length 50 m, width 1.5 m. Temperature range -40 ° C + 80 ° C, equivalent thickness of diffusion resistance 0.037 Sd / m. Moderately flammable.	4000 rubles / roll
	In a roll of 75 m2 of membrane, density 140 g / m2. Highly flammable material, can operate at temperatures of -40 ° C + 80 ° C.	RUB 8400 / roll

Types of vapor barrier

IZOSPAN FD proff	Vapor permeability 0 sq.m. h.Pa / mg, use at temperatures of -60 ° C + 80 ° C is allowed. Roll width 1.2 m, length 58 m. Moderately flammable and moderately flammable.	RUB 3650 / roll
JUTA Yutafol N 96 silver	Roll length 50 m, width 1.5 m, density 96 g / m2. Temperature stability -40 ° C + 80 ° C. Tensile strength 210 N. Highly flammable.	RUB 1,300 / roll
	Equivalent diffusion resistance thickness 150 Sd / m, highly flammable, moderately flammable. Water vapor permeability 3.1 × 10 ^ -6 mg / (m × h × Pa).	RUB 9500 / roll
	Water vapor permeability 19 g / m2 / 24 h, can be operated at temperatures of -55 ° C + 80 ° C. Density 60 g / m2.	RUB 1000 / roll
TYVEK AIRGUARD REFLECTIVE	Roll length 50 m, width 1.5 m. It has a reflective layer, thickness of diffusion resistance 2000 Sd / m. It can operate at temperatures of -40 ° C + 80 ° C.	13,400 rubles / roll

Why do you need hydro and vapor barrier of the roof

Unfortunately, even many professional builders deliberately use different insulating membranes during roof construction to increase the estimated cost of the work or unknowingly. When, what and for what purposes should vapor and waterproofing protection be applied?

Uninsulated roofs

Such roofs can have different coatings, depending on their characteristics, a decision is made on the need for additional insulating materials.

1. Roofing made of metal, profiled sheet, asbestos-cement slate, natural or artificial piece shingles.

   Metal roofing does not need vapor barrier

   There is no need to use hydro-vapor barrier under these roofing coverings, although it is not uncommon for roofers to lay it under metal tiles and profiled sheets. This is a waste of time and money. The fact is that condensate evaporates without any problems due to natural ventilation, and any additional protection only complicates this process. A vapor barrier will never completely protect the coating from steam penetration, there is no way to make the protection airtight, the air in any case will find cracks and will enter the under-roof space. If you make a vapor barrier layer, and even without special additional airflows, then the operating conditions of roofing will only worsen, respectively, their service life will decrease.

2. Soft roofing.

   Waterproofing is required under soft roofing

   It is recommended to use waterproofing here as an additional guarantee of the tightness of the coating. The fact is that soft bituminous shingles are laid on a solid crate, the processes of natural ventilation are significantly slowed down. A permanently wet OSB board or plywood loses its original properties. Surfaces are deformed, and roof leaks increase even more. To reduce the risks of such negative problems, the simplest waterproofing is used. It does not allow steam or water to pass through.

With non-insulated roofs, everything is clear, now you should consider more complex types roofing pies.

Warm roofs

These are very popular types of roofs that allow you to use attic spaces for residential attic... Modern materials are used as heaters, depending on their type, certain protective membranes are recommended. How do the technical parameters of thermal insulation affect the choice of hydro and vapor protection?

Styrofoam

This means not only polystyrene, but also all its derivatives: expanded polystyrene, foam, etc. There are quite a few varieties polymer insulation, in terms of their performance, they fully meet the requirements of most developers. It is believed that these heaters have two significant drawbacks: flammability and the release of harmful chemical compounds... Is it really? Modern foams do not support open combustion, melt when the temperature rises, and begin to burn when heated to more than + 800 ° C. For your information, wood ignites at a temperature of about + 400 ° C. So, this indicator does not have a noticeable effect on the fire safety of the house.

The use of expanded polystyrene as insulation for the roof

Now a little about the release of harmful substances. You need to know that absolutely all chemical building materials in one amount or another emit harmful compounds. Including varnishes used for furniture or floors, plastic elements of decor and wall decoration, etc. But according to these parameters, they are approved for use by state regulatory organizations, foam plastic also has such a permit.

Example of roof insulation

Conclusion - use foam for roof insulation without any fear. In comparison with mineral wool, it has a very important advantage- does not completely absorb moisture. For a warm roof with foam, there is no need to use steam and waterproofing, and this significantly reduces the cost of roofing.

Mineral wool

Thermal insulation material for roofing pie is very fashionable nowadays. We will not dwell on the advantages, we will point out the main operational disadvantage: mineral wool reacts extremely negatively to an increase in relative humidity. It sharply increases thermal conductivity, heat saving indicators tend to zero. In addition, wet mineral wool accelerates the processes of decay of wooden structures of the truss system by an order of magnitude.

Mineral wool reacts extremely negatively to an increase in relative humidity

For such a roofing cake, it is imperative to use a hydro and vapor barrier. But this should be done with knowledge of the matter, technology errors lead not only to a deterioration of the microclimate parameters in the attic rooms, but also cause the destruction of the rafter system, the structural elements rot and lose their bearing characteristics. The roof has to be not only repaired, but completely covered. The cost of such work is much higher than the cost of building a new roof covering.

Roof insulation with mineral wool involves the use of hydro and vapor barrier

Stone wool "Technonikol": insulation characteristics

Negative consequences of improperly installed hydro-vapor barrier

Waterproofing is installed on the inside of the attic room. Its function is to minimize the amount of steam entering the mineral wool layer. It is impossible, even theoretically, to make the protection completely sealed.

Fastening the vapor barrier

What are the consequences of improper installation of hydro-vapor barrier?

1. A sharp increase in the thermal conductivity of structures, it is difficult to maintain comfortable temperatures in the room. Due to the fact that the air circulates least in the corners, these areas are considered dead zones. In corners, the temperature of the wall covering often drops below the dew point, and steam condenses on the surfaces. Prolonged high humidity creates ideal conditions for mold growth.
2. Attic ceilings and walls can be finished with streaks, stains, etc. This indicates more complex problems with the insulation layer of the roof. The reason for the appearance of unpleasant situations is the wrong choice of hydro-vapor barrier or gross violations of the installation technology.

   V best case they do not allow water to pass through, and steam freely enters the mineral wool. In winter, the condensate periodically freezes / freezes in the upper part of the insulation, the water goes down and over time all the mineral wool becomes wet. Water conducts heat well (thermal conductivity increases) and gradually penetrates the surface of the upper decoration of the walls of the room. They have to be repaired or completely changed. But making repairs without eliminating the cause is impractical, after a short time the problem will reappear. The only correct way out is to completely redo the hydro-vapor barrier and insulation, and this is long and expensive.

3. Insufficient thickness of the insulation layer. Unfortunately, often the thickness of the thermal insulation layer does not exceed ten centimeters. Building codes recommend a thickness of more than 15 cm of mineral wool for the Moscow region, if it is less, then the wool will inevitably freeze, regardless of the quality of laying the hydro-vapor barrier. As a result, the same Negative consequences as described above.

   If the thickness of the insulation standing is insufficient, a number of negative consequences will arise.

Practical advice. A warm roof is exactly the structure of a house, during the construction of which it is better to play it safe than to try to simplify existing technologies.

Currently there is big choice various modern hydro-vapor barrier, their characteristics are not much different, but the price fluctuates within wide limits. You can use modern non-woven materials made by the most innovative technology... But practitioners advise to act smarter - to use traditional cheap and very effective materials as hydro-vapor barrier.

1. Polyethylene film... It is better to take a thickness of at least 50 microns, the film perfectly protects mineral wool from steam. The only significant drawback of plastic wrap is a negative reaction to hard ultraviolet rays. Under their influence, the intermolecular bonds of polymer chains are disrupted, the film loses its plasticity, and cracks under minor loads. Special additives slightly increase the UV resistance of the material, but do not make it completely resistant. There are no problems for the roofing cake, the plastic film is completely protected from the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays, which increases its service life up to hundreds of years. Another plus of this material is that the width of the sleeve can reach three meters, and after cutting, the size of a single film increases to six meters. This makes it possible to trim most mansard roofs completely without seams or with a minimum of them. Fewer joints - fewer points of moisture penetration into the mineral wool layer.

   Polyethylene film

2. Aluminium foil... It is also completely sealed against moisture vapors, but this material has three significant drawbacks. The first is the high cost compared to plastic wrap. The second is low indicators of physical strength. Third - the foil cannot stretch, it breaks through with minor vibrations of the rafter system. This complicates the use of the material; in aggregate, in terms of actual performance indicators, it is much inferior to plastic wrap.

   Smooth aluminum foil 150 microns

3. Hydro-vapor barrier based on coatings with liquid rubber or modified bitumen. When building warm roofs for residential premises, it is rarely used because of an unpleasant odor, but technical or industrial warm rooms can be finished with them.

   Bituminous mastic for roofing

Important. Construction prospect warm roof should be envisaged even at the design stage of the house. This will help pick up optimal sizes rafter legs and the step between them, determine the need for installation and parameters of the slats for the interior decoration of the walls of the attic rooms. Another plus of this approach is that the rafter system is made with a minimum number of various stops and supports, due to which the number of points of possible depressurization of the protective layer is reduced.

How to properly lay hydro-vapor barrier

Highly important point when building a warm roofing cake. Hydro-vapor barrier is designed to restrict the penetration of water vapor from the living quarters of the attic into the thickness of the mineral wool. We have already mentioned above that it is better not to insulate the roof at all than to do it wrong. Practice shows that if technology violations are critical, then the roof system will have to be repaired in 7-10 years. What is a warm roof repair? This is the dismantling of roofing, waterproofing (vapor-permeable wind protection), the removal of thermal insulation. Next, you need to go inside the premises, shoot exterior decoration walls and waterproofing. Final stage- revision of the rafter system and replacement of failed bearing elements.

How should a roofing cake be made to avoid these problems?

Step 1. Inspect the material carefully, place it correctly. All inscriptions should be directed towards the room, and not vice versa. You need to start laying the waterproofing layer of the cake from the ridge part. Roll out the roll so that it is in the middle of the structure. It is necessary to work on a stepladder and with an assistant. Unroll the roll in parts, make a preliminary fixing every 1.5–2.0 m. The final one should be carried out only after the material is completely aligned, there are no folds and kinks.

All labels must face the room

Step 2. Fasten the waterproofing with a construction stapler, the distance between the staples is approximately 25-30 cm.

Fastening the canvas

Important. There is no need to nail the staples too often, this only increases the number of holes. The material is lightweight, fixed without problems.

It is advisable to install the thermal insulation after covering the roof. During roofing work, it is imperative to spread the vapor barrier (windscreen) and secure it with planks. Then fill the slats with a counter-lattice, it will provide ventilation of the under-roof space, condensed water will naturally be removed. Roofing materials are laid after preparation of the vapor barrier layer.

Some builders do the opposite, first they install hydro-vapor barrier inside the premises, and then they lay the insulation and cover the roof. This order of work cannot be considered optimal. The fact is that if mineral wool gets wet due to atmospheric precipitation, it will have to be removed and dried. This greatly complicates the construction of a warm roof and degrades its quality.

Step 3. The second layer is rolled out parallel to the first, you should gradually move down towards the cornice. After alignment, secure the membrane with staples.

Step 4. Very carefully seal up the joints of the hydro-vapor barrier to the chimneys.

The junction of the hydro-vapor barrier to the chimney

For this, use a special sealed tape, never buy low-quality additional materials. If the adhesive tape has insufficient adhesion indicators, then after a short time it will peel off, a large gap will form between the surface of the chimney and the hydro-vapor barrier. It is impossible to notice it in time due to the finish interior walls, and the appearance of visible condensate leaks will already require complex repairs.

Step 5. The overlap between the rows should be within 10 cm, carefully glue them.

The overlap between the rows is glued with tape

Experienced builders advise in these places to nail small slats to the rafters first. What for? Firstly, they will create a gap between the mineral wool and the hydro-vapor barrier, which will improve the conditions for removing the trapped moisture. Secondly, if there are slats under the overlaps, then you can press the adhesive tape strongly, the sealing will be more reliable.

Reiki is nailed

Practical advice. During the installation of the insulation, take measures so that it does not rest against the water vapor barrier. The mineral wool must be fixed in the space between the rafters. This can be done with a rope made of synthetic materials, metal profiles or wooden slats. The fact is that mineral wool over time, under the influence of gravity, bends and sags a little. Unforeseen forces begin to act on the hydro-vapor barrier, it bends, the glued joints are depressurized.

Roof insulation

A roll of vapor diffusion membrane is rolled parallel to the ridge

Overlap between the sheets of the vapor diffusion membrane 10-15 cm

Fixing the canvas

Bonding the joints of the vapor diffusion membrane with self-adhesive tape

Organization of the ventilation gap

In the bars, every 2 meters, breaks of 10 cm are made

Membrane fixed with rails

After completing the work, you need to carefully inspect the roof surface again, fix all the problem areas found. Especially carefully monitor the abutment of the hydro-vapor barrier to various pipes and other engineering structures. Experienced builders recommend finishing the membrane with any silicone sealant before fixing it. They will completely fill the joints in masonry building materials and improve the quality of water vapor barrier. And this, as already mentioned, plays a decisive role in the indicators of the durability of operation and the efficiency of heat saving of buildings.

Video - Waterproofing, insulation, roof waterproofing

Regarding the question of whether or not it is necessary to lay waterproofing under the metal tile, experts give only an affirmative answer. This categoricality is explained by the fact that during the operation of the roofing decking made of this material, condensation forms from the side facing the inside of the attic space. If there is no waterproofing, then the moisture that appears will penetrate into the insulation, which will soon become unusable.

Waterproofing materials for metal roofing

To provide waterproofing, a vapor-permeable under-roofing film is usually used under the metal tile, shown in the photo, which is placed under the roofing. designed to protect the premises located under the roof from precipitation, melt water, dirt and dust. Thanks to the film, moisture does not enter the thermal insulation layer from the outside of the building.

The product intended for roof waterproofing is a three-layer material with a woven reinforcing mesh made of polyethylene fibers. It has a polyethylene lamination on each side.

The variation of the film for waterproofing, depending on the type and thickness of the lamination, is different:

• with fire-resistant qualities;
• UV resistant;
• various colors, etc.

Typically, a roll of waterproofing film looks like a strip 50 meters long, 150 centimeters wide and 140 g / m² specific gravity. It should be noted that the service life of this material is similar to that of metal tiles. Such a film does not lend itself to decay processes, fungus and mold do not form on it. In addition, it belongs to environmentally friendly products, does not have a negative effect on the human body.

It is difficult to underestimate the importance of such a stage in the construction of a house or other structure as a vapor barrier. This term means different ways and means designed to exclude or minimize the ingress of moisture in the form of condensate into the materials of structures. It is important to determine which side to lay the vapor barrier, and the following tips or instructions will help with this.

Insulation materials are the most vulnerable to moisture. Under the influence of moisture, the structure of the majority is disrupted modern heaters, and as a result, their thermal insulation properties fall or disappear. However, this is far from the only threat posed by the penetration of condensate. In a humid and closed environment, fungal organisms begin to develop actively, that is, mold, which is completely unnecessary there. They negatively affect the reliability and durability of supporting structures, especially wooden ones.

Vapor barrier material options

The modern building materials market has a wide range of vapor barrier coatings. They are subdivided according to many characteristics, primarily according to vapor permeability, which is needed to select an installation site for insulation. Also, vapor barrier materials have a fairly large price range, which should also be taken into account when choosing a material.

The main types of vapor barrier are:

1. Traditional vapor barrier film;
2. Film with a layer of aluminum foil;
3. Membrane film.

Material that is equally acceptable for any section of the vapor barrier, be it the roof, walls, one of the floors, or the foundation, alas, does not exist. Therefore, it is extremely important to take into account the structure of the materials to be coated, the purpose of the insulation and the coverage area, and based on this, choose the right material, as prompted by the instructions.

In addition, it is necessary to take into account the features of each type of vapor barrier. If a vapor barrier film made of polyethylene is installed, it will be correct to leave gaps, because in addition to insulation from steam, the film is completely sealed for air, therefore, condensation will form in a closed structure without access to air.

Membrane features

In addition, membranes are divided into pseudodiffusion, diffusion and superdiffusion. They differ in the coefficient of vapor permeability, which is 300 g / m2, 300-1000 g / m2 and more than 1000 g / m2, respectively. Based on this characteristic, the suitability of membranes for insulating certain structures is determined. Pseudo-diffusion ones practically do not allow moisture to pass through, and are most applicable for vapor barrier of the outer layer under the roof. However, an air cushion is needed between the film and the insulation. And such films are completely unsuitable for insulating facades. The pores of the membrane become clogged with external dust, and condensation begins to remain directly on the material.

The remaining types are more versatile due to the larger pore diameter. This makes them harder to clog and leaves no gaps for air.

Correct material placement

The key to achieving good structural insulation is the side of the vapor barrier. The answer to this question also depends on the chosen vapor barrier material:

1. A vapor barrier polyethylene film is laid on either side of the insulation, but there are special vapor-condensate films with roughness for better evaporation of condensate. In this case, the film is laid with the smooth side to the insulation. Such details, as a rule, are determined by the attached instructions.
2. Laying of a vapor barrier from a diffusion membrane, by analogy with a steam condensate film, is performed with the smooth side towards the insulation.
3. Materials containing energy-saving foil should be properly fixed with the foil side inside the room, because it reflects heat.

It is important to consider the following features:

1. The vapor barrier material, whether it is rolled or sheet, is laid only with an overlap, and is fastened with special tape, which excludes the passage of air in the gaps.
2. In no case are damage (breaks, cuts) of the insulating material allowed, even if they formed during or after installation they must be glued.

DIY vapor barrier

The vapor barrier of a room is a do-it-yourself procedure. If you take into account the above rules, you can correctly determine which side of the insulation is laid, and choose the right material, then even without help professional builders, it will be executed reliably.

The most indicative will be a do-it-yourself floor vapor barrier device. Before starting the installation of insulation and vapor barrier, it is strongly recommended to treat the underfloor structures with compounds against wood decay and against insects. Such processing is of particular importance for structures that are closest to the ground and foundation. After that, the logs are installed, and on top of them the rough floor of the first floor slabs is mounted. It is he who will be the basis on which the vapor barrier of the floor is laid.

The selected vapor barrier material is laid on top of the sub-floor, with an overlap of 15–20 centimeters. You can fix it with nails or a construction stapler, but the previously mentioned adhesive tape will be most correct. Places that are difficult to reach, abutments to walls and relief areas of overlap, additional processing with bituminous material is needed, because it is almost impossible to lay a film normally in such places. After the vapor barrier has been laid, the thermal insulation begins to be laid. It is important to lay these materials (mineral wool, expanded polystyrene and others) close to the logs.

The vapor barrier of the floor, however, does not end there. Moisture can enter the insulation from the inside of the house from the first floor. Therefore, when insulating, you need to put another layer of vapor barrier, by analogy with the bottom layer. For this purpose, any type of membrane insulation is most suitable. This layer is also overlapped. On top of it, you can confidently lay the main floor. In this case, you need to leave 1-2 centimeters as a gap.

Conclusion

With the right choice of the side, which insulation is placed to the insulation, as well as the correct choice of the vapor barrier material itself, reliable vapor barrier of the floor will be ensured. And she, in turn, is one of the important components of the overall reliability and durability of buildings.

Laying waterproofing, its features, the choice of materials for its implementation

Important features when laying hydro and vapor barrier must be taken into account when building any structures, otherwise inattention at these stages can lead to sad consequences during the operation of the house

Which side to lay the waterproofing film

Correct waterproofing of a building is one of the most difficult and critical stages of construction or renovation.

If the waterproofing material is laid incorrectly, then after six months the residents of the house will be able to observe an unpleasant picture in the form:

• high humidity in rooms;
• wetting of the insulation, which will very soon collapse from such an effect;
• poor retention of heat inside the house due to the wet insulation layer.

To avoid the above problems, it is initially important to lay the waterproofing correctly, namely, on the side recommended by the manufacturer. Below we will answer the question of which side to lay the waterproofing under different types building materials and in different parts building.

For metal tiles

Under the layer of metal tiles, the waterproofing film is laid with the marking upwards, horizontally from the ridge to the cornice, with an overlap of 15 cm. The film should only be fastened to the logs or rafters using a stapler. It is important to remember about the film sag, which must be under the metal tile layer (about 2 cm). It will help air circulate freely and protect the film itself from premature destruction.

Waterproofing floors in rooms such as bathrooms and kitchens requires maximum precision in the installation of a moisture barrier. In this case, the waterproofing film is attached with the unmarked side to the insulation.

The roof waterproofing stage begins with the installation of insulation. Then a waterproofing film is laid on it in an even layer at the joint. The film is laid with the logo facing up, while the adhesive layer is directed towards the insulation. The ventilation gap must be taken into account for normal air circulation between materials.

To waterproof the walls inside the house, the film is mounted with the logo facing up, with an unmarked surface to the insulation.

Laying the waterproofing film on the walls outside the house is carried out on the insulation, marking up. The film is fixed with a construction stapler with an overlap of 15-20 cm.

To the ceiling

Waterproofing films are laid with the unmarked side to the insulation layer or the ceiling.

Correctly laid waterproofing is a guarantee of a long service life of the insulation. Keep this in mind and take into account the recommendations of the waterproofing film manufacturer during renovation and / or construction.

Which side to lay the waterproofing film

Which side to lay the waterproofing film on? Correct waterproofing of a building is one of the most difficult and crucial stages of construction or renovation. If the waterproofing material

Which side to properly lay the vapor barrier in the house

The tendency to insulate everything has led to the fact that most people absolutely do not understand why a vapor barrier is needed in the house. Well, let's try to find out.

So, the humidity in any living room is higher than on the street - because of this, steam is formed. In the summer, it leaves without hindrance through the ventilation system and a layer of insulation, but in winter there is such a phenomenon that the people say “the walls are crying”.

Vapor barrier concept

This happens when the steam does not find a way out and condensate in the walls or on the ceiling. As a result, the walls become damp, mold forms on them, and the heat-insulating material is saturated with moisture and completely loses its protective properties. And prolonged contact of the walls with moisture will lead to cracks.

In order to avoid such a situation when repairing or building a house, it is necessary to add a vapor barrier layer to the insulation in order to exclude any possibility of steam or moisture getting into the thermal insulation layer, as well as walls and other structural elements of the house. After all, all walls are susceptible to the formation of moisture, and not only the insulation layer, since steam accumulates around the entire perimeter of the housing, which separates the warm zone from the cold one. This includes basements and roofs if they are not heated.

Vapor barrier materials

The cheapest and most short-lived materials for vapor barrier are glassine or polyethylene. But they have long gone into the past, and modern materials have come to replace them:

Roofing membrane options

1. The membrane is perforated. Pierced in it small holes, moisture comes out through them. The vapor permeability coefficient is very low, therefore this material is used only as a subroofing vapor barrier for a cold sloped roof. Indeed, during frost, the vapor will settle directly on the membrane, which will residually reduce its vapor permeability.
2. Porous membrane. The structure of this material is most reminiscent of a filter due to the presence of pores between the fibers. Steam seeps through them. Accordingly, the vapor permeability coefficient is determined by the pore size and the moisture-repellent properties of the walls. But if the environment is heavily polluted, in particular with dust or exhaust gases, then the pores become clogged and the vapor transmission capacity of this material is significantly reduced.
3. Three-layer superdiffusion membranes. The most reliable material, where each layer serves a specific function. This membrane has no holes, so dust or wet sludge will not damage this material. The three-layer membrane is perfect for urban environments, and also performs excellent vapor permeability and moisture protection function.
4. Two-layer film membranes. Used over insulation. It is a relatively inexpensive replacement for a three-layer vapor barrier. The absence of one protective layer slightly impairs the reliability of the membrane; this material is used for internal vapor barrier of roofs and walls.

Instruments

It is quite easy to damage the vapor barrier materials, which in no case should be done, since if the film is damaged, moisture will penetrate into the insulation and over time it will completely lose its protective properties.

During installation, are used wooden slats, sublattices, or a metal, galvanized profile. The material is fixed with self-tapping screws, staples or nails.

If the vapor barrier layer is thin, for example, an ordinary film, then you can use adhesive tape, it reliably connects the joints.

Work process

Floor vapor barrier

It is carried out directly in the premises on the ground floor. This operation is also carried out for rooms in which the humidity is significantly increased.

First, it is required to perform waterproofing - this is a complex of protective measures against the harmful effects of water. On cement screed waterproofing is laid. For floors and walls, a coating material is more suitable - a special moisture-resistant substance that is applied in several layers to structural elements to prevent corrosion or other harmful effects of water.

Behind the waterproofing layer, a layer of insulation is laid, it is covered by a board one inch thick. A vapor barrier layer is laid on top of the board.

When the main material is a film (perforated, polyethylene), then it is fixed with double-sided tape so that it does not sag.

Since vapor barrier is necessary to prevent condensation from entering the insulation, how to properly lay the material with the smooth side out, then it will stop any moisture.

The same should be done with a vapor barrier, which is covered with aluminum on top, the shiny side should be in the room to retain moisture, and the rough one should be applied to the insulation.

The vapor barrier is always overlapped. The distance between the joints should be 15 cm. Between each other, it is glued with tape or special tape, and then fixed with a stapler to the board that is under it.

The best way to seal a floor is to use liquid bitumen rubber. How does it work? Liquid rubber is applied on top of the boards. When it dries, an elastic waterproof film is obtained, which is very well adhered to the floor and does not allow moisture to pass through.

Wall vapor barrier

There are two types - external and internal vapor barrier. The process itself is almost completely similar to the previous one.

For internal vapor barrier along the entire perimeter of the wall, a vapor barrier film is attached using a stapler or galvanized nails. The question often arises of how to properly lay the vapor barrier. If the content of the vapor barrier contains foil, then its shiny edge is inside the room. When using polypropylene material, the rough side is applied to the wall.

The canvases are laid horizontally, starting from the bottom. The joints must overlap, and then, for reliability, they are glued with tape or mounting tape. Galvanized profiles are mounted on top, on which drywall is then laid. There must be ventilation gaps between the drywall and the vapor barrier.

External vapor barrier is a set of measures to protect the insulation from the harmful effects of the external environment, which can come both from the outside and from the inside, through damage to the wall covering.

To protect the insulation from the outside, it is necessary to use a wind-moisture-proof vapor-permeable membrane, strong enough to protect the walls and insulation from wind and moisture, but with the possibility of removing steam outside from the fibrous insulation.

Lay this material starting from the bottom, on the outside of the insulation. The rough structure allows steam to pass through, therefore it should be properly laid against the insulation, and the smooth water-repellent side should remain outside.

Mounted by wooden frame with an overlap, between the joints should be at least 15 cm. And then fix it with a construction stapler. On top of the coating, wooden slats are installed, which carry the outer skin.

Another feature of the water-repellent material is that the lower edge serves to drain the flowing moisture to the basement drain of the building, otherwise the foundation may sink.

Roof vapor barrier

It is also performed both from the outside and from the inside.

If the roof is insulated with a special thermal fiber, then a two-layer vapor-permeable membrane is used to protect against the negative influence of the external environment. The top layer reliably protects the insulation from snow, wind and moisture, as well as in places with a roof defect. The inner vapor-permeable layer of the membrane allows the under-roof condensate to be removed without hindrance.

The material is rolled horizontally in relation to the roof slope and then secured to the rafters with a stapler. At the same time, it is necessary to correctly lay the vapor-permeable membrane with the rough side to the insulation. After all, the smooth side provides a water-repellent effect.

From above, wooden slats with a thickness of 4-5 cm are fixed using nails or self-tapping screws. The slats create a ventilation effect, which is necessary for the weathering of condensate that forms when steam collides with a cold roof surface. Then a lattice of wooden beams or, if the type of roof so requires, a one-piece planking to which the top layer of the roof is attached.

For a non-insulated roof type, a three-layer superdiffuse membrane is used. It protects every element of the structure, as well as the attic itself, from steam and condensation formed by it. In addition, the three-layer membrane retains moisture from negative atmospheric phenomena penetrating through damage to the roof, such as:

It is mounted on wooden slats without taking into account the side. Lay it horizontally with an overlap. They are fixed on top with slats to ensure ventilation, then the roofing condensate will evaporate correctly.

The roof vapor barrier from the inside is done using a two-layer film. It must be remembered that the smooth side provides protection from moisture, and the rough side retains condensation drops until they evaporate. Therefore, it is correct to lay such a vapor barrier with the rough side to the ceilings, the smooth side should go out.

Vapor barrier is a great way to extend the life of the outer fencing structures of a house, as well as to protect the insulation layer from moisture that occurs through condensation or water that penetrates through damage to the outer finishing layer or through damage in the roof.

Which side to the insulation to lay the vapor barrier and waterproofing, instructions for correct installation materials

What is vapor barrier. What materials to use for vapor barrier. How to stack correctly, which side. Process description.

Which side to lay the waterproofing

Often, waterproofing is applied water-repellent side in the direction from which moisture penetration is possible. For example, the waterproofing of the roof is laid on top of the insulation with a water-repellent layer upwards. And on the floor and walls, the water-repellent layer is directed away from the insulation, while waterproofing can be used both inside and outside the building.

How to determine the water-repellent side for different types of waterproofing:

Which side is the waterproofing on the floor

Depending on which side you need protection from moisture, the waterproofing is spread:

• water-repellent side down - when laying under a moisture-absorbing insulation on concrete or earthen floor;
• water-repellent side up - directly under the screed to protect floors in very damp rooms.

Which side to lay the waterproofing on the walls

The principle of waterproofing walls is the same as for floors. If you need to protect insulation or walls from an internal source of moisture, waterproofing is attached inside with a water-repellent side to the room. And to protect the walls from the outside, the moisture-repellent layer should be directed towards the street.

Which side is the waterproofing on the roof

The water-repellent side of the roof waterproofing should face outward from the insulation. Indeed, with its help, the insulation is protected from moisture penetrating from the outside - when precipitation or condensation gets under the roofing. The rough side must absorb moisture from the insulation and evaporate it.

Which side to lay the waterproofing under the metal tile

Metal roofing (from corrugated board, metal tiles), due to its characteristics, requires special waterproofing - special anti-condensation films. This is the only type of waterproofing that is attached with the fleecy side out. It is thanks to the moisture-absorbing outer layer that the metal roof is protected from corrosion - all absorbed moisture quickly drains away without lingering.

Do you need waterproofing on the ceiling

Indoor ceilings are closed only with vapor barrier, waterproofing from the inside of rooms is not used even in a bathroom or sauna. Otherwise, the interior decoration will regularly get wet - after all, the waterproofing will remove condensate from the insulation into the room.

Which side to lay the waterproofing: to the insulation, right

How correctly and on which side of the insulation you need to lay waterproofing and waterproofing film: on the floor, ceiling, roof and walls. Answer from construction experts.

Ivan, Rostov-on-Don asks the question:

I started building a summer cottage, but I don't know which side to put waterproofing on in certain cases. A neighbor on the site had a misfortune. In the spring, water ran from the ceiling, causing significant damage to the newly finished interior decoration. It is clear that his mistake was precisely in the waterproofing of the roof. So I want to know in advance how to do it right so as not to repeat his mistakes. After all, this can lead in the future to the need to dismantle the roof.

The expert answers:

In order to answer in detail the question of which side to lay the waterproofing, you need to know which type waterproofing coating will be chosen in one case or another.

Correct laying of glued waterproofing

The glued waterproofing is characterized by the fact that it has on its basis a thin layer of mastic from a special composition with increased moisture resistance. Roofing material, roofing felt and glassine are just such materials. All of them are either rolled or sheet. Since ordinary cardboard serves as the basis for them, these materials are stacked only on a horizontal surface. Otherwise, damage to the integrity of the material is inevitable, which will lead to leakage.

The glued waterproofing is clamped between the outer layer of protection and the insulated surface itself. It is laid with a protective (usually smooth) side in the direction from which the effect of moisture is expected. You need to know that when covering the roof, the surface is leveled so that the differences are not more than 2 centimeters.

While there is a significant advantage, which is low cost, this type of insulation has a number of disadvantages.

1. Poor resistance to decay.
2. Fragility.
3. Insufficient resistance to strong water pressure.
4. Difficult installation on the roof.
5. The need for heat treatment when laying.

These imperfections can cause the roof to leak over time.

Back to the table of contents

Application of waterproofing film

This material has the best strength of all. It can withstand powerful water pressure. It can be used in any construction work on any surface. This film can be either flat or perforated. Perforated material is thicker and darker in color. Perforation cells are made in the form of small cones and parallelepipeds.

The waterproofing should be laid with the honeycomb side on the desired surface. It doesn't matter if it is a floor or walls, a ceiling or a roof. This film can be applied both on vertical and horizontal surfaces. It has become especially popular in the construction of "green" roofs, as it can withstand a large amount of water.

The flat film is similar to the plastic sheeting used in greenhouses. However, in contrast to it, it is more durable. It can be black or dark gray in color. Since such a coating is very resistant to aggressive environmental influences, it is used to protect walls in basements and foundation.

Such a film can be used to create a ground floor. In this case, it is placed under the foam. In the case of using a heater made of polymer fibers, a film is first put on them, and then the floor. In addition, it is a good waterproofing for swimming pools, fountains, bathtubs and other similar hydraulic structures. Put this unique material can be done by either side.

In order for the house to be reliably protected from moisture, it is important not only to choose roofing and waterproofing materials, but also to correctly mount the roofing pie. In this case, the waterproofing device should be given no less attention than roofing. In this article, we will talk about the installation of waterproofing films and membranes.

Installation of films and membranes

Installation of waterproofing films

[*] In order for the air to pass through the ridge, the waterproofing material should not reach it by 40-50 mm.

Ventilation gap when installing waterproofing film

* Note: Perforated foil MUST be installed with the perforations facing outward. Otherwise, its action, the film will begin to pass moisture into the roof and not release steam from the inside, which will mean the action is directly opposite to its purpose. The roof with such "protection" will begin to leak and rot.

Installation of anti-condensation film

• The film is installed in dry weather after installing the roof truss system and laying the insulation.
• The distance between the rafters should not exceed 1.2 m.
• The anti-condensation film is laid out on the rafters with the absorbent surface down. Moreover, its lower surface should not touch the insulation.
• Fasten with staples or galvanized nails with a wide head.
• Installation of the film is carried out from the eaves to the ridge of the roof with an overlap of horizontal stripes. The overlap of the stripes horizontally is about 15 cm, vertically - no less than 20 cm.
• The joints of the film must fall on the rafters.
• All joints are fastened together with mounting adhesive tape.
• Installation is carried out so that the film is stretched evenly, without folds and wrinkles. There should be 1-2 cm sagging in the center of the rafter spacing. This is necessary to drain condensation from the wooden structural elements.
• the distance between the film and the insulation should be 40-60 mm.
• The lower edge of the foil must ensure that moisture dripping into the drainage gutter is removed.
• After installation, the film covering is fixed with 3x5 cm strips, which are nailed from above along the rafters with galvanized nails. On top of the slats, a batten is installed that matches the specific roofing system.

* Notes on the installation of waterproofing films

• During installation, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of moisture dripping from the upper surface of the film onto the insulation.
• It is necessary to especially carefully isolate the intersections with penetrating structural elements: chimneys and fireplaces, ventilation ducts, antenna posts, etc. At the intersection, a trapezoidal cut is made in the film. The top and bottom flaps are retracted and secured to the penetrating part or to the nearest horizontal batten using a sealing tape. The side flaps slide upward and are secured to the penetration element in a similar manner.
• The adjoining of the material to the roof windows is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's (windows) instructions.
• In valleys and on inclined ridges of hip and hip roofs, the film is first laid along the axis of the ridge or valley.
• Horizontal strips of material on the roof slopes are overlapped from above.

Installation of diffusion and superdiffusion membranes

Diffusion and superdiffusion films and membranes will better protect the house from moisture, as they have high vapor permeability.

Membrane device

Installation of volumetric diffusion membranes

• Volumetric membranes are laid parallel to the eaves overhang on a continuous flooring
• Along the top edge, the material is secured with roofing nails (galvanized with a gasket) or staple brackets.
• The subsequent roll should overlap the attachment points by approximately 7 cm.
• In the overlap zone, both rolls are glued with a special glue.
• A self-adhesive sealing tape (usually made of polyurethane foam) is mounted on top of the film in order to provide waterproofing at the points where the counter-lattice is fastened with nails.
• work can be carried out up to an air temperature of -5 C.

* Notes on the installation of diffusion membranes

Installation of vapor barrier films

Vapor barrier films are attached from the inside of the roof structure, usually either side (except for films with a foil layer).

• The film is attached from the inside of the thermal insulation to the load-bearing wooden elements roof structures.

Installation of vapor barrier film

* Notes on installation of vapor barrier film:

In this article, basic recommendations were given for the installation of roofing films and membranes. Usually, all work on the installation of the roof and its protection is entrusted to professionals, but it will be much easier for you to control the progress of work if you know the main points of the device of hydro and vapor barrier.

Nowadays, metal tiles are often used to decorate the roofs of buildings - the material is reliable and beautiful. However, the durability of any roof and its operational characteristics largely depend on how correctly the under-roof space is made. Roof waterproofing for metal tiles is one of the main elements that should not be forgotten during the construction of a building for any purpose.

Why is it so important to have a waterproofing layer under the roof, including under the one that will be formed with metal tiles? Is it really not enough just one finishing material to drain water? So, waterproofing performs several functions, providing reliable protection for the roof, the space under it and the inside of the building.

The main function is protection of all elements located in the under-roof space from moisture... The roof is far from the easiest construction to perform, and its structure is multi-layered. During construction, wooden boards, bars or metal elements are used as rafters and beams, as well as to create the lathing. Both materials strongly dislike excess moisture. And waterproofing will provide reliable protection of these elements from it.

Attention! If the roof is insulated, then inside its pie there are both heat-insulating and insulating materials. They also do not like moisture and only a waterproofing layer is able to provide them with protection from its effects.

Correctly installed waterproofing will also allow get rid of the accumulation of condensation moisture in the under-roof space... It is formed due to the temperature difference between inside at home and on the street and can also have a negative impact on all materials used in the construction of the roof. Condensation can gradually destroy them and cause leaks and reduce the life of the materials.

On a note! The waterproofing layer will make it somewhat easier to convert the attic into attic room, if such a desire arises from the owners of the house.

Materials used

We found out that waterproofing is the most important element of a roof covered with metal tiles. But what should be a high-quality layer that protects from water? The requirements for waterproofing are as follows:

• it must have increased refractoriness;
• steam is good;
• strength and reliability indicators should be at their best;
• the material should not deteriorate during sudden temperature changes, be afraid of ultraviolet radiation;
• the layer must withstand a certain level of mechanical stress;
• waterproofing should not be afraid of pest attacks or be susceptible to mold development;
• also, she must cope well with her main tasks and not harm human health.

Various types of materials can be used for waterproofing. They all have a lot of differences from each other, including different resistance to light exposure, strength, quality and durability.

For the most part, special under-roofing films with several layers are used for waterproofing metal roofs. There are reinforcing and absorbent layers here. The first provides protection from precipitation, and the second is able to absorb moisture coming from the inside, so that condensation cannot accumulate on the waterproofing and mold foci can form. Also, the material usually has a polyethylene lamination on both sides.

Such a coating has special pores that allow the passage of vapors that form inside the house, but at the same time do not allow moisture coming from outside to spoil the materials from which the roof is made. This feature of the material, called vapor permeability, is especially important if attic converted into an attic and used as a residential one.

Advice! When choosing a material for waterproofing, it is important to pay attention to its service life. It should coincide with the service life of the metal tile so that you do not have to disassemble the roof and re-lay the waterproofing if it fails, and the main roofing material is still usable. The service life of the special film used under the metal tile is 50 years.

Name	Short description
	A film with low vapor permeability, for which it is important to equip the so-called double-circuit ventilation, which will be located between the roofing and waterproofing materials, as well as between the film and the insulating layer of the roof. The gaps between them should be 3-5 cm.The material is ideal for construction cold roof or roofs with a simple structure.
	Material that also requires the creation of dual-circuit ventilation. The film is equipped with a moisture-absorbing fleecy layer that perfectly retains excess water. This is a fairly dense material, rough to the touch, durable and not afraid of exposure to ultraviolet radiation. But the vapor permeability of such a film is low.
	Most best material for waterproofing the roof, since it has increased vapor barrier performance and does not require the arrangement of double-circuit ventilation. It is enough to leave gaps between the film itself and the roof covering. Installation of such a film is simple, it has a long service life. The main disadvantage is the high price.

On a note! Hydraulic barriers that are widespread to this day, made on the basis of bitumen and bituminous mastic, for arranging a roof made of metal tiles, you should not use it.

Of course, for a temporary roof, you can use a cheaper film, but for capital construction it is better to take high-quality, albeit expensive, material. It is not worth saving here and it is better to buy a diffusion membrane coating. All indicators of the purchased film are shown on the edging tape that frames the material. The film is produced in rolls 1.5 m wide and 50 m long. The density of the material is about 140 g / m 2. A striking representative of the material optimal for laying under metal tiles is Izospan AM or AS.

Preparation for work

Laying a waterproofing layer requires preparatory work. These include creating a rafter system designed to preliminary calculations, installation of cornice and end boards. Only after that the waterproofing is laid.

Certain tools are useful for installing waterproofing. This is a tape measure, scissors, a hammer, a marker, a construction stapler, a screwdriver. You will also need to purchase bars and screws.

Styling process

The installation of the layer can be carried out in two ways: in the first case, the film is laid directly on the rafters in strips parallel to the cornice, and is attached with a slight sagging between the rafters. If you need to leave a ventilation gap between the metal tile and the film, then the film is fixed on the overhead counter-lattice. Also, the film can be mounted and perpendicular to eaves... It fits here on the finished crate and is fixed vnatyag.

Let's consider how the installation of a waterproofing layer under a metal tile takes place using a detailed example.

Preparatory work

Step 1. According to the project of the house, a truss system is being built. In this case, it is made of wood, which especially needs protection from moisture, so the question of laying waterproofing is not worth it.

Step 2. Installation of a vapor barrier layer is in progress. The special film is attached with construction brackets around the perimeter of the building under the rafters and directly to them. Work is carried out on the inside of the roof. The roll is neatly rolled out and the film is mounted on its intended place.

Step 3. Separate strips of vapor barrier must be laid with an overlap on each other, while all the overlaps, as well as the joints of the material with all structural elements roofs (pipes, ventilation, etc.) are hermetically glued with adhesive tape.

Step 4. On top of the film, counter-lattice slats are nailed to the frame - it is on them that the entire interior decoration of the attic space will be fixed.

Step 6. The thermal insulation is placed on the vapor barrier between the rafters. Laying is done very tightly in order to reduce the number of cold bridges. This completes the preparatory work.

Laying the waterproofing layer

After all the preparatory work has been completed, the waterproofing film is installed. In this case, the Tekafol Super membrane is used as a material that protects against moisture.

Step 1. A roll of membrane is rolled out on the surface of the insulation along the eaves of the roof. It is important to lay the material on the right side, which will be determined by the installation instructions for the selected type of film (usually the material is fixed with that side to roofing where the edging tape has a bright and rich color). The film is laid with slight sagging (about 2 cm). This measure will allow you to get rid of excessive tension and rupture of the material in the event of a sharp temperature drop.

Attention! The film should be installed on the right side initially. It is impossible to twist and turn it over during installation, as it will lose some of its waterproofing properties.

Step 2. The film is fixed to wooden rafters using a construction stapler. You can use wide head nails instead.

Step 3. Next, a second strip of waterproofing is spread. It fits with an overlap on the first one (15 cm). If the angle of inclination of the slope does not exceed 30 degrees, then the overlap between the individual layers should not be less than 25 cm. The joints can be additionally glued with double-sided adhesive tape.

Step 4. The second strip of the waterproofing membrane is fixed. Thus, the film covers the entire heat-insulating material. In places where pipes, hatches and other structural elements are located, it is required to securely fix the material. It is also important to remember that the waterproofing layer is not brought to the ridge of the roof - there should remain a ventilation gap of 5 cm.It will be covered with a ridge strip.

Step 5. Along the rafters, directly through the waterproofing film, lathing bars with a cross section of 4x5 cm are attached with self-tapping screws.They additionally fix the film on the rafters.

Step 6. Across the lathing bars, counter-lattice bars are attached with a step of 35 cm - it must correspond to the step of the metal tile. Further, the installation of the tiles themselves is carried out directly.

It is worth remembering that a gap of 5 cm must be observed between the tiles and the waterproofing. Otherwise, the required air circulation will not be ensured. There may be no gap above the insulation if a high-quality diffusion membrane is used.

Video - Installation of a hydro-barrier

Rules for installing a hydro-barrier film

When working with waterproofing, it is important to remember several installation rules:

Cold roofs - do you need waterproofing?

The answer to this question will be unequivocal - a waterproofing layer is needed in any case. But since in this case the insulation is in roofing pie will be absent and will be provided good ventilation materials, you can use roofing material or glassine, which will be cheaper than expensive film. But in this case, the formation of a ventilation gap between the roofing material and the metal tile is required.

Waterproofing is a very important layer in the roofing pie of a metal roofed roof. They should not be neglected, so that later there will be no problems with leaks or a reduction in the service life of the materials used to create the roof.

Video - Installation of metal roofing

When installing a roof, the most important issue is waterproofing. It protects the wooden parts of the roof from rain and melt water. Prevents the destructive effect of condensation under the roof space. Provides reliable ventilation and protection of insulating materials from getting wet.

In addition, the waterproofing layer acts as a wind protection. The penetration of cold air underneath significantly increases the cost of heating.

With the development of building technologies, roofs of private buildings have changed significantly. New roofing materials have emerged that require different technologies to protect against water. However, along with modern technologies, there are still cheaper materials for roof waterproofing.

There are two commonly used materials:

• Waterproofing with roofing material
• polyethylene, reinforced hydro-barrier

Roofing material was the traditional material for protecting wooden roof structures. This is a cardboard impregnated with bitumen, which was attached to the rafters with an overlap of adjacent strips of 10-12 cm. To protect the joints from moisture penetration, they were coated with molten bitumen.

Installation on the roof is carried out by at least 3 performers (two on the roof and one below). Roofing material is attached to the roof frame with nails with wide galvanized heads. Wavy slate was laid on top. Thanks to the waves, the slate was ventilated, which prevented the accumulation of moisture under it.

It was a simple and very affordable roof method that can be found today. However, this method has a number of disadvantages that significantly affect the service life. supporting frame roofs.

The basis of the roofing material is paper, which in itself significantly reduces its service life under the influence of moisture. The joints of the bituminous strips crack after 4-5 years from the temperature drop and begin to allow moisture to pass through. This is caused by the aging of bitumen, as a result of which intermolecular bonds are destroyed.

When installed on rafters, bituminous roofing material can easily break from a slight load. In addition, the roll of this waterproofing is not lightweight, which also complicates its installation at a height.

With the use of a hydro-barrier made of reinforced polyethylene film, it belongs to modern technologies. It would not be entirely correct to call this material a film, because it has micro-holes for ventilation. It is more like a membrane than a film. With a small thickness, such a material has high strength and low weight.

It's important to know! When laying the hydro-barrier, it is necessary to take into account which side to mount the strips of material on the rafters.

Lay the film on the rafters with the side without inscriptions or in accordance with the instructions that come with the kit. Often the installation sides are indicated on the hydro-barrier. In this case, the condensate will not be able to seep out pos. If confused, the water will pass through the membrane to the thermal insulation. Wet mineral wool will lose its insulating properties.

Laying steam and waterproofing under metal tiles or corrugated board

Roof waterproofing for corrugated board or metal roof tiles requires technology. Only in this case is their service life guaranteed for 50 years.

The installation technology is as follows: start laying the first strip of the hydro-barrier from the bottom of the roof. The roll is rolled across the rafters and attached to them with staples or galvanized nails with a wide head.

The next strip is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm on the previous one and is also attached to the rafters. The joints between the two sheets at the vertical joints are fastened with a wide butyl-rubber tape. Two sheets are fixed with galvanized nails to the rafters by attaching a counter rail 20-40 mm wide

It's important to know! It is not worthwhile to mount the hydraulic barrier tightly. It is recommended to fasten the film between the rafters with a sag of no more than 20 mm.

Counter battens provide a technological gap for ventilation of the space between the corrugated board and the waterproofing. When the installation of waterproofing on the roof is completed, the lathing is installed for fixing the corrugated board or. Reiki wooden lathing with a section of 20 x 40 mm, fasten with nails in the direction perpendicular to the rafters.

A mansard roof or roof of any other building implies a step of fastening the slats of 50 cm. Previously, all counter-battens and lathing beams are treated with an antiseptic solution. It prevents the formation of fungi and protects the tree from insects. After installing the slats, you can install the corrugated board.

Particular attention should be paid to waterproofing around chimneys, ventilation and air ducts. According to the technology, the polyethylene membrane is glued to the chimney in order to rainwater and condensation did not get under the roof. Butyl rubber double-sided tape is used as an adhesive material. In this case, the overlap should be at least 10-15 cm.

In order to additionally secure the waterproofing around the chimney from overheating, it is recommended to lay a layer of thermal insulation between the brickwork and the asbestos pipe. It is also worth noting that the waterproofing membrane can withstand heating up to 120 degrees C, and double-sided tape is resistant to temperatures of + 70 degrees.

Correct waterproofing of a building is one of the most difficult and critical stages of construction or renovation.

If the waterproofing material is laid incorrectly, then after six months the residents of the house will be able to observe an unpleasant picture in the form:

• high humidity in rooms;
• wetting of the insulation, which will very soon collapse from such an effect;
• poor retention of heat inside the house due to the wet insulation layer.

To avoid the above problems, it is initially important to lay the waterproofing correctly, namely, on the side recommended by the manufacturer. Below we will answer the question of which side to lay the waterproofing under different types of building materials and in different parts of the building.

For metal tiles

Under the layer of metal tiles, the waterproofing film is laid with the marking upwards, horizontally from the ridge to the cornice, with an overlap of 15 cm. The film should only be fastened to the logs or rafters using a stapler. It is important to remember about the film sag, which must be under the metal tile layer (about 2 cm). It will help air circulate freely and protect the film itself from premature destruction.

On the floor

Waterproofing floors in rooms such as bathrooms and kitchens requires maximum precision in the installation of a moisture barrier. In this case, the waterproofing film is attached with the unmarked side to the insulation.

On the roof

The roof waterproofing stage begins with the installation of insulation. Then a waterproofing film is laid on it in an even layer at the joint. The film is laid with the logo facing up, while the adhesive layer is directed towards the insulation. The ventilation gap must be taken into account for normal air circulation between materials.

On the walls

To waterproof the walls inside the house, the film is mounted with the logo facing up, with an unmarked surface to the insulation.

Laying the waterproofing film on the walls outside the house is carried out on the insulation, marking up. The film is fixed with a construction stapler with an overlap of 15-20 cm.

To the ceiling

Waterproofing films are laid with the unmarked side to the insulation layer or the ceiling.

Correctly laid waterproofing is a guarantee of a long service life of the insulation. Keep this in mind and take into account the recommendations of the waterproofing film manufacturer during renovation and / or construction.