As Ostap Bender would say, a shower for a summer residence is not a luxury, but a means of hygiene. Moreover, a tool of paramount importance: according to medical statistics, people who postpone washing after a weekend at the dacha before arriving home turn to doctors for skin and gastrointestinal diseases 12% more often than others; there is no data of a similar nature for other types of health disorders.

You can buy a simple country shower, designed only for summer weather, for 10,000 rubles. Having spent an amount 2-3 times less, or even from scrap materials, you can build a warm shower with your own hands, suitable for bath procedures from the beginning to the end of the summer season. In this case, a full range of amateur products is found - from a slimy kennel, the dreams of a greedy dermatologist (there will be a lot of patients, they will give money) through completely functional, hygienic and even almost not spoiling the appearance of a building site to structures made of, for example, construction waste, at the sight which the experienced designer nods his head in understanding, see fig.

But, which is characteristic, there is no medical correlation with the type of shower - purchased, of different price categories, or homemade. "Super-duper firm" for 70-100 "tyr", with automation and touch-remote control can turn out to be a breeding ground for infection, and concocted from the shower head in the country will faithfully guard the cleanliness and health of the owners for many years and decades.

DIYers with manufacturers are not to blame here; and those, and others do not take efforts, skills and considerations. Simply - no one really knows how to do it, dacha shower. If any regulations his devices are, then neither the builders, nor the plumbers, nor the orderlies know anything about them. It is clear that the dacha shower needs to be done correctly in essence, i.e. so that it would wash, not contaminate it, and so that it would not kill the earth with the contents of wastewater and spoil the crop, but how? It's dark here, like in a Khrushchev bathroom when the plugs were knocked out.

For example, the minimum volume of a cesspool is 2 cubic meters. m, but this is at the standard volume of flow, and at the dacha it is several times less. The biochemistry of the cesspool is nasty, but well balanced; the pit should neither overflow nor dry out. Modern (dry closets) allow to reduce the volume of the cesspool and the frequency of calls to the toilets, but fundamentally, the processes in the cesspool do not change. What volume and design do you need an open-air shower rake? I have no idea, as Barack Obama would say. The same applies to other units and structural elements. In fact, whoever wants to make a dacha shower competently, they pull at the rate from there, then from there, and there - maybe they all come together and come together. Or maybe they will disperse, and the byaka will come out.

Well, let's try to include something that mother nature of the still American president cheated a little, in order to say at the end: “Well, at least I’ve found a good ideal!”. We will design for ourselves Summer shower based on the principles:

• Hygiene - neither the shower itself, nor the water for it should harm those who were washed, only benefit.
• Environmental friendliness - runoff from the shower should not harm the environment either in the near (in the form of compliance of the crop from the site with sanitary standards) or in the distant (in the form of water quality from local water supply sources) perspective, in space and time.
• Practicality, it’s functionality - should not be something that is possible, but it is pleasant and useful not only to freshen up in the heat, but also to wash in any weather from the first to the last trip to the country.
• Aesthetics - a shower cabin for a summer residence should at least not spoil landscape design site, but, preferably, organically fit into it. An alternative is an invisible shower, collapsible or not striking.
• Economy - the construction of a shower should take a minimum of labor, materials and financial costs, not to the detriment of any of the previous qualities.

We will use the existing rules and regulations, but for verification, so as not to fantasize nonsense. And we also use a good bit of knowledge about physical and chemical processes in nature and the soul. Data in regulatory documents- the tip of the iceberg and, since there is no single set of them for country showers, you will have to turn to the basics. To build a shower correctly, let's go from one critical node to another; what is in the middle will then be easier. Really - in the following sequence:

1. Base.
2. Drain and rake.
3. The choice of design.
4. Possibility of combining functions (shower combined with toilet, etc.)
5. Floor, pallet and platform.
6. Cab - frame, walls, etc.
7. Diffuser (watering can), pipelines, valves.
8. Additional equipment - water heater, cabin heating, pumping.

What does all-weather mean?

Item 3 of the list above is especially important for medical reasons. If it is violated, the case no longer smells of itchy ankles and shoulders, but such things as pneumonia. Heated showers don't just mean hot or warm water.

Let's say it's +13 outside, but you need to wash yourself. The cabin has cooled down to the same temperature: there will only be any sense from insulation (yes, readers will forgive the involuntary pun) if there are heat sources inside the washing machine. Without them, you will have to shiver and shiver for 2-5 minutes, until the heat of the spray from the watering can heats up the booth. In the meantime, and hot water may run out, the tank is not still.

So, you need to heat not only the water in the tank, but also the air in the shower. It is highly desirable to create a warm island in a light cabin with large gaps at the bottom and top. How to achieve this, we'll see when it comes to additional equipment; for now, as they say, we'll tie a knot.

Children's question

Why shower separately? In the apartment he is together. Then, that summer cottages are not equipped with sewerage. Here it is appropriate to recall the rule: the cesspool should be at least 15 m away from residential buildings. The point is not only in the miasms, but also in the fact that the filtrate from the cesspool can wash the foundation of the house with all that it implies. Arrange a shower room in country house still possible. Then, if the house is heated, then the shower will be all-season.

Note: a bioseptic, which gives almost no harmful vapors, under certain conditions it can be moved 4-5 m to the house. But this topic already refers to the device of country toilets.

Country shower device

Base

When zero is not needed

The need for a zero cycle of summer cottage-shower work disappears in the following cases, see fig. below:

• When used compact portable shower, on the left in Fig.
• If the shower with adjacent outbuildings is ready-made modular, in the center in Fig.
• If the cabin is on a frame made of plastic pipes (propylene or PVC) with soft casing, on the right in the same place.

A compact shower in a suitcase (there is a large selection on sale) is used in any random place, but is inconvenient in terms of heating water; it is difficult to adapt a water heater to it, and compactness with mobility is immediately lost. Capacity - rinse one or two. To this, a soul is not needed and a rake is not necessary - there is not enough water in the tank, and no matter who and no matter how they washed, the local ecology will digest such a burst.

Modular showers are designed to be installed directly on the ground. They are equipped with adjustable feet, which, when stationary, allows you to compensate for the current movement of the soil. Modular common areas are more familiar to citizens from public dry closets, but, in addition to them, modular showers, also kitchens, shelters, etc. are produced, so that a full-fledged utility block can be recruited from the modules. This pleasure is by no means cheap, more modules are used to organize the conveniences of professional mobile teams. A rake is not required, you just need to change the filler of the built-in septic tank in a timely manner.

The frames of soft showers are put on stakes made of reinforcing rods driven into the ground. If the frame is made of PP water pipes, then assemble it using standard connectors, but one size larger, and not by soldering, but on self-tapping screws. The cabin turns out to be collapsible and quite reliable, because the frame is lightly loaded and absolutely maintainable. Sheathing is most often made of colored tarpaulin: in the heat, then it is not so parked in the cabin, in the cool it is warmer, and the tarpaulin, unlike the film, does not stick disgustingly to the wet body. Such a design will withstand a 12-point earthquake, as long as the earth itself does not disappear from under the shower. A rake is needed, so soft showers are not particularly popular: if you dig a hole, then it's better to make a foundation, and put something more impressive and neat on it.

Plastic

It is possible to build a shower cubicle from light, resilient and chemically resistant materials with rigid sheathing (see below) without a foundation, even on highly heaving ground. So that it does not overturn, in this case, 30-40 cm of a non-porous pillow is enough. Specifically - sand and gravel bedding in layers of equal thickness. The thickness of the pillow is approximate, in fact, the upper humus layer of the soil is removed to the underlying rock: loam, sandy loam. Summer cottages on meter-long chernozems do not stand out, so you don't have to dig very deeply, but still - 30 cm, of which 15 is sand and 15 is gravel, this is the minimum. Suddenly, after the winter, it still skews, the booth can be moved aside, the pillow can be leveled, and put back as it was.

Note: a plastic shower is attached to the ground with the lower ends of the pipes, put on reinforcement bars driven into the ground, like a soft shower. But there is a difference - since the structure is permanent, the stakes are driven into the ground at least 0.35 m below the underside of the pillow, or better, if local conditions allow, to the depth of freezing, then seasonal distortions are excluded.

Under the tree

A shower made of wood, in principle, can also be put simply on a pillow, but double impregnation of wood with a water-polymer emulsion, biocides and then - treatment with hot bitumen will protect the support frame and the floor from rotting for 3-10 years, depending on local conditions. Wood treated in this way can keep its strength for 30-40 years, but mold fungi with bacteria will get to where they get their feet and rub against which bodies rub, much faster. Therefore, a shower cabin made of natural lumber should be raised above the ground by at least 20-25 cm, and for a hygienic cesspool (see below) - by 35-40 cm.

an example of the implementation of the foundation for a country shower

The means to ensure these requirements have been known for a long time - columnar or pile foundation... For such a light and free "wagering" wooden structure, for reasons of economy, the second is preferable. Expensive to buy to anything, it is better to do with homemade hammered. Simply - with lengths of pipes with a diameter of 60-150 mm (available) with ends flattened into a spear. Further - a sledgehammer or a home-made woman (it is much easier to work with it), and - to the estimated freezing depth for a given area.

The location of the piles is 1 per corner and every complete or incomplete 1.5 m of the contour. After cutting the protruding ends with a grinder along the hose level, anchor bolts (M12 - M16) are welded to the piles; they are put on and attracted by nuts with washers 40-60 mm in diameter, the lower support frame - grillage.

An alternative option, again, depending on the availability of materials, is drill piles from asbestos-cement pipes. The wells pass to the same freezing depth with a hand drill. It is very good if there is a camouflage nozzle for it, with which wells are drilled under the strip-pile foundation on heaving soils... Reinforcement of piles and pouring them with concrete are also similar to this case. Asbestos-cement piles are cut in height with a grinder with a stone circle before reinforcement and pouring. Anchor bolts are bricked up to a depth of 120 mm.

Metal

For a shower room on a metal frame, the foundation is made the same as for a wooden one: if the wood rots, then the metal rusts. In this case, hammered metal piles are preferable, and the grillage from a channel 50-80 mm is welded to them.

Under the brick

A brick shower in the country is a rarity, laborious and expensive. But it has a valuable advantage - it is easy to heat it up. It is enough to pass the return from the tank to the water heater through the old thin-walled heating radiator(see below), and in a closet with walls in half a brick, insulation with 30-mm packing foam, dimensions 1.2x1.2 m in plan and a ceiling height of 2.2 m at +8 outside in 4-5 hours it will be +22.

Brick buildings are not resilient, heavy, therefore a brick shower foundation is needed strong and stable. Since the structure in this case is small, a slab monolithic foundation turns out to be optimal in terms of labor intensity and costs. Its device is simple: a solid (necessarily!) reinforced concrete slab with a thickness of 170-300 mm and with an extension of 0.3-0.5 m beyond the building contour, this will be a blind area.

Concrete grade of great importance does not have, M150 is enough. Reinforcement - a cage with a mesh (150-200) x (300-400) mm from a 12 mm bar. If it is planned to equip the compact cesspool described below, then it is better to pour the slab on the spot, circling the recess for the barrel with a formwork.

Rake

As already mentioned, in order to maintain the biochemistry in the waste pit, which is necessary for the disposal of wastewater to a naturally processed level of pollution, the moisture content in them must be kept within certain limits. For example, the instructions for branded fillers for septic tanks clearly indicate: do not fill, it will sour and smell. Do not let it dry out, the microflora will die and stop working altogether.

The fact that the drain from the shower is too liquid for the general cesspool in the country is obvious. But it matters too chemical composition: household organic matter, a nutrient medium for beneficial bacteria in the pit, it is practically nonexistent. Unless someone will use a shower, like Polygraph Polygraphich Sharikov from Dog's Heart, a toilet. But in an excess of destructive alkalis for them (from soap) and detergents (surfactants, surfactants), from shampoos, gels, etc.

Therefore, bringing drains from the shower and toilet in the country into a common pit is a gross mistake from the point of view of biochemistry. The kitchen can still be combined with the toilet, but the shower must be taken separately into a special pit. In a city apartment, the matter is different: there, while the drains reach the treatment facilities, everything will mix and react so much that only the percentage of simple connections and elements. In any case, it is impossible to build a sewerage system separate for the bathroom and toilet in the city.

Note: In what abominations do researchers not sometimes have to delve into, eh? But it’s necessary and useful.

Here the question arises: so, take out the extra 2 cubes of soil? Since the septic tank does not process the shower drain? And a hundred square meters of land disappears: from the harvest from the vicinity of a simple pit, the consumer supervision screeches out with a squeal when the analysis is done.

It is not at all necessary, if we take into account the heating time of the water, the resulting maximum frequency of using a country shower and the volume of water in the tank (there can be no more one-time runoff). That is, we are faced with 2 tasks: the first is to bring the runoff into the soil little by little, so that organic acids from the soil can neutralize alkalis and decompose detergents. The second is to bring them into the soil below the fertile layer, so as not to kill the soil micro-living. And organic acids, a product of her vital activity, will seep from above.

The calculations, for the description of which, unfortunately, there is no place, show that the flow is 100 l / h or 50 l in one gulp (for country shower for normal users, this is, as they say, above the roof), you need to bring it into the ground at a depth of at least 2 times the thickness of the humus layer. Conclusion: we will be helped out by an ordinary 200-liter barrel with a height of 850 mm. A fertile layer of 40 cm is not a dacha, this is Eldorado. A smaller plastic barrel will also go, if only its volume is not less than a one-time discharge (we will take the tank capacity for it), and the height is not less than 2 thicknesses of humus.

Note: if you feel sorry for the barrel, the pit shell can be taken from old tires. Only then will it be necessary to periodically pour bleach into the pit, in the resulting side cavities with frequent use waste water will stagnate.

From theory to practice

It is not difficult to arrange a compact and cheap cesspool for a shower from a barrel. First, we dig a foundation pit according to the diagram in Fig. to a depth equal to the height of the barrel. The distance from the spout of the siphon to the neck of the barrel is not critical, the plastic corrugated hose will reach. Then we cut off the bottom and the lid with the neck from the barrel. The bottom is no longer needed, but we cut off a segment from the cover to make an inspection hatch; it will need a tight cover.

We install the barrel in the pit, fill it back with soil. Next is the filter. We pour fine gravel into the cesspool with a layer of 15-20 cm. In a bucket of water we stir 1-1.5 kg of any clay to "milk", and pour the filling evenly with a thin stream until the clay milk covers it. A day or two later, when the water is gone and the clay dries up, stir up the filter layer, often thickly piercing it with pointed armature. It remains to weld the lid, and after the construction of the shower, insert it into the neck and seal the siphon spout with construction foam. You can insert a tee into the neck and feed the drain from the kitchen here, in terms of bio- and simple chemistry it is more similar to a shower than to a toilet.

Note: if construction is underway nearby, and the concrete mixer is free, you can knead porous concrete, from which filters are made when building wells. Then the backfill with clay impregnation is not needed - 2-3 buckets of porous mix are simply dumped into the cesspool and leveled.

Smell from such a cesspool is structurally excluded. It is convenient to inspect and, suddenly it is necessary, to clean it, but the cost of labor and money is nothing at all; usable area, except for the one under the shower, is not withdrawn from household use. At the author's dacha, the shower drain from the barrel has been working properly for almost 20 years. It was not necessary to clean it even once (they go to the dacha on weekends and spend their holidays there). The inside of the barrel was overgrown with a dense layer of some kind of chemical compounds, but it did not corrode through and through. Fruits from plants in the immediate vicinity of the pit were repeatedly submitted for analysis to the sanitary station, which invariably showed their complete suitability for food. For a test, they hammered a well for water 5 m from the pit - the water turned out to be good.

More about shower and toilet

This type of cesspool shower can be installed in a unit with a toilet. For the latter, by the way, if the summer cottage is summer, it is not at all necessary to make a rather complicated and expensive septic tank, not to mention the antediluvian two-cube pit. You can do without a toilet cesspool at all by arranging a powder closet. More precisely, a powder-toilet, because it's a French notion. Sortie French way out; toilet, respectively - latrine. The powder closet can be used only in the warm season, but it was the study of the processes in it that led to the invention of dry closets. However, this is again about country toilets, which require a separate analysis.

What will the shower be like?

Now that we know how much work is needed to equip the area for the shower, and in what cases it is possible to do without them, it's time to decide - what kind of shower are we going to do? Or buy? In general, the choice is as follows:

• Compact portable shower.
• Street extension to the house.
• Garden cabin.
• Capital shower.
• Household complex in the shower.
• Shower room in the house.

Compact - not compact

You don't have to carry a portable shower with you wherever you go. Nobody bothers to use it constantly in one place. In the same way, no one bothers to fill the wineskin hot water heated over a fire or in a stove just before washing. The only additional requirement is a fence.

Shower enclosures for mobile showers are sold complete with the shower itself or as an option. But, frankly, the game is not worth the candle - it is easier to make a shower fence yourself. The simplest, but very convenient option is a semicircular rail attached to the wall of the house, see fig., And a curtain. It is not necessary to bend a stainless steel pipe, you can do with a propylene water pipe, put on all the same pins from reinforcing rods. Then the fence will be completely collapsible. It is better to sew the curtain from a colored tarpaulin (propylene is also preferable); why - stated above.

Outside cab

Users of "stationary" showers sooner or later come to the conclusion that the water wineskin needs to be replaced with a tank: 6-12 liters and not enough for one, but definitely not enough for a family. Now we have an outdoor shower cabin, and there is a drain problem. Usually it is solved by draining water down a slope or a gutter to a flower bed, on the basis that flowers do not eat. But from the point of view of respect for nature, this, of course, is wrong. And the earth, if the shower is used often, can turn sour, and then the whole flower bed will disappear. It is better to choose the time, at the lower edge of the drain slope (usually this is the blind area of ​​the house) to mold a socket-catcher from cement, and bury a 40-mm PVC sewer pipe in the ground to the drain pit. For the one described above, one 3rd pipe is enough; its slope is needed 4-10 cm / m.

If you want to quickly and simply replace the curtain with something more impressive, then the same arched pipe on the wall will help out. How the simplest one with a rigid sheathing is made from a booth with a curtain is schematically shown in Fig. Within the simplified blind area of ​​the building, only 60 cm wide, it turns out to be quite convenient (45 cm aisles, a semicircular sink in terms of 60x120 cm) and completely unattended booth. The material of the sheathing and the fence is any material that is sufficiently rigid and allows for some bending. Polycarbonate is best; we will talk about him later. In this case, the fence of the labyrinth entrance can be bent, having received a completely elegant extension.

Shower in the garden

However, there is no need to rush to dig and attach: there is another simple option - a garden shower. This is a cabin on a light frame with a soft opaque skin, see fig. Its zest is that the cabin is put in a new place on each visit, or rearranged once a week. It is enough to carry it 2-3 m away from the previous one, and the local ecology will quite tolerate the increased runoff.

Capital

A capital shower differs from a simple cabin not only in that it stands on the foundation; it, as we will see below, may not exist. There must be a locker room in a capital shower, although exhibitionism in certain circles is now, if not the norm, then certainly fashion. However, it is not necessary to demonstrate when washing a model of swimsuits, coupled with graceful forms or a relief torso, as shown in advertising photographs.

Washing completely without clothes is necessary primarily for sanitary and hygienic reasons. The reason is dust in the fabric and the ribs of clothing. Having become limp, and even in contact with a wet body, it can cause skin diseases just in those places where you least want them. According to the rules of field work in countries that widely use seasonal agricultural migrant workers, i.e. unaccustomed to dig in the ground, after the shift, after washing, you must definitely put on a clean underwear. Outerwear can be left working, but linen - only fresh. In any case, it is uncivilized to be like the ancient nomads, for whom mud up to a centimeter thick is not yet mud, and then it falls off by itself.

How a shower with a changing room should be arranged is shown in fig; dimensions - in cm. A curtain protects clothes from splashing, and a lattice, wooden or made of propylene pipes on self-tapping screws, protects the shoes from getting wet, see below. In this case, the curtain is more suitable from a film - a tarpaulin that is not blown by the breeze will dry for a long time, and if it is not propylene, but cotton, then it can be wet.

Note: for people of average height and complexion, so that, bending over for the dropped soap, not to knock out the door and not break the walls with the fifth point, the dimensions of the washing room in the plan can be reduced to 80x100 cm. Then the entrance, where the curtain hangs, will be a large side.

All in one

The change house at the dacha plays a different role than at the construction site and field work. In any case, the cesspool should be carried from the housing as far as the conditions on the site allow. And having a meal, since we have escaped from the bustle of the city, is more pleasant and healthier in the open air. Therefore, a kitchen with a veranda is often included in the dacha shed along with a shower and toilet.

Limiting, so to speak, device circuits country cabins are shown in Fig. The left one is the simplest, 1.8x1 m, on concrete blocks without a foundation. Toilet - powder closet or bio; the dressing room can be used as a shelter in case of bad weather. Appointment - temporary, for the period of construction of the house.

On the right is a permanent change house. The foundation is slab, see above. Walls - 75 mm aerated concrete + 12 mm on each side for finishing. The roof is flat sloped slate. A large shower room can also be used as a refuge if there are many people; the size of the kitchen allows you to build or install a wood-burning stove. It is being built, with the average skill of the master and the presence of a handyman, over the weekend, excluding the technological break for the strengthening of concrete and the time for finishing work.

Note, joke: do not rush to build something like that, and then who knows when your hands will reach a real house.

In the House

A country shower in the house, since it is in a living room, must meet all the requirements of sanitation and hygiene. This is a separate topic, some of the features in relation to the dacha will be discussed further in the course of the presentation.

Floor, pallet, lattice

Floor

The floor in the dacha shower is made of wood; capital, as in big house, too time consuming and expensive. In a cab with dimensions up to 1.5x1.5 m, if a grooved board is taken for flooring, logs are not needed. If the booth is not square, the floorboards are cut to the size of the short side, so it will be stronger.

So that the tree does not rot from moisture, it, of course, needs to be processed. Nowadays, this can be done without complex and time-consuming operations such as scalding with bitumen, two-layer painting with oil zinc or titanium white, etc. The preparation of boards for the cabin floor is reduced, after sawing to size, to a double treatment with a water-polymer emulsion; the second treatment can be done one hour after the first.

Then - drying. At temperatures above 22 in the shade and drying in direct sunlight, the boards will be ready for later in the evening if they have been processed in the morning; at 15 degrees and drying in the shade - by the next morning.

After drying, the wood is impregnated with any wood biocide. You just need to read on the packaging whether the preparation is intended for impregnation under pressure, this is not suitable. It is advisable to impregnate in the sun in warm weather, letting the boards warm up for an hour or two.

3-4 hours after impregnation, you can apply acrylic varnish in 2 layers. The first one will dry out in the evening, then you can varnish it again. The next morning, the floor can be laid. Thus, if you choose a fine day, with a floor that will last at least 10 years, you can handle it over the weekend, and there will still be time.

Pallet

Shower trays, if you do not know this yet, are low and high. The former fit into a cutout or recess in the floor, while the latter are actually a standing bathtub: they are installed on legs and equipped with a screen. Both are in size from 800x800 to 1580x1580mm straight and angular, rounded or faceted, as well as round, oval and complex shapes. Made of acrylic or enamelled sheet steel. The former are more expensive and more durable; the latter are cheaper.

For a summer cottage with a separate shower on the territory, the shower tray needs a straight, low one, see the figure on the right. The most popular size and material is steel 1000x1000 mm. Its advantages:

• Ease of installation and sealing: a sausage of construction foam is applied along the contour of the cutout and a pallet is placed right there, while it is not frozen; squeezed out excess foam is removed.
• Saving wood and labor: by making the cabin support frame (see below) the width of the inside to the outer size of the pallet bath, we get rid of the flooring of most of the floor. It is enough to upholster the top of the frame with scraps of boards so that the pallet does not fall into the hole.
• Cheapness: with a relatively low intensity of use of a country shower, a steel pallet with careful use will last at least 15 years.
• Durability in summer cottages: acrylic pallets in summer cottages do not withstand the design life, because they are afraid of abrasive wear by sand, from which you cannot go anywhere outside the city.

Note: if the shower is with a changing room, you can take a pallet 800x1000, see above. If at the dacha there are people with above average corpulence, then the best pallet will be 1200x1200

A country shower in the house requires a high pallet. The reason is that the cutout will weaken the floor, unless it is formed according to the complete pattern. And even then, slotting and concrete work will take a lot of time and effort, plus beat the channel for the drain pipe. Suddenly, the house has not yet been built, it is also not necessary to lay a low pallet in a project with a wooden floor: the installation step of the lag turns out to be too large for a flooring of this size.

It is more profitable to purchase a high pallet complete with a cabin and a screen. Then it is better to take a corner shower: a shower enclosure of the same overall dimensions takes up much less useful area in a small room and turns out to be even more convenient than a straight shower.

As for the installation, it is advisable to do it yourself. Firstly, the departure of the master out of town will be too expensive, for him the day is lost, and in a day he can install up to 3 cabins, if not more. Secondly, the water supply and drainage at the dacha is almost always non-standard, which will be even more costly. Therefore, how to install a shower cabin with a high tray yourself, see the video below.

Video: self-assembly and installation of a shower stall

And the following is about the intricacies of the angular:

In addition, before buying, you will need to familiarize yourself with the company instructions, tk. the methods of installing showers from different manufacturers are somewhat different.

Lattice

In the locker room, a grate under the feet is necessary so that the shoes do not get wet. In a sink with a low tray, a grate above it is also very desirable, because Due to the lack of a threshold, the risk of slipping and crashing when entering the pallet is increased.

Usually the lattice is made of wood from 30x30 slats to 100x40 boards. The preparation of the wood is the same as for the floor, but it is advisable to cover the grating with an acrylic compound for repairing bathtubs instead of varnishing, if funds allow, then its resistance to wear with the soles of shoes will significantly increase. And for the floor, covering with a compound will not be superfluous; in this case, the pallet can not be sealed with foam, the thick mixture will tighten the gap.

The best, and if we take into account the prices for varnish, then the cheaper grating is obtained from PP pipes assembled on self-tapping screws. Pipes need 1/2 ″; installation step - 1.5 outer diameter. The step of the crossbars from the same pipe is 300-400 mm. There is a little trick here: after assembling the grille, they launch a little bit at all the gaping ends. polyurethane foam so that the grate inside is not sour from dampness.

Tank

The shower tank for the summer cottage must be equipped with a sanitary drain with a shut-off valve, indicated in brown in Fig. It is placed at the lowest point of the vessel, and the source is made flush with the bottom. Before a long break in use (at least for a week), the tank is completely emptied through the sand drainage. It is advisable to drain the sludge regularly, with the same frequency, and with constant use. Please note that in the country, the probability of spores and eggs of unwanted microorganisms entering the tank is many times - orders of magnitude higher than in a city apartment. The author is aware of a case when in the shower tank ... carp-piglets were found. Apparently, they ate the larvae of mosquitoes, which swarmed in the same place.

The second condition is that the selection pipe must be set higher so that it sprinkles from the watering can pure water, not suck. Finally, in the presence of water heating in the tank, its thermosyphon circulation must also occur, otherwise most of the heater power will go idle. That is, the hot water supply must be as high as possible.

If the tank is powered from the water supply, then it needs a float valve and an overflow with a clearance area of ​​at least 2 of those of the supply pipe. Sufficient clearance is needed above the float so that it does not rest against the tank lid, without shutting off the water supply to the end. For such a case, a diagram of a tank with recommended dimensions is shown on the left in Fig.

For a manually filled tank, the pipe layout changes because the water level in it decreases during use. Its diagram is shown on the right in Fig. An indispensable condition - the supply of hot water should be located at least a little (5-7 mm at least) above the source of the selection, and the mouth of the supply pipe should be taken away from the source of the outlet; selective is located approximately in the middle between them. It is advisable to drain the sludge from such a tank immediately after each emptying so that the sludge does not clog the water heater.

And what is he made of?

Ready-made shower tanks of various sizes, tanks, fully equipped with fittings, are available for sale in a wide range. But, since our task is to completely implement everything with our own hands, then we will see how to make the tank ourselves.

The most common cottage shower tanks are made from barrels laid on one side; then it is convenient to place the sand drainage, and the loss of water in the sludge becomes minimal. In this case, a wide filling and inspection hatch is cut out in a steel 200-liter barrel and through it, after welding the nozzles, the container is painted from the inside with yacht acrylic enamel or the same compound for repairing bathtubs. An outdated long way - they are primed with a rust primer and painted with iron red lead in oil.

Plastic barrels do not require preparation from the inside, but there is a problem of sealing the joints: almost nothing sticks to polyethylene and polypropylene, and it is impossible to connect by soldering, like water pipes. Fortunately, plastic drums are produced with wide necks, through which it is possible to install threaded unions M12-M16 with a flange and a rubber gasket, and from the outside - also with a gasket and a washer; everything is pulled together with a nut. To prevent the branch pipe from being turned out by thermal deformations, the diameter of the flange and washer must be from 3 outer diameters of the branch pipe, but not less than 40 mm.

Note: an alternative method - sealing with silicone - does not justify itself, for 2-3 seasons the joints leak.

About a tank from an old washing machine

It is no secret that many country showers have tanks from unusable old washing machines. Their capacity is not large, for 2-3 washes quickly, but otherwise they are very good: they do not rust, sand drainage is automatically obtained from the old drain pipe, and the I / O of the rest is easy to carry out through the opening for the activator, there is already a stamp for the gasket and holes for fasteners. Covering such a tank with glass on silicone (preferably acrylic), we get effective solar heating of water (see below), because, repeatedly reflecting from the inner shiny walls, the radiation of the Sun will be almost completely absorbed by the water.

Cabin

Grillage

The supporting frame of the cab is most often made of wood; in the conditions of suburban operation, it loses strength more slowly than a thin-walled (1.5-2.5 mm) metal profile. The channel, of course, will last longer, but it will cost more. It is more suitable for welded structures, see above.

As for wood, a 100x100 or even 60x60 bar is suitable for a light cabin, and 150x150 for capital showers. The processing of wood is generally the same as for the floor, only instead of varnishing it is soaked twice or three times with heated bitumen mastic. In combination with a water-polymer emulsion, this will ensure a durability of at least 12 years; WPE, deeply penetrating into the pores of wood, makes them unsuitable for the germination of mold spores.

How high?

The rise of the grillage above the ground, and the corresponding protrusion of the foundation piles, is calculated as the sum of 200-250 mm for ventilation, plus the depth of the pallet tub, plus the technological height of the siphon and another 50-70 mm of stock. So, for a low pallet, this will be 320-450 mm, i.e. 2-3 more steps are needed at the entrance.

Frame

A wooden shower is assembled, as well as - on load-bearing pillars, only the problems of the roof disappear: it is either not there at all, or it is simply inclined. The frames of the walls are reinforced with diagonal braces, one per side, from a 100x40 board or its own, loosened in half lengthwise, i.e. 50x40, and installed flat. The latter option saves material, but takes up space inside the cab.

A professional pipe usually goes on a metal frame from 25x25x1.5 to 40x40x2. Collect profile frame welding, primed and painted. Thin-walled galvanized profiles are cheaper and easier to assemble - on self-tapping screws - but they do not last long, this material is not intended for outdoor use at all.

The best material for a shower frame is 1/2 ″ and 3/4 ″ propylene water pipes. The assembly scheme is the same as for wood: frame and diagonal. In this case, plastic soldering is not required, it is enough to select standard connectors so that the pipe fits into them more tightly, and assemble it on self-tapping screws. Phosphated (black) ones keep better in the shower. Diameter of self-tapping screws - 4.2 mm; length - 1-1.5 mm shorter than the outer diameter of the connector, so that the tip does not stick out and does not scratch.

Sheathing

In general, any sheet metal is suitable for covering the shower. Decoration Materials outdoor use: corrugated board, plastic lining, siding, polycarbonate, top row in rice; they can be attached to any frame either with standard fasteners, or, if the frame is propylene, with brackets and clamps.

Polycarbonate stands out from all cladding materials. Its main advantage is a self-heating polycarbonate shower. The peculiarities of the interaction of cellular polycarbonate with sunlight are such that an increased energy density of infrared (thermal, IR) radiation is created inside the cabin. Simply put - a kind of warm cocoon appears, even if the shower is without a roof and with a wide ventilation gap at the bottom. Cellular polycarbonate and was originally developed to cover greenhouses and greenhouses.

The shower cubicle is sheathed on all sides, cramped, i.e. the area of ​​its glazing is large in relation to its volume, and tomatoes are not grown in it in winter. Therefore, the cheapest sheet of the 2R structure with a thickness of 4 mm from the most alternative manufacturer is suitable for covering the shower. You should not be afraid of peeping: especially for showers, milky, opaque, polycarbonate is produced.

The second important factor is honeycomb sheet if it is oriented vertically and bent by internal channels, it acquires the properties of a prestressed structure (PSC): high strength and rigidity. That is, a very durable and lightweight round cabin can be made on a frame of just 2 hoops bent from PP pipe, upper and lower. The hoops will also be pre-stressed and will add a lot to the overall strength.

Finally, by tightly tying the sheet to the curved template and heating for 20-30 hours to 70-80 degrees, the bending of the sheet can be fixed. This technique is often used by designers; in particular for original shower enclosures without frame, see fig. on right.

It is also widely used for showers and good old wood, pre-processed, like for the floor, or even raw, at least in the form of a wattle fence, the bottom row in Fig. above. Its advantages are accessibility, ease of processing, and for capital showers under the roof - wood keeps heat well. Heat loss through a wooden sheathing made of a forty-piece board is less than through a brick one in half a brick.

Note: use laminated and modified shower enclosures wood materials- plywood, fiberboard, chipboard, MDF - undesirable, stratified.

Armature

What distinguishes a garden garden shower from an ordinary shower is, first of all, a shower head (spout, diffuser): its design includes an adjustment valve, see fig. If there is separate hot water at the dacha, then this is not suitable - diffusers with a standard two-way valve are not visible on sale. However, it is not difficult to make a watering can with a valve yourself, it does not have any fundamental features. Other valves can be any ordinary, but it is easier and cheaper to make pipelines flexible, from a reinforced garden hose.

Heating and heating

Now let's figure out finally what a warm shower is. In capital showers, as mentioned above, the heating of the washing room will allow the return flow from the tank to the water heater through the heating register, see fig. For constant heating of living quarters, this scheme is utter heresy, but in the soul it is quite workable without loss of overall efficiency.

The cheapest and fastest heating of water is provided by a flow-through gas boiler low power or, if bottled gas, an electric boiler. We will leave the one and the other, tk. it is impossible to make them in accordance with safety requirements outside industrial conditions: a heating element with grounding is only the basis, we also need automatic temperature control, emergency from boiling, emptying, overheating of the heating element due to fouling with scale or tightening with sludge, and some other necessary trifles.

Without heat exchanger

The easiest way, which summer residents use from time immemorial, is to warm water with the Sun. But the well-known tank drenched in bitumen is not the best solution; the fact is that bitumen or simple black (not selective) paint is black only in visible light, and IR reflects well.

2 ways of primitive solar water heating are shown in fig. on right. The first (left position) exploits the fact that water itself actively absorbs IR and ultraviolet (UV) light. The latter carries a lot of energy, but a well-transmitting UV tank is needed, i.e. expensive acrylic. In the other, which is on the right pos. the hose's own heat capacity is used: when the water flows, it gives off the accumulated heat to it, therefore, it is possible to obtain more warm water than it was originally in the volume of the pipe.

With register and pot

Direct heating of water is bad because it depends on the weather and the time of year: clouds have come up - the water is cold, and you can get hot only in the very heat, when it’s a little warm. For good water heating, not only in warm weather and not only in clear weather, a water heater for a shower must, firstly, somehow collect solar radiation, the energy density of which is relatively low, and transfer it to water, the heat capacity of which is relatively high. An indispensable condition for "stitching" these requirements is a thermosyphon or forced circulation water in the system, i.e. a heat exchanger is needed, and how to heat it is the second thing.

A simple heat exchange register is a coil (on the left in the figure) or a U-shaped elbow made of copper or aluminum thin-walled tube. It can be laid flat with a slope, in the middle in the same place; then the hot side must be raised above the cold side by at least the value of the inner diameter of the tube, otherwise internal convection may develop, boil and rupture even with a relatively small energy input.

In some cases, it is more convenient to have a heat exchanger in the form of a sealed vessel, on the right in Fig. The principle of "thermo-siphon" is observed here by the fact that the outlet (hot) branch pipe is located as high as possible above the cold one. In this case, sealing is needed complete, without the slightest leak!

From the stove

The water-heating register can be built into a summer cottage heating and cooking stove, but this is already a matter of the device of the stoves, and where the hot water goes then, the stove does not really care. A solar oven looks much more interesting in terms of heating water for a shower. In our latitudes, it is not suitable for cooking, but the shower will provide hot water and the simplest (see fig.) In spring and autumn in cloudy weather.

The pattern of such a stove is shown on the next. rice. Material - any foil, even cardboard. Please note that the reflector is certainly metal, it reflects the entire spectrum of radiation, and household mirrors only visible part... For IR, clouds are much more transparent, and UV, even in small amounts, carries a lot of energy.

The scheme of a stationary solar oven is more complicated, but much more effective, shown on the next page. rice. The reflector is assembled from pieces (can be scraps) of zinc-plated silicone. Fragments of the reflector are installed in turn, adjusting (adjusting) so that the light spot lies on the bottom of the heated vessel; already installed and adjusted mirrors are still covering something. For this oven and the heat exchanger described in front of it, a compact one is needed; it is placed instead of cooking utensils.

Panels

Solar panels are not so complicated and do not require any alignment. These are, in fact, blackened from the inside and glazed flat boxes or other containers in which a strong greenhouse effect is created; a coil is installed inside such a mini-greenhouse, the diagram on the left in Fig. In modern solar panels, truly space technologies are used, and some models in winter on a cloudy day at –20 outside give water to the system with a temperature of +70.

We do not need such super-efficiency, it is enough for us to heat 50-100 liters of water from +15 to +40 in 2-4 hours. The most unpretentious design like those shown on the trail will cope with this task. poses of the same fig. And in fig. below (on the upper pos. - with an installation diagram and a variant of use for heating a house) - drawings of self-made solar panels, comparable in efficiency to individual industrial designs. The first panel is completely homemade; heat exchanger soldered from copper tube... In the one below, a radiator from an old unusable refrigerator went to him; the dimensions of the box are adjusted to the cash.

And in the dark?

If the kitchen in the country house is gasified, anyway, from a mains or a cylinder, then you can heat water for a shower for nothing at any time of the year, in any weather, day and night. How? Due to the waste heat (in essence - its own heat loss) of the gas stove. To do this, a copper coil from a 6-10 mm tube is drawn around the burners, as shown in fig; This method was invented back in Stalin's times, when people heard that somewhere there, at the top, a curiosity appeared - hot water in the tap.

To tilt the heat exchanger, pieces of soft wire are wound around its hot tube, and their whiskers are used either as legs or as hooks. Remember: the heating is intense, without tilting the coil boils and bursts instantly! It is also necessary to maintain other dimensions so as not to burn or dry out the flexible hoses connecting the coil to the tank. What else you need to remember - the slope of the hot tube should be greater than that of the cold one, and the coil heats up well only if the burning burners are occupied by cooking utensils. That is, it makes no sense to burn the gas idle, you need to heat the water during cooking. As a rule, for an hour of preparation of lunch, a 50-liter tank heats up to 40-45 degrees.

Finally

Finally, we will mention one curiosity - a supposedly hydromassage shower. In fig. the simplest model is shown on the right (the price, by the way, is not unpretentious - about 300 euros), but installations with 6 or even 10 diffusers are produced, in advertising brochures they are loudly called nozzles.

Souls such - only a tribute to fashion, if not the inventions of marketers of the consumer society; simply - wiring. For a real hydromassage, it is necessary to reduce muscle tone in conditions of hydroelectricity, which cannot be without a bath with water.

It is difficult to overestimate the importance of water in human life. Especially during the heat of the sun. The summer shower is exactly what allows you to cheer up and freshen up after your gardening exploits.

By the way, not every summer resident has an outdoor shower on the site. But in vain! After all, it can be arranged simply - in the form of a temporary structure (collapsible) or thoroughly, for annual use.

If you are interested in how to make an outdoor shower with your own hands, then this article will be a good guide, since it contains the subtleties of choosing a building material for a shower and a frame, a water tank, a drain device, as well as drawings and diagrams for quick and inexpensive construction.

But, about everything step by step and in detail.

When planning the construction of a summer shower in the country, you need to pay attention to the choice of materials that will be used in the construction process. An outdoor shower is not only hygienic procedures, it is also a decorative element in the landscape design of the site. The minimalism style does not flourish in every country house, and therefore we will consider for a start what types of showers there are.

Types of summer shower for a summer residence

Simple outdoor shower

Structurally, the simplest shower consists of a tank with a tap, which is installed at the height of a person's height.

The shower tank can be installed on a tree, or you can lay the watering hose, fixing it to a special stand, and throw a rubber mat on the ground. As a one-off measure, such a shower will certainly do.

But, if you use it often, the bathing place will turn into a mud bath, which will make the suburban area look like a swamp, which is certainly not included in our plans.

Frame shower for summer cottages

Outdoor outdoor shower with remote tank

The photo shows an outdoor shower with a tank installed away from the bathing area. This is due to the fact that the shower frame cannot support the weight of a container filled with water.

Closed frame outdoor shower with tank

This design can already be called a shower house (or a country shower cabin). It was she who received the greatest distribution among the owners of private houses, despite the great complexity and cost of manufacturing. Therefore, we will dwell on their device in more detail.

The types of frame shower rooms differ from each other mainly in material. exterior decoration... As evidenced by reviews on the forums, the most popular were:

Its peculiarity is absolute mobility and low cost. To make such a shower, it is enough to make a collapsible (or one-piece) frame and a screen made of thick PVC film (or tarpaulin). The portable shower is easy to move from one place to another.

However, it cannot be seriously considered as a permanent building, since service life is limited by the quality of the film (polymer roll cloth). Usually it is changed every season, or even several times per season.

Such a building, as well as all subsequent ones, can already be considered capital (stationary). The best option use of lumber - facing with a planed board or sheathing of the frame wooden clapboard... You can use moisture resistant OSB boards(OSB) or plywood, but not advisable due to hygroscopicity.

The tree is good because it is natural material... But its use requires proper handling and constant care... A wooden shower will last from 5 to 15 years. The use of wood as a finishing material does not exclude the possibility of creating a unique project.

Finished garden showers are shown in the photo. Profiled sheeting is a profiled sheet made of thin metal. A painted sheet with a metal thickness of at least 0.45 is suitable for a shower. Such a shower is resistant to moisture, but more expensive and deforms in case of mechanical damage.

It should be borne in mind that in the summer steel structure it gets very hot (one might even say, it gets hot) and, as a result, it is hot and stuffy inside, therefore, you need to provide for good ventilation. The service life is determined by the warranty period of the sheet and ranges from 10 to 25 years.

Tip: If you decide to use corrugated board, give preference to a matte finish. Its service life will be up to 25 years.

Polycarbonate shower

Thanks to the ability to use the "greenhouse effect", polycarbonate is becoming one of the most popular and available materials for building a shower.

For a summer shower, it is better to use an opaque cellular polycarbonate, 8-16 mm thick, special profile and washers for fastening. A polycarbonate shower will last from 3 to 10 years (depending on the quality of the sheet).

Brick shower

An outdoor shower made of stone or brick can no longer be called a temporary summer shower, since they usually try to connect to it with running water and electricity. A brick shower house, with a properly organized drain, has been in operation for a long time.

Choosing a place for an outdoor shower on the site

To use the shower for a long time and without problems, you need to correctly place it on the site, for this you need to take into account:

• distance from home. On the one hand, it is advisable to place the shower closer to the house in order to quickly move to a warm room on a cool evening. But on the other hand, water drainage may not have the best effect on the foundations of adjacent buildings.

Tip: do not place a shower next to a well, this will adversely affect the quality of drinking water.

• water supply. Usually an outdoor shower is equipped with a tank. But water must be pumped into the container somehow. In a private house, water is supplied with a hose. At the dacha - most often by hand.

• draining. By installing the shower on a hill, you can simplify the drainage of used water.

• appearance. The thoughtful design of a summer shower will allow you to add a certain touch to the overall decor of the site.

• illumination. Considering the fact that the water in the tank is planned to be heated from sun rays, it is better to place the shower in a place where the sun will shine longer;

• drafts. You should also consider when choosing a place for a shower. Otherwise, instead of having fun, users will have a constant cold.

How to make a summer shower with your own hands - instructions

Stage 1 - material and tool

Shower frame material

• frame made of wood. It is advisable to use durable, dry wood conifers... The thickness of the block depends on the thickness of the polycarbonate and the weight of the water tank. It will be optimal to use a bar not thinner than 50x50 mm. Using a tree in work, you need to take care of extending its service life. To do this, it is worth covering the wood with special solutions: an antiseptic, a primer, treat it with a wood bug protection, etc.;

• frame from a metal corner or pipe. To make vertical posts, a pipe with a diameter of 40 mm is suitable. with a wall thickness of 2 mm. To strengthen the structure, intermediate connections can be installed. A 25mm pipe is suitable for them. with a wall thickness of 1.2 mm.

You can also use a 40x60 corner with a metal thickness of over 2 mm.

Please note that the metal must also be treated with solutions that protect against corrosion.

• frame made of aluminum profile. Most of the purchased products are made of aluminum profiles. It does not corrode, but its cost is higher than the price of wood or metal.

• frame made of brick, stone or concrete pillars. Brick, rubble or concrete frame is a rather rare occurrence when building a polycarbonate shower.

Advice: despite the assurances of the manufacturers, it is better not to use plastic pipes for the manufacture of a summer shower frame. Together with the high windage of the facing material (for example, polycarbonate), such a structure will not have sufficient stability.

Finishing material

It was already mentioned above. It is important that the material is prepared for use in conditions of high humidity and the influence of atmospheric factors. For example, buy a greenhouse film, it lasts at least two years. The tree must be treated with an antiseptic, a primer, a solution that prevents damage to the wood by bark beetles. Polycarbonate must have a protective layer that can withstand UV exposure. Decking is a high-quality polymer coating, otherwise, rust will appear after the first season.

Shower tank (capacity)

The choice of the tank is influenced by:

• the number of consumers for whom the shower is designed;

• material of manufacture. The tank can be steel, plastic or aluminum. Containers made from different materials, heat up at different rates and, accordingly, cool down in different ways;

• tank weight. The material of the frame depends on this;

• volume of the tank. There are tanks on the market with a volume of 50 to 220 liters;

• the possibility of heating water in the tank;

• the presence of a central or private water supply, otherwise you will have to fill the barrel manually;

• possibility of transportation. You can buy a large-volume tank, but it cannot be disassembled, and therefore the issues of transportation, lifting and installation of the tank should be taken into account in advance;

• tank color. The most common tanks are black or blue. Such colors do not discourage the sun's rays, due to which the water in them warms up faster;

• the shape of the tank - round or flat - depends on how the frame for the tank is arranged. But users are advised to use a flat tank in view of the fact that it warms up faster and more evenly. At the same time, the volume of a flat tank does not exceed 140 liters, and a cylindrical one does not exceed 1000 liters.

Tip: You can make a water tank yourself. Any clean container with a filler neck for a screw cap is suitable for this. Most often, summer residents use a barrel.

• faucet, shower head, hose and fittings (for water supply).

It should be remembered that the water in a summer shower runs by gravity, so wait for the pressure. But summer residents usually do not worry about this.

• pipe for water drainage. If it is necessary to install it, it is better to give preference to a plastic pipe.

• the tool depends on what material will form the basis of the frame and what material will be used for finishing the shower.

Stage 2 - summer shower scheme

It is quite possible to make a drawing of a summer shower on your own, but in order to have something to start from, we will give several options for an example.

When developing a shower scheme, decide in advance on the finishing material. Some types, for example, corrugated board or polycarbonate, are distinguished by significant windage, and, therefore, it is necessary to provide for the installation of additional jumpers for the rigidity of the structure.

Consider also the volume of the tank, the frame must be able to withstand the weight of the container filled with water.

Consider the size and location of the door that should open outward.

Stage 3 - design (dimensions of the summer shower)

Of course, an outdoor shower is not a capital construction, but, nevertheless, it is worthwhile to take a responsible approach to its design.

The dimensions of the shower depend on the preferences of the users, but are usually:

• width - 1000-1200 mm.

Tip: When designing the shower width, consider the door width and the 70-100mm gap. to install the door frame.

• length - 800-1200 mm.

If the shower simultaneously serves as a dressing room, then it is better that its dimensions are at least 1000 by 1200. If a dressing room is provided, then the shower itself can be reduced to 800x800, and the dressing room can be arranged in accordance with its owner's vision. If a toilet is supposed, then, accordingly, the width is added and the device of a cesspool or a sewer supply is taken into account.

• height from 2000 mm. This parameter is not standard because it depends on:

• the height of the tallest user with arms outstretched;

• place of installation of the water tank. It is often installed directly under the ceiling of the shower;

• presence / absence of a pallet in the shower.

• configuration. The outdoor shower is predominantly square in shape. However, polycarbonate allows for a round shower. And the developer's imagination can generally go beyond the standards and build an unusual and beautiful outdoor shower from familiar (improvised) materials.

Tip: when creating a summer shower project, select its dimensions taking into account the consumption of material, especially those with standard dimensions. For example, corrugated board or polycarbonate. It will be a shame if 100 mm is not enough, or if half of it remains unused, and you have saved on the dimensions of the shower room.

Stage 4 - shower frame and water drainage

The above drawings show that the shower frame is a simple design.

Regardless of the material of the frame, the manufacturing process will be approximately the same. But, nevertheless, there are several ways to make and install the frame.

Advice: a shower with a changing room (or with a toilet) requires the installation of additional vertical racks due to the fact that it has large dimensions compared to a shower without a changing room.

Option 1. Primitive shower frame

Weld the structure and anchor it in the ground using metal rods. Bent in half rods more than a meter long are hammered through the lower edge of the frame into the ground. This option did not find distribution among users due to the fact that it does not make it possible to organize a drainage system. The water used in the shower will wash away the rods and soon the frame can be blown down even by a slight wind.

Option 2. Shower frame on a columnar foundation

First you need to install the vertical posts. To do this, a drill is used to remove a layer of soil with a depth of 500-800 mm. Pour a sand-crushed stone pillow at the bottom of the pits, install the racks treated with solutions and fill them with concrete. In this case, the racks are set strictly according to the level.

Advice: it is better to grind wooden racks or wrap them with a layer of roofing material. So the tree will be less prone to rotting.

After the concrete has hardened, horizontal jumpers that will hold the tank, as well as the lower jumpers, are attached to the vertical posts (by welding or hardware for a metal frame, nails or special brackets for a wooden frame). Their purpose is to hold the bottom edge of polycarbonate or sheet metal sheets and take on some of the weight of the entire frame.

Advice: when making the frame, you need to provide additional horizontal posts for installing the door.

Additional oblique bridges will add rigidity to the structure.

To ensure the drainage of used water, a summer shower tray must be installed. To do this, remove soil from a surface equal to the shower area plus 100 mm. The excavation depth will be 300-350 mm. Fill a layer of rubble with sand at the bottom. Optimal height layer 150-200 mm. Inside the frame, we make a bandage, which serves as the basis for the floor. Next, you can install a pallet or make a slatted floor.

To make a slatted floor, you need to lay logs on horizontal lintels, and boards 50-100 mm wide on them. The size of the gap depends on the width of the board and usually ranges from 5 mm (for a beam of 30x30 mm) to 20 mm (for a board with a width of 10 mm).

Tip: the gap should ensure a quick drainage of water and exclude the possibility of injury to the legs.

Attention: in cool weather, the air flow from below (from under the floor) will make showering not very comfortable.

Option 3. Frame for a shower on a foundation

For these purposes, it is better and easier to fill the foundation in the form of a monolithic slab. To understand how to make a foundation for a shower, you need to decide where the used water will go. Therefore, it is necessary to take care of the drain pit.

Foundation device for a summer shower

It is necessary to remove soil from a surface equal to the shower area plus 100 mm. The excavation depth will be 300-350 mm. Fill the bottom of the pit with a layer of rubble and sand. The optimum height of the sand and gravel pad is 150-200 mm. Tamp well and pour over with water. Then fill this pillow with a concrete solution, taking care of the arrangement of the water drain. To do this, a polymer pipe must be embedded in a concrete slab, and the foundation itself must be poured at an angle. So that the water flows by gravity into the pipe. And then she went either into the ground (with a low frequency of use of the shower by several users) or into a special pit (in the event that many people use the shower). The second option to ensure the drainage of water will be pouring the foundation at an angle to the surface and installing a drainage in the place of water drain.

After completing all the work, all metal and wooden parts of the frame are once again treated with a primer or paint.

Advice: the paint must be suitable for use in high humidity conditions.

User opinions. As for pouring the foundation, here the opinions of users differ. Some people believe that a polycarbonate shower, as a lightweight structure, does not need a foundation, it is enough just to deepen the vertical racks of the frame and make a gravel backfill. And some are convinced that the foundation will make the shower more reliable. In any case, it will not interfere, the only thing will entail slightly higher construction costs.

Stage 5 - the floor for the summer shower

The flooring provides for the construction of a wooden flooring or the installation of a pallet.

Tip: A car mat on a concrete floor is suitable as a one-off measure.

Stage 6 - installation of the water tank

The tank is installed on a previously prepared place in the frame and attached to it.

Tip: you can speed up the heating of the water in the tank if you cover it with foil or lay a polycarbonate sheet on top.

Stage 7 - wiring

Electricity supply and wiring, installation of heating elements (heated tank - heating element).

Finally, interior and exterior decoration is performed.

Conclusion

Thanks to this step-by-step instruction, you now know how to build a do-it-yourself outdoor shower for a summer cottage. Enjoy the cool water in the midst of a sultry summer.

The owners of summer cottages are trying to bring water into the house and equip basic amenities. You can build an outdoor shower in the country with your own hands, both temporary and capital - the type of future structure is selected depending on individual needs.

Before you build a shower in the country with your own hands, you need to correctly design, determine the location of the future structure, select materials. The room should be loose, as comfortable and convenient as possible for use.

Seat selection

In order to ensure a quick drainage of water, it is optimal to install the shower on a level or slightly elevated area. You should not choose a site located in a strong lowland or in a hole.

To avoid stagnant water, choose the right place for building a summer shower

An open area well-lit by the sun, which is located at some distance from other buildings, will be optimal for a country shower. In this case, the barrel will naturally heat up under the sun, providing a supply of warm water. This condition can be neglected only if it is planned to build a shower stall with heated water.

At the same time, the site where construction will be carried out should not be too far from the house - after water treatments it is advisable to get out of the shower into a warm room as soon as possible.

Sizing calculation

When building a country shower, the following parameters are standardly used:

1. height - 200-300 cm;
2. length - 190 cm;
3. width - 140 cm.

An example of drawing up a drawing of a summer shower

The indicated dimensions are very convenient in that, taking into account the thickness of the walls, the building will ultimately come out with an area of ​​200x150 cm - this is a completely waste-free option when using boards of standard sizes. As a result, 100x100 cm will be allocated for the shower stall, and 600x400 cm for the changing room.

Required tools and materials

You will need the following tools:

• roulette;
• corner;
• level;
• hammer.

In addition, you need to stock up on nails and a skein of twine. Separately, you need to purchase a tank, as well as pipes, a couple of taps and a shower divider. Brick, iron or plastic sheets, wooden boards are suitable as a building material for the construction of a cabin, pipes are suitable for the construction of a frame.

Tools needed to build a shower in the country

For the foundation pouring and erection of brickwork, a certain amount of cement, sand and concrete will be required, and for the final finishing - insulation materials, paint, plaster, clothes hooks, shelves for bathroom accessories and other accessories.

Options for shower designs for summer cottages

The simplest option for giving is a compact portable shower, which is suitable for one-time water procedures, has a standard volume of 20 liters and is designed to supply water for 10 minutes. The principle of operation is reduced to filling the reservoir with water and subsequent heating in the sun, after which the portable shower is mounted at a height of 2 meters and is ready for use.

Portable shower

Also has an uncomplicated design outdoor shower, the installation process of which is reduced to the following steps:

1. fastening to the wall of the branch of the water supply pipe;
2. connection of a pipe and a watering can with a hose;
3. fixing the holder of the watering can;
4. installation of the screen.

A common option for a summer cottage is the so-called change house with a shower, the design of which assumes the presence of a one-piece modular container or a frame-folding unit.

Options for a stationary summer shower for a summer residence

The installation of this structure is quite simple - the marking of the territory is done, the upper ball of soil is removed and leveled, a cushion of sand with gravel is created, on top of which the boards are laid. On the soil prepared in this way, a block assembled in place or a ready-made structure is installed.

Of course, a stationary shower will become the most solid, but its construction will require more effort and time.

Preparation of the base

It is much easier to build a frame structure than a capital structure - depending on the type of construction chosen, the stages of preparing a site for construction will differ.

For a temporary construction, it is enough to simply remove 10-15 cm of the topsoil from the site in order to level it, and then cover it with sand.

For a country capital shower, you will need to lay a foundation, the depth of which is determined by the materials that are used for its construction. For example, for a brick shower, a foundation will be quite enough, the depth of which will reach 30 cm.

Foundation for the construction of a capital summer shower

The foundation is laid in the following sequence:

• pegs are hammered in the outer corners of the future shower;
• a cord is pulled along the perimeter;
• a place for pipes is being prepared (a log or a branch wrapped in roofing material is laid);
• concrete solution is poured.

Advice! The formwork equipment will allow extending the operation period of the shower - it is recommended to raise the level of the entire foundation by 10 cm, raising it above the ground with the help of boards reinforced with stakes and spacers.

Drain pit equipment

The pit volume is usually more than 2 cubic meters. m, while its walls must be strengthened in order to avoid possible debris. The drain is located a few meters from the shower, but not under the building itself or near its walls - this will lead to the destruction of the foundation in the future, as well as to the appearance of unwanted odors.

Equipment example drain pit for a summer shower

The drain should be laid with a waterproof layer - roofing material, hydroglass, PVC film or concrete screed (reinforced with a metal mesh) are used.

Attention! A common mistake is to use clay as an insulating material, which erodes and soon clogs the drainage ditch.

Installation of a frame for a temporary shower stall

If brickwork is performed for a capital structure, then a frame is usually installed for a temporary one: metal or wooden. In the latter case, the tree should be treated with special impregnations that protect it from insects and moisture, preventing the formation of fungus and mold.

Wooden frame for summer shower

1. Marking is made - a rectangle is indicated right on the ground, the sides of which correspond to the dimensions of the future summer cottage shower.
2. Wooden beams are installed, the width of which reaches 10 cm.
3. The dressing is performed - starting from the top, the structure is securely bolted together, after which the base bars of the shower walls are connected.
4. Walls are equipped, for the construction of which you can use both boards and slate or plastic panels.
5. Piping is in progress - the water supply is installed so that the outlet of the pipe under the shower hose is higher than the level of the head (this will ensure required pressure for water movement). For drainage, an output is made to a sump or to a specially equipped septic tank.
6. A tank is installed - a threaded outlet is made, a tap with a corresponding nozzle is placed, after which the barrel rises up and is fixed.

A plastic container, which can be purchased in a specialized store, or another barrel available on the farm, is suitable as a tank for a country shower. It is desirable that it be flat and commensurate with the area of ​​the building so that the weight is evenly distributed over the supporting structure. Its volume is selected at the rate of 40 liters per family member, but the barrel should not be too heavy - its maximum volume is no more than 200 liters!

Tank for heating water from the sun

Advice! So that the owner of the summer cottage does not have to carry water into the tank on his own every time, you can equip it with automatic filling.

Lighting and ventilation of the country shower

When making your own wiring, it is important to follow all the rules for wiring and adhere to safety precautions. Separately, due to high humidity, you should take care of the insulation of the wiring.

Window for ventilation of a summer shower

Internal shower finishing should be made of moisture-resistant materials: plastic panels, pieces of linoleum, oilcloth, etc. If wood is used, then each separate board is covered with hot linseed oil.

The concrete floor is usually covered with plastic or wood gratings, and rubber rugs are laid on top. It is quite convenient to equip a small dressing room directly in the shower room. In order to prevent water from getting into it, the floors in it rise slightly by a couple of centimeters - this is easy to achieve by additionally placing a pallet.

The interior of the summer shower

Concerning exterior decoration, then they will look harmonious similar materials that have already been used for registration country house and other buildings on the site.

To use the shower not only in the summer, but also in the colder season, it is recommended to insulate it with expanded polystyrene, which fits into inner space and upholstered with PVC film on top. Walls are usually painted or plastered, sheathed with clapboard or siding.

How to build an outdoor shower in the country: video

Summer shower types: photo

This will require plumbing and tile installation skills. But even a novice builder can handle a simple shower on a finished pallet. The main thing is to correctly assess your capabilities.

Of course, it is much easier to plan a future shower room in a house under construction. In this case, the fantasy is almost unlimited:

• construction of a shower room with an inclined floor;
• the device "recessed" in the floor of the pallet;
• installation of a monolithic pallet with a rim;
• installation of a finished pallet;
• connection of a modern shower.

So, to organize an inclined floor, even at the construction stage, its level must be made lower than the floors in the remaining rooms by at least 10-15 cm. The same applies to a shower with a pallet, the edges of which are located at floor level - so that you do not have to make a sill to the bathroom.

If you need to re-equip the shower room in the finished house, and there is no way to dismantle the floors, you will have to limit yourself to only the last three "floor" options. Their advantage is undoubtedly - such a shower can be made with your own hands, even without professional skills.

Features of piping in the shower

The second method is much more complicated - first, water enters the collector, and from it separate pipes are already leaving for each object - a sink, a shower, a toilet bowl and other devices. This solves the problem of a drop in pressure while simultaneously turning on several points of water intake.

Without special skills to do it right collector system will not work, therefore, in houses built with their own hands, they use a serial connection. And so that boiling water does not pour out of the shower when filling the washing machine, it is enough to use pipes different diameters- 3/4 "for common pipe and 1/2" for connecting devices.

One more important point- organization of drainage from the shower. Choosing a siphon, you need to decide in advance:

When choosing a place for a shower, the distance of the sewer connection is important - if it is more than 3 m, you will have to deaerate to remove the air supplied with water.

Shower waterproofing and ventilation - what to look for

Organization of a shower room even in wooden house- not a problem thanks to modern materials and solutions. So, you can level and protect the walls with moisture-resistant drywall with the obligatory gluing and putty of the joints. The sheets should not reach 0.5-1 cm to the floor. If the walls are concrete or brick, you can immediately start finishing them.

The waterproofing is already applied to the screed and must cover the entire floor with a minimum of 15 cm overhanging the walls. The walls in contact with the shower are also covered with waterproofing.

It can be either mastic or fused roofing material. Special attention should be paid to the exit points of pipes and electrical appliances. At the junction of walls and floors, as well as at the corners, it is additionally glued sealing tape, the edges of which are also rubbed with mastic.

But the correct organization of waterproofing in the shower is only half the battle. Constant high humidity, even if it does not affect the cladding material in any way, can ruin the most modern bathroom. Therefore, forced ventilation should be provided at the planning stage.

The direction of air in the ventilation shaft, if it affects and living rooms, should be from "dry" rooms to "wet" - bathroom and kitchen. Otherwise, constant dampness in the bedroom will be ensured. At the same time, it is advisable to do the hood even if there is a window - in the cold season it is hardly rational to constantly ventilate the shower room.

Shower with a ready-made tray - a simple and aesthetic solution

Installing the pallet is extremely simple - just follow the instructions. Steel and acrylic pallets, in most cases, are equipped with special legs. But even in this case, it is better to put the pallet on a monolithic base with a support in the center - so that it does not bend or shift.

The installation process includes five steps:

To simplify installation, instead of installing glass screens, you can attach a curtain bracket. To add originality to the shower, you can use non-standard brackets - oval, semicircular or even spiral.

How to make a shower room without a tray

A shower room without a tray looks very stylish. Such a shower in the house is convenient for children and the elderly, as well as for bathing pets. The lack of a curb is compensated by the correct slope for draining the water, so you don't have to worry about the complete flooding of the bathroom.

The process of organizing such a shower is also quite simple, although it takes a lot of time:

In order not to do the screed twice all over the floor, you can make a shower with a curb. For this, bricks are laid along the desired contour, and the whole process is repeated, but only in a space limited by the curb.

How to make a shower with such a pallet with your own hands is very clearly shown in the video:

Put garden shower on personal plot recommended in the following cases:

• the country house does not have engineering networks... The lack of running water significantly complicates the arrangement of a stationary shower in the room;
• the garden house is used only for short-term rest during the summer period. If you build a shower cabin in such a room, then there are big problems with preparing for it. negative temperatures... It is necessary to completely remove water from the system, prevent pipelines from freezing, etc .;
• in order to save energy. The water for a garden shower can only be heated by sunlight. If there is a desire to expand the functionality of the shower stall, then you can connect electric heating, but use it only in unfavorable weather;
• financial resources do not allow the construction of expensive capital bathrooms.

The presence of a garden shower significantly increases the comfort of relaxing in a suburban area, you can wash in it after working in the beds, etc. It is impossible to list all possible options for arranging a garden shower in one article, each owner can make his own changes depending on preferences, skills, characteristics the relief of the site and financial possibilities.

In order to make it easier for inexperienced builders to choose the best option for a garden shower for themselves, we give a table of the most commonly used structures with brief description their characteristics.

Name of the structural element	Technical description
Frame	It can be made of wooden blocks or rolled metal. The dimensions of the bars are approximately 50 × 50 mm; for the manufacture of side stops, strips of at least 20 × 30 mm are used. It is better to make a metal frame from pipes of a square or rectangular profile with a size of at least 20 × 20 mm.
Sheathing of external surfaces	All lining options are suitable, including natural. Profiled metal sheets, honeycomb or monolithic polycarbonate are widely used. The cheapest options are polyethylene film or thick fabric.
Water drainage	Some options may have special septic tanks, while most do not require drives. Several tens of liters of water are quite successfully absorbed into the soil, especially if it belongs to the sandy or sandy loam species in its composition.
Water tanks	Both metal and plastic containers are used. The best option is to buy shower containers in specialized stores. The minimum volume of the container is 100 liters, outer surfaces must be painted black.
Water heating	Sun rays or combined with the use of electric heating elements. A specific choice is recommended taking into account the climatic zone of residence and the time of use of the shower.

Garden shower

The construction of a shower consists of several stages, their observance allows you to avoid many troubles.

Stages of building a garden shower

The conditions for placing a garden shower listed below will increase the comfort of its use, reduce the amount of construction work and increase the time of use. These conditions are considered universal and must be taken into account in the construction of any construction option.

1. Location. The shower should be located in a well-lit place garden plot, very desirable on a hill. If the land is sandy or sandy loam, then this arrangement will make it possible to do without a septic tank or dirty water storage.
2. The distance between the shower and the residential building should be kept to a minimum. It can adjoin outbuildings, a garage, etc. The main thing is that after water procedures there is a place for shelter, which will exclude the likelihood of hypothermia in unfavorable weather.
3. Methods for filling a container under water. In all cases, the distance from water sources to the shower stall should be small.

After the issues with the location of the structure have been resolved, it is necessary to determine the size and type of construction, materials of manufacture. As we mentioned above, the choice is huge and depends only on the owner of the site.

It is possible not to build a frame, but to place a shower head on one of the walls of existing buildings, having previously taken special measures to protect it from moisture. There are options for placing the shower rail in an open space (vertical support, tree branch, etc.).

An original solution - the water tank is installed on the ground, and the supply is provided using a special device, the so-called "treadmill". It looks like a rubber mat with built-in water supply pumps. They alternately need to be pressed with your feet, water is sucked out of the container and fed into the shower head under pressure. Exercise and shower at the same time. Great option, can be installed anywhere in the suburban area. To equip such a garden shower, you do not need any construction skills, materials, or time.

In this article, we will dwell on two more complex, but also more comfortable options. To erect these structures, you need construction material and a little time and experience. Frame materials - wood or profiled steel. The standard dimensions of the structure are 100 × 100 cm around the perimeter and 220 cm in height. Reducing is not worth it, it will be inconvenient to wash. If you want to make a separate place in the shower for changing clothes and storing bath accessories, then you can increase the perimeter of the structure.

Step-by-step instructions for building a shower with a wooden frame

Step 1. Make the markup concrete slab grounds. To facilitate the drainage of water, it is recommended to leave a depression in the middle of the shower for the natural absorption of moisture. First, you should remove the fertile layer from the ground, fill in a sand cushion 10-15 cm thick, tamp and level the area.

Step 2. Prepare the formwork. You need to make two square boxes... One with a square side of about 100 × 100 cm, the second inner one with a square side of about 60 × 60 cm. The height of the formwork is at least 10 cm, for manufacturing, use boards with a thickness of about 20 mm and a height of 10–15 cm. If you are afraid that the boards will bend under load concrete, then reinforce the formwork around the perimeter with wooden or metal pegs. Check the corners with a square, the formwork can be assembled with ordinary nails.

Step 3. Place the formwork on the prepared site, check its position. The small box should be placed exactly in the center of the large one.

Step 4. Prepare concrete for pouring. For manufacturing, you need cement, sand and gravel in a ratio of 1: 2: 3. The accuracy of the proportions does not matter much, the strength is quite enough for small loads. Pour concrete into the formwork, level the upper surface horizontally using a flat batten. Allow about 10 days for the mortar to set.

Step 5. Dismantle the formwork and start making the frame. It will require bars with a size of 50 × 50 mm or more, the amount of material is easy to calculate. It is necessary to add the length of the four uprights to the sum of the two perimeters.

Step 6. Make a base for the uprights. You can connect the bars in half a tree; a jumper should be made in the middle of the base, it will serve as an additional support for the wooden shower grill. Make sure that all corners are straight; you can connect the bars with nails or self-tapping screws. The base bars (frames) should lie approximately in the middle of the concrete slab, the specific dimensions do not matter.

Important. Be sure to soak the base with an effective antiseptic several times. It is not necessary to lay waterproofing between the frame and the concrete, it will only harm. The fact is that water gets onto the insulation from above and cannot be absorbed into the concrete. Consequently, wooden structures contact with water for a long time.

Step 7. Saw off the vertical racks to size, you need 4 of them. It is better to saw with an electric hand saw, if it is not there, then you can use an ordinary hacksaw.

Step 8. Begin installing the uprights. For fixing it is better to use galvanized metal corners. They greatly simplify and facilitate the work and guarantee the proper stability of the structure. It is impossible to install vertical racks on your own, involve an assistant. Temporarily fasten the racks with any pieces of boards, in the future they will be replaced with real stops. Constantly check the verticality of the racks, use a level.

Step 9... Make a second square out of the bars, the dimensions are identical to the first, a water tank will be installed on it. If the container has a large volume, then you will have to put several additional jumpers, the distance between them depends on the size of the container.

Step 10. Use the corners to secure the top square to the uprights. Check all elements of the frame with a level, correct errors if necessary. You can put wooden wedges at the joints, this will not affect the strength and stability of the structure.

Step 11. Remove temporary spacers and install permanent ones one at a time. Use the same blocks as for making the frame. The length of the spacers should be equal to the distance between the vertical posts, saw the ends at an angle of 90 °. For fixing, use the same galvanized metal corners. Spacers are the most critical part of the frame, take all measures to ensure maximum strength.

Step 12. The frame is ready - start trimming the side surfaces. Any material is used for cladding. To enter, you can make doors or use a retractable curtain. If the sheathing is solid, then windows should be provided under the ceiling. Leave the usual holes, you can close them with glass or foil. It is recommended to seal the cuts of the cladding at the outer corners with smooth edged boards.

Step 13. Place a container with water on the roof of the frame.

Practical advice. If you plan to take a shower in rainy weather, then the roof should be covered with a piece of metal profile, and a hole should be made under the outlet of the shower head.

Step 14. Color wooden surfaces durable paint for outdoor use.

You can install electric heating elements in the tank for heating water, but you must certainly follow the rules of the PUE.

Step-by-step instructions for building a shower with a metal frame

To make the frame, you will need a metal profile pipe, a grinder, welding machine, tape measure and level.

After manufacturing, metal surfaces are recommended to be protected from corrosive processes with paint for outdoor use. The amount of metal is determined based on the dimensions of the frame, as we described above. It is better to use a purchased water container, according to its dimensions, the length and width of the structure are adjusted.

Step 1. Draw a sketch of the wireframe showing the length of each element. Take your time, think carefully about ways to strengthen the uprights. To strengthen the loaded nodes, you can use pieces of sheet metal with a thickness of at least 1 mm. Prepare squares or triangles from it with a side of 10-15 cm. Make sure that the angle is right and the cuts are even.

Step 2... Cut off the workpiece with a grinder. It is necessary to cut in compliance with all safety rules, the grinder is a very traumatic tool. If you have many of the same parts, it is recommended that you first accurately measure and cut one, and then use it as a template. This improves the accuracy of the elements.

Important. Make sure cutting disc rotated in the desired direction. If installed correctly, the sparks should fly off towards the master, but for some it is inconvenient to work this way and they change the direction of rotation. It is very dangerous, during the bite, the grinder is thrown at the worker, which can cause serious injuries. It is impossible to hold the tool with your hands, the ejection force is too great.

Step 3. Start welding the frame. To weld was durable, withstand welding conditions. The electrode thickness and current values ​​depend on the profile parameters. For the frame, it is sufficient that the pipes have a wall 1–2 mm thick; such rolled products have the required physical strength and will fully withstand the load of a water tank. For welding, we recommend using an electrode Ø 2 mm, make sure that the slag is evenly blown off the surface of the molten metal and the seam is continuous.

How to weld the structure correctly?

1. Prepare an even workplace, the dimensions should be such that the largest elements fit freely.
2. Place two parts to be welded on the work table, check their position under a square. As we already mentioned, the angle should be right, and the parts should lie in the same plane.
3. Grab the parts on one side, the tack is no more than a centimeter long, let the metal cool down. During cooling, the knot will lead to the side, the correct position will be violated.
4. Adjust the corners with a hammer, turn the parts over seamy side... Check the dimensions and position again.
5. Carefully weld the parts on the other side, you can now make a seam along the entire length.
6. Flip the assembly over again and make a full weld on the tack weld. Simultaneously weld metal pipes from all sides.
7. Remove slag from the seam surface and check the quality of the weld. If there are large shells, then re-suture.
8. Remove sharp streaks of metal with a grinder.

Thus, you can independently prepare two side planes of the frame, it remains to connect them into a single structure. It is very difficult to do this alone; it is better to call an assistant. One will hold the elements, and the second will weld them. It is necessary to constantly check the corners, do not rush. Practice shows that alteration of an incorrectly welded frame always takes much more time than a careful check of the dimensions and spatial position during the procurement of structural elements.

It is better to make vertical racks and a platform for a tank from a rectangular or square pipe, with the same dimensions as a round one, they have significantly best performance physical strength in bending and compression. As bridges, in addition to sheets in the corners, you can use any wire rod, square or reinforcement. There are still pieces of a profile pipe of sufficient length - use them.

Step 4. At the bottom, weld the area under the sheathing boards. The dimensions do not matter, it is intended only for an emphasis. The grille can be made non-separable or assembled from separate elements. For manufacturing, take smooth lumber, the thickness of the boards or slats should withstand the weight of the washable. If you have thin materials, make some jumpers for them.

Step 5. Place the frame in place of the shower. It can be a concrete platform or ordinary temporary stone stops. The second option is preferable for several reasons. Firstly, there is no need to engage in earth and concrete work. Secondly, at any time, if necessary, the shower can be moved to another place.

Metal frame - old wire-wound grille

If at the bottom of the vertical struts, the legs are welded with support pads made of sheet steel. The dimensions of the platforms are approximately 20 × 20 cm, which is sufficient to guarantee the stability of the structure. Such a platform makes the shower more mobile when transporting; installation requires only a little leveling of the ground under the support platforms, this work takes several minutes.

Practical advice. Many are worried about water drainage. If your booth is located next to the entrance of the house, and everywhere on the personal plot sidewalk paths, it is recommended to make a dirty water accumulator. If the shower is located at the back of buildings, then you can not waste time and effort building bends. For hygiene procedures, 10-15 liters of water is enough for one person; such a small amount will be absorbed into the ground without any problems. For complete peace of mind, you can dig a hole under the shower for 2-3 car tires, water will accumulate in it. After transferring the frame, the tires are removed, and the pit is covered with earth.

Step 6. Level the cabin, make sure that the racks are strictly vertical, and the platform for the tank is horizontal.

Step 7. Clean the surface metal structure from rust, oily stains and dirt, check the stability of the frame with your hands. Everything is normal - you can start painting. Choose the color of the paint as desired, the main thing is that it is suitable for staining metal surfaces and for outdoor use. Do not be too lazy to paint very high quality, use brushes, carefully rub the paint into the frame. If one layer is not enough for an even coverage, then you will have to repeat.

Metal frame coated with primer

Step 8. Place a container under water on the upper platform, attach a shower head. If desired, you can make an additional outlet to collect warm water for various household purposes.

Water supply through a tee with taps on branches

If there are no doors in the cab, and only a plastic curtain is hung, then the wind can blow it inside the cab. This creates certain inconveniences while taking a shower. There are several ways to correct the situation:

1. Attach to the curtain at several binding points. Enough two about the middle of the height.
2. Hang any pendants next to the plastic curtain. The main selection criterion is weight. The heavier they are, the better they will hold the curtain.

If there is a desire to increase the comfort of taking a shower, then it is better to attach a door. For its manufacture, you can use both sawn timber and rolled metal. The design of the doors is elementary, they are hung on the side vertical supports.

During the manufacture of the frame, think about this moment, it will take a little material and time, and the convenience of using the shower will increase significantly. The compartment also needs to install wood grates for the legs.

Silicone mat to prevent slipping on wet boards

If children will use the shower, be sure to install a shower head with a flexible hose for them. Position the tap for switching the water supply at such a height that children can reach it without any problems on their own.

Video - Garden Shower Options