One of the most effective design tricks is the use of lighting effects. Often it is the light that gives the interior a zest. A backlit plasterboard ceiling is one of the most common options. It is good because, if you wish, you can do it yourself, with your own hands.

Main design differences

Backlight plasterboard ceiling it can be hidden and open. Open - Spotlights that are fully or partially visible. The hidden one is called so because only its radiation is visible. Therefore, when installing a plasterboard ceiling with hidden illumination, the lower level boxes are made with a shelf on which the lighting fixtures are placed.

This shelf can be open or closed and, depending on this, and the position of the light sources changes the width and brightness of the strip of light on the ceiling.

How the light flux changes depending on the shape of the shelf and the location of the light source

Backlight box design

To make such a box for ceiling lighting, you need two types of profiles:

In the version shown in the photo above, the shelf does not lean on anything. The rigidity of the gypsum board itself is enough to keep the light backlight. In this case, the weight of the lighting elements must be taken into account. The heaviest are the lamps daylight, but they have practically not been used recently, since there are other options that are more economical in energy consumption and easier to install (LED strips, duralight).

There is a second construction. Here the extension of the shelf rests on elongated cross members. If the previous construction seems unreliable to you, you can do this. Only in this case, a little more bearing profile will be required. The photo shows an example of organizing a two-level flow from drywall with backlight.

The exact same scheme can be implemented in a single-level version. If your main ceiling is in good condition, you can only make a perimeter box. An example of an assembled frame for lighting is below. It remains to make an inner side, and hem the frame from the bottom.

A backlit plasterboard ceiling does not always have straight lines. They are simply the easiest to implement. But the same patterns are done with curved lines. The result is very beautiful false ceilings.

Only at large distances from load-bearing walls it is necessary to additionally fix the bearing profile either to the ceiling or to the profiles of the previous level. It is more convenient to do this with suspensions.

Sources of light

When planning to make the illumination of plasterboard ceilings, one must remember that this is not lighting at all, but only a way to decorate the room. The stream of light is diffused. Initially, it is fused onto the ceiling, and then into the room. And it adds almost nothing to the overall illumination of the room. With its help, you can visually "raise" the ceiling, make it one of the components of the interior, but this element cannot be considered lighting. Lighting will have to be taken care of separately: to install built-in lamps, wall or traditional - chandeliers.

Backlighting can be done using different light sources, but recently three types have been used:

• LED
  • tapes;
  • duralight.
• Neon tubes.

LED strips and duralight

This is a series of LEDs in series. Their peculiarity lies in the fact that they are powered from 12 V or 24 V. This power can be provided using an adapter that converts the voltage of a 220 V household network into a lower one. There are monochrome ribbons (white, red, blue, green) that are designated SMD or universal RGB when marking.

Monochrome always emit one color, the color of universal ones can vary. RGB tapes work only with a controller and a remote control. On command from the control panel, they change the shade (the number of colors can be different - from tens to hundreds), in some models the intensity of the glow can also change.

By the type of execution, LED strips are:

• Regular. They do not have a protective coating and can only be used in dry rooms.
• Waterproof. Their surface is covered with varnish. Can be used with backlighting wet rooms- kitchen, bathroom.
• Moisture resistant. Sealed in a polymer tube (called duralight) or housing. They are rarely used for room illumination, more often in aquariums, swimming pools, etc.

The choice is clear. Select the type of tape depending on the conditions of the room. , and we will talk about the good or bad LEDs in the backlight.

First, about the merits:

• Low power consumption. They are very economical. Considering that this is only decoration, I don't want to spend large sums on its content.
• Do not get warm. Only the power supply can get warm, the LEDs themselves do not heat up. This is important if the ceiling is wooden.
• Long service life. Counts in thousands of hours. Under normal power supply, they burn out very rarely (do not exceed the current for which they are intended).
• Low price. SMD 35 * 28 tape 5 meters long and 120 pcs / m density costs about $ 2-3. Approximately the same should be paid for the adapter. True, these are the prices of Aliexpress. In stores, everything is much more expensive (2-3 times), although you will not go broke either.
• Simple installation. On the back surface of the tape is applied adhesive composition... Remove the protective layer and stick in the right place... If the surface is rough, you can "shoot" with staples from construction stapler, but it is better not to punch the tape itself.

Now about the disadvantages. First and foremost: LEDs firmly illuminate all surface flaws. Therefore, the requirements for the quality of the ceiling finish are very high. Second disadvantage: the presence of adapters. They need to be attached somewhere. Probably that's all.

Neon tubes

These are glass tubes filled with a mixture of inert and luminous gases. The brightness of the glow changes when the current strength changes, which is regulated by the convector. These devices are installed every 5 meters, their power consumption is about 100 W, they do not make noise during operation.

Also, a step-up transformer is required for operation: normal voltage is not enough for neon to work. Transformers are installed every 6 meters. But they can hum during work, and also - warm up and electricity, of course, "pull" pretty well. The whole system consumes enough a large number of electricity, which, together with the fragility of the tubes and the rather high complexity of installation, makes it not very attractive compared to LEDs.

But neon cords have recently appeared. They come immediately with a controller and all you need to do is press a button. They are powered by AA batteries. But the power of such illumination for the ceiling is definitely not enough. They can be used in conjunction with LEDs to illuminate interior details.

Installation of ceiling lighting around the perimeter with step-by-step photos

Main ceiling in this option putty, because the first tier was not done. Only the box was attached around the perimeter: the height is already small and 7-8 cm required for organizing the suspended one are critical.

There is a place for the cornice near the window, the width of the box is 60 cm, it is lowered by 12 cm relative to the main ceiling, the height of the side is about 5 cm, the protruding part is 6 cm, the corners are rounded.

The first method was chosen - a step under illumination without support. Since the illumination is planned from the usual led strip, its carrying capacity is more than sufficient.

First, markings are made on the ceiling. All the specified dimensions are set aside, lines are drawn with the help of a paint cord. Please note that the line on the ceiling is laid at a distance of 54 cm, and not 60 cm, as in the first diagram. It is obtained taking into account the fact that the step is pushed forward by 6 cm.

When drawing rounds, their center is made not in the place where the profile is attached, but taking into account the protruding step: this way the element turns out to be more expressive.

Profile guides are attached along the marked lines (CD or PNP in the marking). Fastened to dowels with a pitch of 50 cm. Drilled immediately through the metal. Having installed the plug, the dowel-nail was twisted.

Where it is necessary to form a rounding, the walls (sidewalls) of the profile are notched, the back remains intact. After that, the profile can be laid out in a circle.

From the front side to the guide profile on the ceiling, we attach a strip of drywall 12 cm wide.This will be the back side of our box. We fix it around the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws with a screw at a distance of about 10 cm.

On the back side of the installed side, we attach vertical posts from the CD profile (ceiling). Their length is small - 9.8 cm (12 cm box height, minus 1 cm for the installation of profiles, and another minus 1.2 cm for the thickness of the gypsum board screwed from below).

In each section, the bottom is trimmed. The side walls are removed so that another guide profile can be screwed on. As a result, its bottom shelf should be flush with the profile bolted to the wall. The installation step of the vertical racks is about 40-50 cm.

We fasten short vertical pieces around the perimeter

The next step: we fasten the PNP profile, which goes along the bottom of the boat. It is also installed on self-tapping screws with a pitch of 10-12 cm.

They connect two guide profiles: the one that is screwed on the wall and the one that is attached to the main side. They are made from a supporting profile with a step of 40-50 cm.

We proceed to the design of the roundings. To make the strip bent along the required trajectory, we take a strip of drywall about 15 cm wide.Cut it in 5 cm increments and break the gypsum. The result is pieces of plaster that stick to the cardboard.

Now we attach such pieces to the profile. For each fragment - one self-tapping screw, approximately in the middle of the width, so as not to burst.

Using the laser level, transfer the height markings to the inner side. If there is no laser level, use a water level and draw a line with a pencil.

Then we take a piece of the bearing profile 9.8 cm long, only we cut it both from above and below. Approximately in the middle of the arc, we wind one edge behind the profile, fasten it with a self-tapping screw.

Then we take a piece of the profile cut into fragments (as they did when forming a circle on the ceiling) and fasten it along the mark.

Finished rounding "from the inside"

Now the extra pieces of plasterboard can be removed. They are cut to the level with the lower edge of the profile, carefully cutting the paper and breaking off small fragments.

The next step in making a backlit plasterboard ceiling is putty. The ceiling and the main side are putty. This is the most convenient moment for this. Later, the hemming from the bottom and the protruding cornice will interfere.

The most convenient way is to cut a square, then cut it off on one side. First, we fasten it in straight lines. Then, gradually, in an arc, drawing the required shape of the edge.

First you can draw, then bite off in small pieces along this line. Smooth out irregularities with a wallpaper knife.

No news: for the roundings we cut the sidewalls, bend them with the required diameter and set them in place, fixing them with self-tapping screws.

If you plan to do LED backlight plasterboard ceiling, it's time to fix the tape. Then it will be very uncomfortable. It is glued in the right place, if necessary, setting some kind of inclined plane.

Next, a strip of drywall 5 cm wide is attached to the profile. Of the features, it is fastened in the middle, and not above and below: the height is too small. Bends are also familiar. We cut a strip every 4-5 cm, break the plaster and fix it.

In this version, in order to facilitate the work and give the ceiling a finished look, fillets (ceiling plinth) are glued to the side. Similar ones are glued at the junction of the box and the wall.

Now it remains to putty everything and achieve a flat surface. Almost everything. The backlit plasterboard ceiling is ready, it remains to install the backlight itself. And it can be different.

Another option can be seen in video format, but with a working backlight.

The installation of a bi-level stream is demonstrated in the following video. The steps are shown schematically, but the assembly of the first level is clear. So that might be helpful.

How can you arrange a plasterboard ceiling with lighting (photo)

LED plasterboard ceiling lighting - only spectacular design reception... Lighting needs to be taken care of separately

Ceiling lighting in the bedroom

A multi-level plasterboard ceiling is modern solution that will add style to the room and make it interesting. This ceiling has its own undeniable advantages... It hides all slab differences and irregularities, making the ceiling perfectly smooth. All communications can be hidden under the plates, so there is no need to make grooves in the walls for electrical wiring and air-exhaust elements. And if you place modern, lightweight insulating materials, this will additionally insulate the room and improve sound insulation. Such a ceiling can be given the most refined and graceful shapes. You can easily install a variety of lamps - spot and pendant.

Materials for work

Drywall is an environmentally friendly and non-flammable material. Consists of a gypsum board covered with a cardboard layer. The ceiling plasterboard is 8mm thick, flexible and lightweight enough to be easily cut with a construction knife. Even beginners can install a two-level ceiling with their own hands.

For work you will need metal profiles, on which the plasterboard slabs are fixed. They are of two types - guide profiles and with stiffeners. You should also purchase special screws.

Choosing a shape

The plasterboard construction will "eat" the height of the ceilings. The first level lowers the surface by 3-5 cm, and the second by 10 cm.

If the ceilings are relatively flat, then they can serve as the first level on which curly plasterboard protrusions can be fixed.

Smooth and rounded elements look very good on the ceiling, but strict geometric lines will also fit harmoniously, for example, a protruding threshold along the entire perimeter of the ceiling, which even a beginner can handle. It is quite simple to work with drywall, even a simple ledge can be rounded out in the corners, thereby making it more attractive. Behind such a threshold, you can hide the cornice, and then the illusion of curtains falling from the ceiling will be created. It is possible to hide electrical wiring and install a series of spotlights over specific areas or around the perimeter.

The desired shape of the ceiling is first born on paper, in the form of a sketch. On which, apart from geometric shape the location of the vertical posts should be noted, at a distance of 30-40 cm. In the rounded corners, the posts should be located more tightly. After that, the drawing is transferred to the ceiling.

Installation of the frame begins at a lower level. The contours of the future ceiling are made from the guide profiles. Rounded and smooth lines are obtained by notching the profile at the bending points with metal scissors and bending it around the circumference. The guiding profiles defining the shape are connected with racks with stiffening ribs of such a length to which the second level of the ceiling should be lowered. It is better to immediately prepare all the rounded corners so that they are the same.

The frame is attached to the surface along a predetermined contour on special hangers for drywall "crabs", with which you can adjust the height. The suspensions are placed at a distance of 40 cm. In the corners, the structure is fixed rigidly; additional supports can be added. During installation, the frame must be measured with a level. After fixing the main structure that defines the contour of our future ceiling, the rack profiles are installed at a distance of 60 cm, which are fastened with transverse jumpers, also observing a step of 60 cm.

Sometimes the transverse jumpers are not fixed, so that they can be moved, adjusting to the fastening of the drywall joints.

The hangers are fixed to the ceiling using two dowels with an 8 * 80 screw. The profiles are interconnected with self-tapping screws for metal 3.5 * 11.

Installing Sheets

Once the frame is assembled and leveled, the cavities can be filled with insulating material, fiberglass or foam sheets and the electrical wiring installed. Then the ceiling is mounted. The sheets should be pre-cut on the floor. It is convenient to immediately cut holes for spotlights. It is advisable to leave allowances of a few centimeters along the rounding line.

It is better to trim and remove excess on the spot than to get an unwanted gap between the plates. To make it easier to bend the drywall covering the smooth and rounded elements during installation, the part can be cut from the reverse side with transverse slots and the material can be broken along them. Some advise to just moisten the sheets a little for this purpose.

We proceed to the installation of the plates, using self-tapping screws with a fine thread, you can take the size 3.5 * 25 and 3.5 * 32. The operation is best done with a screwdriver. The self-tapping screw is screwed in, slightly sinking the cap into the surface.

It is unacceptable for it to go through the sheet completely, if this happens, you need to retreat a few centimeters and redo the mount.

The fastener pitch is 15 cm. The sheet can be released by fixing it with at least two self-tapping screws along each side. It is advisable to use whole sheets to get neat joints and cut material less. If two cut slabs fall on the joint, their edge from the front part must be slightly scraped off with a knife obliquely in order to ideally align the seam with plaster in the future. After the main body of the ceiling is fixed, the sill sheathing begins. First, the elements of the side part are attached and only then the lower plates.

When all slabs are in place, the ceiling is primed with a universal primer. After complete drying, all seams are glued with a mounting tape-serpyanka, and all outer corners are fixed and leveled with special corners. For straight lines use metal corners, and for smooth and rounded corners - a special flexible plastic corner. The technique of its fastening is simple, a layer of plaster is spread on the corner of the structure, into which the corner is recessed, and the excess solution protruding through the holes is removed with a spatula. After drying with the second layer of plaster, the corner is finally removed. You should also putty all the caps of the screws. Pre-check if there are any speakers, and twist them manually.

Plaster all joints flush with the slab. After all the leveling elements of the plaster are dry, the entire surface of the ceiling is putty, you can immediately use the finishing solution. The surfaces are allowed to dry and cleaned from irregularities and sagging of the plaster with a construction grinding fine-grained float. If the holes for the spotlights were not previously made in the plates, they can be cut out with a special drill-glass of the required diameter, the wires of the electrical wiring are pulled into the holes.

At this stage, the ceiling molding is glued onto a special glue or plaster. After that, the entire surface is primed, preparing for painting. Painting different levels of the ceiling in different colors, it is advisable to glue the joints with a special paper adhesive tape, which will eliminate paint smudges. First, the ceiling is painted, and then the baguettes. After the end of the work, spotlights are mounted, and pendant lights are installed using special dowels or drywall fixtures.

Video

This video will demonstrate the installation of a complex two-level ceiling.

Various niches (with decorative lighting or simply highlighted in color), ledges and shelves formed by wall elements and having both regular and most bizarre shapes - they diversify and complement the design of the room, hide technological communications, brighten up the possible nondescript contours of the original layout of the room. Non-standard solutions allow you to add individuality, set the "mood" of the whole room or part of it: create a cozy corner in the room or, on the contrary, emphasize the business aspect of the room.

Protrusions and niches can of course be made of bricks and various blocks, bent elements can be sculpted from papier-mâché or cast from plaster, but in 99% of cases the task is solved easier and more economically - using plasterboard structures. It is not difficult to mount drywall structures on the wall with your own hands, you will need a little patience and perseverance.

To create drywall structures on the wall, you will need materials:

• UD-profile (the so-called "guide");
• plasterboard sheets 9mm thick ("ceiling");
• corner protection profile;
• a box of screws for a profile (the so-called "bugs");
• a box of screws for attaching drywall to the profile;
• fine-grained gypsum plaster for final finishing ("finish");
• it is possible to pack sets of dowels for fastening to a concrete / brick wall, if required.

From the tool, you must have:

• scissors for metal for working with a profile;
• screwdriver;
• an elongated screwdriver tip (can be made from an inexpensive suitable screwdriver by breaking the handle);
• long metal ruler;
• construction knife (with replaceable break-off blades);
• wide roller with a long nap (for wetting drywall).

The possibilities of forms of plasterboard structures are wide, but not limitless. Our future structure must be mentally divided into its constituent parts - individual elements that will have their own separate frame from the profile. Individual elements can be in the form of a parallelepiped, a truncated pyramid, a sector, an arc - it all depends on your imagination.

The edges of the elements can be flat or arched. Moreover, an arc can be two faces at once, and an arc can have several bends. The minimum thickness of such an element is limited by the width of the base (or edge) of the UD-profile + the thickness of the drywall sheet. The maximum size is limited by the imagination and the size of the room.

Step-by-step installation procedure of different complexity wall structures I will describe it from drywall using the example of an apartment wall monolithic house, in which the load-bearing columns protrude from the wall by 250 mm from the builders, forming not very attractive rectangular niches.

In the area of ​​the left niche in the room, a place for rest and communication of the family was designed - this means the place of the TV in this niche. Around the TV we design simple rectangular shelves in 2 rows. We will have backlit shelves. We decorate the top of the niche with an arch.

Photo of niches and drywall shelves for example -

The niche will be two tones darker, and the color is slightly colder than the rest of the walls, which will visually make the niche deeper and the room larger. Before starting work, we lay the wiring for future illumination, powering the TV and related devices, wiring the speaker system, Internet and TV cables. In the area of ​​the right niche in the room, there is a working corner with a table, space for a laptop, shelves with office equipment and books above the table. It turns out such a nook-office.

We decorate the right niche with a wide narrow arc with narrow decorative shelves, leaving space for a bookshelf. Although the "recreation area" and the "study" are planned to be separated by a narrow long aquarium, the design of the structures of the two niches harmoniously overlaps, forming one whole.

This is achieved by keeping the same level for the key points of the two structures. For example, the top edge of the bottom shelf on the left is flush with the bottom edge of the arc on the right, and the top edge of the bottom shelf on the right is aligned with the top edge of the top shelf on the left, and so on.

It is not noticeable with a naked eye, but our subconscious mind fixes this fact, unmistakably capturing the ordered in the seemingly disordered. Without a drawing, it will not be possible to maintain such proportions - every millimeter is important, especially for curved surfaces.

Thus, we get 3 types of structures, different in the complexity of manufacture, the combination and modification of which can be used to obtain almost any conceived structure:

• rectangular shelf;
• arch;
• thin decorative arch.

Rectangular shelf

The rectangular shelf is the most simple construction on a plasterboard wall. The installation technology is the same as in the manufacture drywall box: the frame is made of UD-profile directly on the wall. To do this, first we fasten the contour rectangle of our future shelf to the wall. We make the frame parallel to the wall of the face, fasten the edges of the frame perpendicular to the wall. The frame is ready.

It is not worth overdoing it with additional partitions in the frame, it is enough to make only the ribs. The frame itself may not be rigid enough, but sheathing the edges of the shelf with plasterboard, we will give the structure the necessary rigidity.

Use a level when installing. Overlapped and skewed edges look terrible, unless, of course, this is provided for by the design. So you will have to work hard with accuracy, both with the implementation of the frame, and with cutting and screwing drywall. Minor defects will be hidden with putty, but it is much easier to avoid these defects than then apply layer by layer of putty in an attempt to rectify the situation.

Cutting drywall exactly as easy as shelling pears. You will need a long metal ruler and a construction knife. We draw a knife along the ruler from the edge of the slab to the next edge, cutting the cardboard layer. At the edge of the table we break the plaster slab - the break will be along the cut line. We cut the cardboard from the opposite edge along the break. Angular perforated profile that protects the corners does not need to be screwed on. It is glued to the putty and closed with it.

Arch

The arch is a little more difficult to make than a rectangular shelf, but the principle is the same, except for the bent edge. It should be noted that for curly designs there is a special sheet of drywall with notches and an elastic backing. However, such material is much more expensive, and you can't buy it everywhere. We'll get by with a 9mm thick ceiling tile.

We need a template for applying the bend contour to the wall and drywall sheet. To make a template, we print our drawing in natural sizes, glue the sheets and cut out the template. We make the frame for the bent edge from the same UD-profile, but cut the side edges of the profile symmetrically to the base with a step of ~ 40 mm. It turns out such a flexible "ridge of a lizard with thorns" from the base of the profile and protruding rectangles - ribs.

For these same rectangles we fasten the profile to the wall, orienting the base of the profile along the contour previously drawn on the wall. The edge of the structure parallel to the wall is assembled directly on the drywall sheet along the applied bend contour, we cut off the excess material at the bend directly along the frame. We collect the box, in the end we leave only the bent edge.

We will bend a drywall sheet using plain water- just moisten the side of the sheet with a roller, which will be with a large radius. Before starting the installation of the bent edge, it is necessary to install the support for the sheet from the edge from which we begin to bend - it will do wooden block or a piece of profile. Is the screwdriver charged, are the screws conveniently at hand? Begin!

Everything needs to be done quickly and the first time. Only cardboard and the nearest layer of gypsum should get wet. If the sheet is waterlogged, the gypsum will become loose, it will crumble, and the screws will push the sheet with their heads and pass through. After all, the sheet, like a spring, will try to take an even position. A too dry leaf will break. So we go through a roller, abundantly moistened with water (what would flow), quickly apply the sheet to the stop and, pressing it to the frame, quickly fasten the sheet with a small step, bending the sheet step by step more and more. We go parallel on two sides to avoid skewing. If everything is done correctly, and the bend radius is not extremely small, then there should be no problems. Using this method, we can also perform an S-shaped bend, if your design requires it.

Thin decorative arch

The arc differs in installation from the arch in that it has two curved edges. Exactly so much the arc is more difficult to make than the arch. According to the design, the arc thickness was assumed to be 60 mm. Therefore, a profile with a base of 40 mm was chosen, and the cuts on the profile were made along one of the ribs and the base. That is, the second rib of the profile remained the bearing element of the profile.

The rest of the procedure is the same with the installation of the arch. In our case, the edge of the arc with a large radius at the extreme points is close to the wall. This means that it will not work to mount the structure directly on the wall. The wall will prevent screws from being tightened at the edges of the arc. We mount the arc on a temporary basis, for example on wooden board or an old door. Let the drywall dry thoroughly. We unscrew the edge parallel to the shield, unscrew the structure from the temporary base and transfer finished structure on the wall.

Decorative coating

Matte paint perfectly emphasizes the grace of drywall structures on the wall and is the easiest to apply decorative coating... It's just as easy to choose a dark and cool base color to highlight or accentuate a design. However, wall paint just as well emphasizes all defects, especially shells when putty.

Decorative plaster great alternative in this case, hides minor defects, you can flexibly select the color, but it is more expensive and more difficult to apply. Wallpaper can also be used, but provided that the plasterboard structure does not have much complex shape otherwise, this process threatens to turn into a very difficult task.

Express your personality! Hope this article helps you.

The main task of renovation in most houses and apartments is to bring the walls into normal condition... After all, a couple of decades ago, almost no one talked about perfect smooth walls and did not think. Aligned according to the principle "somehow". You can correct the situation according to all the rules: knock down the old plaster and completely plaster on the lighthouses. This is correct and reliable. But long, dirty, expensive. It is easier to use the so-called dry methods: level the surface of the wall with plasterboard (GKL). The second task that often has to be solved during the renovation process: redevelopment. We are removing old partitions, putting new ones. New interior and decorative partitions are also made using drywall. How to align and install drywall walls with your own hands and we will tell you in the article.

How to sheathe walls with plasterboard

To begin with, consider the case when you need to level the surface of existing walls. There are three options for attaching drywall to walls:

The latest technology - installing drywall on glue - is the fastest, but it also has drawbacks. The first - not everywhere under the finish there is glue, therefore it is problematic to hang cabinets on such a wall. If you plan to fix something to the wall in advance, lay a continuous layer of glue at this height or install a foundation beam, which will also be an additional beacon when setting the sheet level. Then the problem will be solved. Another disadvantage is that there are small differences. That is, the surface is imperfect. The difference is 2-3 mm. The sheet bends slightly between the "pieces" of glue. However, this is a good way to quickly level a wall.

For more information on how to glue drywall on the wall, see the video.

Fastening to the frame

Since when gluing drywall to the wall, no fasteners are needed, we will talk about the frame and mainly about the metal one. The rules for attaching to a wooden one are the same, just self-tapping screws for wood are used.

GKL dimensions and purpose

A few words about what sizes the sheets are and how to put drywall on the walls. The standard dimensions are as follows: the width is always 1.2 m, the height is 2.5 and 3 meters. Sometimes there is a "non-standard" of shorter length: it is easier to work with small ones, but more seams are obtained, which then have to be repaired. GKL thickness:

• 12.5 mm - universal material for walls and ceilings;
• 6 mm and 9 mm for curved surfaces.

It is often said that 9 mm sheets are ceiling sheets. But manufacturers do not have such recommendations. Any of the manufacturing plants positions the thin sheets as those used for finishing curved surfaces.

Bevels are made along the long edges of the sheet. They are needed so that the joint can be glued with reinforcing tape and sealed with putty. It is the side where there is a bevel that is the front. It is deployed inside the room.

How to dock

If it is necessary to join sheets in height, arrange the joints so that a long longitudinal line is not obtained. They say that the sheets are stacked at random or with a shift. In this case, it is desirable that the displacement was at least 40-60 cm. Long joints are the most likely places for cracks to appear. By shifting the seam, you are almost 100% likely to get rid of cracks (for an example of laying sheets, see the figure).

If the wall is sheathed with two layers of plasterboard, then the vertical seams are also shifted. The sheet on the top must be installed so that the joint of the bottom one falls in its middle (shift by half the width - 60 cm).

How to fasten and with what step

During installation, the sheet is pressed against the frame and fixed with a screwdriver and special self-tapping screws with flat heads. If the frame is assembled from metal, take TN25 self-tapping screws (3.5x25 mm). In stores they are called "for drywall". Length - 25 mm, color - black (more likely to break) or white. For a frame made of wood, select those close in size with the flattest head: there will be less putty.

It is important to tighten the fasteners to the required depth during installation: the cap should be sunk into the sheet, but the cardboard should not tear. It is also necessary that the self-tapping screw be installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet: this way there is less chance of damaging the cardboard layer, which in this structure is responsible for rigidity.

To learn how you can simplify the work and make the self-tapping screw go to the desired depth, watch the video.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the distance between the posts should be at least 60 cm. Then it turns out that each sheet is attached to three vertical profiles: two at the edges and one in the middle. In this case, the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the profile.

Having stepped back from the edge 10-12 mm, screws are screwed in. They can be placed, as in the figure above, one opposite the other, or they can be offset, as in the figure below. Installation step - 250-300 mm. Fastened along the perimeter and along the middle profile.

One more important point: when cutting out sheets, keep in mind that its height should be 10-12 mm shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. This is necessary in case of shrinkage: so that the wall or partition has the ability to compensate for the change in height without cracks (especially important for wooden and panel houses).

These are, perhaps, all the main points of working with drywall (without taking into account the peculiarities of mounting profiles).

Plasterboard partition

Installing the partition is a little more difficult, therefore, we will describe the process in steps from a photo.

Markup

First, mark the installation site of the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser plane builder (laser level). This line is applied to walls, floors and ceilings.

If there is no laser level, you will have to use the usual building ( good quality) and a plumb line. First, mark a line on the floor - this is easiest. Then, using a level, transfer it to the walls. If both lines on the walls are vertical, the line connecting them must be exactly above the line on the floor. Whether this is true or not, you can check with a plumb line, lowering it from the mark on the ceiling to the floor line.

Partition marking using a level and a plumb line

It is necessary to achieve a perfect match - the quality of all work depends on it.

Assembling the frame

We will consider the assembly of the frame from galvanized profiles. Guide profiles are installed along the marked line on the floor and ceiling. It is marked UW or PN - bearing profile. They are usually fastened with dowels - 6 * 40 mm or 6 * 60 mm, the distance between two dowels is 30-40 cm.

PN-profile has a standard depth (wall height) - 40 mm, but it can be different widths 50 mm, 75 mm or 100 mm. The thickness of the partition depends on the width of the bearing profile, as well as the thickness of the insulation and / or soundproofing material that can be laid there.

Bearing racks are inserted into the guide profiles. They are labeled CW or PS - rack-mount profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves make it more rigid, increasing its load-bearing capacity. The width of the rack profiles depends on the width of the carriers: they must be the same. That is, the racks must be the same width. It is between them that the insulation is then installed.

The racks are attached to the guides in two ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work with a cutter - a special tool that breaks through and bends metal to the sides, holding two parts together. Amateur builders, when working independently with drywall, are attached to "fleas" (also called bugs and seeds) - small self-tapping screws with a screw in the lower part - TEX 9.5 (3.5 * 9.5 mm). They drill the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no need to drill holes). The racks are attached on each side with at least two self-tapping screws.

One point: if you are installing a partition in a high-rise building or on the first floor of your house, then together with the junction of the rack and the ceiling rail, put a special film or some kind of material that will prevent the appearance of a squeak. When people walk, vibrations occur, which are transmitted to the profiles, because of which they rub and squeak. The second option is to make the racks 1 cm shorter. It is more correct: both the shrinkage of the house is provided and unpleasant sounds no.

The pitch of the racks is 60 cm or less. This distance is due to the width of the sheet of plasterboard (drywall), which is standardly equal to 120 cm. As we said earlier, it turns out that each sheet is attached to three racks. So it turns out that there should be 60 cm between the verticals.

If the gap between the two racks is more than 60 cm, but less than 120 cm, a vertical profile is still placed between them in the middle, otherwise this section will "bunch" - the sheet will stagger and sag. One more point: the first rack is attached to the wall a little closer - the first sheet will be attached to the entire plane of the extreme profile, therefore the distance should be slightly less - 57.5 cm.

It is desirable to strengthen the profiles to which the doors or windows will be attached. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block. suitable size... It is inserted inside, and fastened with a pair of self-tapping screws. You need to use dry wood so that the timber does not twist.

After all the racks are exposed and secured, the structures are given greater rigidity with the help of jumpers - horizontally installed pieces of rack profiles. They are made in one of the three ways suggested in the photo. The third option is the easiest to manufacture and easy to assemble.

Jumpers are usually placed at the height where two sheets will join. Their edges are necessarily fixed, so jumpers are needed there. For the rest - in increments of 60-80 cm.If the wall is large, put it every 60 cm, if it is small, 80 cm is enough. Cross-members above the doorway are required: at the height door frame... It is also advisable to strengthen them by putting a wooden block inside.

Laying of communications

After installing all the crossbars, you can start laying communications and wiring. Desirable all electric wires mount in a corrugated sleeve. If you put the partition in wooden house or at wooden frame, it must be metallic. In houses made of non-combustible materials, in walls made of plasterboard on a frame made of galvanized steel, it is allowed to use plastic corrugated hoses made of non-combustible raw materials (there is a mark "NG").

Plasterboard cladding and heat / sound insulation

After laying the communications, they proceed to the installation of plasterboard sheets. They are mounted in the same way as for cladding. Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall cladding begins on one side. Then, on the other hand, between the profiles (bars) of the frame, an insulation and / or sound insulator is installed. After its installation, the plasterboard wall is sewn up on the other side.

Insulation for walls and drywall partitions is used as usual:

In principle, it is possible to use other heaters, but the listed ones are the most popular.

How to cut drywall

When making drywall walls with your own hands, you will have to cut sheets: they do not always become whole. To do this, you will only need a sharp clerical knife (for paper), a long, even object - a ruler, board, bar, level, rule, etc. And a wooden block a couple of meters long, but it's not necessary, it's just easier with it. That's all. A jigsaw may be needed when cutting curved lines, but there will be a lot of dust.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

• draw a line on the front side with a pencil along which you need to cut drywall;
• we apply a ruler (bar, board) along the line and cut the cardboard with a clerical knife;
• we put a bar under the cut line;
• we tap on the shorter side with our palm, which causes the plaster to break along the cut line;
• we break the sheet along the entire length of the cut;
• bend the broken piece, cut the remaining whole cardboard.

It's really very simple. The main task: to mark correctly. There are no further problems (unless the sheet is broken).

Video lessons

Not all subtleties can be described, some are better to see. We have selected videos in which there are features of working with drywall. Basically, they relate to the assembly of the frame from profiles. This is really the most time consuming part. And on how correctly the frame will be made, it depends how flat the wall or partition will be.

How to make a plasterboard false wall

How to make reinforced racks in the partition. This method of assembling the frame is non-standard, but that does not mean that it is wrong. The racks are really stiffer. This is necessary if you build a full-fledged interior partition... Amplification will not hurt here. The disadvantages are that it will take more time, and the cost of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: smooth or corrugated. The market has different models profiles, including those with uneven and rough walls and sidewalls. With the same metal thickness, it is more rigid, which seems to be good. But how good is he at work? Watch the video.

Plasterboard partition from start to finish. Here the installation of the partition is filmed step by step. Everything is quite accessible, you can take it as a basis and build walls from drywall with your own hands.

If you need to build a wall, partition, arch or niche made of plasterboard, then it is extremely important to know not only the technical aspects of installation, but also the features of the material itself.

Peculiarities

Drywall sheet is a lightweight and flexible material with which you can quickly and easily transform an office, home or apartment. From this material, you can both erect a wall and build an ornate interior structure.

Structure drywall sheet(GKL) fully corresponds to the name: its core is made of gypsum with mineral pigments, to which the surface layer of cardboard is attached with glue.

The advantages of the material are well known to professional finishers. They are as follows:

• allow you to create perfectly flat surfaces vertically and horizontally;
• allow the construction of curvilinear structures, as well as individual elements of the most varied shapes and complexity;
• have good air permeability, promote air circulation and maintain a healthy indoor climate;
• differ in sound insulation;
• characterized by high thermal insulation;
• made of environmentally friendly materials, do not cause allergies;
• fire-resistant, not prone to spontaneous combustion, do not support combustion and protect walls in the event of a fire;

• are lightweight;
• easy to install, do not require professional skills and special equipment for cladding;
• the price of gypsum board and its consumables is affordable;
• the coating of this fiber is optimal for any type of finishing (painting, plastering, wallpapering);
• leave little waste.

The use of gypsum plasterboard can significantly reduce the time spent on finishing work, for example, a plasterboard partition can be built in a few hours, while the construction of a similar brick structure will require two or more days.

Like any building material, drywall has some drawbacks that significantly limit the scope of its use - the panels are not durable, they are destroyed by mechanical damage, and in addition, they absorb moisture.

Yes, and attaching something to such a coating is quite problematic - only dowels with screws can keep a picture or a bulky shelf on themselves. But even in this case, it is undesirable to place anything heavy, this will cause the wall to collapse at any time.

Types of structures

With the help of drywall, you can build structures that are diverse in their appearance and functionality, namely:

• walls that divide the room;
• partitions of any shape;
• complex interior installations.

A plasterboard wall or partition has practical functionality or a purely decorative function. Using sheets, you can divide the space into zones, build niches, change the location and shape of the doorway, create a false wall, and achieve increased heat and sound insulation.

Partitions made of gypsum plasterboard are considered to be more appropriate than similar installations made of other materials: brick, wood and foam blocks. Plasterboard fiber partitions are manufactured in short time, their cost is much lower than brick or wood options. The false wall inside remains hollow, which allows laying the necessary utilities and making additional insulation.

The material is lightweight and small in size, it is easy to cut, so installation can be carried out even by a person with minimal experience with the usual tools that are available in every home.

There are a great many options for partitions from gypsum plasterboard. The following are distinguished:

• by profile type: regular and arched;
• by functional purpose: temporary or capital;
• by design type: blind or with an opening for a door or window;
• by type of installation: sliding or stationary.

In addition, partitions and interior walls from gypsum boards differ in thickness and some other criteria.

Decorative plasterboard partitions, as a rule, are mounted in order to hide the flaws in the room and close the radiators. They do not require serious fasteners; they are often complemented with stylish elements: lighting, mosaics, inserts from other types of materials. Usually, the same elements are fixed with glue or installed on a frame. Models with a practical purpose are mounted when carrying out internal renovation works... They modify general form premises, contribute to its division into different zones and add additional functionality to the finishing elements. Such walls and partitions are installed in a frame way and are attached to all walls in the room.

Regardless of the type of partitions, each has the same structure, namely:

• the frame is made of wood or metal profiles;
• sheathing from GKL sheets is used for walls or partitions;
• filling the wall - glass wool or mineral wool, contributing to additional noise and heat insulation.

Depending on the technical characteristics, there are several types of drywall:

• Wall GKL It is characterized by a thickness of 12.5 mm, a width of 1.2 m, and the length of the sheet can be 2.3 or 2.5 m. It does not contain any additives, it is used for the installation of walls and partitions.
• Ceiling plasterboard has a thickness of 9.5 mm, a width of 1.2 m, a length of 2 or 2.5 m. This lightweight modification found wide application in the construction of niches and door arches, as well as in the lining of ceilings. It differs from the first option only in thickness.

• GKLV Is a moisture resistant material. Its thickness is the same as that of the wall version, the width is also standard (1.2 m), and the length is 2 or 2.3 m. A distinctive feature of the material is the introduction of moisture-resistant pigments and antifungal impregnations into the structure. Thanks to them, the material becomes hygroscopic, resists moisture and is used in rooms with high humidity (in bathrooms and shower rooms).
• GKLO Is a drywall sheet with fire retardant parameters. It has standard parameters: thickness 12.5 mm, width 1.2 m, length 2.3 or 2.5 meters. The core of this type of fiber contains active components that are resistant to high temperatures and combustion, all of which are reinforced with special fireproofing impregnations. The material is widely used in those rooms in which increased requirements are imposed fire safety, as well as for facing fireplaces and chimneys.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that the cardboard covering for all types of gypsum board is resistant to fire. This material does not burn, and the maximum is only charred. But the core resists the flame only at the GKLO.

• GKLVO Is a moisture-resistant material that combines all the advantages of GKLV and GKLO.
• Arched plasterboard used to create sophisticated undulating designs and rounded interior elements. Its width corresponds to the standards of 1.2 m, the length is presented in one version - 3 m. But the thickness of the sheet is small - only 6.5 mm. The small thickness, as well as the introduction of fiberglass threads into the composition, leads to increased flexibility and ductility of the material. Such sheets have a rather high price, and the fact that they have to be assembled in several layers makes finishing work more expensive.

Design

Plasterboard has found application in surface cladding and the creation of decorative elements in the room.

Ceiling

Today, drywall is one of the most popular materials for cladding ceilings and the construction of multi-level suspended structures. Drywall is necessary for design in the following situations:

• with irregularities in the ceiling;
• if necessary, hide the utility lines laid from above - pipes, a massive ventilation box, an unaesthetic cable and others;
• for the implementation of original interior solutions.

Ceiling decoration using gypsum board can be carried out in rooms of any type and purpose.

Walls

Almost any internal work for finishing the premises are associated with the installation of drywall. It is it that is used to create a perfectly even coating, arranging all kinds of niches and shelves, as well as constructing other elements of a design structure. In addition to the decorative function, the gypsum board also has a practical purpose - creates enhanced noise absorption and insulation of the room... Gypsum fiber sheets are mounted directly on the wall with glue or in advance assembled frame as a rule, sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm are used for this. Sometimes, to ensure greater strength of the structure, the gypsum board is laid in two or three layers.

Plasterboard cladding is carried out in any premises, it is most effective for cold walls facing the street, which freeze in winter.

A plasterboard wall with thermal insulation helps to warm the room, prevents the accumulation of dangerous condensation and the appearance of fungus. Finishing plasterboard wall can be any.

Floor

Drywall can also be used for dry flooring. Of course, exceptionally extremely durable sheets with increased abrasion resistance and resistance to mechanical damage are used for this. This coating is applied in two layers, then covered with any standard topcoat - parquet, linoleum, carpet, tiles or laminate. The advantages of this method are obvious - they are high speed of work and their efficiency.

In design, gypsum boards are often used for the construction of multi-level compositions, for example, podiums and ledges, which effectively mask unaesthetic pipes and other communications.

Partitions

For creating partitions, drywall is the number 1 material. It is it that is most often used to divide a room and create a stylish and functional space zoning. Some structures can be built on the basis of a metal profile frame, which is fixed to the walls and ceiling, and then sheathed directly with gypsum fiber plates.

Built-in niches

Shelves with drawers look very impressive in the interior. plasterboard structures, and in houses with small children, they are simply irreplaceable, because the baby will not be able to hit the sharp edges of the hanging elements. Niches are used to accommodate small decorative elements that make the room cozy. These can be photographs, small souvenirs or books. The shape of such niches can be very different. As a rule, they are equipped with lighting, which makes the interior unusual and spectacular.

Tip: when installing niches, special attention should be paid to the weight of the products that are stored in the niche. Drywall can only take light objects.

Frame

Most often, work on facing the surface with plasterboard is performed in a frame method, for this, a wooden or metal crate is mounted. At the same time, it is very important to apply the correct markings, since the strength and evenness of the future false wall to a large extent depends on the accuracy of the calculations.

To do this, first mark the place on the floor, from where the mounting of the carrier panel will begin, the resulting indicator is projected onto the ceiling - this is the length of the frame. The distance between the wall and the mark is its width. Perpendicular to the floor on a nearby wall, markings are applied for rack-mount metal profiles. The markings are presented in the form of vertical lines with a pitch of 50–60 cm; later, when the drywall is fastened to the plank, the edges of the sheet will be located along them.

When facing walls, it is important to remember that first one wall is finished, starting with the installation of guides and ending with the laying of gypsum board, and only then the transition to the next surface is made.

The work is carried out in several stages, namely:

• the marks on the floor and walls must be connected, and then guides are mounted along them;
• installation of suspensions is carried out at a distance of 60–70 cm, their center must certainly be located along the line;
• rack metal profiles are fixed in the guides so that their middle groove coincides with the upper and lower marks, and then they are connected to each other;
• the building level controls the vertical along the base and shelves, after which it is necessary to make the final fixation with self-tapping screws.

Application area

Drywall is used for a variety of options such as:

• ceiling finishes;
• installation of partitions;
• giving the walls perfect evenness;
• construction of interior compositions of various arches, shelves, baseboards;
• masking of unsightly and damaged surfaces;
• repair of old coatings;
• giving relief to surfaces;
• creation of multilevel structures;
• insulation, sound insulation of cavities and openings.

Drywall with increased moisture resistance, as a rule, is used for finishing bathrooms and kitchens. Fire-resistant modifications are widespread when lining communication shafts and air ducts, when inside it is required to conduct telephone and Internet cables, water supply systems and heating pipes, and ventilation devices... Drywall is used in both wooden and brick houses.

Plasterboard installation

The installation technology is quite simple. First, the sheet is cut. For this, a conventional construction knife with a spare block of replaceable blades is used. The sequence of actions in this case is described by the instruction, according to which it is necessary to perform the following actions:

• the sheet is laid on a clean, flat surface;
• marking is applied with a pencil;
• with a knife, the cardboard is cut with outside;

• GKL is installed on the edge of the support, the sheet is neatly broken along the notch line;
• the drywall panel is returned to its original position, placed on the edge and bent;
• the cardboard is also cut from the inside, while the blade should not go through;
• the sheet is turned over to the inside, placed on the support again and finally broken.

After the sheet is prepared, you should proceed to the direct assembly of the installation with your own hands in accordance with the step-by-step instructions.

You need to do the following:

• along the lines drawn on the ceiling and floor, guides are attached; for this, self-tapping screws are used;
• a sealing tape is placed under the fixed profile;
• strips are mounted to the profile along vertical markers, all work starts from the corners and leads to the center;
• stiffeners are fixed on self-tapping screws;

• then communications, wires and cables are carried out in the cavity, they are also filled with mineral wool;
• on top of the frame, a drywall sheet is attached directly;

• the edges of the sheets are covered with putty or a reinforcing mesh is applied, then sanded;
• a primer is applied over the panels and finishing is carried out.

It is worth paying attention to the following points when installing the gypsum board:

• the sheet is attached to metal profiles using self-tapping screws 3.5x35 mm;
• first of all, the edges of the panel are attached, and then the central part. The self-tapping screw is placed with a pitch of 10-25 cm;
• screw the self-tapping screw in such a way that the caps slightly "drowned" in the drywall, it should in no case stick out above the surface;
• if possible, before starting the cladding, it is worth watching a master class on how to install drywall.

Drywall is a very popular material, so it is widely available in hardware stores. At the same time, it absorbs moisture well, therefore, if stored improperly in a warehouse, its consumer parameters can be significantly deteriorated. To avoid problems and purchase the highest quality product, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

• try to purchase the product only in large stores that have established themselves as a reliable and stable seller, avoid dubious points of sale;
• evaluate the conditions in which the gypsum board was stored, the cleanliness of the room and the level of humidity in it;

• personally inspect each purchased sheet of gypsum board, it should not have chips and deformations. No curved bends, dents or scratches are allowed on a product of proper quality. Any violation of the integrity will entail the breaking of the entire sheet in the damaged area;
• you need to carefully monitor the loading and unloading operations. Even if a drywall sheet was purchased in perfect condition, this does not guarantee that it will arrive in the same form. If the product was purchased and paid for, but defects were discovered later, then the warranty will not be valid;
• if possible, you should not purchase the entire batch with the required quantity at once. For starters, you should buy one sheet to test it. For example, you can cut a sheet into strips, a high-quality sheet should have a core that is strictly uniform, a cut without inclusions, and a knife should go smoothly and smoothly when cutting;
• if you decide to buy a product from a dubious supplier, but at a very attractive price, then it is worth remembering that a stingy person always pays twice. Handicraft products can not only crumble and break, but also turn out to be unsafe for health.

To protect yourself from counterfeiting and marriage, you should give preference to products from well-known brands.

About 70% of the Russian construction market is occupied by the products of the German concern Knauf... This giant has manufacturing facilities all over the world. Only in Russia there are about 10 factories for the production of building materials... Knauf is associated by many with high quality, reliability and practicality. About 10% of the market is accounted for by other European brands - Lafarge, Gyproc, Rigips.

Gyproc Is a Scandinavian brand that has successfully established itself as one of the leaders in the global plasterboard market. In 2002, it took the first place in terms of production volumes, leaving all the main competitors far behind. Distinctive feature GKL of this brand is high environmental safety, confirmed by the certificates "Leaf of Life", "Ecomaterial". In addition, Gyproc has released drywall that is 20% lighter than other manufacturers' products. However, the price for it is slightly higher than the cost of Knauf products.

Lafarge Is a Polish manufacturer that has established the production of drywall all over the world. Even Knauf is inferior to this concern in terms of the number of production workshops. This allows you to reduce the cost of production, which is why Lafarge drywall has a fairly affordable price. It was this company at the beginning of our century that made a real revolution in the manufacture of drywall, bringing to the market semicircular sheets, all sides of which are pasted over with cardboard. Such processing of panels has become a kind of visiting card of the company.

About 20% of the market belongs to domestic companies. Of the leading Russian manufacturers the following can be distinguished:

• "Gips" (Volgograd)- produces drywall under the well-known brand "Volma". The products of this brand are distinguished by excellent performance characteristics and a reasonable price.
• Gifas (Sverdlovsk)- manufactures products of exceptionally high quality, which, in terms of their operational parameters, are not inferior even to popular European brands.

• Abdullingips (Kazan)- established the production of conventional GKL and GKLV, it is distinguished by a low price relative to other Russian analogues.
• Golden Group Gips (Togliatti)- produces drywall sheets on the equipment of the French concern Lafarge. The products are of exceptional quality and favorable prices.