Many owners land plots When choosing a suitable building material for the construction of a residential building, they come to the conclusion that it is more profitable to build a house from a bar with your own hands. A residential building made of wood is considered the most environmentally friendly, and today this material is increasingly used for the construction of residential buildings. Ready offers construction companies are not available to everyone due to their high cost. However, having studied the features of the construction of such buildings, you can gradually begin to build a house from a bar on your own.

List of advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of a house from a bar:

1. Environmental friendliness. The timber as a material for building a house is the most environmentally friendly of all existing ones.
2. Comfortable temperature and humidity in the rooms.
3. Good sound insulation.
4. Saving money due to the fact that there is no need to build a deep foundation, and all construction work can be done independently.
5. The ability to quickly build a residential building.
6. Attractive appearance.

List of disadvantages of timber structures:

1. Risk of cracking of the building material.
2. When using undried wood, the process of shrinkage at home is carried out for a longer period.
3. Wood can serve as a medium for fungal growth.
4. This building material is susceptible to decay.
5. Glued laminated timber is not breathable.
6. Wood is a combustible building material.

How to calculate the size of a residential building

Before undertaking to build a house from a bar, it is necessary to start drawing up a general plan and drawings of the future structure. You can design a visual layout either independently or order this service from representatives of special organizations. You can also pick up a ready-made drawing from any open source.

The first stage of design, before building the house itself from a bar, is to determine the size of the future building. The dimensions of the building should be calculated based on the available space and the needs of the residents. If the free area for construction is small, but it is necessary to put a high-quality house from a bar on it for the residence of several people, you can consider the option of a small-sized residential building. If you carefully think over and organize the useful space, even in a small house everyone will be comfortable.

When we build a residential building from a bar, additional space can be created by equipping a terrace or attic.

The average size of a residential building made of this building material is 5 × 4 m, of course, if the territory allows. The size of 6 × 8 m is considered universal for residential buildings for summer cottages. Such dimensions make it possible to build a second floor.

Despite the fact that most often the area of ​​the house is calculated in accordance with the number of tenants and the size of the plot, you usually have to focus on the available budget.

How to prepare a project yourself

Before making the drawings of a construction project and using them to build a residential building correctly, you need to determine the following characteristics of the site:

• relief;
• soil type;
• groundwater level.

Only after determining these parameters can you start drawing up a diagram.

The fact is that all these factors have a direct impact on the characteristics of the future structure, in particular, the type of foundation being built depends on them.

If it is not planned to build basement, a good option would be to build a columnar foundation - it is suitable even for heaving soil... Since every house project involves the construction of a building of a certain size, the amount of building materials used must be calculated in advance. In order to visualize the future construction on the site, to determine the area of ​​the adjacent territory and the placement of the house relative to its boundaries, the plan of the house should be correlated with the cadastral plan of the site.

Errors when creating a project

If you are using step by step guide and designing a house yourself, without experience, the following mistakes should be avoided:

1. Lack of rationality when drawing up internal planning.
2. Unsuccessful and inconvenient arrangement of windows and door openings.
3. Inaccurately calculated characteristics of the operational and technical plan.

Calculation of the required materials

The estimate must be drawn up in advance. This will allow you to buy as much building material as is required to build a house, and not buy it again additionally. Or vice versa - after assembling a house from a bar, sometimes you have to sell surplus material. To avoid such difficulties, the amount of raw materials required should be calculated in advance. The first step is to calculate the building materials that are needed to build a house from a bar, namely, for the construction of walls.

The height of the ceilings is taken into account together with the thickness of the floors and flooring... When calculating the walls from the inner and outer sides, the thickness of the timber section is taken into account. Next, the total amount of timber is calculated. To do this, the height of the wall of a wooden house must be divided by the height of one unit of building material. The result will be the number of rows of beams required to construct each wall. When calculating the total length of the timber, the length of the walls is taken into account. The resulting number of timber planks are summed up.

Construction technology of wooden houses

You can build a log house by phased assembly ready-made kit purchased at a manufacturing facility. A step-by-step installation plan is attached to such kits. Each timber is fixed in a specific place with ties - galvanized metal studs.

It is important to know how to properly build a house from a bar and in what sequence to perform operations. The phased construction of a residential structure is as follows:

1. Laying the foundation.
2. Rechecking geometric calculations.
3. Laying waterproofing.
4. Installation of the lower level - laying the first row.
5. Cross-shaped fastening of wood in a longitudinal intersection.
6. Assembling the rest of the lumber boards with the laying of insulation material between them.
7. Installation of floors between floors.
8. Installation of ceilings in the form of beams.
9. Installation of the rafter system, taking into account the 2% shrinkage of the laminated veneer lumber.
10. Laying of roofing material.
11. Warming of floors.
12. Wall insulation.
13. Installation of partitions.
14. Carrying out engineering communications.
15. Plank flooring on the terrace.
16. Installation of windows.
17. Door installation.

All about the types of foundations

Foundation under private house can be one of the existing varieties:

• columnar structure;
• tape type;
• plate manufacturing technology.

A columnar foundation for the construction of houses is considered the least difficult to install, it can be built quickly. The disadvantage of this design is the separate placement of the pillars. When erecting pile foundation, in contrast to the columnar, the connection of the piles with the help of a reinforced concrete slab is provided. The tape-type foundation is represented by several subspecies of structures, each of which has a different functionality. The foundation, which has the same cross-section, is intended for the construction of large residential buildings. If the log house is small and light, such that one can build it, you can use a shallow foundation - more budgetary in cost, but no less reliable. A reinforced concrete slab is laid as a slab foundation. It is possible to make this basis for building a house from a bar from a large amount of concrete and reinforcement.

Wall erection stage

In order to assemble the walls, you need to prepare all the building materials at the construction site. In the corners, timber planks can be connected both with and without a ledge.

Connecting the first crown and fixing the board to the foundation. To connect the initial crown of a private house, the timber is cut along and across with a circular saw. The first crown is laid on the lining of the boards. To distribute the load on the foundation more evenly, floor beams should be placed on the wood underlays. Lining boards and building beams are recommended to be treated with an antiseptic.

How to lay the second and subsequent crowns. Corner connection of timber planks is carried out with root spikes. If the timber is shorter than the length of the wall, it must be spliced. The second crown is placed on the first, observing the angular joints and, if necessary, splicing the length of the boards.

How to connect timber planks and use a dowel. Before starting to connect the crowns on the blocks of a house under construction from simple bar, it is necessary to make markings for the installation of dowels. Square pins are considered the most reliable type of connection that does not prevent shrinkage.

In what ways can the timber be lengthened. You can lengthen the timber in the following ways:

• docking;
• the use of root spikes;
• in half a tree;
• dovetail technique.

How to caulk a log house when shrinking. While the shrinkage process is taking place, the following materials can be used for caulking a residential building:

• jute matter;
• tow;
• flax

How to properly lay the floor

Insulation material, which also serves as sound insulation, is placed between two layers of the floor structure. The sub-floor is created using edged boards.

How to insulate walls and floors

The material for the insulation of walls and floors can be:

• sawdust;
• mineral wool;
• penofol;
• Styrofoam.

If a bar with a section of 150x150 mm was used during the construction of the house, additional insulation the floor can be omitted.

Roofing works

The roof frame must consist of the following elements:

• a gable made of timber planks, which serves as the end part of the structure;
• rafters - the main part of the roofing structure;
• Mauerlat bar support;
• brace;
• rack.

What is the interior decoration and how to build a staircase correctly

The list of installation works for interior finishing includes flooring and wall finishing. To build an interfloor from scratch yourself wooden stairs, the following installation work will be required:

1. Mounting of kosour.
2. Cut openings to accommodate steps.
3. Installing the bowstring.
4. Fastening the risers.
5. Mounting steps.
6. Installation of handrails.

Despite the presence of disadvantages, many people prefer to build a residential building from a bar. However, even professional builders before making a house, they draw up a visual plan of its construction, and when implementing this plan, it is imperative to observe step by step instructions for installation work. You can find it in specialized construction manuals.

If you thoughtfully approach the study of theory, you will learn how to build a durable house from a bar with your own hands.

The main advantages of this construction equipment considered relatively low cost, the ability to independently carry out all stages of construction, as well as the fact that the construction can be completed in a short time.

One of the most interesting, popular and widely used materials for the construction of private houses and cottages is timber. The construction of a residential building from a bar requires much more modest financial investments and time costs than building a house from more familiar materials. Moreover, in the case of a timber, you can perform all construction activities with your own hands.

Before starting any work, you need to draw up a plan for your future home. If you do not have design skills, entrust this work to some third-party organization, or select suitable drawings from open sources.

Before proceeding with the design, you need to establish the optimal dimensions of the future structure. When choosing the optimal dimensions, be guided, first of all, by the available space, as well as by your personal needs.

If you have a small family and a little free space, you can give preference to a small log house with dimensions of 3x4 m. Provided that it is properly arranged, even such a small building will have enough useful space. The lack of space can be compensated for by a terrace or an attic room.

If there are no special problems with the place, but you still don't want to build a huge building, build a house with dimensions of 5x4 m.

The standard dimensions of summer and country log houses are indicators at the level of 6x6 m, 6x8 m, etc. Such a house can already be made two-story without any fear.

For the rest, be guided by the conditions of your specific situation. The larger your family, the more area the house should have. In most cases, everything is limited exclusively by the size of the site and the available budget.

Buy a beam, the cross-section of which is as close as possible to the size of the future house. The thicker the timber, the less money you will have to spend on thermal insulation material and sound insulation.

Usually, 200x200 mm timber is used for the construction of load-bearing walls. For the construction of a small house in a region with a mild climate, you can use material with a section of 150x150 mm or even 100x100 mm.

In the process of assembling the walls between the rows, it is imperative to lay a seal made of flax or jute. Such a seal allows you to get rid of all the cracks and additionally insulate the walls.

Before starting construction work, be sure to study the properties of the soil on your site. It is quite difficult to cope with such work on your own - it is better to immediately contact a specialist. Additionally, you need to find out the level of passage of groundwater.

Select the length of the timber in accordance with the size of the house. The standard length of the elements is 600 cm. If the walls of your future home will be long, try to find a company that can make a bar according to your size. This will require additional financial investments, however, a solid timber surpasses prefabricated elements in all respects.

The cant needs a must finishing water-repellent composition. Without such impregnation, the material will very soon begin to mold and rot, and as a result, it will completely collapse.

If you need insulation finished house insulating materials are best placed from the inside. Mineral wool heat insulators with the obligatory laying of a waterproofing material between the thermal insulation and the walls are excellent for insulation.

It is better not to do the outer cladding of a log house if possible - such a finish will hide all the aesthetic beauty of the building material.

Pre-calculate the right amount materials in order to avoid problems with the sale of extra timber or the purchase of missing elements in the future.

First step. Determine the height of the house and calculate the perimeter of the walls of the building. Take the height of the ceilings taking into account the thickness of the floors and the floor. Calculate the area of ​​internal and external walls taking into account the thickness of the section of the bar.

Second step. Calculate the total number of bars. To do this, you need to divide the height of the house wall by the height of one element. This will tell you how many beams are needed to build each wall. Calculate the length based on the length of the walls. Add up the number of beams required to build all the walls of the house.

Step three. Add to the calculated value 5-15% of the margin for scrap or unexpected damage during construction.

Initially, the walls of your house will have a height slightly higher than the design value. Such an increase will occur due to the use of an insulating gasket between the crowns. Over time, the wood will shrink, and the height of the walls will be restored to design.

Home Construction Guide

Purchase the required quantity finished timber and start building. Start by preparing the site and arranging the foundation.

Foundation

First step. Remove from construction site debris and all interfering objects. Mark the area with pegs driven into the ground and a rope stretched between them.

Second step. Dig a trench for your foundation. Timber houses are traditionally built on strip foundations up to 80-100 cm deep. Select the specific depth taking into account the conditions of your specific situation.

Step three. Fill the bottom of the trench with a layer of sand and gravel. Tamp the backfill thoroughly. For better compaction, spill backfill with water.

Fourth step. Fasten the formwork to the walls of the trench.

Fifth step. Lay the reinforcement mesh over the backfill.

Sixth step. Fill the trench with concrete. Leave the foundation until fully cured (3-5 weeks).

In warm weather, the foundation will need to be watered for the first few days after pouring so that it does not crack. It is better to leave the formwork until the foundation has completely solidified. If necessary, it can be dismantled earlier, but not less than 10 days after the last moistening of the base.

First crown

First step. Coat the frozen foundation with molten bitumen and lay a layer of roofing material on it for waterproofing.

Second step. Start laying the first crown. Pre-saturate all wooden elements with an antiseptic. Traditionally, the first row of beams is laid using the "half-tree" method. To make such a connection, you need to saw off the lower part of one beam, and the upper part of the other.

Step three. Lay out the bottom crown. Adjust the bars as carefully as possible.

At the same stage, prepare wooden pins. With the help of these elements, you will connect the rows of the timber. It is advisable to make the pins from wood of the same species that was used for the manufacture of the main building elements. Punch holes for the pins in advance. Optimal step between fasteners - 1.2-1.5 m.

Form the first row of walls and proceed to further work.

Walls

Continue to line the walls in straight, horizontal rows. Cut straight into the lower crown using the dovetail method. Place the floor beams in increments of no more than 40 cm, otherwise the floor will bend.

The walls are laid out according to an extremely simple principle: you put the beams, connect them to each other in the corners using the “root spike” method, connect the upper row with the lower row with the help of dowels. Drive the dowels into about a third of the depth of the lower row of timber, i.e. with the help of one nail, 2-3 rows can be connected at once. Be sure to lay insulation between the rows. You can use jute or moss.

Check each row building level... Use a sledgehammer to line the rows.

Lay out the walls of the house of the desired height in the same way. All rows laid above the lower crown are arranged according to the same principle.

The two upper rims do not need to be fastened. You will remove them before you start installing the roof and install the ceiling joists.

Start arranging the roof. If you plan to make a residential attic space, for ceiling beams use a beam with dimensions of 15x20 cm.Fix the beams themselves in increments of the order of 1-1.1 m.

Start erecting the frame of the roofing structure. The frame includes the following elements:

Install the Mauerlat, rafters and other listed items. Attach the sheathing boards to the rafters. For lathing, use boards about 150 mm wide and 15-20 mm thick. The greatest reliability is characterized by a solid crate. For the rest, be guided by the peculiarities of your situation, taking into account the angle of inclination of the slope, the type and weight of the finish coating, etc.

At the end, it remains to lay the finish roof covering with a preliminary device of steam, heat and moisture insulating layers.

After that, if necessary, you can insulate the house and complete the finishing work. Laying of communications, installation of doors and window structures, lighting, furnishings and other moments - all this is at your discretion.

In the case of a kiln-dried bar, you can start finishing almost immediately after completion. construction works... If you use a different material, you will have to wait until the wood shrinks. This takes at least 6 months.

A log house built in accordance with all building codes and recommendations will serve you well for many decades. Follow the instructions, and very soon you will be able to enjoy comfortable living in a reliable home, built with your own hands.

Happy work!

Video - Do-it-yourself timber house

I wanted to build a house. Immediately faced with the problem of choosing a material. There was not much money, but I wanted a house that was reliable, warm and durable. Having studied the offers of the modern construction market, I decided to focus on

On the forums it is advised to build houses with a section of 15x15 cm. But I had to build myself, sometimes with a friend, i.e. I didn't want to involve outside workers, so I decided not to use a heavy 15-centimeter beam. Instead, I bought dry material with a section of 15x10 cm. Then, when the wood shrinks, I will insulate the walls outside with mineral wool, and the house will be warm.

To further save on construction costs, I decided to use only local materials. You can take my story as an example of leadership and navigate the situation.

Pouring the foundation

First, I cleared the area for the house from debris, bushes and other interfering things. After that, he began to arrange the foundation.

I had to think for a long time what type of base would be suitable specifically for my area. He studied the geological conditions, learned the composition of the soil and the level of occurrence of groundwater. In this I was helped by a specialized reference literature... Additionally, I asked the neighbors what foundations their houses are on.

I live in the Ryazan region. Local conditions make it possible to save on the arrangement of foundations, so most of the neighbors have houses on light supports made of limestone and concrete. Most often, they even refuse reinforcement - such is our wonderful soil. The soil is sandy, therefore, it is not "heaving". The water goes deep and wooden houses weigh a little. Therefore, there is no need for the arrangement of buried monolithic supports in my region.

I started to do it by digging a trench. First, I removed the fertile ball. Sand appeared. For a better seal, I spilled it with water. Then he laid out the trenches with stone and laid two reinforcing bars each. Bandaged them in the corners. I think the tape is best reinforced at both the bottom and top. And so he did.

To save yourself from unnecessary work, it would be possible to order ready-made construction concrete with delivery. However, in my region it turned out to be unrealistic - there are simply no such proposals. And I have such a plot that the truck would have to drive through the garden, but I don't need this.

Alas, it will not be possible to save money in this way in every region. For example, if I lived somewhere in the suburbs, I would have to do the formwork, install a spatial reinforcing frame, and only then pour the building mixture.

While the concrete is gaining strength (and this takes 3-4 weeks), I will prepare consumables.

Timber prices

Find out more detailed nuances, from our new article on our portal.

Preparatory activities

Harvesting of dowels

The connection of the rims of the bar is performed using wooden dowels... I decided to make them from scraps of boards left over from other construction activities. In my case, it was the arrangement of the roof sheathing.

For dowels, use as hard wood as possible. The process of making fasteners itself is extremely simple. I took the board scraps and mirrored them on one side with an appropriate saw.

Then I put an emphasis on and began to cut to size. In my situation, the size was 12 cm. As a result, I got neat and beautiful blanks.

Sawed the planks with a band saw. On the way out, I got a whole box of wooden sticks. Next, I sharpened the blanks with an ax on each side and got my pins.

Moss preparation

Nagels, peat moss sphagnum and boards

The technology requires that between each crown of the timber be laid. Professionals usually insulate roll materials... It is easy and convenient to work with them - just roll the material over the laid crown and you can continue working. However, convenience and ease of handling comes at a price.

I decided not to spend money and use moss. Firstly, nature is full of this material - go and collect. Secondly, moss is not only a decent insulation, but also an excellent antiseptic. In addition, I worked on thematic forums: moss is actively used as a mezhventsovy heater, and there are no negative responses about it.

For insulation, red or peat moss is best suited. The first is characterized by high rigidity. The second, after drying, becomes brittle. Whenever possible, it is best to use red moss. It is easy to recognize it - these are long stems with leaves resembling a herringbone.

Making jambs

I make them for every door and window opening. For this I use flat bar... If possible, there should be no knots at all. For added convenience, I made a makeshift workbench right next to my lumber stack. Made rip cuts. It helped me in this Circular Saw... I removed the excess material with a chisel.

Even not every professional carpenter can make the right joint. Therefore, I decided to make jambs for windows using a simplified technology. In each window opening, I will install only a couple of vertical jambs. The window block will be directly responsible for the horizontal connection.

To install the block, you need a "quarter". However, here, too, I figured out how to simplify the task. Instead of a sample (in the photo it is shaded), I decided to glue in a bar. For this, the plane was sharpened in advance. The result was no worse than it would have been in a situation using a quarter.

It is impossible to reduce the number of jambs in the doorway - all four are needed. However, the shape of the products can be greatly simplified.

I chose in the bar, which in the future will be a threshold, grooves similar to the grooves in the side jambs. This allowed me to slide the bottom block over the spikes of the opening. However, at this stage, the timber would have to be cut with a chisel across the wood fibers - not the most pleasant and simple occupation. I found a great way out of this situation! Taking a circular saw, I prepared the cuts, having previously set a suitable blade exit and made a parallel stop.

Then I took a feather drill and made a 2.5 cm hole for the dowels. Finally, I sawed out an even rectangle across the wood fibers. The reciprocating saw helped me with this.

Carpenters usually make two rectangular nests in the doorstep, and from the bottom of each vertical jamb they form a counter ledge, cutting down and sawing out excess wood with a chisel. I decided to make the holes, as for the mounting pins, and hammered in a couple of fasteners. I made similar holes at the bottom of the jambs.

I haven't touched the upper horizontal bar yet, but I nailed a small board to the threshold - it will take over the functions of a “quarter”. The design of the opening turned out to be extremely simple, but this does not interfere with coping with its main function. In the future, I will trim the opening and glue the "quarters".

Required tools

For building a house from wooden beam I used the following tools and fixtures:

• shockless electric drill;
• circular saw;
• roulette;
• sledgehammer;
• electric planer;
• square;
• reciprocating saw;
• plumb line;
• hammer;
• water hose;
• axe.

I bought a circular saw to cut a wooden beam. I had to cut in two steps. First, I drew a line in a square, after which I cut, turned the beam over and again made a cut. It is best to transfer the line to the second edge of the timber using a square too. If you are confident in your "eye", you can saw "by eye".

Using a circular saw, I made spikes and grooves for the corner joints of the bars. When arranging the thorns, I lacked an insignificant cutting depth, so I had to make a couple of unnecessary movements with a hacksaw.

Building a house

Rules for laying the lower crown

Laying the starter ring is traditionally done with a joint known as “in the floor of the tree”. This knot is done without any problems with a circular saw - it is enough to cut the material up and down. In some areas, the cutting depth turned out to be insufficient - here I worked with a hacksaw, after which I got rid of excess material with a chisel. By the way, in my case, the lower crown is the only one that is connected with nails.

I put the lower crown on the lining of the boards. There are gaps between the elements - in the future I will make airflows there. In my region, they are usually in the wall, not in concrete base... This option has its advantages. Firstly, making air vents in the wall is easier and faster. Secondly, at a certain elevation, the wind moves at a higher speed than directly near the ground, due to which the underground will be better ventilated.

Timber felling. Half-tree connection

I am going to mount the floor joists on the pads - as I think, the loads on the base will be distributed more evenly.

Covered the lining and bar of the lower rim. As practice shows, the fastest rotting material is laid at the very bottom. In my situation, the pads are at the bottom, and not the beam itself. In the future, if the boards rot, they can be replaced with much less effort than the bar of the lower crown.

Reciprocating saw prices

reciprocating saw

Features of laying the second and subsequent crowns

Starting from the second crown of the masonry, the work is carried out in the same order. In the corners, I connected the timber using root spikes - the usual adjoining of elements is unacceptable here.

Taking a circular saw, I stitched a couple of cuts. I transferred the cutting line to the second edge with the help of a square. The root spike is easy to make; everything is shown in the photo. If there is insufficient disc exit, the depth can be adjusted with a hacksaw. The groove is made even easier. Also shown in the photo.

Important note! Note that the tongue-and-groove connections must have approximately 0.5 cm clearance for the seal to be placed. A joint in which the wood simply touches the wood is unacceptable.

Previously, I set the required cutting depth. With my saw, you can change the blade exit without any problems - just loosen the lever. The add-on is easy to use. If in the traditional carpentry production the master sets some parameter of the working tool and prepares the required number of blanks of the same type, then in the carpentry business the situation is somewhat different: the material is dragged onto the workbench, and the cutting depth is adjusted directly in the course of work.

My saw is equipped with a thin blade - much less effort is required to cut. The safety guard moves very smoothly and does not interfere with the cut.

The walls of my house will be longer than the timber, so I will have to splice the building material. To do this, I made a cut from both ends of a long bar, removed the excess with a chisel and got a spike in the middle. The protrusion is ready, now you need a groove. Chopping wood with a chisel across the fibers is impractical. I went for the trick and drilled a simple through hole in the second block. The drill was not long enough to create a through hole, so I had to drill from both sides. Next, I cut off excess wood from the workpiece, made the markings and cut the timber along the grain using a chisel. Connected spliced ​​beams. Gaps filled with moss.

Helpful advice. In the crown, which is the beginning of the opening, it is better to immediately make spikes for the jambs of this opening. In the process of cutting a bar, it will not be possible to completely make the thorns with a saw, it will be necessary to additionally add a chisel to the end of the process. On next photo you see the bars already with fastening spikes. Thresholds for door openings are shown as templates.

I laid the second crown on the lower one, correctly completing the corner joints and the necessary lengthwise splices. It's time to make the markings for the installation of the dowels - the connectors for the crowns of my house under construction. I took a square and put vertical marks on the bars at the bottom and top, in the places where the fasteners will be placed. Turned over the top bar. Moved the markings to the center of my bar. Then I drilled the holes for the fasteners and drove the pins into them with a hammer.

What you need to know about pins?

Logically in round hole it would be necessary to drive in a round dowel. Builders, however, adhere to a different technology and use square-section pins. Such fasteners are simpler to manufacture, and the connection is held much more reliably. In this case, the short dowel will not interfere with the shrinkage process of the structure.

The problem is that to drill hand drill a strictly vertical hole is impossible without the slightest deviation. When installing a bar of the next crown on a pointed and slightly protruding nail, the first one will stagger a little. In order for the timber to be firmly entrenched, it must be additionally besieged with a sledgehammer.

The pins I use work for shear and ensure correct shrinkage even with slight deviations from the vertical in the mounting holes. There will be no gaps. First, the timber will shrink. Secondly, the space between the crowns is filled with insulation, which I will discuss later.

Once I had to observe how builders made holes in a wall from a bar using a long drill and drove round long pins into them, outwardly similar to shovel cuttings or a rake. Were such holes vertical? Naturally not. Ultimately, the timber did not settle, but seemed to "hang" on the dowels, which led to the formation of impressive gaps between the crowns.

Driving in the dowels, I laid tow and moss on the crown. He laid the tow across the beams. The moss just threw on the tow. As a result, the tow hangs from the walls. This will make it easier for me to caulk the walls in the future. Moss will provide a decent insulation of the building.

I installed the bars on the dowels, laid the tow, threw in moss, laid sledgehammer to the crown, but for some reason it still staggers. This is due to the presence of gaps in the corner joints. In my situation, the dimensions of these gaps were up to 0.5 cm. I filled them tightly with moss. A spatula and a narrow strip of metal helped me with this.

An attentive reader will ask: what about tow? Shouldn't you put it in the corners too? There is no need. First, as I said earlier, moss is a very good natural antiseptic. My house will stand long enough without any finishing, and sedimentary moisture will now and then flow down the corners. Moss will prevent wood from rotting in these places. Secondly, in the future, the timber in the corners will probably have to be planed. Moss will not interfere with this. Oakum, on the other hand, can break the plane.

Tow prices

Now my corners are strong, insulated and windproof. At the end of the day, I covered the corner joints to protect them from possible precipitation.

In the picture you can see that one of my beams is located higher than the other. But they must be at the same height. We are not in a hurry to turn on the electric plane right away - it is quite possible to cope with such a problem with the help of a simple sledgehammer.

I worked with a plane at the very end, when the obstacle to the installation of the next crown became clearly visible. With a plane, I compared small "screws" and "humps". He compensated for more significant differences in height with tow and moss - it takes much less time to equip them than to process wood with a plane.

What does it cost us to build a house!

You have already familiarized yourself with the basic principles of laying each crown. There is important nuances... First, the crowns must be laid with alternating corner joints. Secondly, the inner load-bearing wall of the house must be connected to the longitudinal wall. This is done through one crown. For binding, I use an already tested and familiar connection. Only here I drill the holes for the dowels "checkerboard" in relation to the lower rims. After that, I put tow and moss, and placing each bar in the place intended for it, I seal the joints in the corners.

That is, the procedure for building a house is extremely simple:

• I am laying another crown;
• I make markings for the dowels;
• I drill holes;
• I drive in wooden fasteners;
• I put tow, I throw moss on it;
• I repeat the sequence.

Along the length of the beams, butted by the "wandering" method.

Having reached the height of the windowsill (this is the seventh crown for me), I made the markings for the arrangement window openings... The width of each opening was calculated by adding the dimensions of the jambs and the gaps to be sealed to the width of the purchased window block. On each side of the opening there should be a pair of gaps - between the jamb and the installed window block and also between the jamb and the wall of the house. As a result, in my situation, the required width of the window opening was 1325 mm. Of these, 155 mm were spent on the gaps.

Based on the results of the calculation, I installed a wreath with a window opening, having previously cut thorns in the bars, similar to the stage with openings for doors.

The next crowns with a window opening were laid from beams without thorns, observing the same overall dimensions.

I equipped all window openings from "short ones", the evenness of which was disturbed during the shrinkage of the timber - such material will not work for walls, but it is a pity to throw it away. I did not make jumpers. While arranging the opening, I constantly checked its evenness using a plumb line. I also checked the walls.

I temporarily fastened a separate partition with rails so that during work it would not fall. The T-shaped structure, as well as the corner, do not need additional reinforcement - they are perfectly supported by their own weight.

Important note! In places where spikes of the opening and cutting line are arranged, i.e. just a few centimeters from the edge, I didn’t put the tow because when sawing, it would be wound on cutting disc... In the future, the tow is knocked out from the ends without any problems.

After laying the last crown with a window opening (it needs to be temporarily laid without fastening and sealing), I removed the upper beams and made cuts for the thorns. I put on jambs on them. Having set the saw blade to the required depth, set the parallel stop to maintain the required distance from the edge. It didn’t take me much time for such work. I did not succeed in cutting the timber to the required depth with a circular - I had to finish it with a hacksaw.

In the lower rim of the opening, I made spikes to control my assembly. I did not do this in the last crown - in the future, thorns will still have to be created in each bar.

From personal experience, I was convinced that assembling the entire height of the opening for a window without a connection, while not quite "short ones", is not an easy task.

Light and short trims can be tried on before shaping a groove or thorn. It may well turn out that a bar with a deviation to the right will lie on the beam deviating to the left. As a result, an even wall will be built. If both beams have a deviation in the same direction, you can not count on the evenness of the wall.

To eliminate deviations, you can shave off the "screws" with a planer, or lay the timber "ladder". I had exactly the second case. I also eliminated the gap with a planer. At each stage, he checked the verticality of the openings being erected using a plumb line.

Installing jambs and shutting down

I laid the upper crown. It's time to mount the jambs of each opening. Thanks to these simple elements the strength of the finished structure will be significantly increased. The lower bar of each opening is equipped with a full-fledged spike. On the upper beams, there are cuts in the required places. I apply the guide, set the desired depth of cut, and make the cut with the circular saw. After that, I draw a couple of lines from the ends according to the size of the thorn and get rid of excess material with a chisel.

My thorns have a smaller width than the grooves. I fill the gaps with insulating material. If you wish, you can make the spikes wider, and only then, at the stage of finishing the house, cut off the excess material and fill the gaps with a sealant.

I inserted temporary spacers between the jambs. In the future, I have planned to add a veranda to my house. If you also plan to make an extension, do not lay the upper crown of the timber before starting its construction. I also mounted a smaller crown.

The box is ready. I covered it with a temporary roof, closed every doorway, and left the house until next season. The timber will just have time to shrink. After that, I will continue, which I will definitely tell you about in my next story.

Instead of a conclusion

While the house is shrinking, I decided to take stock. Firstly, I was glad that much less money had to be spent on the foundation when compared with supports of other types. It took a little money to dump the stone. There is also a lot of sand in my region - you can dig and bring it yourself. Most of the money was spent on cement and fittings.

Secondly, I was pleased with the affordable cost and the relatively low consumption of building material. When the timber was brought to me, I laid it out in a pile of about a meter in height and two meters in width. At first it seemed that I had miscalculated somewhere and that there would not be enough material for me. As a result, about 20 bars were left unused. In general, for the construction of a house with dimensions of 6x10 m (the timber part in it accounts for 6x7.5 m), I spent about 7.5 m3 of timber with a section of 15x10 cm.I would spend 1.5 times more money on a timber 15x15 cm. And additional labor would have to be hired, which is also not free.

Thirdly, I saved on fasteners and insulation. Nageli made himself, the moss is free. Friends gave me the paklyu with pleasure after the end of their construction activities.

Fourth, I didn't have to buy highly specialized and expensive tools. Everything that I used for construction will come in handy on the farm in the future. I am especially pleased to have acquired a good circular saw and concrete mixer.

Now about the speed of work. I did not have much experience in building from a bar. As practice has shown, for a whole day, working in one hand and subject to good weather outside, you can lay out one crown with a partition. You can get it both faster and slower, I will not argue.

And the main advantage of such construction is that you do not need to possess any special skills to carry it out. And I was personally convinced of this.

I hope that my story will be useful to you, and you can, just like me, make your dream of your own home come true.

Video - DIY house from a bar

Construction own home Is a very important step. And if you decide to do this work yourself, then there will be even more questions and doubts. Today we will discuss whether it is possible to build a house from a bar with our own hands, we will highlight each of the stages of construction, we will try to reveal everything possible options... Whether you have enough strength and skills for this difficult task is up to you. Where to begin? What to pay special attention to? You will find short answers to all these questions in this article.

The very first questions that arise long before construction:

Where to build?

Perhaps this question will not be acute for you. Often a suburban area is used for construction, where individual housing construction is allowed; an empty plot or with dilapidated housing was inherited from parents or relatives; government assistance for the third child. There can be a lot of reasons for the appearance of land in ownership. Often, it is with the advent of a land plot that there is a desire to acquire your own spacious home for living or a cozy country house for summer vacation.

What if there is no site? How to choose the right place for construction? Here you should decide on the purpose of your home. Any site is suitable for a summer cottage for temporary stay. The main criteria here are - environment and ecology. When it comes to building a house for permanent residence there are many more factors to consider. You should be attentive to the terrain and soil. This can significantly complicate the construction in terms of the arrangement of the foundation. It is important to pay attention to the location of communications. It is hard to imagine a comfortable life without electricity. Gas allows you to simplify and reduce the cost of heating the house. The water supply problem can be solved with a well. But here again we return to the geological study of soils. Drilling can sometimes be a big costly problem.

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

Construction of houses, outbuildings, terraces and verandas.

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The environmental issue is also important. The most polluted areas are often the cheapest. In such a place, it makes no sense to build environmentally friendly houses from a bar.

What to build?

What purpose are you planning to build a house? We've already mentioned how important it is to determine how your structure will be used: a temporary place to spend time with family and friends, or a cozy nest for permanent residence. It is also necessary to choose the size of the object commensurate with the building site. It may be worth planning the location of other buildings on your site in order to harmoniously arrange a bathhouse, garage, gazebo, garden and other elements of a comfortable stay.

What to build from?

Now there are a lot of materials and technologies for construction. We will not consider the advantages and disadvantages of each of them. We decided to build a house from a bar for ourselves.

After solving these issues, you can directly start construction, although here, too, you will first have to work with your head. There is still a long way to go to direct work with hands.

Preparatory work before the start of construction

Before starting work on the site, you must have a clear project of your facility. It is difficult to imagine the construction of even small buildings without it. How to draw up a project for your home correctly?

• Long before construction, we made a choice in favor of a residential cottage or a country house. Now you need to make a choice of the size of the future house. This may depend on the size of your family, financial capacity.
• Having decided on the size of the house, it is necessary to decide on the choice of technology for building a house from a bar. Some of the materials may not allow the solution of your project.
• Houses made of sawn timber. The material used is an edged bar with 4 or 2 sawn flat edges. The material has natural moisture. The main advantage of this material is its availability and low cost. You can easily find a supplier of such material. Disadvantages: the need to use additional seals between the crowns, low aesthetics (requires external and internal finishing), significant shrinkage of the house, the appearance of cracks.
• Houses made of profiled timber. Sliced ​​timber of a special section. The workpiece is equipped with a tongue and groove for tight fitting without additional seals. Can be made of wood natural moisture or chamber drying.
• Houses made of laminated veneer lumber. The same profiled timber, but made by gluing individual boards using special technology. It is made only from kiln-dried wood.
• ... The wall is a "pie" of two parallel walls made of boards with a cross section of 45 (47) x135 (140) mm with filling the space between them with insulation.

The choice of construction technology is inextricably linked with the search for a reliable supplier necessary material... The Internet and telephone allow you to solve this issue even without visiting the manufacturer's office. You will be able to clarify the price and delivery time, you just have to read the reviews about the supplier.

We chose the size and material

Now you can start the final design of the house. This is where the internet can be useful, too. One has only to write a request "project of a house from a 6 by 6 bar" or "a house from a bar 8 by 8", and you will receive a huge list of projects, often even with a calculated cost. You should not reshape the project for yourself without a good knowledge of wooden architecture. You can also use a typical project from a material supplier (especially for profiled or glued beams). Often, design services can be offered free of charge when ordering a home kit from the manufacturer.

With the finished project, it is necessary to draw up an estimate of materials. Even if you are confident in the availability of the selected project, you should not give up estimate works... It is necessary at least to calculate the supply of building materials so that there are no delays in work, there are no difficulties in their storage. At this stage, you can afford to call suppliers and choose the most the best option for the price and quality. Often negligent developers have to rush to look for some material with a significant overpayment. Almost all suppliers of building materials are familiar with the formulation of the question: "We must have yesterday ..." They use this to earn additional income.

The estimate will also have to include the cost of the foundation of the house. You have a project, you know the approximate entire object, the soil was studied even before the design - the choice of the type of foundation will be a simple matter.

Now we are ready to go to the building site. You can start field work, but before that you need to solve another important issue.

Tools for building a house from a bar

Building a house from a bar does not require a wide range of special tools. But even this insignificant list is not found in every man, especially if it is not related to construction. So what is required:

• Chainsaw or electric saw. You will definitely need a chain saw, for precise work you will also need a circular saw or a miter-trimming machine (for finishing work).
• Tape measure, cord for measuring and marking.
• Level, hydro level, plumb lines, level. The construction of all structures of the house requires constant monitoring of horizontal and vertical alignment. The most expensive of these tools is a level, which is required only for foundation work.
• Hammer, ax, sledgehammer - it's hard to imagine any carpentry without these tools.
• Perforator, drill, screwdriver. It is difficult to imagine modern works without work with fasteners.
• A range of personal protective equipment. These include goggles, respirators, safety elements (a lot of work will be done at height).
• Grinder for cutting metal elements (especially for working with roofing materials).

Arrangement of the foundation

So, it's time to start building. Where does any object begin? Of course, from the construction of the foundation, the reliability of the entire building depends on it. This is not the most difficult, but one of the most important milestones construction of a house from a bar. We will not consider the features of choice different types foundation. We have already made a choice based on the assessment of the soil and the weight of the finished house. We will only talk about the features of the do-it-yourself foundation installation work.

Foundation on screw piles

Widespread due to its versatility and speed of installation. How to install? First, you need to calculate the number of piles and their diameter. Then you need to calculate the location of the piles on the site. Even at the design stage, you should have a drawing of the pile field for your house. According to this plan, the site is marked with laces and pegs.

Now you can start screwing the piles. To facilitate the beginning of screwing, you can dig holes with a depth of no more than 20 cm. The pile is installed in the hole, and with the help of a special rod and assistants, the pile is screwed strictly vertically. The pile sites should be at the same level, this is controlled with a level. You can start installing the grillage. In the case of using a wooden grillage from a bar or metal from a channel, they are simply fixed on the pile sites. For a reinforced concrete grillage, the installation of formwork from boards or plywood and the laying of reinforcement will be required.

Foundation on concrete piles

Factory-made concrete piles can be driven in (heavy special equipment will be required) or bored piles. In the case of bored piles, the pile field is also marked. After that, holes are drilled to the depth of freezing or holes of the required depth are dug. A formwork made of roofing material or boards is installed in the hole. Concrete is poured, and pre-bonded reinforcement is immersed in it. Now you can start installing the grillage. This is done by analogy with a screw pile foundation.

Strip foundation

For houses from a bar, tape is often used shallow foundation, which perfectly distributes the load of the house. For the installation of the strip foundation, a trench is excavated according to the project of the house. The bottom of the trench is covered with sand, which is rammed or spilled with water. Next, formwork is mounted from boards or plywood, and specially bonded reinforcement is laid. The foundation is poured with level control.

Slab foundation

Installation is carried out in the same way. strip foundation... The only difference is that a pit is being dug under the entire area of ​​the house. Sand is poured onto the same area, reinforcement is laid and concrete is poured.

After the concrete has hardened, waterproofing is laid and the Mauerlat or the first crown of the log house is installed.

Walling

It should be noted that after the first crown has been laid, the floor beams can be installed. They can crash into walls (a groove is cut into wall beams) or fastened with metal supports.

The construction of walls is inextricably linked with the chosen technology. We will analyze the work process for each of the construction options.

• Edged timber. Before laying each subsequent crown, the sealing material is laid: jute, flax fiber, tow, moss. After laying the row, it is necessary to drill through two beams with a drill and a serpentine drill. A dowel made of wood will be driven into this hole to give the wall height rigidity. Instead of wooden dowels, special metal elements can be used, but in this case, a marking of their location is left on the timber for the subsequent sawing of openings for windows and doors (houses from edged timber are not made according to the project with ready-made openings).
• Profiled or glued beams. These two technologies have the same workpiece profile, therefore the assembly has identical operations. First of all, it is necessary to lay out the set of timber according to technological map(each bar is marked, and its position is spelled out in the project). The exception is profiled timber, purchased in the form of molded timber. This material is supplied in a length of 6 meters without bowls. In this case, the assembly is carried out by analogy with the edged bar, with the exception of laying the sealing material. Driving of the dowels is carried out according to the technology described above.
• Double bar. Absolutely different technology. Boards are hammered into each other using a sledgehammer and special overlays. The verticality of the wall is ensured by hammering in cross-sections. With the help of the same cuts, a constant gap between the outer and inner walls is controlled. Before you start building a house from a double bar with your own hands, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with all the intricacies of working with this material. A minor violation of technology can lead to disastrous results.

Difficulties in the construction of walls are associated only with the rise of the timber to a great height. 2-3 people are quite capable of assembling a house from a bar of any size.

Roof installation

One of the most difficult stages of building a house is the installation of the truss system. Even experienced builders treat this stage of work with the greatest responsibility. Let's not delve into the complex shapes of the roof. If you decide to install a roof with a cuckoo, hip or complex multi-pitched roof, then you have a lot of your own knowledge. Consider the installation of a gable roof.

After laying the timber top strapping mark up future farms. The truss spacing usually does not exceed 1.5 meters. The first farm is assembled on the spot, the rest can be sawed on the ground according to a template. First, two extreme trusses are installed, on which the ridge beam is laid. The cord is pulled to control the level of the intermediate trusses. The crate is sewn from edged board or OSB. The waterproofing contour is laid, the counter-batten is sewn on. The roofing material can now be laid. The range of roofing materials is very wide, and you can find preparation for each of them on the Internet. The most simple for non experienced builder professional sheet, metal tiles, ondulin and onduvilla.

Finishing

Building a house under a roof is a big victory when building on your own. Now you don't have to worry about the longevity of your log house.

Finishing work should start with the facade. If a planed bar was used, then only its coloring with protective decorative compounds is required. In the case of working with edged beams, they are treated with an antiseptic and the facade is sheathed with finishing materials. For cladding, imitation timber, blockhouse, siding (vinyl or metal), facade panels, fiber cement siding or panels. Working with cladding materials is always the same: installation of lathing from a bar or profile and fastening of cladding material using self-tapping screws or special fasteners - kleimer.

A special place in the decoration is occupied by the installation of windows and doors. Shrinkage of a log house in height requires the installation of additional shrink boxes. The simplest is the installation of rough T-shaped casing boxes. At the ends of the timber in the sawn openings, a groove of 50x50 mm or 50x40 mm is selected using a router. A bar is laid in it, on which the settling bar of the walls will slide. A dry board with a thickness of at least 40 mm and a width equal to the thickness of the wall is attached to this bar. Above and below a board of a similar cross section is placed. A gap of 2 to 10 cm is left above the top board of the box, depending on the material used (dry or natural moisture). You can safely install windows and doors in these boxes in accordance with their standard technology for brick houses.

You can talk a lot and for a long time about the interior decoration of the house and communications. Diversity finishing materials, engineering systems can lead even an experienced builder into the wild. Try to study the question specifically for your finishing option. The Internet and expert advice on the forums will provide you with real help.

Conclusion

We only briefly told you about the stages of building a house from a bar with our own hands. Now it remains to make a decision - are you ready to go this way, or is it better to trust the professionals. Of course, you cannot do all the work yourself. But how much of the work should you take into your own hands? You decide. Remember that poorly executed work can only bring you additional costs, not savings.

One of the most suitable materials for individual construction is timber. Wood is affordable, easy to work with, and in terms of cost, lumber has a more reasonable price than other building materials. Another advantage of wood is its relative lightness, which allows you to reduce the cost of installing a strong foundation under the house.

These and other advantages of wood have led to the fact that wooden private construction is relevant and in demand. And if there is demand, supply appears. Moreover, the natural disadvantages of wood, as a building material, are leveled by complex technologies for the manufacture of modern sawn timber, one of which is.

Advantages of a house made of profiled timber

• can be built quickly. A company (team) of three people, having minimal skills in using carpentry, locksmith tools, is able to assemble a box at home in a season;

• log house is environmentally friendly and has a unique microclimate. In addition, good air flow through the wood will ensure enough level air exchange;

• timber is an excellent heat insulator and allows you to save heat and save on heating;

• you do not need to immediately invest a lot in construction and decoration. These processes can be divided in time;

• a log house has natural beauty, presentability and style.

Stages of building a house from a profiled bar

We will briefly list all the stages of construction, and dwell in detail on the key ones that relate directly to work with a bar.

DIY step-by-step instructions for building a house from a profiled bar:

Stage No.	Name	Content
1.	Design	- typical project houses made of profiled timber; - individual project(unique).
2.	Foundation	- definition of the type (tape, pile, slab); - calculation of characteristics; - excavation; - formwork device; - mounting reinforcement cage; - pouring concrete; - set of strength.
3.	Building a box house	- waterproofing; - the first crown.
4.	Rough floor	- fits during the construction of the walls.
5.	Assembling the box	- subsequent crowns; - interior partitions; - interfloor ceilings.
6.	Installation of the rafter system	- roof truss system; - insulation of the under-roof space; - laying of roofing material.
7.	Installation of individual elements	- installation of columns, supports and other vertical elements; - installation of window and door blocks; - arrangement of stairs to the second floor (attic, attic).
8.	Internal finishing	- connection of communications; - finishing (facing) of the premises.
9.	External wall treatment	- grinding; - treatment with an antiseptic, primer, fire retardant, painting.

Material prepared for the site www.site

Stage 1. Design

It is impossible to build a house from profiled timber without a project. Having a project is a direct guide to action. But first things first.

First of all, you need to decide, or focus on the ready-made (standard, free).

• typical project tied to the area and reflects the wishes of the person who ordered it. But such a project will cost much less. Considering that the standard length of the timber leaves its imprints on the dimensions of the premises, we can say that there are not so many different variations. Therefore, the majority of users acquire, or download from the network, a finished project and make the necessary adjustments to it;

• individual project is developed from scratch, the estimated cost is shown in the table

When developing a new or making adjustments to a finished project, you need to take into account the factors indicated in the table:

№	Factor	Description
1.	Type of residence: permanent or seasonal	Influences the choice of the section of the timber and the need for insulation
2.	Material	Humidity: Natural drying timber (moisture content 15-18%); - (humidity 12-15%) Geometry: Straightforward; - curved. 100x100 - for gazebos, outbuildings, seasonal houses; - 150x150 - for a house of permanent residence with insulation, a bath; - 200x200 - for a permanent residence, luxury houses. Profile configuration: German ("comb") does not require the use of insulation; - Finnish (Scandinavian) makes it possible to use rolled thermal insulation material ..
3.	House area	- the convenience of the location of the rooms; - number of storeys; - place of installation and parameters of the stairs; - the purpose of the rooms; - the number of concurrent residents and their specific needs (for example, pensioners, disabled people); - the possible number of guests.
4.	Location of the house	- remoteness from communications; - remoteness from other objects on the site (reservoir, sewerage); - landscape design of the site; - type of soil, depth of freezing; - location of access roads; - orientation to the side of the light (important if there is a large glazing area). Affects the energy efficiency of the house; - remoteness from the boundaries of the site.

The result of the design stage will be the availability of design documentation approved by the relevant authorities, namely:

List of main documents:

1. Foundation drawing (with a detailed description of the composition, depth of laying, layout by material, etc. As well as detailed data on the soil, groundwater, etc.).
2. Building plan (prepared based on the foundation drawing, but also with a detailed description).
3. Floor-by-floor, detailed plan (partitions, windows, doors, stoves, fireplaces, etc. are indicated in detail).
4. Scattering (this is a detailed drawing of the walls of the house in a section. By scattering, you can make an order for the manufacture of a bar (domokomlpekt at home)).
5. Specification of every detail of the house.
6. Roof drawing, with a detailed description of the rafter system and all layers.
7. The final look of the house.

Calculation of timber at home

At the design stage, the required amount of lumber is calculated. The calculation is based on the spacing specified in the project.

As already noted, the construction of log houses can be carried out using moldings or marked parts from a house kit.

In the table, a comparison of approaches to construction, which is better, house kit or on-site installation (molding)

Factor	Molding	Domokomplekt
Complexity of design	The ability to implement any zayn-project, picking up parts from a bar on site	Kit for complex project more expensive, plus, not every plant will undertake to make
Ability to make adjustments to the project	Easier, cheaper, faster	Impossible, a house kit made of profiled timber is made for a specific project
Construction time	Significant (2-6 months)	Reduced (up to 1-2 months)
Price	From 8 thousand rubles. per sq. m.	From 11 thousand rubles. per sq. m. (depends on the complexity of the project)
Risks	- exposure to external factors during storage; - the risk of damage to the timber when cutting or arranging the bowl; - risk of deformation; - the risk of additional costs (due to errors in calculations and manufacturing).	- the risk of lack of marking (checked when paying for the home kit); - the risk of poorly made bowls due to poorly tuned production equipment.
Abuse	Workers may inflate the price, citing the complexity of the project and the difficulty of cutting the bowls. There is a risk of getting a significant amount of waste.	None.

When building a house with your own hands, it is important to correctly calculate the amount of timber required for work, because shortage and surplus entail additional cash costs.

• The easiest option is to contact the seller (manufacturer). When buying lumber, the seller usually does not charge for the settlement. But, it should be remembered that the distributor is inclined to round off the amount of timber, which at its cost per cubic meter. quite expensive.

• The second in complexity and risk is to use the calculator for calculating the timber for the house and set the parameters for the calculation. This method is quite accurate, although not without its drawbacks. Among them: a defect in the timber, not taking into account the shrinkage of the house, pruning errors.

• The most difficult, but also reliable, is an independent calculation by scattering. For this, a sketch of the house is made, on which dimensions are applied, and the amount of material is calculated manually. So you can calculate the number of units of a bar of the required length. To the number obtained as a result of the calculation, you need to add 5-7% for pruning, low-quality timber.

Note. A good profiled bar has clearly defined parameters and is cut with an accuracy of 1 mm, which allows you to be confident in the accuracy of calculations.

The choice of the section of the profiled bar for building a house is determined according to SNiP II-3-79. The calculation for Moscow in accordance with the standards of the specified document is shown in the table:

Note. When buying a bar for building a house, you need to pay attention to the presence of a cut, which is designed to reduce the likelihood of cracking the bar.

Stage 2. Foundation for a house made of profiled timber

Shrinkage compensation of a log house

Shrinkage of a house made of profiled logs is a natural process caused by the properties of wood. Drying the timber in a natural way or in a chamber allows you to reduce the moisture content of the wood and reduce the percentage of shrinkage. But it cannot be completely ruled out. Shrinkage is 3-5% for chamber-dried profiled beams and 8% for naturally-dried beams.

Given this feature of a profiled bar, construction companies offer two types of construction of houses from a profiled bar:

• for shrinkage... It involves the execution of work in two stages. First, a box is built, and after a downtime for a year and a half, they begin to install a warm circuit (windows, doors), stairs, do interior decoration, etc.;

• Full construction... In this case, the work is performed in one go, and the installation of the elements is carried out in compliance with the requirements for shrinkage compensation.

7 stage. Installation of individual elements

Do-it-yourself construction of a house from a profiled beam is usually performed for shrinkage. But if there is a need to quickly move into the house, then you need to adhere to the following recommendations when installing structural elements and decor, which, unlike walls, shrink to different heights and at different speeds:

Window and doorways.

They are formed by installing the frame in the casing box (casing, casing). Thanks to sliding structure boxes and expansion gap, windows and doors do not deform when the house shrinks.

Note. Not used when installing doors and windows polyurethane foam since it hardens and lacks flexibility. Natural insulation wrapped in a vapor-permeable film is used.

Columns, pillars, posts, supports and other vertical elements.

They are installed on adjusting systems - jacks (shrinkage compensators), which will allow to equalize different shrinkage values.

Roof elements.

The rafter legs are attached to the upper rim using sliding elements.

As for the installation of sliding fasteners at the place of installation of the ridge, opinions were divided here. Some masters advise doing it. Others emphasize the sufficiency of one sliding joint along the top rim.

Ladder.

This element is advised to be installed after shrinking a house from a bar. At least one year after construction, when major shrinkage has occurred. Installation is carried out as follows: the base of the ladder (bowstring or stringer) is attached to the ceiling also using sliding elements.

Stage 8. Interior decoration of the house from profiled timber

Finishing work, such as installing a plasterboard frame, is also recommended after shrinking a house made of profiled beams. However, using sliding fasteners will allow you to get started earlier.

Fulfill plastering work or laying tiles on walls from a bar does not make sense. These materials are difficult to deform during shrinkage, which leads to the appearance of cracks or material shedding.

Stage 9. External wall treatment

Do not forget that a house made of profiled timber needs protection from external factors, for this, after construction, antiseptics are applied to the walls and flame retardants... The frequency of their application is determined by the manufacturer of the product, and is usually 3-5 years.

Good reviews about such materials:

Fire retardant compositions:

• Phenylax. The cost is 650 rubles / 6 kg.
• Cost 440 rubles / 1.1 l.;
• NEOMID 450-1. The cost is 1 339 rubles / 10 liters;
• OZONE-007. Cost 4,990 rubles / 48 kg;
• Senezh OgneBio Prof. The cost is 1,790 rubles / 23 kg.

Antiseptics:

• Aquatex Ground. Cost 2 090 rubles / 10 liters.
• Nortex-Transit (concentrate). Cost 8 123 rubles / 19 kg. This composition is for transportation, i.e. intended only for processing wood during transportation or storage. It is not recommended to cover finished walls, because it does not penetrate the wood structure, providing only surface protection.
• Senezh. The cost is 750 rubles / 10 kg.

Impregnations for wood protection and tinting:

• varnish Krasula. Cost 2,700 rubles / 11 kg;
• Senezh Aquadecor. The cost is 2 680 rubles / 9 kg.

Building a house from a profiled bar - video

The cost of building a house from a profiled bar

The construction of a house from a turnkey bar or with your own hands consists of such factors as:

• material;
• fare;
• consumable material;
• the complexity of the project;
• the size of the house;
• project cost;
• payment for the services of the construction team, if they are involved to perform any work or consultation;
• costs of obtaining permits for the connection of communications, etc.

Conclusion

We hope that this instruction explains in sufficient detail how to build a house from a profiled beam on your own, and the result obtained will delight more than one generation of users.