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Buildings with - a practical and very attractive idea for an individual plot. The cost of arranging a residential attic is less than the cost of building a full-fledged floor; additional square meters will appear in the house. For suburban area the best option is. Projects, photos of successful interiors and recommendations experienced builders- in our material.

Even small attic will transform the facade of the house and make it unique

An attic is a living space under a roof. The roof for arranging a residential attic should have a double slope, such that the height of the attic space is not less than human height at the highest point.

Important! A high ceiling should occupy at least half of the area. Smaller sizes will make a person uncomfortable.

The outer wall of a residential attic consists of two planes: inclined and vertical. The vertical part is built from the main material of the house, the inclined part consists of blood rafters and inner sheathing.

For your information! The attic is considered a residential floor in urban planning standards.

When building a private house, many owners think about the question: to give preference to a full floor or an attic?

Advantages and disadvantages of country houses with an attic: projects with a full floor or a residential attic?

The main argument in favor of the attic floor is always the cheapness of its arrangement. Is it really? The cost savings are due to the use of the roof frame structure. In practice, the larger the roof and, accordingly, the larger the frame area for cladding, the more profitable the attic.

But it should be remembered, no matter how spacious the attic is, it in any case takes up less usable space than the real floor. It turns out that in order to make the attic room suitable for living, it is necessary to provide for such an area of ​​the first floor so that it exceeds the attic at least twice.

In order to create a normal microclimate in the attic room, it is necessary to provide a ventilation system with forced feed air. All of these costs will add an additional burden to the construction. And in fact, the savings will not be that great.

Supporters mansard construction note that houses with such "curly" roofs look attractive. And the designers add that the arrangement of the residential attic has many original solutions.

The zealous owners do not like it when something is wasted. Including the attic space. Some people turn it into a dump of unnecessary things. But in fact, it can accommodate a full-fledged study, workshop, bedroom or even a children's room.

Opponents of such zeal remind that the active exploitation of the space under the roof worsens the condition of the roof structure and significantly complicates its repair.

An expert's point of view

Yaroslava Galaiko

Lead Designer and Head of Ecologica Interiors Studio

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“Psychologists warn that low attic ceilings make a person feel in a confined space, adversely affecting his psyche. Particularly impressionable natures may even feel suffocating attacks due to low ceilings and sloping walls. It is worth considering this fact when planning a nursery in the attic. "

Supporters of a full-fledged second floor give the following comparison:

Attic	Second floor
Limited in planning by inclined structures	Has full layout options
Difficulties with arranging full-fledged windows	No problems with the organization of natural light
The design of the walls and ceiling of the attic does not allow easy repair of the roof	Maintainability of the roof and simplicity of the roof structure
The need to equip a complex roof	Using a simple roof shape
The need for forced ventilation	Using natural ventilation
Strong heating of the room on hot days	Preservation optimal temperature thanks to the attic space

Despite all these disputes and disagreements, projects country houses with an attic and a veranda or garage are very popular. This is not surprising, because frame construction, which is gaining immense popularity, offers many options for just such structures, with a large usable area and various layouts. Consider the photo projects of houses with attics in more detail.

Related article:

The best projects of houses with an attic: photo with drawings

A good residential building design must take into account many factors:

• the climate of the area in which the construction will be carried out;
• features of the soil and landscape of the site;
• a combination of home decoration with the surrounding buildings and terrain;
• organization as much as possible comfortable conditions accommodation for all family members, taking into account their age and individual needs.

The finished project of a house with an attic is developed by professional architects with the participation of narrow specialists. It is important to think over not only the location of the rooms, but also the features of the placement of engineering networks.

Projects of a small area are suitable for a summer cottage, 36 - 40 square meters... This space is enough to accommodate a kitchen and a spacious living room on the ground floor and two compact bedrooms or a study in the attic. Homes with an area of ​​over 60 square meters contain a spacious living room, bedroom and kitchen on the first floor and rooms on the second.

For large houses, it would be ideal to build a terrace that can be accessed from the attic floor. Above will open a magnificent view of nature.

Idea! If the house is intended for year-round use, part of the roof can be glazed and the area can be used for a winter garden.

Country house with an attic: layout 6x6

It's not easy with a minimal area. Project country house 6x6 with an attic - optimal choice... In this case, you have not 36, but at least 50 square meters of usable area.

If the dacha is needed only for a seasonal visit, this space is quite enough for a small family. Over time, an extension can be made to the house if the number of family members increases. What should be considered in the project of a house with a 6x6 attic:

• maximum use of every centimeter of the area;
• the number of people visiting the house at the same time;
• the age of family members;
• the frequency of visiting the suburban area.

When planning a 6 by 6 house with an attic, it is important to use the entire space to the maximum advantage. Traditionally, in the center there is a spacious living room with access to the bathroom and kitchen. All these rooms will completely occupy the first floor. In order not to be cramped, they select compact furniture.

The kitchen should have two entrances: from the room and from the yard. Table setting in summer gazebo it will be much easier, and it will be easier to cook on a hot day by opening the exit to the garden wide open.

In this version, they are located in the attic. Here you can make two full bedrooms for the owners and children.

For a bathroom, four square meters are enough. If the dacha is visited only in the summer, Summer shower can be arranged in the yard. Lovers to take a steam bath put a bathhouse on the site. If you do not provide a shower or bathroom in the house, you can leave three square meters for the toilet. The washing machine is installed in the kitchen.

Frame houses with an attic (projects 6x6) do not provide internal stairs... They are placed outside. This technique can also significantly save space. Compact mezzanines should be provided for storing things in the house.

Here is a rough plan of a house with a 6 by 6 attic:

The specifics of the layout of houses 9 by 9 with an attic: photos of successful solutions

The house with a total area of ​​eighty square meters is a popular project. The builders point out that this project has an optimal balance of costs and living comfort. The classic layout includes a bedroom, kitchen, living room and bathroom on the ground floor and two or three more rooms in the attic. They can be used as additional bedrooms or organize a study, a creative workshop and a spacious wardrobe in them.

Another option for the arrangement of rooms is in the layout of the house 8 by 10 with an attic. Photo example of such a layout:

What you should know about the layout of a 10 by 10 house with an attic: a photo of the best ideas

One hundred square meters on the first floor and seventy more on the second - a large family can permanently live in such a house. There is a place for separate rooms for children, a bedroom for parents, a study, a spacious living room and a kitchen. The house does not look huge from the outside. Projects of a 10x10 house with a foam block attic give the impression of compact placement on the site. But this is just the case when the external impression is deceiving.

There is enough space not only for placing bathrooms on each floor, but even for organizing or bathing right in the house. A convenient staircase with a wide aisle will allow you to easily lift bulky furniture.

In such a house, a separate room for the boiler is usually provided. If the foam block house has ground floor, laundry, heating appliances, pantry for storing inventory and home seams are located here.

Layout example:

Related article:

In the article, we will consider in detail what is the advantage of these structures, types of technologies, average construction prices, original projects, useful tips and much more.

Examples of interior design of houses with an attic inside: photo

Even a small attic can be furnished so that everything you need can fit in it. Inclined planes of ceilings partially hide the total area, but you can use them for stylish design rooms.

Projects small houses with an attic, they usually suggest placing a bedroom on the second floor. In the suburban version, it is logical to use natural wood trim.

If the attic occupies a significant area, the task is simplified. The niches between the rafters can be used as zoning elements. In one - to place a bed, in the other - a desk by the window or a sofa for relaxation. The issue of placing a children's room on the attic floor should be approached especially carefully.

If a study will be located in the attic, it is important to think over the lighting.

Another idea for planning a house with an attic (photo below) is the placement of a wardrobe. Here you can build compact and convenient systems storage.

Tips for building a one-story house with an attic: photos of original ideas

The owners of small country cottages are most often concerned about the arrangement of a residential attic. Before deciding on such a project, ask your friends, the owners of a similar design, to stay. What if you suddenly feel claustrophobic or, on the contrary, impressed by the attic windows through which you can watch the clouds?

Here, if you wish, you can place a wardrobe, a creative workshop, a boiler room, a gym.

Here are the options for organizing the attic space:

It is in particular demand with a garage and an attic. This layout is extremely convenient. Especially this option will be appreciated by residents of the northern regions, who know what it means to warm up a car on a frosty day. When the garage is under the same roof as the house, even if there is no central heating, the temperature will be much higher than outside. And the car itself will be reliably protected from all the vagaries of the weather.

What projects of houses with an attic made of foam blocks look like

Projects of houses with an attic made of foam blocks, the photos of which are presented to you, are very popular among developers of individual housing. The reasons for this demand are that houses made of this material are very functional and look solid and luxurious. The cost of building such a structure is lower than the cost of building a brick house.

The mansard roof makes it possible to significantly increase the total living area, while the investment of funds will be minimal. The most common option is a gable broken structure, which is easy to build on your own.

How to make a mansard roof yourself

Living rooms can be arranged under the attic roof. The shape of the building can be different, but in most cases the attic is set up under a roof with two slopes. The optimal solution, which allows you to obtain a significant area of ​​living space, is a broken structure.

A sloping roof is the best option for arranging an attic

Attic roof drawings and calculations

The first step is to decide on the frame scheme. Rafters can be of a layered or hanging type. Slabs rest on the walls of the building. They are mounted in structures where the distance between the walls is less than 6.5 m. Hanging rafters are placed on filly and Mauerlat. If the width of the spans is large, then the rafter system will need to be reinforced with auxiliary bundles.

The main condition for the comfortable construction of the attic is the level of the ceilings - it must be higher than 2.5 m.To ensure a similar height, the break line should be located at a height of more than 2.8 m, taking into account the thickness of the material layer for insulation and sheathing of the structure. It is also important to consider the thickness of the floor.

An example of a drawing can be seen in the image:

The minimum height of the mansard roof ceilings is 2.5 m

To calculate the expected snow loads, you will need to apply this formula: S = Sg x µ, where S is the snow load, Sg is the weight of the snow cover per 1 m2 of area, µ is a value that depends on the slope of the roof (1.0 - for flat design with an inclination of 25 °, 0.7 - for a design with an inclination of 25-60 °).

Parameters Sg and Wo can be found in the corresponding SNiP, in the section "Rafter systems". If the roof has a steep slope, the snow load can be ignored.

Roof device

The frame structure includes the following details:

• Mauerlat - a support bar that transfers the load from the rafters to the walls of the building;
• racks - supporting parts that support the rafter system in an upright position;
• floor beams - planks that form half of the attic and the ceiling of the lower floor;
• rafters - slats that form the main contour of the roof;
• girders - horizontal support parts for rafters;
• sheathing - slats or plywood sheets, which are intended for laying roofing material;
• filly - strips that are attached along the axis at the bottom of the rafter legs.

The frame consists of a Mauerlat, posts, purlins, floor beams and other elements

The sloping roof differs from the usual construction with two slopes. The difference is that the slopes, which are placed opposite each other, have a special shape: they do not form straight line, but consist of several slopes, which are fastened to one another at an obtuse angle. The design is also symmetrical.

The edge of the rafters is generally set at an angle of about 60 °. The support posts, which support the rafters, form the framing structure of the inner walls. The upper part of the rafters is mounted at a small angle, it can be from 15 to 45 °. This makes it possible to reduce the consumption of materials, while maintaining the functional properties of the roof and resistance to snow loads.

Vertical uprights, which abut against the floor strips, purlins and crossbars that hold them together, form a parallelepiped. The design limits the dimensions of the attic from the inside. To give the product additional rigidity, you should install struts between the floor slats and the lower rafter legs.

If the roof span is more than 8 m, then you will need to install struts

After the installation of the upper elements to fix the truss and eliminate the sagging of the girders, it is necessary to install the suspended support elements - the headstock. For auxiliary fixation of the lower rafter legs, they must be pulled together with the racks using tacks. The parts are fastened with nails and bolts.

Stages of self-construction of the attic

If a decision is made to make such a structure yourself, it is important to provide for the use of such materials in the project:

• roofing material;
• vapor barrier;
• waterproofing;
• insulation material.

The choice of insulation affects such a parameter as the step of the rafters. To reduce the amount of heat insulator, it is best to place the rafters so that the slab or mat fits snugly between them. The type of lathing and its pitch will depend on the choice of material for roofing. You need to pay attention not only to the choice of high-quality material for insulation, but also to create an effective ventilation system.

Ventilation is equipped by preparing technological gaps

The construction of the rafter system must be carried out using fireproof materials. All parts should be treated with fire protection agents. You will need to prepare the following elements:

• wooden blocks section from 100x50 mm;
• slats 50x150 mm;
• unedged boards;
• building level;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• steel wire 4–5 mm in diameter;
• plumb line;
• roulette;
• hacksaw;
• axe;
• hammer;
• sharp knife.

Drafting a project

One of the most important parts of the job is drawing up a project. It is very important to analyze the features of the layout of a private house. It is necessary to determine the dimensions and shape of the structure being erected, as well as provide for the placement of windows and balconies.

On the project, you should designate all structural elements

In the process of drawing up a project, the following requirements must be taken into account:

1. It is important to determine in advance what height the attic should be. It should be remembered that the distance from the floor base to the highest point of the structure must be at least 0.5 m.
2. It is recommended to take into account the heating area and the main elements of the interior.
3. The attic layout must be expanded. If you plan to install windows, then they must be indicated on the drawing.

Drawing up a drawing must begin with the choice of the shape, determining the section of the rafter legs and the step of their placement. To determine the dimensions of the rafters, the following parameters must be taken into account:

• bias;
• roofing material;
• features of the climate in the region of construction.

It is also important to provide for the required number of rafters in the project. They can be of a layered or hanging type.

Rafters can be hanging or layered

At the end, the number of fixing parts should be determined. In the figure below, you can see some of the data required for the calculation, but drawing up a project is a complex process. It is recommended to entrust this work to qualified specialists.

Installing Mauerlat

The device of the attic roof rafter system should be selected based on the type of roof, as well as on the prepared attic project. A simple option is the double slope design.

The main parts of the double slope roof rafter system are:

• linear elements (column, bar system, beam);
• plane details (slab, flooring, panel);
• spatial elements (vault, shell, volumetric detail).

Before performing work, you will need to thoroughly dry the wood. The first step is to mark and install the Mauerlat. It is fixed to the walls of the building. The part can be made from a bar or a powerful lath. If you plan to build a roof with two slopes, then the Mauerlat fits on the long walls of the building. The element is necessary not only for reliable fixation of the lower part of the rafters, but also for the correct division of the load on the walls and the main part of the structure.

To fix the Mauerlat, you should use metal studs that are attached to the beam from monolithic concrete.

To fix the Mauerlat, you need to install metal studs

The beam should be in the upper part of the wall. It is also possible to use steel wire embedded in brickwork.

To fix the Mauerlat to the upper crown of the wood wall, you need to use wooden pins. Auerlat requires high-quality waterproofing of wooden beams. Therefore, it is necessary to use roofing material or other material with a water-repellent property.

Before installing the Mauerlat, the base must be covered with roofing material

The installation of a Mauerlat is required if it is planned to erect a roof frame, the rafters of which rest against the upper part of the wall with beveled ends or prepared cutouts.

If you plan to make an attic, the width of which corresponds to the width of the building, the rafter legs should rest with the lower ends against the taken out supporting parts. As supports, it is possible to use powerful beams laid across long walls. The number of supporting elements corresponds to the number of rafters. The beams must be fixed to the walls in the same way as the Mauerlat.

Sequencing:

Frame construction

The mansard roof frame consists of floor beams, rafters, purlins and uprights

As a material, coniferous bars 200x100 mm are often used. Floor slats are placed on top of the Mauerlat with a 30-50 cm indent behind the wall surface or in prepared grooves in the masonry. In the first case, the parts are fixed with corners and self-tapping screws.

Fixing the timber to the Mauerlat can be done using steel corners

To make an even overlap, the planks should be installed in this sequence:

1. The first step is to fit the extreme details in terms of level.
2. Next, you should pull the cord and install intermediate elements along it.
3. The spacing of the beams should be from 60 to 100 cm. The distance of 60 cm makes it possible to mount insulation boards without notching.
4. To level the beams in height, you can hang them. Another option is to use plank liners.
5. If the beams are inserted into prepared pockets, their extreme parts must be processed liquid waterproofing and wrap with roofing material.

The racks must be set on the extreme strips:

After the installation of racks, crossbars and girders, you can get a reliable structure that will limit the inner rooms of the attic. To increase its strength, in the future it should be secured with struts and tacks.

Installation of rafters

At this stage, the installation of the lower rafters is carried out:

After that, the upper elements are installed:

1. The first step is to mark the central part of the roof. This can be done using a post that was previously attached to the Mauerlat and tightening from the end of the roof. The edge of the board should be in the center of the roof. On this board, you need to align the rafter legs.
2. Next, you need to prepare a template from a 150x25 mm rail. It should be applied to the extreme part of the mounted rail at the required level and to the girder on which the lower rafter legs will rest.
3. Mark the top and bottom cuts and cut out the template. The fixture is applied in turn to both sides of the roof. This will make it possible to check the accuracy of the marking of the central part. If the rows of racks are placed in parallel, then there will be no difficulties in securing the upper elements - they will have identical dimensions.
4. According to the workpiece, you need to prepare the required number of rafters. The parts are placed on the purlins and tied in the upper parts using iron overlays or trim strips. In the latter case, self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. In the run, the rafter strips rest on the saw cuts and are grabbed by the iron corners. In order for the parts to stand straight, they are fastened using struts mounted with the lower part for tightening. This method is used to install all the rafters.
5. Fixation of hanging racks is carried out - pieces of slats 150x25 mm. The upper part of the rail is attached at the place of fixing the rafters, the lower one - to the tightening.

Video: roof truss system of the attic type

Installation of struts and gables

Sequencing:

Construction lathing

Sheathing is needed for:

• distribution and transfer of the weight of the roofing material to the rafters;
• performing additional fastening of the rafter system;
• bases for fixing the roofing material.

The lathing can be made in one or two layers, solid or thinned.

The lathing can be solid or with a discharge

The installation method depends on what material is planned to be used to cover the structure. If a roof is to be erected from slate or metal, the lathing should be made of slats, which are attached to the rafter legs with nails. In this case, the step of installing adjacent strips can be 27-30 cm.

Solid lathing is used in the case of fastening soft material in rolls.

Solid sheathing is required for soft roofing

In this case, you can use moisture-resistant plywood sheets or particle boards... The use of pine is allowed wood material- edged strips.

It is important to take into account the fact that when installing such a crate, the material that will be laid must repeat the contours of the outer base. That's why frame structure must be strong and level.

In the process of laying out the material, a cord should be used with which the slats or plates will lie flat. Parts should be placed parallel to each other. Before fixing, the material must be treated with an antiseptic composition in order to protect it from rotting, the appearance of fungus and dampness. The workpieces must be even and of high quality. It is recommended to give preference to wood of the 1st and 2nd grade. There should be no knots on it. To prevent the boards from warping, they must first be dried.

The sequence of steps for installing the crate:

Mansard roof waterproofing

The material for the roof does not have thermal insulation properties, so you will need to prepare quality material, which will be environmentally friendly for human health. Mineral wool or glass wool is often used. Both materials have excellent sound and heat insulation parameters. It is also important to take into account that if the roof is made of metal, when the insulation gets wet, all its qualities can be reduced to zero. Therefore, it is important to carefully consider the design device.

It will not work to insulate the attic without laying a waterproofing material, so the process should be considered together. Step by step guide for waterproofing structures:

Practice has shown that it is better to protect the insulation with the help of modern materials, for example, Tyvek or Izospan. The use of ordinary polyethylene film gives poor results, as condensation may appear. Experienced craftsmen believe that the structure should not be waterproofed with roofing material.

Before proceeding with the work, you need to decide on thermal insulation material.

Mineral wool is a fairly popular material used for roof insulation.

The following heat insulators are most commonly used:

• glass wool;
• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• foamed glass;
• wood shavings;
• straw.

The choice of material should be based on four parameters.

1. Thermal conductivity index. For roof insulation, 0.05 W / m * K or lower is optimal.
2. Water resistance. The higher the score, the better.
3. Resistant to fire.
4. Environmental Safety.

The insulating qualities of mineral wool deteriorate significantly after some time. Also, the material can be damaged under the influence of mechanical stress. However, mineral wool has a low cost, so the material is used quite often. Polyfoam is not afraid of water and has excellent thermal insulation characteristics. If you plan to build a house only from environmentally friendly materials, then you can use foam glass or straw.

Roof Insulation Step-by-Step Guide:

Laying of roofing material and installation of window openings

As an example, the installation of metal tiles will be considered, since this material is used quite often:

The number of windows is determined by the ratio of the usable glazing area to the base of the floor 1:10. For example, if the area of ​​the attic is 100 m 2, then the glazing should be about 10 m 2. When installing windows, you must take into account such nuances.

In our time, the desire to effectively use the entire area of ​​the house is quite understandable, therefore, many immediately plan to build an attic at the stage of designing a house, or they will re-equip the attic in a certain way, as well as remove the roof, and attach the attic floor with their own hands to the old house.

In fact, the attic is an attic, the design of which is regulated by SNiP norms, which entails not only alterations of the roof, but also changes in the thermal and waterproofing of the upper extension.

In order for the attic to be reliable, warm with your own hands, not to harm the load-bearing walls and foundation of the house, and to serve for a long time, it is necessary to understand the specifics and knowledge of the design features of this type of superstructure. In the article, we will talk about the main types of the attic floor, what materials can be used to make an extension, as well as about the specifics and nuances of the stage-by-stage construction of the attic with our own hands.

Do-it-yourself attic floor above the garage

The main types of attics

Do-it-yourself attic construction begins with the choice of the type of extension, the most suitable design for the main structure, and the production of the project. For the superstructure, one-pitched, gable and sloping roofs are used: four-pitched, domed, etc. The appearance of the attic floor is determined by the materials, structural features of the building and the specifics that are entrusted to the completion.

Depending on the particularity of the main building, standard solutions are usually used in the construction of the attic.

1.Double-sided; 2. Broken gable; 3.Single-level; 4.Multilevel

1. Single level with gable roof- This is an ordinary attic under a gable roof, converted and insulated under the attic. The design and construction of such a room is not difficult, but the main drawback is the small internal usable space with a low ceiling.
2. One-level under a sloping gable roof has four sloping planes, which are located under different angles... The device of an attic floor of this type is somewhat more expensive and more difficult to design, but the result is a large interior space.
3. A single-level attic with the removal of consoles presents some difficulties in design and construction. But spacious inner space and the possibility of installing vertical windows compensates for the difficulties in construction. A feature of the construction of such an attic frame is the displacement and extension of the extension beyond the sides of the house, and the attic roof is identical in appearance to a lean-to.
4. Multilevel extension with mixed roof support. it complex construction attic, which requires professional calculations and design of not only the room itself, but also the stairs to the attic. As a rule, such attic floors, with multi-level rooms, are planned together with the construction of the main house, as a one-piece structure.

Materials (edit)

The house is built on a foundation that is specially designed for the weight of the structure. If the attic floor is planned initially, the load is calculated and laid down at the attic design stage, therefore the attic floor can be built from any materials: a monolithic attic made of concrete, brick, foam concrete, metal structures, from rounded logs. But if the superstructure of the attic floor is carried out after the construction of the house, then the weight of the superstructure must be calculated in accordance with the load on the foundation and load-bearing walls. Accordingly, so that the superstructure does not damage the house, the material should be light, for example, wooden bar, frame-panel structures, in some cases the building is made of aerated concrete, which has good warm and vapor barrier properties, and sip panels.

Attic device

Attic floor projects involve the use of various materials for the walls, but, in fact, the attic design is pitched roofs leaning against the walls. Of course, in different options attic floor extensions have their own characteristics, but in general they consist of the following elements:

• Roof.
• Lathing made of wooden boards, on which the roofing and insulation materials are attached.
• The ridge girder is the top of the rafter structure.
• Rafters for the roof of the attic - stiffeners, layered or hanging. In the attic, layered rafters are usually made.
• Mauerlat - beams that are laid along the perimeter of external walls and are connected to the walls with special fasteners. A rafter is attached to the Mauerlat.
• Diagonal ties (bevels) for the reliability and strength of the attic, with the help of them rafters, longitudinal beams and vertical posts are connected.
• Internal supports give stability to the attic if the area of ​​the attic is large they are supported by a ridge girder and rafters.
• An insulating layer consisting of waterproofing, insulation, sound and vapor insulators. Provides temperature control and moisture exchange between the main walls and the roof.

The minimum distance from the floor to the highest point of the ceiling in accordance with SNiP should be 2.5 m. If the height is less, then the room is an attic.

We build an attic with our own hands, the main connecting nodes:
A - ridge knot. B - rafter + screed + rack. B - rafter + ceiling beam D - ceiling beam + rack + brace. D - rack + brace

Construction technology

The dormer walls are maximally attracted to the walls of the main structure, so it is extremely difficult to achieve comfortable heat transfer. It is very important to choose the right materials for insulation, to make ventilation, the whole structure must be erected in accordance with the drawing and calculations, and wooden parts processed with a fire-fighting compound.

Do-it-yourself attic installation, how to properly fasten the nodes

Attic floor construction rules

To make the attic do it yourself long years it is necessary to fulfill the conditions that are spelled out in the SNiP standards:

• The rafters should be 250 mm or more, it is better to use glued beams. This thickness is due to the ability to lay insulation between the rafters with a thickness of at least 200 mm.
• Insulation materials should not lose their properties when high humidity, it is best to use expanded polystyrene, which has a low weight and an insignificant heat transfer coefficient. Mineral wool absorbs moisture and breaks down.
• Between the thermal insulation and the roof, there must be full ventilation, with hoods and vents, so that air can circulate freely under the entire roof surface of the attic floor.
• It is imperative to arrange a vapor barrier inside.
• A waterproofing layer is laid on the outer side of the rafters; it is recommended to additionally lay a layer of sound insulation.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make an attic with your own hands

The construction of an attic with your own hands is fraught with some difficulties, since the elements of the superstructure are at an angle, the installation of broken slopes and roof windows requires compliance with SNiP standards in the part "Loads and Impacts".

Performing the drawing of the installation floor yourself, you need to accurately calculate the loads, tilt angles, the permissible weight of the structure, and, in accordance with preliminary calculations, select the appropriate type of attic and materials for construction.

Do-it-yourself attic construction begins with the installation of maurlents around the perimeter of the house, usually a beam with a section of 100 * 100 mm is used for this.

Next, we build a frame for the room. The racks can be made of timber with a cross-section equal to the longitudinal beams, possibly made of foam concrete or metal. We fix the vertical racks at the corners of the rack structure, and then install the beams between them, with a step of no more than 2 meters, equal to the location of the attic rafters. All parts are attached to metal corners, nail plates or self-tapping screws.

We build the frame of the internal attic room, instead of vertical wooden racks, there can be a wall of foam concrete blocks or a metal frame

On top of the rack, we tighten it with a jumper and fix the structure. Follow the geometry of the building with a construction cord.

We attach the lower rafters to the resulting frame. The beam is trimmed to the calculated length, a groove is made in the base for secure attachment to the Mauerlat, the top of the beam is cut off according to the calculated angle of inclination. The installation of the lower rafters is carried out in place and is securely fixed.

Do-it-yourself installation of the attic, photo of fastening the lower rafters of the room, instead of vertical wooden racks, there can be a wall of foam concrete blocks or a metal frame

The next step is to install the top rafters. The difficulty lies in observing the angle and centering of the structure as a whole.

Advice: So that the angle of attachment of the rafters does not get lost, first a template is made from two boards, which exactly corresponds to the connection of the rafters. The beams are cut to a template on the ground and then installed on the frame.

Do-it-yourself frame attic, installation of the upper rafter structure

Attic device, construction of lathing for roofing material

The next step is to create an insulating layer. It is recommended to use non-toxic and non-flammable materials, this is especially true if a nursery or a bedroom will be located on the attic floor. WITH inside of the rafter frame, we lay the vapor barrier, fasten it with brackets. Then a layer of insulation is mounted, it is important that it fits snugly to the rafters, without cracks. On the heat-insulating layer, we mount a batten with a pitch of 500 mm, which will fix the insulation.

We build an attic with our own hands, installation of roofing material

We put a waterproofing layer on the crate, which will protect wooden elements from moisture. The roof is laid on the waterproofing.

Do-it-yourself attic construction, video materials clearly demonstrate how, in practice, to correctly install the rafters.

This video presents typical mistakes made during the installation of the attic floor.

Features of the do-it-yourself attic extension to the old house

If you plan to finish building an attic in an old private house or in a country house, for the arrangement of additional living space, then in this case the issue of dismantling the roof is relevant. Dismantling can be done by hand, be sure to follow safety precautions so that the beams do not fall on your head.

The construction of the attic provides for certain loads on the foundation and walls of the building. It is especially important to correctly distribute the loads on the walls, therefore, before building the attic, load-bearing wall structures are carefully strengthened.

Important: When designing, take into account the strength of the walls, taking into account the wear and tear of the structure.

The overlap of the old house is both the ceiling of the adjacent floor and the floor of the attic, so it is necessary to take into account the movement of warm and humid flows so that condensation does not form in the overlap, and as a result, rot and fungi. To avoid problems, you need high-quality insulation and waterproofing of the floor.

After completing the preparatory procedures, you can proceed with the connection and construction of the attic floor. During the completion of the construction, it is important to strictly adhere to the design scheme for the construction of the walls and roof of the attic. Violation of the project entails not only deviations from the design of the attic floor, but also the incorrect distribution of the load on the supporting structures can lead to the destruction of the walls and foundation of the house.

The simplest and reliable way to increase the useful living space in an old house - this is an attic with your own hands. A video on how to build an attic floor in a frame house will help to avoid global mistakes, and will tell you the nuances of how best to make an attic with your own hands. The works performed in accordance with the technology of the attic floor construction guarantee the reliability and safe operation of the extension.

It is difficult to imagine modern design of a cottage or house without the presence of an attic floor. It is being built everywhere in old houses in the place where the dilapidated attic is located, thereby increasing the total living space. Do-it-yourself attic is a complex project, but doable.

DIY attic construction - first steps

In fact, this is not the case - most specialists in the field of attic construction unanimously argue that from the angle of inclination and other changes in the structure of the rafters, the walls experience an enormous load and are subject to significant deformation. Therefore, before making the attic on your own, we highly recommend contacting a specialist so that he makes preliminary calculations and, based on them, draws a project of a rafter system that is suitable in your case.

Construction of houses with an attic - choosing the right technology

Today, there are quite a few buildings on which there is a clearly defined attic. This is either a completely new house, where an attic was designed in advance, or it is attached to an old building, which was originally thick-walled and solid. The easiest way to recognize an attic is by a gable sloping roof - this is the most suitable structure for building an attic floor.

The use of a gable sloped roof on the walls of the house compared to shed roof has a tremendous load. However, for an attic room, it is an order of magnitude more convenient, since it forms a lot of space inside.

At the gable broken structure there is a drawback - in the absence of a sufficient number of load-bearing supports, the roof is less durable in comparison with a single-pitched roofing system, and additional load-bearing supports exert additional pressure on the walls. The construction of a gable sloped roof, as a rule, requires the use of layered rafters, which require massive building walls that can withstand vertical and horizontal loads.

How to build a house with an attic - roofing system

The convenience of the attic space determines the ability to move in full growth under the rafter system. Please note that you will need to allocate 10 to 15 cm for insulation from each surface, including the ceiling. So the first impression about the height of the attic may be wrong. However, the safety of the entire structure should be put in the first position. For the installation of reinforcing additional beams, it will be correct to cut some part of the attic, rather than risk the destruction of the entire roof frame.

Before you build a house with an attic, prepare the right tools and materials. With tools, everything is simple: a hammer, a hacksaw for wood or a jigsaw, all kinds of measuring tools. Materials - nails or screws of various lengths, an antifungal agent, for the lathing in a run-up board 40 * 150 mm, for creating a continuous lathing - OSB sheets.

The type of roof covering determines the structure of the battens. If you plan to apply soft material for the roof, then the best option would be a solid lathing, and if it is hard - by one's own hands, the lathing is installed in a run-up. In the process of installing a frame made of wood (rafters and lathing), you should immediately make places for the location of the roof windows. You also need to think in advance about reliable fastening frames of windows.

Attic in a private house - auxiliary elements

There are main and secondary elements of the attic. The former include insulation, rafters and supporting structures, while the latter include windows, doors and drainage systems. Both those and others play important role... The most difficult thing is to decide on the windows. Before proceeding with the choice of windows for the attic, you need to clearly understand their purpose in terms of functionality. Today the building materials market offers the buyer two types of windows - inclined and vertical.

It is known that the former are mounted directly in the plane of the roof and transmit natural (sunlight) light by 40–45% more than vertical ones. But in winter, the sloped windows are covered with snow, which negatively affects both the overall illumination of the room and their technical condition. The doors to the attic act as a kind of connecting link between this room and the main building. They should be selected according to two main criteria: the first is strength, the second is good thermal insulation properties.

In addition, the doors should not stand out from overall interior and through them there should be free entrance to the attic. Creating an attic with your own hands is impossible without a drainage system. In this regard, with vertical windows much easier, since they come complete with ebb, but when installing inclined windows, it is necessary to carefully consider the gutter system in advance, otherwise the room under the attic will constantly experience the negative effects of excess water and moisture.

Arranging it is the easiest and fastest way to increase the amount of usable area. The rooms in the attic take on a kind of romantic areola and become a favorite pastime for the household. The main advantage of these premises is a large number of fresh air and light. But you need to approach it with all responsibility, otherwise you risk becoming hostage to weather conditions.

The mansard roof can be of any shape, but most often it is gable. And if it is also a broken line, then with its help the space is used most rationally. A huge plus of the attic floor is that its construction is much more economical than the construction of a full-fledged floor with capital walls.

The structural structure of the roof where the attic will be or the one under which there will be no living quarters is no different. The strength and stability of the roof depends entirely on its rafter system.

Rafters Is the main supporting structure of the roof. They must withstand both the weight of the roof and the load in the form of precipitation and wind. The rafter system is calculated based on the selected roofing material, as well as depending on climatic conditions terrain.

For the construction of a power rafter system, ferrous metal is used in accordance with GOST, a galvanized thin-walled cold-formed profile or wood, as well as combinations of ferrous metal and galvanized profiles, metal and wood. In places that are difficult to access for installation, it is better to use a thin-walled profile.

The choice of material directly depends on the length of the spans that need to be covered. For long distances, ferrous metal or trusses are suitable.

It is very important to use only lightweight materials and structures for the construction of an additional floor. The advantages of a thin-walled profile are that it does not require welding and can be assembled on site at bolted connections or rivets.

Wood, as a material, is also well suited, but requires additional treatment with an antiseptic.

From load-bearing structures rafters, frames or trusses are being erected. They are mounted on the Mauerlat, and then runs are made on them. If the step is large, it also becomes part of the power structures.

Mauerlat- this is a part of the roofing system in the form of a bar, laid on the perimeter of the wall and is the bottom rafter support.

An important task is how to make the attic warm, that is, to organize the insulation cake. The difference between a dwelling and a simple roof is in the need for its thermal insulation. As an additional load, all insulation is not essential and does not affect the load-bearing structure of the roof.

The main principle in the design is that the load-bearing structure must be carried out either in warm contour, or cold, but not in the middle. Warm placement is preferable, then the whole insulation cake comes out.

The most common mistakes:

• lumber is not treated with antiseptic and fireproof impregnations and this will shorten the life of your roof
• rafter legs rally with cuts without the use of heat-insulating pads, which leads to freezing and cold bridges
• cross-sections of rafters and their installation takes place "by eye" without taking into account the loads
• the rafter legs are not attached to the Mauerlat or are attached with nails, which is the same in a strong gust of wind
• the waterproofing film is laid face side inside the room, and not outside, as it should be
• insufficiently reliable fasteners of the joints of rafters with girders, sometimes it's just a couple of nails.

As a result of non-compliance with construction technologies, many get a disastrous result, even if not immediately. To avoid this, let us consider in detail how to do it.

An example of how to calculate the attic

Before starting the construction of the attic with your own hands, you will need to make a drawing. If you do not own, for example, AutoCad, you can do it by hand. It is important that you clearly see the projection of your attic from the front, from the side and its top view.

First, mark the load-bearing walls of your house in a front view (looking at the gable of the building).

So, let's say there is a house with the following initial parameters:

• Three load-bearing walls from aerated concrete 300mm thick.
• The distance between the walls is 4m.
• The floor beams of the first floor were laid with a 50cm cornice outlet.
• Since the maximum length wooden beams- 6m, then this value is taken as the basis for the width of the attic overlap. Based on this, we get a drawing of a gable sloping roof.
• Height from floor to beam - 2660mm.
• The length of the side and top rafters (roof breaks) is 3300mm each. When these values ​​are the same, then, in addition to the fact that it looks harmonious, it will be easier to calculate the area of ​​the roof covering.
• The angle of inclination of the side rafter is 60 °, the upper one is 25 °.
• The thickness of the floor beams is 250mm, of the rafter beams - 200mm.
• Vertical racks of 150 mm were supplied, on which the strapping bar, and the attic floor beam, side and upper rafters are attached to it.
• The total roof height is 4260mm, and the living space height is 2250mm. According to the norms, this is the permissible ceiling height for premises for temporary stay, that is, bedrooms, children's rooms.

In fact, an attic is a frame consisting of several posts, beams and rafters.

If the length of the transverse overlap exceeds 6m, and, accordingly, one beam cannot be dispensed with, then the upper part of the attic can be made in the form of a truss with a rack, a truss and an additional rack. In the side part, trusses can also be installed, which expand the rafters. In this case, these details are not necessary.

When calculating, you must have at hand a set of rules and tables on technical building codes, which is called "Loads and Impacts". It contains not only general provisions, but also formulas with coefficients, for example, melting, snow drift and uneven distribution over the roof area.

When calculating how to build an attic, it must be remembered that 4 types of loads act on it at once:

• own weight (it is relatively easy to calculate, knowing what kind of insulation cake will be in the ceiling and rafters)
• pressure on floors of people, furniture, etc. inside.
• the snow load on the slope is less than 30 ° equal to 1.52 kPa; if the slope is steeper than 60 °, then it does not have such a load
• wind, which acts evenly on all the rafters from the windy side, and from the leeward side there is suction at this time, "tearing off" both the upper and the side rafters.

Also, the tear-off force of the rafters is especially effective when the wind blows into the gable of the building. These loads are calculated using formulas using the appropriate aerodynamic coefficient.

We build an attic with our own hands

Installation sequence:

• First of all, floor beams with a section of 70 (50) x 250mm are laid with a step of 1m (for each wall length this is calculated individually, the main thing is that the step is the same). In this case, this is also explained by the fact that a staircase will go into one of the gaps, and it should not be already 90cm. If you take a smaller step, the floor beam would have to be trimmed and reinforced, and this is an additional concern.
• On the sides, beams are packed to the beams, on which it is laid sheet material or boards.
• After installing the beams, racks are attached to them in 2 rows, which are leveled using a level with a plumb line, and then temporary jibs are made to them, perpendicular to each other and nailed, along and across from the roof axis. This additionally secures the beams and prevents them from deviating to the side. Any board can be used for the jib.
• A rope is pulled between the two extreme posts and the rest of the posts are leveled along it. Their step is always equal to the step of the floor beams. All racks are fixed in the same way as the extreme ones. As a result, you should get two parallel rows of racks, on which the strapping beams are then placed.
• Runs are laid and fixed on racks with 150mm nails and corners on self-tapping screws.

• On top, beams from a bar of 50 x 200 mm are placed on the edge, which increases their rigidity. Since subsequently there is no significant load on them, this section, as a rule, is sufficient. But in order to insure them during installation, supports from a bar not thinner than 25mm are brought under them. At this stage, the rigidity of the attic is provided only in the transverse direction; in the longitudinal direction, the structure is unstable. From above, while the rafters are not installed, one or two boards can also be temporarily reinforced on the crossbars.
• The lower rafters are installed with a section of 50 x 150 mm. First, a template is made from a 25 x 150mm board (it is easier to process). The length is measured, applied to the upper beam and the shape of the joint is drawn directly on the board, which is then cut out. Next, the template is tried on at all other places where the rafters are installed, and if it coincides with them, all the legs are cut out according to the template. However, the lower part, which rests on the Mauerlat, is cut in place. The rafters are attached using corners with screws and nails. You can mount beams with rafters in parallel, that is, when all the elements are attached in one span at once, or you can sequentially, when all the floor beams are installed first, and then all the side rafters.
• The so-called wind connections are being established. These are wooden braces that expand the top point at the level where the attic beams are installed.
• The queue of the upper rafters. For convenience, at the level of the ridge, an overlay and tightening is sometimes made in the middle in order to knock the rafters on the ground, and then raise and loosen them in place. The center of the roof is marked with a temporary rack, which is nailed to the Mauerlat and extreme tightening from the end side so that this board goes up the center of the roof. This will be the guideline for the rafters. Further, as in the case of the lower ones, a template is made by applying it with one end to the edge of the installed board, and the other to the girder on which the upper rafters will rest. Saw it out, try it on to all points on both sides of the roof. If the struts were fixed in parallel, there should be no problem with the upper rafters.
• The required number of rafter legs is made according to the template. They are placed on longitudinal beams for sawing, fastened with corners and in the upper part they are connected with scraps of boards on self-tapping screws or metal plates. Often they are strengthened for cuts to cross beams: hanging racks 25 x 150mm are fixed between the joint of two rafters and the attic tightening.
• Next, the attic ceiling is installed in the same way as the floor, when boards are laid on the sides on the nailed bars.

• Installation of a frame for sewing up a pediment, it is called a half-timbered house. Here it is indicated window hole... A board 50 x 150mm with a step of about 600-700mm can act as its racks. Important: the edge of the rack should go across the pediment, creating additional rigidity.
• Now you can start sewing the gable with boards. It is worth doing this before laying the crate, so that later, if some boards go beyond the rafters, it will be easier to cut them down. If you do the opposite, you will have to adjust the corner of each board to the existing crate. Up to the attic floor beam, the pediment is sewn up with planks horizontally. The remaining piece of the pediment is sewn up vertically.
• Top links are made. Since the gable frame beams were attached to a sufficiently flexible floor beam, it is necessary to make a kind of stiffening truss using the next floor beam.
• A brace is installed, which expands the upper part of the rafters. With the base, it is attached to the third from the edge of the floor beam, and with the end it rests on the most extreme point of the ridge. This element is used more often with soft roofing, when the rigidity of the ridge is not enough.

If the house is completely frame, then it is necessary to establish such connections in the overlap of the first floor. If the house is reinforced concrete, then in the upper part of the floor there is a stiffness belt and does not need connections.
In some cases, it is also necessary to provide for stiffness ties in the rafters. If corrugated board or metal tiles are used as roofing, then the rafters do not have to be reinforced: the sheet material will serve as a stiffness diaphragm anyway, if it is properly installed.

Fastening elements to each other can be very diverse, for example, staples with nails, wooden or metal plates, MZP (metal toothed plates, whose teeth are driven in with a sledgehammer). It is important to remember that the length of the nails should be at least twice the thickness of the board you are nailing.

Fastening the lathing

Depending on the selected roofing, at the final stage of the attic construction, the sheathing is laid.

The lathing is a construction of beams that are laid perpendicular to the rafter legs, attaching precisely to them. The function of the battens is to take on the weight of the roof covering, keeping it securely in place.

Sheathing for sheet covering is a solid crate and is made of edged boards by 25mm. The width should be no more than 140mm, since wide boards tend to deform. If there is more than 1m between the rafters, then it may be necessary to speed up the course of the rafters with special bars, and then lay out the boards. Next, roofing material or glassine is placed, and roofing material is spread on top. It should be noted that such a lathing makes the roof extremely reliable and suitable for absolutely all types of coverings, while reducing the noise from rain.

Sheathing for metal tiles make them sparse and, if possible, adjust the tiles to the course of the wave. It is mounted from edged boards 25 (30) x 100mm with a step of 80-100cm. The peculiarity lies in the fact that before installation on the rafters, a hydro-windproof membrane is strengthened. The first board from the eaves should be installed higher than the rest at the height of the shingles wave. If short boards are used, their joints are best staggered.

Lathing for ceramic tiles and other piece items are considered the most difficult. The work also begins with the installation of a hydro-barrier, and then a sparse crate is made of 50 x 50mm bars. The challenge is to maintain a precise rhythm between the elements, as one step is equal to the covering surface of one tile.

There are always several approaches to the process of any construction. Here we described how to make an attic with our own hands on an already erected house, however, there are times when the attic is assembled in a position on the ground and put in place with a crane, and then it is already strengthened in the right places.