Often people born and raised in the city refuse to purchase country houses and plots, since the latter are associated with dirt, damaged shoes and many other, unsightly moments for the townspeople. However, civilization does not stand still, and today many ways of organizing space have appeared at the disposal of the masters. suburban area and the ennobling of the suburban area, thanks to which you can forget about the impassable dirt forever. One of these methods is the arrangement of the sidewalk with tiles that have strength, durability and high decorative characteristics. Despite the fact that the styling paving slabs- not the only way to improve backyard territory, they often give preference to it, for its simplicity, relative cheapness and the absence of the need to use specialized equipment (for example, an asphalt roller when paving a site or a flat concrete rammer when concreting a territory). One more distinctive feature tiled covering, which can be attributed to the advantages, is the ability to take a technological break in the process of arranging the sidewalk, which cannot be said about asphalting and concreting. Given the relevance of the topic, we considered it necessary to talk about the process of laying paving slabs. Due to the fact that the preparation of the site is an integral stage of laying the tiles, in this article we will answer the question: "How to prepare the site for paving slabs?"

Requirements for the base for paving slabs

How to lay paving slabs and be satisfied with the result? To do this, it is necessary to comply with a certain set of requirements that are mandatory when laying the specified material. Many of them relate directly to the quality of the base for paving slabs. Basic Requirements are as follows:

• Drainage, the need for arrangement of which is explained by the importance of draining accumulated water and preventing its destructive effect on the sidewalk;
• Arrangement of a waterproofing system, namely the use of a special substrate, will prevent excessive accumulation of moisture;
• Organization of a drain, implying a slope of the terrain and a system of special drain grooves;
• The surface should be as flat as possible, which will ensure the ideal bedding of the shaped paving elements;
• The presence of a recess, which will provide an opportunity for arrangement drainage system and the absence of movement of individual elements and, as a result, deformation, in the event of soil subsidence.

What needs to be prepared before laying the tiles?

Before proceeding with the preparation of the base for paving slabs on the street, purchase all the required tools and materials:

• Paving slabs and the corresponding estimated number of curbs required for finishing the area allocated for paving;
• Metal or wood stakes or pins;
• The horizontal level, which is needed to fit the horizontal paving stones;
• A regular watering can or a hose with a splitter required for humidification sand pillow and bases;
• A metal corner, a rake and a channel, necessary for leveling the bedding of the base;
• Broom.
• In addition, to mark the site, you will need twine, a shovel and other gardening tools to remove the top fertile soil layer, construct a trench and install curbs.

How to prepare the ground for laying paving slabs: the main steps

Laying paving slabs is a multi-stage process that includes several stages:

• Preparation of a site for laying paving slabs;
• Arrangement of the so-called underlayment or cushion for paving slabs;
• Direct laying of paving slabs.

Soil stabilization and subsequent preparation

Preparation of a site for paving slabs includes a set of measures, the complexity of which will vary depending on the initial state of the soil. If it is relatively flat, preparatory activities will be quite straightforward: etching and uprooting vegetation, final leveling of the soil (removing mounds and filling holes) with its subsequent compaction.

If, in the process of leveling the soil, you are faced with large irregularities in its surface over large areas, you must use a special construction equipment such as excavators, scrapers and bulldozers, as well as modern instrumentation such as laser level called a level.

Arrangement of the underlying layer

After you have stabilized the soil, eliminating all the irregularities on its surface, and made its marking with the subsequent installation of elevation marks, you can start arranging the underlying layer. This stage is just as necessary as the previous one, and it is impossible to level the site for paving slabs without arranging the underlying layer.

The underlying layer is a kind of multilayer cake, the installation of which will require a number of loose stone materials used to prepare the base for paving slabs. They are laid on stabilized soil in a certain order, depending on the expected loads on the sidewalk, with the subsequent compulsory compaction of each of the layers. The thickness of each layer is also a variable parameter and depends on a combination of external factors. The function of the underlayment is as follows:

Due to the presence of the underlying layer, the tiles are protected from destruction due to soil movement in winter;

After arranging the underlying layer, the smallest surface defects that remained unnoticed during the soil stabilization process are visually leveled, as a result of which the surface acquires a more aesthetic appearance.

There are a number of technologies in accordance with which the subbase is prepared. The choice of each of them depends on the expected load on the sidewalk to be mounted and the conditions of its operation.

If the sidewalk will be exposed to loads from moving trucks, or you are faced with problems with the natural soil on which the installation will be carried out, it is recommended to give preference to the first option, which involves laying the following layers:

• Cement mortar (layer thickness is 3 cm);
• Reinforced concrete (layer thickness - 10-15 cm).

If you plan to carry out the installation of a site intended for the movement of light vehicles, the preparation of the underlying layer implies the laying of the following materials:

• Cement-sand mixture (layer thickness not less than 3 cm);
• Sand or screenings (10 cm layer);
• Crushed stone, which is laid in a layer of 20 cm.

If the track to be mounted is intended only for the movement of pedestrians, it is necessary to prepare an underlay for its arrangement, consisting of the following materials:

• A cement-sand mixture, the amount of which should be sufficient to prepare a 3-centimeter layer;
• Sand (layer thickness 10 cm);
• Crushed stone (layer thickness is also 10 cm).

How to choose the most suitable sub-basement technology?

As noted earlier, when choosing the necessary technology for arranging the underlying layer, first of all, it is necessary to take into account the conditions under which the operation of the paving slabs and the walkway as a whole will be carried out. If the paving slabs will be used for installation only walking paths, the first option for the preparation of the underlying layer, involving concreting, is losing its relevance. This is due to the additional costs that concreting can entail.

Important! Often, the owners of suburban areas and sites located within the city, had to deal with subsidence of the soil due to the high content of loam. In such cases, experts recommend giving preference to the second option for preparing the underlying layer, intended for the movement of light vehicles.

How to level the yard under the paving slabs, if it becomes necessary to arrange the underlayment in accordance with various technologies? When one section of the territory paved with paving slabs is designed for the passage of cars, and the other - only for pedestrian zones, it is quite logical that it is necessary to give preference to options that can withstand higher loads. However, experts believe that this is a waste of money and recommend combining several options at one facility. This will minimize the cost of laying paving slabs as much as possible.

Laying paving slabs on the ground

If, during operation, only low and medium loads (movement of people and passenger cars), paving slabs can be laid directly on the ground. In this regard, it does not need to be stabilized by concreting with subsequent reinforcement of the base.

But, despite this, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil and the intensity of the loads imposed on the track and, based on the data obtained, choose the right materials for arranging the underlying layer and carry out its laying. Also, modern construction market offers a range of underlays on which you can directly lay paving slabs. The use of these materials ensures natural circulation precipitation, which allows the soil to "breathe", which is impossible when concreting or asphalting the soil.

Arrangement of the underlying layer: a brief description of the options

How to level the area under the paving slabs? V modern conditions the most popular are the following options:

• Laying of paving slabs on a gartsovka;
• Laying paving slabs for screening;
• Laying paving slabs on the sand.

Important! When using the same materials for the preparation of the subbase, the parameters finished structure, such as the thickness of the underlying layer, the presence or absence of geotextiles, can vary. All this is calculated in accordance with SNiP, taking into account the expected loads and the type of soil.

Laying tiles on a rack

Laying paving slabs on a harrow is relevant if the sidewalk is characterized by the presence of a significant slope. This is understandable. Gartsovka is dry cement-sand mixture, the setting of which occurs under the tiles when the first precipitation falls. A similar effect can be achieved by using a hose to water the tiles after installation. This technique will ensure reliable adhesion of the tile and prevent it from sliding towards the slope.

In addition, experts recommend giving preference to this option even if the land on which the paving slabs will be laid does not have sufficient water absorption. In this regard, when choosing between two options - laying tiles on sand or on a pavement, give preference to the latter, since insufficient water absorption of the soil can cause the sand to be washed out from under the tiles.

Important! When laying tiles on a grinder, remember that it is prone to rapid fading under the influence of the scorching sun, and therefore, when working under the scorching sun, try to speed up as much as possible and shorten the working time, as well as provide shade. In addition, the use of wet sand reduces the storage time of the grinder, which is due to the absorption of moisture by the cement and the start of the process of its hardening.

Laying tiles on sand

This method is traditional for the arrangement of sidewalks. Laying tiles on sand is in many ways similar to that when using a grinder. It is also produced on a 10-20 cm thick layer of compacted gravel, which acts as a cushion for paving slabs. In this case, the thickness of the sand layer should not exceed 10 cm, which will prevent excessive shrinkage. Having given preference to the technology of laying paving slabs on sand, it is necessary in advance to exclude the washing out of sand from under the slabs. To do this, along the perimeter of the site paved with tiles, it is enough to equip a curb, which is concreted from the outside with a mortar made on the basis of cement of a strength grade of at least M100.

A layer of geotextile laid under a layer of sand embankment will also prevent sand washing out. Laying of geotextiles can be carried out using another, more advanced technology, which implies the use of two layers of geotextiles - one is laid directly on the stabilized soil, and the second - on the compacted layer of rubble.

Laying tiles for screening

This option is considered the most budgetary alternative to the first two methods of tiling. Granite screening is a material that is a waste of crushed stone production and consists of crushed stone sand and small fragments, so that it can be used as a base for paving slabs, as well as a crushed stone and sand layer. At the same time, it is easily compacted and, unlike sand, has less shrinkage.

Important! Despite all the advantages of screening out, its independent use is not encouraged if the soil is unstable and low water absorption... In such cases, a drainage layer of crushed stone is equipped, after which paving slabs are laid for screening. In these cases, the inclusion of geotextiles in the laying technology is also encouraged.

Laying paving slabs on a monolithic base

This technology is considered one of the most expensive, but often it is impossible to do without it. We are talking about those cases when the operation of tiled paths will be carried out under conditions of increased loads, which are not able to perceive the rammed bulk base.

The essence of this technology is to create a monolithic platform that is not susceptible to problem soils, which are prone to deformation, cracking and subsidence. In addition, the platform will help to evenly distribute the loads on the sidewalk. The technology for creating a monolithic base includes two options:

• Laying paving slabs on asphalt;
• Laying paving slabs on concrete.

The first option is used in cases where the old asphalt pavement has worn out, but it is not planned to dismantle it. In this regard, the most worn-out areas of asphalt are removed and filled with concrete mortar... The existing pits are also filled with concrete. After that, proceed to the direct laying of paving slabs on a 2-centimeter layer of mortar.

The second option involves the installation of a concrete pad on a pre-prepared reinforcing mesh frame with a cell size of 10x10 cm. Laying tiles on a concrete monolithic base is most often practiced on unstable soils, as well as in places with constant intense loads, for example, in parking lots.

After you have prepared the base in accordance with one of the technologies discussed above, you need to proceed with the direct laying of the tiles. There are many installation technologies, but we will consider the most common option - installation along the guides.

Pegs are installed along the perimeter of the site on which the tiles will be laid. Subsequently, elevation marks will be carried out on them, which are connected with a nylon twine. Thanks to this technique, we get the top of the future tiled canvas. The tiles are laid in strips 3 m wide, the length of which is determined by the distance from one taut twine to another.

It is recommended to start laying tiles from the corner closest to front door at home, or from the main element of the landscape. In the process of laying the tiles, it must be pressed as tightly as possible to the base, while each paving element is compacted with a rubber hammer and wooden block... To do this, the tiles are laid on the base, after which, tapping rubber hammer through the bar, carry out its maximum pressing. After completing the laying of the tiles, their final processing is carried out using a vibrating plate, which will allow finishing material finally fall into place. Thanks to this technique, the tile surface will become as smooth and even as possible, and water will not accumulate on its surface.

When laying tiles, take care of buying special corner tiles with rounded edges, with which corners and individual ornaments are laid out.

Upon completion of the installation, the tiles are covered with sand. For these purposes, you can use special painted sand to match the color of the tiles or contrasting shades, which will give the coating the greatest decorative effect.

Paving slabs are valued for their practicality, high strength, durability, resistance to moisture and temperature extremes. It does not emit substances harmful to humans when heated, like an asphalt pavement. The variety of shapes, sizes, colors and textures of road building material is amazing. By combining different types products, you can create beautiful coatings. Laying paving slabs requires strict adherence to all building regulations... If the paving technology is violated, the pavement quickly deteriorates.

It can be vibrocast and vibropressed. Products differ in manufacturing technology. Vibro-cast elements are created by tamping the solution on a vibrating table. In the manufacture of a vibropressed product, the mixture is subjected to pressure with vibration. Vibro-compressed products have higher strength. Tiles are made from concrete mix and clay. Screenings of granite rocks and plasticizers are added to the composition. The most durable is granite tiles. It is made from natural granite.

Products can be diamond-shaped, hexagonal, rectangular, square and wedge-shaped. Popular curly material "Wave" (with wavy edges), "Clover" (with semicircular protrusions) and "Bone" (resembles a coil). There are many ways to install diamond tiles (hexagons, snowflakes, stars). The rhombuses can be used to create a 3D effect.

For creating garden paths near cottages and country houses, they purchase vibrocast tiles with a thickness of 40 mm. Vibro-compressed products can be laid on roads with heavy loads (squares, sidewalks). They must be at least 60 mm thick. If you plan to lay it outdoors on the roadway, it is better to use granite tiles. Heavy traffic of light vehicles will withstand the material with a thickness of 70-80 mm. If trucks are to be driven on the road, the thickness of the coating should be 100 mm.

Before buying, you need to evaluate the quality of the tiles. On its surface there should be no holes, notches and chippings. When the tiles are tapped against each other, a ringing sound... If the sound is dull, you must refuse to buy the product. You should not buy brightly colored products, as well as those in which there are voids. To estimate the density of a material, you need to ask it to break. It is necessary to find out how smooth the surface of the product is. If the paving slabs lie on the table with all corners, lie flat and do not swing, they are of high quality.

Styling options

Before purchasing paving slabs, you must choose a laying option. On straight and level areas, it is easiest to follow a linear scheme. This technology for laying paving slabs is the simplest. It allows you to use material economically.

Linear layouts can be horizontal, vertical, straight, or offset. When the rows are shifted, the pavement pattern resembles brickwork... If you use products different shades, you can get the effect of a "caterpillar track". Rows of tiles are sometimes placed at an angle to the track line. This arrangement is called diagonal.

If a diagonal-angular layout is used, a herringbone or braided pattern is formed. To lay the herringbone, the rows of tiles are placed at an angle of 45 ° to the track line. "Braid" is paved, alternating horizontal and vertical laying. The diagonal angle pattern is highly durable. It visually reduces the space.

The tiles can be installed in modules of 2-3 elements. Combining 2 colors creates a checkerboard pattern. If you use the elements different sizes and shade, you get an original chaotic pattern. On adjoining territory the spiral layout looks nice. To create decorative circles, you need to purchase material with wedge-shaped elements. Artistic layout is made from products different forms and colors. When choosing methods of laying tiles, one must take into account the design of architectural buildings and backyard areas.

Required materials and tools

To complete the installation work, you need to purchase tools:

1. Bayonet and shovels for excavation.
2. Rake to level the surface bulk materials.
3. Stakes and rope for marking the site.
4. Rubber mallet for leveling the material (wooden mallet with rubber head).
5. Building level (1.5-2 m).
6. Roulette.
7. A brush or broom.
8. Stamping.
9. Rubber spatula.
10. Smooth bar for leveling the surface of the layers.
11. Grinder (diamond-coated disc).
12. Scrap to carry out the dismantling of paving slabs.

You need to prepare curbs, sand, crushed stone (fractions 10-20, 20-50) or gravel, plaster mix or cement (M400, M500). To strengthen the foundation of the covering, you will need a reinforcing lattice with cells of 10x10 or 8x8 cm. A laying machine will help to create a covering over a large area.

Marking future tracks

To properly lay out the tiles yourself, you first need to make the markup. You need to start work near a building, fence or gate. You need to hammer 2 pegs near the structure. The distance between them should correspond to the width of the track. It is better to adjust the width of the coating to the size of the product so that you do not have to cut the material. Since the structure will be supported by curbs, it is necessary to leave space for them (10 cm on each side). The other 2 pegs are hammered near another building. 2 ropes are pulled between the pegs.

Laying of street tiles over a large area is carried out after it is divided into strips 1-1.5 m wide. If the road has bends, it is divided into small sections. The marking of each section is done separately.

Excavation and protective layer

Volume earthworks depends on the type of soil. If the soil is dense and clayey, it is enough to remove a layer 15-20 cm thick to remove the roots of the plants. When the soil is loose, it is necessary to remove a layer 30-35 cm thick. If you plan to lay paving slabs in winter, the paving trench must be prepared before the cold weather.

Sand is poured onto the surface of the trench. The sand is compacted together with the soil. So that the plant seeds remaining in the soil do not germinate and do not destroy the coating, a non-woven fabric is laid at the bottom of the trench. The strips of material should overlap each other by 15-20 cm.

Drainage device

Correct styling tiles are not a guarantee of the durability of the coating. Ground and rainwater particles of sand and soil are gradually washed away, destroying the base of the road. To prevent moisture from spoiling the coating, it is necessary to make a drainage layer.

At the bottom of the trench, gravel must be poured. The layer thickness should be 15-18 cm. The crushed stone should be well tamped and leveled. A thin layer of sand is poured on top and also leveled, on which a non-woven fabric is laid. Care must be taken to ensure that the water flows to the edges of the walkway. To do this, make transverse and longitudinal slopes. A pillow for paving slabs is carried out on the last stage preparatory work.

Placement of enclosing curbs

The curb is laid immediately after the drainage work has been completed. It is better to use a ready-made piece of concrete curb. Curb blocks are installed near the vertical cut of the soil along the edges of the road. It is desirable that the top edge of the curb is 1–2 cm above the soil level. Otherwise, the tracks will be permanently dirty.

The curb blocks are fixed with concrete mortar. After laying the curb, you need to check how smooth it is. For this, a building level is used. If some units are installed incorrectly, their position is corrected wooden mallet.

Applicable types of bases

Before laying out the tile, you need to make the base. The underlayment helps to level the surface of the site. It gives stability to the coating and increases its strength. Solid foundation prevents the sidewalk from collapsing under the weight of people and cars. It protects the coating from destruction in autumn-winter period when ice forms in its gaps.

The technology for laying paving slabs depends on the method of using the pavement. If the load on its surface is small (footpath), it is enough to make an underlying layer consisting of sand and cement. If paving is carried out under a car, a concrete base is required.

Concrete

Before concreting the base, perform reinforcement work. Reinforcing mesh is laid on metal or stone supports. The reinforcement should be 3-5 cm above the surface of the trench. Gartsovka for paving slabs is prepared from sand and cement in a ratio of 3: 1. Better to use river or quarry washed sand. It should not contain particles of clay or lime. The mortar is evenly and thoroughly distributed over the trench area to achieve an even surface.

It is better to immediately fill the entire path with concrete. If part of the work is postponed until the next day, the area filled with concrete must be covered with polyethylene. The concrete base for paving slabs should have a thickness of 10-12 cm. In order for the cement pad to be strong, it is moistened for 3-5 days. After wetting, the concrete is covered with polyethylene. The coating can be laid in 7-12 days.

Of sand and cement

The trench is filled with a mixture of sand and cement. It is prepared in a 3: 1 ratio. The thickness of the sand-cement base should be 12-15 cm. The underlying layer must be well tamped and leveled. If the depth of the trench is too deep, it can be reduced with sand. Sand is poured under the base and carefully tamped.

The technology of paving slabs requires that the cement-sand mixture be dry. Therefore, it is better to make the foundation just before paving in dry weather. The cement-sand layer must be laid on geotextiles. If this is not done, the sand will quickly wash out, and the tiles will sag.

Tile processing before laying

Before installation, the tiles must be treated with a hydrophobic solution. The tool will increase the frost resistance and moisture resistance of the material, as well as increase its service life. Water repellents improve decorative qualities and protect against fungal microorganisms. Salt stains do not appear on the surface treated with a hydrophobic solution. The material is immersed in a hydrophobic composition, then dried. The procedure is repeated.

During processing, you need to carefully inspect all elements. Defective products must be put aside. Whenever you need to cut paving slabs to shape corners, rejected items come in handy.

Laying work must be carried out under suitable weather conditions. The weather should be dry and calm. Do not lay the coating on a sand-cement base when sub-zero temperature... When the soil freezes, it expands, and after thawing, it sags. If the coating is laid on frozen ground, it will collapse after it thaws. The rules for laying paving slabs allow you to perform work on a concrete base during frost, but this is undesirable.

Mounting

Paving slabs on a concrete base are fixed with cement mortar. The seams are completely filled with the mixture. In this case, the thickness of the seams should not exceed 3 mm. When laying the elements, you need to be on the surface. You cannot step on the foundation. After laying each row, you need to check the quality of the work performed. building level... Elements that are not laid correctly are leveled with a rubber mallet.

It is necessary to lay it on a cement-sand base, hammering in each element with a wooden mallet. The material should be firmly attached to the base. If the product "falls through", a layer of sand should be poured under it. The gaps between the tiles are filled with mixture or sand. After completing the work, the coating is moistened with a hose with a spray. If the mixture has "sagged" in the gaps, you need to pour a little more mixture into them. You can use the coating after 2-3 days.

Sealing of paving slabs is carried out using sand, cement or concrete mixture. If sand is used, it must be sieved beforehand. Cement mixture prepared from cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 5. When preparing a concrete mixture, cement is mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 3. Sand and mixtures must be dry. Layout of grout is carried out using rubber spatula... The mix level in the gaps should be between 1/2 and 3/4 of the tile height. The excess mixture is swept from the cover with a broom.

After that, they begin to fill the seams. When the mixture hardens (after 1-3 days), the mixture is poured into the gaps and moistened again. After the composition has dried, the procedure is repeated a third time. You may need to add the mixture to the seams a few more times. You can finish the work when the mixture in the gaps is flush with the tile surface.

Laying paving slabs is a complex undertaking that requires compliance with many building rules. Failure to comply with one of the rules leads to the destruction of the entire complex.

Preparatory work. The first stage of the preparatory work for laying paving slabs and paving stones is to break down the contour of the area to be laid and to set up control "beacons". This takes into account the corners of the territory, binding to the available areas, slopes. After the work has been done to break down the contour, they begin to prepare the base, which includes the following types of work:

Layout. After setting the height level, you need to remove upper layer soil and make a leveling layer of gravel or crushed stone.

Slope device, drainage. It should be taken into account that despite the tight-fitting seams of the paving stones, the base is saturated with water. Therefore, a waterproof drainage bearing layer (gravel, crushed stone) is required at the base. Then part of the surface water can be diverted directly through the paving stones and the carrier layer into the ground. In any case, the paving stone cover must necessarily have slopes and gutters to drain rainwater. This is necessary so that a "swamp" does not form under the paving stones.

Carrier layer device. For the bearing layer, frost-resistant material, homogeneous in grain size (crushed stone, gravel) must be used. This material must be applied evenly in height and in a straight line with appropriate slopes. When constructing simple pedestrian paths, a layer of 15 to 20 cm is most often used.When constructing areas of paving stones for the passage of cars, a layer of 20 to 30 cm is used.Under heavy loads, the bearing layer increases and is laid in several layers, each layer must be compacted with a vibrating plate or roller.

Installation of curbs. To avoid "spreading" of the paving stones along the edges, use a plastic curb or curb, which should reach half the height of the paving stone and then can be covered with natural soil.

Arrangement of a leveling sand layer for paving stones. On the compacted bearing layer, a layer of sand 3 - 5 cm thick is applied as an underlying layer, always clean (without clay). Before laying the underlayment, leveling strips must be set up and secured with sand.

After the guides are set in accordance with all slopes and are well fixed, the underlying layer is laid between them and smoothed using a rule so that the paving stones, before they are compacted, lie 1 cm higher from the required level. Then the guides are carefully removed, and the remaining grooves are carefully filled with sand. Do not step on the laid flooring !!!

Laying paving stones

For laying paving slabs with a sufficient volume of work, a team of 4 people is required, which can, on average, master a volume of 30 -40 m2 per 1 working shift with all the accompanying work.

Laying begins:

• From the lowest point to the rising one;
• From an optically important border;
• From important visual elements such as the front door of the house, porch, etc.

Before starting to lay the first row of paving stones, to maintain the exact distance of the seams, you need to pull the cord along the entire length and width. of this object... Then, adhering to the taut cord, we proceed with the installation. It is recommended to check the exact position of the seams every three rows of paving stones.

It is laid with a rubber hammer, lightly tapping on the cobblestones. Every 5 m2 of paved, but not compacted, paving stones, its horizontal surface is controlled using a 2-meter rule, with errors from 5 mm to 1 cm per 2 meters of the laid area.

Problems often arise with very accurate cutting of paving stones. For this there are cutting discs diamond-coated. On site up to 100 m2, up to two discs are completely worn out.

Seam sealing and vibration compaction. After the paving stones are laid, the covering is compacted with a vibrating plate. After the first vibration compaction of the finished coating, a little of necessarily very dry sieved and clean is poured onto the surface river sand, so that the sand easily and tightly fills the gaps between the elements. The poured sand is scattered evenly over the entire area and hammered into the seams by simple sweeping, "tying" the entire coating firmly and reliably. Then the dry and clean coating is compacted again with a vibrating plate and a layer of dry sieved sand is applied. It is recommended to leave this layer of sand to sit for a while. After that, you can once again propose the site.

Current operation. V winter time to avoid ice build-up, the coating should be regularly cleaned with a broom and a wooden shovel. To reduce slipperiness, you can sprinkle with sand. If the snow was not removed in time, and ice has formed, in no case remove the ice with metal scrap. Snow removal equipment servicing the pavement must also have a rubber nozzle on the blade.

When exposed various materials dirt can appear on the paving stones, which significantly changes the appearance of the coating. For example, tires leave black streaks, dust and road dirt make the surface appear black and gray. With the help of cleaning agents and special substances, the surface can be restored to its original color.

- high quality and pretty reliable material for road surfaces, relatively inexpensive in cost, easy to install and dismantle, which compares favorably with its main competitors, such as concrete, asphalt and paving stones. It can be laid both as garden paths and as a cover for a specific area in the yard. Existing today wide choose paving slabs, a variety of installation options while maintaining individuality through the use of various colors and patterns, will allow you to design the site in accordance with your taste preferences.

Paving slabs can be laid both as garden paths and as a cover for a specific area in the yard.

Qualitatively and competently laid paving slabs, asphalt or concrete largely determine architectural style plot, as well as the durability of paved road surfaces.

Laying of paving slabs on small area is not a particularly difficult task, therefore, having familiarized yourself with the technology of its laying, having studied the requirements for paving slabs, having prepared necessary tools and materials, you can (laying asphalt is a more laborious process).

Planning and Layout: Tools and Materials

So, at the first stage, you need to carefully plan all types of work yourself: determine and create, taking into account the slopes, a plan-drawing of the site on which it will be produced, choose a mosaic of colors and a laying scheme. Then, based on this, the required volume of materials should be calculated: to lay the base: gravel or crushed stone, cement (M400, M500), sand; required amount tiles (for covering paths with a thickness of 50-60 mm) and borders.

The most important stages of laying paving slabs: preparation of the subgrade for laying; filling of sand and gravel cushion; seal; alignment; laying tiles; compaction of the laid tiles.

• roulette;
• wooden or metal pegs;
• strong twine;
• building level;
• channel;
• profile;
• manual or electric vibratory rammer;
• Bulgarian;
• discs cutting concrete;
• Master OK;
• rubber hammer;
• wooden mallet;
• rake;
• watering hose (preferably with a diffuser).

The next step in laying the tiles yourself will be marking the site (or path). Using a tape measure, a platform (or path) is marked, pegs are driven in at the corners, taking into account the slope of the paving slabs, and tied with twine, fixing the boundaries of the site (or path) on which laying will be carried out.

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Preparatory work

The first layer is laid, leveled and tamped with gravel or crushed stone at the same height and at the same level, taking into account the expected slope of the paving slabs. After that, it is required to lay an intermediate layer of sand, the thickness of which after compaction should be 3-5 cm.

So, initially the foundation is being prepared. It should be remembered that the guarantee of quality and durability when laying tiles is precisely a carefully and conscientiously prepared base, therefore, this stage of work must be treated with special attention... A well-worked base will not allow the site (or track) to sag in the "process of operation".

First, the old coating is removed (asphalt, concrete or turf), the soil is removed to a depth of 15-20 cm. Then, longitudinal and transverse slopes are made to drain water to the edges of the path (or platform). Then gravel or crushed stone is laid, leveled and tamped at the same height and level, taking into account the assumed slope of the paving slabs. After that, it is required to lay an intermediate layer of sand, the thickness of which after compaction should be 3-5 cm.

In some cases, to strengthen the base on the sand-crushed stone mixture, you can also put concrete screed.

Before compaction, the paving slabs should be 1-1.5 cm higher than the planned height of the pavement. with a free flow of water. In some cases, to strengthen the base on the sand-crushed stone mixture, you can also put a concrete screed. And if no vehicles are planned to travel along the laid tiles, then the base “pillow” can be laid without the use of gravel, with coarse, slightly moistened sand, 10-15 cm high. The sand layer is generously moistened with water from a hose with a spray and rammed: a couple of hours, and on cloudy - the next day.

A cement-sand mixture is being prepared (the ratio depends on the brand of cement, usually 1x3, 1x4). We pour the mixture onto a prepared, rammed surface, use a rake to level the mixture over the area, while using the guides made of metal tubes. Then we make a screed, you can use a channel, to a flat surface, taking into account the planned slope of the paving slabs.

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The main stage is laying tiles

We lay the paving slabs on the prepared layer and tamp them using a vibrating plate or a rubber or wooden mallet.

In order not to disturb the prepared surface, the tiles are laid "away from you". In order for the tile to fit as tightly as possible to the previous one, the laying is carried out diagonally, observing the slope. The thickness of the seam (gap between the tiles) of 1-2 mm will be quite enough to create a solid, reliable coating and subsequent filling with sand or dry mixture.

The laid tile is pre-leveled with a mallet, if required, sand is placed under it with a trowel, after which it is leveled again, not forgetting about the slope. The protruding elements are leveled with a rubber hammer under the level. If pattern elements are used in the intended drawing of a path or platform and the tiles must be cut, then this should be done only after the installation of the whole tile is completed. This operation is carried out with a grinder, which cuts concrete like oil with a special disc.

To give a track (or pad) a complete geometric shape, you can independently install curbs along the edges of the tiled track.

In order to give the track (or site) a complete geometric shape, you can independently install curbs along the edges of the tiled track. To lay them, you will need to dig trenches along the edges of the path along a cord of the required depth so that the top of the laid curb to the height of the chamfer exceeds the level on which the tiles are laid. We plant a concrete fence on cement mortar, spill the voids with a solution and fill it with a dry mixture.

After all these manipulations, the site (or track) is checked for various irregularities. Defects (if any were found) are eliminated and all seams are filled with a dry mixture. Then the excess should be swept away, and using a hose with a spray gun, the mixture of gaps and seams is moistened. In places where the mixture in the seams has noticeably subsided, more mixture is poured. At this point, you should pay attention, since the mixture, correctly distributed over the joints, takes on part of the load on the surface of the adjacent tiles, making the coating even more reliable.

The path (or playground) will be ready for use in a couple of days and will look much more fun and elegant than asphalt or concrete in the yard.

Good afternoon.

Let's go in order.

1. The vegetative layer must be removed, usually it is 30-50 cm. This is just enough for the entire "pie" of the blind area.

It will be useful for you to read our article on the device of a blind area in a private house.

In order for the blind area to be strong and durable, you need to properly tamp the soil. This can be done using a special rammer. The soil must be compacted around the house to a distance that corresponds to 1.5 times the length of the blind area itself.

Can install a curb, as it looks more advantageous and also serves as a limiter when arranging a blind area. You will have to compact crushed stone and sand many times, which will not work well without a strong curb.

For paving slabs, the layers will be as follows:

• Compacted soil.
• Crushed stone compacted every 10 cm (the layer is selected depending on the required level). The main material of such a layer can be crushed stone, gravel or ordinary yellow building sand of a coarse fraction. The thickness of the drainage layer depends on the finishing layer of the blind area. If paving slabs are used, then the thickness of one element is subtracted from the depth of the removed soil layer. Everything else fills up construction sand... As a rule, the thickness of this layer is about 25-35 cm.
• Concrete layer about 5 cm M100-150.
• Reinforcement mesh from reinforcement with a diameter of 4-6 mm. Concrete itself is not elastic, therefore, with frequent freezing and thawing, it cracks. The reinforcement absorbs all internal forces, keeping the concrete intact for many years. The reinforcement rods are laid approximately every 5-10 cm. It is best to make a grid with square cells from the rods, the side of which will be 100 mm.
• Concrete 5 cm.
• Roofing material in 2 layers with a slight overlap on the wall of the house (2-3 cm).
• Gartsovka, that is, a mixture of cement and sand, cement of the M-150 brand is mixed in a ratio of 1: 3 with sand.
• Tile.

2. It is difficult to advise on this point. If you are going to make a concrete base for a blind area, then the tile will fit the same for each zone. If it is just with sand or punching without concrete, then the tiles will sag from the loads and will need to be repositioned.

3. A slope is required for water drainage. The slope can be made even at the stage of arranging the drainage layer, which is important when using paving slabs. You can also make a slope during the formation of the finishing layer of concrete. The slope must have minimum value 1.5 percent, that is, approximately 8 mm for every half meter of the length of the blind area. This slope guarantees normal water drainage. For paving slabs, the difference is 5-10 cm per 1 m.

And also, so that the concrete does not constantly block up, the roofing material is laid in 2 layers on top of the concrete screed, and then the gartsovka. Roofing material will help keep concrete for longer.

As for the gutters. Around the perimeter of the blind area, it is advisable to make a concrete tray for water drainage; for these purposes, you can also use a sawn pipe laid on a concrete base or purchased gutters. They will receive water from the blind area and from the drainage system and flow to the side.

4. No, just a tile laid on the sand will not serve as a blind area, but with reinforced and waterproofed concrete base will.

5. An expansion joint is needed so that the blind area tape, changing its linear dimensions with temperature changes, can shift without accumulating internal stresses. MThere should always be a small gap of 1-2 cm between the blind area and the wall.It is better to fill it with ordinary sand or polystyrene. Often, a gasket of several layers of roofing material is made as such a gap. The overlap that I wrote about at the beginning will be enough.If there is no such seam, then the blind area, which is made of paving slabs, during frost will create an additional lateral load on the foundation or walls basement floor... This can lead to the destruction of their waterproofing.

It is important - the blind area is done only after all work on the facade of the building is completed. Such a strict requirement is connected, first of all, with the fact that the blind area should protrude beyond the edge of the facade at a certain distance (from 1 to 1.5 m), and the border of this edge can be set only after the complete finishing of the facade.The laid surface of paving slabs is thoroughly cleaned of dry mix residues and poured along expansion joints a little water.

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