PVC pipes have long been used for the manufacture of greenhouses and greenhouses, as this material is quite strong, flexible and reliable. You can make these products with your own hands, without resorting to the help of professionals. As collapsible, so stationary structure allows you to grow your favorite vegetables when it's freezing outside.

PVC pipes for the construction of a greenhouse: pros and cons

PVC pipes are excellent and inexpensive material, which is used to create greenhouses and greenhouses different forms and sizes. In order to build them, you do not need a large number tools and special skills, so this type of construction is available even for summer residents or owners of private houses with little income.

Material advantages

This material has many advantages:

• assembly and disassembly of the structure is quite fast;
• the disassembled structure does not take up much space;
• the construction of a greenhouse does not require professional skills in working with the material;
• light weight;
• availability of materials, their low cost;
• high degree of strength and stability of the finished structure;
• long service life (more than 10 years);
• the ability to create a greenhouse of any shape and size, monolithic structures;
• resistance to temperature extremes and moisture, the formation of corrosion, the growth of fungus and mold;
• environmental friendliness.

Disadvantages of PVC pipes and greenhouses from them

There are few disadvantages of greenhouses made of PVC pipes, but they are still there. For example, when installing a structure in regions where strong winds prevail, it can deform. The polyethylene coating is short-lived and also has poor thermal insulation properties, so you will have to change it every few years or purchase a more expensive material such as polycarbonate. In winter, it will be impossible to use such a structure in the northern regions of the country.

There are several types of greenhouses from PVC pipes that you can do with your own hands.

1. Arched structures with polyethylene or polycarbonate coating.
2. Structures with shed roof attached to the main building.
3. Greenhouses with gable roof with any type of coverage.

Arch-type greenhouses are very popular, since they are easily and quickly erected, quickly dismantled if necessary.

Preparation for construction: drawings, dimensions, assembly diagrams

For a greenhouse made of PVC pipes, a strong and expensive foundation is not needed, since it will lightweight construction that can be quickly disassembled. Therefore, the base can be made from wooden planks.

It is necessary to choose a suitable place on the site for placing the greenhouse, check the soil so that it does not sag under the weight of the future structure. Do not forget to remove excess debris and vegetation from the site, if necessary, remove part of the top layer of soil.

As a coating, a dense polyethylene film (better reinforced) is most often used.

Arched greenhouse dimensions

This parameter is determined not only depending on the preferences of the owner, but also on the size of the material itself.

Usually PVC pipes are sold in standard sizes (3 and 6 m). Longer ones when bent form a regular arc. Thus, the width of the standard design is 3.7 m, the length is 9.8 m, and the height is 2.1 m.

The optimum spacing between pipes is 900–1000 mm.

Choice of materials

The quality of the product also depends on the material used:

What materials and tools are needed

For the manufacture of a standard greenhouse, the following materials must be prepared:

• five-meter boards with a section of 2x6 cm - 4 pieces;
• boards with a section of 2x6 cm, each 3.7 m long - 2 pieces;
• PVC pipes 6 m long - 19 pieces;
• fittings 3 meters long (Ø10 mm) - 9 pieces;
• PVC film (thickness 6 mm) - 6x15, 24 meters;
• wooden slats (length 1.22 m) - 50 pieces;
• nails or screws;
• metal fasteners;
• door hinges - 4 pieces;
• door handles - 2 pieces.

Materials for the ends of the greenhouse:

• timber 2x4 cm, length 3.7 m for the frame;
• 11'8 3/4 "- 2 beams 3.6 m long;
• 1'6 "- 4 bars of 0.45m;
• 4'7 "- 4 bars of 1.4m;
• 5'7 "- 4 bars of 1.7m;
• 1'11 1/4 "- 8 bars of 0.6m;
• 4'1 / 4 "- 2 bars of 1.23 m;
• 4 bars 1.5 m long;
• 4 bars 1.2 m long.

Required tools:

• hammer;
• Bulgarian;
• electric screwdriver;
• hacksaw for metal;
• electric saw;
• building level;
• roulette.

DIY construction stages

Making a greenhouse with your own hands is very simple, you just need to follow the sequential instructions:

1. To arrange the base of the greenhouse, you need to cut the reinforcement into 4 parts. You should get 36 identical pieces of 75 cm long.To fasten the pipes, you will need 34 pieces of reinforcement. Cut two of them in half, resulting in 4 rods 37.5 cm long.
2. Next, from boards 2x6 cm in size, you need to make the base of the greenhouse rectangular size 3.7x9.8 m. Knock down the boards with nails or twist with self-tapping screws. Install the base on the site. Check the evenness of the corners (90 °), inside each of them hammer in a piece of reinforcement (37.5 cm) for fastening the structure.
3. Hammer 34 pieces of reinforcement at the same distance from each other (about 1 meter) along the long sides of the base. This should be done in such a way that the length of the rods on the surface is about 35–40 cm.
4. On the reinforcement rods driven in from both sides, put PVC pipes alternately, bending them into the correct arc. You should get an almost finished greenhouse frame.
5. Fix the pipes to the wooden base with metal plates. For this, self-tapping screws and a screwdriver are used.
6. In order to make the end part of the greenhouse, it is necessary to make a frame of beams. Install them in the frame of the structure, fix them with screws.
7. Cut 4 pieces of 70 cm from a bar with a hacksaw. Saw one end of each of them at an angle of 45 °. They are necessary to strengthen the ends of the greenhouse. Fasten the frame of the side part with the base.
8. After the frame is assembled, it is necessary to make a stiffener at the top of the structure. To do this, fasten 2 pipes with a special plastic connector, cut off the excess so that a total length of 9.8 m is obtained. On top of the frame in the center, attach the pipe with plastic ties to each of the 17 arcs.
9. Cover the pipe frame with a dense polyethylene film with an overlap at the bottom. Then, on one of the long sides, secure it firmly using pieces of wooden battens.
10. Pull it with a little effort on the frame, fasten it on the other side. It is better to start doing this from the center, and then move on to the ends.
11. On the end parts of the frame, the film must be pulled down well. Nail it to the base wooden slats... In the place where the door will be located, you need to cut out a square, leaving allowances of 5-10 cm for fastening the frame. Carefully wrap the film behind the opening, secure with nails or self-tapping screws inside the greenhouse.
12. Before installing the door, it is necessary to carefully check the actual dimensions of the opening so that it fits exactly in size. For its device, you need to saw bars with a cross section of 2x4 cm different sizes(4 pieces each with a length of 1.5 m and 1.2 m). Knock down two frames from them, fix the beam diagonally for greater structural rigidity. Screw the door hinges to the opening with self-tapping screws.
13. The remaining foil can be used for doors. To do this, pull it over two frames, then also attach it with wooden slats. Screw on the handles and hinges. Put the doors on the prepared fasteners, check the evenness of the installation so that there are no distortions and large gaps.

The second version of the device of the ends of the greenhouse

There is another way to make the ends of the structure:

If you are making a greenhouse for the first time, then it is recommended to heed the advice of experts:

1. In order for the greenhouse to be effective, it is necessary to choose a place in the area with the maximum amount of sunlight. It is also important to consider what crops will be grown, to ask about the necessary rapid growth conditions.
2. For the construction of an arched structure, it is best to choose flexible pipes PVC.
3. It is best to stretch the plastic wrap over the greenhouse frame during the warm season.
4. If it is too hot outside, then the greenhouse doors should be kept open to ventilate the room. V otherwise condensate will collect under the film and turn into steam.
5. In the northern regions of the country, it is best to remove polyethylene for the winter, since during the period of heavy snowfalls, it can stretch or tear. In addition, the snow will reliably protect the soil from deep freezing, as a result of which all useful material and moisture.
6. If the film remains for the winter, then it is necessary to put strong supports that will not let the structure fall.
7. Instead of polyethylene film for covering the frame, you can buy more modern and reliable materials eg lutrasil, agrospan, reinforced or bubble wrap.
8. Light-stabilized or reinforced polypropylene is one of the the best coatings, since it does not deform under the influence of ultraviolet rays.
9. It is recommended to close the area under the greenhouse waterproofing film, on which then pour a special soil with fertilizer. Thus, plants can be protected from external influence and protect them from pests.
10. If you make a base of concrete, then you can grow seedlings in boxes.
11. It must be remembered that the service life of PVC pipes in the open air is significantly reduced (up to 15–20 years).
12. All wooden elements of the greenhouse must be well processed antiseptic agents so that they are not exposed to mold and mildew.

Video: how to quickly build a greenhouse from PVC pipes

A greenhouse made of PVC pipes of light construction will allow you to always have a maximum of fresh vegetables and herbs on your table. The construction costs of such a structure will be minimal, and the degree of its efficiency will be maximal. Having bought several plastic pipes, wooden boards and plastic wrap in one or two days, you can independently build a convenient and reliable greenhouse at your summer cottage.

In the design of pipelines, polyvinyl chloride pipes are increasingly used, which have replaced heavy and bulky metal pipes. They have been widespread for a long period - ever since the polymer appeared and began to be widely used in construction works... Pipes made of this material are applicable for the installation of not only cold water supply systems, but also hot water systems. They are used to create technological systems, are used in the creation of sewer systems, and in addition, are used in food industry... We offer to discuss the installation of PVC pipes with your own hands.

Features of PVC pipes

PVC pipes are common in the construction of outdoor pipelines and in the construction of hidden ones. If this is an outdoor lining, then such a system looks aesthetically pleasing and neat. In addition, this design stands out for its favorable price. Polyvinyl chloride is not only the cheapest polymer. Its cost is much lower than the cost of galvanized steel plates, which explains the low cost of such a pipeline.

PVC pipes have a number of advantages that distinguish them from other materials:

• Ease.
• Long service life. They last much longer than metal ones.
• Corrosion resistant.
• Resistant to temperature extremes.
• Good cross-country ability.
• High sound insulation.

No need for special tools. The method of "cold welding" is used.

PVC is very tough, so special fittings are used when working with such pipes. This property makes them look like steel, which means that when installing them, calculations for steel systems can be involved.

Most European water pipes are made of PVC pipes. Increasingly, such pipes began to displace metal in domestic production. Their popularity is growing every year.

Installation of PVC pipelines

Such pipelines are reliable and lightweight. It is very easy to do the installation of PVC pipes with your own hands. In this case, you should use the following tools:

• Sandpaper.
• Pipe shears.
• Glue.
• Primer.
• Brushes for applying glue.

The gluing process is carried out using aggressive adhesives and does not require additional equipment. This process is based on the dissolution of the surface layer of the elements to be joined with glue. There is an interpenetration of parts into each other on molecular level... As a result, a single monolithic robust construction is obtained.

Before starting gluing, check the dimensions and resort to the so-called "dry" connection.

It is important that the pipe slides freely into the socket of the fitting.

If necessary, the pipes can be cut. To do this, use special scissors or a roller cutter. If there are no such tools, you can resort to using a hacksaw for metal. Pipes are cut in such a way that a right angle is maintained relative to the axis.

Next, a special knife is used to remove the chamfer from the ends of the pipes. You can file the ends with a file. The treated pipe ends should be cleaned of dirt and sawdust and then degreased. It is desirable to blow through the pipe.

Starting to glue all the elements of the pipeline system, it is necessary to cover the parts to be joined with a special cleaner - primer. This will remove any remaining dirt from the surface and soften the plastic, which in turn will improve the penetration of the adhesive.

The glue is applied both to the pipe and to the socket of the fitting. The layer should be thin. The pipe must be inserted into the socket as far as it will go and turned ¼ so that the adhesive can be evenly distributed over the surface of the parts to be joined. The gluing time is no more than a minute.

After connecting, the elements must be held for 30 seconds. This is necessary so that the pipe is fixed and does not slip out of the connecting piece.

If everything is done correctly, then an even layer of adhesive will appear at the junction of the pipe and fitting. This is called a "bandage" and is removed with a clean cloth.

When working with PVC pipes and fittings (fittings), it is recommended to use the adhesive specified by the manufacturer.

In the case of using adhesives of other brands, there is no guarantee that the connection will be tight and strong.

When installing a pipeline, parts of which exceed 50 mm in diameter, a special tightening device should be used.

There is no shortage of adhesive today. Manufacturers have specially developed and produced a quick-drying adhesive for gluing PVC pipes. This substance does not require additional use of a primer to clean the pipe surface.

Video

This technology is clearly shown in this video.

There are a lot of ways to create such a thing as onions from PVC pipes; on the Internet you can find the most sophisticated ways, but first of all, I want the manufacturing process to be simple, convenient and not troublesome, including not taking much time and effort. These are the methods that are worth getting to know. Consider the three simplest and most understandable ways to make a bow yourself.

Method number 1.

Using the first method, it is quite possible to make an interesting bow, the design of which cannot be disassembled. Compared to the many tips and concepts for the manufacturing process, this is perhaps the easiest option. The main nuance in creating a bow is the presence construction equipment such as a hair dryer.

For the manufacturing process, you need to arm yourself:

1. A PVC pipe with a length of about one and a half meters and a diameter of about 2.5 cm.

2. Technical device hairdryer.

3. Narrow hand saw, felt-tip pen and measuring tape.

4. One long piece of wood and two pieces about 80 cm long.

5. Instrument for the drilling process with a metal rod and aluminum paper (see).

6. Coloring agent for decorative properties.

7. Scotch tape and gloves of any kind.

So, at the initial stage of making the onion, it is necessary to mark the PVC pipe. With the help of a measuring tape, it is necessary to measure a section with a length of 30 cm and 60 cm from two ends of the pipe, followed by a marking. For these purposes, for the convenience of the process, you need to use a bright-colored felt-tip pen. Further, it is necessary to determine the center point of the pipe with maximum accuracy, for this you need to measure 75 cm from either end of the pipe. Fix the mark with a felt-tip pen. Then, to determine the area that will be diverted under the handle, you need to measure 8 cm in both opposite directions from the central point. Naturally, fix the marks with a felt-tip pen.

The next stage in the manufacture of onions involves the creation of deformation of the PVC pipe. For this, for the sake of convenience, it is necessary to create an auxiliary element that will help warm up the pipe. A piece of aluminum paper must be bent so that two perpendicular planes are formed. Simply put, create a 90 degree angle formation.

Further, the very process of deformation and bending occurs. To achieve what you need, you need to take a PVC pipe and close one end of it with a corner foil element. Showing care and accuracy, focusing on the marking of the pipe, you need to heat the section of the pipe, which is located at a fixed point of 30 cm.Using a technical hairdryer in this matter, the heating process will pass quickly and without problems. It must be taken into account to obtain good result, it is necessary to try to heat the entire intended section of the pipe with uniform movements. When heating, you need to turn the pipe.

Non-collapsible PVC Pipe Bow - Step 4

After it is visually visible that the pipe section has become soft, to ensure that it does not lose the desired temperature and simply does not cool down, you need to wrap it in aluminum paper... Wasting no time to prevent cooling, you need to do all the same steps with the other end of the pipe. If it becomes visually noticeable and sensitive to the touch that the first heated section of the pipe has begun to cool down, it is imperative to heat it additionally, resorting to the help of the same technical hair dryer.

It is very important to understand that in the process of heating a PVC pipe, you must try to prevent the pipe surface from becoming covered with bubbles, black bloom or losing its color. Otherwise, this will indicate that the heating process has occurred too quickly and unevenly.

After dividing the end part of the pipe into equal parts, followed by marking with a felt-tip pen, it is necessary to draw a line from the center point of the pipe to one of the edges of the deformed end. The correct tilt is the position inside the bow from the bottom up.

Having departed from each of the ends of the pipe a distance of 3 cm, you need to fix it with a marker and draw the rounding of the ends of the future bow. According to the drawn rounded line, you need to cut off all unnecessary. By analogy with the process with the second end of the pipe, do the same.

To hide ugly cuts using a technical hair dryer, you need to warm them up and, after they become elastic enough, bend the edges of the pipe into inner part future bow. The other end must be handled in the same way. Alternatively, the cuts and their edges can be refined with abrasive paper.

In order for the transition section between the deformed edges and the base of the bow to be smoother, it is necessary to warm up the transition section slowly enough, focusing on the 30 cm mark and about 4 cm on both sides. In the process of heating the pipe, it should gradually expand and the transition section will become smooth by itself. This time can be used (while the area is warmed up) to create a bend at the ends of the product. With respect to the base of the bow, the curves should protrude forward. In the same way, it is necessary to create a bend at the second end of the pipe. As a result, at the end of this stage, you should get a flat pipe with the presence of the ends bent forward.

Next, you need to warm up the pipe section from the 30 cm mark to the starting line of the handle. After the procedure, you need to perform a bend during inner side onions and let cool. Repeat the procedure on the opposite side. As a result, the features of the future bow should begin to be seen.

And at the final stage, it is necessary to bend the handle. This process is necessary for the convenience of using the bow. According to the already familiar principle, it is necessary to warm up the area allocated for the handle with a technical hairdryer and clamp it between the legs, creating an ellipse for it. The tapered portions of the ellipse should be perpendicular to the person holding the bow. At the same time, you need to raise the opposite parts of the bow, while having achieved a change in the position of the handle, it should bend into the inner plane of the bow.

We complete the production of onions with the process of creating places for a tight stretch of nylon thread or twine. Having retreated from each end of the bow about 2 mm and from the front part about 1 cm, in the marked mark it is necessary to make the corresponding holes with a drill. The holes should be about 5 mm in diameter. After that, with a special saw, it is necessary to cut a groove at an angle, located from the edge of the bow to the drilled hole. Naturally, at the other end of the bow it is necessary to repeat the process.

To make the bow beautiful appearance, with the help of dyes, you need to apply a layer of them to the surface of the onion, thereby decorating it. You need to choose the color according to your desires. If you slightly sand the surface of the onion with a sandpaper before applying the paint, you can ensure the ease and quality of applying the coloring texture. With tape or another, you need to wrap the ends of the bow (focusing on the 30 cm mark) and the section under the arm.

Now you can use your hand-made product.

Method number 2.

As already became clear, this place will be intended for the handle. We must not forget that all sizes are approximate, if the palm is much larger, then the markings should be carried out, taking into account the size of the person's palm. Otherwise, it will be simply uncomfortable to hold the bow.

With construction equipment, heat one side of the pipe from the starting line of the handle to the very end. After the PVC pipe has become softened and flexible, you need to lay it in a pre-created structure of boards.

In the case of using a polypropylene pipe, the boards will not help create a clamp and deform it. In this case, in addition to the boards, you need to use more rigid and durable materials and devices, for example, iron corners and a tool with which you can clamp the pipe. After clamping one part of the pipe, it is necessary to bend it. All these actions must be done with the second part of the future bow.

Next, you need to start forming the handle. Protecting your hands with gloves or any rag, after warming up the desired part, you need to create a comfortable place in which to hold the bow. In the case of using polypropylene pipes, to create the handle, it is necessary to repeat the steps using more rigid tools. You need to try not to overdo it, flatten quite a bit.

Then it is necessary to measure a 15 cm long section from each end of the pipe.Using any tin can, you need to put one end with the measured point on it so that the point defining the 15 cm segment is located strictly in its center. From this point on, you can start working with a technical hairdryer, bringing the pipe to flexibility. Having brought to the desired state, the softened segment must be twisted around the circumference of the container.

It is important to note that you need to be careful and not overdo it. In case of severe overheating of a polyvinyl chloride product, it will begin to change color, turn yellow and lose its quality properties. If you overheat a polypropylene pipe, it simply spreads out.

When constructing a fastener for a tension thread, you need to cut double-sided grooves at the ends, while controlling the depth. Do not make them pass-through. The same rope made of polypropylene and nylon is suitable as a bowstring. Alternatively, you can try cotton. If there is any other rope available that does not have the ability to stretch, feel free to use it.

Prefabricated wooden narrow slats are available for making bow arrows. To support the arrow, it is recommended to use a natural feather, when fired it does not injure the hand. The length of the slats must be chosen so that when the product is pulled, it is enough. To prevent the arrows from sliding along the thread, you need to cut grooves at their ends. To ensure good penetration into objects, the opposite ends of the arrows must be well sharpened and veiled with hard material. Now you can enjoy it.

All three methods of making onions from PVC pipes have been considered, and the choice of the simplest and most convenient is only yours.

A greenhouse on a suburban area is not only its decoration, but also allows you to get a harvest of environmentally friendly vegetables for the whole family.

To achieve this goal, a self-built PVC greenhouse is ideal. The standard designs offered by the market are not always suitable for the site in terms of size and shape.

One of the popular ways to arrange this simple structure is to make it yourself. For this are used various materials, designs, installation methods.

Don't need a greenhouse? We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the article -.

Types of greenhouses

Indoor devices can vary significantly from one another. It depends on many factors, including the shape of the structure, materials for its manufacture, seasonality of use, the presence of heating and its type.

When using PVC pipes, the following designs are usually suitable:

• wall-mounted - the structure is adjacent to one or two walls of a building, residential or technical;
• greenhouse with two slopes in the shape of a house;
• polygonal with a sloping roof;
• arched - with a rounded dome.

Wall buildings

They are usually installed against a wall on the southwest or south side of the building. In this case, it is, as it were, a thermal energy accumulator, heating up during the day and giving it off during the cool night time.

This allows you to smooth out daily temperature fluctuations, which has a beneficial effect on plants.

The disadvantage of such greenhouses is the constant effect of the high humidity of the internal atmosphere on the wall, which can contribute to its premature destruction.

This can be avoided by plastering the surface and painting it with waterproof paint. To fasten the frame of the greenhouse to the wall, you can use tubular brackets in the form of a glass.

The inner dimension of the pipe must match the outer diameter plastic pipe frame so that it can freely enter it. The connection must be fixed with a screw perpendicular to its axis. The metal bracket needs to be painted to resist corrosion.

As a cover for such a greenhouse, it is advisable use monolithic polycarbonate... It is transparent, which makes the building an additional decoration for the exterior of the site.

Gable types

This is the most common form for indoor installations. The popularity is due to the simple form of the frame, which can be made by hand using standard PVC pipes and fittings.

Such a frame is strong, durable and sufficiently resistant to wind and snow influences. Such frames provide a low reflection coefficient, and this contributes to optimal heating of a PVC greenhouse under the influence of sunlight.

If you install the ramp under more acute angle, it is possible to achieve an arbitrary descent of snow masses from the roof, which makes it possible to get rid of the need for periodic cleaning in winter.

But this is only possible on a hard surface that does not bend under load. This property is possessed by window glass or cellular polycarbonate.

Gable greenhouses are equipped with doors and vents for ventilation. Warm humid air is released through them, which accumulates under the roof.

If the side walls of such a greenhouse are installed with a slope, the illumination in the morning and evening hours will be higher. This complicates the design somewhat, but in middle latitudes such a decision will be justified.

Arched structures

Without a doubt, they are the most popular forms of indoor construction. The design is robust, good stability and outrageously easy to install. In addition, the preparation of the site for its installation does not require difficult decisions.

Thanks to the use of lightweight PVC pipes, the frame of the greenhouse is light enough that it can be moved to another place without disassembly, which improves the possibility of optimizing crop rotation.

The versatility of the material allows you to choose any size and configuration of the structure.

The arched shape of the greenhouse is demanding for its location in space. The structure must be oriented its axis from south to north... In this case, the maximum amount of sunlight will take place in the morning and evening hours.

In the daytime, the dome part of the greenhouse is most strongly illuminated, where the refraction of the rays is not so significant.

Dome buildings made of PVC pipes

This design can be considered an arched version. This shape ensures the smooth flow of snow from the blood, which facilitates maintenance in winter.

In addition, this shape is better suited for growing tall plants. Ventilation in domed greenhouse significantly more efficient given the reduction in space at the top of the building.

It is not difficult to make a greenhouse from PVC pipes with your own hands, since during installation, proven assembly technologies are used as for plumbing systems. This uses the same fittings.

Site selection and site preparation

The efficiency of its use largely depends on the choice of the location of the greenhouse. We have already pointed out the importance of orientation in relation to the cardinal points. But it is also important that it is in a well-lit place, not being darkened by bushes or trees growing nearby.

In addition, the site on which the structure of PVC pipes is installed must stand on a strictly horizontal site. The durability of the structure depends on this. If it becomes skewed, conditions are created for the displacement of the polycarbonate or glass coating, which may be followed by its destruction.

With the size of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes up to 6 meters in length, it can be installed on a base made of wooden beam... It should be placed on a level surface since autumn, and in the spring it should be additionally checked for horizontalness and compliance with the shape.

As a rule, this is a rectangle and it is enough to achieve equality of the diagonals. After performing this operation, the base must be additionally fixed to the ground with anchors.

When installing a wooden base under it, you need to pour a drainage layer of sand and gravel mixture with a thickness of 10-15 centimeters. This will allow you to more actively drain excess water from under the greenhouse.

To install a greenhouse from a PVC pipe with a length of more than 6 meters, it is preferable to use capital strip foundation ... This is especially important for soils subject to seasonal swelling.

Calculation of the need for materials for a greenhouse made of PVC pipes + drawings

To determine the amount of materials, it is necessary to develop a drawing of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes for do-it-yourself manufacturing.

In order not to perform tedious calculations for each part separately, it is better to use graph paper to complete the drawing. This will allow, with a certain scrupulousness of execution, to obtain the true dimensions by measurements. With this method of execution, the accuracy is sufficient to carry out the calculation.

It should be borne in mind that all molded materials are produced in standard lengths. Therefore, when designing, it is necessary to take into account the possibility of their rational cutting in order to avoid unnecessary waste.

Standard sizes some materials:

1. Pipes PVC size 20-25 millimeters are produced in lengths of 1, 2, 3 and 6 meters.
2. Timber beams conifers- 4 or 6 meters;
3. Cellular polycarbonate with a thickness of 4, 6, 8 millimeters is produced in sheets with a width of 2.05 with a length of 4, 6 or 12 meters.
4. Polyethylene film with a thickness of 90-200 microns is sold in rolls, the width is from 1 to 3 meters. Welding in width is allowed during installation. A home iron and aluminum foil are enough for this.

The distance between the arches of the greenhouse made of PVC pipes is selected depending on the coating material. For film, it should be 0.7-0.75 meters.

If the coating is made with polycarbonate with sheets overlapping by 10-12 centimeters, then it is necessary to provide for each sheet a support for at least 3 arches, that is, the distance between them should be: (2.05 - 0.1): 2 = 0 , 97 meters. The number of sheets is determined by the specified length of the greenhouse.

The amount of materials for the end walls is calculated separately. Basic structure It is made of a wooden block with a size of 50 x 50 millimeters and is sewn with the material of the main covering using strips 15-20 millimeters thick.

The design of the end walls should include doorway width of about 90 centimeters with a height of 1.8-2.0 meters, so that it is convenient to use a garden wheelbarrow. A window must be provided in the upper part of the end wall.

If polycarbonate is used for the coating, it is fastened in two ways:

1. By applying a screed across the greenhouse body. This part is made of galvanized steel strip with a width of at least 40 millimeters with a thickness of 0.7-1.0. The length of the strips should exceed the outline of the frame by approximately 0.5-0.7 meters, which are needed to form the clamp. The tension is made with an M10 hairpin, the length of which is 20-25 centimeters, using two nuts with washers.
2. Fastening to the arches with plunging screws with special compensating washers with an installation pitch of 250-300 millimeters.

To install doors and vents, you will need awnings, 2 pieces for each detail. Below are drawings of various frame options with dimensions.

Connecting pipes and fittings when assembling a greenhouse

To assemble the greenhouse, PVC pressure pipes and corresponding fittings are used - couplings, angles, tees and crosses.

When a set of parts is selected, they must be checked for compatibility. A normal fitting should slide over the pipe by immersing at least 2/3 of its own length.

Adhesive bonding

Adhesives for PVC, this material is contained as the main component, diluted with a special solvent, which keeps it in a fluid state. Additives are also used as additives different kinds to improve adhesion and give the composition the desired consistency.

After applying the glue to the parts, long chains of PVC molecules are mixed, and as a result of the evaporation of solvents, the mass thickens. The material of both parts is mixed to form a solid, solid assembly.

When purchasing glue for PVC, you need to carefully read the instructions for use, which contains instructions on how to prepare for gluing and correct conduct process.

At room temperature the setting time of the glue is about 4 minutes. At 40 degrees, it shrinks to one minute.

The life-size part is cut from the pipe with special scissors. They are designed in such a way that they do not leave burrs at the end.

Watch the video

Cutting can be done with any fine-toothed saw (metal hacksaw), but after that you need to carefully remove burrs, which can adversely affect the alignment of parts during gluing.

Before gluing the surface, the parts to be joined must be prepared in a special way. The main goal is to degrease. Bonding can be done outdoors, weather permitting. At the same time, the air temperature should be within 5-35 degrees.

It is important to remember that the brush for applying the glue mass must be made of natural bristles, otherwise synthetic material will also dissolve and this may damage the strength of the bond. Adhesives manufacturers often include a brush in their delivery.

The parts are glued in the following order:

1. Try on the pipe and fitting for compliance. Mark with a marker the boundaries of the glue application.
2. Remove burrs and rough damage from parts.
3. Degrease the surfaces to be glued.
4. Apply glue with a special brush.
5. Align the parts by sliding the fitting onto the pipe. Rotate the parts at an angle of about 90 degrees and set in the desired position. This operation should ensure that the adhesive is evenly distributed over the surfaces.
6. Parts must be held firmly for 15-20 seconds.
7. Depending on the ambient temperature, the drying and final setting time of the glue will be up to 4 minutes.
8. Excess adhesive mass from the surface of the parts must be removed with a rag.
9. The glued parts cannot be moved within 15-20 minutes.

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When gluing PVC parts, the following defects may occur:

1. Partial non-adhesion occurs when glue is applied unevenly and when there are rough damages on the surface of parts. In addition, an overdried layer of glue can lead - the time after application to the alignment of parts is no more than 12-15 seconds.
2. When working in conditions of minimum permissible temperatures, it can lead to soft non-adhesion, which indicates insufficient polymerisation of the adhesive.
3. A porous adhesive layer is formed when the adhesive is applied unevenly. The reasons for this can be contamination in the bonding area, poor mixing of the adhesive mass before application, involuntary displacement during drying.

Gluing is the main assembly method. However, when erecting greenhouse frames, there is no need for tightness of the joints. Therefore, when performing such work, an assembly method using metal fasteners is often used.

Assembly of the frame made of PVC pipes with screws

The nature of the loading of the elements of the greenhouse frame made of PVC pipes allows its assembly using fasteners. This method even simplifies the assembly process. The sloping surface is not an obstacle to drilling, if you use the simplest jig.

On-site drilling may be required during installation. This is not a problem with PVC pipes. V the right place it is enough to leave a deep mark, which is easily made with a sharpened triangular pin made of any metal. This will prevent the drill from sliding sideways on a sloping surface.

To assemble the greenhouse, it is enough to use standard M6 bolts with a convenient head shape. To install them, you need holes with a diameter of 6.5 millimeters. Along with the bolt, you will need an appropriate nut, a standard washer and a spring washer - a spring washer. Care must be taken when tightening - PVC pipe does not have high compressive strength.

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Self-pouring the foundation

A support base for a greenhouse is as necessary as for any other structure. Only in this case it works a little differently.

The greenhouse itself, especially made of light PVC pipes, has a low weight and high windage. If it is not well strengthened, it may well go "for a walk" in neighboring areas.

Watch the video - the advantages of a concrete foundation

How can you arrange a foundation for a greenhouse:

1. A support base made of wooden beams is installed if it is planned to keep the greenhouse in this place for 2-3 years. However, you can, without displacing this structure, just replace wooden base.

For it, a bar of 150x50 or 120x100 millimeters is used. Before laying it, you need to level the area and remove the sod from the locations of the support base.

It is necessary to arrange a drainage layer of a mixture of sand and gravel with a thickness of 120-15 centimeters. On top of the drainage, lay a waterproofing of roofing material in one or two layers.

Lay the timber along the contour of the frame. Check the resulting rectangle for equality of diagonals, fasten the sides together. Before laying, the material must be treated with an antiseptic, this will increase its service life.

It should be noted that treatment with antiseptics does not guarantee a long service life of the greenhouse; it will either have to be transferred after a few years, or the support must be changed.

Fastening the base to the ground can be done different ways... Most often, rebar trims 80-90 centimeters long are used, driven into the ground. But screw anchors are more reliable. It is more expensive but more reliable.

A layer is poured over it concrete mortar, into which the first corner block is installed. It must be carefully placed on the horizon using a building level. Then pull the cords and lay the rest of the blocks along them around the perimeter. Setting time masonry mortar is about 7 days, after which you can continue to work on installing the frame of the greenhouse made of PVC pipes with your own hands.

1. Brick foundation on concrete base installed in the presence of loose soils on the site. To support the greenhouse, you need to open a trench in the ground 40 centimeters deep and 20 inches wide. On its bottom you need to make a drainage layer 15-20 centimeters thick. It needs to be tamped down and spilled with water for a better seal. Install the reinforcement in the amount of two cores 5 centimeters from the bedding, using supports made of broken bricks. It is advisable to install the formwork by leveling its upper edge horizontally.

Pour concrete in one go, continuously. In this case, it is necessary to install the M12 anchor bolts at a distance of no more than 1.5 meters from one another.

After the concrete has completely hardened, put brick belt in two bricks around the perimeter.

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After a week, you can start installing the greenhouse frame.

Other methods of making a foundation for a greenhouse using other materials are also used. Their choice most often depends on the availability and type of remnants from the main construction on the site.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a greenhouse frame

Greenhouse kits different sizes sold in construction markets. The accompanying instructions give a complete overview of how to assemble and install them.

But their designs and dimensions do not always satisfy the buyer in accordance with the installation site. Then greenhouses made of PVC pipes of the required sizes are made by hand.

But the basic assembly and installation techniques do not depend on this, since the components are the same.

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During assembly, the following connecting elements are used:

1. A glass is a plastic product with an inner diameter corresponding to the outer dimension of the pipe. Attached to the base with a self-tapping screw through the bottom. The end of the arch is inserted into the hole and fixed with a screw.
2. The tee is a three-hole connector. When assembling the arch, perpendicular coaxial holes are used, intended for the installation of longitudinal ribs during the installation of the frame. Used only for making extreme arches.
3. The crosspiece is used for the same purpose when installing intermediate arches, to which the longitudinal ribs are brought from both sides.

Fastening of mating parts can be done with glue or screws. The second method is more often used, since greenhouses are installed, as a rule, in early spring when the outside temperature may not be sufficient for a reliable adhesive bond.

When installing the greenhouse directly on the ground, the arches can be installed on pins.

For the manufacture of pins, reinforcing steel is used, the diameter of which is selected depending on the internal size of the pipes used for the frame. Their length is 0.6-0.8 meters, they are driven into the ground to a depth of about half a meter.

After installing all the arches, boards are installed around the perimeter of the frame. wooden box... Their size is 40-50x120-150 millimeters. Fastening is done directly to the arches using a metal strip with self-tapping screws.

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Installing the frame on a prepared base is practically no different from the described procedure for greenhouses made of PVC pipes when installing on the ground.

Greenhouse door installation

For a normal greenhouse, two doors are needed, which are installed on both end walls. Their main purpose is to provide convenient maintenance of the internal space of the structure.

Therefore, the width of the opening must be at least 90 centimeters, which allows the free passage of the garden wheelbarrow. In this case, the height should be about 1.8-2.0 meters.

In addition, the passage device must be tight enough to maintain the microclimate at night.

In addition to the doors in the greenhouse, several vents for airing the room... They are needed to remove warm humid air that collects at the top of the building and is harmful to seedlings and greenhouse plants.

For the manufacture of the door, a wooden block with a size of 50x50 millimeters is used. The rectangular door frame is divided by a cross member. An indispensable element is a jib, which gives rigidity to the structure. The joints of the parts are additionally reinforced with corners made of galvanized steel.

The door leaf is made of the same material as the main covering of the greenhouse - film, polycarbonate or window glass.

Watch the video - door installation

Installation of the door to the place of application is carried out using standard door canopies in the amount of two pieces.

The doorway on the end walls is formed during the manufacture of their skin. For this, wooden blocks are most often used, even if the main frame material is a PVC pipe.

Installation of cover - polyethylene film or monolithic polycarbonate

To separate the room from the outer space, it is done in several ways:

• installation of cellular or monolithic polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 - 8 millimeters;
• covering plastic wrap thickness 90-200 microns.

It should be noted that the use of the film is several times cheaper, but it has to be changed, as a rule, annually.

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But polycarbonate, if it is of high quality (you need to beware of Chinese fakes), can last up to seven years, after which the material begins to cloud due to wear on the outer surface.

Before installing the polycarbonate sheets on the upper ends of the arches, you need to install the self-adhesive sealing tape.

The sheet is installed in such a way that the internal cavities are vertical. At the same time, there is no accumulation of moisture in the voids.

For installation, special fasteners are used, taking into account the properties of the material, for work with which only a standard tool is needed.

Watch video - installation and fastening of polycarbonate

A thermal washer and an elastic O-ring are installed under the screw, and its head is protected by a cap. It should be remembered that this material has an increased coefficient of thermal linear expansion. Therefore, the screw hole should be 1.0-1.5 millimeters larger diameter screw.

The distance between the fastening screws should be no more than 400 millimeters.

The joints and abutments of the polycarbonate coating are made using additional elements.

The procedure for installing polycarbonate is as follows:

1. The end walls of the greenhouse are sewn up with a sheet.
2. Excess parts are cut out along the generatrix of the frame. To do this, you can use an ordinary construction knife.
3. Doors and vents are cut out.
4. The first polycarbonate sheet is applied and attached. In this case, you need to perform an overhang of 8-10 centimeters.
5. Further, the remaining sheets are sequentially superimposed and attached.

Installation of the film coating is carried out in the following order:

1. The end walls of the greenhouse are sheathed with foil. At the same time, at the edges of the door and window openings, it is fastened with strips of 15-20x40 millimeters and nails 60-70 long.
2. The film is attached along the generatrix of the frame construction stapler as a temporary measure.
3. The film is installed over the frame after sealing the ends. It is positioned in such a way that an overlap remains on the lower wooden base, to which they are attached with strips. If the greenhouse is installed directly on the ground, the edges must be tucked under the base of the frame and covered with earth.
4. The edges of the film are wrapped on the end sides and fastened with strips together with the previously installed film on the end wall.

Pros and cons of PVC

The material has a number of positive qualities consisting of the following:

1. Quick and easy assembly and disassembly of structures.
2. The disassembled structure takes up little space and is lightweight.
3. The construction of a greenhouse from this material does not require possession of special skills or abilities and is available for construction with your own hands.
4. Availability and low cost of materials for the construction of a greenhouse.
5. High strength and resistance to external factors.
6. The service life of the PVC frame is estimated at at least 10 years.

Even with a strong desire, it is not easy to find pronounced flaws in the design of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes. It is believed that it is dangerous to place them in a region with strong winds.

But this applies equally to any material. And there is only one solution - the installation of additional guy wires and stiffeners. For durability, it is also not recommended to use in such conditions soft material to cover.

Recordings

PVC pipes are practical material, which can easily serve to create a greenhouse. The construction of such a structure on a garden plot involves following the work technology, which must be familiarized with.

Greenhouse made of PVC pipes: the pros and cons of the material

PVC is a good material for water supply pipes. The products are distinguished by their efficiency, but their universal use is especially noteworthy. PVC elements are often used to create greenhouses on garden plots... This is due to the characteristics of the material.

PVC pipes have a number of advantages over other materials. This is due to the fact that PVC products do not rot, like wood, and do not corrode, like metal. The main advantages of PVC pipes for greenhouses are as follows:

• light weight of the material;
• simple installation technology;
• the ability to create any forms;
• durability and low cost;
• no need to paint the frame;
• easy assembly and simple disassembly of the pipe structure.

PVC products also have disadvantages. The significant lightness of the PVC frame elements requires the organization of high-quality fixing of the base, arrangement of the foundation. Otherwise, the greenhouse will be unstable, and with sharp gusts of wind, the risk of deformation of the structure increases. And also the negative features of the pipe when used for a greenhouse are expressed in a lower service life than when using metal profiles.

Greenhouse dimensions and drawings

Before creating a shelter for growing horticultural crops you need to create a drawing. The required dimensions of the structure are pre-determined. Depending on the type of plant, the height and shape of the frame are selected. An arched version is in demand, which involves the installation of arches from pipes. A mini greenhouse can also be made from PVC elements, but it is worth providing solid foundation, because the structure can be damaged by strong wind.

Arches can be angular or semicircular. The first option requires a more careful calculation of the parameters, that is, the length of each element. For a semicircular greenhouse, you need to calculate the length of one arch, taking into account its required height. For this, the width of the structure is also taken into account. For example, with a greenhouse width of 3.5 m, you will need arches, the length of which is 5.5 m. The height of the structure will be about 1 m, but it is important to take into account the dimensions of the plants that will be grown inside.

A small greenhouse, the length of which does not exceed 3 m, does not require the creation of a foundation, but a light wooden frame will provide reliable fixation of the pipes. For a greenhouse-greenhouse, a drawing is needed, as well as the correct development of the design of doors and vents. In this case, the distance between arches or posts should not be less than 80 cm.

Material selection

To create a reliable greenhouse, only high-quality materials are needed. PVC pipes, fittings, frame elements should not have cracks, signs of decay and corrosion, deformation. Otherwise, the arches and base of the greenhouse will not be strong enough, and it is impossible to create a large shelter for plants from such material. The work on the construction of a greenhouse involves the following materials:

• PVC pipes with a diameter of at least 2.5 cm. The elements must first be cut into parts according to the required dimensions;
• self-tapping screws with a length of 20 mm in an amount of more than 100 pieces;
• clamps for fixing the greenhouse film;
• fittings and tees for connecting pipes;
• dense film or agricultural cloth for a greenhouse;
• steel rods, wooden boards 50x100 mm.

PVC pipes with a diameter of less than 2.5 cm can be used in the construction of a greenhouse to create short slats or crossbars. You cannot make a base from such a material for which durable products are optimal. When choosing pipes, you should pay attention to the wall thickness. Very thin options are not suitable, as they quickly deform.

How to calculate the amount of material

When calculating the number of pipes, the length of each arch and additional crossbars should be taken into account. All the parameters of these elements are added. It turns out the total length of the pipes. Next, you should consider the dimensions of the largest parts, for example, the length of the arches. Sections of PVC pipes should not be smaller than the length of the arch. The material is cut according to the features of the design drawing.

The amount of film must be determined depending on the area of ​​the required coverage. In the middle of the greenhouse, seams should not be made and therefore the material should be solid, and it is best to connect the edges on the sides. Self-tapping screws and metal plates for fastening must be selected with a margin.

We build a greenhouse with our own hands

It's easy to build a greenhouse with your own hands, the main thing is to know the technology and follow it.

Instruments

Making a greenhouse from PVC pipes does not require complex tools, but all devices must be of high quality, sharp and accurate. This will significantly reduce the installation time and improve the reliability of the structure. The list of tools includes the following elements:

• tape measure and building level;
• hammer, hacksaw, screwdriver;
• hacksaw for working with metal;
• machine for welding PVC pipes.

All tools must be prepared in advance, and the pipes should be cut into pieces of the required size. For wooden elements the frame must be treated with an antiseptic composition or staining, which will prevent damage to the material.

Step-by-step guide: making a greenhouse

Before starting the assembly of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes, you need to prepare a frame. Wood planks sawn according to the length and width of the greenhouse, and then treated with an antiseptic. After the composition has dried, you can fasten the base with nails. The area for the greenhouse also needs to be prepared and leveled. Further actions are as follows:

1. At the corners of the installed frame, you need to drive in reinforcing rods 50 cm long.This is necessary to comply with the exact diagonal of the structure.
2. Sections of reinforcement in an amount equal to the number of ends of the arches should have a length of 70 cm.The elements should be driven in from outside frame, observing the distance between them at least 80 cm. The reinforcement is necessary for the stability and reliability of the arches. Next, you need to create arches by welding pipes with tees and crosses made of PVC. For the extreme elements, it is required to cut off two identical segments, connect them with a tee, to which in the future, attach the central crossbar.
3. Finished arcs are installed on reinforcing rods located on the long sides of the frame. The pipes should be inserted into the reinforcement from one side and then manually bent and inserted from the other side. PVC material is flexible and therefore it is easy to bend it with your own hands without the use of tools. In this case, it is important to do this carefully, because you can damage the middle, which is fastened with a tee or a cross.
4. Next, you need to make a center bar to secure the structure. Small greenhouses the size of one small bed do not need such an element, but for tall structures it's necessary. A straight PVC pipe should be cut into segments, the length of which is 2 cm longer than the distance between the arches. The resulting elements are welded to tees and crosses in the middle of each arch. After that, the bases of the arches are fixed to the wooden frame using clamps made of metal strips.
5. If necessary, you can make a door frame from wooden blocks. To do this, at the end of the greenhouse, you need to install two pieces of reinforcement that define the boundaries of the door. Next, a frame is hammered from the bars, which is then attached to the fittings and the base of the greenhouse.
6. In addition to the door frame, you need to make fixing elements. To do this, carefully measure the height at their locations and make a structure from bars.

Video: making a greenhouse with your own hands

PVC pipes are a good material for creating a greenhouse. There are many options for making plant shelters and therefore it is important to choose the optimal technology.