Any plumbing equipment has its own service life, and in a certain moment may fail. This also applies to toilets. One way or another, during the repair in the bathroom, you will have to think about replacing such a device. As a rule, calling a foreman related to dismantling and installing plumbing can be an expensive pleasure. But this work can be done on your own.

• The nuances of preparation
• Materials and tools
• How to remove old toilet
• • Fixing with dowels
  • Installation on a solid base
  • Gluing

The nuances of preparation

Before you change the toilet with your own hands, you should plan its future location in the bathroom. In addition, you need to decide on the model of the plumbing device. Old equipment is often unattractive appearance, and does not correspond to the general interior design in the case when the tiles were renovated and updated. This product can look quite unpretentious even if it does its job properly.

The main difference between such models is associated with their connection to the sewage system. it different shape and the direction of the toilet bowl outlet. The following varieties are found:

• devices with oblique release;
• appliances with direct issue 90 degrees;
• products with vertical release going to the floor.

Each of these types of sanitary containers has its own advantages and disadvantages, but modern latrines, as a rule, are equipped with units of the first two types.

Before starting work, you need to figure out what exactly should be done. Sometimes it will be necessary to replace the entire device. If only part of it has become unusable, for example, the toilet cistern is cracked, you can limit yourself to partial restoration.

First of all, you should decide on the choice of the model of the new equipment. For the most comfortable operation, a plumbing fixture must meet certain criteria. Before purchasing a new product, it is recommended to take measurements in the bathroom where the installation of the unit is planned. Given the dimensions obtained, you can choose a plumbing modification that will ideally suit your room.

When installing the equipment, you need to take into account some parameters. For example, the toilet must be installed at least 60 cm to front door... There must be a gap of at least 20 cm between the product and the side walls. This will help to easily install, for example, a toilet seat for disabled people.

It should be remembered that in the event that a complete dismantling of plumbing equipment is performed, the location of the new device may change due to mismatch between the new and old mounting holes, and will need to be positioned by moving the device slightly forward or to the side.

If the bowl of the product does not need to be replaced, it would be advisable to think about buying individual parts and mechanisms, and not complete set equipment. In any case, in stores and markets, you can pick up sanitary tanks of any configuration.

It can be a plastic toilet cistern built into the wall or a compact type sanitary ware that is mounted on the shelf of the appliance bowl. However, in some cases, you will have to look for another model of the tank. The loft-style interior design provides for a hinged toilet cistern, installed at a low height or under the ceiling. The external decor of the device will depend only on your taste preferences and design ideas.

Materials and tools

Replacing the toilet in an apartment with your own hands is a completely feasible event for home master... It can be carried out by spending a minimum of effort and material resources, while performing the work with high quality, it is possible, guided by a simple instruction.You only need to have some basic skills.

Of course, in order to cope with such a task, you will need to acquire some of the tools necessary to dismantle and then install plumbing. For work on changing plumbing, the following are useful:

• hammer drill or hammer drill with reliable concrete drills;
• a set of wrenches for connecting water hoses and assembling locking fittings;
• adjustable wrenches - pipe and "Swedish";
• hammer;
• screwdrivers - straight and cross;
• a bottle of silicone sealant;
• glue-cement.

When a suitable sample of plumbing equipment is purchased, the issue of choosing water pipes for connecting water to the drain tank should be decided. In the past, exclusively metal communications were used for this purpose. Today, products made of polypropylene or metal-plastic are increasingly used. They are not as durable as their steel counterparts, but the installation process is simplified several times. This distinguishes them favorably from old-style systems - for assembling a plumbing structure from innovative materials neither special knowledge nor a specific tool is required.

Previously, the repair of communications required the use of welding, cutting metal by hand with a hacksaw, and threading. In this regard, the work was difficult, long and tiring. A completely different matter is metal-plastic pipes - they are assembled using standard fittings, and even a person with minimal manual skills can cope with this task.

How to remove an old toilet

To perform such work as replacing the toilet with your own hands, it will be useful to draw up a clear algorithm of actions. This will help to shorten the lead time of the process by eliminating unnecessary intermediate steps and avoiding potential oversights.Now we will talk about actually changing the old plumbing equipment. Particularly difficult is the dismantling of the old model.

In the process of removing such a device, certain difficulties may come to light. For example, malfunctioning fasteners can prevent dismantling of the cistern. From constant contact with water for a long period, the mounting screws are covered with a layer of corrosion, which can greatly complicate their loosening.

When removing the toilet bowl, difficulties of this kind also arise with the removal of fasteners. In addition, it can be problematic to disconnect the outlet from the sewer from cast iron pipes... Such connections were previously collected for reeling and smeared cement mortar... It is clear that it is almost impossible to disassemble such a unit without damaging the parts.

If during dismantling it is not necessary to preserve the integrity of the old device, then the bowl of the device can simply be broken into several pieces. If there is a need to preserve an old product, it would be appropriate to seek the help of a qualified specialist.

The most difficult thing in this work is to disconnect the outlet and the sewer pipe. As a rule, over the years of use, the cast-iron pipe is heavily overgrown with rust from the inside, which seals the connection with the toilet to such an extent that it is not possible to simply separate them. In order to resolve this issue, we suggest using a grinder. With its help, you simply cut off the cast-iron flange from the outlet of the plumbing fixture.

New plumbing installation methods

When planning work such as dismantling and installing a toilet, it will be useful to study the device and principles of installation of plumbing equipment of the main varieties.

Usually, the procedure for installing these devices is described in the instruction manual supplied with the product. Let us consider in more detail only the main points in which you may encounter some difficulties.

First you need to clean the outlet of the sewer pipe and connect it to the corrugated hose. Next, a new product is installed and its contour is drawn on the floor. You should also mark the fixing points of the equipment to the horizontal plane. After that, the corrugation is connected to the release of the new model.

As for the installation of the tank, you should start by assembling its internal fittings, and then connect the container to the bowl. In this case, do not forget to lay special rubber seals included with the purchase. After complete assembly of the device, it is imperative that test run plumbing and check the quality of the drain tank. Today, experts distinguish between three main ways of installing a toilet. Each of them deserves special attention.

Fixing with dowels

Most popular and reliable way toilet mountings. Holes are made in the floor at pre-marked points for fasteners. After that, the equipment is installed and fixed with dowels. The seam between the floor and the product is sealed with silicone.

This work does not take much time and is not particularly difficult even for a beginner. In addition, the method allows the system to be firmly installed, which guarantees its long-term and successful operation.

Installation on a solid base

This method has been known for a long time. Its essence is that the toilet, the photo of which is presented in the gallery of the site, is installed on a wood base, fixed in a special niche. The taffeta is laid flush with the floor or so that it rises slightly above it, and poured with a concrete solution. New model fixed to the board with screws lined with rubber washers. Of course, before fixing the product, you need to connect it to the sewage system.

This mounting option is rarely used these days. This is a very laborious and time-consuming process that does not guarantee much reliability.

Gluing

Another almost forgotten way. It consists in applying an epoxy adhesive composition on the floor and the bottom of the toilet. For this, the required substance is acquired and both surfaces are prepared. They must be abraded and thoroughly degreased. Further, glue is applied in a thin layer on both planes and the device is installed, pressing it to the floor. It must be said that the complete hardening of the composition occurs after 12 hours of exposure. Of course, this method is ineffective and involves some difficulties.

It must be said that replacing plumbing is not as difficult an event as they used to think about it. Such work is within the power of every owner. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions during the installation of a new product and heed the advice of experienced specialists.

If you cannot remove the tank due to corrosion of the fasteners, you can simply break it with a hammer.

Plastic plumbing will be a smart alternative to old metal pipes

You should stock up on a set of tools for carrying out such work.

Today, compact designs are very popular.

Products with oblique release - optimal solution for apartment

The old toilet often has an unpresentable appearance, although it functions properly

Disconnecting the product from the cast iron drain is the most difficult part of the work

Marking the exact installation location and mounting holes is one of the important steps

Fixing the toilet with dowels to the floor is the most reliable way of fixing

Replacing the toilet with your own hands is not such a difficult event as people usually think about it.

Mounting the toilet bowl on taffeta is one of the options for attaching the product

All attachment points between the toilet bowl and the cistern must be sealed with silicone

The new tank is installed on a special O-ring and fixed with screws.

Connecting the corrugation to the toilet outlet

After installing the product, seal the joint between the toilet and the floor with silicone.

First, you need to put the new product on its permanent attachment point.

Now we will show with all the details the process of replacing the old Soviet toilet bowl with a new Russian one. See what we have at the moment:

The toilet is of the Soviet type, connected to a cast-iron sewer, buried in the floor. We will dismantle this toilet and put a new one in its place.

This three-way valve will be connected Washer and a toilet hose. Let's start by removing that old blue toilet.

Dismantling the old toilet and cleaning

On the toilet, you can see the numbers: 1989 - the year of its release. It is inserted into a cast-iron sewer. Our task is to break it there in order to take it out of the cast iron, and also beat it off from below in a circle in order to simply remove the toilet bowl from the floor.

At the entrance to the cast iron, we hit it with a hammer, from below we break it with a puncher.

The old toilet was taken out in the trash. Now our task is to remove all the garbage and free the entrance to the sewer from the fragments of the old toilet bowl and from the cement. We knock out the whole thing with a hammer and a chisel so that the cast iron becomes clean.

They knocked out large pieces of the toilet bowl, plus it was sealed with cement and plaster, and cleaned the socket with a knife. The cast iron should be clean, without cement, because the cuff will be inserted here. If you don't clean it all the way, the cuff simply won't fit. Try to prevent large pieces of what you knock out from entering the sewer. Small ones are still possible, but big ones can do things there.

Installing the cuff and corrugation

Here's what we got in the store for work. First, 5 kg tile glue to seal the hole from the old toilet bowl. Secondly, the cuff, here is such a black transition to cast iron:

We will drive this collar into a cast iron pipe. There is also such a short corrugation and an eccentric cuff:

Let's see which of them is better suited for connection. The fact is that the owners bought such a long corrugation:

These are usually snatched in stores. If we put it on, then the owners will simply rest against the door with their knees. Maybe the door won't even close. Therefore, we will install either an eccentric cuff or an imported short corrugation. Let's see what is better in our case. We smeared the bottom at the entrance to the sewer with sealant so that nothing would leak from there with a guarantee:

We hammer in the black transition cuff with a hammer. After it rises, you can mount modern communications. This is how it looks with the cuff:

Now you can insert a 110th plastic modern sewer or corrugation directly into this black cuff. Everything will be fine. Now let's try on the corrugation.

This is how we will connect the toilet to the sewer:

The eccentric cuff fits here normally. We'll stick it deeper and go over it with a sealant for reliability - and everything will be fine. The eccentric cuff fits perfectly here so that the toilet does not slide forward.

Marking and preparing a place for a new toilet

We take a marker and outline where the toilet will stand, as well as the places where we will screw the bolts.

Here are our marker marks. We measure the distance from the line to the toilet hole.

Here is the hole where the bolt will be inserted. We mark them on the floor, where we will drill holes for dowels. We marked two holes, one of them turned out in a hole.

We have an installation kit that the manufacturer gives to the toilet, that is, two short bolts and two 8 mm dowels.

All this will not suit us. One bolt, which is not in the hole, will still be sufficient in length, and the second, which is in the hole, will definitely be short. Therefore, we will use different bolts and different dowels. We have normal dowels from our stock.

One bolt, which is longer, will be screwed into the hole. Here are two normal dowels, 10 by 70 or 10 by 60. They hold well thanks to the protrusions, do not scroll, and what else they are good about - they have a wide inlet, it is easy to get into them with a screw. Now we proceed to the actual drilling. Since we will drill the tile, and we do not have drills and drills on the tile, we only have a perforator, we will drill gradually.

First, drill pyaterochka, we pass them through the tiles, we do not drill concrete. Then drill 6 mm, 8 mm and final drilling with a 10 mm drill. We will drill, of course, without beating, so as not to split the tiles. Then, when we drill a dozen tiles, we can already pass the concrete with a beat. Let's show the stasis the finished result:

The tile was Soviet, it walked without any problems. It is sometimes very difficult to drill a modern tile, sometimes it is just not to drill at all, if it is porcelain stoneware. You can't take porcelain stoneware without a drill on a tile. We quickly drilled everything, put two dowels, now we need to fill in the hole left over from the old toilet bowl tile adhesive or whatever you have there: cement, cement-sand mixture... This hole bothers us, the toilet rises with one side just into this hole.

It happens that the hole does not interfere, then new toilet just put on top. In this case, the hole bothers us very much, so we will seal it with tile glue. It turned out like this:

The hole was covered with cement, leaving only the place where the screw will be screwed in, where the dowel is.

Tank assembly

We have completely completed the preparatory stage, we are proceeding with the assembly. What does our toilet bowl, the so-called “compact”, consist of?

Toilet fittings, which are installed in the cistern, drain and filler:

Well, the cover:

We need to put all this together, then install it on our bolts that we have prepared, and when the tile glue dries up, you can use it. Let's start assembling. We take a bag of fittings, these fittings from Kirov, the so-called "Kirov". It is of normal average Soviet quality, it works for about five to six years, then it needs to be replaced.

Usually the float needs to be replaced, but the drain can also be replaced.

Let's start with the plum. This part is installed on the tank, screwed on, the drain valve just snaps into it from above:

Filling valve or float:

A bag with all related fittings. Nuts and gaskets for the float, for its installation, this nut is screwed here:

This is the gasket that is placed between the cistern and the toilet:

Flush button and installation kit for attaching the cistern to the toilet:

Instruction, passport. Now we will show how to mount all these fittings on the tank. Here is our tank:

This is a big plastic nut. Here comes the gasket, it is inserted from the inside into this central large hole and tightened from below.

Tighten by hand and add a little with a key. This thing then just snaps into place on top:

Now we need to mount the float. Its mounting kit includes a nut that is screwed on from the bottom, a gasket on the float itself and this filter:

Insert the filter here:

It will retain rust, various dirt that flies from the water supply. Then we insert the tapered gasket with the cone down on the float:

We insert the float into the hole, it is specially designed for it:

We insert it and grab it with a nut. We tighten first by hand, then another quarter of a turn, or tighten it a little more with a wrench - and that's it, we won't let the float pass. This completes the assembly of the tank.

Connecting the cistern and toilet

The next step is to screw the cistern to the toilet. These bags contain an assembly kit for connecting a cistern and a toilet bowl:

We put such a plastic washer on the screw, then we put a tapered gasket:

Insert the screw into the tank from the inside into these holes:

We insert so that the gasket is pressed against, the water does not leak. Thus, we collect two bolts. Then we go down. From below we put a rubber gasket, then a plastic gasket, and screw it all with a nut.

The most important thing here is not to overtighten. If you overtighten, the tank will simply crackle and you will run to the store for a new tank. Now we will show all this. Everything is ready for the installation of the tank, put the gasket here:

It serves to seal the connection between the cistern and the toilet. Then we take our two ready-made bolts, with which we will fasten from below. We take the tank itself, install it, insert the bolts into the holes, set them straight. If you place them unevenly, the white spacers may also become uneven, in which case they will then leak.

So, now we need to screw this mounting kit from below:

First we put on a rubber gasket, then a plastic gasket and a nut. We support the screw from here, we insert it all here.

There is no need to rush here, this is a responsible business. A rubber gasket was inserted, a plastic one was inserted. Of course, it is better to do this work together, but you can do it alone. We tighten the nut as far as possible by hand, then we tighten it with a key. Also the second bolt. To tighten the bolts, we use a regular 10mm wrench and a 10mm pipe wrench:

In this case, the bolt heads are 10 mm. We do this: put an ordinary spanner wrench from below, tighten it with a tubular wrench on top.

It is necessary to tighten it approximately until the tank stops wobbling. You cannot overtighten, otherwise it will simply crunch. Now we will show what happened in the end. Top view: one bolt, a second bolt under the float.

Here is the float mounted, the drain valve fitted. Now a bottom view: the lower part of the float, the inlet hose will not be attached here:

One bolt with a tightened nut and the second, also tightened:

Make sure the bolts are evenly tightened so that the reservoir is level. Here, the distance should be the same everywhere, the gasket is pressed so that water does not flow here.

Toilet installation

We have installed the cistern, we are proceeding with the installation of the toilet.

Our floor is naturally uneven. We spread some glue around the perimeter of the toilet to compensate for the unevenness of the tiles.

We take the toilet itself, insert it into the sewer, set it according to the marks and fasten it. We press down the toilet a little so that the excess tile adhesive comes out.

So, according to the mark, we put it, now we need to drive in and tighten the bolts. This is how it is done. Here's a bolt and a gasket to keep the toilet from cracking if you overtighten it. Top decorative hat:

Prepare a long bolt for the right side and a short one for the left. We are looking for holes to get into the dowels. As we have already said, we have special dowels, it is easy to get into them.

Here is a prepared screw, on the other hand, exactly the same. We fasten it. We have a special tool for this.

Here is a trickle for quick screwing, with a 10mm head. There is also a regular 10 mm wrench, with which we just hold out to the right moment.

Hose and drain fittings connection

The toilet is standing, not wobbling. The final assembly remains. What does this mean?

We connect this hose to a three-way tap:

At the bottom of the tank, we connect it to the bottom of the float, then we install the drain fittings, a lid with a button, a toilet lid:

Everything, the owners can use it. Of course, the cement must dry, it will take about 5-6 hours.

Look, what a wonderful toilet bowl, how wonderful and professionally installed it is.

Hydraulic tests

Stayed final stage- hydraulic tests. We supply water and check that it does not flow from anywhere. It can leak, firstly, from a three-way tap, where water is supplied, and secondly, from under the bolts that attach the tank to the toilet, from under the gasket between the tank and the toilet, and from the eyeliner to the float. Now we will check it all. Opening the tap cold water- there was a gurgle in the toilet, water went into the cistern. The float has been triggered and the water flow has stopped. We check under the toilet where we have two bolts. They should not be wet. The floor is dry, the bolts are normal, the water supply is also dry. Now we drain the toilet and check that it does not leak from the back of the toilet, under the toilet and in the front. Nothing flows anywhere, lids can be put on, and when the cement is dry, you can use it. This is how we dismantled the Soviet toilet, and put a new Russian one in its place.

All rights to the video belong to: Master lancaster

Any technical means have their own service life and can fail, this also applies to plumbing, including toilets. When plumbing equipment breaks down, you have to think about replacing it. Such work includes dismantling the old toilet bowl and installing a new one, in the article we will analyze these processes.

The reason for replacing plumbing equipment in an apartment may not only be a breakdown old technology but also its unattractive appearance. An old toilet bowl may not correspond to the visual characteristics of the interior of the bathroom, spoil the image of the entire home, nullify the funds and efforts invested in the repair of the room. Even if it regularly performs its functions, but looks unpresentable, it is better to replace it, although this will cause additional financial costs.

There must be at least 20 cm between the toilet and the side walls

Before buying a new device, you need to decide on the scale renovation works... Complete toilet replacement is not always necessary. For example, if the breakdown of an old technical device lies in a cracked cistern, you can simply replace the cistern itself, but do not touch the toilet.

If you need to replace the entire toilet, you should first select new plumbing, which should be as functional as possible, attractive and corresponding to the external parameters of the bathroom. Toilets differ from each other not only in visual characteristics, but also in the shape and direction of the outlet through which the device is connected to the sewer network. On the market, you can find equipment with the following types of release:

All types of releases have their positive and negative qualities, however, direct and oblique releases are considered the most functional and convenient, therefore most modern toilet bowls have just such connections. Before buying, you need to measure the bathroom. This information will allow you to choose a plumbing device that will ideally fit into the room, not only in terms of its visual characteristics, but also in size.

It should be remembered that it is necessary to place the toilet in the room taking into account some parameters. First, the device must be located at least 60 cm from the door. Secondly, there should be a free distance between the toilet bowl and the side walls - at least 20 cm. Compliance with these standards will allow you to use the bathroom as comfortably as possible in the future. When buying, it is recommended to pay attention to the design of the old and new toilet bowls. It is not always the case that the hole connected to the drain channel is located in the same place, therefore, after installation, the new device may be located completely differently from the old one.

Replacing an old toilet with a new one is enough simple job, which the owner of the apartment can do with his own hands. To do this, you must first purchase or take from friends some tools, without which dismantling and installation is impossible. To replace plumbing you will need:

• hammer drill or hammer drill with special winder drills for working in concrete;
• a set of wrenches for assembling locking fittings and connecting water hoses to the device;
• pipe and Swedish adjustable wrenches;
• screwdriwer set;
• hammer;
• glue-cement;
• bottle with sealant.

In addition to tools, some materials are also required for work. In particular, you need to purchase suitable pipes water supply system through which the cistern will be connected to the water supply system. Previously, metal pipes were predominantly used to connect plumbing, but today the most popular products are made of metal-plastic and polypropylene. Such pipes are not as durable as their metal counterparts, but it is much easier to work with them - no special skills and tools are required for this.

During installation, pipe and Swedish adjustable wrenches will be required.

To work with metal products, you have to use welding, cut consumables manually, cut threads and perform other complex work, because of which previously replacing plumbing was a very difficult task that was beyond the strength of many owners. Installation is performed in a completely different way metal-plastic pipes, they are assembled with the help of special fittings, which makes it possible to carry out work by people who have no experience.

Dismantling the old toilet is the first stage of work, which is recognized by many experienced specialists as the most difficult and responsible of the entire replacement procedure. It is during dismantling that various difficulties and troubles can arise, for example, fasteners could rust and now interfere with removing the drain tank. From constant contact with water hardware become substandard and can be very difficult to unscrew.

Before installing a new toilet, you must dismantle the old

Difficulties can also arise when removing the toilet bowl, where the fasteners can also corrode. And even earlier, the release from the sewer from cast-iron pipes was fixed on the toilet and covered with concrete mortar... As a result, after many years it is almost impossible to disassemble the connection without damaging the old toilet bowl and fasteners.

If you do not want to maintain integrity installed toilet, the bowl can simply be broken into several pieces with a hammer or sledgehammer. If it is necessary to keep the old device in good condition, it is better to refuse self-dismantling. You cannot remove the toilet bowl from the cement base on your own.

The entire dismantling process will include the following steps:

1. 1. Disconnecting the tank from the water supply. Just disconnect the pipe through which the water enters the tank using wrench and drain the remaining water.
2. 2. Detach the cistern from the toilet. To do this, unscrew the nuts located with back side structure, and slowly raise the tank.
3. 3. Loosen the base of the toilet. If tiles are laid around the toilet, they must be dismantled, and then unscrew the nuts securing the bowl to the floor, there can be from 2 to 4 pieces. If the socket seal is made of cement, it must first be beaten off with a hammer and chisel (use a thin chisel).
4. 4. Shut up sewer pipe stopper. The pipe should be closed so that sewer gases do not enter the apartment during further work.
5. 5. Dismantle the old toilet. It is recommended not to spare the old plumbing products and simply beat off the toilet drain with a hammer (observing safety measures) and release the sewer socket.
6. 6. Clean the socket from mortar residues and ceramic fragments.

In some cases, it is extremely difficult to disconnect the toilet outlet and the sewer pipe. Over the years of operation, cast iron products can become overgrown with rust, which makes the connection to the toilet even more reliable. In this case, you can use a grinder to cut off the cast-iron flange from the toilet bowl outlet and finish the dismantling work.

There are several methods of mounting and fixing the toilet to the base. After purchase, it is recommended to carefully study the installation instructions from the manufacturer, it indicates the preferred method of implementation installation works... In any case, after freeing up space for the installation of plumbing, it is necessary to connect the clean outlet of the sewer pipe with a corrugated hose. Next, place the product and outline its contour with a felt-tip pen on the floor and mark on the floor the fixing points of the bowl to the horizontal plane.

There are several ways to attach to the base

Further work depends on the method of mounting the device on the base chosen by you or provided by the manufacturer. One of the most popular installation methods is dowel mounting. For such a fastening, it is necessary, according to the marks made with a felt-tip pen, to make holes in the floor with a drill or perforator. Next, the bowl is installed and fixed with dowels in the pre-made holes. After that, you just have to process the seam between the bowl and the floor with a special silicone sealant.

The popularity of this installation method is due to its simplicity. Even a beginner can do such work without much difficulty. After installing the plumbing fixture, it remains only to assemble the tank according to the instructions, install it on the bowl, fasten the bolts and connect the drain tank to the water supply system.

If the hose connecting the tank to the water supply pipe is in good condition, it does not need to be changed, however, if there are traces of corrosion, it is better to replace the product with a new one.

The second way to install the bowl to the base is to mount it on a solid gasket. This is a rather old method of installation, which involves placing the device on a special wooden spacer, which is fixed in a niche in the base. The gasket is placed in a pre-made niche and fixed with concrete mortar. The new toilet bowl is placed on the gasket and fixed to the board with screws, after having laid the connection with rubber washers. This is clearly an outdated installation method that is rarely used these days.

The third mounting option involves gluing the toilet bowl to the surface. The floor and the lower plane of the toilet bowl are abraded and degreased, after which they are lubricated with a thin layer of a special epoxy adhesive. After that, the bowl is pressed to the floor and left until the glue hardens for 12 hours. Gluing is rarely used, however, when using high-quality adhesive, this method allows you to achieve reliable fastening, but serious difficulties can arise with the subsequent replacement of the toilet.

We recommend installing toilets with wall plugs only. This method provides the highest quality connection, is simple and allows in the future to replace the device with a new one with minimal effort.

Do-it-yourself toilet replacement in an apartment?

Replacing the toilet - we install new plumbing correctly Any technical means have their own service life and may fail, this also applies to plumbing, including toilets. At

Replacing the toilet

Plumbing equipment has long been an integral part of any comfortable home. But as you know, "nothing lasts forever under the moon," and your toilet will sooner or later require replacement. In this case, you can contact your managing organization and, having prepared the money, wait for the arrival of a plumber, hoping for loyalty to popular wisdom " you can't drink experience».

You can go the other way and find "shabashniki" according to the ad, risking getting caught by unscrupulous performers seeking to get as much money as possible in the shortest possible time, while not bothering yourself too much. But if you have minimal experience with a drill and wrench, you should try to replace the toilet with your own hands.

What to foresee in advance

Of course, if your old toilet is thirty years old, it is connected metal pipe with cistern top location, and to replace it, welding is required with the insertion of a new water inlet into the riser ( vertical pipe supplying water to the floors) at a lower height - you still have to turn to professionals. Replacing the "compact" toilet bowl (in which the cistern is mounted directly on the toilet bowl) with a similar new one is quite within the power of anyone who has read this article and read the instructions attached to the new kit.

First of all, of course, you need to choose and purchase a new set of toilet bowl, cistern and drain fittings. Toilet fittings, like drain fittings, are usually included in the kit - this is worth checking when buying and purchasing if necessary. In addition, you will need:

• plastic corrugation;
• flexible water liner - you can estimate its length by looking at the old one (usually a nut-nut liner with 1/2 inch thread is used);
• a rubber gasket in the shape of the toilet seat or silicone sealant.

If the old toilet is modern enough and was attached to the floor with standard fasteners (screws), you can try to pick up a new bowl with the same distance between the fastening holes so as not to re-drill the floor - this is especially true when it is laid on the floor. ceramic tile that you are not going to change.

Most modern "compacts", except for the cheapest models, have a bottom water connection - this means that water enters the tank through a hole in the bottom, and does not pour into the tank from above with an annoying murmur. Better to choose just that.

Other delights, for example, the shape of a special nut in the bowl ( so-called anti-burst) or microlift, smoothly and without knocking lowering the seat, you can choose to your taste and wallet. It is only necessary to pay attention to which release the old toilet has - straight or oblique, and to acquire a new unit of the same type.

Required materials and tools

After purchasing the "compact" itself and the materials necessary for the work, you can start preparatory work.

You will need the following tools:

• a set of wrenches (you can do with a pair of adjustable wrenches);
• perforator or electric drill with impact mode (if you cannot use the old holes for attaching the toilet to the floor) and two drills - special - for tiles and carbide - for concrete;
• water container - a bucket or basin and a rag;
• it does not hurt to disinfect the old toilet with bleach or a special agent;
• Replacing the toilet with your own hands must be done with gloves, and when drilling holes - with goggles.

Dismantling an old toilet

Before dismantling the old toilet, it is necessary to shut off the water supply to the tank using the tap located in front of the flexible hose. If this tap does not hold water, you must turn off the valve at the water inlet to the apartment.

It is worth noting that in old houses, the pipe can be diverted to the toilet cistern directly from the riser. In this case, if the crane malfunctions, it will be necessary to shut off the entire riser in the basement, leaving the neighbors above and below without water - you cannot do without the help of the workers of the housing maintenance company.

After closing the valve before connecting the tank, remember to drain the water from the tank. Then you can turn off flexible liner by disconnecting it from the union of the closed tap. A container placed under the disassembled connection will come in handy here, since a little water inevitably remains in the liner.

The main thing is not to inadvertently damage the cast iron tee, which is part of a sewer riser, its replacement is a very time-consuming task, which you will not be able to cope with on your own. Further, tilting the toilet bowl towards the apartment's sewer pipe, you need to drain the water from the siphon built into the toilet bowl (knee with water, preventing the penetration of odors from the sewer system into the room). After that, you can disconnect the old toilet by removing the corrugation from the tee.

It is better to cover the hole in the sewer pipe with a rag or plastic bottle suitable diameter. Dismantling is over, you can proceed to the main thing - the installation of a new unit!

Do-it-yourself installation of a new toilet

The installation site needs to be cleaned. The new toilet must be installed in place, taking into account the length of the corrugation and markings should be made by tracing the base and marking the places of the holes for the fastening. To prevent the ceramic floor tiles from bursting, holes in it must be drilled in non-shock mode special drill, then replace with carbide, switch the drill to percussion mode and continue drilling in the floor slab.

Plastic plugs (dowels) are inserted into the holes, into which screws will then be screwed. It is also necessary to clean the neck of the sewer pipe. Installing the drain fittings in the cistern and connecting the cistern to a new toilet is quite simple if you read the instructions that came with the kit. Usually, the drain device is already mounted in the tank, and the installer only needs to screw the tank to the bowl using special gaskets. The corrugation is inserted at one end into the sewer pipe, and at the other end it is put on the outlet of the toilet bowl.

Sometimes you will find advice that the toilet is replaced using a corrugated sealant, although due to its design with external and internal membranes, this is not necessary.

It is better to install the toilet on a rubber gasket in the shape of the base, this will prevent dirt from getting under it. In the absence of a gasket, silicone sealant can be applied by applying a thick layer along the inner perimeter of the marking under the base. The toilet bowl is secured with screws screwed into the plastic stoppers. It is important to tighten the screws firmly enough, but not to overdo it, otherwise the fragile faience of the bowl may crack.

It is not necessary to install the "compact" tank close to to the wall of the room - this will complicate further maintenance, may lead to a leak at the junction of the tank and the bowl if it is slightly displaced, and also cause condensation to accumulate at the point of contact between the tank and the toilet wall. After the toilet is attached, you can start connecting the water supply to the tank. The nuts of the flexible line are equipped with gaskets made of sanitary rubber or silicone, so that it is not required to additionally wrap the FUM threaded connections with tape or special thread. The branch pipe of the water supply system to the tank is usually made of plastic, therefore, screw the connection nut by hand, you can only slightly tighten it with a wrench, being careful not to damage it.

Many modern eyeliners are equipped with a special plastic key that is put on the tube and makes it easier to twist. The toilet seat is installed last, this should not cause any difficulties.

Then, without putting the lid on the tank, perform a test run of the unit with filling the tank and draining the water, check the connections for leaks, and the tank drain fittings for correct adjustment. Leaks are easy to spot, if you place an old dry newspaper on the floor under the joints in advance. The drain fittings must ensure that the tank is completely filled without overflow.

We connect the toilet to the water supply

If necessary, its simple adjustment is performed, the principle of which can be understood even without instructions. Once the connections and fittings have been checked, you can replace the tank lid and enjoy the work done.

Replacing the toilet - the cost of work

If, after studying our instructions, you do not want to face the problems of self-replacement, then you need to use the services of a professional plumber. The price for work, depending on the city of your residence, will be from 750 to 1500 rubles.

Also, in most large stores, they offer a turnkey service, i. E. delivery, dismantling, installation and removal of the old toilet bowl. Usually, it costs 2,500 rubles.

As you can see, in the general case, it is not difficult to replace the toilet with your own hands. It is quite possible that you will do this work better than hired workers, and at the same time save your family budget.

Replacing the toilet with your own hands: step-by-step instruction with video

Replacing the toilet: a detailed article on how to do this work yourself. The process of dismantling the old and installing a new toilet is described with Video comments

Replacing the toilet with your own hands

Sooner or later the time comes when the old toilet in the apartment becomes unusable, and you have to change it to a new one. Most often, replacing the toilet bowl for the average resident may seem like an expensive pleasure if there is a call to a plumber. However, armed with a certain set of tools and applying some skill, you can replace the toilet on your own, and the recommendations below will help you carry out this procedure efficiently and at minimal cost.

Before replacing the toilet, do not forget to drain the water!

First of all, you should decide whether this will be a complete replacement of the unit, or, say, a partial replacement of the toilet cistern. In the first case, it is worth starting with the choice of the model of the new toilet bowl, namely, with the selection of the unit of suitable dimensions and configuration. Just like the old toilet, the new device should provide users with conditions of maximum comfort, therefore, immediately before replacing and installing the toilet, it is necessary to measure the toilet, and taking these indicators into account, choose the model that will fit into the room correctly. Namely:

• the distance from the front door to the toilet bowl must be at least 60 cm;
• the distance from the unit to the side walls must be at least 20 cm in both directions.

It should be borne in mind that when replacing a toilet in an apartment, some models, due to the fastening features, will significantly shift forward.

In the event that only the replacement of the toilet bowl is required, it becomes impractical to purchase the entire set (toilet bowl plus bowl). One way or another, any plumbing store can offer cisterns of any configuration: built into the wall, installed on the toilet shelf, as well as installed under the ceiling itself. It is worth choosing from the presented assortment based on the characteristics of the room and your own preferences.

Now directly on the replacement of the old toilet. The whole process starts with dismantling the old unit. If we are talking about replacing a relatively new device connected to a sewer system made of plastic pipes, there should not be any special problems here. And if, for example, you have to replace the toilet bowl in the Khrushchev, then everything is much more complicated.

In this case, a variety of difficulties can arise. So, dismantling the tank can be complicated by the poor condition of the fasteners. Per long years service fastening bolts rust, making it difficult to remove them. When dismantling the toilet itself, as a rule, there are similar problems with fasteners, as well as difficulties in disconnecting the outlet from the cast-iron sewer. In those years, such connections were made by sealing with tow, followed by embedding with cement mortar. Of course, undocking such connections is a very time consuming process.

If, when replacing an old toilet with a new one, there is no need to preserve the integrity of the old unit, then the old toilet can simply be broken into several parts with a hammer. Dismantling the toilet bowl while maintaining its integrity can only be performed by a qualified specialist. After all the fasteners are disconnected, the most difficult task - disconnecting the outlet from the sewer pipe - has been overcome, you can start installing a new toilet.

So, replacing the toilet with your own hands at the stage of installing a new device includes the following steps.

The neck of the cast-iron sewage system is carefully cleaned, a rubber cuff is fixed on it with the help of silicone sealant and a corrugated hose is connected.

The new toilet is placed on the floor, its contours and attachment points are outlined. Holes for fasteners are drilled, the toilet is installed and secured using special powerful bolts.

After assembling the internal drain, the toilet cistern is attached to the toilet itself; for this, special bolts and O-rings are also used.

The final stage is to connect the device to water supply and sewerage systems.

Thus, this short guide with a photo on how to replace the toilet will help you not only to carry out the whole range of activities on their own, but also save on plumbing services, as well as gain invaluable experience in replacing plumbing.

Do-it-yourself toilet replacement: photo, video instruction

How to replace the toilet with your own hands? See the photo and video instructions for replacing the toilet with a new one. What features are there when replacing an old toilet bowl in a Khrushchev? How to replace a toilet in an apartment? Replacing and installing a toilet is easy!

How to replace the toilet with your own hands

Replacing the toilet bowl may be required when changing the design of the toilet room or in case of a banal breakdown of a plumbing device. The work of professional plumbers is quite expensive. In addition, it is difficult to agree on the time of the operation. To avoid similar problems, you can change the toilet on your own. How to do this, read on.

Self-change of plumbing in the toilet

Dismantling an old toilet

The toilet can be:

• floor-standing, that is, installed on the floor of the toilet room;
• suspended, that is, attached to one of the walls of the toilet room.

The choice of dismantling method depends on the type of toilet installed.

Removing the floor-standing toilet

Before proceeding with the installation of a new plumbing product, it is required to dismantle the previously installed toilet bowl. The work is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. the water entering the flush tank is shut off. To do this, it is enough to close the valve on the water pipe;
2. the water supply is disconnected from the toilet cistern. To complete the work, you will need a wrench of the right size or an adjustable plumbing wrench;

Disconnecting the connection from the drain tank

1. all the water is drained from the tank. Remains of liquid are soaked with a soft cloth to avoid spillage;
2. the toilet cistern is removed. To do this, unscrew the fixing bolts located in the bottom of the drain tank;

Toilet cistern fixing bolts

1. in the next step, it is necessary to determine the method of connecting the outlet of the toilet bowl and the sewer pipe. Currently, the connection is equipped with a rubber cuff sealed with a sealant. Previously, the joint was sealed with cement mortar:
   • if the joint is equipped with a cuff, then for dismantling it is necessary to carefully cut the sealant layer and remove the seal from the sewer hole;

Plumbing connected to the sewer with a rubber sleeve

• if the joint is covered with cement screed, then a hammer and chisel will be needed to disconnect the toilet from the sewer. Cement strainer with the help of tools, it is crushed into small pieces and gradually removed.

Cement-sealed connection

1. after disconnecting the toilet from the sewer, you can proceed to the direct dismantling of the sanitary ware. The toilet can be fixed to the floor:
   • with fixing bolts. In this situation, a screwdriver and a wrench are enough to remove the toilet. Decorative caps are removed from the bolts, after which it is easy enough to unscrew them;

Removing the bolted toilet

• with help epoxy resin... In this case, it is practically impossible to dismantle the plumbing without damage. To remove the toilet, you need to slightly swing the product in different directions until the restraining adhesive seam is partially destroyed. When doing the work, you can slightly help with third-party tools, for example, a knife;

Dismantling a bowl installed on an adhesive base

• using taffeta (wooden spacer). Removing the toilet from the taffeta is quite simple. It is necessary to unscrew the fixing bolts. However, after dismantling the plumbing, you need to remove wood gasket and fill the vacated space with a cement-concrete mixture.

After dismantling the wooden spacer

1. the place of installation of the toilet and the connection of plumbing with the sewer pipe is cleaned of debris and other contaminants.

Removing the wall-mounted toilet

You can replace the wall-mounted toilet with your own hands in as soon as possible... To dismantle an old plumbing product, you must:

1. slightly loosen the bolts securing the toilet bowl to the installation;
2. disconnect the plumbing device from the drain tank and sewer;
3. completely remove the toilet from the mountings.

Removing the wall-mounted toilet

Installing a new toilet

The method of installing a new toilet, as well as dismantling the old structure, depends on the type of sanitary ware.

Installation of a floor-standing toilet

How to change the toilet floor type and install a new product in place of the dismantled plumbing? The work process consists of the following stages, which are recommended to be carried out in the specified order:

1. assembly of the toilet. It is necessary to attach a drain tank to the bowl and install its fittings:
   • when installing fittings, one must be guided by the attached diagram;

Detailed instructions for assembling fittings with a bottom line

• the tank is installed on a rubber sealing ring;

Seal between the bowl and the toilet cistern

• fixing the tank is made with special screws included in the set of the sanitary ware. Each screw must be fitted with an individual rubber gasket to seal the connection;

Screws with gaskets for fixing the cistern

1. a rubber cuff is attached to the outlet of the toilet, which is necessary to connect the plumbing to the sewer inlet. When installing the cuff, it is recommended to use a silicone sealant, which allows you to get a stronger and more durable connection;

Installing a cuff for connection to the sewer

1. the assembled plumbing is placed in the selected place. The possibility of correct connection of the device to the sewer network is being checked. Marking is made on the floor for fixing bolts;

Marking before installing the toilet

1. in the marked area, holes are drilled for fasteners;
2. dowels are installed;

Preparing to mount the toilet on the floor

1. the final installation of the toilet bowl is carried out and the plumbing is connected to the sewerage and water supply. After installation, it is recommended to seal the joint between the floor and the foot of the toilet with a sealant.

Securing the toilet to the floor

Installation of a wall-mounted toilet

Mounting wall hung toilet provided that the installation is pre-installed, the installation is performed in a few simple steps:

1. the toilet is connected to the sewer and the drain tank;
2. the toilet is fixed with fixing bolts.

Fastening a wall-hung toilet to a previously installed installation

Knowing simple rules and the instructions presented in the article, you can easily replace the old toilet with a new one.

Replacing the toilet: step by step instructions

Quite often, it becomes necessary to replace the toilet bowl in a residential area. You can entrust the work to professionals or do it yourself.

Removing the toilet is not the most pleasant experience. However, this procedure is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. Anyone can reinstall it; it is enough to know how the entire structure is attached to the floor and pipes. Special attention you need to give the tank. In this article, we will tell you how to replace the toilet in an apartment.

Hygiene

It is important to protect yourself before work. After all, replacing the toilet on your own can lead to various infections. For example, if your hands have scratches that have not yet healed, bacteria can get there.

During dismantling, fragments fly off from the old unit, which can injure the master.

In addition to your hands, you should also protect your eyes, which can also easily get infected.

1. Always wear gloves on your hands.
2. Eyes are protected with glasses.
3. The device to be dismantled must be treated with an antiseptic to minimize the number of dangerous bacteria. You can use bleach or whiteness.

What are the types of device

Toilet bowls can be almost new and Soviet. The difference between the two lies in the nature of the attachment.

1. New products are usually assembled using plastic fasteners... When dismantled, such fasteners are cut off. The tubes in the new products are also plastic or metal-plastic, and it is easy to disconnect them.
2. Soviet products of this type are mounted directly into the floor. As a rule, the place of attachment is filled with cement. To dismantle such a unit, you will have to break it. However, these devices are quite old, and you shouldn't feel sorry for them. Using a handy tool, you can easily remove them. The pipes used to connect the old Soviet toilet bowls to utilities are sometimes made of steel. These pipes will have to be unscrewed or cut down.

Preliminary work

Dismantling

Having determined the type of attachment, you can get to work.

1. With the old Soviet method of fastening, the bolts must be removed first. They can be unscrewed or simply broken. Most often they no longer lend themselves to the influence of the tool, so it is easier to break off the heads. Then you have to break out the toilet itself. It is very firmly built into the sewer pipe, because in those days it was made for centuries. Having finished dismantling, it is necessary to clear the place of work to install a new unit.
2. If the model is relatively new, then nothing will have to be broken. It is necessary to unscrew the bolts, which, most likely, are not too rusty yet. Next, you need to disconnect plastic pipe from the sewer system.

Before installation

After the dismantling of the toilet is completed, you can proceed to preparing a place for a new unit.

1. The place must be cleaned of construction debris, fragments of old materials and dust.
2. The sewer opening must be covered with a plastic bottle so that nothing gets there. The issue is also covered.
3. At the dismantling site, you need to make a markup for a new toilet. Marks for the bolts are first made on the floor. Then you should drill holes with a diamond drill.
4. A new product can be mounted on the prepared place; for this, you should purchase a special fixing kit. The kit usually includes:

• 2 plastic dowels;
• 2 long screws;
• washers and gaskets;
• screw caps.

Choice

The choice of a toilet is a very responsible event. After all, he will stand in place for more than one year. Therefore, it is necessary to choose the kit that best meets all the requirements.

In the event of a breakdown, complex structures, most likely, cannot be repaired on their own.

More often than not, people do not find the choice of this device difficult. The list of requirements for it is limited to convenience, lightness and, sometimes, color. Most buyers do not go further than this. But besides external characteristics, each model has its own technical indicators. Leading companies in the plumbing market regularly update their product range, releasing more and more interesting novelties. Focusing only on the appearance and convenience of the toilet, you can soon face problems that will not be easy to solve. Before you make a replacement, you need to think about some of the characteristics.

1. When choosing a device, you must take into account the size of the bathroom or toilet. For large, spacious rooms, it is recommended to purchase designs with a bidet and a cistern. If the dimensions of the bathroom are very small, then you can organically fit a toilet bowl into the space without a cistern. These models have a special built-in flush system. They are very convenient and will save space in the room.
2. The material of manufacture of the unit is very important. By purchasing cheap products, the consumer runs the risk of getting low-quality ceramics, which will ruin all the pleasure of the purchase very soon. Of all the proposals for the home, it is better to choose models from porcelain and earthenware in the middle price segment.
3. The inner shape of the bowl is of great importance. Some of the models have a special splash guard.
4. The design of the flushing device is also important. It is selected taking into account the characteristics of the communication system in the house. There are three types of such structures: vertical, oblique and horizontal. To make the right choice, you need to look at the features of the flush device in your system.
5. Today there are many models of cisterns. It is necessary to take into account the noise level of the tank, its capacity and other indicators. You should also pay attention to the location of the tank relative to the toilet itself.

It is known that it is easiest to establish the most simple models... They usually do not cause any particular problems during operation either. Choosing too complex structure, the consumer may later regret his choice. In the simplest models, most of the problems are associated with the cistern, which is not difficult to repair.

Video

Replacing the toilet is required when an old product becomes unusable. More often, dismantling the old toilet and installing a new one are in demand in old buildings, where all communications need to be updated. Self-replacement of the toilet bowl and other details is not difficult. However, it assumes possession of basic skills in working with a tool (punch, drill, etc.) and the ability to make a fill and lay tiles. How to install a toilet bowl in a private house with your own hands, read and watch the video tutorial below.

Dismantling an old toilet

Dismantling and installing a toilet bowl in a private house or apartment is a usual thing for plumbers, but for ordinary people such a procedure can become a real problem.

Often the question arises of how to remove a toilet that is out of order. Dismantling the toilet includes:

1. Disconnection of water.
2. Disconnecting the cold water supply from the toilet. Dismantling the flexible hose is performed with an adjustable wrench. If made of metal: cut off a piece of pipe and unscrew it, attach a flexible eyeliner.
3. Dismantling the old device: the old product is freed from the fasteners (the screws are unscrewed, the cement is knocked down).
4. Then you need to drain the water from the toilet by tilting it back a little.
5. The device is disconnected from the corrugation and the bell, for which the latter is cut down to the required size, and a new corrugation is installed.

In general, the dismantling of the toilet bowl can be considered complete. Dismantling an old toilet is not so easy to do, since not every product can be removed just like that. It happens that the device is already wobbling and it can be removed by simply disconnecting it from the sewer riser and from the water supply. But in "Khrushchevs" often everything is much more complicated.

The plumbing fixture is often embedded in the floor. And it is almost impossible to get it out of there whole, so first they break it. This is how the toilet bowl is replaced in an apartment from the Khrushchev era. Many homeowners still do the same. Therefore, the question often arises, how to change the toilet with your own hands?

Do-it-yourself toilet replacement requires certain actions and caution. Dismantling a toilet bowl that has served its time involves removing the cast-iron tee. The latter is equipped with two taps: 10 cm each - for the device itself, 7.5 cm each for other sewer pipes. Since the pipes will be completely replaced with plastic ones, a 5 cm bend will be required so as not to install a reduction in a metal tee.

Dismantling the tee is advisable due to its large dimensions. After all, a plastic product is much more compact. Dismantling the existing tee is done with the utmost care, loosening it carefully and so as not to harm the other tee located in the sewer riser. Now you know how to dismantle the toilet or change the product yourself.

Please note: not every leak of the device implies its replacement; often it is enough to change only the corrugation or the tank.

Replacement of individual equipment

Before removing the old toilet and replacing it, check it, it may not need to be completely dismantled. Sometimes it is enough to change only a few that have failed, elements: change the drain, corrugated pipes, tank or fittings.

Consider how to install a toilet cistern if you need to replace it:

1. First, the water supply is cut off.
2. Then the water is drained from the tank.
3. After that, unscrew the hose from the valve or cistern, and then remove the fastening bolts of the cistern with the toilet.
4. We dismantle the old tank.
5. The installation site of the new drain tank is thoroughly cleaned from traces of rust.
6. The new cistern is now bolted to the toilet shelf and sealed with gaskets.
7. When the replacement of the old toilet cistern is completed, fittings are installed in it, which is also sealed.
8. Finally, a flexible hose is screwed onto the float valve and the water supply is turned on.

5 simple steps how to change the corrugation on the toilet:

1. First of all, you need to pump out the water from the pipe, slightly raising it to the side of the drain.
2. Then it is necessary to remove the old corrugation by removing the dried sealant, cement and the old outlet in the socket with a chisel.
3. After that, you need to thoroughly clean the sewer socket and outlet from any dirt and debris.
4. Wipe the inner edges of the socket with a dry clean cloth and apply a sealing solution.
5. Then, on one edge of the corrugation, we apply a sealant and install it all the way into the sewer bell. We put the other edge on the toilet bowl drain, and seal all the connections.

That's all the intricacies of installation corrugated pipe on the toilet. If desired, everyone can independently replace it, putting a little effort and diligence in this matter.

Watch the video tutorial on how to replace the fittings in the cistern:

Preparatory work for installation

Regardless of what will cover the floor (tiles or ordinary screed), you need to wait time for the mixture to dry on the floor surface. This will take about a week. This is due to the fact that the fixation of the toilet is carried out by means of fasteners and dowels, for which a reliable and solid base is required. In this situation, the hardened solution will act as a similar basis.

Next, you should prepare those who take part in the installation process of communication. The area where the drain will be connected must be cleaned in advance of various contaminants and salt deposits. Otherwise, it will not work to connect the toilet with sewer riser just the way you need it. That is, the corner or corrugation in the outlet glass will not sit tightly, and a leak will certainly appear.

Even at the connection point of the drain tank, a tap should be installed so that it is possible to carry out repair and cleaning work with incomplete shutdown of water.

DIY toilet installation

Installing, replacing or assembling a toilet bowl yourself consists of the following steps.

1. Before you put the toilet bowl, a plastic tee is installed in the outlet of the sewer riser. This action should not be difficult if the outlet glass has been thoroughly cleaned. If the tee is too tight, it is recommended to lubricate it with any detergent.
2. This is followed by installing the toilet in its original position and connecting it through the corners or corrugated hose to the riser outlet. At this stage, it is necessary to assess how in this position it will fit into the plumbing room: is there enough space to open the door inside, whether the seated person will be comfortable. This position is outlined with a pencil or marker. Having indicated the points of attachment of the product to the floor surface, the toilet bowl is removed.
3. At the designated points, holes are drilled for the toilet fixing dowels. Usually their sizes are 10-12 mm. It often happens that the set does not include a 12 mm drill (the dowel is exactly 12 mm), then it is worth, without hesitation, boldly change the dowel by 10 mm. A drill with a diameter of 10 mm is used. The 12mm dowel bolt is also suitable for a smaller volume of parts.
4. Having placed the dowels over the holes, the device is connected to the riser. Make a slight roll of the toilet bowl to the side. Silicone sealant is applied along the previously drawn line, and the installation of the toilet is completed by putting it back.
5. The installed plumbing is pressed with bolts very carefully so as not to be pinched. After that, the bolts are covered with decorative caps.
6. Then the tank is attached to the toilet. The tank itself does not require assembly, since this has already been done at the factory. In this case, do not forget to use the rubber gaskets provided in the kit.
7. In turn, tighten the clamping bolts in the toilet. The first is clamped so that a clear skew of the tank is felt. Next, press with your hand from above and align by tightening the second bolt.
8. To connect the tank to the water supply, use a high-quality hose. It is not recommended to choose rubber products with a metal sheath for these purposes. Rust can erode the jacket, causing the hose to break at this point. It is most advisable to purchase reliable metal-plastic or products in a metal corrugation.
9. After connecting the device to the water supply, unscrew the tap and wait for the tank to fill. Control the drain.
10. When the drain connections are moistened, the hose or corners are removed and wiped dry. Having treated them with silicone, they are put on again.

This completes the installation or assembly of the toilet bowl with your own hands.