Every day, environmentally friendly, strong and durable ceramic tiles are becoming more and more popular in Russia and other CIS countries. Until recently, such a roofing covering was in demand only in Europe, and in our country, all too often there were either metal or bituminous shingles, rather ineptly imitating the real one. What changed? Import to the market of foreign natural tiles, with improved geometry and stunning design!

A house with such a coating looks so advantageous against the background of the surrounding buildings that today there are a lot of people who want to study the installation ceramic tiles and make the roof of your new ancestral nest real armor. And now we will reveal to you all the technical secrets!

Depending on what kind of shingles you choose for your roof, the complexity of its installation will depend. We have prepared for you detailed master classes on how to work with each of the types, which are needed additional tools and what you will have to face in the process.

This is how different the installation of the five most popular types of ceramic tiles is:

Interlocking grooved tiles: laying on spikes

Today, tiles with a lock are actively produced. In their upper part there is a movable zone, or a zone of displacement. Thanks to it, the rows of tiles can be moved along the slope, and at the same time the tightness of the roof is not disturbed at all. This is very convenient if the ceramic tiles are transferred to a new roof, which has a completely different lathing pitch - the coating can be easily adjusted.

The grooved tiles have special spikes on the back side, and they hook it onto the crate during the installation process. In practice, everything is pretty simple!

Here's how to insert the lockable tiles correctly:

Flat roof tiles: a wide variety of shapes

Another beautiful and popular type of tile is the beaver tail, or beaver. According to the configuration of the lower edge, I release it in semicircular, rectangular and triangular. She has no locks, only a profiled spike on the bottom of the tile, which is attached to the batten rail.

Due to the absence of locks, such tiles are ideal for complex roofs, even with bull's-eye lucarnes. Moreover, the beaver is small, and much more material will be needed for 1m 2. Additionally, flat tiles are fixed with screws or nails; for this, two holes are initially provided in it.

By the way, this tile is of all ceramic types Roofs are most suitable for cone-shaped and unusual roofs. And here there is no need to sacrifice a design idea, somewhere hiding rounded edges in order to simplify installation. In fact, the more symmetrical such a substructure is, the more stylish the final result will be.

Your main task is to make sure that the height of the rafters is the same. For this, such a part of the area must be supported by special supports. You will also need high-quality under-roof insulation with increased level protection. Also do not save on the crate, and the larger the step at the rafters, the more often it should be, and nowhere should the distance exceed 30 cm.

Trim the slabs at the top and bottom at the desired locations on a tile cutter. When laying, the side overlap should be from 3.5 cm, and one large tile should overlap three small ones, and so the turret is stacked to the very top. Moreover, it is important that the ranks are independent from each other.

In fact, most of the tiles you will have will be of regular width, but there will also be some corrected to balance all the rows:

S-shaped roof tiles: special hooks

We turn to the textured tile itself - S-shaped, the cross-section of which resembles the letter "S". On the back, you will find hooks with which the tiles cling to the battens of the sheathing. Thanks to them, the tiles are movable, the rows can be moved-apart with an interval of 2 to 4 cm. By the way, do not confuse such a tile with a slotted lock, which also resembles an S-shaped shape, but has profiled locks.

One of the most beautiful and popular S-shaped tiles is Mediterranean:

A traditional S-shaped roof tile, a real classic is the munk nunn, or monk nun. It consists of two parts, the upper of which is called "monk", and the lower "nun".

It is necessary to fix such a tile using special clamps (cleats) or strong wire.

The roof will turn out to be quite heavy, but self-ventilated; when insulating the roof, you will not need to leave a special gap. True, it is not easy to lay such tiles, skill is required, and therefore modern manufacturers produce grooved tiles that effectively imitate munch-nunn, fit easily, and at the same time retain their antique flavor.

The procedure for laying ceramic tiles

Now let's study the technology of laying ceramic tiles on roof slopes. There are many points here!

Step 1. Designing the roof

When purchasing ceramic tiles, find out what additional elements you need: ridge and backbone, ventilation bands and much more. It's good if you have a detailed design of such a roof on hand.

Step 2. Calculation of the required number of tiles

We advise you to accurately calculate the required amount before purchasing the selected tile. The fact is that even in one working day of the plant, batches of roofing ceramics with a rather noticeable in different shades... Literally 1-2 degrees more - and the color is richer, a little less glaze - already another overflow. Therefore, if it suddenly turns out that the tiles are not enough, it will be difficult, and sometimes impossible, to find exactly the same color.

This differs ceramics from cement-sand tiles, which are painted according to one catalog, and which can even be specially produced to order. And therefore, take with a margin - whole copies will be needed in the future, when the roof needs to be repaired.

You need to calculate the tiles like this: usually they are 9-12 pieces for each square meter of the roof (more precisely, check with the selected manufacturer). Divide Your Roof Equally geometric figures, and count the area of ​​each. Now count the number of tiles for each. Then add up and multiply by a factor of 0.1.

Just do not mix up the sequence: first the number of tiles for each slope, then their sum. After all, there is a fairly common mistake when simply the areas of the figures are summed up, and then the number is selected. So you will have a shortage! After all, do not forget that on the ridges you will need to cut the tiles, and it is not a fact that the fragments will be needed somewhere else.

Step 3. Installation of the rafter system

So, as bars for rafter system for ceramic tiles, take those with a section of at least 50x150 mm. Maintain the pitch of the rafter legs 60-90 cm, calculating it according to special roof load tables. Your main task is to maintain the bending strength of the entire rafter system, and therefore take into account the combination of the weight of the tiles themselves, snow and wind effects and random factors, like a person moving along a roof.

Now it is important to place the ridge rail correctly. To do this, mark in advance on the counterbeam Right place, so that before the beginning of this rail from the top point it is from 35 to 45 mm, depending on the angle of the roof slope. And if your slope does not exceed 6 meters in length, then lay a counter-beam 24 mm thick, and if the slope is from 6 to 12 meters - 28 mm thick. If on your roof slopes are more than 12 meters long, then you need a beam with a thickness of 40 mm, and do not skimp on this.

Be especially careful with the top battens. They should not be too close to the ridge, otherwise the air outlet from the roof space will be blocked. Here correct device roofs:

The next step is to lay a vapor-permeable membrane, sufficiently tight, with a horizontal overlap of 150 mm. Attach a counter-beam to it, which should eventually connect in the ridge part. To successfully determine the distance between the counter-battens, lay out a double row of 12 tiles on the ground in advance, with the top side with a vertical offset.

Make sure all of the front folds interlock. Now you need to sum up the dimensions for placement and offset between the first and last tiles, and divide by 20. Usually, the average pitch of the slats is 36 cm + - 3 cm.

Now pull the cord in a straight line to mark off the level for the next battens. There is also a popular “dog” device for this, with which the first counter-beam is traced from the overhang, and all other slats are laid along the same distance. Moreover, you can equip the overhang itself in the following three options:

1. The under-groove overhang is suitable for small slope angles. Here, special slots are made in the rafters, and a cornice strip is mounted in them. After that, the counter-beam for the overhang is stuffed and the overhang ridge is set 60 mm high.
2. A hinged beam on wedges is necessary if the length of the rafter leg has been increased. Then on the lower parts of the rafters an additional extension is attached in the form of filly, and on top of them there are wedges, and a hinged bar is already fixed on the wedges. On all this, gutter holders are mounted, on top - a cornice strip and a waterproofing under-roofing film. The lower part of the film is glued to the self-adhesive strip of the apron.
3. An overhang using a metal perforated comb is needed when the rafter leg is longer than 12 meters. Then a cornice strip is attached to the beam, on top of which a waterproofing film is laid with release. Then a comb is mounted with a weight of a metal profile with perforation for ventilation. Take a corner where the perforation area is 62%.

If everything is ready, you can move on to the next item. See how such a crate looks in practice, with a profiled metal overhang:

Step 4. Laying and fixing the tiles

We proceed to laying the tiles themselves. Check the latitude of the roof for symmetry, and begin to mount the tiles from right to left of the end of the slope. Most often, such tiles are fastened with nails through pre-drilled holes, onto clamps, locks and even polyurethane foam(western practice).

If you are at a loss as to how you should act, follow the manufacturer's instructions (usually they write about it and even illustrate it). Even more: if you violate such instructions, then the guarantee for the roof will not apply.

Usually, ceramic tiles are fastened with self-tapping screws around the perimeter, in a checkerboard pattern, and even each, if the project provides for it - it all depends on the slope of the roof. Often, the manufacturer makes special non-through holes on the tiles for this, which do not allow water to pass through.

If you need to make them through, then drill them and fix with a self-lake. Keep in mind that such installation is laborious, and the drills quickly become blunt. Fortunately, today there are many tile models in which the technological holes are easily punched out by the self-tapping screw itself, and they do not need to be drilled.

And every third tile must be secured with an anti-wind clamp. The clamps themselves are now producing anti-wind and special ones to fix the tiles in the area of ​​the ridge and valley. Be sure to put such clamps on the end slopes. For this purpose, a bunch of clamps are taken with them to the roof and used during the installation process:

Let us dwell separately on the anti-wind clamps (clamps). For thousands of years, mankind has been improving the technology of ceramic tiled roof to achieve its reliability and high performance. Although, it would seem, what else can you think of? After all, we are talking about a solid shard!

How exactly can it be laid in a different way, or fixed in a different way? In fact, there are ways. For example, manufacturers have come up with special anti-wind clamps to ceramic roof not only resisted all the elements of nature, but was literally inseparable even during severe hurricanes.

Here are the standard clamps for fixing flat and cut tiles:

Moreover, you can easily cope with such additional fasteners yourself. Here is an example where the clamp is simply folded by hand:

And in working with such a clamp you will need a hammer:

Remember also that you still need to think about where exactly you will put the ventilation shingles. So, if your roof is up to 4.5 meters long, such are not needed (or at your request), if more, then:

• on a roof up to 12 meters long - one row of ventilation tiles among three rows from the ridge;
• on the roof from 12 meters at the height of the second tile from the ridge, the first row is ventilation.

Ventilation tiles are significantly different from ordinary tiles, so you will not confuse them.

Step 5. Installation of the ridge and ridges

Moving on to the ridge and ridges. In these places, it is necessary to install universal holders on the counter-beam (usually supplied in a set from the manufacturer), and fix it with self-tapping screws. Such holders are usually adjustable in height, and the height itself depends on the angle of inclination of the slope and ranges from 9 to 11 cm.

At this stage, consider ventilation of the ridge space. For this purpose, a sealing tape with holes is produced today, ridge ventilation grilles are also suitable. Fasten the ridge tiles with a special bracket, which is also included in the kit.

When working with the chimney, use a special self-adhesive corrugated material. You will have to cut some of the shingles in order to lay them in front of the chimney. In this case, be sure to process the edges of the edge, which will be joined to metal strips, wall or roofing films. In the place where the insulation will adjoin the chimney, fix the clamping bar. In its upper part, you need to treat the seam with a colorless sealant.

If the length of the wall adjacent to the roof is more than 3 meters, then deepen the lower plank to the crate 15 mm downward, inward. This will increase the depth of the sidewall mining, and further it will be easy for you to reach the required density sheathing. Fasten the lower abutment bar to the crate with clamps. If you are not comfortable working with ordinary tiles here, use half-pieces - this type is also supplied. And close the two-wave already.

Working with a ridge is almost the same as a ridge. Here the last tile must be cut and try to fit as perfectly as possible to the rib. And here, too, ventilation is needed, so ventilation tiles are installed on the ridge.

All backbone shingles must be cut in a straight line that is parallel to the ridge. Moreover, cut the shingles not on the roof, because sawdust will fly off, and such can damage the surface of the shingles. A grinder with a diamond will help you with this. cutting disc... After that, fix the rail on the ridge and lay the ventilation tape:

When the tiles are ready, lay them on the ridge, and close the junction of the lines with a tee - this is another type of ceramic tile, which is called hip.

Step 6. Laying tiles in the valley

It is also important to take care of the valley. Even before laying the waterproofing, the inner joint of the roof must be reinforced with edged boards. When laying, its width should be at least 35 cm from the center of the valley.

Fasten the bars with self-tapping screws sealing rubber to avoid leaks. To secure the valley gutter, the batten should be cut 15 mm deep. The very width of the valley depends on the length of the inner joint of the roof. Also be guided by the following points:

• For a slope up to 4 m in length, 25 cm is enough on one side. When unfolded, such a valley will be 55 cm wide, with a 5 cm gap on each side.
• When the valley is up to 8 m long, the width should be increased to 67 cm.

In the place of the valley, you need to cut the tiles to the desired size. Also, such tiles need to be drilled and hooked with a special clamp made of acid-resistant steel. Here is a good video tutorial on how to equip such a valley correctly and avoid annoying mistakes:

Also, if the valley is more than 6 meters long, you will need ventilation tiles.

Step 7. Dormer construction

Often, ceramic tiles are laid on stylish house with additional elements such as dormers, especially lucarne. In this place, as well as around the chimney, it is necessary to strengthen the counter-grill. In the upper part of the arc, it is placed at a minimum distance of 363 mm, and if the slope is straight, then the counter-beam must be moved apart at a maximum distance of 369 mm.

Installation of ceramic tiles on a skylight is quite difficult, but if you wish, you can figure it out. To do this, find the extreme points at an angle of 90 °, and transfer them along the roof slope to the uppermost counter-beam of the roof. In each prepared tile you need to make two drilled holes to secure with self-tapping screws.

If the dormer is located at the edge of the overhang, which is slightly raised, then drain pipes must be installed.

To lay ceramic tiles on the hatch, the so-called roofing wedge is used - a special set of 17 elements that are laid in 10 rows. It is so easy to create a conical surface.

Believe me, when the roof of your house is ready, you will feel an incomparable sense of satisfaction. After all, now the roof will serve you for at least half a century, and it was you who completed the construction of your house, laid every tile with your own hands, and this is what makes a house a Home.

Installation of tiles on a circular crate

No roof covering can compare with the way ceramic tiles look on a circular sheathing. Often it is for this purpose that they acquire it just in order to complete some beautiful architectural object. Moreover, laying on such rafters is actually not difficult.

Installation is started from the bottom up, as in the work with conventional tiles. Each next is laid with an overlap on the underlying and side. Only here each subsequent tile from row to row decreases in width, and each row already consists of fewer and fewer elements. As a result, all one converges at one top point of the roof:

And believe me, the magnificent view of such a roof is worth any effort!

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It will not be a secret for anyone that one of the most popular and, no less important, quality materials used for roofing is a ceramic tile roof. Thanks to this natural covering, living conditions in the house remain comfortable at any time of the year, both in summer and in winter. Moreover, the assortment of material profiles is wide, the color palette is also varied. It is also a well-known fact that the device of a roof made of ceramic tiles is possible on those roofs that have the most complex shapes and curved planes, in connection with which the popularity of the coating during the construction country cottages only increases.

Nevertheless, the installation process should be approached extremely carefully, since ceramics is a rather fragile material, and the very considerable weight of ceramic tiles only complicates the work of its construction.

That is why, before proceeding directly to installation work, you should familiarize yourself in more detail with such material as ceramic tiles, the characteristics of which require a special approach. So, it is recommended to apply the coating on those roofs, roof slope which ranges from 10 to 90 degrees. If there are slopes with an angle of 10 to 22 degrees, then it is necessary to lay an additional waterproofing layer, usually represented by a modified roll coating. If the tiles are laid on a roof with a slope of more than 50 degrees, then it must be additionally secured with screws. In addition, for that, a reinforced frame must be made, especially for which a surface must be equipped and an installation technology corresponding to the profile must be selected.

Laying the rafter system and roof pie

When installing a ceramic tile roof, it is important to carry out the installation correctly. supporting structure, which consists, first of all, in strengthening the rafter legs, since the load on the roof covering is 40 - 60 kilograms per 1 m². Therefore, a well-dried wood (maximum 15% moisture) should be used as the material for the rafters. The cross-section of the timber should be 50x150, and the timber with a cross-section of 60x180 will help to further strengthen the strength of the structure. When calculating the distance between the rafter legs, it should be remembered that the longer they are, the less there should be a step between them.

After installing the rafter system, it is necessary to equip a heater equipped with a vapor barrier. Tightness will be given by construction tape, which must be glued to the material. The rafter end is equipped with a counter-lattice, which provides a ventilation gap of 50 millimeters between the insulation and waterproofing layer, due to which the space under the roof is provided with normal air access. After that, waterproofing should be laid on the counter-lattice and the lathing, which is the basis for roofing.

So, laying ceramic tiles is invariably accompanied by the installation of a lathing, which has a very great importance when constructing a roof. It is based on a wooden beam with a cross section of 40x40 or 40x50 millimeters. The width of the board of the eaves, which should fit 20-30 millimeters higher than the rest, can be 100 millimeters. Thus, the laying of the tiles on the slope will be flat, and the space under the roof will be ventilated.

Then it is necessary to calculate the step of stuffing the material onto the rafter legs. The easiest way to do this is to subtract the installation overlap from the width of the tile. The indicator will be approximately 310 - 345 millimeters, and the width of the tiles is 400 millimeters. The lines should be marked with a cord attached to the counter-lattice.

Laying ceramic tiles

When working with a material such as ceramic tiles, the sizes and types of which directly affect the installation technology, you should know the varieties of this coating.

Today construction market offers the following options:

• flat roof tiles. It should be laid from the bottom up, and you can immediately have 2 - 3 layers;
• grooved shingles. Fits from left to right;
• groove tiles. Laying starts from the eaves and works upward.

The construction of the rafter structure of the pitched roof is carried out in accordance with the norms and requirements of SNiP in force in Russia.

Particular attention should be paid to the climatic features of the region where the building is located. Both wind and snow loads (in winter time) vary significantly depending on geographic location.

Roofing material such as shingles is intended only for pitched roofs... MetroTile® composite shingles can be used for roofs with a slope of at least 12 degrees.

Modern architectural solutions often provide for a complex roof configuration, where some elements have a smaller slope than the main slopes. In such areas of the roof, composite shingles can only be used for decorative purposes if there is one hundred percent waterproofing.

Figure 5-1.1 shows general scheme constructions. Waterproofing is placed on top of the rafters, which are sawn vertically. Canvases waterproofing material they are mounted horizontally, from the eaves from bottom to top, with vertical overlaps of at least 150 mm and horizontal overlaps of about 100 mm. At the same time, as the specialists of the Stroymet company note, the waterproofing should sag between the rafters by 100-200 mm.

Docking of the waterproofing material canvases is carried out on the rafters. The very first canvas should hang from the edge of the rafters by at least 10 centimeters. Near the ridge of the roof, the waterproofing is not brought to the ridge itself by about 10 centimeters. This is necessary for roof ventilation.

Pitched roof has two ventilation ducts - VK-1 and VK-2 (see Fig. 5.1-2). The first is located above the waterproofing, and the second is below.

Rice. 5.1-2 - A

Rice. 5.1-2 - B

VK-1 is formed by a counter-lattice, for which bars with a cross section of 50 by 50 mm are usually used. The lower end of the counter-lattice should protrude beyond the edge of the rafter by a distance of up to 4 centimeters.

If the angle of inclination of the slope is less than 20 degrees, then it is recommended to use a bar of 50 by 75 mm for the counter-lattice. In this case, the section ventilation duct VK-1 increases as shown in Fig. 5.1-2-B.

Elements such as valleys can be provided in the roof structure. Taking their name from the old Russian narrow and long vessels, roof valleys help to quickly remove excess moisture from the roof - including in the case of prolonged slanting rains.

If there are valleys in the roof project, then it is necessary to start the installation of waterproofing and counter-laths from them.

When installing heat and waterproofing, it should be borne in mind that between them there must be a ventilation duct, which is designated in the diagrams as VK-2. It is necessary so that condensation does not form on the roof, which, when sub-zero temperature turns to ice.

Only if the newest Tyvek superdiffusion material is used in the waterproofing of the roof, the arrangement of the VK-2 ventilation duct is optional.

Installation of the lathing

The roof lathing with a distance between the rafters up to 1 meter (in Fig. 5.2-1 it is indicated by the letter "W", that is, the step of the rafters) is made of bars with a cross section of 50x50 millimeters. In the event that the step of the rafters is larger, the cross-section of the sheathing bars should also be increased. At the same time, the moisture content of the wood from which the crate is constructed cannot be higher than 20% of the dry weight.

The purlins are mounted from the bottom up. In fig. 5.2-1 the lower bar is designated with the number 1, and the upper one - 4. The lowest bar is attached 2 cm from the end of the grid (see callout I in the same figure), and the first row of tiles from the bottom is fixed on it.

The bars used in the lathing must cover at least 2 spans between the rafters in length, and the lower edges of the adjacent rows of the lathing must be strictly 370 mm apart from each other. This is exactly the length of the standard composite shingle sheet in all five MetroTile® collections. Consequently, only such a step between the battens allows you to create a lock at the joints of the tile sheets, which plays a key role both in functional terms (waterproofing the roof and its protection from wind loads), and in aesthetic (attractive appearance).

Figure 5.2-1 shows the templates with which you can accurately adjust the distance between the battens. They are quite simple to manufacture and greatly simplify the work.

The distance from the top row of the roof sheathing to the ridge of the roof is a special parameter that is determined separately in each project. In fig. 5.2-1 (callouts II and III) it is designated with the letter "A". The ideal can be called such a rafter length at which this parameter will also be 370 mm, but other options are possible, which are described in more detail below.

Let's dwell especially on the ridge bars of the sheathing:

• Callout II of Figure 5.2-1 shows the fastening of the semicircular ridge elements. In this case, the lathing bars are placed at a distance of 13 cm on either side of the roof ridge.
• If ribbed elements of the ridge are used, then the sheathing bars should be trimmed and placed 120 mm from the ridge, as shown in callout III.
• In the presence of valleys, the purlins should be located at a distance of 18 centimeters from the center line of the valley.

Work on the eaves of the roof begins with the installation of a eaves board 40 millimeters thick. The cornice board is firmly nailed to the rafters.

If the project provides for the installation of gutters, then brackets for gutters are fixed on the eaves board (Fig. 5.3-1, callout II). If the creation of gutters is not planned, then a condensate drip must be installed on the eaves board, which can be made from the eaves strip, as shown in Figure 5.3-2. When calculating the need for materials, the specialists of the Stroymet company note that the consumption of the cornice bar at the same time increases by about two times.

At the next stage, the first cornice element from the edge is fastened with 4 nails. Then, in the same way, the following cornice elements are installed with an overlap of at least 10 centimeters.

Important!

Since from correct installation The reliability of the roof waterproofing and the functionality of the under-roof ventilation directly depend on the elements of the cornice; during the work, you must make sure of the following:

1. The cornice board is covered from above with a waterproofing film, and at the same time, a free drain of condensate into the gutter or drip is ensured.
2. The dropper of the cornice plank is brought out into the drainage system.
3. Between the waterproofing layer and cornice element there is sufficient space for air flow into the under-roof ventilation duct, indicated by a dotted line in fig. 5.3-1 (callouts I and II), like VK-1.
4. The cornice lining has channels that provide air flow into the under-roof ventilation channel, indicated by a dotted line in the same figure as VK-2.

Installation of tiles on the roof slope

Laying of sheets of composite tiles is carried out with an overlap in such a way that the lower row goes under the upper one. After one row of sheets is fixed on the upper side, these sheets should be lifted in order to bring the sheets of the next (lower) row under them. After that, the top of the new sheets is nailed to the sheathing bars along with the bottom of the sheets of the higher row.

Tiled sheets are staggered with lateral overlap and offset. In fig. 5.4-1 lateral overlap is indicated by B and offset by S.

Different collections of MetroTile® composite tiles have their own recommendations for calculating offset and overlap parameters. In some cases, the basis for the calculation is an integer number of shingle waves, in others - Exact size in millimeters.

Rice. 5.4-1 - A

Rice. 5.4-1 - B

In overlapping areas, a maximum of three sheets of composite tiles are allowed to converge.

The following diagrams (Fig. 5.4-1, A and B) show the order of laying the sheets, depending on the prevailing wind direction in a given area. Since the entire roof structure is subject to constant wind loads, it is extremely important to take into account the direction of the wind when installing the tiles!

The fastening of shingles to the lathing also depends on the selected collection. The sequence of nailing and specific points into which they should be driven are shown in Figure 5.4-2 - it should be noted that nails 1-4 are used if a new sheet of tiles on the left side is superimposed on the previous one. If the sheet takes the last place in the row, then its free edge is attached with a nail 4a.

The nails are driven in at an angle of 45 ° to the surface of the sheet (Fig. 5.4-2, callout I). This should be done manually, and you need to stand on the surface of the already mounted tile and move along it as shown in Fig. 5.4-3.

In order that the nails do not stand out against the background of the decorative coating of the tiles, they can be painted over acrylic paint and covered with basalt dressing. Both are included in the repair kit.

Rice. 5.4-4 - A

Rice. 5.4-4 - B

As mentioned above, the top row of ridge tiles, unlike the rest of the rows, does not have a fixed size. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation of this row of sheets, it is necessary to accurately measure the distance between the upper bar of the sheathing on the slope and the ridge bar.

If the distance (in Fig. 5.4-4 - A it is indicated by the letter "A") is 370 mm, then top sheets shingles can be fixed in the same way as all the previous ones.

The distance A from 250 to 370 mm also allows the use of whole tile sheets in the top row. However, at the same time, one row is shifted to another, and Stroymet specialists advise taking care of maintaining the required values ​​of the maximum snow and wind load. For this purpose, not four, but eight nails should be hammered into the sheet, both from the top and from the bottom (see Fig. 5.4-4 - B).

Otherwise, from the top side, the sheet is attached in the usual way, while from below, nails must be driven into the top of the sheet profile. In this case, a sealant is placed between the sheets.

Rice. 5.4-4 - C

The most difficult situation is when the distance A is less than 250 mm. This eliminates the possibility of using whole shingles in the top row. Therefore, the sheets need to be shortened. How to do this is shown in Fig. 5.4-4 - C.

In order to prevent deformation of the sheets or to reduce it, you should first make a fold at a distance A from the edge of the sheet. The fold and cut lines are marked on the sheet (the second is 50 mm further than the first) and then, using a hand or special tool, the sheet is folded up.

Both manual and special tools can be used to cut the sheet.

Shortened shingles are nailed to the upper purlins with nails - 8 pieces per sheet.

On the pediment, the roofing sheets must be mounted flush with the ends of the purlins, as shown in fig. 5.5-1. The edges of the sheets should be bent upwards at right angles using a manual bending tool (at a distance of about 30-40 mm from the edge). At this point, a universal self-adhesive seal is glued to the sheets (Fig. 5.5-2 and 5.5-3).

The most important element of the pediment is the wind board, which has a cross section of 25 by 130 millimeters and is attached to the ends of the sheathing bars with nails (Fig. 5.5-3).

Important! The wind board should be installed in such a way that when installing the end strip, its curly teeth only slightly touch the surface of the tile sheets.

Installation of end plates is carried out from the bottom up. At the bottom strip - the first from the cornice - the end should be closed with a special plug (Fig. 5.5-4).

The end plate plug must be inserted inside it itself, sealed with silicone and secured with four self-tapping screws.

Before attaching the end strips, they must be placed on the end board and only after making sure that they are all laid out correctly and evenly can you start fixing.

Each plank is nailed to the wind board with five or six nails.

Rice. 5.5-5 - A

Rice. 5.5-5 - B

For decorative purposes, the end strip on the pediment can be replaced with a semicircular ridge.

In Figure 5.5-5 - A, you can see the cross-section of the end plate attachment unit on the pediment. In fig. 5.5-5 - B shows a special case where the total thickness roofing cake is more than 130 mm. It requires inclusion in the design additional element- an apron, which is made from a flat roofing sheet and placed under the end strip, as shown in the diagram.

The ridge roof elements are installed with an overlap of 100 mm. If the ridge is semicircular, then its elements are placed with an overlap of 45 mm and form a kind of lock.

Both rib and semicircular elements are nailed to the ridge bars of the sheathing with 50 mm nails in accordance with the diagram in Fig. 5.6-1 or 5.6-2.

For the ridge of a pitched roof, Stroymet specialists recommend using a bent flat sheet as shown in fig. 5.6-3. The bending angle depends on the thickness of the rafters and the slope of the roof slope. If necessary (as a rule, for aesthetic reasons), semicircular ridge elements can be fixed on top of such a ridge.

To prevent the penetration of water and snow into the space between the upper Boer crate and the ridge elements, it is recommended to put a universal seal in this place.

The elements of the semicircular ridge should be positioned as shown in fig. 5.6-4 taking into account the prevailing direction of wind flows.

The ends of the semicircular and ribbed skates can be closed with special covers (Fig. 5.6-5).

Hip roofs have triangular slopes, which creates some specific difficulties when installing composite shingles on such a roof.

Figure 5.7-1 shows a diagram of the installation of beams with a section of 50 by 50 mm on top of the roof lathing along the hip ridge. If the ridge is semicircular, then the distance between the outer edges of these bars should be 150-160 mm, if the ridge is ribbed, then 120-130 mm is enough.

The sheets of MetroTile® composite shingles that will be adjacent to the hip must be trimmed as shown in fig. 5.7-2. Before cutting, to reduce deformations, the sheet should be folded (Fig. 5.7-3). The fold line should correspond to the required sheet size, and the cut line should be marked with a 50 mm allowance. You need to bend the sheet vertically up, at an angle of 90 degrees. It is recommended to measure and mark the fold and cut lines directly on the roof, while preparation is best done on the ground.

Before installing the ridge elements, additional seals must be laid along the hip ridge bar. Otherwise, the installation of hip ridge skates does not differ from the installation of ridge elements on a conventional roof (in accordance with the recommendations outlined in the previous section).

The features of installing semicircular ridge elements on a hip roof are shown in Fig. 5.7-4.

On both sides of the longitudinal axis of the valley, it is necessary to install wooden blocks with a section of 50 by 50 millimeters. On top of these bars, waterproofing is placed, which in no case should be pulled and secured with nails.

At 5 centimeters from the bars under the valley, counter-lattice bars are installed with a sawn-out part with a section of 25 by 150 mm, which is a quarter of a bar. A support board under the valley should be laid here, the section of which is exactly the same - 25x150 mm.

The ends of the purlins coming into the valley are attached to the support board and cut at a distance of 200 mm from the axis of the valley. At the same time, cavities are formed under them, which are necessary for removing condensate from the under-roof space and ensuring air circulation in it.

The valley elements are attached to the support board with 40mm self-tapping screws. The installation of the elements starts from the bottom of the roof. In this case, the upper self-tapping screws are located 30 mm from the edge of the element and at the maximum distance from the axis of the valley.

The following elements are pushed into the previous ones, and the overlap must be at least 150 mm. They are also screwed onto the support board with self-tapping screws.

Stroymet specialists recommend installing a universal seal along the side of the valley.

Before starting installation, you can bend the side edge of the roof sheet adjacent to the valley downward, as shown in Fig. 5.8-2. In this case, the distance from the valley to the fold of the sheet should be about 10-15 mm.

Attention! When working on the design of a tiled roof, it should be borne in mind that valley elements are supplied without basalt dressing.

All ventilation and heating pipes overlooking the roof must be plastered prior to the installation of the shingles. No ledges or overlaps are allowed on pipes.

The installation diagram of roofing elements on the roof sections adjacent to the pipes is shown in Fig. 5.9-1 and 5.9-2. On the first of them, you see section A - in a plane that is parallel to the rafters (on the leader on the left you can see how it looks on the scale of the entire building).

The apron shown in the diagram is attached to a pipe or to a wall using self-tapping screws with dowels.

Figure 5.9-2 shows section B. Here the section plane is perpendicular to the roof rafters:

Installation of tiles on the external and internal fracture of the slope

If the roof slope has an external fracture, then in this place the roofing sheets are mounted in accordance with the diagram in Fig. 5.10-1.

In fig. 5.10-2 shows how to mount composite shingles on an internal slope fracture. At the same time, the step between the lathing bars at the fracture is, as a rule, more than the usual 370 mm. The figure in the diagram is indicated conditionally - the actual distance depends on the angle of inclination of both slopes and is specified when installing the battens.

Installation of end and side abutment to the wall

The junction to the wall is made in the same way as the junction to the pipe - that is, in accordance with the diagrams in fig. 5.9-1 and fig. 5.9-2 and the materials of the corresponding chapter.

Installation of complex roof fragments

The MetroTile® flat roof sheet is suitable for covering difficult roof areas such as tapered or semicircular roofs. This sheet must be cut into pieces. the desired shape, which are then fixed to a solid sheathing made of edged boards, moisture resistant plywood, oriented strand board (OSB) or other materials.

Installation of a roof window

Skylights, which are installed in the roof openings, tiled MetroTile® must have a flashing specially designed for high profile roofing materials. At Stroymet you can buy full set roof window - with flashing and elements for sealing. We offer windows for attic and. Also, when preparing the base for the installation of the MetroTile® roof, it is necessary to take into account in advance the correspondence of the dimensions of the roof window, the distance between the rafters and the battens.

The dimensions of the opening for the attic window are calculated so that it is 40-60 millimeters wider and 45 millimeters higher than the window itself (Figure 5.13).

In addition, you should prepare the battens directly adjacent to the window frame so that the level of the flashing is 25 millimeters below the battens. For this, a quarter is selected in the corresponding bars to a depth of 25 mm and to the width of the window flashing.

At the bottom of the window, the roof sheathing must be reinforced. Specific gain parameters are usually specified in the supplier's instructions. roof windows.

Applying MetroTile® Transparent Sheets

The device of roof windows is the only acceptable way to ensure the penetration of light rays through the insulated roof.

However, in the event that we are talking about the construction of awnings and outdoor terraces and also about lighting cold attics, you can use another method of lighting - using transparent MetroTile® sheets.

In their shape and size, they do not differ from ordinary ones. roofing sheets, therefore, their installation is not fraught with any difficulties and does not require the use of additional accessories. The peculiarity of transparent sheets is that they are made of polymeric material - polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Thanks to this, they let light through.

If the slope of the roof slope does not reach extreme values ​​of more than 40 degrees, the very structure of the MetroTile® composite tile prevents an avalanche of snow masses.

However, in some cases, the installation of snow guards is required in accordance with SNiPs. They are also needed at too large slope angles.

Snow guards can be mounted in accordance with the diagrams in Figures 5.14-1 and 5.14-2.

MetroTile ® roofing materials can be successfully used not only in the construction of new buildings, but also during the renovation of existing ones, including the installation of tiles over the existing roof. If the existing roof is dilapidated, leaking or morally obsolete, then it is not necessary to remove it.

Composite shingles can be installed as on an old roof from corrugated sheet, and on a seam roof or shingles.

A counter-lattice on a corrugated sheet is made of bars of such a section that their upper edge is higher than the crests of the corrugated sheet. The step between the bars of the counter-lattice should not exceed 500 mm (Fig. 5.15-1).

It is even easier to mount the counter grill on flexible or folded tiles. Here, standard bars with a cross section of 50 by 50 millimeters are used with a step of exactly 500 mm (Fig. 5.15-2).

If the dilapidated roof is leaking, Stroymet specialists recommend laying an additional layer of waterproofing material above it, as shown in Figure 5.15-3.

If the old roof has a bituminous coating, then additional insulation may be necessary (Fig. 5-15-4).

In all cases, a batten is mounted on top of the counter battens, to which the sheets of MetroTile ® composite tiles are attached in accordance with the instructions in this manual.

The technology of laying natural roofing tiles has a number of features that must be observed when performing work. Ceramic was used to cover houses hundreds of years ago, but until now it has not lost its relevance and popularity among homeowners, despite modern roofing materials that are capable of sufficiently high quality imitation of a natural tile covering. But, unfortunately, not every owner can afford the installation of ceramic tiles, since they are elite materials. In addition to the high cost of the material itself, the work on its installation will also cost a lot, because a beautifully and correctly laid tile requires the participation of highly qualified craftsmen.

Features of a ceramic tile roof

Like any other natural material The fired clay roof tile has many positive characteristics. But it is not devoid of its own shortcomings, the main of which is its massiveness. The weight of the ceramic coating is from 40 to 70 kg per square meter, which implies the strengthening of the rafter structure. This is achieved either by increasing the cross-section of the rafters, which is not at all necessary, or by decreasing their pitch. But in both cases, material costs increase significantly.

Installation of natural tiles with a roof slope of up to 22 degrees requires an additional waterproofing layer. And with a slope of more than 50 degrees, the laying technology requires additional fastening of the tile elements with screws or clamps.

Ceramic tiles are capable of creating perfect roofing systems and high quality coatings on roofs of any architectural form.

Additional fittings, on the one hand, reduce the time required to complete the work, but some of them, on the contrary, complicate the installation of the roof and increase the time spent on its installation. The set of piece shingles includes the following items:

• privates;
• ridge;
• checkpoints;
• ventilation;
• half-hearted;
• lateral;
• pediment;
• decorative.

Among the advantages of shingles and tiled roofs are:

• durability (over 100 years);
• noiselessness;
• environmental friendliness;
• fire resistance;
• frost resistance;
• absence of static electricity on the surface;
• does not require periodic painting;
• does not respond to biological influences.

In addition to its high weight, the fragility of ceramics is also a negative characteristic, therefore, when transporting and laying tiles, it should be treated carefully and carefully.

Calculation of materials for a tiled roof

Still at the stage design work calculate the materials required for work. Professionals use for these purposes special computer programs that allow them to determine as accurately as possible how much natural tiles are needed, what additional elements will be required to install, how many fasteners you need to purchase.

If desired approximate calculations the basic materials required for a tiled roof can be produced by yourself.

Shingles

The dimensions of the piece shingles are indicators of the total and usable area. To determine its amount, you need to know:

• the length and width of each slope, taking into account the slope of the roof and the size of the overhangs;
• the useful width of the material specified by the manufacturer;
• the amount of overlap when laying tiled rows, depending on the slope of the roof and affecting the useful length of the tiles.

Installation of ceramic tiles with a slope of up to 25 degrees is carried out with an overlap of 100mm, from 25 to 35 degrees - 75mm, and more than 45 degrees - 45mm. These indicators are subtracted from the total length of the piece shingles, resulting in the effective length, which is multiplied by the useful width and the useful area of ​​one element is found.

Next, the number of tiles in one square meter is calculated. For this, the unit is divided by the usable area, expressed in square meters. To find out the total amount of material, the resulting figure is multiplied by square meters roofing, and the results are rounded up.

It should be noted that calculations must be made for each slope separately. When laying tiles, some parts have to be cut, which ultimately increases the amount of material required for installation.

There is a more accurate but laborious calculation method. The length of the slope determines the number of tile tiles that will be laid on the roof, based on the effective length of the element. This indicator determines the number of rows of tiles. Next, the number of tiles in one row is calculated.

The number of rows is multiplied by the number of tiles in a row, and the result is rounded up. In this case, it is recommended to add one row of shingles for each slope for trimming and possible fight. For complex roofs, the area is divided into simple geometric shapes.

Additional elements for gables and skates are calculated based on the length of the structures, not forgetting, at the same time, to round the result upwards.

Waterproofing

On roofs with a slope of up to 22 degrees, a waterproofing layer is arranged. For this, it is recommended to use a roll-up membrane, laying it along the ridge and overhangs from bottom to top with an overlap of 10 cm. It is also required to leave overlaps of 15 cm on the gables and overhangs, not forgetting about overlaps of 15-20 cm at the locations of the protruding corners. Gaps are also left in areas adjacent to walls, chimneys, ventilation shafts, dormer windows, etc.

Membrane sheets do not allow moisture to pass inside, but facilitate its removal to the outside. In places of overlap, tape is glued onto the film or fixed with a stapler to the crate. Along the perimeter and in the places of abutments, it is fixed with roofing nails, or wooden slats... The gaps are allowed to be cut only after the installation of the tiles.

Calculation of the amount of waterproofing material can be made using a simplified formula. To do this, the total roof area, taking into account the slope, is multiplied by a factor of 1.4.

Rafters and lathing

Tile roofs can only be installed on a sufficiently strong roof structure... This requirement is based on the large weight of the tiles themselves, to which, in the calculations, a snow load is added, depending on the climatic zone.

As a rule, more massive beams are not used to strengthen the rafter legs, they optimal size is 75 * 150mm. The strength of the structure is increased by reducing the pitch of the rafters, which is selected in the range from 60 to 90 cm.

The lathing for ceramic tiles is made of square beams with a side size of 50mm or rectangular - 40 * 60mm. Lumber is laid along the eaves, the width of which is 15-20mm wider than that of ordinary elements.

The number of horizontal battens of the sheathing should correspond to the number of rows of tiles plus an additional eaves row.

The layout of the location of the beams is made using a coated cord and templates that coincide with the useful height of the tile tiles. If it is necessary to dock the horizontal rails, their connections are placed on the rafter legs.

Fasteners

• in places subject to increased wind load;
• the whole row along the cornice;
• on the gables and along the ridge;
• on roofs with a slope of more than 50 degrees (through one element).

Based on these requirements, the fasteners are calculated.

Installation of ceramic tiles

To ensure the normal operation of a tile roof, you should take care in advance to ensure its ventilation. The presence of a waterproofing layer implies the device of two air gaps, one of which must be located between the thermal and waterproofing, and the second between waterproofing membrane and roofing.

Such a design promotes good under-roof ventilation and does not allow moisture to accumulate in the wooden elements of the roof and in the insulation.

In the first case, the gap is provided by installing the lathing or installing additional bar along the ridge. But the need for air gap absent if a membrane film is installed as waterproofing. In the second case, the gap appears due to the counter-lattice.

Air inflow occurs through ventilation holes located at the bottom of the slopes. The outflow of air masses is carried out through aerators and special openings located in ridge construction... With a large roof area, it is recommended to organize ventilation windows on the pediments, which facilitate the rapid ventilation of the under-roof space.

Before laying the tiles, they are evenly laid out over the entire surface of the roof in stacks of 5-6 pieces. This must be done on all slopes at once so that the rafter structure cannot be skewed under the weight of heavy tile tiles.

First, the top row of tiles is laid out along the ridge and the bottom row along the overhang, without attaching the tiles to the crate. With a successful layout, the eaves row is fixed and the installation of the tiles is continued from bottom to top in the direction from right to left. The material is fixed in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Next, the ridge and pediment parts are laid.

They are mounted on a ridge with an edge edged board so that it does not touch the ridge elements, except for the attachment points. At the intersection of the pediment and the ridge, the tiles are adjusted in place by trimming ceramic parts. It is recommended to cut it on the ground with a grinder.