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It will not be a secret for anyone that one of the most popular and, no less important, quality materials used for roofing is a ceramic tile roof. Thanks to this natural covering, living conditions in the house remain comfortable at any time of the year, both in summer and in winter. Moreover, the assortment of material profiles is wide, color palette also varied. It is also a well-known fact that the device of a ceramic tile roof is possible on those roofs that have the most complex shapes and curved planes, and therefore the popularity of the coating in the construction of country cottages is only increasing.

Nevertheless, the installation process should be approached extremely carefully, since ceramics is a rather fragile material, and the very considerable weight of ceramic tiles only complicates the work of its construction.

That is why, before proceeding directly to installation work, you should familiarize yourself in more detail with such material as ceramic tiles, the characteristics of which require a special approach. So, it is recommended to apply the coating on those roofs, the roof slope of which is from 10 to 90 degrees. If there are slopes with an angle of 10 to 22 degrees, then it is necessary to lay an additional waterproofing layer, usually represented by a modified roll coating. If the tiles are laid on a roof with a slope of more than 50 degrees, then it must be additionally secured with screws. In addition, for that, a reinforced frame must be made, especially for which a surface must be equipped and an installation technology corresponding to the profile must be selected.

Laying the rafter system and roof pie

When a roof made of ceramic tiles is equipped, it is important to correctly install the supporting structure, which consists, first of all, in strengthening the rafter legs, since the load on roof covering is 40 - 60 kilograms per 1 m². Therefore, a well-dried wood (maximum 15% moisture) should be used as the material for the rafters. The cross-section of the timber should be 50x150, and the timber with a cross-section of 60x180 will help to further strengthen the strength of the structure. When calculating the distance between the rafter legs, it should be remembered that the longer they are, the less there should be a step between them.

After installing the rafter system, it is necessary to equip a heater equipped with a vapor barrier. Tightness will be given by construction tape, which must be glued to the material. The rafter end is equipped with a counter-lattice, which provides a ventilation gap of 50 millimeters between the insulation and waterproofing layer, due to which the space under the roof is provided with normal air access. After that, waterproofing should be laid on the counter-lattice and the lathing, which is the basis for the roofing, must be nailed perpendicularly to the rafters.

So, the laying of ceramic tiles is invariably accompanied by the installation of the lathing, which is very important in the construction of the roof. It is based on a wooden beam with a cross section of 40x40 or 40x50 millimeters. The width of the board of the eaves, which should fit 20-30 millimeters higher than the rest, can be 100 millimeters. Thus, the laying of the tiles on the slope will be flat, and the space under the roof will be ventilated.

Then it is necessary to calculate the step of stuffing the material onto the rafter legs. The easiest way to do this is to subtract the installation overlap from the width of the tile. The indicator will be approximately 310 - 345 millimeters, and the width of the tiles is 400 millimeters. The lines should be marked with a cord attached to the counter-lattice.

Laying ceramic tiles

When working with a material such as ceramic tiles, the sizes and types of which directly affect the installation technology, you should know the varieties of this coating.

Today the construction market offers the following options:

• flat roof tiles. It should be laid from the bottom up, and you can immediately have 2 - 3 layers;
• grooved shingles. Fits from left to right;
• groove tiles. Laying starts from the eaves and works upward.

If you have ever considered a solid clay tile roof, you probably wondered: what does all the shards rest on? Do they fly off for an hour? How many people does it take to install natural tiles at such a height, and is it realistic to cope with one or two? And does skill and experience play a big role in such a process?

Such questions always arise from those who decide on this beautiful and age-old roofing. Indeed, with fragile modern counterparts, everything is more or less clear: cut, stick, fasten with a self-tapping screw - and you're done. And what to do with such heavy-weight elements as ceramic tiles, what to fix them for and how to ensure the safety of people below?

Yes, of course, from century to century, roofing masters passed on and improved their experience, but they also baked shards individually and by hand. A modern manufacturers not only set up large-scale production, but also completely changed the approach to the installation of tiles, for which they showed ingenuity and added special accessories.

Where do you start then? We will now try to illustrate the whole process in as much detail as possible.

Let's start with the most important thing - design. In addition to the roof tiles themselves, you will need waterproofing substrates, a cornice overhang and a ridge with a valley:

Think in advance which of these elements you need, how many tiles will go to the slopes (count by area, and for 1 square meter, usually 9-15 shards are consumed).

And also decide right at this stage whether you will use the attic as a living space in the future, because the device itself depends on this. roofing cake:

Stage II. Assembling the rafter system

Competent and high-quality installation is one of essential conditions durability of a tiled roof. Let's take a look at its main stages. Let's start with the preparatory work.

Before laying the tiles, be sure to check the geometry. roof structure, measure the diagonals and compare their lengths. All irregularities must be leveled out, because the tile locks have an extremely small range of motion.

Those. you can't fix flaws with the roofing itself, unlike soft roof, which is able to go around any radius.

Therefore, arm yourself with a two-meter rail or lace, and check all the planes. The deviation should not be more than 5 mm along the length of 2 m. Now, for convenience, lay the tiles in stacks of five to six pieces on opposite slopes to create an even load on the rafters.

If you have decided on a roofing pie, proceed with the construction of the rafter system. Optimal step rafters - up to 75 cm, because the weight of natural tiles is quite significant.

The battens are the base on which the tiles rest, therefore it is important to correctly calculate the pitch of the battens so that you get an integer number of tiles on the roof. Therefore, using a level, make sure that the timber is located strictly on a horizontal surface. Use the uneven bars conifers, without passing knots and wane. For rafters that are installed in increments:

• no more than 75 cm, take bars with a section of 30 by 50 mm;
• exceed 90 cm, the bars are needed 40 by 50 mm;
• if the pitch of the rafters reaches 110 cm, then the bars should be 40 by 60 mm or 50 by 50.

To make the correct marking of the rows, a marking line is used. It is pulled over the marks made.

Especially carefully consider the location of the counter-lattice where the roof window will be located:

Now proceed with the installation eaves or a drip, whose task is to drain condensate and prevent wooden structures from getting wet.

Installation of droppers is generally the simplest of all installation:

Stage III. Arrangement of waterproofing and lathing

Once the base is ready, proceed to the waterproofing device:

• Step 1. On both sides of the valley, nail the bars to the rafter legs.
• Step 2. On top of the counter-lattice, spread waterproofing membrane, always with an inscription and face up.
• Step 3. Trim it along the edge of the eaves with a margin of at least 15 cm. Lay it starting from the lower right corner and fix it with a stapler, aligning it with the drip. Double-sided tape will help you with this.

This is how it all looks in practice:

Now fill the counter-lattice directly to the rafters, over the membrane, with nails at intervals of about 30 cm. Close the ventilation gap under the eaves with light with a perforated ventilation tape.

To find out the optimal position of the bottom support batten, you need to try on the tiles from the bottom row and the gutter bracket. The support batten should be fixed at a distance of 32 to 39 cm from the bottom edge:

At this stage, it is very important to properly waterproof the gable overhangs:

By the way, to make the gable overhangs beautiful, special side tiles are attached to them.

You can also resort to the traditional method by arranging the pediment with carved boards, which are also called pricelinas. They just need to be treated with an antiseptic and protected with a metal apron.

Stage IV. Installation of the gutter

Now install the gutter onto the pre-assembled bracket. Fasten the downpipe clamp to the building wall and assemble the elbows with the connecting elements.

Close the ends of the gutter on the gables with a universal cap-cap so that the gutter does not interfere with the installation of the lower gable tile.

And connect the straight elements of the gutter with a connecting element and close with inner side using clamps that are attached to the additional crate:

Stage V. Working with the valley

Lay the valleys, starting from the eaves, from bottom to top. Once laid, it can be trimmed 3-4 cm to prevent the groove from slipping at the top.

If you need to choose the exact size of the valley, then follow this simple principle:

• if the length of the valley is no more than 4 meters, the width of each half should be 20 cm, and when unfolded, about 55 cm.
• if the valley is long enough, more than 4 meters, then in the unfolded state the steel sheet should be at least 66 cm wide.

Fix the valley to the batten with two screws. Trim the legs on both sides for a tight fit, secure with self-tapping screws, and glue their joint with sealing tape.

Install a self-adhesive foam strip with water-repellent impregnation on each edge of the valley groove.

On both sides of the valley, along the entire eaves overhang, an overhang aero element is attached, which should not enter the valley further than 10 cm from the edge of the groove, in otherwise it will trap debris, fallen leaves and snow melting there.

Make sure that the visible part of the valley is at least 13 and 15 cm. The fact is that if the groove is completely covered with tiles, then it will accumulate rainwater.

Stage VI. Laying tiles on slopes

So, now that everything is ready, try on the pediment shingles on the gable overhang, which should lie with a gap of 1 cm from the frontal board.

On the crate, mark the left edge of the pediment shingles, and to the left of it mark the position of the future columns after 90 cm, at the rate of 30 cm per column.

Use the laces to draw this line over the batten. Now lay out the lower first row of shingles freely, while carefully checking the position of every third shingle against the marks made earlier.

The support spike, which will rest on the frontal board, must be knocked down with a hammer, as in this photo of the master class:

Now fix each tile of the lower row with a self-tapping screw through the holes drilled in the ridge, and lay out the first column of the gable tile along the previously marked vertical line. At the same time, fasten each tile in the upper part with two screws.

After that, lay the tiles on the slope, from bottom to top along the vertical markings applied to the crate:

To navigate a tiled roof, you only need a safety harness - you can step anywhere. Laying and marking tiles on hipped roofs and hip roofs start in the middle of the ramp. To do this, you need to find the middle of the triangle: just from the very top, lay out a vertical row of tiles, right in the center, and now lay the bottom row.

After that, mark the vertical rows where you succeed, and lay the tiles in this way from the bottom up, in rows, starting from the middle of the slope towards the ridges.

Stage VII. Fixing tiles with different methods

Now let's talk about fastening the tiles. Up to 60 degrees, most of the tiles do not need fastening at all, only the lower row on the overhang, the upper ridge rows and the side pediment ones must be fixed.

And they also fix all the trimmed tiles, which are usually located on the valley, ridges and adjoin the walls with dormer windows and hatches. In regions with strong winds shards are additionally secured with wire.

But groove tiles are produced separately, which are also called castle tiles. It has the largest area and profiled shape, and such a tile differs from others in the presence of locks.

The locks consist of two edges, top and side, which are superimposed on adjacent ones, snap into place and provide reliable sealing of the coating. In addition, at the bottom, such a tile has projections, which, during installation, cling to the sheathing bars.

The most popular models of such shingles are the double S-shaped, Dutch and S-shaped Marseilles. Most of them have sliding locks, so that the periods of the shingles can be made as wide or narrow as possible. Thanks to the presence of such sliding locks, the tiles are ideally suited to the existing spacing of the bars, and they do not need to be cut:

In addition, basically all shingles today are produced with two pre-drilled screw holes. They are not end-to-end, it is worth noting.

Therefore, if you decide to fix the shingles, then these holes need to be drilled with a 6 mm drill and fixed in the upper part to the crate with two anti-corrosion screws 4.5 x 50 mm, and at the bottom with anti-wind clamps.

Also, if the slope has a length of more than 4.5 m, it is also necessary to additionally install ventilation tiles on it. It is located in the third row, in 1 meter increments. If the slope is more than 7 m, then the ventilation tiles are placed in two rows:

Also, ventilation tiles are needed where there are chimneys or roof windows, because they create obstacles in the way of air circulation under cover.

Stage VIII. Window bypass and abutment waterproofing

There, natural shingles bypass the skylights, you will most likely need half shingles (unless you calculated everything perfectly). Lay it next to the others and try to close the joints as much as possible.

We have prepared for you a detailed master class for waterproofing the junction of natural tiles to windows and chimneys, so that you can deal with all the intricacies of such work:

Here's another example of how to "fit" a window into a tiled roof:

Stage IX. Trimming tiles for a joint in the valley

To properly lay the shingles in the valley, use the laces on the groove to mark the suspension line so that the overlap of the shingles on the groove is 8-10 cm. Then cut the shingles at an angle along the marked line. Just do not use small triangular shingles that are difficult to fix.

You will need half shingles to slide the column and provide a good fit. Approximate consumption - 1 piece for 2 rows:

For convenience, first number the trimmed shingles and remove them from the sheathing. For shingles, we advise you to take an angle saw with a power of 2 kW and a diamond blade with a diameter of 22.23 cm, which is specially designed for dry cutting. heavy concrete... Protect your eyes with glasses or your face with a respirator.

By the way, accuracy will be achieved on a water-cooled machine. Wash the cut shingles with water to remove dust and let them dry. Since you will not cover the edges with anything, cover them with cold engobe to match the color of the roof - this is sold immediately with tiles.

To properly fix the cut shingles on the ridges, take the special clamps from of stainless steel... Such clamps are produced in two types:

• anti-wind, which attract the shingles to the crate;
• universal, which support the shingles in weight.

The wire fastener is screwed to a nail that is hammered into the nearest lath. And sometimes the wire is used so thick that it itself is hammered directly into the crate instead of a nail.

Stage X. Installation of ridge tiles

To install a natural tile roof ridge, follow our detailed master classes... Here is how the ridge is installed on a ceramic tile roof:

If you are under such a roof residential attic, then use the aerial element, which has the largest cross section for ventilation - "Figarole". If in the under-roof space there is only cold attic, then any other aero element will provide ventilation.

To install the ridge shingles, bend the bar holders so that when installing the bar, the distance from the top edge of the bar to the top edge of the rafter leg coincides with what you measured in advance.

Trim the shingles so that the gap remains 2-3 cm. Attach the trimmed shingles to the battens with corrosion-resistant screws 4.5 and 50 mm, or directly to the ridge with copper wire. Special stainless steel clamps are also suitable.

You will need to put one holder at the end and the beginning. Then pull on the lace and set the intermediate fastener straight over it.

Stage XI. Fixation of the backbone shingles

Start the device of the ridges of the hip roof with the installation of ridge bars. To calculate their height, you need to install two ridge tiles on top of the privates. Begin measuring at the narrow end. The backbone should be below the ridge tile so that it rests on the waves nearby. Between the ridge bar and inner surface Leave the ridge tile at least 1 cm.

Now watch out! Metal mounts the backbone must be bent and installed at the beginning and end of the ridge. Mark the intermediate brackets along the lace in increments of no more than 60 cm.

Install the backbone directly into the mount and secure with nails or self-tapping screws. To ensure ventilation of the roof, trim the tiles on the ridges diagonally with a gap of 1-3 cm from the backbone and secure them with clamps, which fix with screws on the opposite side:

On a triangular ramp, mark the middle of the ramp on the lowest and highest sheathing, and from this mark to the right and left towards the ridges, lay out the bottom row. Lay out all the following rows, starting from the center.

For ventilation of the space under the roof, you can use the rolled material "Figarol". Roll it along the centerline tape and secure with a regular construction stapler, with a step of 30 cm.

Remove the protective tapes from the rubber strips, press the material on the sides with a roller (just do not press the central part). In the upper part of the hip "Figarol" is laid with an overlap on the other slope.

Begin with the installation of the initial backbone shingle with a small overhang, and secure with two screws with plastic washers through the drilled holes in the top and middle of the shingles.

All upper backbone shingles must be trimmed at the top of the hip along the joint line. Simply lay the hip shingles on top and mark their outline on the ridge shingles to be cut 6 cm above this line. Lay out the ridge shingles on the ridge in the same way as along the hip, the only thing is that the shingles that go out to the valley must be trimmed on both sides.

Use a starter spine shingle to decorate the roof ridge beautifully. It should be installed with a small allowance, and fixed with galvanized screws 5x70 or 5x100 mm.

Stage XI. Additional roofing elements

Pay attention to the correct organization of the eaves, which should fit all technical requirements: collect water and provide air access to the under-roof space for high-quality ventilation roofs. And also not be devoid of aesthetic appeal.

Additionally, a ventilation tape and an aero element of the cornice are laid here:

At the finishing stage, the ends of the slopes are closed with a protective strip made of steel sheet. Further along the length of the rafters at the edge of the eaves overhang, an aerial element from birds is fixed, if the rafters are less than 8 meters, and a rigid profile with perforation, the length of the rafters exceeds 8 meters. At the same time it supports the bottom row of shingles.

As you have seen, the old and modern technologies perfectly combine with each other, and allow you to build houses without losing the spirit of their history, while taking only the best from centuries of experience.

The choice of roofing for a bath is a question that is both simple and complex. Even a large number of roofing options offered by manufacturers cannot satisfy everyone, without exception, each bath owner is trying to find his own solution. And we do not have as our goal to give advice on choosing a specific type of roofing, everyone should listen to their opinion - there is no ideal roof, just as there is no and absolutely bad, each has strong and weak sides, very large fluctuations in price and complexity of installation.

The most prestigious and complex are tile coverings, it can be natural ceramic, concrete, with the addition of polymers, dyes, etc. Metal and flexible tiles are considered a cheaper option, although among these types of coverings the difference in price by brand may differ factor of. It all depends on the material, manufacturing technology and final performance characteristics. Variants of coverings with metal and flexible tiles are most often found in bath coverings, and we will dwell on them for now.

To begin with, it is advisable to familiarize yourself a little with brief characteristics cover.

Prices for metal shingles

metal roof tiles

Dignity

Cheapness, quick installation, a wide range of colors and geometric shapes. You can also mention durability, but this indicator depends not only on the brand, but also on the manufacturer. If the tiles are made with gross deviations from generally accepted standards and with violations of technology, then after 6 ÷ 7 years the coating will have to be repaired or changed. Conscientious licensed manufacturers give a guarantee for elite brands of products for 25 years or more.

disadvantages

Noises during heavy rain or hail. The disadvantage is not critical, in the bath no one is going to sleep in a light sleep. And if an attic is made on the second floor, then the mineral wool used to insulate the roof perfectly dampens sound vibrations. Conclusion - for baths, metal tiles are an excellent roof covering.

It is necessary to transport metal tiles only in a horizontal position, the length of the body should be greater than the length of the material. Carefully unload the roof, transfer sheets only in an upright position, do not allow sharp bends.

We will describe the most difficult installation method. metal roof tiles- with a warm roof. Depending on the specific use of the attic space, you can simplify the installation process and skip some operations.

Step-by-step installation instructions

Step 1. Check the correct construction and dimensions of the rafter system. Most of the baths have the simplest gable roof types, it does not take much time to check their dimensions.

How to do it? First, you need to check the diagonals of the rafter system, the difference in values ​​should not exceed two centimeters, such a spread is hidden without problems by additional elements. Next, pull a rope between the extreme rafters, they should all lie in the same plane. Places with deviations should be noted, the deflections are corrected while nailing the battens.

Step 2. If possible, process everything wooden elements rafter system antiseptic agents complex action. They will reliably protect the tree from damage by rot and pests and increase fire safety performance. For a bath, this is an important factor.

Step 3. Laying waterproofing.

It will protect the insulation layer from moisture vapor condensation. Condensation always forms on the underside of metal tiles, water droplets can get on the mineral wool, which significantly reduces its heat-shielding performance. In addition, prolonged contact of wet cotton wool with wooden structures can cause them to deteriorate prematurely. The insulation itself will be laid on the roof from the attic side and additionally protected with a vapor barrier layer.

Waterproofing is sold in rolls, during installation you need to follow the markings, on front surface lines are drawn. Simple bath roofs do not have valleys, but they may have a chimney outlet. Begin waterproofing just near the chimneys, stretch the material around the entire perimeter and fix it with a stapler. Make sure that all overlaps are directed in the direction of the condensate drainage, it is advisable to glue the membrane joints with special tape or ordinary tape.

The chimney is processed - proceed with the waterproofing of the slopes. Lay the rolls from the bottom up, fix them to the rafters with a stapler. Do not allow significant sagging of the material; in no case should it touch mineral wool... The membrane can be additionally fixed to the rafters with 50 × 50 mm counter battens.

Such a device increases the efficiency natural ventilation between the roofing and the battens. Some builders skip this operation, they believe that there are enough gaps between the crate and the covering sheets for ventilation. Both methods have the right to life, but we would not recommend saving too much when arranging roofing.

Step 4.

Nail wind boards along the eaves, wrap the waterproofing over the boards.

For the lathing, you can use boards with a thickness of 30 mm and a width of 100 mm or strips of 30 × 50 mm. The first board or rail from the eaves should be one centimeter thicker than the others to increase the strength of fixing the sheets and prevent them from being blown up by strong gusts of wind. The step of the lathing should be equal to the step of the wave of the metal tile.

Lathing for metal tiles - photo

Nail the first strip at the eaves, check its position. It must be strictly parallel to the ridge, otherwise the waves of the tiles on the roof will not be perpendicular to it, and this is considered a marriage. In order to speed up the process of nailing the lathing, you need to cut off several strips along the length of the wave step, they will be used as a template. There is a second method of speeding up work - beat off parallel lines along the counter-lattice with a rope with blue at the required distance. Follow these lines when nailing the battens. The ridge must have slats, the distance of the slats from the ridge cannot exceed ten centimeters. The slats are needed to fix the ridge metal element of the roof covering.

The wavelength of metal tiles depends on the brand and thickness of the sheet, select the tiles taking into account individual characteristics roofs. Each manufacturer supplies its products with instructions describing the optimal roof performance and climatic zone... Around the perimeter of the chimney, you need to make a continuous crate with a width of about 20-25 centimeters.

Step 5. Chimney apron installation.

All manufacturers produce additional elements for roofing; their list also includes metal abutment strips for the chimney. They look like flat plates; you need to cut out the technological folds yourself, taking into account the dimensions of the chimney.

Measure the width of the lower part of the chimney, beat off this value on the plank symmetrically to the edges. Draw a line ≈10 centimeters wide with a marker, cut off the vertical edges with scissors, bend them perpendicular to the drawn line. The whole part of the apron along the line must be bent at an angle equal to the angle of the exit of the chimney wall on the roof slope. Do not be afraid to make a mistake, while fixing the element, the corner will align to the existing dimensions.

Installation diagram of additional elements around the chimney

Start installing the apron from the bottom wall brick pipe... Under the lower element of the apron, insert flat sheet metal (tie) with flanges on the sides, through which water will go into the collectors. The side walls of the pipe are finished in the same way, the upper part is sealed last.

In order to exclude the ingress of water through the stacks of the chimney under the roofing, it is recommended to drown the side strips in the brickwork. To do this, you need to attach it to the wall and draw a line of contact of the upper edge of the strip on the chimney. Grinder with diamond disc a line (strobe) is cut along the marked place. The saw cut must be cleaned of dust and rinsed. The folded edge of the strip is inserted into the strobe and sealed with silicone along its entire length. This should be done around the entire perimeter. brick chimney... The planks are screwed to the roof lathing with self-tapping screws with countersunk heads. The junctions are the most dangerous from the point of view of leaks, very carefully perform all operations to seal them.

The external apron for sealing the chimney is installed after laying the metal tile. Some craftsmen do not want to install an internal apron, we do not recommend simplifying the process of installing the coating by increasing the risk of leaks. In terms of time, the complete installation of one apron will not take more than two or three hours, this is not the time, due to the savings of which, the entire roof of the bath can be put at additional risk.

Step 5. Installation of hooks for the drainage system.

The hooks should be secured even before the installation of the metal shingle drip, this is very important. Eaves strips can be installed immediately after the hooks.

Important. The bottom of the eaves should drop slightly into the groove. Otherwise, with strong gusts of wind, rainwater will fall on the wooden elements of the cornice. The gutter of the drainage system itself can be delivered after the installation of the metal tile.

The distance between the holders is approximately 50 centimeters. The total slope of the gutter must be at least three millimeters per meter of length, mark on each holder for bending lines in the desired place.

Let's look at an example how to do this. Let's say the length of the roof slope of the bath is 6 meters, the slope between the extreme holders should be approximately 6 × 3 = 18 millimeters. Place all hooks in a row and line up the ends. On the first mark the bend point, and on the last mark a point ≈18 millimeters below the first. Connect the points with a line, each hook will have a bend mark on it. Of course, the holders need to be numbered so that later during attachment they do not change places. Do not be upset if during the bends it is not possible to maintain accuracy up to a millimeter, the gutter itself will eventually fall into place.

Step 6. An opening for the outlet funnel is marked on the gutter, the width of the opening depends on the diameter of the drainage system. The hole is cut with a metal hacksaw. Insert the gutter into the holders with an overlap of several centimeters, the edges of the individual pieces of the gutter should fit into the special seats. Fasten the groove with the metal tabs on the holders. To increase the sealing of the joints of individual pieces of the gutter, seals can be installed. Plugs are installed at the ends of the gutter. The funnel is placed under the hole and secured by bending the metal tab.

Step 7. On top of the installed cornice strip, you need to remove the edges of the waterproofing sheet and glue it with double-sided tape. In this position, condensate will fall from the canvas into the gutter, and not under the cornice.

Step 8. Sheets of metal tiles are raised to the roof one at a time; wooden logs installed from the ground with an emphasis on the beginning of the slope can be used.

If the bath is two-story, then tarpaulin belts should be used for lifting.

The first sheet must be laid exactly along the line of the cornice and the end of the roof.

If the rafter system was made according to all the rules, then no problems should arise. If there are errors, put the first sheet with an offset of no more than 1 ÷ 2 cm, the last sheet will also have such an offset. The end finishing element will close the unevenness of the sheets.

Fastening is done with special roofing screws with rubber washers.

Self-tapping screws for metal tiles, as needed per 1 sq. m.

Important. The self-tapping screw must be screwed into the crate at least two centimeters.

In the lower part of the fastening sheet is made in each deflection of the wave, then the sheets are fastened through the deflection in a checkerboard pattern. If the sheets are stacked from left to right, then the second sheet overlaps the first, if in the opposite order, then it goes under the first. This should be borne in mind and do not screw the screws on the extreme waves of metal tiles before laying two sheets.

You need to move on the roof very carefully, only in soft shoes, feet should be placed only in places where the wave bends.

Self-tapping screws must be tightened without undershooting or pinching. The rubber washer should press firmly against the surface of the sheet, but not deform it.

Step 9. Installation of skate strips.

They can be flat and semicircular and are equipped with end caps of the corresponding profile. Lay the planks with an overlap of up to 10 centimeters, fix to the metal tile with ridge screws.

Step 10. Installation of end strips.

Align the ends, all battens should be in one line. The planks are fixed to the windshield on one side and to the roofing on the other.

If a metal sandwich pipe is used for the chimney in the bath, then for its exit to the roof, you need to install a special additional device for engineering equipment - a rubber outlet. Its outlet diameter changes by cutting off the upper part of the corrugated seal.

How the outlet of a metal pipe is sealed

Step, no.	Description	Illustration
Step 1	Mark the chimney outlet on the roof, cut a hole with metal scissors
Step 2	Make the same hole in the waterproofing, apply silicone sealant to the waterproofing seal, glue it and fix it to the battens or battens with metal strips
Step 3	Attach the outlet base to the metal tile profile and fold it to fit
Step 4	On the underside of the outlet, apply a layer of sealant, install the outlet in place and fix it around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. The diameter of the rubber insert of the fixture should be approximately 20% smaller than the diameter of the flue pipe

If you wish, you can install ventilation holes on the roof. The technology is no different from the above, only the appearance and engineering of the ventilation cap are different.

The final "touch" is the snow holders. It is recommended to place them in areas with a large snow cover, they protect the weir systems from mechanical damage. The brackets are placed at the bottom of the metal tile wave only above the crate. Mark the locations and use a thin drill to drill holes in the tiles and battens. They are needed for high strength screw bolts, snow guards must withstand heavy loads. It is recommended to mount the brackets on rubber pads, the snow retainer tubes are inserted into the holes in the brackets.

Snow guard prices

snow holders

Video - Installation of metal tiles

Rules and step-by-step instructions for installing shingles

Among modern roofing materials, flexible tiles take a worthy place, this is a universal-use coating, it can be used to cover the most complex conical, domed or sloped roofs.

In terms of price, the material belongs to the middle category. Of course, the range of prices among various brands and manufacturers of shingles can be significant, but according to the average cost, this is a roofing material that is quite affordable for most users. You can see her very often at the baths. All advertising brochures of manufacturers attract the attention of buyers with excellent photographs of various objects, where the roof has not only various color solutions but also the shape of the "petals" of the tiles.

But none of the manufacturers gives photographs of roofs with soft tiles after 5 ÷ 6 years of operation. Do you know why? And because during this time enough dust accumulates between the particles of the crumb for the growth of mosses and lichens.

We will not discuss the appearance of such a coating, some people may like it - a real "retro-blood". Let it be pleasant, but mosses and lichens “do not like” the roof itself, root system plants at an accelerated rate destroys the base of the soft tiles. No "modified" bitumen and nonwovens can withstand the effects of wildlife. This means that it is time to save money for a complete replacement of the roofing material. Moreover, do not put off the work on the back burner, after a few years the plywood will start to deteriorate, the top veneer will peel off. Expensive plywood will also have to be replaced. You can, of course, use laminated plywood for the crate, but look at its price and soberly assess your financial capabilities. There are options for cleaning moss, but they simultaneously "clean" the surface from chips and part of bitumen.

The base for the tiles is solid, most often sheets of plywood or OSB are used, sometimes there is also a more expensive version of thin edged boards. Depending on the pitch of the rafters, materials with different thicknesses are used.

	Material thickness, mm
The distance between the rafters of the lathing, mm	OSB	Sheet plywood	Natural edged board
300	9	9	-
600	12	12	20
900	18	18	23
1200	21	21	30
1500	27	27	37

The table shows the approximate parameters of the lathing materials, depending on the distance between the rafter legs. The most advantageous is the use of thinner slabs laid on a step crate of unedged boards. So the strength can be adjusted independently, and the price of the lathing is minimal. At the same time, the amount of unproductive waste is significantly reduced - space can be found for almost all slab scraps. We will stop at this option.

Step 1. Check the geometry of the rafter system and the reliability of fixation of all its nodes. Flexible roof structures are much heavier than metal, the rafter system must be as stable as possible. In addition, the surface of soft tiles is rough, which contributes to the accumulation of increased snow cover, and this is an additional load. The angles are checked by measuring the diagonals, the linearity of the rafters with a tensioned rope. Deflections were found - make marks in these places and eliminate them while laying the stepped lathing. The distance between the lathing boards is 20-30 centimeters.

Step 2. Start nailing down the OSB boards.

The base for shingles - solid lathing

Baths, as a rule, are small in size and simple roofs, such features make it possible to draw up a preliminary plan for cutting slabs. Having a plan reduces the number of material cuts, which means time and quality. Plates can be fastened with ordinary nails 40 ÷ 50 mm long, there is a desire to suffer and pay extra money for these torments - fix the plates with self-tapping screws. There is a lot of controversy around the need to leave a gap between the plates, they say, it will compensate for thermal expansion.

Don't believe it. How can the gap compensate for the expansion of the board if it is nailed to the boards in many places? This is the first thing. Secondly, those few tenths of a millimeter, by which the plate can really expand, are crumpled at the edges without any problems. Try to keep the plates as flat as possible in one plane. But a run of a few millimeters should not upset you, flexible shingles will easily hide them without deteriorating their properties.

Step 3. Fasten the gutter hooks.

How this is done is described in detail above in paragraph 5 of the section "Rules and step-by-step instruction installation of metal tiles ". And the general algorithm for installing the spillway system, including snow retainers, is no different.

Step 4. Install metal droppers on the eaves overhang, fix them with a pitch of approximately 15 centimeters with roofing nails. It is much easier to hammer nails into the metal with a special hammer, it has a sharp tooth, with which holes are first punched in the sheet and only after that the nail is hammered. The overlap of the droppers is at least three centimeters.

Step 5. Installation of shingles must be started from the chimney, lay a waterproof barrier around its perimeter, it is implemented as a kit. We strongly advise you to put the same barrier around the entire perimeter of the eaves. It is inexpensive, but it will bring a lot of benefits. Width is approximately 50 centimeters. The barrier is self-adhesive, remove the protective film and stick it carefully, do not bend, the surface should be flat. Overlaps of at least 20 cm, if the barrier does not adhere well - use a special liquid bituminous mastic.

Excess pieces of material are cut off with a construction knife. Place a flat board under the cutting line, cut it off, remove the board and glue the piece prepared to the size. You can additionally fix the lining carpet with studs with wide heads, the length of the nails is within 20 mm, the pitch is 25 ÷ 30 cm.

Important. If the slope of the roof slopes is less than 15 °, then it is better to lay the underlay on all slopes. The material is laid from the bottom up, the overlaps are sealed with bitumen mastic. On the skate, the barrier must be laid in all cases.

One more point. If the shingle profile has deep cutouts such as jazz, tail, trio, then the underlay should be applied to the entire roof.

Step 6. To protect the ends from wind loads, pediment strips are nailed to the gable board.

Use nails and a special hammer. The distance between the studs is about twenty centimeters, do not forget to overlap the slats. The edge of the plank should be placed on the edge of the wind board, and the nails should be staggered.

Step 7. Roof slope markings. On the lining carpet, parallel horizontal lines should be beaten off with a rope with blue, the distance between them is approximately five times the width of the tiles, the distance between the vertical lines should be the size of one shingle. Such a mesh will greatly simplify and speed up the process of installing shingles. In addition, it completely eliminates the risk of skewing the rows of tiles. These lines make it possible not only to keep the shingle vertically and horizontally, but also to observe it on difficult sections of the roof, to correct the incorrect dimensions of the slope.

Step 8. Put a valley carpet around the perimeter of the brick chimney, be sure to coat the joints with bitumen mastic.

Step 9. Setting up the starting strip.

This is a very crucial stage, treat its implementation with maximum attention. Perform work from the center of the cornice; the excess will be cut off at the edges. This method will allow the entire roof to be made symmetrical, and this is very important for appearance baths. The starter strip has its own profile and an increased thickness of the adhesive layer. WITH back side remove the protective film, carefully lay the material and fix it in a checkerboard pattern with studs with wide heads. 1.5 cm should be retreated from the edge of the dropper.

Step 10... Before starting the installation, the shingles need to be mixed in random order, do not take them in a row from one stack.

The fact is that the color may change slightly and large stripes with different shades form on your roof. When mixing the shingles, this problem disappears. Each shingle is removed from the back protective film, the tiles are glued evenly and additionally fixed with nails.

Important. When driving nails into the lower part of the shingles, you should pay attention to the fact that their heads are necessarily covered by subsequent rows. The first row of nails should be one centimeter away from the starting strip.

There are types of tiles that do not have the protection of the adhesive layer, and it is a little easier to work with them. Drive in nails only at right angles, the caps should not cut into the roof. For one shingle one meter long, four nails are enough; from the visible part of the shingle, the cap should be located at a distance of at least two centimeters. Each nail should hold two shingles at once.

Step 11. Along the entire perimeter of the brick chimney, tiles must be laid on mastic, all upper joints are additionally sealed. To increase the tightness, it is recommended to saw through the groove, insert metal decorative strips into it and bend them down. The joints are carefully coated with mastic.

Passage element - fixation

Step 12. Gables decoration. The edges of the shingles are additionally coated with mastic. The excess parts are cut off according to straight line with a sharp carpenter's knife.

Step 13. The ridge is first glued with flexible tiles, and then closed with a special metal ridge element. Do not forget to overlap and coat all joints with bituminous mastic. It is advisable to leave a gap of several centimeters in the ridge for natural ventilation of the rafter system. The metal ridge covering is pasted over with soft tiles. It can be cut out of an ordinary or broken along the lines of the cornice perforation. Secure the shingles with four studs, two on each side. Place the ridge against the prevailing wind direction.

If the ridge has an acute angle or the tiles are laid during the cold season, then before bending the ridge tiles, the line should be warmed up with a construction hairdryer, otherwise it will crack. Some manufacturers promise that their tiles can be installed at -5 ° C. Do not believe or experiment, work should only be done in warm and dry weather. To prevent the edges of the ridge tiles from being visible, cut them slightly at an angle. There will be a narrow part at the top, a little wider at the bottom. The wide, flat part of the factory cut will hide all the hand-crafted irregularities.

This completes the work on the roof, you can begin to insulate the roof.

Prices for shingles

flexible shingles

Video - Installation of flexible shingles

It is far from a secret that ceramic roofing tiles have earned their wide popularity among many developers due to their technical and aesthetic qualities. Confirmation of this can be considered already at least its service life, which can reach a hundred years. So, the manufacture of ceramic tiles is carried out using the sintering of natural materials, so the coating is able to withstand absolutely any impact from the outside natural factors... Of course, like any material, ceramic tiles also have some of their disadvantages, the main of which are the rather laborious installation of a ceramic tile roof, or rather, its individual elements, as well as the need to clearly and strictly follow the requirements of the installation instructions.

Starting work on the installation of ceramic tiles

Starting work with such a material as ceramic tiles, its installation can be conditionally divided into two main stages. During the first, all calculations are performed, and the bulk of the required materials is prepared, and in the second stage, the laying is carried out directly.

The required amount of ceramic tiles for the roof

When for a room such as a bath, the roof may include one, two or more slopes located at different angles. The construction of the tiles is carried out on the principle of overlap, the size of which is influenced, first of all, by the angle of the roof slope. If you subtract from the entire length of the ceramic part the segment that is necessary in order to form the overlap, you get a value that is called the useful length of the material. The useful width is usually indicated by the manufacturer in the instructions attached to the material.

Having received all the necessary data to calculate the area, you should calculate how much material is required for 1 m² of the roof. The data obtained should be rounded up, which is justified by the need to cut off part of the material.

After that, to the ready-made data, you need to add one more tiled row, which is required for the "fight" and trimming. It is also important not to forget to calculate the number that is necessary for the device of the skate and.

Calculation of the amount of waterproofing material

In the event that a ceramic tile is being mounted with your own hands, it is worth remembering that if the roof slope is 22 degrees, then it is imperative to lay a layer of waterproofing. It is best to use roll material for this, which is laid according to the principle of overlapping the canvases at a distance of 10 centimeters, letting in the pediment and sloping lines of overhangs of 15 centimeters, observing the overlaps through the corners protruding over the corners of 15 - 20 centimeters. To calculate the required amount of material, you need to multiply the total pitched area by 1.4.

Laying a waterproofing membrane with an indentation of 30 centimeters from the ridge can guarantee the structure normal ventilation. The ridge itself must be equipped with a special insulation tape.

In the area of ​​the chimney passage and the junction of the walls, it will be necessary to leave an overflow in the event that the bathhouse on which the roof is mounted is attached directly to the room.

Calculation of the parameters of the lathing and rafter legs

So, the equipment for the production of ceramic tiles works in such a way that the normal weight of natural tiles, which falls on 1 m² of the roof, is 40 kilograms. We also need to add to this the potential snow load, especially this applies to specific regions with snowy winter... That is why, when equipping a rafter system, it is important to approach the process very carefully and execute it so that it is powerful. But there is no special need to use an exceptionally thick beam, it will only be possible to reduce the step of installing the rafters. The best solution for the rafter leg there will be a bar that has rectangular section about 75x150 millimeters. It will be more correct to install installation trusses every 60 - 90 centimeters.

For the device of the crate system, a beam with parameters of 50x50 millimeters is suitable, but you can also use a rectangular analogue (40x60 millimeters).

The rows of battens should be the same number as the horizontal rows of shingles. This also adds another row that will run along the eaves overhang.

Fastening ceramic tiles

The main elements of fastening the coating are zinc-treated screws and special clamps. Ceramic tile sheets must be carefully fixed in places where the wind load is high. It is imperative to fix the lower row, which runs along the cornice line, as well as the row located along the ridge and pediment. In the event that work on laying the material is carried out on a roof with a slope of more than 50 degrees, then ordinary elements should be additionally fixed according to the principle of a checkerboard pattern. With such a device, one tile element will be able to support adjacent ones located above and below.

Verification as part of the preparation phase

In order to avoid any errors during the construction of the sheathing system, associated, for example, with the skewing of the material, the parameters of the mounted rafter system must be measured even before the start of direct laying.

1. First, the direction along which the horizontal laths are located is corrected, placing them according to the principle of a fan. In this case, the space left between the laths should increase towards the larger pediment.
2. Any deviations in the vertical direction should be removed according to the same fan principle, forming a slight backlash of parts in the desired direction.

It is worth starting checking work with pitched diagonals. Provided that their parameters differ from each other, each side of the slope should be measured separately.

Installation of ceramic tiles, details on the video:

The process of laying ceramic tiles

When arranging natural tiles on a base of waterproofing and insulation, it is important to equip the roof with two gaps for ventilation. The first of them should be located between the membrane of thermal and waterproofing, and the second between them and the coating. With this method of installation, all elements of insulation, wood, as well as the tiles themselves will be able to freely get rid of excess moisture, as a result of which the operational period will be significantly extended.

1. The first of the ventilation gaps can be installed both with the help of the lathing device and thanks to the laying edged boards 5 cm thick along the ridge.
2. The counter-lattice device is designed to provide the second gap.

Laying procedure ceramic elements:

• initially, without any fasteners, rows are laid along the ridge. If it is not possible to complete a row of whole parts, the ceramic elements can be cut using a grinding tool equipped with a stone cutting disc. You only need to prune on the ground;
• through the previously prepared directions, the installation lines of the vertical columns are marked. It is important to outline the line of the pediment and then the lines located through 3 - 5 vertically located rows;
• the shingles must be fixed exclusively in accordance with the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is best to start laying from the lower right roofing corner and move to the left and up;
• it is important not to forget about the device and fixing of additional parts intended for the pediment and ridge. A ridge-mounted edged board must not have points of contact with ridge tiles. Elements are trimmed to each other;

The construction of the rafter structure of the pitched roof is carried out in accordance with the norms and requirements of SNiP in force in Russia.

Particular attention should be paid to the climatic features of the region where the building is located. Both wind and snow loads (in winter time) vary significantly depending on geographic location.

A roofing material such as shingles is only intended for pitched roofs. MetroTile® composite shingles can be used for roofs with a slope of at least 12 degrees.

Modern architectural solutions often provide for a complex roof configuration, where some elements have a smaller slope than the main slopes. In such areas of the roof, composite shingles can only be used for decorative purposes if there is one hundred percent waterproofing.

Figure 5-1.1 shows a general design diagram. Waterproofing is placed on top of the rafters, which are sawn vertically. Canvases waterproofing material they are mounted horizontally, from the eaves from bottom to top, with vertical overlaps of at least 150 mm and horizontal overlaps of about 100 mm. At the same time, as the specialists of the Stroymet company note, the waterproofing should sag between the rafters by 100-200 mm.

Docking of the waterproofing material canvases is carried out on the rafters. The very first canvas should hang from the edge of the rafters by at least 10 centimeters. Near the ridge of the roof, the waterproofing is not brought to the ridge itself by about 10 centimeters. This is necessary for roof ventilation.

The pitched roof has two ventilation ducts - VK-1 and VK-2 (see Fig. 5.1-2). The first is located above the waterproofing, and the second is below.

Rice. 5.1-2 - A

Rice. 5.1-2 - B

VK-1 is formed by a counter-lattice, for which bars with a cross section of 50 by 50 mm are usually used. The lower end of the counter-lattice should protrude beyond the edge of the rafter by a distance of up to 4 centimeters.

If the angle of inclination of the slope is less than 20 degrees, then it is recommended to use a bar of 50 by 75 mm for the counter-lattice. In this case, the section ventilation duct VK-1 increases as shown in Fig. 5.1-2-B.

Elements such as valleys can be provided in the roof structure. Taking their name from the old Russian narrow and long vessels, roof valleys help to quickly remove excess moisture from the roof - including in the case of prolonged slanting rains.

If there are valleys in the roof project, then it is necessary to start the installation of waterproofing and counter-laths from them.

When installing heat and waterproofing, it should be borne in mind that between them there must be a ventilation duct, which is designated in the diagrams as VK-2. It is necessary so that condensation does not form on the roof, which, when sub-zero temperature turns to ice.

Only if the newest Tyvek superdiffusion material is used in the waterproofing of the roof, the arrangement of the VK-2 ventilation duct is optional.

Installation of the lathing

The roof lathing with a distance between the rafters up to 1 meter (in Fig. 5.2-1 it is indicated by the letter "W", that is, the step of the rafters) is made of bars with a cross section of 50x50 millimeters. In the event that the step of the rafters is larger, the cross-section of the sheathing bars should also be increased. At the same time, the moisture content of the wood from which the crate is constructed cannot be higher than 20% of the dry weight.

The purlins are mounted from the bottom up. In fig. 5.2-1 the lower bar is designated with the number 1, and the upper one - 4. The lowest bar is attached 2 cm from the end of the grid (see callout I in the same figure), and the first row of tiles from the bottom is fixed on it.

The bars used in the lathing must cover at least 2 spans between the rafters in length, and the lower edges of the adjacent rows of the lathing must be strictly 370 mm apart from each other. This is exactly the length of the standard composite shingle sheet in all five MetroTile® collections. Therefore, only such a step between the battens makes it possible to create a lock at the joints of the tile sheets, which plays a key role both in functional terms (waterproofing the roof and its protection from wind loads) and in aesthetic (attractive appearance).

Figure 5.2-1 shows the templates with which you can accurately adjust the distance between the battens. They are quite simple to manufacture and greatly simplify the work.

The distance from the top row of the roof sheathing to the ridge of the roof is a special parameter that is determined separately in each project. In fig. 5.2-1 (callouts II and III) it is designated with the letter "A". The ideal can be called such a rafter length at which this parameter will also be 370 mm, but other options are possible, which are described in more detail below.

Let's dwell especially on the ridge bars of the sheathing:

• Callout II of Figure 5.2-1 shows the fastening of the semicircular ridge elements. In this case, the lathing bars are placed at a distance of 13 cm on either side of the roof ridge.
• If ribbed elements of the ridge are used, then the sheathing bars should be trimmed and placed 120 mm from the ridge, as shown in callout III.
• In the presence of valleys, the purlins should be located at a distance of 18 centimeters from the center line of the valley.

Work on the eaves of the roof begins with the installation of a eaves board 40 millimeters thick. The cornice board is firmly nailed to the rafters.

If the project provides for the installation of gutters, then brackets for gutters are fixed on the eaves board (Fig. 5.3-1, callout II). If the creation of gutters is not planned, then a condensate drip must be installed on the eaves board, which can be made from the eaves strip, as shown in Figure 5.3-2. When calculating the need for materials, the specialists of the Stroymet company note that the consumption of the cornice bar at the same time increases by about two times.

At the next stage, the first cornice element from the edge is fastened with 4 nails. Then, in the same way, the following cornice elements are installed with an overlap of at least 10 centimeters.

Important!

Since the reliability of the waterproofing of the roof and the functionality of the under-roof ventilation directly depend on the correct installation of the cornice elements, during the work you must make sure of the following:

1. The cornice board is covered from above with a waterproofing film, and at the same time, a free drain of condensate into the gutter or drip is ensured.
2. The dropper of the cornice plank is brought out into the drainage system.
3. There is sufficient space between the waterproofing layer and the cornice element for air flow into the under-roof ventilation duct, indicated by a dotted line in Fig. 5.3-1 (callouts I and II), like VK-1.
4. The cornice lining has channels that provide air flow into the under-roof ventilation channel, indicated by a dotted line in the same figure as VK-2.

Installation of tiles on the roof slope

Laying of sheets of composite tiles is carried out with an overlap in such a way that the lower row goes under the upper one. After one row of sheets is fixed on the upper side, these sheets should be lifted in order to bring the sheets of the next (lower) row under them. After that, the top of the new sheets is nailed to the sheathing bars along with the bottom of the sheets of the higher row.

Tiled sheets are staggered with lateral overlap and offset. In fig. 5.4-1 lateral overlap is indicated by B and offset by S.

Different collections of MetroTile® composite tiles have their own recommendations for calculating offset and overlap parameters. In some cases, the basis for the calculation is an integer number of shingle waves, in others - the exact size in millimeters.

Rice. 5.4-1 - A

Rice. 5.4-1 - B

In overlapping areas, a maximum of three sheets of composite tiles are allowed to converge.

The following diagrams (Fig. 5.4-1, A and B) show the order of laying the sheets, depending on the prevailing wind direction in a given area. Since the entire roof structure is subject to constant wind loads, it is extremely important to take into account the direction of the wind when installing the tiles!

The fastening of shingles to the lathing also depends on the selected collection. The sequence of nailing and specific points into which they should be driven are shown in Figure 5.4-2 - it should be noted that nails 1-4 are used if a new sheet of tiles on the left side is superimposed on the previous one. If the sheet takes the last place in the row, then its free edge is attached with a nail 4a.

The nails are driven in at an angle of 45 ° to the surface of the sheet (Fig. 5.4-2, callout I). This should be done manually, and you need to stand on the surface of the already mounted tile and move along it as shown in Fig. 5.4-3.

To ensure that the nails do not stand out from the background decorative coating shingles, they can be painted over acrylic paint and covered with basalt dressing. Both are included in the repair kit.

Rice. 5.4-4 - A

Rice. 5.4-4 - B

As mentioned above, the top row of ridge tiles, unlike the rest of the rows, does not have a fixed size. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation of this row of sheets, it is necessary to accurately measure the distance between the upper bar of the sheathing on the slope and the ridge bar.

If the distance (in Fig. 5.4-4 - A it is indicated by the letter "A") is 370 mm, then the top sheets of the tiles can be fixed in the same way as all the previous ones.

The distance A from 250 to 370 mm also allows the use of whole tile sheets in the top row. However, at the same time, one row is shifted to another, and Stroymet specialists advise taking care of maintaining the required values ​​of the maximum snow and wind load. For this purpose, not four, but eight nails should be hammered into the sheet, both from the top and from the bottom (see Fig. 5.4-4 - B).

Otherwise, from the top side, the sheet is attached in the usual way, while from below, nails must be driven into the top of the sheet profile. In this case, a sealant is placed between the sheets.

Rice. 5.4-4 - C

The most difficult situation is when the distance A is less than 250 mm. This eliminates the possibility of using whole shingles in the top row. Therefore, the sheets need to be shortened. How to do this is shown in Fig. 5.4-4 - C.

In order to prevent deformation of the sheets or to reduce it, you should first make a fold at a distance A from the edge of the sheet. The fold and cut lines are marked on the sheet (the second is 50 mm further than the first) and then, using a hand or special tool, the sheet is folded up.

Both manual and special tools can be used to cut the sheet.

Shortened shingles are nailed to the upper purlins with nails - 8 pieces per sheet.

On the pediment, the roofing sheets must be mounted flush with the ends of the purlins, as shown in fig. 5.5-1. The edges of the sheets should be bent upwards at right angles using a manual bending tool (at a distance of about 30-40 mm from the edge). At this point, a universal self-adhesive seal is glued to the sheets (Fig. 5.5-2 and 5.5-3).

The most important element of the pediment is the wind board, which has a cross section of 25 by 130 millimeters and is attached to the ends of the sheathing bars with nails (Fig. 5.5-3).

Important! The wind board should be installed in such a way that when installing the end strip, its curly teeth only slightly touch the surface of the tile sheets.

Installation of end plates is carried out from the bottom up. At the bottom strip - the first from the cornice - the end should be closed with a special plug (Fig. 5.5-4).

The end plate plug must be inserted inside it itself, sealed with silicone and secured with four self-tapping screws.

Before attaching the end strips, they must be placed on the end board and only after making sure that they are all laid out correctly and evenly can you start fixing.

Each plank is nailed to the wind board with five or six nails.

Rice. 5.5-5 - A

Rice. 5.5-5 - B

For decorative purposes, the end strip on the pediment can be replaced with a semicircular ridge.

In Figure 5.5-5 - A, you can see the cross-section of the end plate attachment unit on the pediment. In fig. 5.5-5 - B shows a special case where the total thickness of the roofing cake is more than 130 mm. It requires the inclusion of an additional element in the design - an apron, which is made from a flat roofing sheet and placed under the end strip, as shown in the diagram.

The ridge roof elements are installed with an overlap of 100 mm. If the ridge is semicircular, then its elements are placed with an overlap of 45 mm and form a kind of lock.

Both rib and semicircular elements are nailed to the ridge bars of the sheathing with 50 mm nails in accordance with the diagram in Fig. 5.6-1 or 5.6-2.

For the ridge of a pitched roof, Stroymet specialists recommend using a bent flat sheet, as shown in Fig. 5.6-3. The bending angle depends on the thickness of the rafters and the slope of the roof slope. If necessary (as a rule, for aesthetic reasons), semicircular ridge elements can be fixed on top of such a ridge.

To prevent the penetration of water and snow into the space between the upper Boer crate and the ridge elements, it is recommended to put a universal seal in this place.

The elements of the semicircular ridge should be positioned as shown in fig. 5.6-4 taking into account the prevailing direction of wind flows.

The ends of the semicircular and ribbed skates can be closed with special covers (Fig. 5.6-5).

Hip roofs have triangular slopes, which creates some specific difficulties when installing composite shingles on such a roof.

Figure 5.7-1 shows a diagram of the installation of beams with a section of 50 by 50 mm on top of the roof lathing along the hip ridge. If the ridge is semicircular, then the distance between the outer edges of these bars should be 150-160 mm, if the ridge is ribbed, then 120-130 mm is enough.

The sheets of MetroTile® composite shingles that will be adjacent to the hip must be trimmed as shown in fig. 5.7-2. Before cutting, to reduce deformations, the sheet should be folded (Fig. 5.7-3). The fold line should correspond to the required sheet size, and the cut line should be marked with a 50 mm allowance. You need to bend the sheet vertically up, at an angle of 90 degrees. It is recommended to measure and mark the fold and cut lines directly on the roof, while preparation is best done on the ground.

Before installing the ridge elements, additional seals must be laid along the hip ridge bar. Otherwise, the installation of hip ridge skates does not differ from the installation of ridge elements on a conventional roof (in accordance with the recommendations outlined in the previous section).

The features of installing semicircular ridge elements on a hip roof are shown in Fig. 5.7-4.

On both sides of the longitudinal axis of the valley, it is necessary to install wooden blocks with a section of 50 by 50 millimeters. On top of these bars, waterproofing is placed, which in no case should be pulled and secured with nails.

At 5 centimeters from the bars under the valley, counter-lattice bars are installed with a sawn-out part with a section of 25 by 150 mm, which is a quarter of a bar. A support board under the valley should be laid here, the section of which is exactly the same - 25x150 mm.

The ends of the purlins coming into the valley are attached to the support board and cut at a distance of 200 mm from the axis of the valley. At the same time, cavities are formed under them, which are necessary for removing condensate from the under-roof space and ensuring air circulation in it.

The valley elements are attached to the support board with 40mm self-tapping screws. The installation of the elements starts from the bottom of the roof. In this case, the upper self-tapping screws are located 30 mm from the edge of the element and at the maximum distance from the axis of the valley.

The following elements are pushed into the previous ones, and the overlap must be at least 150 mm. They are also screwed onto the support board with self-tapping screws.

Stroymet specialists recommend installing a universal seal along the side of the valley.

Before starting installation, you can bend the side edge of the roof sheet adjacent to the valley downward, as shown in Fig. 5.8-2. In this case, the distance from the valley to the fold of the sheet should be about 10-15 mm.

Attention! When working on the design of a tiled roof, it should be borne in mind that valley elements are supplied without basalt dressing.

All ventilation and heating pipes overlooking the roof must be plastered prior to the installation of the shingles. No ledges or overlaps are allowed on pipes.

The installation diagram of roofing elements on the roof sections adjacent to the pipes is shown in Fig. 5.9-1 and 5.9-2. On the first of them, you see section A - in a plane that is parallel to the rafters (on the leader on the left you can see how it looks on the scale of the entire building).

The apron shown in the diagram is attached to a pipe or to a wall using self-tapping screws with dowels.

Figure 5.9-2 shows section B. Here the section plane is perpendicular to the roof rafters:

Installation of tiles on the external and internal fracture of the slope

If the roof slope has an external fracture, then in this place the roofing sheets are mounted in accordance with the diagram in Fig. 5.10-1.

In fig. 5.10-2 shows how to mount composite shingles on an internal slope fracture. At the same time, the step between the lathing bars at the fracture is, as a rule, more than the usual 370 mm. The figure in the diagram is indicated conditionally - the actual distance depends on the angle of inclination of both slopes and is specified when installing the battens.

Installation of end and side abutment to the wall

The junction to the wall is made in the same way as the junction to the pipe - that is, in accordance with the diagrams in fig. 5.9-1 and fig. 5.9-2 and the materials of the corresponding chapter.

Installation of complex roof fragments

The MetroTile® flat roof sheet is suitable for covering difficult roof areas such as tapered or semicircular roofs. This sheet must be cut into pieces of the desired shape, which are then fixed on a solid sheathing of edged boards, moisture-resistant plywood, oriented strand board (OSB) or other materials.

Installation of a roof window

Skylights that are installed in roof openings with MetroTile® tiles must have a flashing specially designed for high profile roofing materials. At Stroymet you can buy full set roof window - with flashing and elements for sealing. We offer windows for attic and. Also, when preparing the base for the installation of the MetroTile® roof, it is necessary to take into account in advance the correspondence of the dimensions of the roof window, the distance between the rafters and the battens.

The dimensions of the opening for the attic window are calculated so that it is 40-60 millimeters wider and 45 millimeters higher than the window itself (Figure 5.13).

In addition, you should prepare the battens directly adjacent to the window frame so that the level of the flashing is 25 millimeters below the battens. For this, a quarter is selected in the corresponding bars to a depth of 25 mm and to the width of the window flashing.

At the bottom of the window, the roof sheathing must be reinforced. Specific gain parameters are usually specified in the supplier's instructions. roof windows.

Applying MetroTile® Transparent Sheets

The device of roof windows is the only acceptable way to ensure the penetration of light rays through the insulated roof.

However, when it comes to the construction of sheds and open terraces, as well as the lighting of cold attics, you can use another method of lighting - using transparent MetroTile® sheets.

In their shape and size, they do not differ from ordinary ones. roofing sheets, therefore, their installation is not fraught with any difficulties and does not require the use of additional accessories. The peculiarity of transparent sheets is that they are made of polymeric material - polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Thanks to this, they let light through.

If the slope of the roof slope does not reach extreme values ​​of more than 40 degrees, the very structure of the MetroTile® composite tile prevents an avalanche of snow masses.

However, in some cases, the installation of snow guards is required in accordance with SNiPs. They are also needed at too large slope angles.

Snow guards can be mounted in accordance with the diagrams in Figures 5.14-1 and 5.14-2.

MetroTile ® roofing materials can be successfully used not only in the construction of new buildings, but also during the renovation of existing ones, including the installation of tiles over the existing roof. If the existing roof is dilapidated, leaking or morally obsolete, then it is not necessary to remove it.

Composite shingles can be installed as on an old roof from corrugated sheet, and on a seam roof or shingles.

A counter-lattice on a corrugated sheet is made of bars of such a section that their upper edge is higher than the crests of the corrugated sheet. The step between the bars of the counter-lattice should not exceed 500 mm (Fig. 5.15-1).

It is even easier to mount the counter grill on flexible or folded tiles. Here, standard bars with a cross section of 50 by 50 millimeters are used with a step of exactly 500 mm (Fig. 5.15-2).

If the dilapidated roof is leaking, Stroymet specialists recommend laying an additional layer of waterproofing material above it, as shown in Figure 5.15-3.

If the old roof has a bituminous coating, it may be necessary to additional insulation(Figure 5-15-4).

In all cases, a batten is mounted on top of the counter battens, to which the sheets of MetroTile ® composite tiles are attached in accordance with the instructions in this manual.