The choice of roofing for a bath is a question that is both simple and complex. Even a large number of the roofing options offered by manufacturers cannot satisfy everyone, without exception, each bath owner is trying to find his own solution. And we do not have our goal to give advice on choosing a specific type of roofing, everyone should listen to their opinion - there is no perfect roof, just as there is no one, absolutely bad, each has strengths and weaknesses, very large fluctuations in price and in the complexity of installation.

The most prestigious and complex are tile coverings, it can be natural ceramic, concrete, with the addition of polymers, dyes, etc. Metal and flexible tiles are considered a cheaper option, although among these types of coverings the difference in price by brand may differ factor of. It all depends on the material, manufacturing technology and final performance characteristics. Metallic and shingles are found most often in bath coverings, and we will dwell on them for now.

To begin with, it is advisable to familiarize yourself a little with brief characteristics cover.

Prices for metal shingles

metal roof tiles

Dignity

Cheapness, quick installation, a wide range of colors and geometric shapes... You can also mention durability, but this indicator depends not only on the brand, but also on the manufacturer. If the tiles are made with gross deviations from generally accepted standards and with violations of technology, then after 6 ÷ 7 years the coating will have to be repaired or changed. Conscientious licensed manufacturers give a guarantee for elite brands of products for 25 years or more.

disadvantages

Noises during heavy rain or hail. The disadvantage is not critical, in the bath no one is going to sleep in a light sleep. And if an attic is made on the second floor, then the mineral wool used to insulate the roof perfectly dampens sound vibrations. Conclusion - for baths, metal tiles are an excellent roof covering.

It is necessary to transport metal tiles only in a horizontal position, the length of the body should be greater than the length of the material. Carefully unload the roof, transfer sheets only in an upright position, do not allow sharp bends.

We will describe the most difficult method of installing metal tiles - with warm roof... Depending on the specific use attic spaces you can simplify the editing process and skip some operations.

Step-by-step installation instructions

Step 1. Check correct construction and dimensions rafter system... Most of the baths have the simplest gable roof types, it does not take much time to check their dimensions.

How to do it? First, you need to check the diagonals of the rafter system, the difference in values ​​should not exceed two centimeters, such a spread is hidden without problems by additional elements. Next, pull a rope between the extreme rafters, they should all lie in the same plane. Places with deviations should be noted, the deflections are corrected while nailing the battens.

Step 2. If possible, process everything wooden elements rafter system antiseptic agents complex action. They will reliably protect the tree from damage by rot and pests and increase fire safety performance. For a bath, this is an important factor.

Step 3. Laying waterproofing.

It will protect the insulation layer from moisture vapor condensation. Condensation always forms on the underside of metal tiles, water droplets can get on the mineral wool, which significantly reduces its heat-shielding performance. In addition, prolonged contact of wet cotton wool with wooden structures can cause them to deteriorate prematurely. The insulation itself will be laid on the roof from the attic side and additionally protected with a vapor barrier layer.

Waterproofing is sold in rolls, during installation you need to follow the markings, lines are drawn on the front surface. Simple bath roofs do not have valleys, but they may have a chimney outlet. Begin waterproofing just near the chimneys, stretch the material around the entire perimeter and fix it with a stapler. Make sure that all overlaps are directed in the direction of the condensate drainage, it is advisable to glue the membrane joints with special tape or ordinary tape.

The chimney is processed - proceed with the waterproofing of the slopes. Lay the rolls from the bottom up, fix them to the rafters with a stapler. Do not allow significant sagging of the material; in no case should it touch mineral wool... The membrane can be additionally fixed to the rafters with 50 × 50 mm counter battens.

Such a device increases the efficiency natural ventilation between the roofing and the battens. Some builders skip this operation, they believe that there are enough gaps between the crate and the covering sheets for ventilation. Both methods have the right to life, but we would not recommend saving too much when arranging roofing.

Step 4.

Nail wind boards along the eaves, wrap the waterproofing over the boards.

For the lathing, you can use boards with a thickness of 30 mm and a width of 100 mm or strips of 30 × 50 mm. The first board or rail from the eaves should be one centimeter thicker than the others to increase the strength of fixing the sheets and prevent them from being blown up by strong gusts of wind. The step of the lathing should be equal to the step of the wave of the metal tile.

Lathing for metal tiles - photo

Nail the first strip at the eaves, check its position. It should be strictly parallel to the skate, in otherwise the waves of the roof tile will not be perpendicular to it, and this is considered a marriage. In order to speed up the process of nailing the lathing, you need to cut off several strips along the length of the wave step, they will be used as a template. There is a second method of speeding up work - beat off parallel lines along the counter-lattice with a rope with blue at the required distance. Follow these lines when nailing the battens. The ridge must have slats, the distance of the slats from the ridge cannot exceed ten centimeters. The slats are needed to fix the ridge metal element of the roof covering.

The wavelength of metal tiles depends on the brand and thickness of the sheet, select the tiles taking into account individual characteristics roofs. Each manufacturer supplies its products with instructions describing the optimal roof performance and climatic zone... Around the perimeter of the chimney, you need to make a continuous crate with a width of about 20-25 centimeters.

Step 5. Chimney apron installation.

All manufacturers produce additional elements for roofing; their list also includes metal abutment strips for the chimney. They look like flat plates; you need to cut out the technological folds yourself, taking into account the dimensions of the chimney.

Measure the width of the lower part of the chimney, beat off this value on the plank symmetrically to the edges. Draw a line ≈10 centimeters wide with a marker, cut off the vertical edges with scissors, bend them perpendicular to the drawn line. The whole part of the apron along the line must be bent at an angle equal to the angle of the exit of the chimney wall on the roof slope. Do not be afraid to make a mistake, while fixing the element, the corner will align to the existing dimensions.

Installation diagram of additional elements around the chimney

Start installing the apron from the bottom wall brick pipe... A flat sheet of metal (tie) with flanges on the sides should be placed under the lower element of the apron, through which the water will go into the collectors. The side walls of the pipe are finished in the same way, the upper part is sealed last.

In order to exclude the ingress of water through the stacks of the chimney under the roofing, it is recommended to drown the side strips in the brickwork. To do this, you need to attach it to the wall and draw a line of contact of the upper edge of the strip on the chimney. Grinder with diamond disc a line (strobe) is cut along the marked place. The saw cut must be cleaned of dust and rinsed. The folded edge of the strip is inserted into the strobe and sealed with silicone along its entire length. This should be done around the entire perimeter. brick chimney... The planks are screwed to the roof lathing with self-tapping screws with countersunk heads. The junctions are the most dangerous from the point of view of leaks, very carefully perform all operations to seal them.

The external apron for sealing the chimney is installed after laying the metal tile. Some craftsmen do not want to install an internal apron, we do not recommend simplifying the process of installing the coating by increasing the risk of leaks. By time complete installation one apron will not take more than two or three hours, this is not the time, due to the savings of which, the entire roof of the bath can be put at additional risk.

Step 5. Installation of hooks for the drainage system.

The hooks should be secured even before the installation of the metal shingle drip, this is very important. Eaves strips can be installed immediately after the hooks.

Important. The bottom of the eaves should drop slightly into the groove. Otherwise, in case of strong gusts of wind rainwater will fall on the wooden elements of the cornice. The gutter of the drainage system itself can be delivered after the installation of the metal tile.

The distance between the holders is approximately 50 centimeters. The total slope of the gutter must be at least three millimeters per meter of length, mark on each holder for bending lines in the desired place.

Let's look at an example how to do this. Let's say the length of the roof slope of the bath is 6 meters, the slope between the extreme holders should be approximately 6 × 3 = 18 millimeters. Place all hooks in a row and line up the ends. On the first mark the bend point, and on the last mark a point ≈18 millimeters below the first. Connect the points with a line, each hook will have a bend mark on it. Of course, the holders need to be numbered so that later during attachment they do not change places. Do not be upset if during the bends it is not possible to maintain accuracy up to a millimeter, the gutter itself will eventually fall into place.

Step 6. An opening for the outlet funnel is marked on the gutter, the width of the opening depends on the diameter of the drainage system. The hole is cut with a metal hacksaw. Insert the gutter into the holders with an overlap of several centimeters, the edges of the individual pieces of the gutter should fit into the special seats... Fasten the groove with the metal tabs on the holders. To increase the sealing of the joints of individual pieces of the gutter, seals can be installed. Plugs are installed at the ends of the gutter. The funnel is placed under the hole and secured by bending the metal tab.

Step 7. On top of the installed cornice strip, you need to remove the edges of the waterproofing sheet and glue it double-sided tape... In this position, condensate will fall from the canvas into the gutter, and not under the cornice.

Step 8. Sheets of metal tiles are raised to the roof one at a time; wooden logs installed from the ground with an emphasis on the beginning of the slope can be used.

If the bath is two-story, then tarpaulin belts should be used for lifting.

The first sheet must be laid exactly along the line of the cornice and the end of the roof.

If the rafter system was made according to all the rules, then no problems should arise. If there are errors, put the first sheet with an offset of no more than 1 ÷ 2 cm, the last sheet will also have such an offset. The end finishing element will close the unevenness of the sheets.

Fastening is done with special roofing screws with rubber washers.

Self-tapping screws for metal tiles, as needed per 1 sq. m.

Important. The self-tapping screw must be screwed into the crate at least two centimeters.

In the lower part of the fastening sheet is made in each deflection of the wave, then the sheets are fastened through the deflection in a checkerboard pattern. If the sheets are stacked from left to right, then the second sheet overlaps the first, if in the opposite order, then it goes under the first. This should be borne in mind and do not screw the screws on the extreme waves of metal tiles before laying two sheets.

You need to move on the roof very carefully, only in soft shoes, feet should be placed only in places where the wave bends.

Self-tapping screws must be tightened without undershooting or pinching. The rubber washer should press firmly against the surface of the sheet, but not deform it.

Step 9. Installation of skate strips.

They can be flat and semicircular and are equipped with end caps of the corresponding profile. Lay the planks with an overlap of up to 10 centimeters, fix to the metal tile with ridge screws.

Step 10. Installation of end strips.

Align the ends, all battens should be in one line. The planks are fixed to the windshield on one side and to the roofing on the other.

If a metal sandwich pipe is used in the bath for the chimney, then to exit to the roof, you need to install a special additional device for engineering equipment- rubber outlet. Its outlet diameter changes by cutting off the upper part of the corrugated seal.

How the outlet of a metal pipe is sealed

Step, no.	Description	Illustration
Step 1	Mark the chimney outlet on the roof, cut a hole with metal scissors
Step 2	Make the same hole in the waterproofing, apply silicone sealant to the waterproofing seal, glue it and fix it to the battens or battens with metal strips
Step 3	Attach the outlet base to the metal tile profile and fold it to fit
Step 4	On the underside of the outlet, apply a layer of sealant, install the outlet in place and fix it around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. The diameter of the rubber insert of the fixture should be approximately 20% smaller than the diameter of the flue pipe

If you wish, you can install on the roof ventilation holes... The technology is no different from the above, it differs only appearance and the engineering device of the ventilation cap.

The final "touch" is the snow holders. It is recommended to place them in areas with a large snow cover, they protect the weir systems from mechanical damage. The brackets are placed at the bottom of the metal tile wave only above the crate. Mark the locations and use a thin drill to drill holes in the tiles and battens. They are needed for high strength screw bolts, snow guards must withstand heavy loads. It is recommended to mount the brackets on rubber pads, the snow retainer tubes are inserted into the holes in the brackets.

Snow guard prices

snow holders

Video - Installation of metal tiles

Rules and step-by-step instructions for installing shingles

Among modern roofing materials, flexible tiles take a worthy place, this is a universal-use coating, it can be used to cover the most complex conical, domed or sloped roofs.

In terms of price, the material belongs to the middle category. Of course, the range of prices among various brands and manufacturers of shingles can be significant, but according to the average cost, this is a roofing material that is quite affordable for most users. You can see her very often at the baths. All advertising brochures of manufacturers attract the attention of buyers with excellent photographs of various objects, where the roof has not only various color solutions but also the shape of the "petals" of the tiles.

But none of the manufacturers gives photographs of roofs with soft tiles after 5 ÷ 6 years of operation. Do you know why? And because during this time enough dust accumulates between the particles of the crumb for the growth of mosses and lichens.

We will not discuss the appearance of such a coating, some people may like it - a real "retro-blood". Let it be pleasant, but mosses and lichens “do not like” the roof itself, root system plants at an accelerated rate destroys the base of the soft tiles. No "modified" bitumen and nonwovens can withstand the effects of wildlife. This means that it is time to save money for a complete replacement of the roofing material. Moreover, do not put off the work on the back burner, after a few years the plywood will start to deteriorate, the top veneer will peel off. Expensive plywood will also have to be replaced. You can, of course, use laminated plywood for the crate, but look at its price and soberly assess your financial capabilities. There are options for cleaning moss, but they simultaneously "clean" the surface from chips and part of bitumen.

The base for the tiles is solid, most often sheets of plywood or OSB are used, sometimes there is also a more expensive version of thin edged boards. Depending on the pitch of the rafters, materials with different thicknesses are used.

	Material thickness, mm
The distance between the rafters of the lathing, mm	OSB	Sheet plywood	Natural edged board
300	9	9	-
600	12	12	20
900	18	18	23
1200	21	21	30
1500	27	27	37

The table shows the approximate parameters of the lathing materials, depending on the distance between the rafter legs. The most advantageous is the use of thinner slabs laid on a step crate of unedged boards. So the strength can be adjusted independently, and the price of the lathing is minimal. At the same time, the amount of unproductive waste is significantly reduced - space can be found for almost all slab scraps. We will stop at this option.

Step 1. Check the geometry of the rafter system and the reliability of fixation of all its nodes. Flexible roof structures are much heavier than metal, the rafter system must be as stable as possible. In addition, the surface of soft tiles is rough, which contributes to the accumulation of increased snow cover, and this is an additional load. The angles are checked by measuring the diagonals, the linearity of the rafters with a tensioned rope. Deflections were found - make marks in these places and eliminate them while laying the stepped lathing. The distance between the lathing boards is 20-30 centimeters.

Step 2. Start nailing down the OSB boards.

The base for shingles - solid lathing

Baths are usually small and simple roofs, such features make it possible to draw up a preliminary plan for cutting slabs. Having a plan reduces the number of material cuts, which means time and quality. Plates can be fastened with ordinary nails 40 ÷ 50 mm long, there is a desire to suffer and pay extra money for these torments - fix the plates with self-tapping screws. There is a lot of controversy around the need to leave a gap between the plates, they say, it will compensate for thermal expansion.

Don't believe it. How can the gap compensate for the expansion of the board if it is nailed to the boards in many places? This is the first thing. Secondly, those few tenths of a millimeter, by which the plate can really expand, are crumpled at the edges without any problems. Try to keep the plates as flat as possible in one plane. But a run of a few millimeters should not upset you, flexible shingles will easily hide them without deteriorating their properties.

Step 3. Fasten the gutter hooks.

How this is done is described in detail above in paragraph 5 of the section "Rules and step-by-step instruction installation of metal tiles ". And the general algorithm for installing the spillway system, including snow retainers, is no different.

Step 4. Install metal droppers on the eaves overhang, fix them with a pitch of approximately 15 centimeters with roofing nails. It is much easier to hammer nails into the metal with a special hammer, it has a sharp tooth, with which holes are first punched in the sheet and only after that the nail is hammered. The overlap of the droppers is at least three centimeters.

Step 5. Installation of shingles must be started from the chimney, lay a waterproof barrier around its perimeter, it is implemented as a kit. We strongly advise you to put the same barrier around the entire perimeter of the eaves. It is inexpensive, but it will bring a lot of benefits. Width is approximately 50 centimeters. The barrier is self-adhesive, remove the protective film and stick it carefully, do not bend, the surface should be flat. Overlaps of at least 20 cm, if the barrier does not adhere well - use a special liquid bituminous mastic.

Excess pieces of material are cut off with a construction knife. Place a flat board under the cutting line, cut it off, remove the board and glue the piece prepared to the size. You can additionally fix the lining carpet with studs with wide heads, the length of the nails is within 20 mm, the pitch is 25 ÷ 30 cm.

Important. If the slope of the roof slopes is less than 15 °, then it is better to lay the underlay on all slopes. The material is laid from the bottom up, the overlaps are sealed with bitumen mastic. On the skate, the barrier must be laid in all cases.

One more point. If the shingle profile has deep cutouts such as jazz, tail, trio, then the underlay should be applied to the entire roof.

Step 6. To protect the ends from wind loads, pediment strips are nailed to the gable board.

Use nails and a special hammer. The distance between the studs is about twenty centimeters, do not forget to overlap the slats. The edge of the plank should be placed on the edge of the wind board, and the nails should be staggered.

Step 7. Roof slope markings. On the lining carpet, parallel horizontal lines should be beaten off with a rope with blue, the distance between them is approximately five times the width of the tiles, the distance between the vertical lines should be the size of one shingle. Such a mesh will greatly simplify and speed up the process of installing shingles. In addition, it completely eliminates the risk of skewing the rows of tiles. These lines make it possible not only to keep the shingle vertically and horizontally, but also to observe it on difficult sections of the roof, to correct the incorrect dimensions of the slope.

Step 8. Put a valley carpet around the perimeter of the brick chimney, be sure to coat the joints with bitumen mastic.

Step 9. Setting up the starting strip.

This is a very crucial stage, treat its implementation with maximum attention. Perform work from the center of the cornice; the excess will be cut off at the edges. This method will allow the entire roof to be made symmetrical, and this is very important for the appearance of the bath. The starter strip has its own profile and an increased thickness of the adhesive layer. WITH back side remove the protective film, carefully lay the material and fix it in a checkerboard pattern with studs with wide heads. 1.5 cm should be retreated from the edge of the dropper.

Step 10... Before starting the installation, the shingles need to be mixed in random order, do not take them in a row from one stack.

The fact is that the color may change slightly and large stripes with different shades form on your roof. When mixing the shingles, this problem disappears. Each shingle is removed from the back protective film, the tiles are glued evenly and additionally fixed with nails.

Important. When driving nails into the lower part of the shingles, you should pay attention to the fact that their heads are necessarily covered by subsequent rows. The first row of nails should be one centimeter away from the starting strip.

There are types of tiles that do not have the protection of the adhesive layer, and it is a little easier to work with them. Drive in nails only at right angles, the caps should not cut into the roof. For one shingle one meter long, four nails are enough; from the visible part of the shingle, the cap should be located at a distance of at least two centimeters. Each nail should hold two shingles at once.

Step 11. Along the entire perimeter of the brick chimney, tiles must be laid on mastic, all upper joints are additionally sealed. To increase the tightness, it is recommended to saw through the groove, insert metal decorative strips into it and bend them down. The joints are carefully coated with mastic.

Passage element - fixation

Step 12. Gables decoration. The edges of the shingles are additionally coated with mastic. The excess parts are cut off according to straight line with a sharp carpenter's knife.

Step 13. The ridge is first glued with flexible tiles, and then closed with a special metal ridge element. Do not forget to overlap and coat all joints with bituminous mastic. It is advisable to leave a gap of several centimeters in the ridge for natural ventilation of the rafter system. The metal ridge covering is pasted over with soft tiles. It can be cut out of an ordinary or broken along the lines of the cornice perforation. Secure the shingles with four studs, two on each side. Place the ridge against the prevailing wind direction.

If the skate has sharp corner or works on laying the tiles are carried out in the cold season, then before bending the ridge tiles, the line should be warmed up with a construction hairdryer, otherwise it will crack. Some manufacturers promise that their tiles can be installed at -5 ° C. Do not believe or experiment, work should only be done in warm and dry weather. To prevent the edges of the ridge tiles from being visible, cut them slightly at an angle. There will be a narrow part at the top, slightly wider at the bottom. The wide, flat part of the factory cut will hide all the hand-crafted irregularities.

This completes the work on the roof, you can begin to insulate the roof.

Prices for shingles

flexible shingles

Video - Installation of flexible shingles

Few things can recreate the atmosphere of romantic Europe with cozy streets and memorable places like natural tiled roofs. Beauty and durability are the main features of such a coating.

We are ready to take over the roofing from ceramic tiles for your home, summer cottage or other functional areas. Professionally and in a short time, our roofers will transform your roof, making it a masterpiece of roofing art.

The cost of installing ceramic tiles

If you need to build a new roof and cover it with ceramics
	Type of work performed.	Cost, rub.	Unit of measurement.
	Installation scaffolding	From 140 rub.	M. sq.
	Mauerlat installation	From 250 rubles.	M.pog.
	Installing the rafter system	From 600 rub.	M. sq.
	Installation of waterproofing membrane	0t 70 rub.	M. sq.
	Installation of counter battens	From 60 rubles.	M. sq.
	Installation of step crate 50x50	From 160 rubles.	M. sq.
	Laying ceramic tiles	From 550 rub.	M. sq.
	The device of valleys, ends, cornices and abutments	From 500 rubles.	M.pog.
	Installing a ventilated ridge	From 450 rub.	M.pog.
	Installation of tubular snow retention	From 750 rub.	M.pog.
	Installation of a ventilation comb	From 80 rubles.	M.pog.

If you need it to be warm
	Installation of steam insulation	From 70 rubles.	M. sq.
	Internal filing with a board 25x150mm	From 160 rubles.	M. sq.
	Installation of insulation 200mm (4x50)	From 130 rub.	M. sq.

Additional accessories. The drain.
	Installing the gutter	From 550 rub.	M.pog.
	Downpipe installation	From 450 rub.	M.pog.

Eaves part of the roof
	Manufacturing of eaves frame (up to 1 meter wide)	From 400 rubles.	M.pog.
	Eaves filing with decor material (soffit lining PSP-panel)	From 200 rubles.	M.pog

Roof windows
	Installation roof window into the finished opening	From 5000 rub.	PCS.
	Installation of a roof window with the manufacture of an opening	From 8000 rub.	PCS.
	Installation of an external flashing of a window (for all types of roofs)	0t 1500 rub.	PCS.
	Installation of an internal flashing of a window (insulation)	From 600 rub.	PCS.

How we are working

Roof construction followed by covering with ceramic tiles

The installation of ceramic tiles is carried out according to stage no. Since ceramic tiles have a fairly impressive weight, a special reinforced rafter structure is needed under it. In this example, you can see how the process of building a roof with an area of ​​1450 sq. and its covering with ceramic tiles.

Stage 1

Receiving a call from the customer. Discussion of the proposed type of work. Receiving the project in electronic form.

Stage 2

Study of the project. Calculation of the cost of materials and work.

Coordination with the customer.

Stage 3

Departure of a specialist to the object. Carrying out measurements of the building to match the dimensions with the project data.

roofing works

Stage 8

Completion of roofing. Eaves filing. Installation of drainpipes. Dismantling of scaffolding. Delivery of the object to the customer.

The construction of the roof took place in parallel with the internal and exterior decoration at home. Despite certain difficulties, the roof was built within three months. The terms stipulated in the contract have been met.

We offer quality roofing materials from leading manufacturers. At a relatively low price, you can get a range of services: selection and purchase of tiles in Moscow, their installation and maintenance.

Natural ceramic tiles are considered to be one of the oldest roofing materials. During this time, she proved to consumers excellent performance characteristics, such roofs have been standing for many decades, if not centuries.

Modern technologies and materials have allowed manufacturers to significantly improve the characteristics of ceramic tiles and eliminate traditional disadvantages. One of the drawbacks was considered to be the great complexity and laboriousness of roofing work. Now this problem is not considered relevant, the designers have developed special locks, due to which not only the laying of tiles is facilitated and accelerated, but also the reliability, durability and tightness of the roof is significantly increased.

Ceramic tiles belong to an elite coating; such roofs can be seen only on prestigious houses, historical or religious buildings. Ordinary consumers are not very interested in the technology of installing tiles, but they all pay attention to the appearance. And it depends on two components.

Prices for ceramic tiles

Ceramic roof tiles

The geometry of the tiles

The more complex the geometry, the more expensive the material. The fact is that performance largely depends on geometry. industrial equipment, and this factor has a decisive influence on the cost of production.

What profile can a tile have?

1. Flat. The simplest profile and the cheapest tile. It is produced on continuous pressing lines with further piece-by-piece cutting. The disadvantage is that the strength of the fastening raises doubts among some developers, and the large overlap area reduces the useful dimensions of each tile.

   

   

2. Tray. Traditional European material, often used in religious buildings and monasteries. Hence the second name "Monk-Nun". For all operational parameters superior to flat.

   

3. S-shaped. In terms of the tightness of the coating, it occupies a leading position, the original shape completely excludes the rafter system from getting wet due to oblique rain.

   

   

There are differences between the types of locks for fixing individual tiles, but they do not affect the installation technology.

Ceramic tiles are a piece of roofing material that has a lot of advantages over other coatings. For example, a tile roof has a lifespan of hundreds of years. You can learn more about the advantages of shingles, their disadvantages and characteristics.

Features of the processing of external surfaces

In ancient times, ceramic tiles had only one color, which depended on the chemical composition of the clay. Currently, technology has gone so far that it has enabled manufacturers to change not only the color, but also physical characteristics finishing front surfaces shingles.

External cover type	Short description
	This is the natural color of the clay after annealing. Depending on the annealing temperature and chemical composition, the clay can have several shades. The natural color is indicated by the surface of the tile - it is a little rough, in many ways similar to the surface of facing red brick.
	This color is achieved due to the complication of the technology for the production of roofing material and allows you to achieve the most identical shades of different batches of tiles. The fact is that slight differences in colors create difficulties during installation. It has to be constantly mixed, otherwise large spots with multi-colored shades may appear on the roof. This significantly impairs the appearance of the building. To exclude such phenomena, a special clay milk with a stable chemical composition... After firing, the surface of all tiles becomes completely the same.
	Most difficult processing outer surface shingles, significantly improves all the performance characteristics of the roof. The disadvantage is a significant increase in cost. Glazed tiles are fired in two stages. At the first, only clay is fired, then a special composition is applied and the tiles are again fed into the furnace for re-firing.

Modern ceramic tiles resemble the traditional ones in only two things: the name and the material of manufacture. All other characteristics: appearance, size and shape, physical and operational characteristics differ significantly. The laying technology has also undergone significant changes, now the work is done much easier and faster. But this does not mean that it is as easy to install ceramic tiles as metal ones. roof coverings... As before, such work can only be performed by the most experienced, responsible and conscientious roofers.

Conventionally, the technology can be divided into two large and equally important stages: preparatory and main.

Preparatory stage

At this stage, the technology provides for the construction of a rafter system, lathing, special layers of waterproofing, etc. Let us consider these works in more detail.

For the installation of tiles, it is necessary to prepare measuring instruments, a grinder with a diamond disc for cutting tiles, a screwdriver, pliers and pliers, a stapler and a hacksaw for wood.

Important. During installation, be sure to follow the safety rules, work with fall arrest systems, and protect your breathing and eyes.

Step 1.

To do this, you need to find out the number of columns (vertical rows) of the tile. In this case, it must be borne in mind that the extension beyond the extreme lateral rafters should not exceed 33 cm.

Do the calculations very carefully, the tiles are expensive material, the surplus is Negative influence for the total estimated cost of the roof.

Each slope must be calculated separately, take into account the nomenclature and number of special additional elements and tiles, the need for sections, the length of the ridge and valleys, the presence of chimneys, ventilation pipes and other utilities. Then the data are summarized and only after that the material is purchased. Elements of the drainage system are purchased separately.

Step 2. Installation of a drip. It is needed to drain condensate that gets on the protective membrane. The element is nailed along the entire length of the cornice with an overlap of about 10 cm. When joining in valleys, metal strips are cut at appropriate angles, the amount of overlap depends on the parameters of the angle.

Step 3. Installation of lathing in valleys. These are very difficult and most dangerous sections of the rafter system, it is here that leaks most often appear, wooden structures rot prematurely. In the valleys, nail the bars of the diagonal counter-lattice to the rafter legs, the lower ends should be sawn flush with the metal cornice strips. In the valley, water protection is necessarily installed; you can use any modern canvas.

Step 4. Nail the membrane along the entire length of the slopes, direction from bottom to top, overlap within 10-15 cm. The canvas is fixed to the rafter legs with a stapler. The membrane is glued to the dropper of the eaves overhang with double-sided tape. Avoid wrinkling.

Step 5. Nail the counter-lattice bars, they are fixed to the rafters over the membrane.

Practical advice. The length of the bars is no more than 1.5 m, leave openings between them for natural ventilation of the under-roof space.

In order to make it convenient and safe to work on the slope, a temporary counter-lattice can be nailed to the bars in several places; it is used only for the movement of workers. In the future, as the main counter-lattice is being manufactured, the temporary bars are removed.

Step 6. Cover the valley and ridge on the other side of the ramp. The overlap of the material on the triangular slope should be about 5 cm. The upper row always fits on the lower one, the overlap in these places is at least ten centimeters.

Laying the material on the roof ridge

Step 7. Mount the counter grill on triangular and rectangular slopes. If the roof is complex hip, then bars are nailed on the ridges along the junction of the slopes, then vertical bars of the counter-lattice are packed, be sure to leave a gap for ventilation between them and the diagonal ones.

Step 8. On the perimeter of the roof along the eaves, nail the bottom piece of the sheathing, at the joints it must be filed for a tight connection. Perforated tape close the ventilation gap.

Installation of lower bars

Step 9. Installation of the bottom lathing. This is already more difficult and very responsible. technological operation, requires very careful markup. First, you need to know exactly the position of the bracket for fixing the gutter and the tiles of the first row.

Do not forget that the overhang of the tiles into the gutter should not exceed a third of its diameter. The specific values ​​are additionally adjusted depending on the vertical distance between the gutter and the tile.

After trying on several times, finally mark the position of the battens under the top of the shingles. Nail the bars of the counter-lattice only under the level, they should be strictly in a horizontal position.

Step 10. Nail the top ridge bars of the counter battens. Place them 3 cm from the skate line. The final marking of the position of the bars along the entire slope is best done with a special chopping rope.

Step 11. Installation of the lathing on the slopes. First, the distance calculation and marking are done. Take these operations very seriously, everyone depends on them. further work for laying the roof.

Important. The calculation of the counter-lattice must be done in such a way that whole rows of tiles fit on the slope without fail. Such work can only be performed by professional roofers; amateurs should not try to do them. The consequences of an error are the need to completely dismantle not only the roof, but also the counter battens.

Prices for a safety belt from various manufacturers

Safety belt

How to make the calculation and markup correctly?

1. Measure the distance between the bottom support bar and the last one near the ridge.
2. Remember that the distance at the overhang should be within 32–39 cm, in the rest of the sections the lathing step is 31.2–34.5 cm. The parameters may vary depending on the manufacturer, the exact data are always written in the instructions.
3. Divide the resulting length by the size of the allowable pitch so that you get a whole number of rows.
4. Using a tape measure, make marks on the first and last vertical slats of the counter-lattice.
5. The marking of the rows must be done with a special marking cord. Beat your lines for each row of the counter-lattice.

Please note that during the manufacture of counter-battens, roofers never use templates, but mark the position of each bar separately. Such an algorithm of actions significantly reduces the likelihood of errors. This completes the first stage, you can proceed to the second.

Tile laying technology

The installation of the tiles begins after the installation of the drainage system, in extreme cases, after screwing the gutter hooks. Each manufacturer of drainage systems recommends its own technology, you should read the instructions and follow its requirements.

Step 1. Work should start from the valley gutters, they drain water to the weirs. The elements are fixed to the lathing with special brackets with a step of ≈30 cm.

Step 2. Install the first gable tile on the gable overhang.

Important. On the reverse side of the tile there is a special support spike, its presence is caused by the technological features of production. This spike is not needed for the first row; it should be carefully knocked down with a hammer. Work carefully to avoid splitting the surface of the shingles. If the spike is left in place, it will interfere. correct installation cover.

Step 3. Mark 90 cm from the edge of the gable tile to the left. This is the distance between the three vertical columns of the tile. Make such marks along the entire length of the ramp, then use laces to mark the entire height of the roof. The lines will help to constantly monitor the correct position of the tiles, which simplifies the installation of the roof and makes various technological errors unlikely.

Step 4... Lay out the first bottom row, attach each tile to the batten rail with nails or self-tapping screws. To do this, it is necessary to drill holes in the ridge.

Step 5. Lay out the vertical column of the pediment row. All gable tiles also need to be fixed, but with at least two self-tapping screws.

Tile laying scheme, correct cutting. Pink showing shingles sawn in half lengthwise

Check the position of the rows made carefully. Everything is fine - excellent. Further, the tiles are laid out from right to left from bottom to top. Nothing is nailed in these areas, which greatly speeds up the roofing process. In places of valleys and at the ridge, the shingles need to be screwed again. The ridge elements are fixed with special devices.

Fastening the backbone and shingles near the valley

Laying the first roof tile on the ridge

Laying roof tiles on a ridge. Fastening of the lower extreme tile of the ridge

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Video - Technology of laying ceramic tiles

Installation of ceramic tiles is a difficult process for a person without experience, requiring reinforcement roof structure roofs. Ceramic tiles weigh ten times more than metal tiles, since their basis is clay. Any mistakes in laying the roofing material can lead to serious problems, so it is better to entrust all the work to professionals. But if you are confident in yourself and your strengths, then first read the instructions for installing ceramic tiles given in this article.

Installation rules

Remember the basic rules for installing ceramic tiles, which will simplify your work:

• Installation is carried out from right to left, from bottom to top
• Before laying the slabs, they are raised in 5-6 pieces on the roof and evenly distributed over it.
• Compared with metal roof for a roof made of ceramic tiles, it is necessary to strengthen the rafter structure by 15-20 percent
• The optimal roof slope for installing ceramic tiles is 50 degrees. Minimum slope - 11 degrees
• The step of the battens and counter battens is 30 centimeters
• It is better to deliver shingles to a construction site immediately before starting work
• Transportation of ceramic tiles is carried out by truck on pallets. The weight of one element is from 2 to 4 kilograms

Tile calculation

Use the table to determine the number of shingles. The usable width and length are the dimensions of the tiles. Measure the roof area and calculate accordingly.

Should you use ceramic tiles?

Many people have a question: "Is it necessary to cover the roof with ceramic tiles at all?" After all, it is difficult to assemble, and this process is laborious, because you need to lay one element at a time. It is much easier and faster to cover the roof with ondulin or metal tiles. Let's try to answer this question.

Here are some of the benefits of ceramic tiles that have led some homeowners to use them as roofing material:

• Ecological cleanliness. Ceramic tiles are made from clay according to all requirements. Thanks to firing at a temperature of 1000 degrees, the material acquires a brownish-red hue
• Duration of operation. Ceramic tiles can last up to 100 years! And no corrosion will occur. This material is durable and reliable, non-flammable and sound-absorbing
• Uniqueness. The roof covered with ceramic tiles is radically different from others. But this, again, is a matter of taste.
• High resistance to ultraviolet radiation, atmospheric precipitation
• Easy replacement of damaged roof areas

Disadvantages:

• Heavy weight
• High price
• Complexity of installation
• Brittleness under high mechanical stress

To use ceramic tiles or not - the choice is yours. Compare all the advantages and disadvantages, check them with other roofing materials and make the right choice!

Video about the installation of ceramic tiles

It is far from a secret that ceramic roofing tiles have earned their wide popularity among many developers due to their technical and aesthetic qualities. Confirmation of this can be considered already at least its service life, which can reach a hundred years. So, the manufacture of ceramic tiles is carried out using the sintering of natural materials, so the coating is able to withstand absolutely any impact from the outside natural factors... Of course, like any material, ceramic tiles also have some of their disadvantages, the main of which are the rather laborious installation of a ceramic tile roof, or rather, its individual elements, as well as the need to clearly and strictly follow the requirements of the installation instructions.

Starting work on the installation of ceramic tiles

Starting work with such a material as ceramic tiles, its installation can be conditionally divided into two main stages. During the first, all calculations are performed, and the bulk of the required materials is prepared, and in the second stage, the laying is carried out directly.

The required amount of ceramic tiles for the roof

When for a room such as a bath, the roof may include one, two or more slopes located at different angles. The construction of the tiles is carried out on the principle of overlap, the size of which is influenced, first of all, by the angle of the roof slope. If you subtract from the entire length of the ceramic part the segment that is necessary in order to form the overlap, you get a value that is called the useful length of the material. The useful width is usually indicated by the manufacturer in the instructions attached to the material.

Having received all the necessary data to calculate the area, you should calculate how much material is required for 1 m² of the roof. The data obtained should be rounded up, which is justified by the need to cut off part of the material.

After that, to the ready-made data, you need to add one more tiled row, which is required for the "fight" and trimming. It is also important not to forget to calculate the number that is necessary for the device of the skate and.

Calculation of the amount of waterproofing material

In the event that a ceramic tile is mounted with your own hands, it is worth remembering that if roof slope equals 22 degrees, then it is imperative to lay a layer of waterproofing. It is best to use roll material for this, which is laid according to the principle of overlapping the canvases at a distance of 10 centimeters, letting in the pediment and sloping lines of overhangs of 15 centimeters, observing the overlaps through the corners protruding over the corners of 15 - 20 centimeters. To calculate the required amount of material, you need to multiply the total pitched area by 1.4.

Laying a waterproofing membrane with an indentation of 30 centimeters from the ridge can guarantee the structure normal ventilation. The ridge itself must be equipped with a special insulation tape.

In the area of ​​the chimney passage and the junction of the walls, it will be necessary to leave an overflow in the event that the bathhouse on which the roof is mounted is attached directly to the room.

Calculation of the parameters of the lathing and rafter legs

So, the equipment for the production of ceramic tiles works in such a way that the normal weight of natural tiles, which falls on 1 m² of the roof, is 40 kilograms. We also need to add to this the potential snow load, especially this applies to specific regions with snowy winter... That is why, when equipping a rafter system, it is important to approach the process very carefully and execute it so that it is powerful. But there is no special need to use an exceptionally thick beam, it will only be possible to reduce the step of installing the rafters. The best solution for the rafter leg there will be a bar that has rectangular section about 75x150 millimeters. It will be more correct to install installation trusses every 60 - 90 centimeters.

For the device of the crate system, a beam with parameters of 50x50 millimeters is suitable, but you can also use a rectangular analogue (40x60 millimeters).

The rows of battens should be the same number as the horizontal rows of shingles. This also adds another row that will run along the eaves overhang.

Fastening ceramic tiles

The main elements of fastening the coating are zinc-treated screws and special clamps. Ceramic tile sheets must be carefully fixed in places where the wind load is high. It is imperative to fix the lower row, which runs along the cornice line, as well as the row located along the ridge and pediment. In the event that work on laying the material is carried out on a roof with a slope of more than 50 degrees, then ordinary elements should be additionally fixed according to the principle of a checkerboard pattern. With such a device, one tile element will be able to support adjacent ones located above and below.

Verification as part of the preparation phase

In order to avoid any errors associated, for example, with skewing of the material, during the construction of the sheathing system, the parameters of the mounted rafter system must be measured even before the start of direct laying.

1. First, the direction along which the horizontal laths are located is corrected, placing them according to the principle of a fan. In this case, the space left between the laths should increase towards the larger pediment.
2. Any deviations in the vertical direction should be removed according to the same fan principle, forming a slight backlash of parts in the desired direction.

It is worth starting checking work with pitched diagonals. Provided that their parameters differ from each other, each side of the slope should be measured separately.

Installation of ceramic tiles, details on the video:

The process of laying ceramic tiles

By arranging natural tiles on a base of waterproofing and insulation, it is important to equip the roof with two gaps for ventilation. The first of them should be located between the membrane of thermal and waterproofing, and the second between them and the coating. With this method of installation, all elements of insulation, wood, as well as the tiles themselves will be able to freely get rid of excess moisture, as a result of which the operational period will be significantly extended.

1. The first of the ventilation gaps can be mounted both with the help of a lathing device and by laying a 5 cm thick edged board along the ridge.
2. The counter-lattice device is designed to provide the second gap.

The order of laying ceramic elements:

• initially, without any fasteners, rows are laid along the ridge. If it is not possible to complete a row of whole parts, the ceramic elements can be cut using a grinding tool equipped with a stone cutting disc. You only need to prune on the ground;
• through the previously prepared directions, the installation lines of the vertical columns are marked. It is important to outline the line of the pediment and then the lines located through 3 - 5 vertically located rows;
• the shingles must be fixed exclusively in accordance with the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is best to start laying from the lower right roofing corner and move to the left and up;
• it is important not to forget about the device and fixing of additional parts intended for the pediment and ridge. Edged board mounted on a ridge must not have points of contact with the tiles with ridge tiles... Elements are trimmed to each other;