Warf the wall in the apartment. Wall insulation in the corner apartment from the inside

September 3, 2016
Specialization: finishing facades, interior decoration, construction of cottages, garages. Experience and gardener and gardener experience. There is also experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: the game is not a guitar and a lot more, to which there is not enough time :)

Recently, with a constant increase in energy prices, people seek to warm their apartments. This procedure really allows you to save on heating and make housing more comfortable, but at the same time it needs to be done correctly, so that you will subsequently encounter a number of problems. Therefore, in this article, we will look at how to perform the insulation of the walls of the apartment inside, and is there any sense to do this.

Is it worth insulating the walls from the inside

Heat the walls from the inside, of course, much easier than outside. However, I immediately note that this is not the best decision for several reasons:

  • after installing thermal insulation, the walls will stop heating at allAs a result, between them and the wall will be formed. This in turn can lead to the formation of mold and even the appearance of cracks on the walls;
  • at the arrangement of the insulation, inside there is no possibility to warm the overlap, as a result, the ceiling is also "cold", and condensate can be formed on it;
  • warming from the inside takes a living area. In a large apartment, this, of course, will be practically not noticeable, but for Khrushchev, where every square centimeter on the account, the useful area decreases significantly.

From here there is a question - why do internal insulation in general, if he has so many flaws? The fact is that it is not always possible to heat the walls outside. For example, if the facade of your home goes to the central city street or the square, the local authorities are unlikely to allow you to change it.

In addition, sometimes there is no possibility to perform outdoor insulation and for technical reasons, for example, if the wall adjoins the unheated elevator mine. So, the insulation of the wall from the inside in the apartment makes sense to implement in the following cases:

  • if there is no possibility to arrange the insulation outside;
  • if internal insulation is used as an addition to the outer. Even if the additional insulation on the walls will be quite thin - inside the housing will become much more comfortable.

After the insulation of the walls from the inside, it is necessary to ensure qualitative ventilation Premises, as the apartment, in fact, turns into a large hermetic thermos. This in turn will lead to an increase in humidity and deterioration of the microclimate.

In the remaining cases, it is better to warm the apartment outside.

Warming technology

The process of insulation of walls with their own hands from the inside includes several stages:

Each of these stages has its own nuances with whom we will read below.

Preparation of materials

It is necessary to start working on insulation, of course, with the preparation of materials. Since people often are interested, the better from the inside to insulate housing, I will say a few words about the insulation.

In principle, you can use any thermal insulation material, since the degree of thermal conductivity differs slightly. However, it should be borne in mind that the material will be placed in housing, but beyond. Therefore, the foam is better to refuse, but mineral wool is an good decision - This thermal insulator is much more eco-friendly, besides fireproof.

In addition to the insulation, you will need the following materials:

  • parosolation film - Prevents moisture penetration into the insulation. If not to use it, then the insulation is soaked with water, which entails a number of negative consequences;

  • material for mounting a frame - it can be wooden bars or boards. However, most often use normal profile For mounting. In this case, you will need more brackets and guides;
  • plasterboard or other material for the framework of the frame (lining, plastic panels etc.)

To perform the purchase of all these materials, you need to pre-calculate the square of the walls. Knowing what the price for each of the materials, you can prepare in advance the cost of internal insulation.

Preparation of walls

So, how to inside the walls of the apartment we figured out. Now proceed to work.

As already mentioned above, before heating the wall from the inside in the apartment, it must be prepared. This is done as follows:

  1. first of all, it is necessary to remove the old coating from the wall - wallpaper, tile, etc. If the wall is covered with gypsum putty or plaster, it is also desirable to remove it.
    As already mentioned above, moisture will be formed between the wall and the insulation, as a result of which the gypsum will be twisted, accordingly, it will not lead to anything good. Remove the plaster can be removed using a chisel and hammer or a perforator included in the impact mode.

  1. then be sure to handle the wall antiseptic meanswhich will prevent the appearance of mold. Instructions for the use of drugs are usually available on the package.

To achieve maximum effect From insulation, it is necessary to heat and ceiling, i.e. The overlap that will lay down to the freezing wall. Make it can be done wet method - Glit minvati plates and additionally fix them with dowels. The surface of the insulation is plastered, on our portal you can get detailed information About how it is done.

This is completed on this process.

Fitting the ventilation clearance

The process of adjusting the ventilation gap is carried out at the wall waterproofing stage. It should be noted that many construction sites are offered to perform insulation from the insulation without a ventilation gap.

A large disadvantage of such a scheme is that a moisture is necessarily formed between the wall and the insulation, which is not going anywhere, which leads to the destruction of the wall. Therefore, it is better to abandon it.

The improvement of the ventilation gap is carried out in such a sequence:

  1. attach to the walls wooden rails Thick about two centimeters. You can arrange them horizontally in a step of about a meter. Attach the rails to the walls can be a dowel-nail.
    Pre-rail must be treated protective compositionso that they do not rot in the humid environment;
  2. then you need to perform several things in the wall so that the ventilation clearance work. To do this, drill holes with a diameter of about 20 mm. So that the openings are not clogged, they need to be protected by a grid;
  3. further, a vapor barrier film is attached to the resulting crate. Moreover, it must be located so that the ventilation gap is formed between the wall and the film.

To drill holes from the inside in panel house For dowel-nails, you should use a perforator with a winning drill.

Montage Karcasa

The frame is the vertical racks, which are located in a step equal to the width of the plates of the heat insulator. So that the insulation reliably lay down to the racks, the step between them can be done even on a centimeter less than the width of the insulation.

The process of assembling the framework is as follows:

  1. first of all, apply marking on the walls, according to which the racks and guides will be located. It should be noted that the distance between the wall (vaporizolation in our case) and the guides that will be mounted on the ceiling and the floor must be no less than the thickness of the heat insulator so that the insulation can be placed inside the frame;
  2. next, the brackets that will hold the racks are attached to the rains of vapor insulation on the markup. For each rack, use a multiple bracket. For the installation of the latter, screws are usually used;
  3. then on the floor and the ceiling are attached guides for racks. They must be located strictly opposite each other so that the racks stood vertically. Therefore, before performing their installation, you should make sure the markup accuracy;
  4. next, the racks are inserted into the guides and fixed by the brackets, as shown in the diagram above.

For cutting metal profile You can use special metal scissors.

By the same principle, the installation of the frame from BRUSEV is carried out. The only thing in this case are not used guides, so the racks are installed simply on the markup.

Installation of the insulation is carried out extremely simple - if the racks are correct, then the plates of Minvati are simply inserted between them, and it does not need them additional fixation. The only thing that did not have the bridges of the cold should be filled with insulation and the space between the wall and racks.

To do this, you can cut mineral wool strips of the required dimensions. Cut the plates you can routine wood with a tree.

Fibers Minvati getting on the skin and especially in the eyes, cause strong irritation. Therefore, when working with it, use personal protective equipment.

If slots are formed between the plates of minvata, they are also necessary to fill in insulation. In addition, it is necessary to ensure a tight fit of minvati to the floor and ceiling. I note that these, at first glance, small things should not be neglected, since they largely depends on the effectiveness of insulation.

After the insulation is laid, another layer of vapor insulation should be fixed on the frame. If the frame is wooden, then for its fixation you can use the construction stapler.

If the carcass is metallic, vaporizolation can be temporarily fixed with scotch. Subsequently, the film will be fixed with the material of the trim.

People often are interested in the forums - how to insulate the wall from the inside in angular apartment? In fact, the technology is no different.

Saving framework

As a rule, the painting of the frame in the apartment is carried out by plasterboard. So finally, I will briefly describe the technology of its installation and further finishes:

  1. work should be started with cutting plasterboard on sheets suitable size. To do this, apply marking onto sheets, then cut the cardboard mounting knife on one side by the intended line, after which the sheet is breaking, and then cut the cardboard on the other side;
  2. prepared sheets should be attached to the frame with the help of self-samples, which should be located apart 5-10 cm. Self-tapping caps must be recessed;

  1. then at the joints of the sheets you need to cut the champecker with a width of 5 mm. If the end is rounded, the brass is not needed;
  2. then a special self-adhesive grid is pasted on the seams between the sheets;

  1. next, the hats of self-tapping and joints between sheets are embarrassed by plaster powder;
  2. after that, the entire surface of the walls is put off. On our portal, you can find detailed information on how to properly perform spatlement;
  3. then the surface is polished by a special grater to which the grid is worn:
  4. after that, another layer of finishing putty is applied and the final grinding is performed.

Perform grinding is necessary with bright lighting. In this case, you will see all flaws that need to be eliminated.

On this, the process of plating and finishing the wall is completed. Now it can be painted or, for example, shove wallpaper on it.

But if the cladding is used or wooden panels, then they are simply attached to the frame of self-drawing. Accordingly, there is much less time on the trim.

Here, in fact, all information on how to insulate the walls of the apartment from the inside with their own hands.

Output

I told you how inspiring walls with minimal negative consequences. Therefore, do not try to simplify the process and move away from the above technology. Its compliance will allow you to make an apartment really warm and cozy.

Additional information contains video in this article. If you encounter any difficulties in the process of insulation or some moments are incomprehensible to you, ask questions in the comments, and I will gladly answer you.

September 3, 2016.

If you want to express your gratitude, add clarification or objection to ask the author - add a comment or tell me thanks!

Most built panel and brick houses did not provide for the insulation of facades. Concrete and brick have high density and low heat insulating properties. Corollary - cold walls and uncomfortable temperature. There are several ways of insulation from the inside, the main thing is to avoid the appearance of dampness.

Dew point - physics phenomena

Cold wall is not the only drawback of panel or brick houses. Often, the dampness and the mold associated with it appear on it. The best way Fight - Wall insulation outside (this is also a SNiP requirement), but it is not always possible. Therefore, it is necessary to fight with a cold wall, insulating it from the inside. But there are your pitfalls.

Even if the cold wall was dry before, then with insulation, dampness may appear from the inside. And the so-called dew point will be to blame.

The dew point is the conditional border on which the water vapor temperature becomes equal to the temperature of the condensate formation. It manifests itself, naturally, in the cold season. With proper design of the house (taking into account the peculiarities of the region) it is approximately in the middle of the thickness of the facade of a homogeneous material on the density of the material.

If the insulation is insulated, the dew point shifts towards the decrease in the density (that is, to the outer surface of the wall). When insulation from the inside - it moves inside, and the condensate may appear on the surface of the main wall or inside the insulation.

And in order to assess the scale of possible damage, it suffices to say that as a result of the vital activity of one person, about 4 liters of water evaporates per day (cooking, wet cleaning, Personal hygiene, washing, etc.).

Features of the insulation of the cold wall from the inside

There are several ways capable of preventing condensate on insulated from the inside of the wall:

  1. Creating a layer of out heat insulating material With vapor permeability, less than that of the facade material.
  2. Warming using materials with minimal water absorption.
  3. The use of technology of ventilated facades (including internal placement).

Liquid thermal insulation

Polyurene Foolder

The insulation of PPU meets all the requirements for vapor barrier, water absorption and lack of seams. Therefore, even if the dew point will be inside the layer, it will remain "conditional", since the condensate loss in playproof materials absent. It turns out from the side of the room completely sealed thermal insulation layer.

The environmental friendliness of the PPU after the rejection meets the requirements for residential premises. Harmful evaporation is present only when mixing components in the process of spraying - after polymerization, the structure of the material remains stable.

Apply thermal insulation between the crate and sewing moisture resistant sheet materials (GLC, OSP or plywood). In fact, it is like a large national sandwich panel.

The lack of a method is to use special equipment.

Liquid ceramics

This is a relatively young thermal insulation material, the action of which is based on the use of two principles - the creation of a thin layer with high heat transfer resistance and reflection of heat towards the radiation source.

Of course, the thin heat insulating layer cannot provide good thermal insulation - this is auxiliary, but mandatory factor. Although it gives a fairly high effect - the wall becomes a touch of much "warmer".

The main task to reduce heat loss is performed by microscopic ceramic spheres, which reflect infrared radiation.

According to the manufacturers, the effect of a layer of 1.5 mm can be compared with thermal insulation by foam 5 cm thick or mineral wool 6.5 cm.

The method of applying the same as for acrylic paint (the basis is the same). After polymerization, a dense and durable film is formed on the surface, and latex additives improve waterproofing properties.

Rolled heat insulation

Penophol

Penofol is a combination of foam polyethylene with aluminum foil. This is a whole series of materials (including one-sided, bilateral, laminated, with adhesive layer). Moreover, it can be used both in combination with other heat-insulating materials and independently. By the way, the foofol is popular with the insulation of the bath from the inside, and there is much more couple there than in the usual residential room.

For the insulation of the cold wall, a foofol with one foil layer (one-sided) and a thickness of up to 5 mm is used.

In the case of both liquid ceramics, the effect is achieved due to the low thermal conductivity of foamed polyethylene, as well as its low vapor permeability and high reflecting foil properties (up to 97%).

But in contrast to the seamless coatings of complete sealing and preventing the appearance of the cold bridges, it is impossible to achieve. Consequently, condensate can be formed on the foil surface. Even the mandatory sealing of the joints of the adhesive aluminum foil will still leave inside the slot between the adjacent sheets.

The method of combating the formation of condensate on the traditional foil - a doomlet with a ventilated gap between the foam and external facing.

Polyfom

Another variant of foamed polyethylene, but already made in the form of peculiar wallpaper - a layer of paper is located on both sides. Polyf and designed to stick on it wallpaper.

Of course, its thermal insulation properties are not as high as the foam, but to make the cold wall to the touch warmer, they are quite enough.

In most cases, a minor thickness of the insulation does not lead to the movement of the dew point to the inner surface.

Failure of the method - insulation only dry wall.

Insulation expanded polystyrene

The polystyrene foam (or extruded polystyrene foam) is glued to the prepared and leveling wall. Both materials are very low water absorption (especially extruded polystyrene foam), therefore the formation of condensate in the insulation layer is excluded. The main danger is its appearance on the surface of a warmed wall.

Therefore, it is best to glue sheets on special hydrophobic adhesive mixtures applied over the entire surface of the sheets. And to prevent water steam penetration from the side of the room to handle seam sealants (you can also use a foam with a step or a spike-groove compound).

Finishing can be carried out in two ways:

  • reinforcement of the grid and applying plaster;
  • packing panels carrier carcassenshrined to the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls (false wall of plasterboard).

Mineral wool insulation

Mineral wool does not meet the requirements for vapor permeability and water absorption for insulation from the inside. But it can be used.

The main thing is to ensure maximum protection from wet air From the side of the room and weathering of water vapor from the layer of insulation. That is, perform ventilated facade, but in reverse sequence: wall, clearance, vapor-permeable membrane, mineral wool, vapor barrier film, decorative cladding indoors.

It is necessary to create a false wall at a distance of 2-3 cm from the main wall. And to weather vapor water from below and on top to make ventilation holes.

Millions of people living in apartments are in their own experience know how cold in them can be in winter. Work central heating Far from ideal, and autonomous - it is expensive (both installation, and in this case, increasing the cost of utilities).

In order to improve the microclimate in the room with, as well as avoid the appearance of mold (which is also a problem is common), to actually carry out the insulation of the apartment.

Moreover, first of all, the person most often decides to make it from the inside, and insulate only the walls - it is easier, and cheaper, and you can cope with your own hands, without resorting to help (paid, of course) specialists.

1 On the relevance and effectiveness of internal insulation

Initially, you should consider the issue overall efficiency Work from the inside. It should be immediately noted that such an (internal) insulation is always and everywhere (at home, in the apartment, in the garage, in the bath and so on) will be less effective than the external. The bottom line is that the cold will still penetrate the inside of the room - since concrete (or brick) is not a substantial obstacle for him.

If the insulation is located only inside the apartment - it can even become harmful to the house: the dew point will shift, and condensate will be formed on the walls of the walls. As a consequence - under the insulation of the walls will turn mold, which a person will not even see.

In this way, you can make the following conclusion: If there is no possibility to insulate the wall of the house outside - from the inside, work is not always safe for the design itself. Moreover outdoor finish It should not necessarily be extremely effective - even a small layer of heat and waterproofing and will already be useful and will be able to prevent displacement of the dew point.

The inner insulation of the walls will make it possible to create a kind of "thermos" inside the apartment: heat will "lock" in the room and will not be able to go out. This, by the way, is relevant not only for exterior walls - if the apartment next door is the cold - adjacent partition can also be inspired. It is easy to understand the need for work - easy: just attach your hand on this wall. I felt a tangible cold - it means that insulation is relevant.

Especially worry about the insulation of the walls is recommended to those who live in the corner apartment - the rooms located on the corner of the house are the coldest, and the humidity in them is often elevated. Moreover, insulation from the inside in them should be performed only after the insulation was performed outside - otherwise the mold and fungus on the surface will appear very, very quickly.

In addition to protecting apartments from cold and moisture, the installation of the insulation is also good because the sound insulation of the room is significantly improved. It is very relevant for residents of large cities, especially for those who live near:

  • promon;
  • construction sites;
  • automotive, railways;
  • places of large cluster of people (markets, shopping centers, stadiums);
  • garages;
  • airports.

In such cases, sound insulation is an equally relevant question than insulation. Moreover modern insulation Usually combines these qualities - finishing the wall of the house at the same time and insulates the design, and reduces the noise level in the room as.

1.1 Why is it actually insulated by the walls?

Most often in the apartments are insulation of only one "side" of the design - walls. In most cases, this is enough enough to significantly improve the microclimate in the room.

On the insulation of the floor and the ceiling, you can think about the inhabitants of the first (first and last) floors. If your gender and ceiling borders with a neighboring apartment - their thermal insulation is not a mandatory question, unless you want to achieve the highest possible result.

The insulation of these surfaces inside the apartments is not too relevant for the following reasons:

  1. The thermal insulation "takes away" at least 5 (and most often - more) cm of free space. With the height of the ceilings of the apartment in 2.30 (on average), the extra 5-15 cm will be tangible.
  2. The floor of the apartment is unlikely to be cold, because the heat will rise from the neighbors living under you.
  3. Floor insulation will create a surface height difference, which is not always convenient.
  4. Floor insulation - the procedure is much more complicated than the thermal insulation of the walls, and not every person can cope with their own hands.

Works on the insulation of the ceiling inside the apartments have greater relevance than floor insulation - due to the fact that the heated air always rises up. In the absence of an effective "barrier" (which is the insulation), he will freely leave the room, "heated" the floor with your neighbors from above. So if the walls you have already insulated, and the temperature of the house is still not comfortable enough - you can think about the ceiling finish with.

1.2 On the pros and cons of the internal isolation

Compared to external, work inside panel house They have a number of differences - both positive and negative. Consider what advantages this method possesses:

  • you can warm the wall with your own hands, without the use of climbing equipment;
  • you can carry out work at any time of the year (whereas outside the surface can be insulated only in warm, dry and windless weather);
  • if necessary, the insulation can be removed at any time / repaired the structure.

The shortcomings of the arrangement of apartments from the inside were already mentioned above, but just in case they will make a specific list of their list:

  • reduction of free space indoors;
  • low efficiency in the absence of outdoor insulation;
  • the need for complete reworking of repair indoors (while the insulation, mounted outside, does not require dismantling finishing materials in the House).

2 On the choice of material

Internal heat and sound insulation can be performed on several technologies. Diffensing them from each other selected insulation (or rather - its type). It can be:

  1. List materials: Polyfoam, extruded polystyrene foam (EPPS), mineral wool plates.
  2. Roll materials: Mineral wool foamed polyethylene.
  3. Sprayed (liquid) materials: foamed polyurethane foam (PPU) ,.

However, each insulation from the list above has a number of features - so we will consider them separately.

2.1 The use of foam and extruded polystyrene foam (EPPS)

These materials can be combined into one category, since the differences between them are insignificant, and consist only in a number of characteristics that will practically do not affect the efficiency of work. Dadim brief description These insulators: light plates from white (foam) or orange (EPPS) granules in which air is enclosed.

They are supplied in the form of plates different sizes (most often - in the range of about 1 x 2 m) and with different thickness - from it, actually, efficiency depends: the thicker layer - the warmer will be indoors.

Of the disadvantages of insulation of the penplex (Epps mark) or foam, the following items can be distinguished:

  • the presence of junctions between sheets (and each joint is the extra chance for the penetration of cold and moisture);
  • soundproofing when using the material - far from ideal (except when using a layer of 10+ cm thick);
  • the need to level the surface to the perfectly level level.

Separately, it should be said about such a minus as a significant reduction in space indoor. The insulation layer can be at least 5 cm (and this is only the insulation itself), the loss of which will be noticeable, especially if we consider that most apartments have not too much area.

Now consider what exactly needs to be done to insulate the surface of the penplex (foam) with their own hands:

  1. The surface is determined from the finishing materials to the "naked" wall, even is removed.
  2. The surface of the surface is checked - the level applies for this. In the presence of serious drops, convexities, pridins - it is necessary to eliminate them using the plaster.
  3. The surface is inspected for cracks and holes. If you have it, you should eliminate them using stucco.
  4. The sheets of material are cut on more convenient parts (however, not too small - the optimal size will be about 1 x 1.5 m).
  5. The resulting segments are "trying on" to the wall.
  6. Fitting segments is performed.
  7. The adhesive mixture is prepared.
  8. The mixture is evenly distributed to the surface of the insulation.
  9. The segment is tightly pressed against the wall, starting from the bottom angle.
  10. To fix the material can be additionally fixed using dowels (optimally - 5 pieces: 4 in the corners, 10-15 cm from the edge, and 1 - in the center).

At the same time, be careful: the dowels should not damage the wiring and should not be too long - if the partition is too thin.

Thereafter:

  1. Montage of insulation continues, moving sobc.
  2. Each next row stacked with a displacement relative to the previous one.
  3. After installing all segments and complete drying of the mixture - joints are stucked by plaster / mounting foam/ rushed with construction scotch.
  4. A vapor barrier film is pasted (not necessarily, but preferably).

2.2 Stages of work when using foam (video)


2.3 Application of mineral wool (plates and rolls)

This material is poorly suitable for the work of this type. Choose it now it is extremely rare, mostly - we are walking for the cheapness. In its characteristics, it is close to foam, however, the properties of Minvati make it a less relevant option. List of flaws - Next:

  • the material is inclined to accumulate moisture;
  • the material comes and lures both;
  • the dying cotton wool is harmful to human health (especially if children or allergies live in the house);
  • soundproofing is no better than foamflast (and even worse);
  • increased complexity during operation (it is especially difficult to warm the surface with the maintenance of minvati rolls);
  • the presence of junctions between segments.

Tangible advantages are not available compared to other materials, except, except that, cheap and lack of need for an ideally smooth surface. And then the difference in value, compared with the same foam, it will be minimal.

Consider the steps that will enable the wall with this material with your own hands:

  1. The surface is determined from finishing materials to the "naked" wall.
  2. The surface is checked for the presence of holes, cracks. In the presence - they are embarrassed by plaster.
  3. The material cuts into segments convenient for mounting the value.
  4. Installation of crates.
  5. The material is stacked between the rails.
  6. Additionally, the material is attached to the dowels.
  7. Putting a vapor barrier film on top of the rails.
  8. Further finishing works are performed.

2.4 Application of foamed polyethylene

Of the existing insulation, this option is great for work on the isolation of apartments in the panel house from the inside. It is a rigid roll of material, on the one hand there is a foil layer, on the other - foamed polyethylene.

With it, sound insulation is performed - in this regard, the material exceeds the above-mentioned options. Its significant plus is the thickness: several millimeters (4-5) of foam foams are equal to several centimeters (3-4) foam. Thus, it will minimize the space in the room.

In addition, the foil side (turning inside the apartments) strengthens the "thermos effect", shielding (reflecting) heat and without releasing it from the room. Yes, and in terms of work, it is easier to dozens of times, than and the foam, and the Minvat - to insulate with its help the wall of the corner (or any other) the apartment can be simple, and quickly.

2.5

At the same time, its use does not require aligning the surface and creating a multi-layer "cake".

Stages are as follows:

  1. Surface - hesitating from dirt, old finishing materials.
  2. Cracks and holes (if available) - close up by plaster.
  3. The material is glued to the surface with a special glue.

All - on this process of insulation of the apartment of the panel building ends, and you can begin to finish.

2.6 Stages of work when using foamed polyethylene (video)


2.7 Application of foamed polyurethane foam (PPU)

By efficiency, this material ranks first in the list of modern insulators. It has the best qualitative characteristics and practically deprived of flaws. The advantages of PPU spraying technology can be attributed:

  • no joints;
  • absolute moisture resistance;
  • a small thickness of the layer at high efficiency (where 5-10 cm of foam or minvati is required, 2-3 cm PPU can be used, and the result will be better);
  • high coating speed (for 1 work shift - 8 hours - you can process about 100 "squares" of the surface, that is, all the external walls in any of the average apartments).

Its use is particularly relevant for the corner room - since the angles themselves often create a problem when insulation, and it is not always possible to isolate them with high qualityly. PPUs are used for the insulation of apartments both from the inside and outside.

Of the cons of such isolation of apartments, the following factors can be distinguished:

  • relatively high cost;
  • the impossibility of fulfilling with your own hands (this requires a special installation).

Stages of work when using technology - as follows:

  1. The surface is inspired from old materials.
  2. Cracks and holes - close up with plaster (however, when using PPU, this item is not indispensable).
  3. The PPU is prepared (of the two components that are stirred right in place in the tank of the installation).
  4. The material is sprayed on the wall.

The material representing a liquid suspension, when contacting air in a few seconds, throws out, and a dense monolithic crust is formed on the wall surface, tightly glued to the surface.

Most of the built panel and brick houses did not provide for the insulation of facades. Concrete and brick have high density and low thermal insulation properties. Corollary - cold walls and uncomfortable temperature. There are several ways of insulation from the inside, the main thing is to avoid the appearance of dampness.

Dew point - physics phenomena

Cold wall is not the only drawback of panel or brick houses. Often, the dampness and the mold associated with it appear on it. The best way to combat - the insulation of the wall outside (this is also the requirement of SNiP), but it is not always possible. Therefore, it is necessary to fight with a cold wall, insulating it from the inside. But there are your pitfalls.

Even if the cold wall was dry before, then with insulation, dampness may appear from the inside. And the so-called dew point will be to blame.

The dew point is the conditional border on which the water vapor temperature becomes equal to the temperature of the condensate formation. It manifests itself, naturally, in the cold season. With proper design of the house (taking into account the peculiarities of the region) it is approximately in the middle of the thickness of the facade of a homogeneous material on the density of the material.

If the insulation is insulated, the dew point shifts towards the decrease in the density (that is, to the outer surface of the wall). When insulation from the inside - it moves inside, and the condensate may appear on the surface of the main wall or inside the insulation.

And in order to assess the scale of possible damage, it suffices to say that as a result of the vital activity of one person, about 4 liters of water evaporates during the day (cooking, wet cleaning, personal hygiene, washing, etc.).

Features of the insulation of the cold wall from the inside

There are several ways capable of preventing condensate on insulated from the inside of the wall:

  1. Creating a layer of thermal insulation material with vapor permeability is less than that of the facade material.
  2. Warming using materials with minimal water absorption.
  3. The use of technology of ventilated facades (including internal placement).

Liquid thermal insulation

Polyurene Foolder

The insulation of PPU meets all the requirements for vapor barrier, water absorption and lack of seams. Therefore, even if there is a point of dew inside the layer, it will remain "conditional", since there is no condensate condensation in the playproof materials. It turns out from the side of the room completely sealed thermal insulation layer.

The environmental friendliness of the PPU after the rejection meets the requirements for residential premises. Harmful evaporation is present only when mixing components in the process of spraying - after polymerization, the structure of the material remains stable.

They apply thermal insulation between the cage and are sewn with moisture-resistant sheet materials (GLC, OSP or plywood). In fact, it is like a large national sandwich panel.

The lack of a method is to use special equipment.

Liquid ceramics

This is a relatively young thermal insulation material, the action of which is based on the use of two principles - the creation of a thin layer with high heat transfer resistance and reflection of heat towards the radiation source.

Of course, the thin heat insulating layer cannot provide good thermal insulation - this is auxiliary, but mandatory factor. Although it gives a fairly high effect - the wall becomes a touch of much "warmer".

The main task to reduce heat loss is performed by microscopic ceramic spheres, which reflect infrared radiation.

According to the manufacturers, the effect of a layer of 1.5 mm can be compared with thermal insulation by foam 5 cm thick or mineral wool 6.5 cm.

The method of applying the same as for acrylic paint (the basis is the same). After polymerization, a dense and durable film is formed on the surface, and latex additives improve waterproofing properties.

Rolled heat insulation

Penophol

Penofol is a combination of foamed polyethylene with aluminum foil. This is a whole series of materials (including one-sided, bilateral, laminated, with adhesive layer). Moreover, it can be used both in combination with other heat-insulating materials and independently. By the way, the foofol is popular with the insulation of the bath from the inside, and there is much more couple there than in the usual residential room.

For the insulation of the cold wall, a foofol with one foil layer (one-sided) and a thickness of up to 5 mm is used.

In the case of both liquid ceramics, the effect is achieved due to the low thermal conductivity of foamed polyethylene, as well as its low vapor permeability and high reflecting foil properties (up to 97%).

But in contrast to the seamless coatings of complete sealing and preventing the appearance of the cold bridges, it is impossible to achieve. Consequently, condensate can be formed on the foil surface. Even the mandatory sealing of the joints of the adhesive aluminum foil will still leave inside the slot between the adjacent sheets.

The method of combating the formation of condensate on the traditional foil - a doomlet with a ventilated gap between the foam and external facing.

Polyfom

Another variant of foamed polyethylene, but already made in the form of peculiar wallpaper - a layer of paper is located on both sides. Polyf and designed to stick on it wallpaper.

Of course, its thermal insulation properties are not as high as the foam, but to make the cold wall to the touch warmer, they are quite enough.

In most cases, a minor thickness of the insulation does not lead to the movement of the dew point to the inner surface.

Failure of the method - insulation only dry wall.

Insulation expanded polystyrene

The polystyrene foam (or extruded polystyrene foam) is glued to the prepared and leveling wall. Both materials have very low water absorption (especially extruded polystyrene foam), therefore the formation of condensate in the insulation layer is excluded. The main danger is its appearance on the surface of a warmed wall.

Therefore, it is best to glue sheets on special hydrophobic adhesive mixtures applied over the entire surface of the sheets. And to prevent water steam penetration from the side of the room to handle seam sealants (you can also use a foam with a step or a spike-groove compound).

Finishing can be carried out in two ways:

  • reinforcement of the grid and applying plaster;
  • the covering panels on the bearing frame, fixed to the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls (false wall made of plasterboard).

Mineral wool insulation

Mineral wool does not meet the requirements for vapor permeability and water absorption for insulation from the inside. But it can be used.

The main thing is to ensure maximum protection against wet air from the side of the room and weathering of water vapor from the insulation layer. That is, perform ventilated facade, but in reverse sequence: wall, gap, vapor-permeable membrane, mineral wool, vapor barrier film, decorative facing indoors.

It is necessary to create a false wall at a distance of 2-3 cm from the main wall. And to weather vapor water from below and on top to make ventilation holes.

The apartment is insulated from the inside in several cases: if the apartment or the angular room, if apartment house - panel, and if they want to save on heating. In all three cases, ways to insulate the wall in the apartment from within, the same, and are reduced to the choice of options for fastening certain rooms. So, before you insulate the apartment, it is worth the task suitable technology and construction Materials For thermal insulation.

Technology insulation of walls inside the apartment

Although outdoor thermal insulation It works more efficiently, often make inner insulation of premises in the apartment only because it is more convenient, cheaper and faster. The main disadvantage of this method is to reduce the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room. Advantages more: this is the ability to fulfill all the work on your own and without leaving the apartment, big choice Thermal insulation materials and embodiments of their fastening, as well as the use of a conventional set of home tools when insulating the walls in the apartment from the inside. In parallel with the overall effect - an increase in temperature in the apartment - the effect of energy saving to ensure the work of the heating system is manifested.

From the shortcomings, which should also be paid attention to, you can list the following:

  1. The inner insulation of the wall does not contribute to the accumulation of heat - the material simply reduces heat losseswhich can be 9-14%;
  2. Upon insulation of the room from the inside with their own hands, the so-called. The "dew point" is formed between the material material and the heat insulator, less often - inside the insulation, therefore condensate may appear in the wall, which will lead to the appearance of mold and other fungal diseases;
  3. Technological disorders of the process internal insulation Let's lead to the freezing of the surface, which, in turn, will cause the destruction of the walls.

The composition of the insulation cake, stacked inside on the wall, it is necessary to include vapor insulation to protect against moisture.


Scroll necessary work and materials for high-quality insulation:

  1. Need to buy quality parosolation material (film), as well as moisture-proof tape, which will be connected joints of roll vapor barrier;
  2. The main material of the insulation should be with low vapor permeability, if possible, this indicator should be less vapor permeability of the walls so that it can only move in one direction - from the apartment outside, and not vice versa;
  3. If the thermal insulation material is glued to the wall, then you need to buy glue. The surface of the insulation is completely lubricated with a layer with a layer of 3-5 mm so that all the irregularities of the wall filled;
  4. Since the insulation will delay moisture, leaving her indoors, insulated rooms must be equipped supply-exhaust ventilation. Excess moisture for qualitative insulation Without ventilation, it will be possible to observe on glass windows in the form of drowshes - windows will begin to cry. Also instead of (together) with ventilation devices it will be necessary to install on PVC frame ventilation valves Type "Aereco", "Air-Box" or "Regel-AIR".

What else needs to be done before heating the wall in the corner apartment from the inside:

  1. Calculations are carried out to determine the thickness of the heat insulation layer. The thickness of the insulation in a brick or other house depends on average temperature in the winter region;
  2. The surface of the insulated wall in front of the works is protected by primer, which protects the material of the walls from mold, and enhances the adhesive properties of surfaces;
  3. The insulation is pasted or attached to a dowel after complete surface drying.

Types of insulation for apartments

Mineral wool (stone, basalt, fiberglass) is a heater for internal surfaces, but insulation of walls inside the apartment with concrete walls Requires the use of high density material to create a steamproof surface. Minvata "breathes", so when used on the walls under the insulation, condensate may appear. Therefore, when choosing minvati, you need to buy material only with the highest density, for example, like polystyrene foam. Do not forget about vapor barrier - without it the possibility of condensate appearance also rises.

Polystyrene foam, foam or penplex for insulation of walls from inside are suitable, as they have low thermal conductivity and high enough density. Dense material is a smaller thickness of the insulating layer, and therefore saving the useful area. In addition, the weight of these thermal insulation materials is small, so it will be easy to work with them, and even working surface Allows you to quickly fasten the plates on any wall and in any way - on glue or on a dowel. EPP and its varieties can be easily cut with a conventional knife, but with such a lightness mechanical processing The material is well withstanding efforts to compress.

The use of these insulation eliminates the emergence of the "dew point" in the heat insulator, so vaporizolation is not needed. The joints of the insulation slabs are isolated by mounting foam, which automatically eliminates the appearance of "cold bridges". In addition, the plates of extruded polystyrene foam are supplied with special locking grooves and spikes that are tight and firmly combined the surfaces in the monolith, so such insulation of walls inside the apartment will be much tougher than the insulation of the Minvata. Mounting such plates are simple enough: they are put in a row and fasten with plastic umbrella dowels through the wall.

One of the essential deficiencies of foam and fasteners are a low noise insulation coefficient. The combustibility and separation of toxic substances are also the negative properties of these materials. Therefore, in order to level or at least minimize these negative moments, a wall insulated with expanded polystyrene should be placed or closed with plasterboard (also followed by a layer of plaster).

Polyurethane foam - material that foams when applied to the surface, and it will be needed to work with it special equipment. But the effect of such thermal insulation is much higher than from the insulation of the materials described above, since the frozen foam forms a seamless dense and rigid surface for which it is not necessary to pre-lay pair-and waterproofing.

Before insulationing the angular room of polyurethane foam, on its surface, they mount a wooden or metal carcass, between whose profiles and apply liquid heat insulation. The framework is necessary in order for it after insulation it was possible to mount the shears of the objects - drywall, Faneru, OSB, etc.

In addition, when working with polyurethane foam, the following qualities appear:

  1. Polyurethane foam quickly hardens, and give him necessary forms You can trim. For example, form a smooth and straight angle, or cut a niche in the body of the insulation;
  2. PPU is perfectly isolates the places of "cold bridges" on surface compounds;
  3. The surface of the frozen polyurethane foam is well unlocked with smooth and curvilinear surfaces;
  4. PPU is convenient to use when insulating rooms with non-standard geometric dimensions and architectural forms;
  5. The surface of the PPU can be separated by any decorative materials, ranging from drywall, and ending with a cafeter.

Still how to insulate an apartment in a panel house from within? Cork coating is natural insulationmanufactured in plates or rolls. Material - cork tree, which is the key to ecology inner coating. In addition to insulation, the plug is well insulates noises, and the texture of the plates does not require additional decoration.


The only condition that will have to ensure before heating the wall in the apartment from within the plug - a flat surface, so before sticking the plates or rolls from the tube, the surface is aligned with shockting. To do this, you need to remove old paint, blotching or plaster, handle the wall with an antiseptic and primed. Last operation - applying layer of plaster, which after its drying can be attached cork coating. The plug is glued to the surface of the wall on the same glue that is used and for sticking the foam, if it fails to acquire a special glue composition.


In addition to environmental friendliness, low thermal conductivity coefficient and excellent sound insulation, dignity at traffic jam:

  1. Simple, fast and easy installation, neat and clean work;
  2. Beautiful texture of the coating;
  3. Warm to the touch velvety surface;
  4. Different forms of plates and rolls, different texture and drawings on the surface;
  5. Cork thermal insulator has a small thickness, so insulation does not occupy a lot of space in the room and does not take useful Square premises.

Thermal insulation materials based on foams are made in rolls with a thickness of 2-10 mm. The band has a one-sided foil coating that directs heat radiation back to the room.

Technology of work with foam:

  1. Before fastening the foam walls, it is necessary to clean from old coatings, align and clean up;
  2. On the new prepared surface, the Penophol is the easiest way to be attached to double-sided construction scotch, foil to the room. Also must also be covered with foil on one side;
  3. Roll strips after rolling are attached to another to each other;
  4. On top of the mounted coating from the foam, a wooden rush crate is harvested. Also the frame can be made from a metal profile. On the frame will subsequently be attached decorative coating - Lining, plasterboard, swing or other building materials. If drywall will be used, then it is plastered after fixing on the wall, glued wallpaper or paint. Also, when weaving the foam plasterboard between it and the wall, leaving the ventilation slot along which the air will circulate and drive out the accumulating moisture.

Penofol, even with its small thickness (much thinner than other insulation), is an almost perfect thermal insulator and noise reducer. The high characteristics of the foam is quite enough to use it without additional warming measures, but if necessary (for example, in the extreme north), it is combined with other types of thermal insulation materials. And the main thing when working with a foam: it is quickly mounted, it is long and reliably performs its functions, and almost does not take place on the wall.

When choosing a heat-insulating material for the inner insulation of the walls of the apartment, decide on the characteristics of the insulation will help preliminary examination of the room for the level of preparedness of the walls to work. On a dry and not sick mold surface, the insulation can be attached immediately, but if there is at least the slightest signs of the humidity of the surface - the wall should be dried and carry out the entire preparatory complex of measures, from applying antiseptic compositions to alignment and re-drying.

Without careful surface preparation, insulation can be not only a useless and expensive event - it will be harmful to influence the microflora in the thickness of the wall, causing first microscopic, and then - all large cracks and destruction. In addition, mold bacteria and increased humidity The room always leads to diseases respiratory tract People living in it.