TEN - fluid electric heater in the form of a metal tube, inside which is a spiral. Designs, varieties set. Heaters are manufactured for large and small industries.

These heaters are massively installed, for example, in electrical boilers and electrocotes, therefore are also produced by well-known manufacturers.

But on any market, you can meet the Tennery are intended for installation in heating radiators. These devices are made more often in Poland, Ukraine, China. They can be equipped with built-in thermal sensors, i.e. Work in semi-automatic mode, tracking the degree of heating.

Based on such electrical heaters, you can easily create heating device do it yourself. What the homemade masters use, constructing the simplest heating and "saving" at the same time, as they think, the fair amounts of money.

But is it profitable to use Tenny?
Where usually, in what situations, these electric water heaters are used? How to install and apply Teni ...

How big is the benefit from the Tan

If available old battery, why not turn it with the help of a tan in the heating system for a small utility room, - chicken coop, workshop, garage ...

There are even myths that Tenami is profitable. But "Dreams are broken about the harsh reality," the electricity is to make more expensive. Since the most expensive energy carrier is used.

It does not matter whether there is a corporate programmable electrocotel, or a barrel with lowered to it is installed on it, - the efficiency of such electric heaters is about 97%. And then we pay across the meter ...

Warm at night

But there is a loophole, a night cheap electricity tariff. Find out exactly the current tariffs and the possibility of connecting the night, you can in the local power grid.

True and night electricity can not be called cheap, but in conjunction with the indicator "comfort", the night heating becomes very attractive for the user.

But the price of heating the heating system with electrical heating can vary significantly.

Heaters in batteries

When in apartments with central heating it is cold, then they are heated additionally with electricity, as well as gas kitchen stove or column.

Here and applied a couple of heavy cast-iron batteries With Tanni. Compared to branded electroconvectors, they have a much greater heat capacity, so they can be turned off for longer and not to follow their work. But the heating is respectively longer.

Such radiators craftsmen are installed mainly in garages where they like to spend time. Or, for example, for heating animals in frosts on small farms.

Equipment systems of heating

It happens that on a dacha, in the garage, etc. There are remains of the former heating system, for example, a pair of batteries with steel pipes. Return the system to life is the easiest way, inserting electrical heaters in it ....

But Teni can create and auxiliary heating in home system Heating. Electric heating perfectly complements solid fuel boiler. Especially at night, with cheap tariff. And here "homemade production" is also in demand.

If in a large enough metal pipe Secure a couple of tenons of 2 kW, it will turn out a 4-kilowatte electric boiler. The nuance is that at night it can be included in the low-power network of 220 V, as other consumers "sleep", except the refrigerator, for example.

Such a "creation", in practice, can be the main heating during the season in a warmed house, if, of course, applies buffer capacity - Heat accumulator.

What power will need

In the integer home heating system, 2-kilodate samples of electric heaters are better.

But in individual radiators of homemade registers, trimming of heating in garages ... To use too powerful, the Tane can not.

Consequently, the power of the Ten should not be greater than the thermal power given to the device at +70 degrees. This is about 75% of the radiator passport.

One section and cast iron and aluminum radiators (500 mm between pipes) has a capacity of 170 W heat transfer at 90 degrees of liquid and 20 degrees of air. At +70 degrees. Heating - one section - 140 W, 7 sections - 1080 W, 10 sections. - 1400 W.
Thus, for the radiator of 7 sections, the power of the TEN should not be more than 1 kW. And for the radiator out of 10 sections - no more than 1.4 kW.

It is more difficult to deal with self-made registers, - their heat transfer is unknown. It remains only to start using the least powerful heaters.

What are the waist for the radiator to choose

Tanes for radiators are made on the basis of a plug (base) with a standard thread diameter of 40 mm. It remains from the radiator to unscrew the bottom stopper, the heater is screwed into its place.

The selection of these heaters for power for radiators was mentioned above. Do not take more powerful devices, in order to avoid emergency situations. No need to overheat the radiator, achieving greater heat transfer.

But these heaters differ in length. For separate standing radiator, without moving fluid, preferably the net is authentic. Then the heating will be more uniform.

In the protocate electrocot, the other selection priority is less hydraulic resistance. Minimize the effect of heaters by successful supply of tubes and configurations of their location for homemade craftsman is not a problem.

The manufacturer, the "Chinese", still, scold the most, the best Tanes are considered local spill - Russian-Ukrainian.

As used

Teni may turn on room thermostat. Then they are controlled at a given air temperature.

But in most cases heaters with built-in temperature relays are used - heating on the temperature of the coolant.

Liquid during heating expands. It is impossible separate radiators, and others closed systems Heating, filling with liquid completely. In the heating systems, an expansion tank is used to compensate for expansion.

In the case of a separate radiator, it suffices to leave at least 10% of the internal volume not filled, - fill the radiator over the upper tube.

Installing Tan Next. The system merges, the radiator cork is twisted, the Ten is screwed. It is commonly used flax with lubrication as a seal (metal-in metal).

The heater is connected to the power grid in accordance with PUE, with the corresponding insulation of contacts.

Oil is not allowed

You can meet the recommendations to fill with oil radiator, - allegedly it turns out an analogue of the "oil heater". Before following such advice, it is recommended to explore the experience of "pyrotechnics", which poured oil to the cardboard, set fire, and then tried to put out.
Oil-filled industrial electrical units (for example, high-voltage oil disconnectors) are operated with special fire safety measures.

If the system is frozen, it is necessary to use non-freezing fluids, for one radiator you can use the same automotive toosol. Fuel fluids are not allowed.

There are other disorders.

Designing with your own hands - profitable?

Independent design of electrical heating devices is not welcome for security reasons.

Much more expedient to purchase ready electric heater For premises, for example, an electroconvector that meets the requirements ... The manufacturer is responsible for its operational qualities.

Economic feasibility in Tanni may arise, as stated when there is a "abandoned" and "free" shell for him.

But security issues are actually much more important than the benefit obtained in this way.
Now they understand it more often, because there are less and less.

Anyone can collect electrocotel with their own hands - by performance characteristics Prefabricated units are little inferior to factory products. With the responsible approach, the caustal assembly boiler may be even more reliable and more than the factory production machine.

This also applies to electric boilers to warm up a private house, known for its efficiency and high performance. Details for the assembly of such equipment are widely available, and the manufacturing process itself can cost cheaper than buying a finished device.

Classification of homemade boilers

There are three varieties of electric boilers. The first option is working on a TEN. They are equipped with a tubular electric heater, which under the action of electricity heats up and transfers the heat of the liquid. The heater is insulated, due to which the coolant is not under voltage.

Second option - induction action. It is equipped with a transformer with winding, and the heating pipe acts as an induction coil. Heating the coolant occurs due to the vortex currents occurring on the winding.

Finally, the third option, the electrode - the liquid is not only the coolant, but also is part of electrical system. Collect the electrode boiler with their own hands is quite simple, but high demands are presented to the electrical safety of this equipment.

Design

In fact, the self-made electric boiler is trimming the pipe with the built-in electropurture. It is very convenient, especially if you make a removable unit: Then care and maintenance of equipment will be significantly simplified.

If you place the unit is not in a pipe, but in a separate case, you can install additional sensors that will automate the operation of the heating system, increase the efficiency and reduce the level of energy consumption. In addition, when you need to replace the boiler to others, it will turn out without disturbing the integrity of the system circuit.

Operating complexity

Disadvantage of anyone electric heater It is the risk of exceeding the limit to connect electrical equipment in a private house. Thus, the cumulative power of all electrical appliances used in the dwelling should not be more than 15 kW.

For the service of a private house of about 100 m2, an aggregate is required with a capacity of at least 10 kW.

Consequently, by connecting the electric boiler with their own hands, on the use of other devices you will assign only 5 kW of energy. To increase the limit of consumption, you need to get a special permission.

To make a homemade electric heating boiler with a tubular electric heater, you will need the next set of materials:

• steel sheet with a thickness of more than 2 mm;
• section steel pipe (length and diameter depends on the productivity of the aggregate);
• three-phase beans (it is not recommended to use heaters with a built-in relay, as they are rapidly wear out).

First out steel sheet It is necessary to cut the future bottom of the boiler. The size of the bottom must match the diameter of the pipe. Then, from the same metal, the flange is required - the ring, whose inner diameter is equal to the outer or inner diameter of the pipe, depending on which method it is planned to be fixed on the housing. The width of the ring is usually 30 mm.

Next, the steel sheet is made with a diameter with a diameter corresponding to the outer diameter of the flange. The lid and flange are connected using 6 bolts, in places of installation of fasteners are done in advance. A few more holes are drilled in the lid - their size must correspond to the size of the planned to the installation of the Tan.

The first to the housing of the boiler must be triggered the bottom, the following - flange. The lid is mounted only after the tubular heaters will be firmly fixed. A sealing gasket from a material resistant to water resistant to water is inserted among thesters and lid.

Between the lid and the flange there is another gasket made of a car chamber. This gasket must be an accurate copy of the flange, including it needs to make holes for the bolts.

Montage of pipes

Before close the boiler with a lid, the nozzles are mounted into its body to connect the pipes of the heating system, having pre-cut the suitable holes. It is important that threads have at the ends of the nozzles: this is required to install input cranes, which will overlap the circulation of the coolant in the circuit if the electric boiler is required to be repaired. The hot fluid removal tube is located in the upper part of the unit, it is desirable to embed it directly into the lid. Chilled coolant is fed by pipe from below.

When the nozzles are mounted, the boiler is fully assembled and connected to the network. Sometimes his design can change: for example, the flange is not only the lid, but also the bottom. The device is universal, and it will be easily adjusted to technical parameters Heating systems at home.

Electric installation work

During electrical work Contacts of all the boiler tans are connected to the block, it connects to it zero wire. Sometimes heating elements immediately closure to this wire without using the pad.

The conductor cross-section of the wires must correspond to the load that the lamps create: then the self-made electric unit will work without failures.

The phase wire passed through the automatic protection is connected to the contact of each heater. The cable cross section is chosen on the basis of the load created by all the included Tanes simultaneously.

All wires must be isolated, special attention It should be done that their bare parts do not come into contact with the metal cover of the boiler.

For the manufacture of induction boiler You will need:

• segment of a plastic pipe with thick walls;
• copper wire with a diameter of 7 mm;
• 15 A. welding inverter

TO plastic pipe Fasten two nozzles, pre-doing the corresponding holes. Its inner space is completely filled with wire trimming of 40-50 mm.

Then the induction coil is created: the wire must be accusing around the pipe, total number turns - about 90. The coil is connected to the inverter. The resulting home-made heating boiler is mounted directly into the pipeline, cutting the pipe section.

Assembling the electrode boiler

Just make the electrode heater. To do this, the wizard will be needed:

• iron tube with a diameter of 57 mm with thick walls;
• iron sheet with a thickness of more than 2 mm;
• internal electrode with a diameter of 25 mm;
• packages from paronite or rubber and connecting terminals.

As in the previous cases, you need to start with the attachment of pipes for pipes to the future boiler housing. From one end, the nozzles are welded to the aggregate, from the other - make threads.

Making an electrode boiler with their own hands, a hole for the plug is drilled in the housing. The electrode is attached to the latter, it is installed inside the boiler. At the final stage, the homemade body is brewed by setting the lid-cut from the iron sheet and the bottom.

After cleaning welded seams It is required to check them on permeability. For this, the welding location is covered with soap foam, and inside the housing with the air press pressure is injected. Where bubbles appeared, the boiler will give to flow. When all identified malfunctions are eliminated, you can handle the enameled paint housing.

The boiler will work regularly if the water in the home heating system contains soda. The latter is added to increase the current strength: calculate this indicator, separating the power of the unit by 220.

Production of objects beneficial in the farm, tools and electrical appliances are not always connected with the desire to save. The spirit of invention lives in almost every one who at least once held in his hands wrench or screwdriver. For those who are not able to throw a gram of copper wire and even an old unnecessary blade from a razor to the garbage, it will be useful to find out how from such well-made items you can make a healthy boiler.

Boiler with your own hands can be made different waysbut not all options self-assembly this device Allow to use it for a long time. The article describes the main, time-tested options. independent manufacture Boiler.

How to make a boiler with your own hands - the best of the proven ways

Most often in handicraft conditions, boilers are made of:

• Shaving blade. Satellite blades.
• Nails.
• Tan for the kettle.

TEN from the old kettle

TEN from the old kettle

It can also be made at home. Comprehensive water heating devices from nichrome wirewhich is installed on a ceramic insulator.

The main task that must be performed in the independent design of heating elements is minimizing the possibility of short circuit and lesion electric shock. When using low-voltage self-made electrical impact products, it is almost necessary to fear, but devices running 220 V network can cause accidents and fire.

Boiler from blade

Make a boiler from razor blades is absolutely not difficult. To perform work it is necessary to prepare the following components:

• 2 "satellite" type blades.
• 2 matches.
• Two-housing wire with a fork.
• Threads.

Electric boiler diagram from blades

The process of assembling the homemade boiler looks like this:

• Each blade is tied with copper custody of the electrical wire.
• 2 matches are stacked between the blades, which will serve as stripping for short-circuit protection.
• Blades threads are primed up to matches in such a way as to eliminate the free movement of metal parts.

Homemade water treatment device assembly

The homemade boiler from the blades is fully prepared for use!

Test of homemade device

Now it remains only to choose a reservoir, in which water will be boiled. The container that will be used with a boiler of such a design should not be made of conductive material. You should also be extremely careful when you turn on and disconnect the device. Before switching on homemade electrical appliance In the network of 220 V, it is necessary to initially lower the device into water. During water heating, it is strictly forbidden to touch electrical device or water tanks.

In addition to the necessary security measures, it is also necessary to remember that water heating is thus only possible if there are conductive metal salts in it. Distilled water with a boiler from the blades will not be heated, due to the lack of a conductive medium between two metal planes.

In addition, application electrolytic fashion Water heating negatively affects its taste, so this option Heating is most suitable for technical fluids.

Boiler from Tan

Make a boiler at home from Tan is not more difficult than when using razor blades. This option of the self-made device when proper manufacture It is safer.

TEN is not difficult to "extract" from, the fault of which is not related to the heating element.

In addition to the availability of a working air, it will also be necessary to prepare a two-core wire with a fork, which can also be borrowed from a faulty kettle. Also for fastening the wires to Tan it is recommended to purchase terminal blocksThe use of which will be greatly simplified and accelerated the process of independent manufacture of the device. In this case, the assembly process is carried out in such a sequence:

• The ends of the wire are cleaned of isolation using a knife or special device.
• The wires are triggered in the terminals and are then fixed on the Tsen's outputs with built-in screws.
• Using a multimeter resistance is checked heating element, as well as a possible leakage on the body of the product.

Water heating device from a tear from the kettle

With successful diagnostics homemade device It can be successfully competing with factory products, and the quality of the main wire connection with the Tan can even be fulfilled better than the store household appliances. The absence of the soldered compounds will allow you to last this adaptation much longer, but if there is no terminal, then the above-described version of the manufacturer of the boiler can be made by soldering wires to the heating element contacts.

This version of the homemade boiler can be used without any restrictions. The quality of boiled water prepared in this way allows you to brew tea, coffee or any other drinks without losing taste.

From nails

The electrical appliance from the nails is the variation of the boiler from the blades, but with a more "civilized" execution. For the manufacture of this hot water device, it is necessary to cook:

• 6 Nails 80 mm.
• Two-housing copper wire with a fork.
• Electrode and drill 3 mm.
• Section wooden board 100x100 mm, a thickness of at least 25 mm.

Nails for homemade water

The process of manufacturing a boiler from nails is carried out in such a sequence:

• In the middle of the wooden plate is made 6 holes with a diameter of 3 mm with a distance between them 3-5 mm.
• In each hole in the wooden plate, a steel nail is installed.
• From the cable with a fork, each contact is connected to 3 nails.
• The wooden plate is installed above the capacity and turns on in the 220 volt network.

When making these actions, it is necessary to strictly monitor that the wires can be pressed as close as possible to metal surface Nails. To implement a reliable contact of wires with electrodes, it is recommended to start 1/3 copper wires in each hole, before installing nails in a wooden plate. If all actions were made correctly, then when checking resistance between contacts plug The multimeter should show the zero value.

Use this water heating device in such a sequence:

1. In a non-metallic mug, pour water that should not be distilled.
2. Set on a mug wooden plate with electrodes down.
3. Include a device to network 220 V.
4. After the liquid boils, the homemade boiler should be disconnected from electricity.

As in the case of using the product from the razor blades, the quality of the puffed fluid leaves much to be desired, so this method Cooking boiling water is also better to use for technical needs.

The most powerful homemade boiler

Nichrome spiral

In order to boil a large amount of water, you can make a powerful portable device from the remedies. For the manufacture of the instrument, the following details will be needed:

1. Nichrome spiral with a wire diameter of at least 1 mm.
2. Industrial fuse series Mon 2.
3. Two-housing cable from the wire with a cross section of at least 4 mm 2.
4. Screwdriver and screws on a tree of 20 mm.
5. Collapsible plug.

PN-2 fuse

Making a powerful water heating device is carried out in such a sequence.

1. PN-2 fuse is disassembled to extract the ceramic body of the product.
2. 8 self-tapping screws that were formed during the disassembly of the device are screwed into the holes in the body of the ceramic insulator.
3. The end of the nichrome spiral is cling to one of the 8 screws of the screws.
4. Then inside the housing of the electrical insulator, the helix is \u200b\u200bdyed to the opposite end of the circular insulator and is repeatedly fixed around the screw.
5. The spiral unfolds in the opposite direction, but is already fixed to another screw screwed into the insulator.
6. In the same way, the spiral and self-tapping screws are connected at 5 points, after which the stripped copper wires and the self-tapping screws are connected to the first screw and the self-tapping screws into a ceramic insulator. Given the significant power of such a homemade boiler, the cross section of the connected copper wire There must be at least 4 mm 2. On the other end of the wire is carried out installation of a plug.

Power check homemade water heater

The operation of the boiler can be carried out only in a limbo. The heating element must be completely omitted into the water and should not touch the walls and the bottom of the tank. When using homemade, it is strictly forbidden to touch the tank and the body of the device during water heating.

Conclusion

Boiler from the primary means can be made with their own hands without financial costs. Everything without exception, self-made products should be operated in such a way that there is no contact of the human body with a heated liquid or with an uninsulated part of the current-carrying elements. It is forbidden to leave a boiler made by your own hands, unattended, as well as in places where children access is possible to enabled the device.

Want to save a few thousand rubles? And the truth is when this skillful man refused such an opportunity. In this case, it will be about the manufacture of elementary flowing water heater. Surely in the summer, many suffer due to lack of hot water in the country and buy ready product Finance does not allow. Or just a sorry for money. If you have the necessary skills and smelting, then we suggest you try yourself as a local Kulibin.

How the flowing water heater is arranged

Having a flowing water heater, in the country, you can even take a light shower

Of course, we will not tell the most detailed about the design of the equipment, since its internal device was considered in another.

However, before starting to work, refreshing the basic design elements in memory.

As you know, the main detail of the "drock" is TEN. It is a spiral (or a straight tube), which is placed in a hermetic copper flask. Next, this flask is placed in the device body and heats the water flowing through it. The incoming liquid heats up instantly and follows from the crane of the water intake point already warm.

Tenh of a flow water heater: buy or make

TEN flowing water heater

As you already understood the most important task over which you have to break your head - where to take the heating element for our future "drock". We have 2 options:

1. Go to the store and buy a suitable TEN - It will cost you rubles at 500-700. This option, of course, is simpler and suitable for people who do not want to break their heads over how to pour a balloon with an element.

Before buying a TEN, decide on its permissible power, because the wiring in the apartment / house may not withstand, if you fame and buy too powerful item. Maximum on which it is designed ordinary apartment - 5 kW, and "Khrushchev" and is less (3-4 kW).

1. Make a TEN alone. Of course, it will cost you cheaper, because you will not spend money for the purchase for money. However, this method will require you to have the following equipment and materials:

• Gas-burner
• Device for soldering copper pipes
• Copper tubes
• Nichrome wire
• Heat resistant
• Heat-resistant glue

Step 1. Tighten the copper tube into the spiral. Ideally, the spiral should have 4 turns. Choose any coal form convenient for you - a circle or square. If in the future it will be more convenient to work with a square, then you choose it. It does not affect the operation of the device, and it will not work more handy.

Place the coils are not close to each other, but at a distance.

Step 2.. Now let's start the nichrome wire to wind up the copper tube. It is necessary to wink tightly so that nichrome's turns touch each other. Tightly wounded turns will be kept firmly, however, for safety and more reliable fixation, we advise the tips of the spiral to consolidate with special heat-resistant glue. This is used in the manufacture of furnaces.

Step 3.. Best will be if the spiral you wrap the heat-resistant cloth. If you failed to get this material, then nothing terrible. Then it will be necessary to just follow, so that no combustible substances fall on the spiral itself. We are confident, it will not be difficult at careful handling.

Step 4.. Each of the spirals will save on a parallel scheme. This will make it possible to obtain greater power of the device than in a sequential scheme.

Step 5.. If you wish, you can put the TEN into a hermetic flask, brewing it with a burner, if there is a hand.

Calculation of Tan water heater

After describing the general order of action, we will analyze how much the meters of the wire of the north and copper tube we will need, and we will also learn the approximate diameter of the Tan's turns.

So, first will understand with the calculation of the nichrome wire. Suppose, in the store or by acquaintance you got the wire of this material 1 mm in diameter.

At first, we remember that in order to take a shower using our newly new water heater, its power should be at least 5 kW.

P \u003d i * u; I \u003d p / u \u003d 5000 W / 220V \u003d 23 BUT.

Such should be the power of the current. Of course, the usual wiring in the apartment is unlikely to endure, even if you have copper wires. Therefore, in advance, we occupy a separate line for the normal operation of the "drock".

Resistance is calculated according to the following formula:

R \u003d p * L / S, where

P - resistivity;

R - electrical resistance nichrome;

S is the cross-sectional area.

Also recall another basic formula, where R \u003d u / i

We equate both parts and get:

By default, we know that the specific resistance of the nichrome is 1.1 Ohm * sq.m. / m.

We also calculate the cross-sectional area: S \u003d πr 2 \u003d 3.14 * 0.5 2 \u003d 0.8 sq.m.

Since the water heater we plan to use in household conditions,

220/23 \u003d 1.1 * L / 0.8

L \u003d 8.8 / 1,4 \u003d 6.2 m. - The desired total length of the wire.

It turns out that by sharing the entire wire into 3 parts, we will have about 6.2 / 3 \u003d 2 meters of nichrome wire for each segment.

Calculation of the length of the copper tube

Wire winding on a copper tube

In my calculations, we will proceed from the fact that copper tube It has 10 mm in diameter with a wall thickness of 1 mm.

First, calculate the length of the circumference of one turn. It will be l \u003d 2πr \u003d 2 * 3,14 * 5 \u003d 31.4 mm.

Now we divide the length of one segment of the wire to the resulting value: 2000 mm / 31.4 cm \u003d 64 is the number of turns that closely can be coated on the copper tube.

And since the diameter of the wire is 1mm, that is, it is in fact this is a winding step, the length of the wire in the wound state will be 64 * 1mm \u003d 64 mm. Thus, two meter wires with a dense wound on a copper tube 1 cm in diameter takes only 6.4 cm. For loyalty, rounded up to 7 cm.

We led an approximate calculation scheme for one wire, however maximum efficiency We have 3 of them, and we agreed to appreciate them in parallel, and not consistently. This means that the distance between the top of the first winched wire should be 2 mm.

It turns out that, wound the first wire with a step in 2mm, in parallel to her closely, we begin to wink and second. Similarly, we wind up the 3rd: close to 2nd.

In fact, it turns out that all three wire begin in one place, however, with a shift of 1 mm.

Thus, it turns out that the length of the copper tube must be 7cm * 3 \u003d 21 cm.

During the twist of the copper tube to the spiral, it can flatten in the field of bending, which will negatively affect its efficiency, and indeed performance. Therefore, for convenience, we advise you to stuff the tube with sand and close it on both ends of the plugs (rubber inserts or cut into a spherical / tumbled threads and screw inside the self-tapping screw).

Production of a flow water heater

So, we have in stock TEN (purchased or homemade - at your discretion). Now it remains to dry up the further design of the flow water heater.

We will need bucket (saucepan), drill-screwdelt, rubber strips, fitting (Fitting on ½ or ¾ "), ball valve. In the bottom we spend several holes for the best fixation of the Tan. For this, we will also use rubber gaskets that should be placed inside the tank.

Outside, the heating element is attached nuts, bolts.

The simplicity of construction is that cold water Must be immediately served in the Spiral of the Ten. Therefore, in the bottom of the tank, we do the holes for the tube, connect the drain fitting or fitting. Its size depends on the size of the water supply system of the pipe.

You already can easily connect aquatic riser to this fitting. At the outlet of the pipe we advise you to install a drain crane. In the future, it will be very convenient to connect the shower nozzle, for example.

Internal organization Tan

Temperature regulator We also need. His role can play any simplest thermostat. You can take it from any broken electric kettle. In the kettle, the thermostat is designed together with the heating spiral. We do not need the heating element, you throw it, and its part in the form of a thermostat and the power button just us is needed.

It is mounted next to the age, which allows to determine the current water temperature as accurately as possible. And the button for its control will be easily located on the surface of the housing.

As a result, we will have a small cumulative-flowing water heater, which 15 liters of water heats up almost instantly.

Heat insulation case It will not be superfluous. It will not only help keep the heat of hot water, but also will protect you from random burn. As an external case, it is possible to use a rarative container in which this tank can get. Or you can build a peculiar pallet from the edges, where the tank is placed. At the same time put the tank better on wooden planks, and all empties fill mounting foam or eco-art.

Security Rules when using homemade water heater

Remember that the device is built with your own hands is not less dangerous to use, because it has a minimum of protection against overheating, bumping and lesion to the current. Therefore, you need to secure yourself as much as possible.

Be sure to ground your water heater! Since such products are most often needed at dachas, then the boiler ground is best for the land. To do this, you will need an iron frame: Skip it in the garden. From her in the house, let the steel tape goes.

The simplest design has no protective sensors that prevent overheating. Therefore, when using a homemade water heater, be the most accurate and follow the water level yourself!

The second TEN burned over the year in the home water heater brought to the idea of \u200b\u200bfinding reasons frequent breakdowns. After draining the water and dismantling the electrical pump, unscrew the nuts of the presser flange. With difficulty pulled the tagged Block Tan. After cleaning copper tubes heating spirals discovered a longitudinal crack on the age low power. Checked the main one - works. It was also a year ago: a lot of scale, a torn copper tube and a trip to the store for a new suitable.

The visible root cause is rigid water from the well. Installation last year filter softener from salts of calcium did not help. The presence of a magnesium electrode also did not increase the service life.

The second reason is poor quality spirals of electric heaters. After the survey of the neighbors and acquaintances, it turned out that replaceable fan from the manufacturer of the most common water heaters with us seems to be specifically made for quick breakdowns, because if the factory works 3 years, then after replacement - only 6-8 months. I suggested that a too close arrangement of two spirals, two thermal sensors and a magnesium electrode accelerates overheating and failure.

The third and main reason - in the design of water heaters did not take into account the domestic realities. Let foreign manufacturers do not take offense: imported water heaters are 90% not suitable for rigid mineralized water of the Russian depth. Apparently, Mendeleev came up with a table chemical elementsExploring drinking water in Tobolsk.

When examining the inner 30-liter tank, I found that it consists of two cylindrical tanks of 15 liters, connected by the welded 20-mm tubes.

From the first tank through the mounting hole of the Tan, I managed to wash the lumps of scale. And in the second half, everything remains. I had to pour four packs citric acid And, stirring, waiting for the complete dissolution of the accumulated stalactitis. Give 1 200 rubles for a new typical TEN in the conditions of the economic crisis and fall wages Hand did not rose. Therefore, there was a free way of recovery - I just cut the tube of the burnt spiral and drowned the resulting holes with bronze bolts with rubber gaskets.

As a result, the water heating device is already working. For a 30-liter accumulative electrottan, 1.5 kW is quite enough. This is how the purpose of the repair is achieved with a positive economic effect.

And for myself wrote a plan for prophylactic acid flushing, posted the mode of use hot water with shutdown at night and ... put a pig-piggy bank clean water From the city network.

Repair of heating lamp by hand - work

1. We dismantle the heating element. The reason for the failure is visible to the naked eye: a powerful layer of scale caused overheating of the element.

2. After cleaning it became clear that the small heating element burned down, and the more powerful was not injured.

3. It was necessary to cut off the burned element and drown out the remaining holes after it with bronze bolts.

4. Now there is more free space between the heating element and thermal sensors - and the scale will not accumulate between them.

5. Bronze bolts with rubber gaskets are installed as the plugs at the site of the heating element.

6. Ten is ready to work again. For a 30 liter tank, it is enough of its power of 1.5 kW.

How do you repair a tan water heater to repair - Photo

Water heater repair with your own hands - replacement cord

When my colleague moved, someone cut off the power wire from almost new flow heater water. There are suspicions that this is the work of her former husband. But whoever did it, the heater will not turn on in the outlet. Must be fixed.

In the workshop for the installation of a new wire, only 2000 rubles were asked. But the sum of my colleague seemed overestimated. For repair I took. Everything you need found on the nearest radio shop. After a thorough study of the insides of the heater, it turned out that the screws fixing the wire at the exit of the housing have a cunning head. Simple dumplings do not twist them - you need a "horned" bit. This was found in the stall in which I bought a wire. You can start repair.

That's what I needed for repair.

The heater housing opens easily, the lid is attached on two plastic tags.

From the housing braided here such trim. I must say, he was very useful for me. "Sculpting" from him a piece, I went to choose a new wire. Very convenient when you have a sample: I will definitely not be mistaken when buying!

Before mounting a new wire, the wiring is better to photograph, for example, on a smartphone, then not to confuse where to connect which wire.

We unscrew the screws in the connecting block to remove the string of the old wire.

We take out the ends.

We unscrew the screws that fix the wire at the output.

Remove the old wire.

With the help of an ordinary stationery knife, we clean the ends of the new wire.

Insert the stripped wires into the block and fix them, spinning the screws.

We insert a new wire and fix it at the output.

The new wire is connected.

We wear the housing on the wire.

We clean the ends of the wire.

Connect wires.

To do this, unscrew and spin three screws. Also captivate the wire with a two screws.

Now the case sat down with a tension - the wire from the plug will not be minted.

The wire is connected - you can install the heater on its place.