The device of floors in the bath process is very important and has its own principal features. The non-compliance of which will lead to the construction of cold gender and its rapid rot. Incorrectly made floor and stock used water under it can cause unpleasant odors in the bath.

Everyone wants to comfortably and with benefit to spend time in a bath, in which the floor is right and exactly arranged, where it is not necessary to step barefoot on dirty puddles or jump off the grille on the grid.

You can not imagine a bath without water procedures. And where there is water, there must be a solution to the question of its removal or plum. Thanks to which the floor will extend its operation for a long time.

For the manufacture of floors in the bath is used everywhere basically wood and concrete. And how to make it yourself using simple materialsWe will consider in different versions.

And in the pre-tribbon (relaxation room or locker room), and in the washing and parioms, the floors should be warm. Gradually, step bypass will consider the construction of floors in best options In these premises and in this article.

Step-by-step guide when installing gender in the bath

Before proceeding with the flooring device in the bath, you need to decide, and what floor to choose and how to mount it: suspended right by lags or put on a soil with insulation. And the soil inside the bath is mine: sandy and dry or clay and more often wet. And where water will merge, I need to help find water outlet from the bath or it will be stamped and gradually dry yourself. Here you need an objective approach and the same answer.

In general, the floors in the bath are divided: on:

• Wooden running
• Do not flow wooden
• Concrete with insulation and covered top tiles

All other floors are varieties and modifications to the above. Consider the device of these floors separately, as well as in the combined version, it all depends on their purpose and operating conditions.

The device of the floor in the rest room is not flowing wooden.

Very often a rest room in the bath combines the concept of changing room and the pre-banker. In this room inside is always dry operation, as in a residential building. For laying lag, it is necessary to lay the columns of 400 x 400 mm of reinforced concrete and brick. The upper plane of the support columns should be on the same level with the upper plane of the belt basement. If necessary, make alignment.

Consider the not flowing wooden floor as a suspended option. In the picture, we see a lining bar, it is also called the beam and lags are mounted on it. You can start mounting and without beams, right by lags.

On the waterproofing of the support columns and the edges of the foundation to lay lags 150 x 150 mm, impregnated antiseptic. To the lower edges of the lag to nail the skull bars of 50 x 50 mm and to put the draft flooring from edged board, 25-30 mm thick. Black flooring boards, too, deceive with an antiseptic. Give dry.

On the draft flooring to lay with on a chillet in 200 mm parchment or unrefined paper, if the insulation mineral wool or rubberoid, if the insulation is pouring a grainzit of different fractions in size.

Then, on top of the lags, a clean floor of a fender with a quarter is filling. Boards are racified according to the standard rules. Usually floorboards are made of coniferous wood, as it costs cheaper than larch.

On the perimeter of the board, the board should not reach the walls by 2 cm. Between the insulation and the top board there should be a distance of 15 cm for ventilation and in the walls of the foundation should be produced.

How to make the floor in the washing department and the steam room?

About the device of floors in these two branches, the most important, for which the bath is built, you have to talk and show a lot and more detail. The floors in these rooms can be: wooden flowing and not flowing or concrete with insulation and covered top tiles.

Currently, the thought does not stand still and with its development also appear new proposals. The author of the following idea combined with one common volumetric underground washing and a steam room. In both rooms, the wooden floors are mounted. Consider their device.

1. Flowing floors in the bath:

The flowing or pouring floor in the Russian baths was always. That's just where to leave water under the floor - this important question is solved now in different ways, depending on constructive decisions and smart approach. Let's say right away - in the steam room and in the car wash, the flowing wooden floor with slits of 5 - 6 mm is built. In the underground between the two these rooms there should be no ribbon foundation, but the column is allowed.

When the boiler is mocking the cooling and warm air through underground. Air moves through open door and through a special window in interior wall. Bathrooms are well warmed, the floor becomes warm and you can bathe and wash, which means pouring water. We look at the video about the flow of the effluent beyond the battery.

Schemes for the output from the bathhouse there are different and then they will be considered for comparison and selection.

The basis for the flowing wooden floor is an arranged ceramzito concrete screed And it is consistently done like this:

• On the base of the soil of the paril and the washing departments, it is poured, aligned and the layer of sand is aligned, then the crushed stone layer. A total thickness of 250 mm;
• It covers this layer Tolstoy polyethylene film In 3 layers with a lift around the perimeter on the walls. The edges of each layer are glued with frost-resistant scotch. This layer serves as waterproofing.
• Lay down metal grid With cells 80 - 100 mm.
• With a bias towards drappa for stocks, guides are mounted. Lighthouses are fixed by slides. The bias is complied with equal 3 cm on 1 m guides.
• The ceramzite concrete is stacked between the guides and is resurrected by the rule with the observance of the slope.
• Make a grout out cement mortar And it's good to block all the irregularities.

Ceramzit is selected as insulation. He possesses near positive qualities - It is environmentally friendly pure Material, obtained at accelerated firing of low-melting clays. He has high performance and reduces heat loss by 50 - 75%. Ceramzite gravel compared to others popular insulation inexpensive.

It is atmospheric, fireproof, does not smell, does not highlight the harmful components in the fire. Concrete prepared with the use of ceramisitis is much easier than from rubble. Fractions are used different from 5 to 30 mm.

For reliable grasp, the cement M400-M500 brand is used. Specialists advise add a plasticizer. The proportional composition for the preparation of the mixture: 2 parts of the clay, 1 part of the water, 1 part of the cement, 3 parts of the sand.

It is not difficult to knead the composition. It is necessary to prepare a building mixer and a metal container large sizes. And you can cook and concrete mixer.

From the practice advised clamzite to dunk in water, so as not to pop up. In the process of mixing, the ceramzitobeton acquires the characteristic grey colour. It is necessary to pour at the place immediately after the kneading. The solution is poured between the beacons from the angle of the room to the funnel. Complete drying of the ceramzite concrete occurs in a month. You can find out availability by installing glass cans Up the bottom, she should not worry.

This is done by the flowing wooden floor with a base of a ceramzite concrete. At the location of the drain, make a shield or a cover for access to funnel and cleaning it from garbage and broom leaves.

2. Concrete floor with insulation and coated tile.

In this embodiment, there is between the washing room and the parillery ribbon foundation. Therefore, each room should have its own drain.

As for the washing room and for the steam room, this floor is done and it is well exploited. It is done just as the base of the ceramzitobetone, only to increase the heat engineering indicators in addition to the metal grid, dry clay and increase the thickness of the ceramzite concrete layer.

Then in conventional method Put ceramic tiles with grouting seams and with a slope in the direction of the drain. Additionally make a border from tiles on the walls around the perimeter.

Top tile on the floor are put wooden shields, strong and reliably made. Still, the floor from the tile slides.

Any gender ends with a drain and best if it is thought out before the construction of the foundation to lay the rigid boxes from the board or metal pipes As a case in the body of the foundation. And, objectively arguing about where you have a well well, outside the foundation, with a location of plum inside, cut the trenches and put the sewer pipes PVC with the slope. A bias to make at least 3 cm per 1 m pipe.

Put special frost-resistant sewer pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, because durable pipes, and comfortable conditions Over the years I want more - it means to reserve. Maybe in the future you will make a toilet and washing for dishes in the recreation room or install a shower cabin with an electric water heater and spend cold water supply on the pipes for the summer period.

Sewer pipes in the trench must be insulated with the finished foamed polyethylene "EnergoFlex". It is for sale different lengths and different diameter With a cut along the pipe, so it just dresses on it and seams stuck. Trenches with pipes can be covered with sand, clamzit, then the earth.

With the arrangement of plots with ladder, the washing room is connected pVC pipe With a parillery and further, the settlements go beyond the walls of the bath in the drainage well. there is good video about this theme.

Should consider such life situationWhen you did during the arrangement of the plum, as described above in the article, but for incomprehensible reasons, the smell from the outer well penetrates the bath and you feel it. Do not be upset, because there is a constructive possibility to avoid this. This will help a special device in a damp. Watch carefully pictures with a ladder.

Understand the device of this ladder, which is installed in the drain hole is not at all difficult. In the second color picture, it can be seen how bubbles with an air from the outer well with the smell are trying to penetrate inside the bath, but the water shutter impedes them. A red cap is dressed on top and it seems to float in drain water.

If water in the ladder falls from time to time and there is a possibility of drying the hydraulic assembly and, accordingly, the appearance unpleasant odors From the sewage, it is used to eliminate this problem with "Primus" siphon. He is in front of you.

If there is water in it, the siphon works like an ordinary siphon, and when evaporation of the hydraulic circuit breaker, the drain hole is overlapped with the movable upper part of the siphon (cap).

Usually in the baths set ladders with vertical release and non-freezing siphon of the brand HL310N.2

3. Not flowing wooden floors

There are no wooden floors in the washing room and in the steam room itself can be done, but more difficult than previous options. Here is the principle of arranging this floor.

The picture shows two types of non-torrential flooring devices: with plums in the center of the room and with a drain closer to another opposite wall.

The bias of the floor is created by arranging Wood in the body of the lag. The not flowing floor is made of two layers of flooring: rough and cleaned. The boards must be coniferous rocks, and the pistol floor is made from better boards, without bitch and gaps.

The direction of the boards is made towards the drain. The drain itself is mounted in different ways, more often from galvanized sheet. And then, who can see how: can be in the pit, and then in the pipe and well, but you can make a ladder with a "dry" siphon and also join the pipe with a well on the street. Access to the ladder must be for cleaning and repair.

In the picture on the left you can see the presence of all layers of non-torrential gender. This floor is considered mounted, wooden and warm. It is also done, but specialists are invited more often for its installation.

If you risze on the installation of such a floor - consult a specialist, it will not be superfluous, but will give only confidence in your own forces.

Water on the drain chute can be assigned to the pit, which is made from reinforced concrete. From the pit sewage pipe Go to the outer well.

After bath procedures, the floors in the bath should dry in order to force their operational abilities for a long time. For this, someone sweeps the bath. But here is the device ventilation box The wall of the bath with the conclusion on the attic, does not prevent the floor and will give the opportunity to "breathe."

Between the upper clean floor and the upper waterproofing, which lies on the insulation, there must be an air gap to 150 mm.

The galvanized sheet is simply stuck in the body of the log and fixes with the bottom on the floor.

And so on the entire perimeter of the bathroom.

The ventilation box is made from the board tight or from the usual galvanized thick sheet.

I hope the article for you was useful. Build yourself and strive to improve your living conditions. Good luck!

Under these floors, they imply such a design in which water flows freely into the slots between the boards and absorbs into the ground under the bath.

Advantages of leaking floors

What are the advantages of flowing floors:

• in financial terms, the device of such floors is much cheaper,
• low level of labor intensity of their device.

However, the flowing floors, unlike not flowing, are cold. Purchase floors are advisable to create in southern regions Russian Federation and the CIS.

The design of non-flowing floors

The design of the non-flowing floors implies the presence of a special hole to which water flows through the floor. From the hole water enters the waterborg and flows over the water pipe outside the bath. These floors have the so-called "black" floor. Currently, the device does not occur more common, rather than the device of the flowing floors.

Do not flow the floors warm, but their device needs more laboriousness (it is necessary to perform a bias, "black" floor, drainage and dr.)

Preparation of the founding of wooden floors

For the wooden floor, it is necessary to prepare a base. Initially, sex larch array or pine larch. Already on them will be attached to the boards (they are better to choose from the same wood as lags).

It is necessary that the floors in the bath are located under a slope - it will provide stock of the waste water in the right direction. For this purpose, the lags are stacked not at the same level, but with a drop, thanks to which the angle of inclination will be created.

Note: When the device undergoing floors, the slope is not necessary.

Lags are stacked at the very small distance from the wall to the wall. If the walls of the bath is equilateral (for example, 4 m x 4 m), then the lags are laid out without taking into account the distance between the walls, the main thing is that they follow the water flow across the water.

So that the lags have sufficient stiffness and subsequently did not bete under the influence of loads, the center of each of them creates support chairs. Such support chairs can be made from concrete (monolith), bricks or wood.

When the support chairs are made of wood or brick, then they need to make a reference reinforced concrete site (its thickness should exceed 20 cm). On each side of the support, the platform should perform 5 cm.

If the foundation in the bath is a tape, the top of the top of the support should coincide with the level of the foundation.

If the foundation is columnar, and at the same time the ends of the lag are based on the bars of the mortgage crown, then the level of the top of the support should coincide with the level of the topping bar.

Preparation of the surface of the soil in the underground

After installing the supports, you can begin the preparation of the underground, i.e. Surface surface underground.

Suppose the floors in the bath must be flowing and the ground is sandy (that is, it uses water well). Then it is necessary to perform a filling from a crushed stone with a thickness of about 25 cm. Water, staining through the slots in the floor, easy to pass through crushed stone and absorbed into the sand. In this case, the crushed stone will perform the filter function, so that the surface of the soil in the underground will not be labeled, and the humidity will be moderate. Thus, underground will be pretty comfortable.

Well, if the ground under the bath does not absorb water, then it is necessary to make a tray for a water stack inside the catchment pit. From the pit water will go beyond the bath. To perform a tray under the flowing floors, create a castle of clay, equipped with a bias to the pit. The lock can also be made of concrete, but in order to avoid extra money costs, it is quite possible to do and the clay castle.

If we are talking about not flowing bass floors, then the surface of the underground is recommended to insulate the clay. At the same time, it is necessary to pay attention to that there was a distance of 15 cm between the lags and the layer - this space will allow ventilation underground.

In the room washing near the wall, it is necessary to create a veil, the tamper of its walls, consolidating their clay. From the pit out of the pit output - on it water will flow beyond the battery. It is necessary that the diameter of the pipe was at least 15 cm.

Laying Lag.

For not flowing floors, lag laying starts from the walls to the pit. The most extreme lags have relatively different lags of the highest point. Wide in extreme lags do not perform. In the next lags, there are no words with a small force (about 2 mm - 3 mm).

The same word is performed in the lag where it comes into contact with the support (the size of the word is equal to the width of the support). The gender of the floor should be 10 degrees. If we are talking about the flowing floors, then the Lag laying can be carried out without a slope and from any of the walls.

Brux for lag first need to be selected according to the size of the bath. In this case, it is necessary to take into account that the lags from two ends did not reach the walls of approximately 3 cm - 4 cm. This gap will allow ventilation between lags and bath walls. Lags can be laid on support poles and the mortgage bar only through waterproofing (rubberoid, pergamine, etc.). In addition, each lag must be previously processed by an antiseptic.

Consider the fact that the lag near the foundation should be located at its edges at a distance of about 12 cm from each edge.

After laying, the lag begin to fit the floorboards. Also need to bring the foundation of the furnace to the level of flooring. To this end, it is recommended to put a furnace foundation from the burned red brick on the platform in advance.

Flooring Pole

For flooring of the flowing floor, unedged boards are used, which must be pre-stamped. It is very important that the ends of the boards have a smooth surface. The first thing the boards are cut into the size of the bath (considering that it is necessary to leave the ventilation gap between the walls and boards). Flooring can be started from any of the walls placed parallel to laying boards.

After the boards are cut, proceed to laying the first board. At the same time, it is retreating from the wall of about two centimeters and nails the board with nails (for example, the thickness of the board is 40 mm, then it will be necessary for nails with a length of at least 80 mm). Nails must be shot down at an angle of about 40 degrees from the middle of the board. Each lag board is fixed with two or more nails.

When you give up the first board, lay the following. At the same time, leave the gap between the boards of 3 cm - 4 cm. For convenience of laying as a template of gaps, you can use the cutting of the Fiberboard sheet.

Note: In the premises of the pre-banner, the floor can be kept without gaps.

When the floors are on the floor, the boards are treated protective composition. You should not paint them - they will then sleep better.

Flooring not flowing floors

For non-flowing flooring, tipped boards of coniferous woods are used. Please note that the boards should be put into a groove inside the bath.

Before starting the flooring, it is required to perform "black" floor. To this end, from the bottom along the edges of the lag attach the bars with a cross section of 50 mm x 50 mm. Between the lags on these bars, the "black" floor is placed. For this use:

• trimming boards
• unedged board,
• the board of the third or second grade,
• gorny.

After the flooring of the "black" floor, the layer of waterproofing is fond on top:

• parchment,
• ruberoid
• waterproofing film.

Then lay the layer of insulation. For this, the clamzit is well suited - it is poured between lags.

Then from above again make waterproofing.

And here, "Chernovaya" the floor is fully ready, you can start the flooring of the pinched flooring boards. Boards in the room paired and washing can not be fixed with nails. Thanks to this, you can easily remove the boards and dry them. Fasten such floors along the edges by means of a bar of 20 mm x 30 mm. Bruks are fixed on lags with screws. When the floor is needed to remove, the bars are very easily dismantled.

In the room washing (in the corners) during flooring, it is necessary to leave the holes in which the pipes will be installed (asbestos-cement or galvanized steel, or from PVC). The diameter of the pipes can be from 50 mm to 100 mm. So you arrange good ventilation indoors.

The floor in a bath from the boards is considered a classic option for the arrangement of the Russian bath. Despite the tendency of wood to rot when high humidity, Other benefits of the material outweigh the negative side, and the use of wooden flooring remains the most common construction technology. All disadvantages of wood can be eliminated if you provide the right approach To the selection of wood breed and comply with the basic principles of protection of it from aggressive impacts.

Features of the problem

As you know, the Russian sauna consists of several model premises: Steam room, washing, pre-banker, recreation room, which have their own specific conditions. The most aggressive environment is present in the steam room. It is provided here high humidity (up to 60-65%) with a water vapor heated to a temperature of 55-70 degrees. At the bottom at the floor level, the temperature is somewhat declined (up to 45-50 degrees), but the heated water and the steam condensate appears. This should add mechanical loads when moving the participants in the bath procedure.

In the washing room, the main impact on the wooden floor is associated with pouring water (shower or dumping from tanks), and often in the mixture with washing agents (soap, shampoo, etc.). In addition, steam clubs can penetrate from the steam. In the pre-tribades, problems are usually associated with a bathing furnace furnace located here, in the zone of which the material is heated. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the temperature difference and dirt that is entered with shoes. The most favorable conditions are provided in a recreation room, where comfort and aesthetics come to first place.

The analysis of the bunny conditions is important to develop an approach to the choice of the floor covering material. The fact is that different species of wood have different properties, and therefore the question of which from which board to make the floor in the bath has its own characteristics. When the material is selected, not only dimensions providing mechanical strength, but also the characteristics of the wood itself.

Choosing a tree of wood

What board is better for the floor in the bath?

On a note! When choosing a wood breed, the following main properties are taken into account: moisture resistance or a degree of hygroscopicity, which is largely determined by the density of the structure; Mechanical strength; a tendency to deformation when drying; The presence of harmful resins.

The last characteristic is especially important in the steam room, where under the action of superheated steam at a sufficiently high temperature, resinous substances are highlighted from wood and inhaled by man. In this regard, the danger to the body represents some coniferous woods containing a large number of resin.

What board to use for the floor in the bath? These breeds of trees are most often found:

1. Larch. Refers to coniferous breed and has high strength and density. Essential oilscontained in wood are able to provide therapeutic effects, especially with violations of cardiovascular or immune system. The structure has a natural antiseptic, which ensures the fight against microorganisms that cause rotting. Smithy substances are actively standing out at first, but in the future they stop evaporated. One of the main flaws is the high cost of the material.

2. Oak. This breed has unique strength, resistance to increased temperature and moisture, but it is used, as a rule, in the form of finishing material. Oak board boards do not find widespread due to elevated swelling, difficulty in processing, leaning towards cracking during temperature drops.

3. Cedar. It has a kind of fibrous structure, which provides important property: Very low deformation and lack of cracking. The rotting of such wood is practically absent, and appearance Causes admiration. Advantages need to include increased heat capacity, which provides long-term heat conservation. Limits the use of cedar boards only high cost.

4. Pine. Main positive properties: low cost, simplicity of processing. Correctly conducted wood drying makes it possible to eliminate the risk of cracking and deformation. The main disadvantage: low resistance to rotting. Pine arts are actively developing fungi and various microorganisms. When solving the question, which board should be treated in the bath in the bath, pine flooring are most often rejected. At the same time, the pine is widely used as a lag, intermediate and supporting elements of a wooden floor.

5. Lipa. The classic Russian sauna is always based on this tree tree. She has medical propertiesAnd the texture creates a kind of decor. As an outdoor board, its use limits such negative sidesAs low heat capacity (enough cold surface) and high tendency to rot, which requires careful treatment.

6. Osin. It is largely similar to Lipa. It has comparative low cost And easy to process. The main disadvantage: begins to darken when exposed high temperatures.

Summarizing the arguments in favor of a tree of wood, it should be noted that the question of which boards are needed for the floor to the bath, it is decided on financial capabilities and to what a flooring is being built in a bathroom.

On a note! The larch is most attractive, but at economically saving, pine boards are still used.

What is taken into account when preparing the material

In addition to choosing a tree of wood important role Other features play. First of all, you need to take into account quality indicators:

1. Screenboard. For the floor in the bath can be used a typical or tipped board. The difference lies in the formation of the end. In the tipped version, on one side, a longitudinal spike is formed, and on the other - the corresponding groove. As a result of the use of such products, a castle compound is provided, which makes it possible to dense fitting and arrangement of an unconflaking floor covering. Naturally, the profiled board has a higher cost, but the quality of the floor rises significantly.
2. Humidity. A very important parameter for any wood is considered to be residual moisture in the structure of the material. For sex, it is necessary to apply only well dried goods, i.e. With minimal humidity. Wet wood during drying is exposed to deformation, which will cause surface irregularities. The value of humidity within 7-9% is considered optimal, at least no more than 12-13%.
3. Dimensions. The thickness of the bathboard for a bathroom provides its mechanical strength. In principle, it significantly depends on the properties of wood, i.e. From the tree breed. So, when using an oak board, a thickness of 20-25 mm is sufficient, to ensure the same strength, a pine board with a thickness of 40-45 mm will be required. A typical tipped board is offered to a thickness in the range of 27-37 mm. The selection of this parameter is due to real loads, taking into account the area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

On a note! The width of the board also affects the reliability of the flooring and the probability of deformation. The already she, the smaller the risk of its curvature in cross section.

The most frequently used board width is 10 cm. In the case of using a well-dried material, you can safely choose the width of about 17-20 cm.

Specific features

The quality of the outdoor board coating in the bath and its reliability depend on such nuances:

1. Acclimatization. If we make the floor in a bath from boards, regardless of the tree of wood, it is recommended to enable the material to acclimatize in those conditions where it will be. For this, the boards should be taken into a bathroom at ordinary moisture and temperature and leave them for 3-5 days.
2. Method for fastening a board coating. Ordinary boards It is customary to fasten to lags with nails or self-drawing at right angles. Hats fasteners are necessarily drilled into a tree. The circular board can be mounted on a spit, which makes it possible to remove the hats from the surface. Wide boards (more than 14-15 cm) will additionally have to be fixed in the middle.
3. Treatment. Any wood, even larch or oak require impregnation with a special antiseptic to eliminate the life of fungi and other microorganisms that cause rotting. The impregnation is exposed to all wooden parts - both internal (lags, supports, shapling) and the boards of the first floor. In this case, modern formulations may include additives that change the tinted tree with a decorating target.

Technological features

Bath floor: What boards to use is just the first question. The following task is to choose its design. In practice, use 2 options:

1. Leaking variety. In it, the boards are styled with a gap, through which the free flow of water from the floor surface is ensured. Such a lattice system is considered traditional for the Russian bath. Stock in such a design is made directly into the ground under the bath or going underground drainage system With the subsequent excretion in special collections outside the building.
2. Impact design. In this case, the boards are firmly adjacent to each other, and the waterproofing is additionally provided to eliminate the seeping of water through the flooring. For such a system, pinned boards are most suitable. Water flows through special drain holes, and the floor itself is done with a bias in the direction of these holes.

Thus, the question is how to lay the floor in the bath from the boards, is solved with the choice of design. In other words, it is possible to install boards with a 0-5 mm clearance or customized close, sealing joints.

Structurally both options are characterized by the way of placing the boards. The structure of the wooden floor is similar. It is carried out in the following order:

1. Alignment and soil seal. Crawling Pillow from sand and rubble with a seal 10-12 cm thick.
2. Laying waterproofing from rubberoid.
3. Installation of lags from wooden bar The size of at least 40x40 cm. The installation step is 40-65 cm depending on the size of the room. Installation is made with the formation of the slope toward the drain holes.
4. Laying or backing of thermal insulation between lags. For this purpose, clamzit is usually used, but mineral wool also shows perfectly. It is impossible to use a foam capable of separating harmful substances when heated. Then another layer of waterproofing and vapor barrier with a foil layer (for the steam room) are applied.
5. After the formation of the formation of the basis of the floor can be superimposed by black flooring from the board, which increases the strength of the structure. However, this element is not mandatory. In principle, the finish milking coating can be attached directly to lags.

The floor in a bath of boards from a long time is considered to be a traditional design. For proper holding all works and adoption of protective measures is capable long term Listen even in extreme conditions of the steam. It is important to choose the way to choose the tree of the tree and carry out the necessary preparatory work.

We have already considered various options Floor devices, including wooden. If you have not yet read an article, you can do it right now.

In this publication, let's learn how to prepare the basis for the construction of the working and flowing wooden floor, how to properly make support for lag, from which ladies do, what a height to make supports and consider other issues related to the base device wooden floors in the bath.

How to make lags for the floor in the bath

In order for the wooden floor in the bath to withstand sufficient load, it is laid on the lags - thick bars or logs installed after a certain distance depending on the thickness of the boards from which the floor will be laid.

For the device lag is best suitable wood larch or pine, not afraid of moisture and having sufficient strength.

As you know, the floor in the bath should have a small bias towards the pit for collecting water. Therefore, the lags are also carried out not at the same level, but with a small drop in height so that the floodplates go with a slight bias.

Before laying the lags, you need to decide on the direction of water in the direction of water so as not to redo the floor. But this applies mainly not flowing floors, water from which is completely assembled and diverted into the sewer. The direction of laying lag should be perpendicular to the direction of water flow.

If the floor is planned to be done by flowing, the bias can not be provided and flooring without slope.

What section to make lags?

So that the lags withstand the weight of washes, their cross-section is chosen depending on the distance between the supports to which they will fit. The greater this distance, the thicker will be lags. The ratio of the height of the lags to width is usually selected 1.5-2 (that is, the height of 1.5-2 times more width).

The main dimensions of the lag depending on the distance between the supports are shown in the table below:

As you can see, with a slight distance between the supports, you can save on the purchase of a thick bar or logs.

Even more on the bar can be saved by setting the columnar supports under the lags. So, with a length of Lag 6 meters, only one support in the middle will reduce the cross section of lags from 220 x 80 mm to 150 x 80 mm. And if the supports put in 1 m, then the timing can be used with a cross section of 80 x 50 mm. The difference is visible to the naked eye.

When choosing a section of lags, do not forget to consider and the required mark of clean floor, which will depend on the top of the tops, the thickness of the floorboard, the marking of the bustling crown or the tape base.

How many lags are put?

The distance between the lags (step LAG) is selected depending on the thickness of the boards, of which the floor will be laid. The thicker the board, the greater the distance between the adjacent lags and the opposite.

The distance between lags, depending on the thickness of the floor boards, is given in the table:

Laga support device

Stroll supports for lags can be made from various material - from wood, brick or from monolithic concrete. In the case of a support from a brick or wood, a small concrete platform with a thickness of 200 mm should be made as a base, protruding in each direction at least 50 mm from under the support, which will be done on this site.

In general, the columnar support will have the following structure:

• 10 cm of sandy submet;
• 15 cm rubble or gravel;
• 20 cm concrete base;
• Support design of brick (wood).

Under each support, a hole should be pulled out with a depth of 40 cm, to make a sandy submet, in top of the gravel or crushed stone, and then set a formwork with a 200 mm high and perform the fill of the concrete base of the support. After the concrete is frozen on the concrete base, lay a piece of rubberoid, having tightened the top of the base with hot bitumen.

The concrete mix for filling the base can be prepared in the following proportion - 1 part of the cement, 3 pieces of sand, 5 parts of rubble (gravel).

Space device under floor

After the supports are arranged by space, which will be under the floor.

If you have on the site good soils (Sand), then you can make the flowing floor, and under the floor to the soil pour 250 mm gravel. Through gravel, water will go into the sand and the device of drainage pipes will not need.

If the soil absorbing water is so-absorbed on the construction of the bath, then an uninhabited floor with water collection in the pit and the subsequent tap is beyond the baths in the team or relief.

If you want to make the flowing floor, and the soils are bad, then you can use the old people's way. From above, gravel will be taken to the ground, it is good to ramble it, and lay a layer of oily clay with a thickness of 10-15 cm with a slope in the direction of the catchment pit, from which the water on the tube will be discharged beyond the battery.

Figure figures indicate: 1 - gravel preparation; 2 - clay; 3 - Water collection tray (pit); 4 - veil walls from clay; 5 - drainage pipe.

Do not flow the floors can be insulated with a deprive of clay. At the same time, a layer of claympsite choose such a thickness so that the free space remains to the lags laid on the supports at least 10-15 cm for ventilation of the underground space. Otherwise, the floor quickly rotates.

* * *
Now you know how to choose a section of the lag and the thickness of the wooden floorboards in the bath, how to determine the number of columns under lags, as well as to equip the underground space depending on the type of floor bath.

In the following articles, we learn how to lay lags on supports, how to perform a black floor and how to put the insulation in non-flowing floors.

Reading time ≈ 15 minutes

One of the main stages of the construction of the bath is the arrangement of floors. Convenience, functionality and life of the construction largely depends precisely from the flooring. Next in the article you will find an overview possible options coatings with schemes as well as the answer to the most main question - How to make the floor in the bath with your own hands.

Wood bath.

Floor options

When choosing a floor design for a bath or sauna, it is worth understanding that these rooms consist of several rooms with different functions and conditions, therefore, the requirements for the floors are different. In general, all the designs of the floors consist of several parts:

• rough floor. May be concrete or on wooden lags. The concrete screed is sometimes not covered with floor surface and is used as the floor;
• flooring. It may be wooden, from ceramic tiles.

Wood

Wood is familiar traditional materialwhich is used for centuries to arrange the floor in the bath or sauna. The advantages of floors of wood:

• available cost (especially from inexpensive breeds, for example, pine);
• easy work with wood, simple installation, as well as repairs;
• beautiful appearance, familiar to traditional Russian baths / saunas;
• warm floor, comfort when contacting barefoot;
• safe, non-slip, eco-friendly coating.

However, there are some drawbacks:

• comparative brightness of the wooden floor under the influence of constant moisture and high temperature (the need for periodic replacement and repair);
• lack of design selection.

It is also worth clarifying that the wooden floor in the bath can be two types:

Tile

Although ceramic tile And it is not traditional floor material in the Russian bath, now it is increasingly used in pairs of considerations of practicality and convenience. And not in vain, because the material has a lot of weighty advantages:

Ceramic tile in floor trim.

• long service life (subject to styling technology, the tile will serve not one generation);
• hygienic and simplicity of care / cleaning;
• strength to mechanical impacts, humidity, elevated temperatures and differentials, aggressive chemicals;
• unlimited design features due to a wide range of colors, patterns, layout patterns. If you wish and the availability of funds, you can lay out a whole picture or make a truly unique interior Bath.

Important! The bath tile should have an appropriate marking - A1 and B1. It is also important to choose the correct material thickness - 9 mm and more. Regarding the class of wear resistance - if the bath is intended only for family use once a week, it is enough to choose class 2. If the room will be operated often, you will need the most high level Wear resistance - 4-5 class.

Tile marking.

But in order to adopt a weighted solution, you need to know about the minuses of the material:

• cold floor;
• slipping floor - increased risk of falls. To reduce the risk of falling, you need to choose a tile with a rough, corrugated surface;
• the high cost of material and work (to the cost of the tile itself you need to add the price of the tramp, glue, grouts).

In the comparative table below you can see the assessment of wood and tiles according to the most important criteria:

Paul in different rooms bath

Since the bath / sauna consist of different rooms from different conditions, then the requirements for flooring in these rooms may differ significantly:

Arrangement of roughing

As we indicated, a draft floor should be made in the bath, to which the coating will be laid. This can be the base of concrete or on wooden lags.

Concrete option

Concrete floors in the bath are a durable, durable and reliable base. Such gender is great for a large bath with several rooms, which are used yearly. The service life of the concrete floor is over 50 years.
Especially advisable to build a concrete base in the steam room and washer.

Benefits of concrete base:

• long service life;
• increase strength over time (provided that correct technology);
• resistance to mechanical impacts, temperature differences, moisture and pair, dampness and rotting.

Concrete floor device.

Concrete floor can be used for construction with ribbon and stated foundation. In the photo above, you can see the concrete device, which resembles a puff pastry:

1. Soil (often sandy) or sand layer.
2. Layer rubble thick up to 5 cm.
3. The first bowl of concrete is thick up to 5 cm.
4. Waterproofing material.
5. Layer of insulation thickness up to 8-10 cm.
6. Clean screed (if the area is large - reinforcement is added).
7. Cutting floor covering.

Preparatory work and materials

Be sure to provide a way to remove the used water. There are two possible options:

• apartment adjustment. This is a waterborg with concreted walls, at least 0.3 m deep. It is very important to equip a water-fuette tube in the steam room with a hydrotherapist to prevent maliciousness. Also, pride the slope from the pit to the waste ditch.
• the output of water into the soil under the washing / parillery. This option is available when the bath is located on sandy soils that absorb moisture well. The depths of the watershed should be at least 0.6 m. You can fill it with gravel, the remains of the broken brick. With further improvement, it is necessary to take into account the level of inclination to the water collector.

After preparatory work You can proceed directly to the fill of the concrete base. Necessary materials:

• middle grinding sand;
• crushed stone;
• cement M400;
• reinforcing grid (sizes of cells: 1 * 1 cm or 1.5 * 1.5 cm);
• mineral wool;
• waterproofing material.

The proportions of the solution for a screed.

Phased process

Step-by-step instructions for the fill of concrete base:

Follow such instructions for the preparation of the solution on the screed:

1. The stripped sand (perlite) is mixed with water (2 buckets of 10 liters).
2. After decreasing the volume of the mixture, add 5 kg of cement M400.
3. Stir thoroughly, then add another 5 l of water. It will interfere until the solution acquires a homogeneous consistency.
4. In conclusion, add 2 liters of water and 1 bucket of scattered sand. 10 minutes after stirring, the mixture will acquire plastic properties and will be ready for use.

Ready concrete floor in the bath.

Very rarely concrete screed is used as directly finishing flooring and in most cases is trimmed with tiles or wood. It should be borne in mind that it is a cold floor and during its operation in open video A large level of discomfort may occur.

Paul on wooden lags

If you plan to make a wooden pouring or unpatient floor, then the base can be built on wooden lags.

Device support columns for lag.

For the wooden floor, you must choose carefully dried boards with a thickness of at least 4 cm. The larch is best suited - it is characterized by high strength, but also high worth. You can use olhu, pine.

Underground

So called the space between the soil and wooden base. To improve its arrangement, it is necessary to make a recess around the entire perimeter by 40 cm. Next you need to make support columns:

• At a distance of 1 m from each other, throw the pits 40 * 40 cm in a depth of 40 cm.
• Make a cushion from rubble (15 cm) and sand (15 cm). Both layers need to be well seal. Also both layers should be with a slope towards the drainage.
• Make the formwork and install in the recess. Formworks must rise above the ground level in such a height so that the lags can be installed. Select the solution from cement, sand and rubble in such a proportion: 1: 3: 5. Pour the wells with a solution and align the surface.

Device support columns.

Important! The top edge of all columns should be on the same horizon line. To do this, use a test rope and construction level.

Checking the level of columns.

1. The mixture must dry about 3 days. After that, the tops of the support columns should be hydroizing with bitumen. Instead cement mix The columns can be built of bricks, putting them on the solution.
2. After the entire surface, it is necessary to be applied to the runneroid in one layer, fixing the seams by bitumen.
3. Additionally, all surfaces can be treated with bitumen: columns, a rubberoid layer.

Important! To grasp the roughing floor (rubberoid), it is necessary to provide qualitative ventilation! To do this, in the foundation you need to provide products - special holes that are constantly open. It is necessary to close them only during the firebox of the bath and the use of the steam.

Laying Lag.

As a lag, you need to use high-quality bars with a cross section of 5 * 18 cm. Step-by-step guide:

1. The bars need to cut the desired length by the parameters of the room.
2. Sliced \u200b\u200bbars are stacked on the support poles. It is important that they are on the same horizon line. To do this, you can use either lining, or trim the lags.
3. Lags are attached to the columns. To do this, you can use the corner, self-tapping screws (ordinary nails) and screws with dowels.
4. At the end, all metal elements, as well as the bars themselves, you need to fully hydroize using bitumen. Ignoring this step threatens very rapid rotting.

Lags laid on columns.

Pouring look

One option, how to make the floor in the bath with your own hands, is a pouring flooring, whose scheme we will look at. Creating the foundation for the instructions considered above, you can start arrangement.

Important! The pouring type of sex can be used in the construction of warm latitudes, or if the bath is operated only in the summer.

Device of the flowing gender.

The pouring gender is the simplicity of installation and low cost. Make it even a newcomer will be very easy. Roughly speaking, it fits from boards with gaps, through which water flows. No Waying System No - Water appears straight to the ground. Also under the bottom of the room you can build a pallet, and to ensure the water removal.

Step-by-step guide:

1. Prepare boards along the length corresponding to the room.
2. Start stacking boards across the support lag with a gap of from 3 to 6 mm. The wall needs to keep the gap of 20 mm.
3. Boards do not need to be attached to the lags! For bonding design, additional transverse boards are used on top of the flooring, which the flooring is fastened with screws. Subsequently, they can be easily unscrewed, but to remove the boards and take it on drying.

Tip: So that the water is not stood in the fibers of wood, the board before the flooring needs to be thoroughly chop from all sides.

The flowing gender: projection in the context.

Alternatively, all boards can be attached to lags with screws without using an additional transverse board. And one wall has several removable boards (unacted), which can be removed for cleaning and drying underground. It is worth understanding that the option with pouring floors is not suitable as a solid durable coating, especially if you collect a steam room very often.

Pouring floor.

Unpole View

This type of wooden floors is distinguished by complexity and at the same time comfortable. Visually, such a floor has no cracks in the coating, but it is equipped with a slope for water drain. It is important to immediately ensure the water disposal from under the foundation - to build a waterball and make an outflow outflow from it. Considering that the water will flush in one place (in contrast to a pouring design), it will be quite simple to do it.

Unpolent floor.

Step-by-step guide:

1. Arrangement of underground space, preparing recesses under columns, ventilation - identical to the above described.
2. Next, the main difference - the columns must be at different levels - with a smaller height at the place of the drain. Tilt level: 3 mm per meter. That is, with the length of the room 4 m, the height difference will be only 12 mm. For this, after the fill of concrete, the formwork will need to adjust the height of the columns (after removing the formwork).
3. Lags are installed on the columns in the same way the method above: with the help of corners, screws and dowels.
4. Next is made a draft wooden floor from the uncircumcised or second-rate board. Boards need to be attached not over the lag, but under them!
5. The draft floor is covered with a layer of waterproofing (for example, rubberoid) and insulation (for example, clamzite, which can be covered in the space between lags). From above there is another layer of waterproofing. On this draft floor is completed and ready for the first flooring.
6. Before flooring the boards need to be prepared. It will require a grille (mesh), a tube or hose.

Siphon for draining in the bath.

As a floor, it is necessary to use a tongue board - such boards have protrusions (tongs), which are included in the slots of neighboring boards, thereby providing the density of the fit. Boards can not be fixed to chernovoy semi, and bonded with a cross-bru.

Bowboard.

Paul in dry rooms

These rooms will attribute a prebator and a rest room (sometimes these functional zones There are in the same room). You can make a simple boardboard floor of a tongue board without slope and drainage. You can also equip the insulated floor - how to do it, consider further.

Since the technology of installing columns., Supporting lags and boards are similar to, we will stop more on the moment of laying insulation.

Insulated floor.

Thus, we considered various options and schemes of how the floor can be made in the bath with their own hands. Remember that choosing the floor for the bath is preferably still at the design of the construction in order to provide all the nuances and not avoid problems.

Video: How to make floors in the bath.