Quality varietal grapes- great value for the summer resident. But how to grow it if finances do not allow buying such seedlings? Will come to the rescue simple ways propagation of grapes - seeds, layering and shanks. The first option is not very reliable, since the genetic characteristics are lost during sowing. It remains only to master the propagation of grapes by layering and shanks, since both methods fully preserve the properties of the mother vine.

When and how grapes are propagated with shanks

Such agrotechnical work as the propagation of grapes by cuttings is traditionally performed by gardeners in spring or autumn. The cut off branch must have at least 4 buds - this is necessary for good rooting of the future vine. Parts of the vine, free from whiskers and leaves, are suitable for germination. The bottom of the shoot is cut off at an angle and placed in a vitriol solution for disinfection.

In autumn, the woody petioles have time to be cut before the first frost, so that planting material contained enough nutrients... If there are few branches, they are stored in the refrigerator. If there is a lot, they are removed to the cellar. Alternatively, the workpiece can be dug into the ground.

The shanks are stored in bundles in plastic bags or plastic bottles, cut in half. On the packaging, they must make a note about the variety. The label will help to avoid confusion when propagation of grapes by cuttings at home will be carried out using different types lianas.

During the storage period of the planting material, it is aired and watered every day 1 - 2 times in 48 hours. If the branches are in the refrigerator or basement, it is important to monitor the temperature of the room. V warm conditions buds are formed ahead of schedule, and this significantly spoils the quality of future seedlings.

Regardless of whether grapes are planted with cuttings in spring or autumn, the blanks must be removed from storage and cut with a knife with a knife. After squeezing, the twig should release a light "tear". The release of cloudy juice indicates the unsuitability of the shank - it has rotted. If there is not a drop of moisture, then the petiole is dry. It is also necessary to inspect the cut for stains. A healthy, normally preserved cutting should not have them.

Sorted specimens are soaked in warm filtered water for two days. On the third day, the workpieces are placed in a solution designed to stimulate root formation. Then the prepared shanks need to be planted. To do this, use large plastic cups filled with nutrient earth and sand. The mixture is moistened and a seedling is inserted into each container. From above it is covered with an empty glass, imitating the semblance of a greenhouse.

Planting grapes by cuttings in autumn open ground perform after the appearance of delicate leaves. The work is going on in stages:

1. On the plantation, they dig holes and put fertilizers in them.
2. Two petioles are placed in one hole (when they take root, it will be possible to assess their quality and leave the strongest shoot; 2 seedlings are allowed to be left if there is a distance of at least 20 cm between them).
3. At the bottom of the well, a hole is made using a crowbar and the handle is inserted so that the kidney is directed towards the row.
4. The deepening is covered with loose soil and the site is rammed.

Reproduction of grapes in summer with green cuttings

Consider how to propagate grapes by cuttings in late May - early June using green shoots. The material is harvested in the evening, simply breaking it off by hand. The twigs are placed in a container with water, irrigated and covered with a damp cloth. In this form, they should stand until morning in the basement.

In the morning, the branches are cut into cuttings, ignoring the top. Usually the cuts on the tops of the vines will rot, so grafting will be useless. The shoot is dissected into segments so that each one has 2 leaves and 2 eyes. A stump (up to 1.5 cm) is still left above the upper kidney, and the lower cut is performed under the last knot. Half top sheet cut off, the bottom leaf is cut off completely.

Each copy of the planting material is placed one third of its length in a Heteroauxin solution (half a tablet must be diluted in 1 liter of water). Optimum temperature water - 18 - 22 degrees. Exposure time - 8 - 10 hours in diffused light.

The workpieces are planted in a deep box with smooth edges, layer by layer filled with a mixture fertile land with sand (10 cm) and washed coarse sand (up to 5 cm). The contents are abundantly watered and the seedlings are placed according to a 10 x 10 scheme with a depression of 2 - 3 cm. The container is covered with polyethylene or whitewashed glass.

To be successful, you need high humidity... This condition is ensured by spraying seedlings from a spray bottle 4 - 5 times a day. warm water... When the rudiments of the root system appear, the frequency of irrigation is reduced by up to 3 times.

The petioles are hardened after 3 - 4 weeks. First, the box is opened in the evenings for 10 to 15 minutes. Then the time is gradually increased so that the young stand in open form all day. Rooted material is grown in greenhouses or open field. By the fall, it acquires developed roots and has an increase of 40 - 50 cm. The grown material is dug up and stored in the basement until spring. With the onset of warm days, the grapes are propagated by green cuttings in the selected place.

Features of the propagation of grapes by layering

Some farmers value grape propagation by layering more than cuttings. This work is simple, and a novice winegrower will easily master it. The essence of the event lies in the rooting of the shoot without separation from the mother plant. Experienced summer residents recommend using this method in areas free from phylloxera.

Let's describe in detail how grapes propagate by layering:

One adult vine is capable of producing no more than two high-quality cuttings. If for some reason the described work was not completed in spring or autumn, you can plant grapes with layering at home in the first week of July.

An exact repetition of the properties of the mother plant is obtained by the method of vegetative reproduction - daughter seedlings have the same genetic set. This means that the second generation of the vine in 2 years will bring a harvest of berries, the taste of which you liked so much. It is enough to root the stalk.

The method is good because it does not require special expenses for the purchase of planting material. During autumn pruning 90% of the vines are removed from the bush. Material for grafting is easy to receive as a gift from a neighbor in the country or to buy inexpensively from breeders.

Lignified cuttings for vegetative propagation of grapes are cut after the leaves have fallen from the bush, even before the onset of frost. By this time, the buds and tissues of the vine are already fully formed. During the summer, the supply of nutrients (carbohydrates) is set aside - such cuttings take root easily and grow quickly.

Fatty vines, too thin, with traces of damage by diseases or pests, with unripe wood are unsuitable for cuttings. The upper and lower 1/3 of the vine is not used for vegetative propagation - only the middle part of the shoot with normally developed buds.

Trace elements useful for forcing and rooting are concentrated in the central part of the vine in the maximum concentration for the plant.

For the preparation of shanks at home, segments of the vine with 3-4 nodes are cut with a sharp pruner.

1. The rule "bottom cut - straight, top - oblique" is surprising to the uninitiated. This is just a simple way to make a mark so that later you can distinguish where the handle is up and where is the bottom. If planted upside down, the shank will not take root.
2. Shoots deformed and with traces of various damages are not suitable for reproduction.
3. The thickness in the area of ​​internodes should be at least 8 mm, the length of internodes should be no more than 15-18 cm.

Experienced growers believe that the best shanks are obtained from shoots on young wood (up to 2 years old).

Before laying for storage, the vines should be disinfected with a 1-2% solution of copper or ferrous sulfate... The shanks are protected from moisture loss by covering the sections with paraffin or a special film. Alternatively, the vines are stored in slightly damp sand.

At a temperature of 3-6 ° C, metabolic processes in the cuttings freeze - in a state of biological dormancy without access to light, it retains the ability to germinate until spring.

Preparing cuttings for rooting

In February, cuttings are taken out for germination. The first step is to check the safety of the vine: make a cross section and look at the condition of the wood.

1. On a cut of a high-quality cutting, the green layer of cambium under the bark should be clearly visible.
2. When you press the handle, moisture should appear at the cut - a sign of preserved plant juices.
3. Check for cut and buds, if the contents inside them have darkened - the vine is unsuitable for cutting cuttings.

Vines suitable for germination are cut into 2 - 3-eye segments. It is great if the lowest node is with a tendril - this means that there is a special membrane that has kept the juice of the vine from drying out in winter. These cuttings take root faster.

The upper cut is made 2-3 cm above the peephole, the lower one is under the peephole itself, retreating 0.5 cm.

Chopped shanks are soaked in running water... Very good for soaking melt water with the addition of synthetic rooting stimulants (Heteroauxin, Kornevin) or natural (diluted aloe juice or honey - 1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water).

After soaking, a furrow is carried out: shallow cuts are made on the bark - a scratch of 0.5 mm to the green cambium is enough, only 3-4 cuts 2-3 cm long at the lower eye.

There is no consensus on the need for waxing - on the sections, when drying, the capillaries themselves narrow and do not allow the cuttings to dry out. In any case, the molten paraffin will "clog" the stalk faster. In the absence of paraffin, the cut can be closed up with plasticine for modeling.

The stalk is now fully prepared for rooting.

Germinating grape cuttings in a jar of water

To grow a dozen seedlings in a city apartment, there is a simple proven method - in an ordinary glass jar.

1. At the bottom of the jar (the volume does not matter) lay a layer of cotton wool (about 2 cm) and pour the same layer of boiled water (2 cm). It is advisable to add a few crystals of potassium permanganate to the water and a couple of tablets of activated carbon for disinfection.
2. Place the cuttings in the jar, put the jar on the windowsill. It is advisable to mark the water level with a marker so that there is something to compare with.

Further care is to control the water level. If you wish, you can put a plastic bag on top of the jar so that the water evaporates more slowly. You will get an impromptu mini-greenhouse.

The buds are the first to bloom, the rudiments of roots at the site of scratches (furrows) appear 2 weeks later (sometimes even longer - it all depends on the quality of the vine).

Growing and harvesting cuttings

It happens that the second green shoot begins to germinate from the upper eye, but the roots have not yet formed. It is necessary to break off the first strong shoot so that it does not draw the juices from the cutting. Stock nutrients for 2 shoots and roots may simply not be enough.

It is imperative to pinch off the rudiment of the inflorescence - it will definitely not be needed. Do not be afraid that the bush will grow weak - the replacement shoot is not inferior in strength to zero.

For germination a large number vines are used by kilchevators. The device is a bottom heated chamber. It turns out that sprouting cuttings have “legs” warm, and “head” cold. With such a temperature difference, roots form faster, and green shoots are in no hurry to grow.

The video shows how you can prune grape cuttings before planting for further germination.

Planting sprouted stems in pots, glasses or boxes

When the rudiments of roots 1-5 mm appear on the cuttings, it is time to plant the vines in a solid substrate.

With the best of intentions, inexperienced summer residents make a common mistake: they use too nutritious soil to get seedlings and germinate cuttings.

It should be the other way around: in search of "food", the roots grow rapidly at the expense of internal reserves.

For rooting, a substrate is quite suitable:

• 1 part compost;
• 1 part of ordinary land (preferably from the place where the seedling will grow);
• 2 pieces of sand.

For root formation, you can add a little wood ash- it contains many useful trace elements.

For rooting the shanks, it is better to use separate containers in order to subsequently transfer the seedlings to a permanent place using a non-traumatic method - with a lump of earth.

It is best to use peat pots - the seedling is sent to the vineyard together with a peat container, which will quickly soak in the ground and serve as fertilizer. To germinate grape cuttings, you need to take dishes with a volume of 1.0-1.5 liters.

The container (if it is not peat pots) should be disinfected before planting the shanks - rinse with boiling water or rinse with a solution of potassium permanganate.

1. Fill the dishes 1/3 with the substrate.
2. Carefully set the stalk, add earth to half the capacity.
3. Watered well with water to settle the soil.
4. Fill the container with soil to the remaining height (1 cm below the rim).
5. All pots can be installed in a box and covered with foil - you get a greenhouse for seedlings.

Practice shows that the seedling is ready for "relocation" to a permanent place when the green shoot reaches a length of 12-15 cm. The roots will grow by 5-7 cm by this time. It is impossible to notice this in ordinary dishes. Using peat pots allows you to see what is in a certain moment the roots will begin to punch through the walls of the dish.

Rooting shafts in soil or sawdust

In the landing box big size(or greenhouse) shanks with root rudiments are planted according to the same principle:

• install neatly;
• fall asleep with filler;
• watered;
• fill to the top.

The distance between the shanks must be at least 10 cm, otherwise they will intertwine with roots and it will be impossible to plant them without damage.

Proper care of rooted cuttings at home

If the cuttings planted for rooting are covered with a greenhouse from plastic film, care for seedlings is minimized:

1. Watering when the substrate dries. It is optimal to place all containers on a pallet and carry out bottom watering, which only stimulates root growth. If this is not possible, water should be very sparingly - the apparent lack of water should be compensated for by the greenhouse effect of a film shelter.
2. You should not feed the seedlings at the stage of regrowth of the root system - the plant will not have an incentive to grow roots.
3. If the seedlings are covered with foil, regular ventilation is necessary to prevent fungal diseases.
4. It goes without saying that the seedlings should grow on a well-lit windowsill or balcony.
5. When the green shoot grows up to 12-15 cm in length, the seedlings are ready to be transplanted into the ground.
6. If the weather still does not allow planting grapes in a permanent place (the temperature is not higher than 10-12 degrees), the seedlings can be transferred to the balcony, veranda, put in a greenhouse.

Planting grapes in cold ground is dangerous, because the roots grow slowly in the cold - acclimatization in place will be difficult and painful.

Until the warmth is established, the grape seedlings will grow and get stronger - rooted cuttings can be planted in open ground until mid-June. If the growing utensils are of sufficient volume (at least 1.0 l per seedling), the plants will not experience discomfort.

With the arrival of real heat with a transplant, it is no longer possible to pull - the seedling should not just grow shoots. The vines should ripen during the summer and bud. next year... The future first harvest depends on them.

Breeding is a laborious process that requires time and care. One of the ways is the propagation of grapes by cuttings in the spring (shanks) at home. It is ideal if you want to preserve all the characteristics of the mother vine in the future offspring.

Harvesting and storage of cuttings

It is very important to properly prepare the grape shanks. This is done in late autumn, when the bush has already thrown off its leaves, but there has not yet been a strong frost. To obtain good material, take the part of the branch that bore fruit in the season. It should be straight and at least 0.7 cm thick, not stiff. It must be cleaned of the remaining leaves, antennae, lateral shoots and cut into pieces, leaving at least four buds on each. In this case, the cut is made at an angle from above, and from below it is cut straight.

After the cuttings are tied in bunches and marked by grade. Be sure to disinfect them in copper sulfate diluted up to 5%. After drying, the shanks are ready for storage. They are wrapped in polyethylene and stored at a low temperature - in the underground or in the refrigerator. Digging into the ground is also practiced.

During the winter, the material is periodically checked and 1-2 times turned from side to side, and the storage conditions are also monitored. If the temperature is too high, the shanks can release shoots earlier than required.

Grape propagation by cuttings and spring preparation

In order for the propagation of grapes by cuttings at home to be successful, you need to prepare them by germinating in water and then in the ground. A week or two before the expected start of germination, in early February, the shanks are taken out of the storage area and checked if they are well preserved. If moisture is released from the cut when pressed, it means that the material has perfectly preserved its freshness. For the final check, a test is carried out: a new incision is made, which, ideally, should be light green, with no signs of rot.

Preparing cuttings for germination

Before propagating the grapes, the cuttings must be prepared. It is necessary to soak them in warm water for two days - this will help "wake up" the sprouts. It is then recommended to soak the branches in a rooting-stimulating solution that can be found in horticultural stores (such as root, humisol, zircon). Very good results are obtained by stimulating growth and root formation with aqueous solution bee honey containing natural biogenic stimulants that help germinate and root plants. Its concentration is 1 tablespoon per bucket of warm water. The exposure time is 48 hours. Cuttings must be immersed completely.

Grape cuttings sprouting in the ground

The next stage in the propagation of grapes is the germination of cuttings at home in the ground. A glass or a plastic bottle will be of invaluable help here.

• The first option is a matryoshka doll. Take two plastic glasses different sizes and placed one into the other with the condition that a vessel of a smaller volume can freely fit into another with a margin of 2-3 cm. In a large container, a couple of holes are made with a nail or awl for removal excess moisture... A soil mixed with humus is placed at the bottom, about 2 cm. For a smaller glass, it is necessary to cut off the bottom and install the container inside the large one, fill the space between their walls with earth, crush it. Clean sand is poured into a small one, preferably river sand, moisten it. The glass itself is removed, and buried in the sand grape stalk 4cm, watered. The seedling is covered with a cut off plastic bottle without a lid or a jar - they make a greenhouse. V further care behind the plant is watering with warm water every 2 days. The greenhouse is removed when the roots grow to the walls of the vessel, and four new leaves appear on the branch.
• Planting grape cuttings in bottles is even easier. Take a two-liter plastic vessel, cut off the top at the desired height, punch small holes in the bottom. Drainage is laid from below, 2-3 spoons of the substrate are added, into which the shank is buried by 4-5 cm. An important point: the first bud or peephole must be flush with the edge of the container. Cover the seedling with a greenhouse - a cut top from the same vessel or a glass. The position of the pet is with the eye turned away from the window. You do not need to water the substrate directly. It is enough to place a bottle with a branch in a tray of water for 15 minutes.

The process of planting in the ground

The final stage works - planting sprouted grape cuttings at home in a vineyard on open ground. This is usually done in the first days of May. By this time, the seedlings should be well rooted. Fresh leaves have already hatched and grown on them.

Planting cuttings in the ground is as follows:

1. Position the sprout so that the top eye of the planted cuttings is 5cm below soil level.
2. Put fertilizers at the bottom, make a hole with a crowbar and put a seedling in it, cover it with earth, tamp it.
3. Immediately after planting, the future bush is abundantly watered and hilled. Further care consists in watering and tying as needed.

The grapes for which propagation by cuttings was used may yield a harvest as early as next year.

Outcome

As it turned out, the propagation of grapes by cuttings is not such a difficult process, it is enough to follow the sequence and follow the recommendations of Vsad.

Rooting lignified cuttings is the main method of grape propagation, available even to a novice gardener. The principles of growing seedlings from cuttings vary slightly depending on the region and have many options, but the success of obtaining high-quality seedlings is subject to simple rules guaranteed. You just need to get some cuttings of the variety you like and be patient.

Harvesting grape cuttings in autumn

The time when in the fall it is already possible to cut grape cuttings for early spring or even winter planting for germination, occurs when the leaves begin to turn yellow. During this period, they can be cut off, and after a week, cuttings can be cut. However, you should not rush, because it is much more convenient to do this. late autumn, during the main pruning of bushes in front of shelter for the winter. By that time, the leaves will be gone, the unripe vine fragments will freeze from the first mild frosts, and everything will be "in full view." Leaving the harvesting of cuttings in the spring is not worth it: who knows what will happen to the vine in winter?

Often the top of the vine does not have time to ripen for summer period, and it must be removed. Actually, after the first frost it is perfectly visible. A well-ripened vine crackles when bent. It is advisable only to have time with cutting before temperatures below -5 o C. In the fall, cuttings should be cut longer than they are required for planting, with 5-6 buds, since in the spring they will again need to be cut on both sides. The best shoots for grafting are at least 5 mm in diameter, from the middle of a vine that has grown to at least one and a half meters in length. Thin cuttings will also take root, but the process will go slower, the seedlings will not grow so strong.

After leaf fall, choosing the desired section of the vine is simple, everything is clearly visible

If this first and simple operation is not performed correctly, further work may be useless. The most common errors are:

• cutting too thin cuttings;
• cuttings are not taken from the middle of the vine: it is the areas from the middle of the shoot that are better stored, they have the most developed buds;
• cutting was done early: the vine ripens until the very frost, and there is no need to rush with this procedure.

Storage of planting material before planting in the ground

To keep cuttings safe until winter, you need a cellar or shelf in your home refrigerator. They will have to lie there until about mid-February, the optimum temperature is about +1 o C.

Before sending to the cellar, the cuttings must be prepared. This will require:

1. Treat with a chemical to destroy possible disease spores: you can use iron or copper sulfate(1% solution) or Chinosol (0.5%), soaking for a couple of hours.
2. Soak for 1-2 days in water, so that they do not dry out too much during storage.
3. Air dry until clear drops are removed (you can simply wipe off with a cloth).
4. Put in a plastic bag, leaving only the tops of a few centimeters long outside, and tie.
5. Do not forget to sign the package.

If possible, not "naked" cuttings are put into the bag. It is useful to overlay them with pine or spruce sawdust, but first, the sawdust must be scalded with boiling water. Coniferous resin has a beneficial effect on the safety of cuttings, protecting them from accidental mold. During the winter, the sawdust should be changed once or twice. At the same time, carefully examine the cuttings for their suitability, throwing out the clearly blackened ones.

Before sending for storage, labels must be made indicating the variety and origin of the cuttings.

The maximum possible storage temperature for cuttings is 6–7 o C. The air humidity should be slightly less than 100%. Periodically, a revision of the planting material is required: if even traces of mold are found, the cuttings must be wiped and washed with a pink solution of potassium permanganate. If drying is found, soak for several hours (if necessary - up to a day) in water and send it back to the cold.

In most regions of our country, work with cuttings put in storage in the fall begins at the end of winter. First, they need to be prepared for later life, it will be difficult in any case. To begin with, cuttings you need:

1. Unpack.
2. Wash in a dark solution of potassium permanganate.
3. Rinse with clean water.
4. Dry slightly.

Perhaps not everyone survived the winter well, so you need to check their survivability. If you lightly scrape off the bark of a live cutting, green tissue should appear underneath. A brown, yellow or black color suggests that such a cutting will have to be thrown away.

Now from the long stocked cuttings it is necessary to cut those that we will plant. Short cuttings for certain grape planting schemes should have three healthy buds (two are possible, if they are well developed, then that's enough). Cuttings of grapes with three developed buds are traditionally called shanks. Cuttings with a large number of buds will give many roots, which is not very convenient when growing at home.

The upper cut should be straight and 2–3 cm above the kidney, the lower one (1–2 cm under the kidney) is performed obliquely.

In any case, the prepared cuttings should swim in the water for 2-3 days (preferably from the melted snow), and you must be sure that this time is enough. The signal is the release of droplets of moisture on the cut of the cuttings taken out of the water. Sometimes this takes longer.

Then options are possible. There are two of them:

• the most experienced and risky growers plant soaked cuttings in a container with soil directly, without roots, and with careful implementation of all subsequent procedures, they get good results;
• for insurance, the cuttings are first forced to release the roots and only then, with the roots, they are planted in pots or cups with soil.

But in any case, 3-4 longitudinal shallow grooves must be made with a knife or a needle at the bottom of the soaked cuttings. This makes it easier for a more powerful root system to grow. Some amateurs use various rooting stimulants, but this must be done strictly according to the instructions, and good cuttings take root even without their use. A honey solution can serve as a natural stimulant: a tablespoon per liter of water. Of course, success may also depend on the grape variety: there are varieties that are difficult to root.

You can apply shallow scratches with any convenient tool, this will greatly facilitate the formation of roots by cuttings

So, let's say you decide that you will plant cuttings in the ground only after they give roots. How to germinate cuttings, awaken them and force them to form roots? There are also several options here, but one of them is completely elementary. To germinate cuttings you need:

A slightly more complicated option is to use scalded coniferous sawdust instead of water. They are also poured in a layer of 4–5 cm, moistened with water, cuttings are placed on them and the same amount of sawdust is added. Sawdust is sometimes replaced with ordinary cotton wool. The option in which the cuttings wrapped in a wet rag are tightly tied in a plastic bag, leaving only the upper bud out, apparently, is not worth recommending: in the bag, both souring of water and breaking of the emerging roots are possible.

Video: germinating grape cuttings in water

Planting grape cuttings at home in cups or pots

So, in a container with soil, you can plant both cuttings that have already given roots, and simply soaked cuttings. There is a slight difference in planting technique and soil selection.

Planting germinated cuttings

If we plant cuttings with roots, it means that they already have very small green leaves. If three weeks have passed, there are leaves, but there are no roots yet, this does not mean that everything is lost: for some grape varieties this situation is normal, and you have to wait a little longer, freshening the water or replacing sawdust. Cuttings that have taken root can be planted in pots or large glasses.

The optimal length of the roots is from 2 to 4 cm, but when planting them, you must try not to break off

To grow grape seedlings from cuttings, it is convenient to use large paper cups or one and a half liter plastic bottles, cutting off their tapering top and making several holes in the bottom to drain excess water with a hot nail. It is imperative to lay 3-4 cm of drainage from fine pebbles or coarse sand at the bottom of any vessel. Soil is a mixture of equal amounts of fertile soil and river sand.

Cropped plastic bottles as if specially created for growing grape seedlings

One cuttings are planted in each container. It is possible and two at a time, if there are a lot of them, and there is not enough space, but then the worst one will have to be removed: it is possible to grow two seedlings in one bottle, but it will be cramped for them, and then it will be impossible to plant them in open ground without disturbing the root system.

If the stalk had three buds, it must be planted so that one is in the ground, the second is close to the surface, and the upper one is in the air. Two-eyed cuttings are buried almost entirely in the ground: the upper bud should barely be visible from under it.

If the leaves on the handle have already unfolded, then the pot need not be covered, and if they just appeared from the bud, you must put a plastic bag on it for the first time, creating a greenhouse effect. The temperature during the growth of cuttings does not play a special role: it should be at room temperature, and good light is needed, so the containers should be placed closer to the window. In containers, the soil should be constantly slightly moist, but in no case swampy. The frequency of watering depends on the quality of the soil and the conditions in the apartment. Usually you have to water in small portions every few days, sometimes once a week is enough. Water for irrigation should be slightly warmer than room temperature.

Video: planting cuttings in bottles

Planting cuttings without roots

Most grape varieties take root well without preliminary preparation, but when planting cuttings without roots, you need to monitor humidity and temperature more closely. With proper observance of the conditions, the rooting of such cuttings is almost one hundred percent.

The requirements for capacity and the presence of a drainage layer are the same as in the case of germinated cuttings, but the soil mixture is prepared looser: in addition to sand and soil, you must take humus, mixing them in equal quantities. Many amateurs do without earth and sand altogether, filling containers with boiled coniferous sawdust.

It is recommended to plant a grape cut without roots so that almost all of it is in the substrate, and only one bud is visible above it. However, experience shows that leaving two kidneys outside leads to good results... At least five examples different varieties the author of these lines has never had to experience failure.

After planting, water the substrate well with a pink solution of potassium permanganate and cover the stalk with a plastic bag. The best temperature for the formation and growth of roots is from 25 to 30 ° C, but they will germinate at a lower temperature, only in a warm substrate will root formation begin much faster. Do not overheat: if the recommended temperature is exceeded, roots may not form.

Until the roots have formed, it is necessary to water the soil often: about every other day, but without fanaticism. Excess water should drain through the holes into the sump. Many generally water it "from below": they put the pot in a bowl of water for a while, and then take it out of it. After 2-3 weeks, you can slightly tug on the handle: if there is resistance, then the roots have begun to form. From this point on, less water is needed: it is better to let the soil seem a little dry than clearly wet. Around this time, the leaves begin to bloom. As soon as they unfold, the package covering the handle must be removed, and the "vegetable garden" must be transferred to a bright light.

It is necessary to water the cuttings carefully, excess water is more harmful than its lack

Grape cuttings root easily if done correctly. Mistakes in planting cuttings without roots are more fatal than in the case of germinated cuttings. Here's what they can be:

• if the cuttings are poorly soaked or the temperature in the room is low, roots may appear and the leaves may not bloom. We urgently need to raise the temperature and water the cuttings with warm water;
• if the apartment is very dry, roots may appear, and the eyes may not even wake up and dry out: in this case, nothing can be fixed;
• if you do not furrow the cutting and try to get roots in heavy soil, leaves may open, but the roots will not form, as a result, the cutting will die.

Care of planted cuttings

Caring for planted cuttings at home consists in observing temperature regime, irrigation, organization of additional lighting. As already noted, the soil in the cups should not dry out, but stagnation of water is categorically excluded. However, in addition to soil moisture, great importance has air humidity, and in a city apartment during heating season generally dry.

The simplest way out of the situation is that after removing the plastic bag from the handle, two open cans of water are placed next to the structure: one flush with the pot, the second higher, at the level of the upper kidney.

So that the removal of the package does not shock the plant, it can be taught to be without such a hat gradually, removing the package for a short time over several days, and then for a longer time.

It is best to place a "vegetable garden" by a window and a radiator, but there may not be enough light in March for good development future seedling. On initial stage growing strong light is not required. But after the leaves unfold and the shoot begins to grow, most likely you will have to add to sunlight and a fluorescent lamp or diode lamp. Best temperature for plant development from 25 to 28 ° C, but even at slightly lower values, growth will be normal.

Cold light fluorescent lamp can be positioned directly above the vegetable garden

A month after planting the cuttings, they can be fed with a solution of a complex mineral fertilizer according to instructions, for example, azofoski or special fertilizers for grapes, such as Novofert. In May, gradually it is necessary to accustom future seedlings to fresh air taking out the pots to the balcony. From mid-May, in the absence of obvious cold weather, they should be on the balcony almost around the clock, and at the beginning of summer it is time to land in open ground.

When and how to plant grapes correctly, especially planting seedlings in autumn: https://klumba.guru/yagody/vinograd/kak-posadit-vinograd.html

Possible diseases and how to treat them

The quality of the seedlings grown from cuttings directly depends on which bushes the cuttings were cut from. If the bushes have been affected by mildew, oidium or gray mold, the cuttings will not take root well and grow. It is from this point of view that the processing of cuttings is extremely important as before winter storage, and before planting in pots chemicals(potassium permanganate, Fundazol, Rovral, etc.). Such treatment allows to destroy spores of infections on the surface and a significant part of diseases developing inside the wood.

During the germination of cuttings in water, it is possible for an infection to enter the water from the outside, which is prevented by changing the water in the jar and adding wood ash or activated carbon to it. Infection is also possible through sawdust used as a substrate. If an infection enters, the tissues of the cuttings die off or the young shoots rot. In severe cases, up to 100% of cuttings may die. Therefore, periodic preventive spraying once a week with Fundazol or Rovral is not a superfluous operation.

Already in the process of growing planting material at home, you can notice problems on young leaves. The signs of the disease are the same as on adult grape bushes. For example, unexpectedly and rather sharply, the leaves may turn yellow. This is most likely the most dangerous fungal disease mildew, affecting not only leaves, but also young shoots. If the disease has not gone deep, when the first signs appear, the “vegetable garden” should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture or Ridomil Gold.

Mildew begins with small yellow spots, but soon covers the entire leaf

In another situation, the leaves may turn black, which also happens unexpectedly, the process progresses quickly. Sometimes this can happen simply from excess moisture or, conversely, from drying out of the soil. In this case, optimizing growing conditions can still save the day. This also happens due to too dense soil. You can try to transplant urgently: if the matter has not gone far and the roots have not died, the transplant can help. If the leaves have turned black from diseases (and this may be the consequences of several infections at once), it will no longer be possible to save the cuttings.

Features of planting cuttings in the spring in a greenhouse or open ground

It is not always convenient to plant a garden in an apartment, often there is simply not enough space for it. In the middle zone, and even more so in the south of our country, the cultivation of grape seedlings from cuttings can often be transferred to a greenhouse. And in the southern regions they even practice planting cuttings directly in open ground.

Planting cuttings in the greenhouse

The period of physiological rest in grapes ends in January, and its cuttings can already be put on germination. However, for growing in a greenhouse, as well as in an apartment, all work begins no earlier than the end of February. Everything preparatory operations identical to those performed at home (washing and disinfecting cuttings, cutting them into three-eyed pieces, etc.).

For growing in a greenhouse, cuttings are almost always germinated to form roots by placing their ends in a jar of water. Even more often they are planted for the emergence of roots in wet sand directly into the greenhouse, if only the temperature in it has reached values ​​of at least 10-12 o C. This is the lowest possible temperature for root formation, but for guaranteed success, heating in the root zone is needed. Therefore, a greenhouse, in which there is no possibility of connecting heating devices at all, in middle lane or in the north for early spring cultivation of grape seedlings from cuttings is not suitable.

In case of mass cultivation on racks, sand is poured in a layer of up to 15 cm and cuttings are densely planted in it. In amateur viticulture, we are talking about several copies, so any acceptable capacity can be suitable for sand. If the weather in the region is such that the greenhouse needs to be heated, this should not be done especially for grapes, it will be easier to grow seedlings in an apartment.

It hardly makes sense to use a greenhouse for growing several seedlings, but as a temporary, “staging” point, it will also work in amateur viticulture.

After planting the cuttings, the sand must be watered with warm water so that it is constantly slightly moistened. The optimum temperature in the greenhouse is about 18 ° C, and the sand in the root zone is about 23 ° C, the air humidity is about 75%. Under such conditions, the roots are well laid, and bud breakout is temporarily delayed.

After 2-3 weeks, leaves and root rudiments should appear at the same time. After another week, the cuttings are carefully transplanted into any containers of sufficient volume (large cups, cut plastic bottles, etc.). It is desirable that by this time the roots of the branch are at least up to 2 cm. Best line-up soil for landing tanks- turf soil, compost and sand (about 40: 40: 20%). In the future, you need heat, not lower than 25 ° C, and good lighting.

It takes about 2 months from planting in a container to transplanting seedlings to a permanent place. In May, it is necessary to accustom future seedlings to fresh air, opening windows and doors of the greenhouse for a while. At this time, if the shoots have grown from several buds, only one, the most powerful one, is left. If it grows too long, then when it reaches a height of half a meter, the top is pinched to it: for planting in open ground, the main shoot should not be long, but strong, let it continue to grow in thickness.

Planting cuttings in open ground

In the southernmost regions of our country, it is possible to plant cuttings directly in open ground. Moreover, this is often done even in the fall, right after cutting the cuttings, and good results are obtained at the same time. At autumn planting cuttings root well and grow back with the onset of warm weather in spring. The stalk is completely buried in the ground in the fall, leaving only one bud on the surface. But for the winter they huddle it too, and cover the bed with a film and sprinkle it with a layer of earth. In the spring, the structure is opened, a hole is cut in the film for the escape. The stalk is unsettled only when the grapes are clearly growing and there is a steady warmth.

Spring planting of cuttings in open ground is possible when the soil at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 10–12 o C, in the south this time falls on March. Processing of cuttings before planting is standard, keeping cuttings in a jar of water or wet sawdust is mandatory, at least before the roots begin to grow back.

Cuttings are planted in open ground in spring only after they have given roots

Cuttings are planted in well-fertilized soil to a depth of 40 cm: since this is open ground, you do not need to limit yourself to the size of the cuttings, they can have more than 3 buds so that the roots grow powerful immediately. Cuttings are planted with a slight slope, leaving two buds on the surface. If it's still cool, you can temporarily cover them with non-woven materials.

Features of cultivation in different regions

In the case of grapes, the process of growing planting material varies greatly depending on climatic conditions region. If in the southernmost regions they rarely associate with the cultivation of seedlings at home, then in the north it cannot be otherwise.

Districts of the Kuban, including the Krasnodar Territory

In Russia, over half of the grapes are grown in the Krasnodar Territory. The main wine-growing regions are Temryuksky, Anapsky, Krymsky, the cities of Novorossiysk and Gelendzhik. The climate of the Krasnodar Territory is the best suited for viticulture. The weather conditions also differ slightly in other regions, territories and republics of the Kuban region. It is quite warm everywhere here, only the amount of precipitation in certain areas can be very different. The soil is fertile, there is a lot of light, and this makes it possible to get rich harvests of grape berries.

The basic rules for planting in the Kuban do not differ from the usual norms, but seedlings are almost never grown here in a city apartment.

Most often, cuttings are planted directly in open ground, and the "long vine" option is often practiced: in the fall, a piece of vine about one and a half meters long is immediately buried in a large planting hole, twisting it into a spiral and leaving 1-2 buds on the surface. For successful root formation in this option, an irrigation pipe is carried out into the zone of future roots, but a large drainage layer is necessarily arranged.

The soils in many regions of the Kuban are so good that many amateurs do not even dig planting holes, but plant cuttings in the fall “under the ramrod”. This is what they call the technique of making mini-holes with heavy metal scrap. It punches holes 10–12 cm wide and 10–15 cm deep deeper than the length of the cutting. Fertilized soil is poured onto the bottom of the well (only half a bucket!), A long cutting is inserted, the soil is tamped, well watered, the well is filled so that there are no voids left, and they are waiting for a result that is close to 100% success.

Belarus

Belarus was not previously considered an area suitable for viticulture, but these times are long gone: now grapes are on household plots- a common thing, although it requires the application of strength and skills. The climate in the country is rather mild, although not very hot; many grape varieties have time to ripen successfully. But the cultivation of seedlings from cuttings is almost always carried out at home, in extreme cases - in a greenhouse, usually heated.

Planting cuttings for cultivation begins here at usual terms, indicated above - at the very end of winter. Use the most different ways germination, but they do it without fail: almost no one plants cuttings without roots. There is a lot of peat in Belarus, so they try to add it to any soil, and the soil for growing grape seedlings is no exception: the most popular mixture is peat with sand and a small amount of sod land. All other operations are completely similar to those described in the main part of this article.

Moscow suburbs

The climate of the Moscow region is very similar to the climate of Belarus, but more unpredictable, although this applies to winter period, when very coldy alternating with unexpected thaws. Therefore, viticulture is a little more risky here, but this mainly concerns the shelter of adult bushes for the winter and the right choice grape varieties: somewhat limited.

As for the cultivation of seedlings from cuttings, it is carried out in the same way as described above, with a slight shift in timing: cuttings are taken out of storage at the beginning of spring. Their germination for the formation of root rudiments is mandatory, cuttings with roots are planted in a container with soil composed of a mixture of peat and coarse sand. Cuttings are kept in containers a little longer than in Belarus, and are planted in a permanent place closer to mid-June.

Video: grapes from cuttings in the Moscow region

Ural region

Well, who would have thought half a century ago that grapes could be grown in the Urals? Now you can, however, not any varieties, but only the most frost-resistant. You can also grow planting material from cuttings, and this is no more difficult to do than in the middle zone of the European part of Russia. True, the timing is somewhat different here.

Planting cuttings at home is carried out in the same way as in the Moscow region, but they are not planted in June in open ground, but they are grown all summer: first in greenhouses or greenhouses, and from July in the open air. If the growth proceeds powerfully, in the summer the plant is gently transferred into deeper containers (old buckets).

By autumn, planting holes are dug and before the onset of frost (and often already in September) grown seedlings are deeply planted in them, if they already have at least two well-ripened buds. When planting, only one bud is left on the surface, and it is spud and well covered for the winter.

Gardener 24

Many novice gardeners are interested in the question, but how to grow grapes from a cuttings?

Growing grapes from cuttings is the simplest, most inexpensive and effective way... You can also propagate grapes by seeds, grafts and layering. When breeding new varieties, sowing is used. Usually, out of one thousand seedlings, about 1-2 are of interest, all the rest turn out to be worse than the original. Therefore, grapes are best propagated by cuttings.

How to prepare grape cuttings in autumn

Grape cuttings, for the most part, are harvested in the fall, from healthy bushes that grow in your territory. The thickness of the vine should be 7-10 mm, length 55-60 cm, 4-5 buds. The bottom cut should be at an angle and the top cut 2 centimeters above the eyelet. Cuttings should be dipped in paraffin or wax, tied with twine and soaked in water for two days. In order that the cuttings do not dry out, they must be folded into plastic bags and put in the refrigerator. Cuttings are also stored in the cellar, in wet sand. The temperature where the cuttings are stored should be between 0 and + 5 ° C.

The end of February, the beginning of March is the time when you need to start growing grape seedlings from cuttings. Remove the cuttings from where they were stored.

Now the cuttings need to be divided into 2-3 eyes. Above, the cut should be one or two centimeters above the peephole, and at the bottom obliquely, only 1 cm below the peephole. Slices that are below must be cleaned with a sharp knife. Then disinfect the cuttings in a solution of potassium permanganate for 5 hours at room temperature. After the cuttings, you need to soak in well-settled water, it is better if it is melt water, but it should be at room temperature. They need to be soaked for 2-3 days, immersed in water by 2/3.

At the next stage, it is better to treat the cuttings with a growth stimulant by placing them in the solution with the lower eye for a day. The next stage is furrowing. When you remove the cuttings from the growth stimulator, make a 2 cm long scratch over the lower eye with a fork or a nail. This technique will cause cell activity in the furrow site and give an incentive for the fastest root formation. Let's make a kilchivator now. We need pine sawdust, scalded with boiling water and cooled. Then cut off the top of a 2 liter plastic bottle, make small holes for water drainage. In such a container, 5-6 cuttings will fit. Pour 3-4 cm of sawdust into the prepared container, place the prepared cuttings vertically and cover with sawdust up to the upper eye. An important point for growing cuttings is the room where they will grow. It is better to put them near the radiator, where the temperature is 22-25 ° C, and there is cool air on top. Cuttings should be watered every 2-3 days and sprayed daily with warm water. With this mode, callus is formed on the cuttings in the place where the scratches were made and the rudiments of roots appear.

After 25-30 days, the upper bud awakens and the shoot begins to grow, and roots form from below. Rooted cuttings are transplanted into any suitable container. Good for this paper bags from under kefir, or plastic bottles. Plant the cuttings in a 1-part nutrient mixture garden land, 2 parts of sand and 1 part of humus.