Changing the location of berry bushes is a fairly common need. Plants react differently to the procedure depending on the timing of the procedure. Special attention requires a transplant of gooseberries in the fall to a new place, since many factors have to be taken into account.

Transplant goals

Bushes are transferred from place to place for the following reasons:

1. Redevelopment of the site associated with the construction or the need to plant new crops.
2. Planting a cutting or cutting to a permanent place.
3. Transfer of the plant, if it was originally planted in an unsuitable place for it: insufficient lighting, water stagnates, and this leads to frequent illnesses, or there are unsuitable or overgrown neighboring crops nearby that cannot be transferred.
4. Natural aging of the bush or overgrowth.

Dates for spring and autumn transplant

Gardeners unequivocally believe that the best time to transplant gooseberries to another place is autumn. The fruitful plant completes the vegetative cycle, plunging into a state of dormancy. Any manipulations carried out with him will not bring harm. From mid-September to mid-October, and in the southern regions a couple of weeks later, - best terms transplants.

The optimum temperature is from 8 to 15 ° C. Before the cold weather, the bush should have time to take root in a new place, so the time reserve before frost should be at least 20 days. The deadline for transplanting gooseberries in the Volga region is the third decade of October, in the Moscow region and middle lane- until mid-October, in Siberia, the Ural region, the transplant begins in August. In the spring, you should not disturb the bush: it wakes up early, with the first warmth.

Catch the moment when two critical factors a successful transplant will converge, it is very difficult: spring transplant carried out when the kidneys are not yet swollen, but the earth has warmed up well. The experience of summer residents shows that this rarely succeeds in practice. The root system in the spring works on the development of the aboveground part, the adaptation of a plant to a new place takes a long time, the risk of its diseases increases, and it gives poor harvest.

Remember! Weak, diseased bushes are transplanted only in the fall, at least in the summer, if their condition threatens the crops growing in the neighborhood.

It happens that circumstances force the summer resident to solve the problem of whether it is possible to transplant an adult gooseberry in the summer. But during this period, there is an active build-up of shoots, the formation of fruits. Therefore, the procedure is postponed until autumn, excluding extreme cases.

Preparing tools for work

To carry out a gooseberry transplant according to all the rules, you will need tools:

1. Pruner or garden shears.
2. Shovel.
3. Forks, sometimes scrap, to extract the roots of highly overgrown mature shrubs.
4. Ax, they can chop off thick dry or diseased roots.

Working tools sharpen well, cutting surfaces are treated with any disinfectant.

Drop off location

The correct choice of a place for planting gooseberries is the main factor that determines the normal development of the bush, its fruiting and protection from diseases.

Illumination

The plant needs a lot sunlight, therefore, even half-shaded areas are unsuitable for planting it. An area open to the sun all day, protected from drafts and gusts of the north wind - the best place for gooseberries.

Note! If you plan to plant the bushes along the hedge or the wall of the building, the indent from them is made at least one and a half meters to ensure good ventilation of the bush and convenient collection berries.

Best predecessors

It is best to plant gooseberry bushes in those areas where potatoes, beets, and legumes previously grew. As a rule, the soil after such crops (they are called tilled crops) remains loose, with a small amount of weeds, and after legumes, it is saturated with nitrogen. The worst predecessors are black or colored currants, raspberries. They not only strongly deplete the soil, these plants have common pests and diseases, therefore they even avoid their neighborhood.

Soil requirements

The best soil for gooseberries is considered fertile loamy, with an average density. If the soil of the suburban area is different from the ideal, it is ennobled by adding baking powder or compactors. The plant loves neutral soil, and this factor completely determines the health of the bushes - in an acidic or alkaline environment, they immediately begin to hurt. If the pH of the soil in the area is far from neutral, corrective additives are added.

Important! Close location groundwater, stagnation of moisture after rains or melting snow is unacceptable, since gooseberries, including new varieties, have low immunity to fungal diseases.

Transplant technology

The work does not take up a lot of gardeners' time, if you follow the instructions on how to transplant the gooseberries to a new place in the fall.

Landing pit

Prepare a pit for a gooseberry a month before the expected date of moving the bush. During this time, the prepared soil mixture will settle well, nutritional supplements will come into contact with it. The depth of the pit is 50–55 cm, the perimeter depends on the volume of the root system of the transplanted bush. It is usually determined by the size of the crown, taking into account the upcoming pruning.

4-5 buckets of water are poured into the dug hole and two layers are laid out:

• drainage from broken red brick, pebbles, gravel or crushed stone of the middle fraction;
• fertile - part of the excavated soil with the addition of nutrients.

How to prepare and dig up a bush

The step-by-step process of preparing a gooseberry bush for transplantation is as follows:

1. They carry out pruning, removing old and unpromising branches. Leave 6-8 healthy shoots. They are also cut by about a third.
2. Note! Root shoots chopped off, because it will take away the forces required for full rooting.
3. They dig in the bush around the circumference, stepping back from the center by 30-35 cm.
4. Thick roots that go beyond the boundaries of the circle are chopped off.
5. With a shovel, a pitchfork, in difficult cases with the help of scrap, the bush is removed from the ground, laid on a piece of tarpaulin or a plywood sheet.
6. Transfer the bush to a new place.

Traditionally, an autumn transplant of an adult gooseberry is combined with the division of an overgrown plant into several new bushes. For this, the mother plant must be completely freed from the earth and divided into parts so that each has a main and adventitious roots.

Transshipment (with the preservation of the earthen coma) transplanted young, not very overgrown bushes. Only healthy shrubs are passed over, so as not to transfer pathogens to another place with the soil. If the transplant is caused by the need to change the place due to disease, the earth is completely removed, the roots are carefully examined and the rotten, dry, suspicious ones are cut out.

In order to plant a bush, a low earthen mound is poured at the bottom of the hole, a gooseberry is placed on it, the roots directed along the slopes. Then the pit is gradually filled with earth with the addition of compost, ramming moderately. The near-trunk circle is watered with water from a watering can with several methods, adding soil mixture as it subsides. You can deepen the root collar, but no more than 2 cm.

Planting methods for gooseberries

There are three planting methods: bush, belt, single. Bush method suitable for spacious areas exposed to the sun. Planting pits are arranged in rows, maintaining an interval of 2.5–3.0 m between them. The scheme is chosen linear (in one row), checkerboard, in several rows. Tape planting is carried out in trenches 50 cm wide and deep.

The seedlings are placed obliquely, with a step of 50 cm. Fruit-bearing bushes will look like a comb, usually with each pruning, 3 shoots are left on them from the growth of the current year. The advantage of the tape is that the bushes form a trellis, which is easy and convenient to care for from both sides. A single landing is chosen if there is not enough space.

On a well-lit area with dimensions of at least 2.5 × 2.5 m, one bush is placed in the center. Usually, abundantly fruiting varieties are chosen in order to get a decent amount of berries. Such a bush will become an element of the site design.

Care after planting: watering, mulching, preparing for winter

Immediately after transplanting, the gooseberry is watered and the soil under the bush is mulched. Until the final cold snap, the main care remains to keep the soil moist, to preserve the mulch layer. Watering is carried out every 3-4 days, pouring 5 liters of settled water under the bush. Before pouring out the water, the mulch is pushed aside, then the trunk circle is again covered with it. With frequent rains, the frequency of watering is adjusted based on the condition of the soil.

In order for the transplanted gooseberry bush to overwinter without loss, the trunk circle is covered with a thick layer of sawdust. In regions with cold winters, the base of the bush is covered with dry leaves. With the onset of spring, the layer of insulation is removed.

Possible errors and their consequences

Preliminary digging of bushes. The roots dry out very quickly without soil, and the plant does not take root well in a new place, it often gets sick. If this happens, the bushes are immersed in a tank with lukewarm water for several hours.

Digging a hole on the day of transplant. The soil does not have time to compact, which is fraught with excessive deepening of the root collar. In this case, when planting, the bush is fixed with auxiliary means so that the root collar is at ground level. During backfilling, pay attention to the fact that a sufficient amount of compacted soil mixture gets under the base of the bush. Adding mineral fertilizers to the soil on the day of planting. It is generally not recommended to do this, and if granules and dry mixtures have been added unknowingly, the soil is replaced. Autumn transplant practically does not harm the plant.

A gardener who knows when and how to transplant gooseberries in the fall, choose the right place for the plant and prepare it for planting, can count on full, quick adaptation and excellent harvest berries already in the next season.

It often happens that when planting young gooseberry bushes, gardeners do not take into account how large a thin twig will grow. As a result, after a few years, the plantations are woven into impenetrable thickets. It becomes clear that there is a transplant ahead. We will tell in the article how the gooseberry is transplanted in the spring, what rules the gardeners need to follow.

When is it better to transplant gooseberries

For gooseberries, the best season is autumn. The shrub prepares for winter, all processes in the plant's body slow down, so the stress from a change of residence is less painful. Unfortunately, not everything depends on the gardener. Sometimes nature radically disrupts seasonal plans. For example, in the fall, the event was not crowned with success due to early frosts.

Willy-nilly, the transplant is postponed to the spring. This is not the best time for the gooseberry; it is one of the first to bloom in the garden. When the buds have already burst, it is too late to disturb the bush, root system starts to grow and becomes extremely vulnerable. So you have to keep watch so as not to miss the right moment... If there is no other way out, then you need to save the gooseberry in a "sleepy" state, until the sap flow has begun.

It is important to do everything as correctly as possible in order to minimize injury to the shrub, especially the roots.

Methods for transplanting gooseberry bushes

In horticulture, plants are planted and propagated in two ways:

1. with a lump;
2. in the form of seedlings.

A seedling is considered woody plant with an open root system, that is, one that was dug up and shaken off the soil from the roots. Such bushes cannot be stored for a long time and they are difficult to take root, because they are seriously disturbed. For a gooseberry, a transplant in this form is possible only in the fall, in the spring it simply does not have time to adapt. If you still have to do this in the spring, then it is better to choose a planting with a lump of soil.

Sequence of work during transplantation

1. Before you start digging a bush, evaluate it appearance and condition. The thickened plant must be thinned out by removing dry, old and broken branches. Young shoots that remain are pruned by one third. This is necessary in order to balance the crown with the root system. And it will become easier to manage such a bush.

   Before transplanting, old shoots are removed from the gooseberry, the remaining ones are shortened.

2. It is important to form an earthen lump correctly. It will keep the roots from damage. Thus, the plant will receive minimal stress during transplanting. To do this, at a distance of 30 cm from the base of the bush, soil is dug in in the form of a ring.
3. Clay and loamy soil keeps its shape well and allows you to take out a bush with a lump and transfer it to a new place. But if the soil is loose, the sidewalls are wrapped in a dense cloth and tied tightly. For this purpose, burlap, agrofibre, geotextile, etc. are suitable.
4. The bottom of the prepared coma is separated from the ground with a shovel, if necessary, support is placed and removed from the pit.
5. The resulting structure is carefully transferred to a new location.
6. By this time, the landing pit is ready. Its size is 2 times larger than the diameter of the coma in width and depth.
7. Nutrient soil is poured at the bottom of the pit and watered for compaction.
8. After the water is completely absorbed, it will be seen whether you need to add more. It is important to achieve such a level that, when planting, the earthen lump is 5 cm below the edge of the pit. This is the best position for rooting gooseberries.

Requirements for soil and fertilizing

When the bush is installed, sprinkle it with a vegetable mixture. The composition of the herbal mixture is shown in the table:

Advice#1. If the soil for planting is heavy, coarse-grained is added to it river sand... Loose soil compresses well and does not need a baking powder.

For berry bushes the acidity of the soil is important. If the pH is less than 6, the harvest will be modest, the berries are small and sour. When landing, this indicator is optimized to a neutral reaction. For the roots to take root, they need support. Phosphorus - potassium fertilizers will come to the rescue, which contribute to the regrowth of new hairy roots.

A gooseberry transplant is a tangible trauma for the plant. He was forcibly pulled out of his familiar environment and forced to master an unfamiliar place.

You can use other rooters - "Heteroauxin", "Kornevin", "Rizopon", "Agrecol". These drugs stimulate the internal strength of the plant for survival. The space between the lump and the pit wall is trampled down. The toe of the shoe is turned towards the bush.

After compaction of the soil, a near-trunk circle is formed. Its diameter is wider than the crown of a shrub. The height of the bulk roller is 10 - 15 cm. The final touch is watering. Water temperature - +15 0. One watering will require 30 liters (or 3 ten-liter buckets). Several approaches may be needed, but the landing must be shed carefully.

Terms of transplanting gooseberries in spring

It makes no sense to give specific dates for transplantation. It's a shame to be late, but you can't start work too early. Knowing all the subtleties earthworks, it becomes clear that the beginning of the event is impossible until the soil in the garden dries out enough to become suitable for digging. It depends on the weather conditions, after heavy snow or spring rains, the dates are postponed. If during this time the kidneys open on the gooseberry, it is better to refuse the transplant.

Sometimes a desperate situation forces the gardener to compromise the rules and transfer the shrubs at the wrong time for him. In this case, the success of the transplant depends not only on the strict implementation of all stages, but also on further care for the "traveler".

Watering the transplanted bush

Post-transplant care. Mulching

Gooseberry transplant is like surgery for a person. Of course, the lion's share of the result belongs to the correct transfer of the bush, but the rehabilitation period is also not unimportant. To preserve the results of hard work as much as possible, immediately after watering, the trunk circle is mulched. The covering material is:

• dry ground peat crumb;
• crushed rotted manure;
• sawdust (preferably deciduous trees, conifers acidify the soil);
• bark;
• chips.

Mulch protects shrubs from moisture evaporation and weeds... A layer of 10 - 15 cm allows water to pass through well, but reduces the penetration of light. Thanks to this, weeds hardly grow. This is important because some, such as wheatgrass, creeping grass, dandelions, are a serious competitor to weakened shrubs.

If some of them still manage to break through the mulch, they must be removed by the roots. The transplant rarely goes perfectly, often some branches break, it has not yet come off, but it will not take root anymore. They need to be cut off so as not to be taken away nutrients whole shoots.

Mulching the bush in late spring

Fertilizing with mineral fertilizers

The gooseberry takes about 21 to 30 days to take root. You can be sure of this when the first leaves appear from the buds. If they continue to turn green, then the transplant was successful and after another two weeks the first feeding can be done. Now, nitrogen fertilizers are needed to help the growth of stems and leaves.

Tip # 2.Take your time to apply nitrogen fertilizer immediately after the transplant. It is used when the plant is rooted. There is no point in stimulating the growth of green mass until the gooseberry has taken root.

In the spring, the "program" of the plant is aimed at the formation of young shoots and leaves. During this period, enhanced nutrition is needed for all plants, especially those transplanted. Nitrogen is required the most. It promotes the growth of young cells. Nitrogen salts dissolve well and are quickly washed out of the soil, and therefore they are used more than other fertilizers.

Top dressing with organic fertilizers

From organic fertilizers nitrogen is rich in fresh poultry manure, but use it in pure form it is impossible, the plant will get burned or die altogether. The people say: "It will burn!" To prevent this from happening, the droppings should be dissolved in water and kept for a week. The infusion is used for watering 1 ten-liter bucket in one hole. Remove the mulch before fertilizing.

It is better to feed the transplanted gooseberry with liquid products, regardless of whether they are mineral or organic. Before applying top dressing, the bush is watered. Fertilizer is evenly applied along the perimeter of the trunk circle, it is here that the young overgrown roots are located.

Complex specialized mineral fertilizer "Berry bushes"

Effective microorganisms are a good ally of organic fertilizers, with their participation the processes of soil enrichment occur much faster. For example, the formation of humus from plant residues occurs in nature for 2 - 3 years. In the presence of "Emochek", the process takes 2 - 3 months.

The peculiarity of the soil microflora is such that it is activated at a positive temperature of at least + 12 0, so you should not use them immediately after transplanting, if it took place in early April. Microflora is never applied if mineral fertilizer has been used. Chemicals kill live crops and mineralize the soil. You will have to choose between synthesized fertilizers and organic substances.

Summer care of shrubs in the garden

The main task in the summer is watering. If there is no rain, then the transplanted gooseberry is watered twice a week until the end of June. In the middle of summer, the interval can be increased to two weeks. In hot weather, it is necessary to irrigate not only the soil, but also the crown of the bush. This procedure is called sprinkling. The plant "breathes" the entire surface of its leaves and stems.

Drought narrows the tissues, and the air does not penetrate well into the cells. Water cools the crown and relaxes the cell membrane. Watering or sprinkling gooseberries can only be done in the morning or in the evening. In the scorching sun, drops of water in flight turn into "boiling water" and burn the leaves.

The end of June is the time for summer feeding. It is often missed, giving preference to spring and autumn. This is correct if the plant is doing well. The transplanted gooseberry can be supported with a complex mineral fertilizer for berry bushes, in which potassium predominates. It helps the leaves to cope better with drought. Potassium salts protect the cell wall, preserving the water supply. This allows the plant to evaporate less moisture.

Fertilizers can be applied only in the morning or in the evening after watering.

Preparing for fall and winter

The final water-charging irrigation is carried out when the average daily temperature is +8 0. One bush will need 50 liters of water. At first glance, too much, but it is worth remembering that the next irrigation will be the melted snow. And nobody canceled the water cycle in nature in winter. Dry soil quickly freezes, which means that the plant may suffer.

It is important to prepare the root system for winter. Phosphate fertilizers will help to strengthen it. The rates of application of phosphorus fertilizers are shown in the table:

After watering and fertilizing, the trunk circle is protected with a covering material:

• dry lawn grass;
• mown hay, preferably without seeds;
• sawdust;
• leaves of healthy plants.

The gooseberry crown hibernates well and does not require shelter. If you follow simple recommendations, the transplanted gooseberry will successfully survive the cold and will delight in the spring with healthy berries.

Ripe gooseberries

Serious mistakes when transplanting gooseberries in spring

Mistake # 1. Sometimes an adult gooseberry is transplanted like a seedling.

Shrubs with open roots take root much worse. An earthen ball greatly increases the chances of survival.

Mistake # 2. Rooters are often neglected by gardeners.

Experts have developed these drugs to help the plant with planting and transplanting. Even in a perfect coma, the roots are damaged in order for the young to grow back, they need the support that the rooters provide.

Mistake number 3. Cold water can be one of the reasons for the death of gooseberries.

You can often hear bewilderment about feeling unwell transplanted gooseberry. We did everything right, looked after carefully, watered generously, and the bush disappeared. Probably the reason lies in the temperature of the water. For watering gooseberries, you need + 18 0 - + 25 0. If the source is a deep artesian well, the water from it is “ice” for the bush. Especially when the soil heats up like a frying pan during the day. Such temperature drops for gooseberries, and for other plants, are fatal.

For various reasons, you have to transplant gooseberries to summer cottage: overgrown bushes, initially the wrong place or the allocation of territory for construction. Sometimes you have to completely remove all the bushes, sending them to a new place of residence. It is important to adhere to certain rules so that the plants take root faster.

When to transplant

Gooseberry transplant can be done in spring or fall. Spring replanting is less desirable because:

• the plant "wakes up" very quickly after winter dormancy, in this regard, it is difficult to find the optimal time for the procedure, because the procedure must be carried out before the start of sap flow;
• during the period of bud formation, it is undesirable to injure the roots of the gooseberry, since the main forces of the plant are directed to the development of the upper part, and not to strengthening the underground.

As a result, the transplanted bush adapts slowly, develops poorly, and the quality of the crop falls.

In the summer, it is also undesirable to transplant the gooseberry, because at this time the green mass is growing, the damaged roots will adapt for a long time.

It is better to give preference to the autumn procedure, because:

• the bush has already completed fruiting, so all forces will be directed precisely to strengthening the root system, and not the development of the upper part;
• he gradually passes into a stage of rest, so he can easily adapt to new conditions;
• replanting gooseberries in the fall is much easier than in the spring.

It is better to replant the gooseberry bushes in the fall after the foliage has fallen off. Optimal timing transplantation of culture to a new place - September-early October. A month and a half is quite enough for the bush to strengthen before the onset of frost.

Choosing a place for transplanting gooseberries

The correct site is a kind of guarantee that the bush will not only take root, but also increase fruiting. When choosing a place, you need to take into account the following nuances:

• currants and raspberries will not be the best neighbors or predecessors, because they have common pests and diseases with gooseberries that can be inherited;
• you can transplant gooseberries after potatoes, legumes and beets, clover or lupine;
• the culture loves sunlight and humidity, however, wetlands with stagnant water should be avoided: in such conditions, a fungus develops well, against which many varieties of gooseberries do not protective immunity;
• the place must be sheltered from the winds.

An important role is played by the type of soil on which the culture will grow. It must have the following characteristics:

1. Ease. Gooseberries grow well on loam. Heavy soil can be lightened by adding sand and peat, and it is advisable to mix clay into too light soil.
2. Weak acidity. To check it, put a little currant or cherry leaves in a container, pour boiling water over them (0.5 l), cover. When the water cools down, a lump of test soil is sent into it. If the water remains green, then the acidity is normal, if it turns red, it is acidic, and blue color indicates insufficient acidity. You can lower the acidity by adding lime or dolomite flour.
3. Fertility. So that the bush can receive from the soil the nutrients it needs to recuperate and develop.

Having picked up the site, they dug it up and clean it, removing all plant debris, mark the planting sites. After that, go directly to the procedure.

How to transplant gooseberries

There are two ways to transplant a gooseberry bush: together with an earthen clod or a seedling.

Planting a bush with a lump

Before planting, all old and excess shoots are cut out from an adult gooseberry. As a result, no more than 7 of the youngest and healthiest branches should remain. They are shortened by 1/3.

Now you can dig out the bush. For this:

• dig it around in a circle at a distance of about 30 cm;
• chop through thick roots extending further;
• carefully remove the bush from the ground with a shovel and lay it on a film so that it can be transferred to a new place.

When transplanting a large gooseberry bush, the diameter of the part to be dug is determined by the size of the crown and taken out very carefully so as not to damage the numerous roots.

Further actions are carried out in stages:

1. Pit preparation. It is dug out about half a meter deep and slightly exceeds the diameter of the bush. Several buckets of water are poured into it.
2. Installation of a bush.
3. Filling the voids with a mixture of earth and compost.
4. Compaction of the soil.
5. Abundant watering of shrubs fixed in the ground.
6. Backfilling with dry soil and mulching.

If a massive gooseberry transplant is planned, then it is important to consider the following:

• the site for planting is prepared in advance, holes can be dug just before disembarkation, but it is better to outline their place in advance;
• shrubs are planted at a distance of 1.5-2 m;
• 1.3-1.5 m are left between the rows.
• transplant the bushes one at a time into separate holes;
• if the diameter of the dug hole is small, then it is increased.

Using the transshipment method, you can transplant a small plant at any time (except for winter, of course). You only need to dig in a section slightly exceeding the size of the crown, so that when digging up, damage the root system as little as possible. Further - by general scheme... In August, very small gooseberry shoots can be transplanted in a similar way.

Planting a seedling

The main difference between the seedling is the root system cleared of soil. That is why they cannot be stored for too long, and they adapt to new conditions for a long time, because their roots were injured during digging and cleaning. For the spring planting of gooseberries, this option is definitely not suitable, since the roots will not have time to adapt before the start of sap flow.

For planting, take a young bush (no older than two years), on which there are at least three main roots about 15 cm long. The adventitious roots must also be developed. The aerial part consists of two shoots about 40 cm long, freed from leaves.

Preparing a gooseberry seedling for transplanting consists in removing unhealthy roots and stimulating the entire root system in a specially prepared chatterbox (1 kg of clay and black soil, a bag of Kornevin and 6 g of Aktara are taken for 3 liters of water).

Transplanting gooseberries in the fall to a new place with seedlings is similar to the previous method:

1. Prepare the pit.
2. A small mound of earth is poured into it.
3. A seedling is installed on it vertically or slightly at an angle so that the root collar is deepened by 7-10 cm.
4. Holding the trunk, they cover the soil, periodically compact it. At the same time, the bush is shaken a little so that the earth fills all the internal voids.
5. Spill and mulch, cut the twigs to the lower bud.
6. For the winter, the seedlings are covered with sawdust.

Caring for gooseberries after transplanting consists in timely watering. Before the procedure, the mulch is removed, and after moistening, it is returned under the bush. You do not need to cover the gooseberries for the winter. It is enough just to insulate with sawdust.

Spring does not count best time for transplanting gooseberries. In the fall, there is more time for the event, and the weather conditions are more favorable to both planting and transplanting, however, if you do not miss the moment and observe all the details, the bush will not suffer and will yield as usual.

Possible reasons for the transplant

A gooseberry transplant in the spring may be required in the following cases:

• when redeveloping a site;
• when the berry thickens, when the distance between the rows and bushes was initially incorrectly calculated;
• when moving (when you want to take your favorite variety to a new place of residence);
• with a lack of sunlight (neighboring trees have grown, new buildings have appeared on the site);
• if in the fall the planting was not thought out (the site was in the shade, wet, not blown out).

On a note. Bushes up to 5 years of age lend themselves best to transplanting. Therefore, if a transplant is ripe, do not delay until the bush is hopelessly outdated.

Spring transplant dates

In different climatic conditions gooseberry transplant times will vary. There is only one principle: do this procedure as soon as the earth warms up so much that it can be dug. In the southern regions, this is the end of February, beginning of March. In the north - late March, early April. If the buds have begun to bloom, it means that the roots have woken up and are vulnerable to manipulation and it is better to postpone the transplant until the fall.

The transplant must be done before the start of sap flow. Only in this case, the bush will well tolerate moving to a “new place of residence”.

On a note. When the gooseberry bush has already "woken up", you should not touch it, but postpone the transplant until autumn. As a last resort - to perform not a transfer, but a "transshipment" with big lump land.

The principle of selection of planting material

An ideal transplant bush looks like this:

• age from 2 to 5 years;
• the kidneys have not yet begun to grow;
• there are 3 or more powerful roots at least 15 cm each;
• adventitious roots are well developed;
• the aerial part has two or more strong shoots 35-40 cm.

The younger the bush, the easier it will tolerate a transplant. You should not transplant bushes older than 5-6 years, as it will be difficult for them to adapt to a new place.

On a note. There is no point in replanting bushes affected by diseases or pests. They will not become healthier, they will transfer diseases to a new habitat. It is not a fact that weakened plants will survive. Time will be lost and the work of the gardener will be lost.

Step-by-step instructions for transplanting

There are several steps involved in a gooseberry transplant that cannot be ignored. Compliance with all aspects will save time in the future for caring for the transplanted plant.

Seat selection

A sunny area, protected from drafts and northerly winds, is the best place for transplanting gooseberries. It is normal for the sun's rays to hit the plant for at least 5-6 hours a day.

Usually they choose a place near the fence or outbuildings. Gooseberries respond poorly to waterlogged conditions. If on personal plot high standing groundwater, you need to look for a hill.

The soil should be light and fertile. Excessive acidity is easily removed with lime, chalk, dolomite flour... Clay soil is improved by adding sand or peat. It's good if potatoes grew on the site before, legumes or beets.

On a note. In order to avoid the transfer of diseases, it is not recommended to plant gooseberries in the area where a currant berry was laid or old gooseberry bushes grew.

Cooking holes

The site is freed from weeds, roots, debris. Digging the planting hole in advance, most likely, will not work. In the spring, after the ground is pierced with a shovel's bayonet, every day is dear. Ideally, if the planting holes are dug in the fall.

Required dimensions:

• you should maintain a distance of 1 meter to the fence and 3 meters to the construction;
• the optimal distance between bushes is 1.5 m, between rows - 2 m;
• the size of the hole depends on the bush, while the depth is not less than 50-60 cm, the diameter of the hole should exceed the size of the root system by 1.5 times.

So that the water around the roots does not stagnate in problem areas, drainage from pebbles, crushed stone, shell rock, and dropout is placed at the bottom of the planting pit.

Fertile upper layer mixed with rotted manure, wood ash... For each hole, you must add at least 10 kg. organics and 2-3 glasses of ash.

On a note. It will not be superfluous to make mineral fertilizer(100 grams of superphosphate) between the drainage and fertile layers.

Gooseberry preparation

The bush is dug up, examined. Diseased roots and branches are cut with pruning shears. The tips of the roots are carefully cut off by 3-5 mm with a sharp secateurs.

Next, you need to bring the aboveground part in line with the underground in size. To do this, the shoots are shortened, usually by a third, leaving 7-8 buds. it optimal size in order for the plant to undergo transplantation normally.

If it is far from the transplantation site, the roots are packed in polyethylene for transportation.

On a note. The adaptation is improved by the following procedure, carried out before planting: lower the root part of the gooseberry for a few minutes in a clay mash, to which a bag of Kornevin and 6 grams of Aktara have been added.

How to transplant

The transplant algorithm is as follows:

• a hill of prepared fertile soil is poured into the planting hole (on top of the drainage);
• install the bush, supporting it vertically (you can bend it down, deepening the root collar by 8-10 cm);
• fall asleep with prepared fertile soil, shaking the bush to fill the voids, crushing each layer;
• pour out a bucket of warm water;
• from above they fall asleep with mulch.

On a note. Humate (100 ml per 10 liters of water) can be added to the water for irrigation. This will improve the survival rate of the plant during a prolonged cold spring.

Post-transplant care

Transplanted bushes should be watered abundantly at least once every 2 weeks. It is imperative to mulch the soil in the near-trunk circle with a thick layer of mulch so that the earth does not dry out, the "new settler" is not afraid of temperature changes.

Weather conditions are of great importance. The transplanted plant is very dangerous spring frosts, since the natural process of preparation for fruiting is disrupted.

In the future, gooseberries require the usual care: loosening the soil, weeding weeds and timely treatment from pests and diseases.

If the spring transplant is done according to the rules, the plant will avoid stress, further growth and development will go on as usual.