The roof covered with bituminous tiles is aesthetic, durable and easy to use. Its great advantage lies in the possibility of self-assembly. There is nothing difficult in how to cover the roof with a soft roof with your own hands, since the weight of the material is small, installation is carried out on adhesive base with additional fixation nails.

Currently, this type of coverage has become popular among property owners. A do-it-yourself soft roofing made of bituminous tiles has a very attractive appearance, it is distinguished by increased moisture resistance and a long period of operation.

There is a self-adhesive layer on the back of this roofing material. Thanks to its presence, the arrangement of the roof from soft tiles it is possible to do it with your own hands in the absence of appropriate skills.

Features of flexible roofing material

Soft tiles are tiles that have a curly edge. It is made of fiberglass, which is impregnated with polymer-modified petroleum bitumen. When arranging the roof, the material is laid with an overlap so that an imitation of a shingle covering is created, laid out from wooden chocks.

The fiberglass available in the composition of such a tile can be ordinary or reinforced polyester. During the manufacturing process, the material with outside covered with a special dressing made of basalt or stone chips, due to which the roof has a rough surface and a certain color.

The advantages of shingles include:

1. Aesthetic appearance... Since the material is produced by a variety of color solutions and forms, it is possible to give the house a harmonious image.
2. Long term service... A soft roof can be used for at least 70 years and during this period the costs of its installation will pay off in full.
3. Flexibility... Elastic products allow you to arrange a soft roof complex shapes, with many decorative elements.
4. Resistant to adverse weather conditions... The soft roof is able to withstand the effects of ultraviolet radiation, precipitation and other factors environment while maintaining performance.

The technology of laying tiles is simple and therefore even a home craftsman can easily equip a roof from a soft roof with his own hands for country cottage, country house, gazebos and other buildings.

Installation of a soft roof

Before you do soft roof with your own hands, you need to make sure there is a solid foundation. According to the installation technology of this material, work can be done under specific weather conditions.

1. When installing at an air temperature of less than plus 5 degrees, the self-adhesive layer on the back of the tile cannot melt on its own. To do this forcibly, you will need to use a construction hair dryer or a gas burner. But the melting of bitumen will affect the timing of the installation of a soft roof.
2. When this material is laid at a temperature exceeding the 25-degree mark, the self-adhesive layer begins to melt strongly and flow down the slope. At high temperature conditions deformation of the roofing occurs.
3. If you carry out installation work in conditions high humidity, this will negatively affect the durability of the battens, rafters and the tiles themselves due to decay.

The manufacturer's instructions for installing a soft roof with their own hands prescribe that this should be done exclusively at an air temperature of 5 to 15 degrees, when the weather is dry.

DIY roof lathing

First of all, you need to make a reliable crate. According to the installation technology soft coating, there must be a solid foundation that will give the soft roofing the required strength and rigidity.

The presence of the crate guarantees an even distribution of the load on the rafters, therefore it is made of three layers:

1. Counter grilles... It is built from wooden blocks 3–4 centimeters thick and fixed on top of the waterproofing along the rafter frame legs. This layer serves to create an air gap between the covering and the rafters.
2. Sparse crate. This detail bases for soft material are made from edged boards measuring 20x150 millimeters. The elements are fixed perpendicular to the bars of the counter-lattice with an interval of 30-50 centimeters.
3. Solid lathing... It is built from moisture resistant plywood, edged boards or OSB boards. They are laid solid with a small gap equal to 1-3 millimeters, which serves to compensate for the thermal expansion of the lathing.

Before laying a soft roof, wood elements must be made smooth so that they do not damage the shingles. It is better to use coniferous material with 20% moisture. To prevent the tree from decaying, the products must be treated with antiseptic compounds. To eliminate the risk of fire, the crate is impregnated with fire-resistant preparations.

Laying underlay carpet

There is a certain order of how to properly lay a soft roof. It is mounted on a solid crate. Before laying the soft roof, a lining bitumen carpet resistant to mechanical stress is placed on top of the base. It protects the roof structure from leaks and damage.

According to the technology of installation of the lining carpet:

• with a roof slope of less than 15-18 degrees, it is laid out over the entire area of ​​the slopes with a 15 - 20 cm overlap, so that moisture does not linger in the event of snow melting;
• if the angle of inclination is more than 20 degrees, the lining is laid exclusively in places where precipitation can collect - such additional waterproofing used to protect the joints of soft roofs on slopes with vertical surface, valleys and skates;
• roofing material cannot be used for lining, since it is fragile and will not last long.

In the opinion of professionals, products recommended by manufacturers should be used as a backing layer, since it is guaranteed to be compatible with the purchased tiles.

How to cover the roof with soft tiles

Installation should be done when it is calm and dry outside. When laying on a previously operated rafter frame, first check the condition of the wooden elements and change those that are deformed or rotted.

Installation work is performed in a specific order:

1. Using a previously prepared drawing of a soft roof, mark the surface of the slope with horizontal stripes with chalk, noting the location of the rows of tiles.
2. Laying begins from the bottom of the slope, fixing the roofing with special nails. If the fixing is made thanks to a self-adhesive layer, it must be removed from the tile protective film and press the product to the base. Nails are driven in at least 2.5 centimeters from the edge, flush with the surface of the tiles.
3. The next row begins to be done on the left side. Cut off 143 millimeters from the tile to the left, displacing the pattern diagonally.
4. To start laying the third row, a fragment of 286 millimeters in length is removed from the product from the left edge so that the pattern of the material moves in a diagonal direction.
5. After the completion of the work, the ridge and valley junction nodes with a vertical surface are made out with a ridge element.

To ensure the correct functioning of the roof made of bituminous tiles and to prevent the "greenhouse effect", a ventilation system should be installed and thereby exclude rotting of the rafter structure.

A roof made of soft tiles allows you to realize the most incredible architectural ideas, since such a roof can take almost any shape. Soft roofs can be laid on slopes with angles from 12 to 90 degrees. The distinguishing features of the material include low weight, good insulation performance, durability and wide choose shades and textures. Roof covering with soft tiles is carried out in several stages.

How to cover a roof with a soft roof - preparation of the base

Before the start installation works it is necessary to properly prepare the base for soft tiles.

It must necessarily meet the following requirements:

Roof preparation for soft roof - ventilation device

Ventilation is a prerequisite for a high-quality and durable roof of houses from a soft roof.

The ventilation system is necessary for:

• removal of excess moisture from the lathing, roofing material and insulation;
• airing the building;
• reducing the temperature of the structure and roof space in summer time;
• preventing ice from freezing on the roof.

To fully fulfill the above tasks, ventilation must have a fairly large gap (at least 5 cm). The roof outlet is positioned as high as possible, preferably on the ridge. The inlet is placed at the eaves.

Soft-roofed roof - underlayment construction

A reinforcing layer is almost always laid under the soft roof covering. If the slope of the roof is less than 1: 3, then a lining layer, according to existing technology installation of soft roofs, it is necessary to cover the entire area of ​​the slope. If the roof has large slope angles, then the lining layer is installed on the end parts, cornice overhangs, ridge and in the valleys.

The material is laid in layers with an overlap of 100 mm. To the base of the roof backing layer fastened with nails, with a pitch of 20 mm. All joints must be sealed with bitumen mastic.

How to cover a roof with a soft roof - eaves protection

Before installation, remove the protective film from the tiles. Then each element is glued to the base and additionally fixed with 4 nails at the perforation points. The next rows are laid with the ends of the tongues at the level of the cut of the previous row of shingles. In the valleys and at the ends, the tiles are cut along the edge and covered with bitumen mastic or K-36 glue.

The appearance on the market of roofing materials of soft tiles has significantly simplified the process of covering roofs with complex configurations. This is the only one quality material, which has flexibility and ductility, it can be used to quickly and tightly cover all types of roofs, including domed ones. At the same time, the amount of unproductive waste is minimal, which cannot be said about other roofing materials. The service life of some types of flexible shingles reaches fifty years, however, such material in cost is not much different from piece coatings of the elite segment.

The reliability and durability of a roof is equally dependent on several factors.

1. Technical characteristics of soft tiles. You should pay attention not only to the appearance, this parameter affects only the appearance of the building and has nothing to do with the durability of operation. Buyers should know what kind of substrate was used by the manufacturers, what kind of chemical composition bitumen and what is its thickness. Bitumen must necessarily be modified to increase protection against ultraviolet rays, increase in plasticity at sub-zero temperatures and resistance to mechanical stress. The base should be chosen the most durable of the polymer fibers.

   

2. The quality of the rafter system. If the structure is wobbly, has uneven planes, the bearing units do not meet the maximum loads, then the roof will not be airtight. Over time, due to numerous fluctuations, mechanical damage or delamination will appear. This applies to all roofing materials, not just soft tiles.

   

3. Professionalism of roofers. No matter how high-quality the roofing material is, the inept actions of the builders negate all its advantages. Builders should not only have an excellent knowledge of the theory, but also have a lot of practical work experience. Fake roofers can independently make decisions depending on the situation, it is impossible to foresee all the problems in advance. In addition, responsible craftsmen will never deviate from the recommended technology in order to save time.

   

Everything roofing on laying soft tiles consist of several stages, the high-quality implementation of each of them affects the reliability and durability of the roof.

Depending on the complexity of the rafter system and the purpose of the building, some steps can be skipped. The table gives the maximum complete list construction activities for the most difficult roofs.

Before proceeding with the installation work, you should prepare the tools and draw up a preliminary action plan.

Today, soft roofs not only occupy a leading position in the market, but have become a real discovery for designers and architects. A variety of styles, individual solutions and the possibility of easy implementation on a complex roof structure - what more could you ask for? The main thing is to achieve absolute tightness between the shingles, on which the durability of the entire coating depends. And the installation of shingles itself will be within your power, believe me, even if this is the first time you come across this type of work!

Therefore, if you carefully read our tips, then with the help of one more person you will cover an even larger roof. The fact is that even in the factory, shingles are prepared for gluing, applying a special solution to the bottom layer, and even making four holes so that you know exactly where to drive in the roofing nails. And now we will tell you about all the intricacies of working with a soft roof.

Once the roof frame is ready, install the vapor barrier as solid carpet with inside roofs, no gaps, and secure to the rafters with wooden planks. You will then attach the inner lining of the attic to the same slats.

Now take care of the vapor barrier. If the attic is cold, then all moisture will come out of it by itself, with the help of natural ventilation... But in the case of a residential attic, vapor barrier is necessary. For this purpose, an additional bar is stuffed on the rafters, rolled out vapor barrier film with an overlap and glued with special tape (the usual one does not fit!).

Next, from the outside on the vapor barrier film, lay the selected insulation, preferably in a ragged way. Cover the top with a windproof membrane and secure with bars, which will also later serve to create ventilation ducts.

As a result, you should have such a "puff cake" as roofers like to call it:

We have prepared for you detailed master class how and in what order everything should happen:

As you can see from the above photos, it was not difficult to lay flexible sheets on the expelled lucarnes!

Step 2. Installation of solid flooring

For the installation of shingles, a rigid solid base is required. Therefore, mount a solid carpet of plywood or OSB boards on the prepared crate, with a gap of 3-5 mm, which is necessary for deformation from temperature and moisture, and fix it to the rafters with self-tapping screws.

The main requirement for the base for shingles is a flat area and the ability to fix the shingles with nails. For this, sheets of glued wood shavings like plywood or tongue-and-groove boards, laid back to back, are suitable. Only the board should be as dry as possible so that waves do not form during drying. But it is a big mistake to use only the crate itself for a soft roof, albeit more frequent, because in the first season the entire roof will simply go in waves. And photos with such problems become a real asset for manufacturers who scare their customers with such mistakes.

Once the base is ready, reinforce the eaves with metal strips. These are laid with an edge on the edge of the base and fixed with roofing nails, with a step of 150 mm, in a checkerboard pattern:

Step 3. Select and install the underlay

Now is the time to take care of the waterproofing. It is needed in difficult places such as abutments, joints and valleys. Here the canvases are laid from the bottom up with an overlap of 10 cm in the longitudinal direction and 15 cm in the transverse direction:

We recommend that you use a specially designed underlay, not roofing felt or similar material, as is sometimes done. The fact is that they also have a finishing roofing - different terms operation, and even the conditions of use!

And such an attempt to save money will soon lead to the swelling of the entire roofing carpet. In addition, no manufacturer will give a guarantee for a roof that has been pieced together with third-party materials.

By the way, until recently in Russia lining carpets were practically not used, and even today many people try to cheat. This is logical, because by the time the roof is built, it often turns out that the planned budget for the whole house is not enough, and you have to make concessions. But, if you want to install shingle roofing and forget about it for many decades, then do not give up such an important element.

There is always a risk that water will penetrate into the under-roof space, especially in such difficult places as bypassing chimneys or contact with an installed antenna. There are also emergency situations when strong wind lifts shingles during a downpour.

Moreover, it is not difficult to choose a roofing carpet, because the same requirements are imposed on it as for tiles: to be resistant to temperature extremes, to ensure reliable waterproofing and serve for a long time. A modern market provides many options, both imported and domestic. Moreover, many factories in Russia today operate on European equipment and are not inferior to foreign counterparts in terms of product quality.

In general, lining carpets are of two types: self-adhesive and with mechanical fixation. Self-adhesive ones are laid mainly in valleys, and mechanical ones are rolled out on the remaining roof area and fixed with galvanized nails:

Here is the installation process for a conventional roofing carpet, which will need to be fixed with bituminous mastic:

Here's an example of working with a more modern self-adhesive roofing carpet:

So, for a valley, a self-adhesive waterproofing carpet is ideal. And, if the slopes have an inclination of more than 18 degrees, then consider laying the carpet in all places of possible leaks, and these are: ribs, ridges, gable overhang and all the outlets of roofing elements.

But on a roof with a slope of 12 to 18 degrees, you will need a continuous waterproofing carpet. Prior to that, we recommend placing a self-adhesive bitumen-polymer material, for example, "Barrier", on the eaves overhangs, and at the same time strive to ensure that the carpet itself is without overlap - continuous along its entire length:

Also pre-insulate ventilation passages, areas around roof windows and chimneys. Before installing the shingles, coat all the pass-throughs with your own hands with bitumen mastic - it's not difficult.

Before you start installing shingles, you will also need to reinforce the eaves. They need to be fixed with roofing nails in increments of 10-15 cm.Here is an informative video lesson from the company on this topic:

Step 4. Selecting fasteners

To secure the shingles, you will need special nails with wide heads. It will be extremely important to nail them so that the head is in the same plane with the surface of each shingle, and at the same time does not "cut" into it. In addition, nails for soft tiles must be galvanized.

Nails for the installation of soft tiles are divided into the following types:

• Roofing nails... They have such a sharpened point that when they are buried in the bituminous layer, they do not violate its integrity. Such nails are produced galvanized or without a protective layer at all. Of course, unprotected ones are the cheapest, but at the same time they are not at all practical and quickly begins to rust. These are only suitable for assembling furniture or building temporary huts.
• Rusty nails... On the working rod, they have special teeth that are directed towards the cap. Such ones are not easily hammered into wood, although it is quite difficult to pull them out even with a nail puller. And most often, in the process of dismantling, the cap is simply cut off from the brushed nails - and that's it. They fix the roofing so tightly that they are more often used for slate than for soft roofing.
• Cliff nails have longitudinal grooves and lintels on the working rod, and they are less suitable for soft roofs.

We recommend that you take galvanized flanged ones with a head diameter of 8-9 millimeters as roofing nails specifically for flexible shingles. They also produce special nails for bituminous shingles, and they differ from standard counterparts.

These are made from durable steel wire, which is automatically cut into equal pieces, then the workpiece is sharpened on one side, and riveted into the shape of a hat on the other. If you find these on sale, you can purchase.

But it is important in this case that the nails themselves comply with GOST 4030-63: the diameter of the rod is 3.5 mm, and the diameter of the head is at least 8 mm. The thing is that in working with specifically bituminous shingles, the most unpleasant moment is when nails, with the next blow, simply sink into the bituminous layer and violate the integrity of the coating. But the extended cap will not be able to “sink” so easily. And the larger it is, the better it will be to hold the shingle, which is why high-quality shingle nails resemble a pushpin. Moreover, for one-layer and two-layer shingles, nails with parameters 30x3.5 mm will be needed, and for three-layer - 45x3.5 mm.

By the way, some would-be builders do not understand why it is impossible to just warm up the sheets of soft tiles and stick them on the flooring, why exactly nails and all the fuss associated with them? In fact, the use of open fire on such a roof is prohibited due to elementary considerations. fire safety... So forget about this risky idea and rent an automatic device.

Step 5. Placing the starting strip

And now we turn directly to the installation of shingles. It starts from the starting strip. As such, you can take:

• a pattern from ordinary tiles, for example, shingles with cut petals, if you work with the collections “ Tango" or " Trio»;
• universal skating cornice shingles, especially if you work with " Chord», « Sonata" or " Jazz».

If it is more convenient for you to start with eaves, lay them on top of the metal strip, slightly stepping back from the fold. Next, nail it down, but keep in mind that the longer and steeper the slope, the greater the indentation from the bend should be:

This is how laying the starting strip looks like in practice:

Step 6. Installation of different types of shingles

Now we unpack the shingles. The main requirement for their installation is dry, warm weather, because it is undesirable to lay bitumen shingles at temperatures below + 5 ° С, because in areas where it will need to be bent, it will be difficult to do without cracks.

If you still have to fix the shingles in such conditions, then prophylaxis will be needed: the sheets are heated construction hairdryer and folded on metal pipe about 10 cm in diameter. But it’s better not to do that.

Count up required amount shingles are not difficult: take one sheet, measure the area that will be visible, find out the area of ​​the slope and divide the second into the first. Here is some valuable advice on how to calculate and prepare shingles for installation:

Of course, if you have a diamond eye, then you can do with detailed calculations, but the marking lines serve as excellent guides along which you can align the tiles both vertically and horizontally. Especially if you are installing a soft roof for the first time.

Believe me, tearing off a few sheets and reattaching them to fix the joint is not the most fun thing. And absolutely without marking, if some element is cut into the roof or the general geometry of the slope is broken. In this matter, you will be helped by tools such as a skip, a plumb line and a level.

As we have already said, usually for convenience, ready-made shingles are marked with small holes in the factory, so that you know exactly where to drive nails. If there are none (for example, in the cheapest collections), then just step back from the edge 2-3 cm and be guided by this illustration:

In each case, the place of driving the nail will directly depend on the cut shape of the tiles themselves. It is only important that each nail stitches both the lower and upper edges of all sheets at the same time, and if you are laying shingles on slopes with an angle of 45 °, then top corners the shingle also needs to be additionally fixed.

The whole procedure for laying shingles is not complicated, here are the instructions for the process itself:

1. Mix a few sticks of shingles prior to installation to minimize shade variation. The fact is that even in one mail the color may differ so much that you will be surprised, and such incidents will be very noticeable on the roof.
2. If the slope is long enough, start from the center of the roof and level it horizontally. And the second row - already shifting the shingles to the left or right by half the sheet. Move the third and all subsequent rows relative to the previous one, too, half a petal, to the left or to the right, depending on which direction you chose initially.
3. You need to start laying the tiles on a slope with a smaller slope, while you should make an approach to a steeper slope of at least 30 cm.On a steeper slope, it is recommended to beat off the chalk lines so as not to get lost. Now cut the shingles on a more slope along this new line, and after fixing, coat with bitumen mastic where there is no self-adhesive layer with back side.
4. Lay the shingles from the bottom up, stepping back from the edge of the drips. Here you will need to lay a special ridge-eaves tile. By the way, you can replace it with a regular one if you cut off the petals.

Now fix the shingles. An automatic tool is good for this, especially if it will work from electrical network... The main thing is that when choosing a model, take care of your own safety: the trigger mechanism should be comfortable, protected from an accidental shot and the ability to remove a stuck nail without any risk. After all, usually the hammer is more intended for small works on household, and professional roofers rarely use it.

The only point: if special roofing nails do not fit the gun, take a ready-made clip of nails with a wide flat head. They differ in that they are interconnected by a thin wire. This tape is inserted into the chamber and the nail is fed one by one. It is much more convenient to work at height: you do not need to look for clusters, you do not need to expose your fingers to the blow, and the fastening itself will be of better quality than when you are already too tired on the 501st nail. The main thing is to observe the basic technology: the nail must be driven in strictly perpendicular to the plane of the shingle.

Remember, if some shingle was not securely fixed, then over time it will loosen its mount and fly off with a gust of wind. And the nail itself, lifted from the wind, will tear the leaf, loosening the neighboring one. And all this will lead to a leak and necessary repairs... Of course, it will not be possible to completely do without problem areas, which is why a periodic inspection of such a roof is needed.

Now let's consider the features of the installation of shingles different types... So, from a single-layer shingle, before installation, you need to remove the protective film, which is always located on both sides of the shingle. Why is she? The fact is that this roof covering is transported by ordinary trucks both in the heat and in the heat, but we are still talking about bitumen.

But in collections with such a cut as “ Dragon tooth», There is no film, it is only important to choose a beautiful pattern or lay it randomly, simply by mixing the shingles.

And how exactly to work with each type of shingle cutting, the following illustrations will help you:

Further, if you have to work with complex roof, you have two ways to install shingles: segmented and seamless. In the first method, divide the corner or cone into equal segments, and lay out each separately. And in this way, cover the entire roof. The seamless method is already more complicated: here it is important to make the correct marking of the ramp and navigate along it. Think and choose the one that seems more convenient to you.

Step 7. Securing the shingles in the valleys

And now - about the most problematic parts of the roof. Hollows, namely the internal bends of the roof, you can organize in two ways: open and closed, which is also called the undercut method. The main thing then is to make a triangular rail at the joints of the roof with the wall and start shingles under it.

In addition, if the wall is brick, it must be plastered and treated with a bituminous primer. The upper part of the abutment must then be closed with a metal apron, which must be fixed and brought into the grooves, and then sealed:

Step 8. Laying ridge and backbone tiles

Next, let's figure out the concepts of ridge tiles. As you might guess, these are the shingles that cover the ridge of the roof. All other tiles are called ordinary. By the way, backbone shingles are obtained when the ridge-eaves are divided into three parts, or cut out from the usual ordinary perforation method.

To correctly lay the backbone shingles, use a cord to beat off the dimensions of the future ridge - these are two strips along it, and lay the backbone shingles from the bottom up. Then fix the shingles with nails on each side and make sure that the overlap of the overlying shingles overlaps the nails by 5 cm.

Lay down ridge tile from the side that is opposite to the so-called wind rose (you can find out about this from your neighbors or from the wind map). Further - everything is the same as during the laying of the ridge. If in the right places there will be no self-adhesive layer, coat it with mastic.

Now let's move on to the ribs. Here, ordinary tiles should be cut so that a distance of 3 to 5 mm remains between adjacent slopes:

Here's another great workshop where you can look at the details of the process:

And finally finishing works... The installation of flexible tiles is always completed with the installation of a ridge aerator. To do this, a special groove is cut out along all the slopes, and an aerator is inserted into it. It is fixed with nails and covered with a special ridge tile.

Also for a soft roof, special additional elements are made - these are the lower parts of the roof passages, which are popularly called "skirts". And so that snow does not accumulate behind the ventilation and chimney pipes, especially when their cross-section exceeds 50x50 cm, it is necessary to organize a groove. In short, you need the following elements:

So, your roof is ready, and all that remains is to properly care for it. To do this, once every six months, using a soft brush, sweep all the small debris from the roof off the leaves and branches. The main thing is not to use sharp tools, because it is important not to scratch the basalt chips. And clean your gutters and funnels from time to time.

Fortunately, a shingle roof is highly maintainable: just warm up the damaged area, remove it, and install new tiles. Business of one day!

Surely, you have repeatedly noticed that many private houses are covered shingles, a noble, solid and aesthetically pleasing roofing material. You can also equip such a roof, because this coating can be laid on a roof of any complexity, the slope of which reaches 12 - 90 degrees. Bitumen is very light, which makes it easier to install a soft roof with your own hands. Today we will talk about how to cover the roof with soft tiles.

Calculation of shingles

Before buying soft tiles, you must take into account that the price soft roof will depend on the coverage area and the number of additional elements. A feature of the material that is used to organize the roof is to minimize waste during work. It is this factor that allows you to accurately calculate the roof and calculate the required amount of basic material.

Let's give an example of calculating the amount of shingles. So let gable roof has the following parameters: length is 6 meters, height - 4 meters; tilt angle - 32 degrees. Then the total area is 48 square meters (4 * 6 * 2). Keep in mind that one package of shingles is enough for 3 square meters. But be careful, as each package indicates the area to be covered. Then you need 16 packs (48/3).

Similarly, you can calculate the amount of required backing material and valley carpet. It should be noted that the technology of roofing with soft tiles is such that trimmed parts and waste will always remain. Therefore, feel free to add another 10-15% to the calculated amount. After purchasing soft tiles, it is necessary to store them in a warm, dry, shaded place, folding one by one no more than 12 packages.

Installation of lathing under the roof

In order to lay the shingles correctly, it is necessary to properly prepare the base. The soft roof can be laid on an ordinary lathing, which can be lattice or solid and is attached to the rafters. The frame is most often made of wood. If you need to arrange a lattice crate, then take boards for this.

In this case, it is advisable to use planed coniferous boards, which have a thickness of about 20-25 millimeters. To create a solid sheathing, you can use moisture resistant plywood or chipboard, grooved and edged boards. The moisture content of the material should not exceed 20% of dry weight. The material is attached to the rafters using ordinary nails or self-tapping screws.

To increase the service life of wooden elements, they must be impregnated with an antiseptic before installation. When creating the lathing, calculate in advance the step of installing the rafters and the thickness of the board used for its device. If the step is 60 centimeters, then you can use a board that has a thickness of 20 millimeters. With a rafter pitch of 90 centimeters, a board approximately 23 millimeters thick is required.

The joints of the boards must be placed in the places of the supports, and the boards must have a length of at least 2 spans between the supports. When laying lathing under a soft roof, remember that it is worth leaving a couple of millimeters between the individual materials in order to compensate for the expansion of the wood when it dries.

On the crate between the boards, a gap of 1-5 millimeters is made, between large-panel elements - in 1 - 3 millimeters. Plywood and slabs are laid on the rafters with a spacing of the seams. You may not leave such gaps if all the wood has been previously subjected to technical drying.

Installation of the underlay

After arranging the lathing under the soft roof, you need to lay a lining layer, the main purpose of which is to protect the house from moisture in case of possible leakage of flexible tiles. According to current standards, if the angle of inclination of the roof is 18 degrees or a little more, then it is possible to equip waterproofing only parallel to the end and cornice edges. It is these areas that are considered the most likely places for leaks.

Things will be different if the roof has a smaller slope angle - from 12 to 18 degrees. The installation technology of such a waterproofing layer provides for its laying over the entire roof area. This layer is mounted parallel to the eaves overhang from bottom to top with an overlap of at least 10 centimeters for transverse seams and at least 15 centimeters for longitudinal seams, fixing the edges with nails at intervals of about 20 centimeters. The seams must be sealed with glue.

To protect the edges of the roof frame structure under the soft tiles on the eaves overhangs from moisture, it is necessary to mount metal cornice strips called "drips" over the lining carpet with an overlap of at least 2 centimeters. They are nailed in a zigzag manner with special roofing nails, maintaining a step of 100 millimeters. To protect the crate, pediment strips are mounted on the end parts with the same overlap of 2 centimeters. Planks are stuffed on the eaves and ends on top of the lining layer.

If the structure has elements such as valleys, then it is necessary to lay a special carpet that matches the color of the tiles on both sides. The edges should be fixed with roofing nails, keeping an interval of 100 millimeters. After fixing, it will not be superfluous to smear the carpet along the edge with bituminous mastic.

Ventilation space arrangement

Without sufficient ventilation in the attic, the microclimate will be disturbed, humidity will increase and condensation will form. Ventilation is provided thanks to three elements: channels above the thermal insulation, an opening that serves for the flow of outside air and exhaust openings, which are located in the upper part of the roof.
If the eaves in a residential building are hemmed with siding, then soffit strips will act as a ventilation gap.

If, when installing a roof under a soft roof, the cornice is made out with clapboard, then it is customary to equip a gap between the boards. Ventilation of a roof made of flexible tiles is carried out by means of a ridge, which is usually laid on a special ribbed profile. But often its carrying capacity is not enough and it is necessary to install special ventilation elements on the roof surface.

If the slope of the roof is 15-40 degrees, then the area of ​​the ventilation space is calculated as the quotient of the total area of ​​the slopes and the coefficient of 300. And if the slope reaches 41-85 degrees, then it is calculated as the quotient of the area of ​​the soft roof and the coefficient of 600. Let the total roof area be 50 square meters, the angle of inclination is 35 degrees, and the cross-section of the ventilation element is 258 square centimeters.

The ventilation area in this case will be 0.167 square meter(50/300) or 1670 square centimeters. Then the required number of ventilation elements is five (1670/258). The number of ventilation elements that are installed on the ridge is half of their number on the roof slopes, that is, 3.

Installation of soft tiles

Manufacturers of shingles do not recommend fixing them at temperatures below plus 5 degrees, because shingles become fragile in frost and the procedure for installing a roof made of soft tiles becomes difficult, and the lack of heat affects the tightness of the joints. In winter, the joints and folds of the shingles should be heated with a building hair dryer or other device that generates a heat flux. To lay the material on the roof in the summer, it must be taken in parts, because the protective film is poorly removed from the tiles heated by the sun.

When laying shingles, roofers often make the same mistake, as a result of which the roof has a different shade in different places. Remember that tiles in different packages may not come from the same batch, but from different ones, therefore their color is different. Thus, it is necessary to use several packages of material at once so that the color of the roof turns out to be uniform.

To simplify work and ensure straight lines before covering the roof with soft tiles on the roof, a chalk marking of the slope is carried out along the lathing and lining. Horizontal lines are drawn parallel to the eaves with a step of 80 centimeters. This makes approximately 5 rows of tiles. Vertical lines are applied along the length of the ramp in 1 meter increments.

Installation of roofing from flexible tiles begins with the arrangement of the zero "cornice" row. Self-adhesive ridge-cornice shingles are glued on top of the metal strip butt-to-end. From the edge of the slope, you need to retreat 1-2 centimeters. The shingles on the other side are nailed, and the first row of ordinary flexible shingles is placed on top of the attachment point. If you did not buy ridge-eaves shingles, then you can attach simple shingles to the eaves, but without petals.

The first row of shingles begin to be laid from the center of the eaves, heading towards the ridge and gables. To move in hot weather on the roof, you need to use special manholes, otherwise they can stay on roofing shoe marks. First, remove the protective film from the back from the individual roofing tiles and glue them to the base. Also, the tile requires additional fastening.

The shingles are fastened with nails, hammering them in when laying two adjacent rows. When you hammer a nail into the first row, you will nail the second one at the same time. The fastening must not be displaced - hammer in a nail from the very edge or into the center of the petals, since the structure of a roof made of soft tiles does not allow chaotic fastening, the nail must not be deeply sunk - it is necessary that the head is located flush with the roofing.

One shingle requires approximately 4-5 nails. This is enough, since the bituminous tiles will stick together and stick to the crate under the influence of solar heat. The length of the nails is selected according to the type and thickness of the lathing. The diameter of the nail should be approximately 3.2 millimeters, the diameter of the head should be 10 millimeters.

When installing subsequent rows of tiles, remember that the lower petals of the material must correspond to the upper ones, which are located on the already nailed row. Along with this, it is customary to make a half-petal shift to the left or right.

Ridge shingles are obtained by dividing the eaves shingles into three parts according to the perforation points. Mount the ridge shingles on the roof ridge, having previously cut the shingles, while the short side should be parallel to the ridge. Drive in with four nails so that the nails are positioned under the tile to be applied with an overlap of 5 centimeters.

Correct design of abutments

In the process of installing a soft roof covering, quite often you have to face some difficulties and various objects to which the roof adjoins. Let's say the most elementary object of this type is a pipe stove heating... In the area where the pipe adjoins the roof, a gap always forms through which moisture flows.

To get rid of this disadvantage, you need to properly attach the shingles. To get started, hammer the rail at the angle between the roof surface and the chimney. It is desirable that it has a triangular shape, like an ordinary wooden plinth. Further, it is recommended to bring the shingles onto this rail and directly onto the pipe. After that, a valley carpet should be laid on top of it, starting from the chimney.

It should cover the entire channel at a height of 30 centimeters from the roof surface. After that, the lower part of the pipe with carpet and bituminous tiles is placed in a metal apron - lined with sheets of painted tin on all sides. To avoid the accumulation of snow behind the pipe, it is necessary to equip the gutter by installing a pyramid with two edges close to the pipe. Thus, both snow and rainwater, will fall on the slopes of the gutter and flow down the roof, flowing around the pipe.

Sometimes some communications need to be brought out through the roof. In such cases, it is best to use passages that are made specifically for tiles. They are attached to the base of the roof with nails. Such elements reliably protect the roof from leaks. For example, small diameter antenna passages through the roof can be made with rubber seals.

Joint sealing procedure

For sealing soft tile roofs, underlayment overlaps and ordinary bitumen shingles on end carpet, walkways ventilation system and various abutments, a special sealant is used. Immediately before applying the composition, clean the surface from loose materials, oil and dirt. On dusty and porous substrates, first apply a bituminous solution. Remember that excessive dissolution of the bitumen may occur if there is an excess of glue.

The composition is applied to one of the glued surfaces with a spatula. Maintain a layer thickness of 0.5 - 1 millimeter. The gluing width is indicated in the instructions. When gluing abutments to pipes and walls, apply sealant over the entire contact surface. Rub the seams brickwork mortar flush with the brick. The bonding process takes 1-3 minutes, depending on the air temperature. At low temperatures before applying, you need to warm up the composition.

Now you know how to cover a roof with soft tiles! In addition, you can always renew your roof with shingles without removing the old covering. Laying on top of old new soft tiles is not much different from installing from scratch. To do this, lay an inverted shingle on the protruding eaves strip and glue it, and cut the protruding part along the eaves. Next, the tiles are laid exactly on top of the previous pattern.