Before starting a conversation about the features and methods of installing glass blocks, it should be mentioned that all structures made of glass blocks are mainly decorative, soundproof, heatproof and dustproof functions and, in no case, cannot serve as walls and partitions, which will later be assigned the function of load-bearing walls.

In other words, floor slabs between the floors of the building, as well as floor beams, must absolutely not be laid on walls made of glass blocks, since walls made of glass blocks are not intended for these purposes and cannot bear a large load.

Starting our conversation with this question, we would therefore like to immediately protect you from a gross error when installing glass blocks, which can lead to very unpleasant consequences, for example, to a partial or complete collapse of your building.

Selection of tools and consumables

To successfully carry out work on the installation of glass blocks and the manufacture of structures from glass blocks of any size, complexity and variety without any difficulties, you will need a certain set of tools and specific consumables

Expendable materials:

	1. Cement mortar or dry building mixture for laying ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware, preferably frost-resistant. 2. Reinforcing rods, intended for reinforcing glass block masonry, they perform an additional fastening function when installing glass block structures in the masonry. The rods used for these purposes must necessarily be made of stainless steel or, at a minimum, must be galvanized so as not to corrode.
	3. Laying crosses They play an important role in the control of the thickness of the joints between glass blocks and are laid in each corner joint. After graduation installation works they remain inside the cement masonry and are rubbed out.
	4. Grout for joints, intended for filling the joints between glass blocks and giving them the required color, since the color range of glue solutions on which glass blocks are laid is very limited and not always acceptable in color to those glass blocks that are laid on them. To grind the joints between glass blocks, it is recommended to use a moisture-resistant grout, since it is not afraid of exposure to water and can be used both indoors and outdoors.
	5. Silicone sealant in a special tube for fixing glass blocks. 6. Fixing dowels and anchors for fixing frame structures.
Tools for laying glass blocks:
	1. Level, the longer the partition, the longer the level should be applied, this will increase the accuracy and quality of laying glass blocks. The length of the levels produced by the industry ranges from 40 centimeters to 2.5 meters.
	2. A tool for measuring and marking, that is, a tape measure complete with a construction pencil with a thick lead, they come in different colors.
	3. Marking cord for marking and drawing long straight lines, as well as to control the evenness of laying glass blocks. This tool necessarily comes complete with a special marking powder.
	4. Grinder with a flat abrasive disc, designed to cut excess reinforcement rods. It is advisable to use an abrasive disc with a diameter of 115mm, as it generates less vibration.
	5. Rubber or foam rubber float, it is intended for applying grouting and rubbing with it the seams between glass blocks, as well as removing the remnants of the adhesive solution after laying the glass blocks.
	6. A trough for the preparation of adhesive solution, preferably plastic and with a capacity of 5 buckets, that is, for one batch of solution.
	7. A construction trowel is used to lay the adhesive solution on the surface of the glass blocks to be laid. 8. Sponges for preliminary cleaning of the laid glass blocks from the remnants of adhesive solution and grout.
	9. An electric drill is used for drilling holes for reinforcing bars in cases where the installation is carried out in conjunction with wooden base elements, as well as for stirring the adhesive solution during its preparation.
	10. Mixer the right size, for mixing the adhesive solution.
	12. Perforator, for drilling holes for reinforcing rods in concrete and brick foundations.
	12. Drills for drilling wood with a diameter of 8 - 10mm. 13. Special drill bits for hammer drills with a diameter of 8 - 10 mm.
	14. Rubber hammer, for correcting the masonry of glass blocks, if necessary. 15. Stepladder or portable scaffolding for ease of installation of the structure, if it is quite high.
	16. A trowel, sized to match the thickness of the joint, for opening joints between glass blocks.
	17. Expanding trowel, for removing the adhesive solution from the seams and forming a groove for subsequent filling with grout.
	18. Spatula, for removing dirt and old materials from the surface of the substrate.
	19. A gun for silicone sealant, it allows you to freely work with the sealant with one hand. 20. Dry rag, preferably felt or flannel, for fine cleaning and grinding of glass blocks.

Methods for assembling structures from glass blocks

There are several methods for installing glass blocks. All of them differ from each other in many respects, such as: labor intensity, aesthetics, cost and speed of work performed to manufacture a structure from glass blocks.

Traditional method of stacking glass blocks

is the cheapest, easiest and fastest way, but it is also not the most aesthetic, which is its biggest drawback compared to other methods of installing glass blocks.

When making a partition using the traditional method, you must first clean the surfaces of the base of the walls, floors and ceiling in the place where the partition will be made from chalk, dust, linoleum, parquet and other pollutants and old materials.

The next stage of work is the marking of the future structure directly on the surface of the bases along the perimeter using a level, a construction pencil and a marking cord. All the necessary data and measurement results are applied directly to the surface of the base in those places where they were obtained or will be used at the time of laying the glass blocks.

After carrying out the marking work, you need to start making the glue on which the glass blocks will be laid.

At traditional method stacking glass blocks, as a rule, either the usual cement mortar(in a proportion of 1 bucket of cement + 3 buckets of fine-grained clean river sand + 1 bucket of clean water), or, at best, an ordinary dry mortar for laying tiles or for brickwork.

In the case of using ordinary cement mortar, it is recommended to add 200 grams of PVA glue to 5 buckets of ready-made mortar while stirring to increase the plasticity and adhesion of the glue.

When using ready-made building mixtures, this does not need to be done, since they already include all the necessary components, that is, adhesives and plasticizers.

When installing glass blocks, it is advisable to use white adhesive solutions so that the color of the glass blocks themselves does not change, and also when using solutions based on white cement, in the future more aesthetic joints between glass blocks will be obtained.

Thoroughly mix the glue solution chosen for laying in a special convenient, preferably plastic, dish using an electric drill and a mixer of the required size to a creamy consistency and leave to “ripen” for about 3 - 5 minutes.

After “ripening” the solution should be thoroughly mixed again and it is ready for use.

A properly prepared adhesive solution should not be very thick, but it should not run off from the trowel at the time of laying the glass blocks.

It is not recommended to use a solution diluted after drying for laying glass blocks, since all adhesives in this solution have already been crystallized, and the solution itself has lost its adhesion properties.

Laying a partition made of glass blocks begins with laying the first two reinforcing rods on the base of the floor.

The rods used to reinforce the glass block masonry must be made of stainless steel or galvanized to avoid, firstly, the appearance of rust, which in the future may appear outside the masonry and spoil appearance construction, and secondly, with the corrosion of the reinforcing rods, the structure weakening occurs.

To lay the first reinforcing rods, it is necessary to drill holes in the wall, into which the first two rods will then enter. Holes should be drilled at the very junction of the wall and floor according to the dimensions of the inner walls, prepared for laying glass blocks.

Reinforcing rods, with this manner of laying, will perform the function of embedded elements along the entire height of the laid out structure.

In addition to horizontal rods, it is also necessary to lay vertical reinforcing rods after each laid glass block and also drill holes in the floor for adhesion to the floor base.

If we imagine this structure in a finished state without glass blocks, then it will be metal mesh made of steel rods, in which glass blocks are laid.

After laying the first two rods, use a trowel to apply adhesive solution to the surface of the base and spread it evenly over the entire surface intended for installation. Carefully lay the glass blocks, parallelly inserting vertical reinforcing rods into the prepared holes in the floor and filling the joints with glue solution between the glass blocks, controlling their thickness using special crosses that fit into each corner joint between glass blocks.

Special crosses provide the same seams between the glass blocks and remain walled up in the glass block masonry at the end of the installation work.
With the traditional method of stacking glass blocks, only 3 to 4 rows of glass blocks can be stacked in one go.

Since ordinary cement mortar dries relatively slowly, it is necessary to allow it to dry for at least 12 hours between each next installation.

After the end of each installation, it is necessary to remove all excess glue solution from the surface of the glass blocks with a sponge or rag and free the interblock seams from excess mortar using a jointing trowel.

If this is not done in a timely manner, then after the mortar dries you will get unsightly seams and dirty glass blocks, which are very difficult to clean.

If you plan to grind the joints between the glass blocks with colored grout after installation, then you do not need to use a jointing trowel, you need to free the grout joints using a special spatula, creating recesses in them for filling with grout.

When the installation work comes to an end and it remains to lay about 3 - 4 rows of glass blocks to the ceiling, it is necessary to do the same work with the ceiling as with the floor, that is, drill holes in it according to certain dimensions for laying the remaining final vertical reinforcing rods and continue laying glass blocks before completion of installation.

After the installation of the glass block partitions is complete, it is necessary to again clean or embroider all newly made seams from the adhesive solution and first wipe the surface of the glass blocks from the adhesive solution.

Fully finished structure should dry completely, until the glue mixture is completely dry, at room temperature this period can be approximately 5 - 10 days.

To reduce the drying period, you can use special construction dryers or, as they are also called, construction hair dryers, which by increasing the temperature the environment reduce drying time.

After final drying, it is necessary to wipe the interblock seams with grout, usually grout is used to match the color of the glass blocks themselves, this material is offered in a wide range of colors.

It is advisable to use a moisture resistant grout, because it does not wash out with water and will last you much longer than a regular grout, given that you will have to wipe your partition during cleaning to keep it clean.

The grout is applied diagonally to the surface of the glass brick masonry using a foam float and rubbed into the previously prepared grooves of the joints until they are completely filled. After grouting all joints, remove all excess grout from the surface of the structure with a damp sponge or cloth.

After the partition has dried from wet cleaning, it is necessary to bring its surface to an ideal state by rubbing the surface of the glass blocks with a dry, clean cloth. This operation will ensure the final erasure of small grout residues and give the glass blocks a perfect shine and cleanliness.

Perhaps, after rubbing the partition with a dry cloth, we can say that your partition is ready for use.

Arched walls and partitions

When installing walls and partitions made of glass blocks, which have rounded shapes, all stages of installation work are identical to those described in the section on traditional laying of glass blocks.

The difference in laying in this case lies in the fact that the reinforcing rods are bent in places where the partition is rounded according to its shape, that is, they duplicate the rounding of the wall.

In this case, the seam crosses are placed in the masonry of the glass blocks only inside the curvature in order to maintain the thickness of the internal seams. Outside the curvature of the wall, the seams automatically assume the same width, which depends only on the radius of curvature of the partition.

No need to worry if you notice that the second half of the seam crosses, or rather their thickness, is far from the thickness of the outer seams between the glass blocks.

The outer part of the crosses only adjusts horizontal seams between glass blocks. To make fragments of wall rounding, it is recommended to use half glass blocks of the same color, since, firstly, a larger number of vertical reinforcing rods will be used in the places of rounding, which will give your partition additional strength, and secondly, due to the use of smaller glass blocks, it will be possible reduce the discrepancy between the thickness of the internal and external seams.

Frame method of installation of partitions from glass blocks

This method of installing glass blocks is technologically more complicated than the traditional one. It is also more expensive and naturally more aesthetically pleasing than its traditional counterpart.

The advantage of this method is that when it is used, cement glue mixture is practically not used, and the structure itself is much lighter.

Installation work begins with measuring the dimensions in the place where the glass block partition will be mounted.

Based on the obtained dimensions and linear dimensions of the glass blocks used, a wooden frame is made from dry boards of the required size and thickness.

When making the frame, it is necessary to very accurately observe all the cells into which glass blocks will then be inserted and fastened.

The discrepancy between the dimensions of the cells and the dimensions of the glass blocks used is not more than 2 mm. The smaller the gap in the cells, the better the work on the installation of glass blocks will be done.

The main difficulty of this method of installing glass blocks arises precisely in the manufacture of a frame system, since this process requires increased attention when performing measuring and computational work. The process of manufacturing the frame itself does not give the right to the slightest mistake, since in the future this will have a very negative effect on the appearance of the entire mounted structure. The frame is assembled by gluing or by screwing with the help of special hardware.

The frame is made only from a sanded dry board.

After the frame is made, it must be painted in the color required for the design using a thin-layer paint and, of course, dried until completely dry. The painted frame is installed in a previously prepared place and, using special dowels or anchors, is attached to the walls, ceiling and floor.

After making sure that the frame is installed evenly, correctly and securely with the help of anchors to the walls, ceiling and floor, the installation of glass blocks begins.
Glass blocks are inserted into each prepared cell and, thus, they collect the entire partition completely.

After all the glass blocks are set into the cells, it is necessary to fix them with the help of colorless silicone, applying it at the joints of the glass blocks and timber frame in order to avoid falling out of glass blocks from the frame.

Colorless silicone sealant is practically invisible on the surface of any color and does not spoil the appearance of the entire structure of the partition after drying.

The time for complete drying of the sealant is approximately 8 hours. After complete drying, the silicone resembles a hardened transparent rubber.
After the silicone sealant has dried, it can be assumed that the structure is ready for use.

In places where glass blocks join with drywall, you should use an ordinary putty. The silicone sealant will leave marks on drywall when dry.

Today, glass blocks are increasingly used in the design of an apartment, private office or house. They not only visually enlarge the space, but also additionally illuminate it. The ease of use of glass blocks makes ordinary people wonder how to install glass blocks on one's own.

Glass blocks are building elements made like small double-glazed windows: 2 glasses with air gap... There are two main forms in the form of which glass blocks are produced: square and rectangle. With an individual order, it is possible to manufacture a different shape.

Due to their structure, glass blocks have remarkable properties:

• They let light through thanks to the glass they are made of.
• As well as double-glazed windows and other building elements for the construction of walls, they retain heat in the room.
• Provide excellent soundproofing of the room.
• Protect an apartment or house from excessive moisture.
• Serve as a decorative element.
• Easy to install and maintain.

The glass base of this building material has one significant drawback: it is impossible to conduct communications behind the glass blocks or close anything with them.

Since glass blocks, unlike ordinary walls, do not require further plastering, wallpapering or any other finishing work, they are easy to install yourself.

Self-installation of glass blocks

Before the direct installation of glass blocks in the pre-designated place for them, it is necessary to carry out some preparatory work... They are as follows:

• The installation site of the wall or partitions made of glass blocks is measured in advance: this allows you to determine how many glass building elements are needed. Glass blocks cannot be cut and must be sized carefully. When calculating, take into account the joint joint of the mortar: from 5 to 10 mm each.
• Together with the number of glass blocks, the volume of the required adhesive solution for glass building elements is determined. For these purposes, a mosaic or tile adhesive solution may be suitable.
• Reinforcement is being purchased - steel rods that will support the wall vertically and horizontally.
• Additional accessories - a level, crosses to establish the correct position of the blocks, as well as grout and sealant. The grout can be purchased in the color of the rest of the room.

Before installing the glass blocks, one aspect must be taken into account: each glass block is protected by a special film. If you remove it before installation, there is a risk of damage to the glass block: mortar on the glass building element can damage its surface if not removed immediately. The protective film prevents such damage to the glass blocks.

Stages of work:

1. The surface for future installation must be flat. Initially, a first layer of 5 mm adhesive is applied. Glass blocks must be installed on it one by one, smearing the end side of each with a solution. The side gaps between the wall and the glass block are not filled with mortar: a plastic profile for glass blocks is placed here. It allows you to cushion temperature regime, which means expansion or contraction of the finished wall.
2. Immediately after installing each new block, crosses are placed to align both horizontally and vertically. During construction works you need to carefully monitor the even laying of blocks relative to each other.
3. If horizontal reinforcement is required, then steel rods are stacked on top of every third to fourth row. They must be connected to the wall. Vertical reinforcement is also carried out, only steel rods are attached to the ceiling and floor.
4. After every three to four rows, you need to temporarily suspend work in order, firstly, to clear the already installed glass blocks from the solution, and secondly, so that the solution grabs, and there is no deformation of the wall. The erection of a wall or partition can be continued after 8-10 hours.
5. There are two approaches to laying a glass brick wall: using only adhesive solution, and also using plastic profiles for each vertical row together with the solution.
6. After complete laying of the wall and its necessary drying, you need to use grout to give the glass block partition a finished look.

The installation of glass blocks is not an impossible job, but it has many nuances, without which the appearance of the wall being built can become much worse.

Thanks to a large selection of colored glass blocks, the room will "sparkle" with new bright colors, giving an apartment or house a unique look.

Video

We offer you to watch a video about quick and easy laying of a partition made of glass blocks.

If you still associate this material with unpresentable glass squares from the recent past, it's time to get to know it better. The scope of application of modern glass blocks is practically unlimited, design solutions practical, beautiful and original, and the installation of glass blocks with your own hands can be done even without special skills in construction.

Features and technical characteristics of glass blocks

Modern glass blocks are a hollow material that is formed of two glass plates with a thickness of 6-9 mm, hermetically connected by pressing. Currently, they are produced on automatic lines, which guarantees the invariability of the qualitative composition of the molten glass and the tightness of the seam. The glass block can be transparent, matte, colored or corrugated. According to their light-optical properties, they are divided into translucent, light-scattering and light-guiding. The thickness of the tiles is 7.5-10 cm, the weight is within 4.3 kg. In addition to standard square and rectangular blocks, triangular, corner, round and half elements are produced. There are decorative glass blocks as well. They are presented in a wide range of colors and textures, which allows them to be used in various interior styles.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any other material, double-glazed windows have their pros and cons. This, in turn, affects the ability to use them for certain purposes.
Advantages.
Moisture resistance.
Light transmittance.
Soundproofing.
Fire safety.
Frost resistance.
Easy to care for.
Does not require additional finishing.

Flaws.

The wall remains intact. It is impossible to drive a nail or screw a screw into it, as well as to carry out an electrical wiring or sewage system inside.
Glass blocks are not processed. They cannot be cut to use the correct size. All measurements must be calculated in advance.
In the room where the window opening is glazed with glass blocks, it is necessary to carry out additional ventilation systems.

Glass blocks in the interior (hallway)

Variants of using glass blocks in the interior

Not so long ago, glass blocks have returned to fashion and have become ubiquitous in interior design. With their help, you can bring to life the most daring and original ideas, it is beneficial to play with light. Glass blocks in the interior of an apartment are photographed in the creation of walls, partitions, windows, furniture and much more.

Glass block wall

During the redevelopment of apartments, it is often necessary to remove or move some walls. This helps to plan the space and create a comfortable layout for the rooms. Glass wall - original and interesting solution... Visually, it lightens the space. There is only one drawback in this option. The glass block itself looks cold and does not contribute to the creation of comfort. Therefore, it is often combined with other materials, for example, plasterboard, or multi-colored elements are used. This combination makes the interior more interesting.
This type of decor is especially popular in corridors, lobbies and other darkened rooms, where a wall made of glass blocks will be not only a functional element, but also an additional light source. Glass blocks will look gorgeous if there is an opportunity to lay out a wall rounded like in the photo in the interior of the apartment.

Partitions

Partitions of varying complexity, width and height from glass blocks are often installed in the bathroom. Glass here looks the most harmonious, goes well with tiles, is not afraid of moisture, is not affected by fungus and is easy to clean. Frosted glass blocks allow not only to zone the space and organize the so-called intimate zones, but also to create practical shower cabins of the required size and shape from glass blocks according to the photo. A small partition can advantageously divide the kitchen into a working and dining area, and living room to the bedroom and living room.

Window

This method of connecting external and internal space by means of transparent or frosted glass blocks is best suited for baths and swimming pools. As a decorative element, a glass panel is made in the form of a window. Decorate it if desired light curtains... Glass blocks in this form are laid not only in the bathroom. The original windows can divide the living room or kitchen with a corridor. When glass blocks are used as windows, openings usually take on the most incredible shapes.

Floors

The strength of the material allows glass blocks with a rough texture to be used as flooring. Backlighting is usually placed under such transparent areas, the effect is impressive.

Do not lay glass blocks on the floor in the bathroom or corridor, here their surface can become dangerously slippery.

Furniture

Modern glass "bricks" are comfortable and practical material for creating furniture designs... In the kitchens, islands or bar counters are built from them. In the bathroom, you can erect a console under the sink, and a narrow wall of glass blocks can smoothly transition into a small functional table. Glass furniture looks impressive and original, but rearrangement will be difficult.

Individual decor elements

When decorating the walls of rooms, glass blocks are often placed pointwise. Recessed into the wall, they do not let light through, but they reflect it very beautifully. One tile is placed on an approximate area of ​​1 m2. The options for using the material are limited only by the designer's imagination. Glass tiles decorate kitchen apron, frame door and window openings, mirrors. Risers of stairs, podiums and even false fireplaces are laid out from them. The shower cubicle made of glass blocks looks interesting as a proof.

Glass blocks in various interior styles.

When developing the design of a room, it is important to take into account that glass blocks must harmoniously fit into the style of the room and create a single composition with it. Special attention you need to pay attention to the color and texture of the building material, choose the right shape and method of constructing. The most harmoniously transparent or monotonous glass block looks in modern styles, urban, loft or high-tech. Baroque or art deco decorativeness can be emphasized by multi-colored tiles, as an addition to the main material. Art Nouveau interior will fit in the best way stained glass, they will also be appropriate in oriental stylizations and modern classic interior... They practically do not use the material in the interior, made in country, rustic or retro style.

Installation of glass blocks

Having mastered the theory, you can safely start practice. Installation of any element of glass blocks can be done in one of two ways:
on the frame;
on glue or mortar.

Regardless of the method chosen, before you start laying, you need to take into account a number of features of working with the material.
The floor on which the glass blocks will be laid must be perfectly flat and clean.
The total wall area should not exceed 15 m2, otherwise the blocks in the lower rows may crack due to their heavy weight.
Any wall made of a decorative glass block cannot be used as a load-bearing one.
The protective film of frosted glass blocks is removed only after filling the joints.

Technique "On the frame"

This mounting technology is quite simple. It is sometimes called dry. The glass block is fixed on special modular systems. This method allows you to quickly lay out ideal smooth walls without plumb lines and level. Usually, the frames are made of plastic or wood, aluminum and polyurethane are also found. Each block has its own cell, its size is selected depending on the dimensions of the glass block. The frame is fixed to the wall with screws, also fixed to the floor and ceiling. The blocks are fixed in the cells by means of special rubber gaskets. This method of installation does not require special skills, but is used only to create decorative or interior partitions, where good sound insulation is not needed.

On glue or mortar.

This technique is more complex, time consuming and requires some knowledge. The material is fixed on a special glue for glass blocks. Reinforcement is performed at the place of laying. Two stainless steel rods are laid on the floor parallel to each other. The width between them should be less than the depth of the glass block. Vertical reinforcement is performed with a step equal to the width of the block. For better sealing, an insulating tape is fixed to the base of the frame. On it, the place of joining of the blocks is marked with the help of spacer crosses. After laying each row, the structure is reinforced, two reinforcing rods are laid in parallel and sunk into the solution.

Laying glass blocks

Glass blocks are used not only for the decoration of industrial-type buildings, they are used in a modern interior, they make various decorative inserts or completely walls. The material is made of glass mass, it turns out to be transparent, which allows more light to pass into the room. The blocks are hollow inside, the glass thickness reaches 7 millimeters. With the help of modern glass blocks, you can create original interior, they are used to create columns, partitions, make wall and ceiling inserts.

Characteristics of glass blocks

Glass blocks can have different colors and textures, they are transparent or multi-colored, matte and decorative, that is, with patterns. The material may have different shape, rectangular square, triangular, also glass blocks are end, corner or in the form of columns.

Thanks to the glass material, the blocks are transparent, non-flammable and have an aesthetic appearance. A vacuum is created inside the blocks, due to this, the material is considered energy-saving, and it also performs thermal insulation functions. The glass block is in good contact with water, so it can be used for finishing swimming pools and wet rooms.

Also, the glass block has a high rate of sound insulation, fire safety, the material is environmentally friendly, and not picky about cleaning. If one unit is damaged, it is not necessary to disassemble the entire surface, it is enough to replace an element or a separate section.

Glass blocks are resistant to low temperatures, a special material is also made that can withstand a significant load.

The surface of this material does not require further finishing, for example, plastering, painting or wallpapering. To clean the blocks from contamination, they can be washed with plain water or various glass detergents.

Ways of laying glass blocks

Consider how to lay glass blocks. The material can be laid in three ways. The first method is laborious and resembles brickwork... First, the site of the proposed structure is cleaned of contamination, after which an adhesive mixture is prepared. To connect the glass blocks to each other, you can use special compounds or adhesive mixtures that are suitable for ceramics.

Then two rods are laid on the floor surface, which are made of stainless steel, they serve as a reinforcing material. Special holes are made in the wall, where the ends of the rods are inserted. After that, holes are made in the floor, and the rods are fixed vertically. The blocks are laid according to the type of brickwork, the seams must be expanded, and the material itself must be cleaned of mortar. The surface is left to dry for up to ten days, and then the seams are rubbed with a special compound to match the color of the blocks.

In the second method, laying is carried out using a solution, so that the distance between the blocks is the same, special crosses are used. First, the first row is laid using a level construction type and beacons, crosses are placed between the glass blocks, and rods, which serve as reinforcing material. Using a spatula, a solution is spread on the surface of the laid row and the side part, then the block is pressed against the crosses. Excess solution is removed from all joints, and after drying, grout is performed. On the final stage, the surface of the blocks is washed out with a sponge.

The third method of laying takes place using a special frame, while cement-type mortars are not used. First, a frame is made of wood or plastic, the cells of which correspond to the dimensions of the glass block. The finished frame is fixed from all sides with screws to all adjacent surfaces, that is, the floor, and walls. A glass block is placed in each cell, and its fixation is carried out using special inserts made of rubber or sealant. By using rubber pads, the blocks can be easily pulled out and swapped if necessary. The frame can be of any shape, square, rectangular or in the form of steps.

The frame can be made not only of plastic or wood, for its manufacture they also take aluminum or polyurethane in a soft form. Such walls will not have high sound insulation, they are used only as decorative elements.

What is the texture of glass blocks?

Glass blocks may differ in appearance. Their textured surface can be smooth, embossed, light-scattering, that is, matte from the inside or outside, and light-guiding, namely, embossed from the inside.

In order to increase the permeability of light, the ends of the blocks can be covered with amalgam. The ends of euro glass blocks are covered with white paint. Thus, after laying them, the solution will not be noticeable. Also, sometimes a hole is made at the ends to fill the block with paint.

Advantages of glass blocks

1. The material is durable and reliable, resistant to moisture, low temperature, and fire.
2. The glass block has a high light-transmitting function, thanks to this, the room can be made visually spacious and bright.
3. With the help of this material, you can give the interior an original design.
4. Glass blocks can have different sizes, shapes and colors, this allows you to combine the material, and get an unusual surface.
5. Due to the tightness, the interior is not contaminated, and the outer surface is easy to clean with a sponge.
6. The material has high rates of thermal and sound insulation, it is capable of absorbing noise, it is fire-resistant, environmentally friendly, resistant to humidity and freezing temperatures.
7. The surface made of glass blocks does not require subsequent finishing.

Adhesive way of laying glass blocks

1. The block located on the edge is fixed to the guide horizontally.
2. To connect vertical surfaces, special dividing strips are used.
3. Before you start laying the second row, set the guide horizontally again, and attach it to the wall.
4. The glue can harden both quickly and for a long period, it depends on its type.
5. At the end, all joints are grouted with the required color, and then the blocks are washed out of the solution that has fallen on them.

Laying glass blocks on cement mortar

1. The solution must be spread not only on a horizontal surface, but also on vertical walls.
2. Using a building-type level, the evenness of the laying is measured.
3. In order to strengthen the structure, reinforcement with rods is performed.
4. After the solution has solidified, the seams are rubbed with the required color, and the surface is washed out of contamination.

Basic rules for laying glass blocks

1. The solution used when laying glass blocks should not contain large grains of sand, otherwise the product can be scratched.
2. As soon as the solution dries up a little, the dirt from it must be removed so that the surface has a beautiful appearance.
3. If the material is smeared with grout, then it must be removed wet until the stains have dried. For this, acetic acid is used.
4. When laying glass blocks of a matte look, the protective film is removed after all joints have been grouted.
5. The rod for reinforcement should only be galvanized or steel, its diameter reaches 6 millimeters.

   Laying installation of glass blocks

   The rods are placed vertically and horizontally. Iron will quickly deteriorate, that is, it will be covered with corrosion due to a thin layer of solution.

6. At a time, you can lay glass blocks in no more than three rows so that the structure does not shift and does not bend. You can hit the glass blocks with a rubber hammer.
7. If laying is done external walls, then their area should not be more than 15 m2, in otherwise the bottom row of blocks can burst due to significant weight.
8. Since the surfaces of the built-in type are made of glass blocks, some kind of support should be located along their edges.
9. When manufacturing the frame, the cells must correspond to the size of the glass block, the permissible deviation is 2 millimeters. The void from above is filled with a sealant or a rubber gasket is laid.

With the help of glass blocks, you can get an original surface, their installation does not require special knowledge, you can do it yourself. The material is easy to care for, and has a number of advantages, differs original decor in the interior.

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Hello! For the construction of partitions indoors, glass blocks are increasingly used today. Such designs look aesthetically pleasing and stylish, they let light through and therefore do not visually clutter up the space, performing the zoning function. Another plus of the material is absolute resistance to moisture and aggressive environments, and the installation of glass blocks is not very difficult work. But how to properly lay glass blocks, read below.

Tools and materials

To install glass blocks, you will need:

• roulette, building level, scribe pencil, construction square;
• special crosses for laying glass blocks and plastic wedges for leveling the floor;
• a grinder or nippers (for trimming crosses, cutting reinforcement), an electric drill, 6 mm drill bits for tiles or concrete and a whisk;
• tile adhesive white, fiberglass reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm, a container for the preparation of glue;
• medium spatula, beta-contact primer, masking tape, sponge and quick-setting glass glue;
• glass block and end glass decorative strips.

Preparatory work

First of all, you should decide on the size of the partition. Please note that its width and height will depend on the dimensions of the selected blocks, since the elements cannot be cut to size. The standard glass block format is 19x19x8 cm or 24x24x8 cm, but manufacturers may offer other options. The thickness of a glass block usually varies within 7-10 cm. In addition to solid blocks, a number of manufacturers also offer "halves" - blocks that are half the width of the standard.

Presented on the market wide selection colorless and painted glass blocks, smooth and with a relief surface, as well as elements with decorative filling. When buying, make sure that the blocks are of the same standard size, check for cracks, chips and scratches.

Before starting work, lay the future partition on the floor if you decide to use blocks with different decorative designs. Please select suitable option the location of the decorative elements and sketch the diagram so that later nothing will be confused during installation.

At the preliminary stage, markings should be made on the wall and floor. Be sure to check the verticality of the lines. Apply masking tape on both sides along the line if there is a fragile wall decorative trim(paint, wallpaper), then inside the resulting strip, the width of which is equal to the thickness of the glass block, it is better to remove it, but the wall tile and the flooring does not need to be touched. The space between the strips of masking tape is primed with "beta contact" to ensure the necessary adhesion to tile adhesive... Glass blocks are laid after the primer has completely dried.

Instructions for laying glass blocks

Mix the adhesive according to the manufacturer's instructions using a drill with a whisk attachment. Cut some of the crosses for glass blocks oriented to all 4 sides so that they can be installed end-to-end against the wall and on the floor.

The technology of laying glass blocks requires particular attention to the installation of the first block adjacent to the wall. It is displayed using a construction square and a level. The glass block must be located strictly vertically, strictly at 90 ° to the wall, otherwise the geometry of the entire partition will be violated.

The first block is set using cropped crosses. A reinforcement bar is placed on it to mark the place on the wall where the hole for the reinforcement fasteners will be made. The same mark is made on the floor, under the rebar, which will be positioned vertically. Then the second block of the horizontal row is exposed (using cropped crosses) and a second mark for reinforcement is made on the floor.

Then remove the blocks and drill holes to a depth equal to the thickness of the tiles, or about 5 to 6 mm if holes are drilled directly into concrete wall... A restrictive sleeve made of electrical tape can be wound around the drill. Sweep away dust from drilling or remove with a vacuum cleaner.

Next, apply a volumetric layer of the prepared glue with a spatula to the floor and wall, the same glue is applied to the two sides of the block, which will adjoin the wall and floor. A cropped cross is installed against the wall, the first block is placed and leveled. If necessary, wedges are placed under the block to level the floor.

Top and side ends installed unit a layer of glue is applied. Also, using a spatula, glue is applied to the floor in the place where the second block will be installed, and to the two ends of the second block. Then a vertical reinforcement bar is inserted into the prepared hole in the floor and the second block is installed, right next to the first. Do not forget to put crosses under it. Next, a horizontal reinforcement bar is inserted into the hole in the wall, which rests on the first two blocks.

Check the location of the second block with a level, remove excess glue near the floor and wall with a spatula, you can also use a damp sponge. Apply glue to the horizontal surface of the second block, securing the reinforcing bar. Further, according to the same principle, the third block of the lower row is placed - after the installation of the second vertical reinforcing bar.

The next stage is the preliminary installation of the first block of the second row (on the crosses) to mark the place of the hole under horizontal reinforcement... Remove the block, cover the surface of the lower block with cardboard and drill a hole in the wall. Carefully remove the cardboard with dust and mount the unit by applying glue to its lower surface and the end adjacent to the wall, as well as to the wall surface itself.

Mount the entire bottom row of blocks to the end (pre-marking and making holes for vertical reinforcement), as well as the second horizontal row. Use crosses and check that the structure is vertical and horizontal. Use plastic wedges to align the bottom row if necessary.

When the whole structure is laid out, carefully remove excess glue and its traces on the surface of the blocks with a damp sponge. After the adhesive is completely dry, it is necessary to break off the outer petals of the crosses - the rods that set the seam thickness remain embedded in the masonry.

Note! It is recommended to lay out no more than 5 - 6 rows of glass blocks at a time to avoid increased stress on the structure before the glue sets. You can continue work on the construction of the partition the next day.

Laying glass blocks with your own hands

The verticality and horizontalness are checked after the installation of each row.

At the final stage, the open side end and the upper surface of the glass block partition are closed with decorative glass strips of a suitable width. They are attached with a fast-setting glass glue. While the glue sets, the strips can be fixed with paper tape.

Then the seams of the masonry must be carefully filled with grout. After it has solidified, the glass block partition is completely ready.

About installation

Installation (laying) instructions for glass blocks

on traditional pattern laying on the example of masonry blocks SEVES / VETROARREDO / BASIC (vertical wall structure)

Previously, the installation of glass blocks was carried out using ordinary masonry mortar with the addition of coloring pigments or without them, adding PVA glue for plasticity, or using ceramic tile / porcelain stoneware glue. However, after the advent of glue for glass blocks and glass mosaics, we would recommend using it. This dry building mixture contains all the necessary components for laying glass blocks (plasticizers, clarifiers, etc.) and is freely sold in hardware stores. As a last resort, use a dry mixture for laying ceramic tiles to prepare the adhesive solution.

First of all, it should be taken into account that the construction of glass blocks can only perform the function of an attached partition, and not a load-bearing one. That is, it is strictly forbidden to mount any floors, fasteners for furniture or heavy interior items on glass blocks!

The reinforcement for imparting strength to the glass wall should be made of stainless steel or coated with an anti-corrosive compound. It should also be ensured that during installation it does not come into contact with the glass. Diameter 6-8 mm.

Select grout and glue in accordance with the color of the glass blocks. Choose moisture resistant grout grades.

It is not recommended to erect a construction of glass blocks more than four rows in height per day in order to avoid its curvature due to subsidence on unsecured mortar. This rule is best observed even when using plastic mounting crosses and special mounting glue. The glue has much more short term hardening than cement slurry, but this does not prevent the risk of accidental mechanical impacts on still insufficient solid construction when working.

If it is necessary to erect a structure with an area of ​​more than 15 sq.m. it is necessary to provide for the division overall design into parts horizontally and, if necessary, also vertically. In this case, the length of one section in any case should not be more than 7.5 m, and the height should not exceed 6 meters. The sections should be fixed with load-bearing steel struts securely attached to the main walls, floor and ceiling with expansion joints.

After laying out a part of the glass blocks, do not forget to promptly remove excess mortar before it hardens from the surface of the glass blocks and clean the seams for their subsequent grouting.

Material consumption:

Cross consumption calculate according to the diagram in the figure (enlarge the figure by clicking the mouse)

Consumption of glass blocks 19x19x8 cm with a seam of 16 mm - 23 pieces per square meter. With a seam of 10 mm - 25 pcs. per sq. m.

Consumption of glass blocks 19x9x8 cm with a seam of 16 mm - 46 pieces per square meter. With a seam of 10 mm - 50 pcs. per sq. m.

Consumption of solution or glue- 25 kg. per square meter.

Metal consumption. reinforcement 6-8 mm / d- 12 running. meters per sq. meter.

Joint expansion joints consumption (PVC tape, foam, etc.) - based on the length and height of the masonry walls.

Grout consumption for joints- based on the area of ​​the masonry.

Beginning of work:

Using a spirit level, check the horizontal and vertical position of the supporting surface / mounting surface. Clean contact surfaces. Outline dimensions walls (thickness, length and height). With two wooden slats outline the boundaries of the base of the wall. At a distance of about 60 - 80 cm, install movable squares to check the verticality of the wall.

Laying:

Take the first glass block and apply the mortar with a trowel on one side. If the glass blocks are covered with a protective film, then you need to remove it not over the masonry, but at the end. Place the block against the wall, aligning it with the mortar. In this case, the side with the mixture is laid on the expansion joint, while maintaining a distance of approximately 1 cm from it. Fill the created space with the mixture.

Take the next block and repeat the above steps. In this case, the block is laid with the side with the mixture applied to the previously laid block. Install the first plastic mounting cross between the two blocks. Repeat the operation of laying glass blocks and crosses to the end of the row.

Install the first stainless steel bar in a horizontal position; in this case, the base of the rod is placed in a previously made hole in the wall. After installing the rod, fill the hole with material to eliminate possible displacements. The rod is mounted directly on the plastic mounting crosses. At the end of the row, check that the wall is vertical and horizontal. Provide for the installation of reinforcing bars for both horizontal and vertical gaps, avoiding their contact with the glass. If the laying is done on cement mortar, it is not recommended to lay out more than three rows of glass blocks per day in order to avoid the appearance of irregularities in the surface of the structure. The solution should set. Install an expansion joint at the ceiling before laying the last row. Remove excess mixture between glass blocks, between glass blocks and perimeter structures before hardening.

To close wide and high openings with glass blocks, to erect structures of a large area, it is better to additionally use side steel U-shaped holders. They will give the glass wall more strength. When using side holders, do not forget to leave a compensation layer of at least 1 cm.

How to lay glass blocks

With a masonry area of ​​less than 4 sq.m. no holders needed.

Finishing, polishing, protection:

Before starting plastering work, check whether the mortar is dry. Remove the outer plates of the plastic mounting crosses with a non-scratch tool. Remove the protective film from the glass blocks, if present.

Apply the grout mixture with a soft grout, making sure to evenly fill the gaps. Wait for the mixture to set and start a thinner grout with a damp, clean sponge. While the grout is still damp, start cleaning the individual panes using a clean and damp sponge or soft cloth. In this case, it is necessary to frequently rinse them in clean water and try not to scratch the glass.

Use diluted hydrochloric acid (for example, hydrochloric acid, anti-limestone or similar products) or acetic acid (for example, white wine vinegar) to remove possible streaks or mortar stains that have hardened on glass blocks. At the same time, make sure that the solution does not get on the seams, and take the necessary measures for personal safety.

Do not use oily solvents, hydrofluoric acid or solutions with a high alkali content (eg soda or similar) for cleaning. After cleaning the wall and completely drying it, seal the perimeter points of contact with the wall with an appropriate material to prevent water penetration.

For the same reasons, protect the wall from water penetration by applying a silicone-based waterproofing liquid to the gaps. These fluids are completely transparent and provide another guarantee of a long life for the glass block surface.

Note: when laying glass blocks with a satin-finished surface, the protective film should be removed only at the time of sealing the joints. Possible glue residues from the film can be removed warm water with a little lather. If it is difficult to remove them, it is possible to apply acetone or acetylene trichloride using a non-abrasive sponge. With regard to the use of silicone-based waterproofing mastics and sealants, carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Connecting glass blocks to the door:

In a shower or other place where it is necessary to install an entrance in a glass structure, U-shaped metal profiles should be used to fix the door on the sides adjacent to the glass blocks.

A cushioning material with a thickness of at least 1 cm must be inserted into the profiles.When laying glass blocks, it is necessary to accurately calculate the dimensions doorway... The profiles are attached to door frame preliminarily.

To prevent rough mechanical impact on the glass wall from slamming the door, be sure to install a brake device for the door leaf.

To prevent damage to the glass surface from impacts doorknob if the door is opened too much, be sure to install the door leaf end position lock when opening.

Do not use heavy metal doors for use in the case of an entrance in a glass block partition. Glass walls are not designed for constant rough mechanical stress on them.

Laying out curved surfaces:

Surfaces made of non-straight glass blocks can be laid out using the Posavelox system from Italian manufacturers. In fact, this is a constructor and you can figure it out without difficulty yourself. We will look at more traditional styling using the same consumables as when laying out straight surfaces.

The main difference between the laying of straight and curved surfaces is that it is necessary to bend the reinforcing bars at the joints of the glass blocks along a given radius. Mounting crosses in this case fix the glass blocks vertically only inside the curve. The outer part fixes only horizontal gaps. With a small radius of curvature, you can use whole glass blocks. When making smoothed right angles or laying out a surface of a small radius, glass blocks are used - halves. This approach avoids ugly wide seams on the outside.

To bend the reinforcement, use any simple template that allows you to give the same specified angles. Thinner reinforcement can be used than when laying out straight surfaces. This will make the work easier and will not compromise the strength of the structure, since the curved surface itself is stronger and more stable.

Frame method for installing glass blocks:

This method facilitates the construction of glass blocks, makes it easy to disassemble, reconstruct, replace elements. Aesthetically, this design benefits a lot. But there are also disadvantages - this is impractical for rooms with high humidity, more expensive installation.

In accordance with the dimensions of the room and the dimensions of the glass blocks, a frame is made of dry polished boards. Each glass block has its own cell. The gap should not exceed 2 mm. The frame is glued or screwed onto hardware. Naturally, it is difficult to make such a frame yourself without the necessary carpentry equipment, you will have to order.

Next, the frame is painted in the color corresponding to the design, dried and screwed to the floor, ceiling and walls with anchors. Further, a glass block is inserted into each cell (of course, starting from the bottom), fixed with a colorless silicone sealant at the points of contact of the glass block with the frame. After the sealant has dried, the structure is ready for use.

Rubber inserts can be used instead of sealant. This will further simplify the replacement of glass blocks if necessary. On sale you can find ready-made wooden modules (frames) for the installation of glass blocks. Special rubber gaskets are included in the kit.

Glass blocks are now used not only for partitions in the bathroom - any rooms are zoned with similar walls, they even create facades of buildings from them. They are also used in the form of decorative elements in bulkheads made of other materials - drywall, wood, brick. Light transmission, heat protection, moisture resistance and external beauty are the main advantages of glass blocks. They are almost as good at transmitting light as plain glass, but much stronger. To create a glass block wall, it is not necessary to hire specialists - if you know the technological nuances, you can do it yourself.

The blocks are made by joining glass tiles with a thickness of about 7 mm into a kind of brick. Inside it is rarefied air, thanks to which the block walls are well protected from extraneous noise and keep warm.

To create a beautiful partition, you need to know the dimensions of the glass blocks:

Glass bricks for creating partitions do not necessarily look like bricks. For the construction of extravagant bulkheads, pyramids, cubes, hemispheres, stars, corners, curvilinear products are used. The latter are more often used as decorative inserts.

The surface of glass bricks for bulkheads is absolutely transparent, matte, colored, corrugated.

Smooth, unpainted products are capable of transmitting up to 80 percent of light rays, tinted ones - up to 50 percent. Frosted blocks diffuse light, and grooved ones transform it, creating an interesting play of highlights.

They also produce decorative bricks with pictures or even figurines of animals, insects, shells, and ship models inserted inside. Modern technologies allow you to equip the cavity of the block with LEDs, which creates a fascinating illumination of the partition.

Glass block stacking technology

The partition made of glass blocks is a beautiful and simple construction. One person can handle its creation. Here it is important to know and follow the rules for installing a partition made of glass blocks in accordance with the chosen method - "wet" or "dry".

Correct laying of glass blocks

In order to correctly lay glass bricks, it is necessary to take into account the nuances of working with the material:

• The surface on which the glass blocks are to be laid must be completely flat and clean.
• The wall area should not be more than 15 "squares", otherwise the elements of the lower rows may crack due to a significant load.
• A wall made of this material cannot be used as a load-bearing one.
• The film that protects the glass blocks is removed only after mashing the seams.

If it is decided to use glass blocks to create partitions in the bathroom, it is better to enclose with them the location of the old font, where all communications have already been connected.

The foundation for the false wall must have a bearing strength. If in doubt, you will need to make reinforcements using special metal structures.

Cement method for laying glass blocks

It is believed that creating a partition or ledge from glass blocks by laying them on a cement-sand mortar is most economical. This process is called "wet": it resembles the laying of bricks, only glass blocks are installed not in a checkerboard pattern, but one above the other. Only a finely dispersed mixture can be used for the solution. Large fragments can damage the glass surface.

The use of special glue will simplify the work even more. Some formulations are produced colorless, which will preserve the perfect transparency of the false wall.

Identical seams between glass blocks are obtained using spacer crosses. If the bulkhead is of a rounded configuration, then crosses between the elements are installed only in the inner part of the rounding. On the outside, the seams will remain equal, but larger than the inside. Their value is influenced by the rounding radius. It is possible to reduce the size of joints in a rounded wall by using "half" glass blocks. And the smaller the radius, the higher the need to use semi-blocks.

For the construction of solid bulkheads of significant dimensions, it is required to assemble a frame base from a metal profile, fixed on the floor, ceiling, wall.

How to build a partition in the "wet way":

1. Mix a small amount of adhesive, sufficient to install three rows of glass blocks.
2. Apply glue to all sides of the garments. Between them, after installation, insert masonry crosses.
3. After completing each row, lay reinforcement rods with a diameter of 4–6 mm on top. In the first row, install them also in the seams between the blocks so that they protrude above the masonry. So they will go into the seams and subsequent rows.
4. Wait 24 hours for the adhesive to harden completely.
5. Repeat the cycles until the entire height of the partition is erected.

After the erection of the false wall, the seams are rubbed, and the protective film is removed from the glass blocks. To close the connection of the partition element with the floor, a plastic skirting board is used.

Traditional method of stacking glass blocks

In this case, the "dry" method of fixing glass blocks is used. They are fixed on special modular systems. This method allows you to most quickly build completely flat walls without using a plumb line and level.

The frame material is varied. These are plastic, wood, polyurethane, aluminum of various shades and textures.

Modular systems do not spoil the aesthetic appearance of the partition, on the contrary, they bring an additional artistic effect to the design of the living room or bedroom.

Frame cells are made according to the size of glass blocks. During the work, constant checking of the horizontal and vertical levels is not required, and the laying process progresses much faster.

The frame base is fixed to the wall, floor and ceiling using dowel nails or self-tapping screws. Fixation of blocks in cells is carried out by using special gaskets made of rubber - seals or silicone sealants. The latter are used more often: the structure comes out stronger, since the blocks are glued into the frame. But when using rubber seals, the damaged element is easier to replace.

Installation is quite quick and affordable even for an inexperienced builder. The advantages of this method are that the partition element can be moved if necessary.

Laying glass blocks with your own hands

If you decide to install a volumetric rectilinear partition made of glass blocks in the living room, hallway or bathroom, it is better to choose the "dry" method.

When designing partitions of a complex configuration, choose cement method... The reinforcement rods will need to be bent to the desired shape.

For "wet" technology you will need:

• level;
• marker for marking;
• roulette;
• spacer crosses;
• nippers;
• drill:
• putty knife;
• drills for tiles.

You will also need cement-sand mixture or glue, mixing bowl and whisk, wire or fiberglass reinforcement.

The set of tools and materials is different for creating a partition using "dry" technology with your own hands, for example, here you need a perforator, a grinder with a stone disc, seals or silicone sealant... If the module is wooden, you will additionally need a hacksaw with fine teeth and a screwdriver.

Before erecting the bulkhead, decide on its dimensions. They must correspond to the dimensions of the selected glass blocks - these elements cannot be sawed. If there are discrepancies, it is better to buy half-blocks of a suitable color.

In order not to be mistaken with the sizes and patterns, lay out the blocks in the desired order on the floor and sketch a diagram showing all sizes. Then mark the bearing surfaces, checking the verticality of the lines. After that, you can start erecting the partition in the chosen way.

Glass blocks in the interior of the apartment

The possibilities of using glass blocks for partitions in the interior are extensive. With their help, interior false walls are decorated. different forms, enclose baths and showers, create windows, columns and arches, decorate staircases.

Glass blocks will enliven and improve the interior design, decorated in a laconic style:

• minimalistic;
• high tech;
• constructivist;
• pop Art;
• urban;
• eclectic;
• environmentally friendly;
• modern and postmodern;
• art deco.

But in classic style, Baroque or Renaissance, it is rather difficult to enter them, although it is possible as rare decorative elements.

Glass blocks successfully zone the space: they can be used to separate the kitchen and recreation area in a studio apartment or to distinguish between the living room and the hallway. The backlit options look interesting, for example, a bar counter glowing from the inside or a decorative window made of colored glass blocks in the partition separating the sleeping area. And the most daring experimenters insert decorative elements in the flooring.

Advantages and disadvantages of glass blocks

Translucent blocks let in enough light so they don't use basic lighting and save on electricity. But even colored products, due to translucency, do not create the feeling of a closed space.

Other advantages of the material are:

• Non-flammability. Blocks keep high temperature for at least an hour.
• Good sound insulation and heat retention due to internal cavities. Thanks to this, the blocks are used to decorate the facades of buildings.
• Resistant to odor absorption.
• Environmental friendliness and health safety.
• Moisture resistance combined with the inability to form mold and mildew.
• Undemanding care. Such partitions can be cleaned with common household glass products.
• Variety of decorative possibilities.

However, partitions made of glass blocks have certain disadvantages. You cannot hang a shelf or cabinet on them, since it is forbidden to make holes in the blocks. It is also impossible to hide communication highways behind them or inside them. If the window in the room is decorated with glass blocks, installation will be required ventilation system- after all, the window cannot be made. Also, the disadvantages of glass blocks include the high cost of quality products.

Bulkheads made of glass blocks require accuracy in measurements and accuracy in laying. But the beauty and functionality are more than worth the effort to create them.