Suspended structure - versatile and practical option ceiling finishes. It can be installed in any room, regardless of the humidity level. Get creative with your device false ceiling and construction experience makes it possible to create a multi-level structure of an original form. But even an ordinary single-level frame with plasterboard cladding hides the defects of the main ceiling, allows you to hide communications, wiring and ventilation elements, and place lamps. Reducing the height of the ceiling reduces heating costs, and the layer of thermal insulation keeps the room warm.

If you have the skills construction works, then you will quickly figure out how to make a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands. Novice masters will have a harder time in this matter, but desire and a good helper will allow them to cope with the task at hand.

What is needed to install a false ceiling? It:

• powerful drill or hammer drill;
• laser or water level;
• screwdriver;
• scissors for metal;
• roulette;
• chopping cord;
• assembly knife.

Materials for installation of the structure

The basis of suspended ceilings is a metal, less often wooden, frame. To assemble it, you need to purchase:

• Guide steel galvanized profile UD, having a length equal to 3 and 4 m, metal thickness up to 0.6 mm.
• Ceiling-column bearing profile CD, produced in lengths of 3 and 4 m, its width is 6 cm, the thickness of the steel base is 0.4‒0.6 mm.
• Connectors for CD profiles: angular, longitudinal, single-level (crab), straight hanger, self-tapping screws and dowels.
• Drywall sheets. The type of material - ordinary or moisture resistant, is selected depending on the purpose of the room and the level of humidity in it.

Note! Professional installers recommend buying all the materials for the frame from one manufacturer, then they are the best fit in size.

Markup

Installation of the structure begins with the marking of the walls and ceiling. In one of the corners, the first point is marked, dropping it by the size of the future ceiling. Using a water level, a mark is made on the opposite wall. This instrument consists of two vessels filled with water and connected by a tube. It accurately shows the horizontal plane, it is enough to raise its parts and set the same water level on the drawn scale. On it, the marks are transferred to the wall and connected with a chopping cord. An accurately drawn horizontal line will allow you to properly screw the profile and avoid difficulties with the installation of the structure.

Note! On the ceiling, it is necessary to determine the attachment points for the hangers and the ceiling profile. Lines are marked at a distance of 60 cm, for the first profile from the wall 25 cm are laid.

The guide profile is fixed along the marked strip with dowels. Holes for them are punched with a puncher in the walls and in the metal profile. The fixing step is 30 cm, in the corners it is reduced to 10 cm. The galvanized guide profile is installed on all walls. The ceiling profile will be inserted into it.

Straight hangers are attached at the intersection of the lines marking the location of the CD profile. They are screwed in with two or three dowels, it depends on the expected load.

The perforated sides fold back at a 90 degree angle. The CD profile is inserted into the opposite UD guide profiles. If the smallest side of the room exceeds 4 m, then the bearing profile is spliced ​​with longitudinal connectors, in this place a suspension can be installed to increase reliability. In small rooms, the profile must be cut into pieces. It can be easily cut with special metal scissors. To align all CDs in the same plane, a strong thread is pulled under them as a guide. The profile is screwed to the suspensions on both sides with self-tapping screws. The remaining parts of the plates are bent to the sides.

After fixing all suspensions, the transverse parts of the frame are installed. To do this, you need connectors "crabs", which snap onto the CD profile at a distance of 50 cm from one another. The tendrils of the connector are bent on the longitudinal profile and transverse parts, the connection is made with self-tapping screws. The lintels must be attached to the main profile at right angles. After tightening all the joints with self-tapping screws, we get a ready-made frame with a cellular structure, to which you can screw drywall sheets.

Ceiling cladding

The plasterboard ceiling structure is not designed to carry additional weight. Heavy luminaires or air conditioners must not be attached to it. Before the ceiling is sewn up, it is necessary to make a fixture for the chandelier, which is installed on the ceiling. At this stage, insulation is laid, electrical wiring is laid for spotlights.

Plasterboard sheets are laid so that their edge is located in the center of the CD bearing profile. The fastening of the canvas to the frame should take place along the entire perimeter and in the middle, where the metal profile passes. Adjacent sheets divide the carrier profile shelf in half. The work is performed using a screwdriver, screwing in self-tapping screws at a distance of 20‒25 cm from each other. To ensure the entry of the self-tapping screw to the same depth, not exceeding 1 mm, you need to install a restrictor attachment on the tool. In pieces the right size drywall is cut with an assembly knife.

After fixing all the drywall sheets, cut out holes for the lamps. A perfectly round shape is obtained during operation special nozzle on the drill. The next step in ceiling cladding is surface priming. After the putty begins. They start finishing from the joints and screwing points of self-tapping screws, a mesh is applied to the layer of putty for a more durable fastening of the seams. Having allowed the applied layer to dry, they perform the putty of the entire ceiling. Finished surface clean up sandpaper... The suspended ceiling is ready for finishing.

Note! For a room with normal humidity use ordinary drywall, the use of moisture resistant will not give any advantages, on the contrary, it will make the structure heavier.

Installation suspended structure requires accuracy, strict measurements and adherence to technology. Acting according to the planned plan and responsibly regarding the reliability of the fastening and adherence to the required level, you will assemble an excellent suspended ceiling.

We also want to invite you to familiarize yourself with the articles that describe the manufacturing technology plasterboard ceilings.

Do you really want to make a plasterboard suspended ceiling yourself? People who are engaged in repairs do it quickly and automatically. If you are a beginner in such matters and you would like to independently make the installation of suspended ceilings from plasterboard, then the installation instructions will help. Our tips to help you learn how to do this using photo and video instructions. If anything is not clear, then ask in the comments, we will definitely answer.

Diy single-level suspended ceiling

Plasterboard ceilings have a number of irrefutable achievements. It hides all the imperfections of your ceiling (cracks, irregularities, etc.) It is very convenient to hide wires under such a ceiling. And also, the most important advantage is a flat surface.

Plasterboard ceilings are very varied and numerous in terms of design. You can make such a ceiling from gypsum board, for every taste. There is no limit in choice and fantasy, they have different color range, are single-level,. Plasterboard ceilings allow you to improve the lighting in your home or apartment and make it unique and elegant. It is very convenient to place light on false ceilings in a way that is convenient for you and so that you like to look at it. There is an opportunity to conduct to save yourself from unnecessary noise.

Such a ceiling is suitable for any room, so to speak "universal". You can make such a ceiling even in the bathroom, you first need to process the sheets special composition which repels water. Now let's look at how to install a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. For this, a kind of photo-instruction is presented below, we tried to make it as clear and simple as possible. It will be available to you on your own.

The procedure for manufacturing a plasterboard ceiling

Brief designations and concepts for the installation of a suspended ceiling from hl.

There are only two technologies for installing walls with sheets. This is a technology called Knauf and Giprok. You can watch and evaluate them yourself. Experienced craftsmen prefer the Giprok technology, since our suspensions and profiles, so to speak, are the basis of which all Basic structure false ceiling and on which they are actually attached later, sheets of drywall, to put it mildly, are not made according to European standards, as well as a lot ... In a word, check out how.

The structure of your plasterboard ceiling, first of all, must be strong. And all other parts (fasteners and hangers) must be very well fixed to the very base at such a distance as to prevent the drywall sheets from sagging. Because it is the sagging that leads to the appearance of cracks between the joints of the sheets and the appearance of bumps. For fixing drywall, you need to select high-quality and technological ones.

Materials and tools for installing a suspended plasterboard ceiling

Knauf direct suspension Self-tapping screws you need

First of all, these are special suspensions (photo on the left), which must be attached to the base. So that they are firmly and reliably attached, they use the so-called dowel-nails (photo on the left) or metal anchor-wedges. More preferable - a dowel-nail. Profiles with a width of 70 mm are attached to the suspensions with the help of the so-called "babies" shown in the figure below under the number 1 (screws with a gimbal for metal, they better "fit" into the profile). Then there are the sheets of drywall themselves 12.5 mm wide, they are screwed with the screws indicated in the photo on the right under the number 2. Measure each piece along the length yourself, depending on the size of the ceiling. It will take the same laser level... And do not forget about a tape measure, a pencil, a puncher and a screwdriver, you cannot do without it. In the video lesson below, everything is clearly shown. Our free will help to calculate the required number of sheets and profiles, components.

Fixing the suspension to the ceiling

An example of installing a single-level false ceiling with your own hands

First you need to outline a line for the initial profile, for this use a laser or water level to help. The distance from the ceiling should be 10–20 cm, so that you can hide the electrical wiring, communications, etc. Place the level on an elevated position. Mark the outline of this line with a pencil on the wall. Then attach the guides around the perimeter of the room along this horizontal line with dowels 350-500 mm apart.

Checking the evenness of the ceiling

The next step is to mark the ceiling for the main bearing guides. First you need to draw parallel lines more than 125 cm, and this is about half a sheet of drywall. Drywall sheets will be fastened with a small gap between them, and when we putty, so that we can fill plaster mix for sealing joints between sheets. The main profiles will run along the edges of the sheet and in the middle, keep in mind. And along these lines we will fix suspensions on metal anchor-wedges or dowels 400 mm in size.

Now you can take the profile guides and insert them into the starting frame, which we fixed around the perimeter of the walls of the room. The only thing that is not advisable to do is to insert them close to the wall, you need to leave a small gap so that there is no deformation of the ceiling from various unforeseen circumstances, like temperature expansions. Therefore, we insert the guides into our hangers. We fasten the guides to the suspensions with metal screws, 2 on each side of the profile. Be sure to check horizontality with a long level or laser.

Connection option without crab

Further, the installation of a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands involves marking and inserting longitudinal profiles (photo on the right). It is recommended to look at the specification for transverse installation of drywall sheets of guides of about 600 mm, and for longitudinal installation - 400 mm. You can choose the design option yourself and watch the video. Here we take a look at the transverse mount. You can easily cut longitudinal profiles from the guides with metal scissors to the length you need. Then insert the longitudinal profiles between the guides, also with a step of about 500 mm. They should be located so that their ends do not fall into the places where the guide profiles are fastened to the hangers.

Start profile connection Connection to the main profile with a crab

Longitudinal profiles are attached to the guides using special crabs, photo on the left. To make the structure more durable, use a different structure for attaching the longitudinal profiles. Two segments are attached to the bearing profile and a longitudinal one is inserted into them. It is this method that strengthens the structure very well. You can fix the longitudinal profile using suspensions, approximately in the middle of each.

We fix drywall sheets to the ceiling frame ourselves

Ready and insulated frame

So the main frame for the gypsum ceiling is ready. Now you need to sheathe it with sheets of drywall. Before that, process each sheet from the side of the ceiling, this will improve the waterproofing, after fixing you will process it with back side... Step back a few millimeters from the wall to allow the drywall to breathe. Attach the sheets across the longitudinal profiles. Attach the first sheet from the wall, and the next one starting from the first longitudinal profile. Fill the distance (between the wall and the longitudinal profile) with half of the sheet. Thus, we go through the entire ceiling. Fasten drywall sheets to all laid profiles with self-tapping screws for metal in increments of about 15-20 cm.

The caps of the self-tapping screws do not need to be deeply recessed, they should be almost flush, but so as not to stick out above the plane of the drywall. A screwdriver with a stiffness limiter will help you with this, set it so that the limiter is triggered on an easy recess of the self-tapping screw. Make a gap between the sheets of 2-3 mm, which is useful for further sealing the joints with a plaster mixture.

That's all. It remains only to cover up the joints that have formed between the sheets. You need to first go through it with a primer, when puttingty, you may need to tighten the protruding screws. To close up the joints well, use special mixtures or a plaster mix. A sticky fiberglass reinforcing mesh is applied to it. And level everything with a spatula so that it does not stick out. When everything is dry, smooth out all the putty areas with fine sandpaper from stains. The gaps that have formed between the wall and the drywall sheets are processed in the same way. The ceiling is completely plastered with a plaster mixture, try to do it without streaks, if you do it for painting, and if under the wallpaper, then this may not be visible.

So the do-it-yourself suspended plasterboard ceiling is ready. Then you can do whatever you want with it. Wallpaper glue, paint and so on. If you did everything correctly, then the ceiling will serve you for a very long time. Ceilings are multi-level and it is written about it. Now check out the video installation instructions to consolidate your knowledge before practice.

Video how to do the installation of a false ceiling yourself

A simple way to self-mount a sheet of gypsum board on the ceiling without helpers

A step-by-step guide with photos and videos on how to make a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands. Nuances and subtleties of installation technology

In the framework of previous articles, we dealt with ceilings and, now we will consider drywall suspension systems... Ceiling decoration is a responsible task, on the implementation of which the overall picture of the interior of the room largely depends.

Suspended plasterboard ceilings allow you to create interiors in a room in different styles

False ceilings help to level the level of the ceiling, in parallel with this, eliminating surface irregularities. In terms of design options, such suspended structures are very diverse: here and, and vinyl, and and aluminum, etc.

There is nothing difficult in making a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands. Any owner with basic building and construction skills can easily cope with this task. renovation works... The main thing is to choose wisely necessary materials and carry out the installation, adhering to a number of recommendations.

Selection of materials and tools

The key to reliability and durability of the structure is right choice material. To assemble a suspended ceiling with your own hands, you should purchase the main components of the structure in advance, which include:

To fix the profiles, you will need:

To fix the suspensions, you also need to prepare 8x10 dowels. Connect the profiles to each other and attach the frame to concrete base galvanized screws 4.2x51 will help. For fixing drywall sheets self-tapping screws with a length of 25 mm will be needed.

To install the structure, you will need tools:

The building level is needed to accurately mark the horizontal line for the installation of the guide profile. A two-meter level will be required when marking drywall sheets.

To execute Finishing work after installing with your own hands, you should prepare materials in advance, including:

• Serpyanka - reinforcing tape for seams;
• Sealing self-adhesive tape;
• Acrylic primer;
• Joint putty;
• Paint brush or roller;
• Medium spatula;
• Fine-grained sandpaper;
• Sound and thermal insulation (if necessary).

The self-adhesive, porous sealing tape helps to ensure that the substructure adheres tightly to the concrete surface.

Bonding seams with serpyanka

Preparatory work

The first thing to do before installing a false ceiling with your own hands is to solve the issue of lighting the room. At this stage, it is important to choose the type of luminaires to be installed, their power, location on the ceiling surface and the total number lighting fixtures.

The height of the frame will depend on these parameters, which ultimately will be reflected in the height of the walls of the room.

Having designed the lighting of the false ceiling, they carry out the wiring electrical wires, the ends of which in the places of installation of lighting devices are lowered down and secured with clamps.

Schematic: installation of the lighting system

To determine the level of the ceiling and create a perfect straight line for arranging the frame, first make marks on the walls. To simplify the task, the strokes are first applied with a pencil along the walls of the room at a convenient height of 1.7 m, each time being guided by the laser or water level. Then they are connected with a paint cord into a single line.

Then, using a tape measure, measure the distance from the drawn line to base surface, defining the lowest point of the ceiling.

Tip: To calculate the height of the future frame from the intended lowest point of the base surface, they retreat downward by the height of the profile and add 5-8 mm to this value per gap. When installing spotlights, the height of the frame should be related to the size of their base.

After setting the distance from the lowest point to the horizontal line, draw a parallel line under the ceiling. It will serve as a guide for fixing the guide profile.

Installation of the frame of the suspended structure

A guide profile is installed along the perimeter of the room, placing it so that the lower end coincides with the horizontal line drawn on the wall.

Suspended ceiling metal frame

Having measured the required length of the profile, cut it with metal scissors. Then, pressing tightly against the line on the wall, fix it on the dowels, drilling directly through the profile. For creating solid construction the interval between the holes must be at least 30-40 cm, and at the edges and in the corners - 15 cm.

In places where the middle of the plasterboard sheets are located, additional fastening should be provided. Glued to each profile sealing tape fixing the structure to the wall with dowels.

Installation of the ceiling profile is performed in several stages:

Sheathing of the GKL frame

The principle of fastening drywall sheets to metal frame pretty simple. They are raised to the level of the frame and fixed with self-tapping screws every 10-15 cm.
When installing drywall sheets, it is important to follow a number of recommendations:

Sheets must be fastened parallel longitudinal profiles, excluding the coincidence of the joints. In the places where segments and whole sheets join, to prevent possible cracks during subsequent puttying, it is necessary to make recesses with a knife.

Sheathing the frame with plasterboard

All sheet joints must be located strictly on the profiles. A gap of 1 mm is always left between adjacent sheets.

Screws begin to screw in from the corner of the sheet, moving towards the center. They are screwed in at right angles, "sinking" the caps into the sheet by 1 mm.

Tip: To cut a sheet along or across, you need to cut the cardboard shell with a knife from one of the sides at the intended point, applying a rule. Then bend it along the notch line, cutting through the cardboard from the opposite side.

To receive rectangular holes it is convenient to use a hacksaw, and for round lamps - an electric drill equipped with a special "crown". If you need to do round hole with a diameter of more than 80 mm, it is enough to drill several holes along the contour of the circle, and interior squeeze out the formed circle.

Other secrets of craftsmanship when working with drywall video:

Having sheathed the frame with sheets, the mounted ceiling is allowed to "settle" for one or two days. After that, they move on to surface finishing. First, cover it with a primer. Then all joints are carefully sealed with putty, and the seams are reinforced with reinforcing tape. In addition to the joints, the "recessed" screw heads are putty.
The putty ceiling is left for a day. After complete drying finishing material fine-grained sandpaper "sand" the joints. The brushed surface is covered with finishing putty... After drying, the joints are re-"sanded", carefully inspected by the light of the lamp, and if irregularities and scratches are detected, they are again covered with a finish. Final sanding is performed when the material is completely dry, i.e. after 7-8 hours. Ideas for finishing options can be taken from photos on the web.

Having mastered the technology of installing a single-level suspended ceiling, it will be possible to move on to more complex structures using interesting combined options instead of standard solutions.

Plasterboard suspended ceiling: photo

In the process of creating a functional modern interior the installation of a plasterboard ceiling plays a special role. A simple, but at the same time aesthetic and practical design, allows you to significantly reduce the time of work, mask surface defects, and hide communications. You can install the ceiling with your own hands, observing the installation technology.

Plasterboard base - what's included?

Before starting the installation of the plasterboard ceiling, you need to prepare the basic materials.

Considering that the structure consists of a frame, finished with plasterboard sheets, for its device you will need:

• metal profiles;
• fastening elements;
• drywall plates;
• finishing materials.

Metal profiles are the basis of the structure. These should be high-quality elements made of galvanized metal in two versions: guides and ceiling bearers. To connect the profiles, a straight U-shaped suspension is used, connectors of two types: straight and cruciform. In addition, to assemble a drywall ceiling with your own hands, you will need galvanized connecting screws and dowels.

The frame is finished using plasterboard ceiling sheets with optimal parameters: 2.5 meters long and 1.2 meters wide. The thickness of the sheets ranges from 8 to 9.5 mm.

Classic ceiling plasterboard painted in grey colour... By color and thickness, it can be distinguished from wall sheets, which are usually thicker. In rooms with increased moisture or a risk of fire, special sheets of drywall are used, marked "moisture resistant" or "fire resistant".

Calculation of materials for the ceiling - how to do it right

In order for the installation of drywall on the ceiling to go as smoothly as possible and without interruptions during operation, it is important to correctly calculate the amount of material to be consumed for creating a structure. To do this, first of all, the ceiling area is calculated in the standard way - multiplying the width by the length of the room (measured with a tape measure).

To calculate required amount guide profile, you need to find the perimeter of the room. To do this, add up the lengths of the walls. At this stage, it is important to measure each of the walls separately in order to eliminate possible errors in the calculation process. the right amount profile, since the lengths are not always the same.

To calculate how much material the installation of a bearing-type profile will require, it is enough to remember that the first and last elements are mounted at a distance of 30 cm from the wall, when the distance between the other profiles is no more than 60 cm.The number of the bearing profile is found by multiplying the number of rows by the length ceiling.

The supporting profile is fastened with U-shaped straight hangers with a step of one meter. Determining the required number of suspensions is simple if you divide the total length of the profile by one meter.

To increase the rigidity of the frame between the guides and the supporting profiles, special jumpers will be required with a step of 60 cm. The number of cross-shaped connectors for jumpers is found by dividing the length of the supporting profile by the fastening step. As for the second type of connectors - straight ones, their number is calculated taking into account the length of the room, since the elements are fastened along the length of the profiles.

The last stage - fastening drywall sheets also requires precise preliminary calculations... To finish the frame of the ceiling structure, you will need exactly the same number of plates, which is equal to the area of ​​the ceiling. Compensation consumption is also taken into account, adding from 3% to 5% of the material to the total amount.

Markup is a responsible start

Regardless of the complexity of the design, the initial stage is always marking. Only with the marking can it be considered that the technology of installing drywall on a pre-arranged frame is fully observed.

Begin by determining the lowest point on the horizontal surface of the ceiling. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level or, in the absence of one, a conventional water level. In a certain place they put a mark - this will be the height of the plasterboard ceiling. It is important that it is at least 3 centimeters below the lowest side of the base. This will be the bottom of the guide profile. In the case of a planned illuminated ceiling, the line is lowered a few centimeters lower.

Do the same with the rest of the walls. On each of them they put a corresponding mark, again, using the level for reliability. It is important to ensure that there are no air bubbles inside the level during measurements.

The final stage of marking is the connection of the marked points with the help of a chopping thread into a solid line and marking of the lines for attaching the suspensions on the ceiling surface with a step of 0.6 m.

The main stage of the process is the assembly of the frame

There is nothing difficult in assembling the frame with your own hands, if you follow the step-by-step instructions.

They start with the installation of the guide profile along the marked line around the perimeter of the room. U-shaped suspensions are fixed on the ceiling surface. Carrying profiles are cut (1 cm shorter), according to the marking, they are fixed in the guides, additionally strengthening the structure with self-tapping screws.

At the next stage, the suspensions are bent and attached to the profile, pulling the thread in order to avoid sagging of the bearing elements.

As soon as the longitudinal elements are finally fixed, the crossbars are cut and fixed with crabs.

The classic scheme for mounting a profile implies that the joints of the hl are in the middle of the profile, which will only work if there are a number of crossbars at a distance of 2.5 meters from the wall, which acts as a starting point for the installation of hl.

Plasterboard finishing - the final stage

Sheets of drywall are attached to the finished frame with self-tapping screws. It is more convenient to fasten sheets without preliminary cutting, thus reducing the number of joints and seams. In order to properly mount drywall, it is necessary to measure its quantity in advance, prepare sheets on a horizontal surface. The more accurately the installation is performed with the drowning of the heads of the self-tapping screws into the surface of the hl, the smoother the finished ceiling will turn out.

An important stage is filling joints and seams between sheets. A responsible approach at this stage will prevent the appearance of cracks in the ceiling during operation. For reliable fixation of the seams, a reinforcing tape is used, on top of which a layer of putty mixture with a leveling property is applied. As soon as the surface dries, it is additionally smoothed with sandpaper.

In places of contact with the wall, the installation of HL is performed using a sealing tape. Fasten it before the sheets are fixed. Remove the tape only after filling the gaps with a putty mixture. The finished ceiling is primed, treated with putty, sanded, re-primed and only then painted with paint.

How to install a curved ceiling

The classic installation of ceiling plasterboard on a frame under a curved ceiling is somewhat different from the previous installation option. In order to install a non-standard design, the following algorithm is followed:

1. The first tier of the frame is mounted the traditional way as required by the instructions above.
2. Carry out the marking of the guide profiles around the perimeter of the room.
3. Profiles PNx28 × 27 are installed along the marking line, fixing them with self-tapping screws and dowels.
4. The bearing profiles are fixed in the pre-installed profiles using suspensions and with a step of 600 mm.
5. In the zones of passage of the curved profile, the step is reduced to 400 mm.
6. Plasterboard sheets are attached to the finished frame so that they extend beyond 10 cm to the curved line of the ceiling bend.
7. Sheets are fastened with a pitch of not more than 250 mm.
8. After finishing the finishing of the first level, outline the wave line.
9. At a distance equal to the thickness of the sheets, a curved profile is attached from the mark (use metal scissors to cut the sides).
10. The profile is pulled through the hl to the main frame.
11. Any technology from the manufacturer further implies the manufacture of a second level frame. The more levels are planned, the smaller should be the step of fixing hl.
12. The finished frame is hemmed with gypsum board with a margin of a centimeter for further work with a bend.
13. Given the direction of the bend, the lower profile is attached, corresponding to the location of the upper line.
14. The upper and lower parts of the curved frame are tied with profile posts, finished with plasterboard in a vertical plane. For curved areas, a 6.5 mm sheet is suitable.

The final stage of the installation of drywall sheets is complemented by plastic corners designed to mask protruding outer corners of arcs. The joints are treated with a reinforcing tape, putty. Surface finished ceiling just as in the case of its classic version, it is primed, treated with putty, polished and painted.

Features of installing a curved ceiling: what is useful to know

Considering that we are talking about a not quite standard solution for a plasterboard ceiling, there are several important points to consider.

First, the higher level is attached to the frame, which subsequently serves as a supporting base for the curved frame profiles of the next level.

Secondly, the curved element is attached through the already hemmed plasterboard sheet to the underlying base frame. If there is no profile in the fixation zone of the metal arc behind the sheet, then it will be necessary to additionally place a gasket under it to screw in the fasteners, otherwise the sheet may not withstand the load. Trims of fiberboard, profile or plywood are suitable for the role of a gasket.

Thirdly, the profile can be bent in two ways: wet and dry. First option will do for small bending radii, the second will allow you to embody smooth transitions.

Fourth, great value has a type of drywall sheets. You need to understand that the installation of gvl, suitable for the installation of a ceiling in public places with increased load, is not suitable for the installation of a curved ceiling. To achieve the correct bends of the material, it is better to use sheets with minimum thickness, additionally piercing the surface with a needle roller.

One of the most common materials for finishing the ceiling is drywall, because it allows you to embody the most daring design ideas, smooths the surface well and is an environmentally friendly raw material. It consists of 93% gypsum, 7% cardboard and surfactants. Installation of a plasterboard ceiling includes installation of a flat surface, marking, installation of a guide profile, U-shaped hangers and finishing... We will reveal this process in more detail.

In order for the fastening of drywall to the ceiling to be reliable, you should strictly follow the instructions and stock up on all the necessary tools.

First of all, these are:

1. screwdriver, screws and dowels to it. Without it, installing a plasterboard ceiling will not work;
2. drill;
3. hammer;
4. scissors for metal;
5. building level and tape measure. A polyethylene tube with a diameter of 0.8 cm and a length of 5 m can act as a level, on which divisions are applied, and a flask with liquid is inserted inside. However, before attaching drywall to the ceiling, it is better to test both the laser and water levels in order to understand which one is easier to work with;
6. pencil;
7. sandpaper for drywall on the ceiling;
8. roller and brushes;
9. putty knife;
10. a knife for the ceiling made of gypsum board, which allows you to cut the sheet.

To install a plasterboard ceiling at a time, buy a little more material than required, with a margin of 5-10%.

Typically, the technology for mounting drywall to the ceiling depends on the room in which you are going to install it. In offices and apartments, standard sheets are used, while in the bathroom a material that is resistant to high humidity... Where increased fire safety is needed, sheets with red markings are purchased.

Self-assembly of gkl differs in that this work can be performed not only by professionals, but also by those who have only basic knowledge of repair. If you are interested in how to install drywall to the ceiling, then know that you need to purchase material from only one manufacturer so that there are no height differences at the joints. And the electrical wiring needs to be replaced or mounted only before working with the guide profiles, that is, before fixing the drywall to the ceiling.

Main works

Plasterboard installation on the ceiling begins with the most important and decisive stage for the final result - ceiling marking. You can use both a laser level, which is easier to use, but more expensive, and a water level.

First, we measure the lowest corner in the room, mark the center, measure 5-10 cm from the bottom corner to light sources, if you will mount them. Next, we measure and mark each corner like this. Use a paint cord to mark the bottom edge of the frame. This line is necessary during the installation of the guide profiles, which we fasten to the wall on the dowels after applying the sealing tape. The scheme is as follows: 1 profile - 3 dowels.

Before attaching the drywall to the ceiling, we begin to fix the main ceiling profiles, having previously drawn the surface with lines at a distance of 40 cm from each other. Be sure to install suspensions at a distance of 25 centimeters from the wall, this is one of the basic rules for installing drywall on the ceiling. If work is carried out on a wooden ceiling, then in order to attach the profiles, wood screws are used; for concrete, anchor dowels are needed.

Before fastening, we cut the sheets in width and length, for which it is necessary to cut the cardboard from the front and back sides. During this we use the long level. The chamfer should be removed with a plane to avoid unevenness and the ingress of putty into the joints.

What to do with duplex ceilings?

If you are installing two-level plasterboard ceilings, then the work is somewhat complicated due to the unusual appearance of the surface. First, we think over the design, construction sketch. Next, we look at what scheme for attaching drywall, on the ceiling, with a pencil, mark the joints of the profiles, fasteners, holes for lighting. We mark the future structure and beat off each level. At the next stages, installing drywall on the ceiling with your own hands is the same as for a single-level structure.

After finishing work with suspensions, it is necessary to mount a starting profile for drywall. Next, we nail metal strips across the ceiling with a step of about 40 cm, they will be used as a bearing profile. On top of the strips we put the longitudinal metal profiles necessary for correct installation plasterboard ceilings.

We apply a sheet to the prepared crate. For work, self-tapping screws for metal with a length of 25 mm and a screwdriver are used. Before you mount the drywall to the ceiling, keep in mind that the “drowning” of the self-tapping screw must be the same over the entire surface. Their step should be about 12-15 cm.

So, your design should consist of equal cells, in which sheets of drywall will be placed.

And now - finishing

The work does not end there, the technology of installing a plasterboard ceiling assumes its graceful, neat appearance... We carry out the putty in several layers, first of all closing the caps of the screws, after which we leave the structure to dry for 24 hours. After a day, we wipe the ceiling with fine-grained emery paper, apply a finishing putty and process it again.

Which filler to choose? If further painting is planned, then pay priority attention to high quality, if you are going to install drywall on the ceiling alone and stick wallpaper of any kind, then you shouldn't worry too much about it.

In a room with two windows, the last color should be done closer to the one on the sunny side.

Often, boxes of gypsum plasterboard are erected, which perform either a decorative or a practical function - they zone the space and to some extent replace multi-level ceilings.

Painting of plasterboard ceilings is performed after the installation of the profile, that is, after the sealing tape is glued to the surface dried after the putty. And after filling all the cracks with a putty, the surface is primed and covered with water dispersion paint.

Drywall on a wooden ceiling - is it worth it?

If you decide to mount drywall to a wooden ceiling, then check out some of the nuances and mounting scheme:

• drywall fixing is performed first on the walls and only then on the ceiling;
• be sure to leave a gap between the two frames to be fixed to provide space for shrinkage wooden structure without damaging the exterior finish;
• do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling installation on wooden surface done only with self-tapping screws;
• installation of drywall on wooden ceiling suggests such important details, like a crate made of a bar of 30x40 cm, which is placed across load-bearing beams(the distance between them is 300x400 mm) and insulation;
• mounted wooden frame from the slats should also be leveled with a primer.

Summing up

So, we hope that you understand the process of how to properly fix drywall to the ceiling with your own hands. Available frameless way when the sheets are attached to the ceiling with a mastic consisting of bone glue and gypsum - binders that bond the drywall to the base. To do this, apply the solution in small portions along the center and edge of the drywall, level it and press it against the ceiling.

Stick to the wiring diagram, read detailed description on how to properly and securely attach drywall to the ceiling. This is a fun process that will make your room shine with new colors.